Surface cladding with tiles on plaster technology. The technology of facing vertical walls with ceramic tiles. Cutting and drilling tiles

Ceramic tile (tile) - one of the most ancient building materials, the first evidence of the use of fired more than 6 thousand years. For thousands of years, the material has been used to decorate palaces and temples, its reliability and practicality have been tested by time.

In the 20th century, ceramic tiles became available to the mass consumer, modern building technologies determined the main area of application of tiles in residential premises - this is the bathroom. The trading network offers a wide selection of ceramic tiles, you can order goods in online stores.

Material advantages

The right tile has practically no flaws, the price range allows you to buy a quality product at affordable price, showrooms offer exclusive batches of author's design. The popularity of the material is ensured by:

Using natural material- clay, tile does not contain any "chemistry", has no sharp edges, retains heat well, pleasant to the touch.
Reliable and durable, absolutely resistant to hot water and a couple. For care, you can use abrasive and chemical active detergents including those based on chlorine.
Resistant to mechanical stress, the surface does not scratch or crack, the service life exceeds 15 years.
It does not have microcracks, there are no conditions for the appearance of mold and the development of microorganisms.
Provides installation of water folding fittings, fastening of hinged accessories.
Manufacturers offer a wide selection of ceramic tiles, a wide variety of colors and storylines are presented, the tile retains a rich, bright color.

Its weight depends on the size of the tile, for walls the most popular sizes are: rectangular 15x25, 20x25, 33x45 cm or square - 13x13, 20x20, 30x30 cm, designers advise placing at least six tiles on one wall in a row. It is recommended to buy the entire set of material at once and with a margin, even from the same manufacturer, different batches may differ by 1-2 mm.
Ceramic tiles are divided into eight categories according to the degree of moisture resistance; for the bathroom, tiles are purchased marked with the letter “A”, in which case the surface absorbs less than 3% of moisture.
According to wear resistance, the tile is divided into five types, marked with the PEI symbol and Roman numerals from I to V, for the bathroom choose grade II or III.

Tools

A good tiler can be seen not only by quality work, but also by a thorough approach. He always keeps his tools in good condition and makes sure that everything you need is always at hand before work. Proper wall cladding technology ceramic tiles involves the use of the following tools:

In addition to the listed tools, glazed ceramic tiles for interior wall cladding require the use of high-quality tile adhesive (mastic). Glue is purchased separately in the form of a ready-made mixture (usually based on Portland cement), which must be diluted with water before work (all manufacturers must indicate the proportions on the package). For reasons of economy or for other reasons, you can prepare a tile mortar yourself.

Self-preparation of the solution

When preparing a mortar at home, the most suitable base is ordinary M400 cement, and building sand sifted through a fine sieve is used as a filler. The proportions of the components are usually chosen as follows:

2 parts of cement M400;
5 parts fine sand;
1 part water.

For preparation, you will need a measuring container that will allow you to measure the exact quantities of the components, calculated depending on how much the finished solution is required.

Before adding water, the cement must be very thoroughly mixed with sand until a homogeneous mass of the same color is obtained. If you pour in water until the lumps of cement are broken by sand, it will be almost impossible to get rid of them.

How to check the quality of the finished mixture

An experienced tiler can determine its quality by the type of solution, but if there is no certainty, then you can use a fairly simple procedure to check:

a little water is sprayed on the back of the tile from the spray gun until evenly wetting;
apply and distribute cement-sand mortar;
the tile is turned with the solution down and shaken with enough force so that part of the solution flies off;
look at the remaining solution - it should remain on the entire surface in a small layer (there should be no empty areas).

If the mixture does not hold or does not hold well enough, a new one must be prepared.

A self-prepared mortar is not suitable for wet rooms, therefore it is better to prefer factory glue for tiling bathroom walls with ceramic tiles. It withstands high humidity well, because it contains a variety of additives and additives that give it moisture resistance, fungicidal and other important properties.

Surface preparation

Standard GOST ceramic tiles for wall cladding need good adhesion to the wall surface, therefore, before cladding, the base must be prepared in accordance with certain requirements. The surface of the wall must be flat, deviation from the plane of not more than 6 mm per 2 linear meters is allowed.

You can evaluate the evenness of the surface using a two-meter aluminum rail. It is enough to attach it to a section of the wall, and measure the height difference with a regular ruler or other tool. All sections of the wall where the difference in height is more than 6 mm must be marked and leveled with a layer of plaster.

Advice! In the process of leveling, it is not necessary to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. On the contrary, small roughness and minor defects will only improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the surface.

If you have to tile a wall with ceramic tiles for interior cladding, on which there are still traces of the old finish, the preparation process includes the following steps:

Remove all remnants of old coatings (wallpaper, paint, whitewash).
Carefully tap the area with a mallet, carefully listening to the sound and paying attention to the return of the hammer. In areas with voids and delaminations, the sound will be noticeably different. These areas should be noted, and in the future they will need to be completely hollowed out and the resulting depressions sealed with plaster or cement mortar.
Degrease the surface. This important step is often neglected, but in this case, on the spot greasy spot detachment may occur quite soon. You can remove fat with a 3% solution of hydrochloric acid, which is applied to the stain with a sponge, and washed off after 3-4 minutes. big amount water.
Measuring the evenness of the surface, as described above, knock down all the protruding sections with a chisel.
When the surface is completely cleaned and degreased, it is additionally leveled with cement-based plaster (or prepared from a purchased mixture). Ideally, you can completely remove the old plaster to the slab and plaster everything from scratch. The result will be much better and more reliable, but this is a time-consuming and costly procedure.
Notches are applied to the finished surface with a metal object, improving its adhesion to the solution.
The last stage of preparation is priming - applying a special composition that adheres well to Portland cement-based solutions.

On a note! If old paint very strong and it can not be scraped off in any way, you can just scratch its surface strongly and deeply. This will significantly improve the quality of gluing the tile adhesive.

The correct technology for wall cladding with ceramic tiles includes preliminary marking of the prepared wall, taking into account the size of the tile and the selected joint width. For the base level, the calculated floor height is selected. Next, the required height is measured, two dowels are screwed into the wall, and a cord is pulled between them. Having re-measured compliance with dimensions and strict horizontality, draw a line and transfer the cord to the level of the next seam.

When the markup is ready, start laying the tiles. In general, this process consists of the following steps:

First you need to lay out the tiles on the floor in the same order in which they will be laid on the wall. In most cases, ceramic tiles for interior wall cladding have certain patterns, and if the aesthetics of the cladding is important, it is desirable to combine them as harmoniously as possible.
Having prepared tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar, a small part of it must be transferred to a separate vessel and diluted with water to a liquid state. Wetting with this liquid reverse side tiles, you can significantly improve the adhesion of the mortar. The section of the wall on which the tiles are to be laid must be moistened with plain water.
Laying is recommended to start from the corner opposite the entrance, skipping the bottom row. To do this, a metal profile is fixed along the bottom marking line, on which the row will rest.
The adhesive or mortar is applied with a notched trowel to the back of the tile or to the wall.
The tile is glued to the wall based on the previously installed profile. To make sure that the mixture is well distributed and filled the pores, the tile should be lightly tapped with a mallet or spatula handle. Each installed tile is immediately checked with a level.
The second tile is installed in the same way. The width of the seam is regulated by special wedges. For reliability, you can fix the relative position of the tiles with pieces of masking tape.
Having laid out the first row, it is necessary to check its level, after which you can proceed to the next row.

Advice! It is recommended to lay out the missed bottom row of tiles last. This is done in case, after laying the floor, the whole tile will not fit. Then it can be simply cut with a tile cutter, which cannot be done with already laid tiles.

In order to drill holes for various fasteners and decorative elements in the surface of a smooth ceramic tile for wall cladding, it is best to use a “ballerina” - a special drill-cutter with a flexibly adjustable hole diameter.
If it is not possible to apply the same amount of mastic on each tile, you can cut a special template from plastic of a suitable thickness. IN plastic plate a rectangle is cut along the contour, the dimensions of which are 5-10 mm smaller than the dimensions of the tile. Now, applying the tile to the plate, you can fill the resulting frame with the mixture, and then carefully level it, removing the residue with a spatula. This ensures the highest dosing accuracy even in the absence of experience.
When facing the walls of the bathroom with ceramic tiles, you should use the factory tile adhesive, in the features of which it is indicated that it is moisture resistant, it is also desirable that it contains a fungicide. When facing, the surface of the tile and the wall should be wetted especially carefully to ensure maximum adhesion.

Approximately 24 hours after laying the tiles, grouting can begin. For this procedure, putty is chosen, the color of which is well suited to the tile itself and to the general interior of the room. The prepared mixture is applied with a rubber spatula, confidently pressing it into the seam so that it completely fills the gaps.

On a note! To give the seam a certain shape, you can use a piece of electrical cable, the diameter of which is selected in such a way that it provides a constant seam profile without damaging it.

Excess grout mixture from the smooth surface of the tile must be removed immediately. After waiting for the mixture to dry a little, with a damp cloth carefully align each seam. This simple procedure will make the tiled surface more accurate and aesthetic.

Video

The most popular wall cladding material is ceramic tile. It has a waterproof surface, resistant to many mechanical damage. Ceramics competes well with other popular materials such as plastic panels, plywood, decorative plaster, etc. We will talk about how the walls are clad with ceramic tiles below.

The tile has a number of advantages, namely:

Water resistance.
Durability.
Strength.
Ease of washing.
Practicality.
Wide range of colors and textures.
Wear resistance.
Hygiene.
Ensuring the protection of walls from destruction.

Typically, when facing work, it is assumed that the tile will not change for several years. Therefore, the choice of this material should be approached very responsibly. Today, there is a fairly large assortment of tiles on sale. It differs in the type of surface, color, pattern, etc. Most people choose it based only on their color preferences. Although, it is necessary to take into account specifications and scope.

So, there is a tile that has a heat-resistant outer surface. Such material will be required for facing the apron near the stove. In rooms with high humidity, moisture-resistant tiles are most suitable.

Material calculation

After determining the required amount of work, you should calculate the required amount of materials. To do this, you need a tape measure, pencil and paper. A tape measure should measure the area under the masonry. In this case, it is necessary to take into account what corners are in the room. So, for right angles, you will need to provide for a supply of tiles. To understand right angles or not, it is enough to measure their diagonals with a tape measure. For measurement accuracy, it is recommended to apply the tape measure strictly horizontally or vertically.

It should be understood that if you need to remove the old tile before you start laying a new one, then the size working area eventually it will be more. If the walls need to be plastered, then the dimensions of the surface, on the contrary, will become smaller.
In order to visually see all the bulges and potholes, you should draw a projection of the area of the room. This diagram will help you calculate the amount more accurately. required material.
In addition, if necessary, you need to determine the presence and position of curbs, friezes and decorative elements. They are also best noted on paper. In general, the number of required tiles must be calculated in such a way that there are no narrow pieces of ceramics in the corners of the room.
Before cladding the exterior walls with ceramic tiles, it is recommended to properly level the work surface. This will make it easier to calculate the amount of material needed. When working, you need to adjust the size of each tile individually.
In addition, when preparing the walls, it is necessary to remove all sockets, switches and existing wires. All irregularities should be puttied and the surface cleaned of foreign elements.
As a rule, for each wall, the number of tiles is calculated separately. The use of pieces and parts of the material is also reflected in the calculations.

Cladding technologies

To date, there are several types and technologies for wall cladding with ceramic tiles. Namely:

"Seam to seam".
"Zigzag seam (herringbone)."
"On the run."
"Diagonally".

The type of laying method affects how many tiles are needed for the work.

Let's take a closer look at each of these styling options.

Diagonal Method

This is perhaps the most difficult method to implement, but thanks to it you can create the effect of space distortion when using tiles of different textures and shades.

First you need to correctly draw the diagonal along which the laying will be carried out, and prepare a tool for cutting tiles. In this case, the required amount of material is calculated in two stages. At the first, you need to provide for how many whole tiles will be required with the marked diagonals. On the second - to determine how much cut material will be needed. This value is calculated using the following formula:

(DPV) / (1.44 * DP + 2 * RSH), where:

DPV is the length of the surface perimeter.
DP is the length of the tile.
RSH - the size of the seam.

The result should be rounded up.

"Seam to Seam"

Due to its simplicity, this installation option is most often used. In this case, the tiles are placed in a row. Therefore, you need to ensure that there are no irregularities on the surface. Otherwise, they will be visible.

This method is good in that it allows you to minimize the number of cut tiles. This, in turn, helps to save on work. You should end up with long horizontal and vertical seams.

Divide the height of the wall by the height of one tile.
Divide the width of the surface by the width of the tile.
Find the product of these two results.

In this case, you must always round up. It should be said that this option does not require any additional costs for materials.

"Running Seam"

With this method of laying, each next row is lined with an offset of half a tile. It can be done both vertically and horizontally.

If you carry out high-quality cutting of tiles, then you can achieve cost-effectiveness when laying it. When using material different color and textures, you can create a surface of any configuration.

"Herringbone stitch"

This installation option can only be used with rectangular tiles. At the same time, the material consumption increases by 5-10% than when using a run-up seam. This method is often used to install paving slabs. When calculating the amount of material, it is recommended to take 5% more, in case of chips during transportation or during installation. Most often, in this way, wall cladding with Snip ceramic tiles is performed.

Preparatory work

Before you do your own lining internal walls ceramic tiles, you should study the procedure for performing the main work and what difficulties may arise in this case. Fortunately, modern tools make this process easier.

The first thing to do is determine the amount of work required. Perhaps, in addition to the cladding itself, it will be necessary to carry out auxiliary measures, which will ultimately increase the repair period. For example, often before facing it is required to dismantle the old tiles and level the walls. This is preparatory work before facing the walls with ceramic tiles. Their prices are quite reasonable.

Facing the outer surfaces is practically no different from internal works. Ceramics are used to decorate exterior walls, usually to give the house an attractive look. Porcelain stoneware is popular for this purpose and is considered a cheaper alternative. natural stone. Facing works of external walls should be carried out only at an air temperature above 5 degrees. Otherwise, micro-deformations are possible.

Tools

To work, you will need the following tools:

Tile cutter of small power.
Notched trowel.
Level.
Large straight spatula.
Mounting cross-separators.
Glue, mortar or liquid nails.

Wall cladding methods

Wall cladding with ceramic tiles: photo

There are three types of wall cladding:

With cement mortar.
Liquid nails.
Adhesive compositions.

Method 1

Let us consider in more detail the option of facing with a cement mortar:

In this case, laying should begin with markings. To do this, slats are nailed horizontally and vertically. They are set strictly according to the level.
Since the solution dries quickly, it is recommended to dilute it in small portions, which will be enough for 1-2 rows of material.
Then you need to lay the lighthouse tiles, which will serve as the level of the cladding. Each of them is installed taking into account the thickness of the solution in increments of 600 millimeters from each other. First you need to lay the top tiles, and then the bottom ones. It is important that they are at the same level both vertically and horizontally.
After that, a guide cord is attached horizontally.
You can start the cladding process both from above and from below. Apply a small amount of grout to each tile with a flat spatula. After that, it is recommended to remove the excess with a gear tool. Then the tile with a little effort evenly in the center is pressed against the wall. Between them it is recommended to install plastic crosses. This is necessary so that the seams are the same.
Ready cement is applied to the back of the tile. To prevent the solution from creeping out, it is recommended to give it the shape of a truncated pyramid. When doing this, make sure that the edge of the tile touches the guide cord.
With a little effort, you need to press on the tile. Next, you should tap with a hammer, but not on the ceramic itself, but on the rail, which is superimposed on top.
Then it is necessary to check with the help of a beacon rail that there is no waviness. The verticality of the seam can be determined using a plumb line.
Finally, special overlays are placed between the tiles in the grooves.
For complete drying of the solution, it takes from 20 to 32 hours. When it dries, the linings are removed, and the grooves are processed with a mixture for grouting tile joints.

Method 2

Now consider the option of lining with adhesive solutions:

Before laying, you need to choose the right glue. The service life of the lined surface largely depends on this. Glue should be selected marked on the package "for interior decoration". This is necessary because ceramics are usually laid indoors. Today, ready-made mixtures based on polyurethane and dry, packaged in bags are on sale. Ready glue in liquid form is applicable only for flat surfaces. For all other cases, dry mixes are suitable. Such products can be used even without first applying a layer of plaster.
When facing walls, it is especially important to correctly lay the tiles at the corners. For this purpose, special plastic corners. Thanks to them, you can give the walls a finished look. In addition, they serve to protect the end face of the material from destruction. The required number of corners and their type is selected according to measurements made using a tape measure.
Initially, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt and small particles. Then it is leveled and primed with a PVA-dispersion solution (8%). In this case, markings are made on the wall before facing. This will require a building level and fixing rails.
An adhesive solution (it can be mastic or special glue) is applied to the back of the tile. Then it is applied to the wall. This should be done very carefully.
The tile must be pressed against the wall so that the mastic evenly fills the entire space and displaces the air. Excess adhesive, which is squeezed out, should be removed.
When the first horizontal layer of ceramics is ready, you should put it on the support rail using a plumb line and a cord. After that, the level of laying the material vertically and horizontally is adjusted.

Method 3

Liquid nails are new way fastening material.

Work order:

Before proceeding with the lining according to this method, some preparatory work should be carried out. So, initially you need to clean the place where the tiles will be glued well. The surface must be free of dust, grease, foreign matter, paint and other contaminants that could impair the properties of liquid nails.
It is advisable to treat the working surface with a special primer, which will improve adhesion.
In addition, before starting the cladding, it is recommended to study the instructions for using liquid nails well. In this case, special attention should be paid to safety regulations.
The mixture with a step of 2-3 centimeters is applied in small strips to the prepared surface.
Then you need to attach a tile to this area.
Liquid nails set fairly quickly. Usually, in order to level the tiles, the worker has about ten minutes. If necessary, plastic crosses are inserted in the joints.
A whole tile is laid out in the first row. On the latter, you can already use pieces of material.

Otherwise, this cladding method is practically no different from methods using special solutions.

Wall cladding with ceramic tiles: video

Laying ceramic wall and floor tiles is not a very difficult job that requires special qualifications and skills. But there are several principles, applying and being guided by which, even novice tilers can do an excellent job. It should not be forgotten that wall tiling is The final stage works, a kind of make-up. main part work remains invisible, namely the quality of the hidden work (preparation of the base) and the quality of the finish depends.

When choosing a tile, in addition to colors, you need to pay attention to the physical and chemical properties of the tiles. First of all, you need to check whether they have the same colors, patterns and sizes, paying attention to the geometry of the tiles, whether their edges have a right angle and whether the surface of the tiles is even.

Sequence of work

1. Surface preparation.

The base for the tiles must be solid and accordingly even, free from dirt, dust, lime, grease and paint residues. All loosely adhering plaster elements must be removed. Applying a rule 2 m long, we check all deviations of the wall from the vertical and “to the light”. If deviations from the vertical and gaps between the rail and the wall are more than 5 mm, the wall must be leveled.

Wall alignment is done in several ways. Full alignment of the wall is done by replacing the plaster layer with the alignment of the new plaster on the lighthouses. Alternatively, the walls can not be plastered, but lined with waterproof drywall (GKLV) or DSP sheets (cement particle boards). The lining of the walls of the DSP is carried out similarly to the lining with drywall, with the only difference being that it is desirable to additionally attach relatively heavy sheets of cement-bonded particle boards to the wall by doweling with “fungi” and / or self-tapping screws.

Partial alignment of the "failures" of the walls, identified during the clearance test, can be done with tile adhesive, which will be used to glue the tiles.

Highly absorbent or dusty substrates, such as old lime plasters, must be primed. Priming strengthens and stabilizes the base, and also increases the adhesion of the mortar to the base. The primer emulsion is used undiluted. Evenly apply the primer to the wall with a brush or paint roller. On highly absorbent substrates, such as aerated concrete, priming is carried out twice. The first time, using an emulsion diluted in half with water, the second - undiluted primer. We perform wall priming not only before gluing the tiles, but also before partially leveling the "failures" of the walls with tile adhesive. It must be remembered that the tile adhesive shrinks slightly during setting, so you should not try to level the wall “to zero”, the main thing is to reduce the gaps. Watch the thickness of the applied layer of glue, you do not need to make it thicker than the manufacturer recommends, it is better to apply another layer of glue to the “failure” site, waiting for the bottom layer to dry.

If the wall is tiled with securely held even tiles, the new tile can be laid on top of the well-washed (degreased) old one. Almost every tile adhesive manufacturer has an adhesive in their product line that is suitable for working on old tiles. Typically, these adhesives have a dual purpose: for lining pools and for working on old tiles. non-absorbent substrates old tiles, concrete wall etc.) are treated with primers “for non-absorbent surfaces”. The most famous primer is Betokontakt. However, before deciding to clad on an old tile, it will not be superfluous to tap it with a spatula handle or a rubber mallet for “bumping” and peeling. If the tile makes a popping sound, then most likely it has peeled off the base, it must be removed and the “hole” sealed with tile adhesive. Also, it will not be superfluous to glue one test tile on top of the old one and leave it for half an hour, and then remove it. If the tile is removed only after prying it with a spatula, then it can be glued. And remember that cladding over old tiles “steals” the area of already small rooms. For example, in a bathroom, cladding over old tiles may not allow for a tub to be installed the same size as it was before the tiling.

Cladding can be done on walls painted oil paints, but only if the paint and plaster under it do not peel off. Otherwise, the paint must be removed with a blow dryer, washes or mechanically. Before facing walls covered with oil paints, they must be washed with soapy water (degreased) and primed with a primer for non-absorbent surfaces (Betokontakt).

When facing walls on plasterboard sheathing in places subject to direct moisture, Knauf-Flechendicht waterproofing must be applied to the bases of plasterboard sheets.

2. Marking rows of cladding.

First you need to say that modern tile adhesives allow you to stick tiles in any way: if you want, glue it from top to bottom, if you want, from bottom to top. The usual gluing of tiles from the bottom up is more of a tribute to tradition than a practical necessity, but this method is still recommended for beginner tilers, as it is simpler and “forgiving” small mistakes in pasting technology.

Before you start laying tiles, you need to accurately plan the location of the tiles on a given wall. If the size of the wall is not a multiple of the size of the tile, taking into account the width of the joint, then the tiles will need to be cut. Visually, a wall with a symmetrical arrangement of tiles looks better (we cut the tiles in both corners). We start laying with the second row of tiles from the center of the wall in any direction. The first, so-called basement row, of wall tiles is best glued after laying the floor tiles. This is done in order to hide the uneven edges of the floor tiles, which are less easily cut due to their hardness.

Rice. 123. Marking the wall for tiling

When determining the height of the second row, it is necessary to take into account the height of the basement tile and the size of the two seams (Fig. 123). We start work by marking a horizontal line on the wall and attaching a wooden or aluminum rail in this place. The lath should be smooth and straight, as it determines the level from which we begin laying the tiles. Most often, for this purpose, a profile is used for the manufacture of a frame for plasterboard sheathing, for example, a PNP 28 × 27 guiding ceiling profile.

After taking out the horizontal line and fixing an even bar or profile, we find the center of the wall and take out the vertical line. By applying tiles to the wall or with a tape measure, we calculate the number of tiles in a row to the corners of the walls. Applying the first tile with its edge to the axis of the wall or the center, we ensure that the tiles in the corners of the walls will be cut off by no more than 1/4 of the width of the tile. Do not forget about the thickness of the inter-tile seam. Laying without a seam requires very quality tiles and high professionalism. The seams "forgive" the slight skewness of the tile and technological errors.

It is not recommended to place tiles less than 1/4 of the width in the corners - they are difficult to cut. It is better to start laying tiles from the center of the wall so that cut tiles are obtained in the inner corners of the walls. If an integer number of tiles fit on the wall, then this is very good, but this is a single case, therefore the rule of symmetry is observed and the cut tiles “go” into the corners. However, this rule is not a dogma, if equipment is located in the room to be lined and you know in advance where it will be located, then it is better to put a whole tile into the visible corner, and lay the trimmings in an invisible one. External corners are recommended to start with whole tiles. Niches and narrow walls are usually made with symmetrical cladding, placing a cut or, conversely, a whole tile in the center.

Sometimes not the entire height of the wall is tiled, but only part of it, this part is called a panel. In this case, it is more advisable to stick the tiles from top to bottom. With this method of gluing, the top row will consist of whole tiles, and the basement row will consist of cut tiles. The marking for such laying is done in the same way as described above, with the only difference that the horizontal bar (or the outlined line) is installed at a strictly defined height of the cladding panel.

The adhesive solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package. The adhesive solution is evenly applied to the wall with the smooth side of the spatula, and then evenly distributed over the surface of the wall with the notched side (Fig. 124). We apply the adhesive solution on the surface of no more than 1 m2, since the solution retains its adhesive properties for 10–30 minutes. This time depends on the type of substrate and temperature, as well as air humidity. Mortar that has already dried on the wall and has lost its adhesive properties should be removed and a new layer applied. The size of the trowel teeth should be selected depending on the size and depth of the profile of the back side, as well as the size of the tile. The principle should be followed - the larger the tile, the larger the size of the spatula teeth.

Rice. 124. Spatula for tiles

For thin tiles, use spatulas with V-shaped teeth 3-5 mm high, for example; for glazed wall tiles, larger tiles (150-200mm) use 6mm square notched trowels and U-notched trowels for larger tiles (300mm and above) and irregular shape, suppose for a handmade tile. The high ridges produced by a large-toothed trowel work well on the back of large and ledge tiles, but if small tiles are laid on them, the excess grout will squeeze out into the joints between the tiles. Conversely, using a small-toothed trowel will produce ridges that are suitable for small tiles, but will not be high enough to completely cover the back of large tiles or tiles with ledges.

To determine the correct choice of a notched trowel, a small test is performed. The glue is applied to the wall and "combed" with a spatula. After processing the adhesive with a spatula, strips of adhesive of a certain height are obtained on the wall. Tiles are glued to them. When pressed into the adhesive, the tile flattens the ridges of the strips, so a layer of adhesive of uniform thickness is obtained under the tile. We immediately remove the tile from the wall, turn it over and watch how the glue covers the back of the tile. If the adhesive covers the entire tile, then the height of the trowel teeth is selected correctly. If there are places on the tile that are not covered with glue, you need to replace the spatula with another one with higher teeth.

Handmade tiles with very uneven backs, mosaic tiles mounted on sheets, and some cut ceramic and stone tiles require additional adhesive to be applied to the back of the tile with a rectangular trowel to achieve full contact between the tile and the substrate. Applying the adhesive to the back of the tiles is an additional measure and does not replace its distribution on the substrate. Insufficient or uneven application of the adhesive leads to a weakening of the bond and causes cracking of tiles and grouts.

Rice. 125. Recommended sequence of wall tiling

We start laying tiles from the bottom (Fig. 125). Usually, first a vertical row is laid to a height of 3–5 tiles, then a horizontal row (in any direction from the beginning of the cladding) to a width of 4–6 tiles. Verticality is checked by a level. Then the tile is laid with a ladder. However, such a sequence of facing, although generally accepted, is not fundamental, you can glue the tiles in a different sequence, it is only important to observe the verticality and horizontality of the seams. To make the seams the same, we use distance crosses, selecting them according to the width of the seam.

Rice. 126. Wall tiling

After laying the tiles on the wall, we press them with our hands, and if the tiles are large, we knock them out with a special rubber hammer (Fig. 126). In the process of work, we constantly check the correctness of the lining by the level and the rule. If necessary, freshly laid tiles can be besieged with blows of a rubber mallet or shifted, then, when the adhesive solution sets, it will be more difficult to do so. Recall that the “life” of the adhesive solution is approximately 30 minutes. Excess mortar in the seams is removed until it has hardened. During breaks in work, we remove excess mortar from the walls.

Trimming tiles should be done with special tools, remembering that they are of the appropriate size. Glue the cut tiles separately, last. Remember to respect the appropriate joint width. We finish facing with seams in all corners. Never install tiles against walls or ceilings (floors). In the future, the building may give a draft and the tile, placed in the spacer, will peel off. Let there be a seam at the junction of the tiles to the walls, ceiling and floor, it will partially relieve the tension of the building's settlement.

In the process, hard-to-reach places will appear, for example, behind a heating radiator. It is sometimes impossible to apply a solution there and level it with a notched trowel. Therefore, the pasting technology is being changed: it is not the wall that is smeared with glue, but the tile and it is leveled with a notched trowel. IN hard-to-reach place reaching out with a tile is easier than a spatula.

When facing a wall around pipes, it is required to drill tiles. This is done with a drill bit of the appropriate diameter. However, having the right tool is not always necessary. Holes of any diameter can be drilled in tiles with a single drill (Fig. 127). A circle of the desired diameter is drawn on the tile and drilled with a small drill, then the jumpers are bitten out with wire cutters or pliers. When drilling a tile, first place any drill bit in the drilling site and chop off the glaze with light hammer blows. Then you can drill with a pobedit or diamond drill. When drilling with a hammer drill, it must be switched to drilling. Never drill a tile "with a blow" - it will crack. Even if you then drill the tiles already on the wall, for example, in order to hang a cabinet, the glaze is first pierced, then the tile is drilled, and as soon as the drill passes through the tile, you can switch the puncher to strike and drill the wall.

Rice. 127. Device in the hole tile

At the end of the wall cladding with whole tiles, carefully remove the rail so as not to cause shedding of the lower row of tiles. If there is a layer of mortar under the rail, carefully remove it with a spatula. We tear off the rail by lifting it with a nail puller or a screwdriver.

The last stage of laying ceramic wall tiles is the sticker of the bottom row. We apply the adhesive solution on the wall surface under the first row of tiles. With this sequence of work, the uneven edges of the floor tiles will be covered by the plinth wall tiles.

4. Filling the seams.

24 hours after the completion of the laying of ceramic wall tiles, you can start filling the joints, using the putty of the desired color for the joints. Pour the dry mass of the solution into a clean container with water and knead manually or mechanically until a homogeneous mass is obtained. After that, leave the solution for 5–10 minutes to obtain better uniformity, then knead again. Once again, knead the solution and fill the seams with it with a rubber spatula or a grater with glued rubber. We collect the excess mortar with a grater and fill the seams again. When the mortar dries a little (after 15-30 minutes), pre-wash the surface, collecting excess mortar and cleaning the tiles. This work is carried out using a sponge or grater, pasted over with a sponge with large pores, lightly moistened with clean water. After the solution has completely dried (1 hour), which is characterized by a brightened surface of the tiles, we proceed to the final cleaning, which is done with a clean flannel rag or a hard sponge.

The connection between the wall and the floor in rooms where we often encounter water, such as bathrooms, must be filled with a material that ensures tightness. Silicone is perfect for this. Squeeze out the mass from the tube and apply it in excess to the seam, using a manual sprayer, moisten the silicone mass together with the adjacent surface with soap and water. The remaining silicone is collected with a spatula. Moistening with water prevents the silicone mass from sticking to the surface of the tiles.

Rice. 128. Grouting the seams of the cladding and covering with silicone the seam between the shower tray and the cladding

The joints between the bathtub (shower tray) and the tiled wall are similarly made (Fig. 128).

Wall tiling requires certain knowledge and a special tool, there is an opinion that this species Anyone can do the job, but it's not. There are many technologies and nuances that are inaccessible to an ordinary master, using and following which a professional will perform installation in accordance with a single SNiP standard.

Do not forget that the installation of a ceramic “shirt” is the final stage of improvement, a kind of face of the room. Therefore, it should not only be a practical element of decor, but also perform protective, water-repellent, fire-retardant functions. The main part of the work remains invisible, but the quality of the finish depends on them.

Cost of wall tiling

By ordering cladding from the San-Sanych company, you can not only save on the purchase of material, but also receive highly qualified services at an affordable price. Thanks to a variety of constructive, stylistic forms, modern ceramics can be laid in the bedroom, living room, kitchen, bathroom. It all depends on the main goal, as well as the financial capabilities of the customer.

Name of works	Unit rev.	Price per one.
Wall cladding with ceramic tiles of standard sizes with grouting, on a finished base	m2	633 rub.
Wall cladding with ceramic tiles standard size with grouting, on the finished base	m2.	782 rub.
Wall cladding with brick, stone tiles on a prepared surface	m2	748 rub.
Facing slopes, pillars, semi-columns with ceramic tiles	m.p.	748 rub.
Wall cladding with porcelain stoneware over non-standard sizes	m2	978 rub.
Wall cladding with marble slabs	m2	1093 rub.
Installation of a panel of tiles, porcelain stoneware	m2	1001 rub.
Installation of a mosaic panel	m2	1783 rub.
Installation of curb, plinth, corner, facade, window tiles	m.p.	127 rub.
Floor cladding with ceramic tiles with grouting, on the finished base	m2	610 rub.
Floor cladding with porcelain stoneware, with grouting, on the finished base	m2	748 rub.
Laying tiles with an ornament	m2	679 rub.
Facing steps with tiles, porcelain stoneware	m2	771 rub.
Wall and floor tiling with mosaic tiles	m2	978 rub.
Installing corners	PC.	58 rub.
Inspection hatch door device	m2	1093 rub.

The surfaces in the apartment, finished with ceramic material, are practical, durable, unpretentious in care. An extensive color palette allows you to select the cladding for a specific purpose of the room.

The total cost of wall cladding with ceramic tiles consists of:

Market price, dimensions.
The cost of consumables.

It must be understood that Finishing work using small, as well as extra-class tiles, will cost more, as the time for the provision of services increases and the risk of damages increases if individual elements of the material are deformed or damaged.

When ordering services for the comprehensive improvement of the premises, you can get a discount on the footage of work.

Wall cladding with ceramic tiles is carried out on leveled surfaces, cleaned of dirt, alluvium mortar and grease stains. On a surface brickwork with filled joints and concrete surfaces are notched. If the walls are wooden, before facing with ceramic tiles, they must be upholstered with a metal mesh with a mesh size of 10-15 mm. The mesh is not nailed directly to the wooden wall, but to wooden bars 20-25 mm thick and 30-40 mm wide. Between rails and surface wooden wall first you need to lay a layer of roofing felt or roofing material. Coat the grid with cement mortar with the addition of fibrous substances (grade 6-7 asbestos, tow), after which this surface is plastered with cement mortar 1:3. The thickness of the plaster layer must be at least 15 mm. It is not necessary to smooth the plaster and overwrite the plaque.

By the time of tiling, concrete must be at least 6 months old, and cement and cement-lime plasters - at least 28 days.

It should also be remembered that not all walls that will be lined with not cleared of paint can be used for such work. The best way check the suitability of the paint - stick on adhesive tape and leave it overnight. If, when tearing off the tape, you find that the paint is lagging behind, it will have to be removed, otherwise the tile will fall off.

Materials for laying ceramic tiles on the wall

Adhesive selection

For tile work, you will also need adhesives for gluing tiles to the base and compounds for filling joints (other names are grouts, grouts, jointers). The durability of the cladding depends on the correct choice of adhesives.

You can lay tiles in the traditional way - on a cement-sand mortar, but it does not ensure the durability of the coating. Under the influence of mechanical loads, the cement-sand mixture is gradually destroyed, and under the influence of water and aggressive environments, the inter-tile grout is destroyed, after which the tiles begin to fall off one after another. Therefore, for gluing tiles and grouting joints, it is necessary to use cement-polymer mixtures with the addition of acrylic dispersions or water-borne epoxy resins.

The formulation of special additives determines the consumer properties and cost of tile mixes. For example, some quick-setting adhesives are preferred for tiling on difficult substrates such as painted surfaces, old tiles, plastic panels, drywall boards. True, not all tile mixtures are absolutely water resistant and resistant to antibacterial additives (including chlorine-containing ones), that is, not every adhesive is suitable for tiling pools, showers, etc. with ceramic tiles. When laying tiles on surfaces subject to cyclic temperature exposure (fireplaces, heated floors), it is necessary to select special adhesives.

Unfavorable weather conditions make it preferable to use an adhesive with extended open time. The designation of adhesives of this class contains the letter E, for example: C2E - cement adhesive, improved, with increased open time (E).

For conventional adhesives, the full curing period is 14 days. This period can be significantly reduced (up to 1-2 days) by the use of fast-setting adhesives (letter F in the designation of the adhesive class).

The choice of adhesive is influenced by a number of factors: the type of tile, its dimensions, the type of base on which it will be laid, operating conditions and work. In addition, you should take into account how much time is available before the start of use of the coating: when deadlines are short, special materials are needed.

The adhesive for laying ceramic tiles must guarantee a secure bond between the substrate and facing material. It must have high adhesion to the main types of building materials. The curing of the composition should occur quickly enough and without shrinkage. However, you should leave some time before curing (for different brands it is different) - for correcting tiles after gluing.

According to their purpose, tile adhesives are divided into:

formulations for internal use (waterproof or non-waterproof)
compositions for external use.

In addition, there are universal adhesive compositions for external and internal use. However, the use of any adhesive requires proper preparation ground, which must be clean, level and dry. Smooth paint coatings must be made rough by treating them, for example, with a coarse-grained "skin" or by scratching the surface.

Currently, adhesives in the form of dry mixes based on cement with additives are actively used. It is an easy-to-process mortar with a low amount of lumps and high adhesive power, which is formed when mixed with water. The required amount of water is indicated on the package. Generally, dry mix adhesives are suitable for leveling surfaces and filling. Although the practice of using cement-sand mortar for tile installation and grouting is widespread, it is not the best technology, as it does not provide a durable coating. Firstly, having a low compressive strength, the underlying cement-sand mixture under the influence of mechanical loads gradually collapses, and secondly, under the influence of water and aggressive media, the inter-tile grout is destroyed, the liquid penetrates to the underlying layer and the base and destroys them. The adhesion is broken, and the tiles begin to fall off one by one. After some time, the process of destruction of the cladding acquires an avalanche-like character:

Therefore, for gluing tiles and grouting, it is necessary to use specialized compounds, which can be cement-polymer (with the addition of acrylic dispersions or water-borne epoxy resins) and polymer (usually based on epoxy filled compounds). Typically, cement-polymer compounds are used when gluing tiles in dry rooms, and polymer compounds are used when gluing tiles in "wet" and in the presence of aggressive environments. However, the presence of chemical solvents makes them more hazardous to health than dry mixes and requires good ventilation. The use of special additives determines the consumer properties and cost of tile mixes. Some special recipes

adhesive compositions allows them to be used for mounting tiles on difficult substrates, such as painted surfaces, old tiles, plastic panels, gypsum boards.

Ceramic tiles can be laid end-to-end, but joints should be left between them, which are filled with grouting solution (fugue). Grouting is done after the glue has completely dried. The seams play an important role: the tiles do not crack or fall off, the seams hide the dimensional defects of the tiles, and give the surface a more aesthetic appearance. The width of the joint depends on the size of the tile: the larger the tile, the wider the joint. Small tiles (15 x 15 cm) should be 2-3 mm apart, and floor tiles 35 x 40 cm should be up to 10-12 mm apart. The material for filling the joints must be selected by color, but the final color of the fugue is set after the solution has completely dried.

A high-quality and well-prepared grouting solution is very plastic and well fills the seams between ceramic, marble, concrete, stone tiles. The mixture is suitable for use both inside and outside buildings, in dry and wet rooms. After complete hardening, the seams become moisture resistant, as well as resistant to high and low temperatures.

There are two types of grout mix. Depending on the width of the joints between the laid tiles, mixtures are used for narrow joints (up to 6 mm) or for wide joints (from 4 to 16 mm). Narrow reveals are produced in wide color scheme, which allows you to choose the appropriate color for any type of tile.

Currently, for grouting joints between ceramic tiles, dry mixes are most widely used, which are usually produced on the basis of white cement, natural fillers, modifying chemical additives and pigment. Polymer Additives allow to avoid the formation of shrinkage cracks, give the material strength and moisture resistance. Chemical additives introduced into grouting compounds give them frost resistance properties, which allows them to be used for grouting joints in external facing works.

It is important to note that moisture resistance does not always imply the suitability of a particular compound for use in swimming pools, bathrooms, etc. In such cases, it may be necessary to use special grouting materials.

It is recommended to use a mixture of the same number and the same packaging date to avoid slight color differences. During operation, avoid direct sun rays and drafts. We also note that the choice of suitable materials for tiling is quite wide, and in this matter, you should first of all focus on the reputation of the manufacturer, and it is better to entrust the laying of tiles to specialists.

Proper gluing of tiles on one wall is not difficult. Problems arise when you need to glue tiles in corners, along the edges of the bathtub or in other places that are difficult to work with.

Previously, special tiles were used for such purposes, one or two of the edges of which were covered with glaze. However, they were not impact resistant. Currently, the corners are trimmed with special strips made of artificial material(mostly plastic). The shape of the planks is selected in such a way that it is possible to finish the inner and outer corners, joining the walls with the edges of the bath or walls with the floor. The color range of the planks produced is very wide (they are also produced with different patterns): from one-color, including golden ones, to marble ones.

A special group is universal finishing strips. They are used at the joints of tiles of various thicknesses; quite often it is necessary to join wall tiles with a thickness of 7 mm with a floor thickness of 9 mm with their help. Also, these strips are used for uneven corners in the kitchen or in the bathroom. Due to their elasticity, these strips are also used for joints in angles other than straight.

Wall tiling options

It is important to choose the right place to start work. As reliable support for tiles, wooden slats are usually used. You need to carefully plan the location of the tiles and cut the end tiles accurately. The final operation is filling the joints. Ceramic tiles can be laid on the wall in several ways: “seam to seam”, “tied up” and “diagonally”

Features of wall cladding using the seam-to-seam method

When facing a seam in a seam in horizontal rows, the tiles are located one after another without displacement relative to the tiles of the previous rows. The seams along the entire lined surface form single horizontal and vertical lines extending from the beginning to the end of the lining

A great option for lovers of strict symmetry. However, "symmetrical" does not mean "boring", and seam-to-seam facing is not as easy as it might seem. The seams must be absolutely straight and uniform in thickness. Any deviation from the ideal will be immediately evident. The key to success when facing a seam in a seam is as follows: the first is the careful sorting of tiles by size, the second is accuracy and precision in work.

Features of wall cladding in a way apart

When facing in a scatter, the tiles of the next row are located with an offset relative to the tiles of the previous row. The offset is chosen the same: half the width of the tile. Stitches in even rows form their own broken line, seams in odd rows form their own.

The advantage of this method is that it eliminates the need to carefully sort the tiles by size. Small deviations in the thickness of the joints will not be as noticeable as when facing the seam in the seam. Of course, this does not mean that tiles can be glued somehow without worrying about the verticality and thickness of the seams when facing side by side. Plastic crosses help to maintain a certain seam width. Verticality is periodically checked with a plumb bob.

Features of diagonal wall cladding

With diagonal cladding, tile joints form a grid of mutually perpendicular lines that intersect the horizontal axis at an angle of 45 °

When marking, the base is divided in such a way that an integer number of triangular tiles (that is, tiles cut in half diagonally) fit vertically and horizontally.

A mooring cord is pulled along the seam line and rows of tiles are laid along it between the triangular tiles and the wall along the entire perimeter. Then lay out triangular tiles. Fragments of incomplete tiles are fixed in the corners right size.

Finally, lay the main tile. Four cords are fixed on the pins: two groups of two parallel cords. The cords are pulled at an angle of 45 °. Ordinary tiles are laid out along these moorings. In the process of work, the series are periodically checked by the rule with the level.

Scheme of diagonal tile laying: 1 - pins, 2 - mooring cords, 3 - rows of tiles around the perimeter, 4 - rows of triangular tiles.

The most important part of tile work is cutting tiles, but if available good machine and everything is measured correctly, then there is no need to worry. For curved cuts, such as around pipes, it is best to use a tile saw. This special tool makes the job much easier. When tiling, a lot of dirt appears, so it is important style = “margin-top: 15px;” about periodically washing tools and preventing droplets of solutions from hardening on the surface of the tiles.

Before cutting the tile, it is better to soak it in water. When 40-60 minutes have passed, you need to cut the tile at the marked line with a roller glass cutter. Then, aligning the cut line with the edge of the table, break the tile: it will disintegrate exactly along the cut line. After that, the edges must be trimmed with a grinding stone or sandpaper and sanded. To break off round pieces, it is better to use wire cutters.

Since ceramic tiles have certain fixed dimensions, it will take quite a lot of tiles to get the job done. To make the work look professional, you need to try to place whole tiles on the wall. To complete the ends of horizontal rows, and the top and bottom of vertical rows, it is best to use tiles cut to the same width. The width of cut tiles should be between 1/4 and 3/4 of the width of the whole tile: narrower and wider parts are difficult to cut accurately. Since the rooms are not regular rectangles, it is necessary to lay all the whole tiles of the row before cutting the end tiles. Therefore, planning the placement of tiles is the most important part of the job.

One of the most complex operations- arrangement of holes in ceramic tiles. First, with the sharp end of the tap or the angle of the chisel blade at the site of the future hole, you need to remove the glaze. To do this, lightly tap the tool with a hammer. Further steps may vary.

If the tile is already glued to the wall, the intended hole can be drilled hand drill(the electric one has too high speed). At the same time, a drill or a punch with a winning surfacing must be clamped into the chuck.

In a tile that has not yet been installed on the wall, it is better to make a hole by simply holding the drill in your hand.

You can drill a tile in order to hang a shelf, a soap dish and other items on the wall as follows. They take a medium-sized file and its end, on which a handle is placed; put on the point of the tile where it is planned to make a hole. Then, with light blows of a hammer, on the opposite end of the file, carefully, so as not to split, pierce the top shiny layer of the tile (glaze). Now, with a brace or an electric drill, carefully drill the tile with a drill. The drill needs to be moistened from time to time.

Larger cutouts in the tiles must first be marked on the front side. Then make notches (for example, with a center punch) to install the drill tip. Now, along the perimeter of the given cutout, it is necessary to drill holes of 04-5 mm at a low number of revolutions of the drill, and then drill the same holes with a drill of a larger diameter. Further, the part outlined in this way is knocked out, cut out or sawed out.

To make holes of large diameter, you can use a special crown cutter or ballerina drill.

Sometimes the tile is simply broken into pieces and suitable fragments are glued to the wall, bypassing an obstacle (for example, a pipe).

Cutting corners and niches around the perimeter of the tile, they first scratch a line of the appropriate shape on it, and then break it off with special pliers.

When facing bathrooms, to eliminate the gap between the bathroom and the wall, you can make an ebb of tile. It is installed on a cement-sand mortar. First, the tiles are cut. It should be taken into account its future slope, the width of the seams and the fact that the cut edge should be turned towards the wall. Then the gap between the bathtub and the wall is filled with something flush with the upper edge of the bathtub so that the solution does not spill down. A solution is applied to the back of the tile and put in place. Then it is gently tapped with a rubber mallet, aligning the upper edge with the plane of the wall and achieving the required slope. Seams are made with crosses.

Ceramic tile laying technology: a) application of adhesive solution on the wall surface; b) laying the first tile according to the rules; c) laying the rest of the tiles using beacons; d) cutting tiles; e) grouting joints between tiles; f) cleaning of the facing surface after completion of work

Tiles are laid in horizontal rows from bottom to top. Cover a small area of the wall at a time so the adhesive doesn't have time to harden before you put the tiles in place

Stage 1. Having attached a horizontal guide bar to the wall, it must be installed strictly horizontally according to the spirit level. Then it should be fixed on the wall so that it can be easily removed later.
Stage 2. At the edge of the area to be lined, you need to attach a second bar at a right angle to the horizontal guide - this will be the vertical guide for the vertical row. It is best to attach horizontal and vertical guides to all clad walls.
Stage 3. It is necessary to apply glue to an area of approximately 1 m 2, spreading it with a notched spatula so that the glue surface is grooved. Then you need to attach the first tile in the corner formed by the two planks. Lay the first row along the wall to another vertical rail. Plastic crosses must be inserted into the intervals between tiles if the edges are rectangular; Tiles with rounded edges or with protrusions at the bottom must be applied close to each other.
Stage 4. Continue laying the next horizontal rows between the vertical strips to the desired height. Then you need to run a knife along the edges of the rails to clean the joints from the adhesive solution. After removing the guide strips, you should mark the incomplete tiles, cut them and put on the glue in the places left for them.
Stage 5. Allow the adhesive to harden for 12 hours. During this time, treat the area not yet covered with tiles. Then grout the seams and close the gaps between the bathtub, washbasin, kitchen worktop, etc. and the wall. At the end of the work it is necessary to wipe the tiles with a damp cloth.

Corner cladding

When facing walls tiles you almost always have to deal with corners. You should be prepared to solve these problems in advance, at the planning and layout stage.

At inner corner cladding you need to overlap the edge of one tile on the plane of another. It is better to think in advance how to make sure that there is a gap for grouting.

Run outer corner cladding It is possible with the help of a double-sided finishing strip, which is applied to the adhesive solution and which simultaneously fixes 2 vertical rows of tiles on both sides. Sometimes a one-sided finishing strip is used, especially if the tile is not rounded. Instead of using a finishing strip, you can simply lap adjacent tiles on top of one another, making sure the top one has a rounded or glazed edge.

The area of the wall directly behind the sink or sink needs to be protected from splashing water. To do this, it is best to tile it. If the sink or sink is installed parallel to the wall, you can use its back edge as a support for the first row of tiles.

The wall above the sink is usually tiled, which allows you to turn this place into an attractive decor element. The joint between the bottom row of tiles and the edge of the sink must be well sealed silicone sealant. To get a neat bead of sealant, before applying it, you need to make a guide from masking tape.

Wall cladding above the sink will look prettier if only full-width tiles are applied, without trimming. For framing, you can lay out curb tiles around the perimeter of this area. When facing the wall above the sink, tiles of any size are suitable, but it is better to use large ones. Their use allows to reduce the number of cemented joints, and this prolongs the service life of the cladding. Cement is destroyed first of all, so the fewer joints, the smaller the volume of future repair work. Since the size of the area to be tiled is small and does not require a lot of tiles, it is better to spend a little more money and buy what you like. This slight extravagance can greatly increase the decorative appeal of a finish while maintaining its practicality. So, let's get to the lining.

Stage 1. In order for the pattern to be symmetrical, it is necessary to lay the tiles from the center of the sink to its sides. Having found the center of the back edge of the sink, you need to attach a spirit level vertically to the center point and draw a drive line along it with a pencil.
Stage 2. When facing relatively small areas, it is more convenient to apply the mortar directly to the back side of the tiles, and not to the wall, as is usually done.
Stage 3. Lay the first tile on the wall, aligning it exactly with the vertical drive line. To achieve a strong adhesion, it is necessary to firmly press the tile to the wall surface.
Stage 4. Lay the next tile on the other side of the drive line towards the opposite edge of the sink, aligning it with the drive line. To obtain the same gap between the tiles, as well as between the bottom row of tiles and the sink, it is better to use spacers. Lay all tiles.
Stage 5. Let the lined area be framed by a border. When laying curb tiles, spacers should be used to achieve an even gap between large tiles and the curb. The solution must be applied to the reverse side of the curb tiles.
Stage 6. It is possible that in order to accurately frame the tiled area, several curb tiles will have to be cut. The square shape of the tiles allows you to cut them to the desired size. You need to plan the layout of the tiles so that the cut tiles are in the least visible places.
Stage 7. After laying all the tiles, allow the mortar to set for 24 hours. Cement all joints. When the solution dries, you need to wipe off its remnants. Having pasted a masking tape along the joint, it is necessary to seal the joint between the lower row of tiles and the sink with silicone sealant.
Stage 8. After applying the sealant, while it is not yet dry, you need to remove the strips of tape. Along the junction of the tile with the sink, you get a neat bead of sealant. Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before using the sink.

Placing entire tiles on a wall free of obstructions such as windows and doors is simple. But obstacles, especially windows, complicate this task. Since the window is the centerpiece of the wall, the tiles must be positioned relative to the center of the window.

Stage 1. To plan the placement of tiles, you need to do measuring ruler. To do this, you can take a 50 × 25 mm plank of softwood 1 m long with edges planed along the ruler. Lay several tiles along the plank and, if the tiles do not have protrusions or spacers, mark the width of the tiles on the plank.
Stage 2. Having attached a measuring ruler horizontally to the wall, you need to determine where the whole tiles will be. You should arrange them so that the end tiles are the same size.
Stage 3. If the end tiles are too narrow (less than one quarter of the width of the whole tile), move the ruler half the width of the whole tile. This will increase the width of the end tiles.

Wall tiling in difficult places

When tiling adjoining walls, you will need to tile the inside and possibly outside corners. Since the corners are rarely straight, each wall should be clad separately, working along the horizontal guide rails. Care must be taken when installing horizontal rails on adjacent walls - they must be on the same level. Even with a slight mismatch in levels, the vertical rows will diverge, and when facing the wall to the ceiling, the horizontal rows will not match along the junction line above the door. When facing a window opening, you first need to veneer the front wall with whole tiles, then lay the trimmed ones and veneer the side walls of the niche and the window sill. If the door is in the center of the wall and the tile is laid up to the ceiling, then it must be positioned so as to avoid narrow tiles next to the door and in the corners of the room. If the door is in a corner, first tile two walls, then cut the tiles and lay them above the door. Techniques for cladding a window niche are also used for cladding a doorway.

Stage 1. When facing the wall to the ceiling, you need to lay all the whole tiles on the side of the window, but not above the window. Attach the plank to the wall so that its top edge is flush with the bottom edge of the lowest row of whole tiles above the level of the top of the window. This plank will serve as a support for whole tiles laid above the window.
Stage 2. Lay the cut tiles on the sides of the window, starting at the windowsill. To fit the tile to the window sill, you may need to make an L-cut (see step 3) or use wire cutters (see step 5). To make it easier to cut tiles, you need to plan ahead for their placement.
Stage 3. If you want to make an L-shaped cut in the tile, you need to mark the cut lines on the front side of the tile. Clamping the tile in a vise between wooden blocks, make the first cut with a saw. Having made the second cut, it is necessary to break out a piece of tile, and clean the edges with a file. Thin tiles must be clamped horizontally so that they do not crack.
Stage 4. You need to wait for the mortar to set, and then you should remove the bar at the top of the window and lay the rest of the tiles on the wall. It is possible that the corner tiles will need to be cut into an L shape. To avoid the need for narrow strips that are difficult to cut, plan the layout of the tiles in advance.
Stage 5. If you want to cut a narrow strip from the tile, you need to make a notch along the cut line with a cutter, and then break off excess pieces with wire cutters. Clean the edge with a tile file. (Having made a curved notch with a hand cutter, cutters can make a cut of the appropriate shape.)
Stage 6. Lay whole tiles inside the window niche. If the tiles do not have separating ridges, spacers can be used to create a grouted gap between the bottom tiles and the sill.
Stage 7. Finally, measure and cut each tile for facing adjacent to window frame part of the side wall of the window niche. After the mortar has set, the joints can be cemented.
Stage 8. In the inner corner, cut and lay the tiles of the last vertical row on one wall so that they fit into the corner. Then lay the last vertical row of tiles on the second wall, using spacers to create a grouted gap in the corner between the two vertical rows. On the outer corner, lay whole tiles on each side of the corner.

Small tiles - sheet mosaic - are a good alternative to large or standard size tiles. Unlike ordinary tiles, mosaic tiles allow you to create decorative panels With small details while maintaining surface wear resistance. Mosaic tiles are laid in large blocks of the same color that can be cut into borders, or mixed blocks of different colors to create a combined pattern. This option gives a good result when all walls are tiled or when a brighter and more attractive finish is required.

Sheet mosaic tile has all the advantages of the usual, but looks different. The tiles are attached to a mesh backing, so the sheets are easy to cut and attach to the wall. Mosaic tiles can also be used to cover small areas. For amplification decorative effect you should combine mosaic tiles of different colors.

Since the size of the mosaic tiles is small, they are attached to the substrate to form sheets, so that a large number of such tiles are laid at one time. To cover small areas or create desired effects, individual tiles or strips of tiles can be separated from the sheet. To obtain good results, even when creating arbitrary patterns, it is necessary to reproduce the pattern on the floor, dry, before covering the wall. When facing large areas, it is better to use a template ruler.

Stage 1. Before laying the tiles on the wall, you need to decide how adjacent sheets will fit together. To do this, it is better to lay them on a flat surface or on a board, overlapping one sheet with another, as you will need to cut through the substrate.
Stage 2 . In each row of overlapping sections of tiles, cut through the backing of both sheets with a knife. To get stripes different lengths you can cut in each row from one to five tiles.
Stage 3. After removing the extra tiles, it is necessary to lay the sheets on a flat surface so that the "protrusions" of one sheet enter the "grooves" of the other. The resulting initial pattern can be changed by replacing tiles of one color with tiles of another. Having decided which tiles in each sheet you want to replace, they need to be marked with a wax pencil.
Stage 4. Lay the first sheet on the wall, using the rail as a support for the bottom row. Align the tiles with a mini-roller for their strong and uniform adhesion to the wall surface.
Stage 5. Glue a sheet of tiles of a different color by inserting its “protrusions” into the “slots” of the first sheet according to the sketch. Smooth the tiles again with a mini-roller. Particular attention should be paid to the joints between the sheets, ensuring their exact alignment.
Stage 6. Before the mortar sets, you need to cut out the marked tiles with a knife. This operation is best performed at this stage of the work, since sheets with numerous cutouts of various sizes are more difficult to lay on the wall.
Stage 7. Glue the individual mosaic tiles into the appropriate holes. Lay the rest of the sheets in the same way, completing the creation of an arbitrary pattern. When the solution sets, close the joints in the usual way.