In households, it is often necessary to use cutting, sawing and planing tools. In the process of work, they lose their sharpness, and the blade needs to be restored to its original properties.

Taking the tools to the workshops to be sharpened is a reasonable option, but in order not to waste money again, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands.

General information about knife sharpening

The goal of any kind of knife sharpening is to keep the blade sharp. And the most important factor that affects long-term and efficient operation is the size of the sharpening angle. The practicality of such a parameter is well evaluated in the course of work. If you look objectively, you can see that with a smaller value of the angle, the knife blade as a result is sharper. But with such an action, it turns out that the period of improved cutting qualities is not very long, that is, it becomes dull faster. The sharper a knife blade becomes during the sharpening process, the faster it will become blunt. On the basis of this regularity, it can be concluded that the angle must be chosen correctly and the false value should be observed uniformly along the entire length of the edge.

It should be noted that only those types of blades that have a certain degree of hardening are subject to sharpening. If the hardness of the steel on the cutting parts exceeds 55 HRC, then it cannot be sharpened with any improvised tool.

The golden rule for sharpening knives is to keep the sharpening angle of the cutting edge unchanged throughout its entire length.

To achieve this, professionalism, skills and special equipment are required, which will allow you to hold the tool in your hands, maintaining a given angle of inclination of each cutting edge.

In this case, you can take care of buying a special device, but such products are usually expensive, so you can try to make it yourself. For more information on how to make such a device at home, read below.

Video "Homemade design of a simple knife sharpener"

Features of using the device

Of course, a simple whetstone is fine for sharpening a knife or planer cutting edge. But its quality will not be the best. To ensure uniform removal of the metal layer and the accuracy of processing, it is necessary to use special grinding devices.

The advantage of such a product is not only the convenience of its use, but also factors such as:

1. The possibility of fixing the blades, which is quite reliable and does not exert excessive load. a properly designed device does not allow damage to the metal during operation.
2. Possibility of installing a bar under certain angle. Due to this, when the cutting edge moves, the angle value will not change.
3. Variation of installation of different angles of sharpening. With this functionality, it is possible to process various tools, even sharpening knives with a stepped structure.

Materials and tools required for the device

To perform a simple and quite solid fixture, you need to take care of preparing the following blanks and tools:

• plywood or a small laminated chipboard sheet;
• steel stud with a diameter of 8 mm (the thread on it must be cut along the entire length);
• textolite or ebonite bar (as an alternative, you can replace it with hardwoods - beech, oak, etc.);
• aluminum plate (with a thickness of at least 5 mm);
• fasteners - bolts, nuts (wing nuts);
• neodymium magnet (it can be found on an old computer HDD).

Do-it-yourself drawings of a tool for sharpening knives

After preparing and completing the materials, you can begin the process of assembling the fixture. First of all, we take plywood to be used as a bed, which should rest on the mounting legs at a certain angle in the range from 15 to 20 degrees. After that, the hairpin prepared by us is twisted into the lower part, its length should be approximately 35-40 cm. To make the fitting thread stronger, you can use glue or sealant.

In the center of the installed plywood, we fasten the aluminum plate. Before fastening it, it is necessary to make a groove, which in size will correspond to the diameter of the fixing bolts. It is worth noting that we are using an aluminum blade as this will help avoid damage to the steel blade of the knife.

After that, we proceed to the manufacture of a lever that will allow you to fix the emery on the device. To assemble it, use the rest of the stud. Then we take two textolite (or wooden) bars and by cutting out we make holders for the lever. On one side, the stops must be fixed with a wing nut.

Near the handle, it is optimal to provide for the presence of a spring-loaded block, which will allow you to quickly change the emery stone.

As the main elements, you can use blanks from home-made bars - we glue sheets of sandpaper to the aluminum plate, while their grain size should be different. Such a device can be easily fixed in the lever.

home design feature- this is the presence of a hinge with a double degree of freedom. Such a device can be easily assembled using the same textolite bars for this. One of them must be screwed onto the threads of the vertical stud, and used as a horizontal pivot and height adjuster for the linkage (this is necessary to set the sharpening angle).

The function of the second bar, which has a horizontal hole for the lever, is that it must be screwed to the first.

Thanks to this, it is possible to ensure free type of movement of the entire lever structure vertically.

Knives are clamped with a plate, or fixed on the surface of a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse types of abrasive, the blade must be securely fixed.

If it is necessary to perform fine-tuning, then you can install the blade on a magnet and perform the sharpening operation with little effort. The horseshoe of the magnets should be recessed flush with the tabletop and seated with epoxy.

Making a homemade tool for sharpening knives can be considered complete. It is enough to set the desired angle, slowly sharpen the edge with a smooth movement along the entire length of the blade.

Video "Knife sharpener with your own hands"

Device for sharpening knives on an electric emery

An electric sharpener will allow not only to speed up the work, but also makes it possible to obtain high-quality concave edge profiles on the blades, the so-called fuller sharpening. It is impossible to achieve such forms using a linear bar; therefore, these types of devices are not interchangeable, but complementary devices.

It is noteworthy that a person, working on a manual grinding device, controls the speed and intensity of the processes performed, while the emery wheel has a constantly high rotation speed, which can adversely affect the condition of the knife.

When friction metal surface lends itself to strong heating, which results in the "vacation" of the hardening of steel. The material loses many properties, it becomes less hard, which leads to grinding and the appearance of torn edges. Another problem with a "released" knife is the rapid loss of sharpness. In this regard, you need to work carefully on the electric emery, bringing the blade to sharpen the abrasive for short periods of time and taking frequent breaks so that the knife cools down.

Working in such modes, it is quite problematic to maintain constant angles, so the tool needs to be securely fixed during such processing.

To implement the design of such a device is quite simple. In the direction of the rotating axis on the emery there are guides along which the carriages with knives move. The angles are maintained mechanically, and the forces are determined directly by the operator.

This type of fixture is quite simple to do with your own hands - while there is no need to perform precise work to process metal parts. For the manufacture of guides, the foot material is actually used.

On the workbench, near the sharpener, guides are fastened, with the help of which it is possible to change the distance from the knife stops to the abrasive. This distance affects the sharpening angle. On the vertical bar must be present up and down freewheel regulators, which have strong types of fixing the current positions.

The knife blade must be drawn horizontally, pressed against the thrust element. The force in contact with the emery must be adjusted directly in the process. Processing must be performed symmetrically, it is enough just to change the sides of the knife and sharpen them at the same angles.

Application this method can only be used when processing the classic type of knives. Kitchen, hunting, tourist and other types of cutting planes of various tools need a slightly different approach.

A common type of design for sharpening knives - "joiner"

For such a device, it is necessary to use a specialized emery, with an end type of working surface. The guide under the carriage is placed at the bottom so that it is located away from the rotating axis. This is due to the fact that in this part of the abrasive wheel, its work is considered the most effective. Guides with cutting elements move manually, the clamps are provided by the own weight of the tool.

A drawing of each structural is presented in the image.

This type of machine was used at the beginning of the last century, and for all the time the technology of its operation has remained unchanged. Due to the simplicity of this device, it is easy to make it for your home workshop. For this, any components made of metal, plastic, wood are suitable.

By replacing the cutting element on the jointer, you can sharpen ice ax knives, the main thing is to maintain the correct angle, which should be more gentle. The same principle applies to sharpening scissors.

To sharpen a chisel and a knife from a planer, you can also use electric emery and locking carriages. But these types of tools are compact, and they can be sharpened with a mechanical device.

There are equivalent ways - along the edges, and across. In terms of quality, the processing is virtually identical; therefore, it is impossible, therefore, to single out a specific type of fixture.

For factory products, transverse edits of the blades are assumed.

By a similar principle, thick plywood is taken from which the card case is made. Any rollers can be used as a guide, preferably in an amount of more than two. By moving the machine along the surface of the emery, the ideal shape is given to the blade of the chisel.

If serious types of sharpening are not required, simpler devices are also suitable for small edits.

Fasten the bars with the required angles of inclination to the chisel. Put emery and a piece of glass near them. Soap solution should be applied to the glass surface.

You will be pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of such devices.

For transverse sharpening - it is worth making a simpler device, where the guide element is also used as a support. A blade is fixed vertically on the movable part. The only drawback of this is the fixed angle, which is set during the manufacturing process.

But, compared with a knife, the deviations from ideals that have arisen are not so critical.

This type of fixture can be used to sharpen planer knives. But due to the wide size of the blades, the process is somewhat more complicated. In this regard, you can use an electric grinder that has an end working surface.

The stops are made from wooden blocks. It is important to provide for the possibility of changing angles. Clamps are provided by the operator, and semi-circular sharpening can be performed, which is very indispensable for carpenters.

Naturally, this device is convenient to use for sharpening the edges of chisels. If, given the high performance index, you will be able to restore tools even with a large number chipping.

Now you know how you can create a homemade sharpener to perform all the necessary operations for sharpening knives at home.

Video "Device for sharpening various types of knives"

Almost everyone has home master cutting tools are available. Over time, the cutting edges lose their former sharpness, and working with such a product becomes unbearable. There are two options for solving this problem: give the tool for sharpening and pay a lot of money, or assemble a device for sharpening knives yourself and sharpen the products with your own hands.

Reasons for a dull blade

Blade blunting can be explained as follows. During cutting, the smallest abrasive particles, whether fruits or vegetables, act on the blade. The cutting edge of the blade is gradually erased, and the knife becomes dull. Another reason is the retention of the blade when cutting at a certain angle.

On some parts of the blade, the load increases, and increased wear occurs.

There are types of knives that cannot be sharpened on their own because of the embossed blades. Also, knives made of ceramics cannot be sharpened. But, as a rule, the quality of steel for such products is high, and they rarely become dull. There is a variety of knives of low quality, and they have to be sharpened very often. As practice shows, if the steel is of poor quality, then sharpening will solve the problem for a while, and then the blade will become dull again.

To sharpen knives, you will need abrasive wheels. If it is not possible to purchase ready-made circles, then you can make them yourself using wooden bars and sandpaper of different grain sizes.

The standard sharpening angle is 20 - 30 degrees. It is quite difficult to maintain the angle during sharpening, and therefore it is necessary to make a simple knife sharpener in which it is not necessary to withstand optimal angle. The basic rule in this process is the observance of a precisely set constant angle. Strength is not required here. The main thing is that the bar and the blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of sharpening technique.

Basic Mistakes

As it may seem at first glance, sharpening is simple, but if you delve into the process itself, you can notice a fairly large number of different nuances. Most people make commonplace mistakes when sharpening knives, which leads to uneven sharpening or damage to the knife. Common Mistakes when sharpening:

• The cutting edge has not been sharpened. As a result, small burrs form on the sides, which temporarily sharpen the blade, and after a short work with the knife, the blade becomes dull again. To prevent this problem, carefully sharpen both edges, and then, as you sharpen, use sandpaper or a circle of different grain sizes.
• The presence of paint, oil, dirt on the tip. The bottom line is that when turning, grease, dirt, oil and other components are mixed with grinding abrasives and lead to scratches and micro-splitting of the blade. After such sharpening, the blade becomes dull quickly.
• Pressure plays an important role. It is necessary to remember one simple rule: sharpness does not depend on the applied force, but on the duration of sharpening. Excessively strong pressure leads to chipping of microparticles from the blade and to poor-quality sharpening.
• Wrong choice of angle. The angle may vary - depending on the grade of steel and on the purpose of the tool. For home kitchen knives, it is 20 - 25 degrees. For other types of blades that have to withstand heavy loads and work with hard materials, the angle will be 40 degrees.

Guided by simple, but at the same time relevant rules for sharpening, you can not only save time, but also not spoil the product.​

Sharpener "House"

Nice tool for sharpening knives. Despite the simple design, the sharpener does its job well. This structure consists of a bar rectangular shape, the upper face of which is made in the form gable roof. The angle of inclination of one face is 20 - 25 degrees, which is optimal. The product must be installed with a blade close to one of the ridges of the roof, then take an abrasive wheel or a bar with emery and move along a horizontal line. This ensures a constant angle of inclination, which leads to uniform sharpening of the blade.

There are also complex designs of homemade grinder. For the manufacture will need the following materials:

• A piece of board measuring 500x150x20 mm.
• Threaded metal stud that will serve as a guide for the bar.
• M8 bolts and nuts and wood screws.
• Clamping nuts or nuts - "lamb".
• Ordinary textolite or plexiglass, which will serve as a substrate for a knife and a kind of movable bed.
• To attach the knife, take Neodymium magnet. The usual one will not work, since its downforce is quite small.

The board must be cleaned, processed, and then made into a rectangle. Another board should be made in a rectangular shape, which will serve as a stand or support. Its height should be such that the slope of the main board is 20 degrees. You can fasten them together with wood screws. Then attach the resulting structure to the workbench or cut out the tabletop in advance, to which one of the studs will be attached. After securely fastening the stud to the tabletop, you need to take a 200x100 bar and make two holes in it: one for the main stud, on which the movable carriage with a sharpener will be attached, and the other for the stud, which is attached to the tabletop.

Now you can start assembling the carriage with the sharpener holder. On the pin that will hold the carriage, you need to make two clips made of wood, plexiglass or metal. Drill holes in the clamps, put them on the stud and fix them on both sides with nuts. The carriage will rotate freely on its axis.

The next step will be the installation of a neodymium magnet on a previously prepared plate. It is necessary to make a longitudinal groove in it - so that the tripod can be moved up and down. Drill a hole in the middle of the bed and insert a bolt with a nut, which, in turn, will press the plate. At the end of the plate, you can simply glue a neodymium magnet to hold the knife.

Homemade device is ready to use. With it, you can sharpen chisels and planers.

It should be noted that sharpening is carried out without water, so the abrasive paper or wheel will wear out a lot, but this option is quite suitable for sharpening knives and tools at home.

home knife sharpener

If the farm has grinding machine, it will facilitate the process, but there is one circumstance. When sharpening on the machine, it is almost impossible to evenly press on the knife. Therefore, it is possible to make a knife sharpener that will serve as a guide for the blade and provide uniform pressure. Get a simple but effective electric sharpener. For its manufacture you will need the following components:

• Bar.
• Four bolts or four studs with M8 thread.
• Four lambs.
• Wood screws.

Opposite the electric grinder, a guide is attached along which the slider will move. The guide itself can be attached to a workbench or pre-made frame. She must be mobile. To do this, you can cut a longitudinal groove in the frame and fix the tripod with two pins. Then take two bars, drill holes on the sides, insert the studs and tighten them with lambs on both sides. The next step will be the mount on which the cutting product will lie. This can be done using small pieces of timber, which should be attached to the sides of the moving carriage.

After that, you can start sharpening. Set the movable carriage to the desired height and clamp it with the lambs. Move the tripod itself to the desired distance, securely fasten and sharpen the product by moving the knife along the side guides.

Sharpener LM

If in the future it is planned to engage in professional tool sharpening in large quantities, then you can make a sharpener, which is called: Lansky-Metabo. Fixture drawings for sharpening knives with your own hands are as follows:

If the product is clamped in the clamps by the root part, then the sharpening angle will be the largest. A knife with this angle can be used as a "cleaver" and processing hardwood. You can also easily sharpen knives from a jointer. Clips for a knife can be made from a corner or from a tree. The disadvantage of this design is the complexity of the assembly and the large number of parts.

If it is not possible to assemble a complex tool for sharpening knives, then you can get by with improvised means and make manual knife sharpeners. A simple sharpener can be made from a corner frame in which a whetstone is mounted.

If the sharpener is supplemented with a sliding carriage, then you do not have to hold the knife at a certain angle, which, in turn, will have a good effect on sharpening the blade. To make a movable carriage, you will need a triangular bar and a magnet. It is best to use a neodymium magnet, which allows you to attract the knife and fix it securely. If there is no such magnet, then you can take components from the HDD (hard disk).

Before you give a knife or other product for sharpening, you should familiarize yourself with the material that will help not only in making a sharpener with your own hands, but also save a certain amount. The main aspect is to gain additional experience that will come in handy in the future.

Greetings, DIYers!
Today I want to show you how you can use the materials that are (or at least should be) in almost every workshop to make an excellent tool for sharpening knives evenly.

Initially, the master wanted to buy a ready-made knife sharpener in China (namely, in the Aliexpress online store), but he thought why not try to make such a sharpener himself with his own hands. Moreover, the prices for this product from Chinese friends are rather big.

For self-manufacturing you will need the following materials and tools:
1. Ordinary board;
2. Sandpaper;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Hammer;
5. Thick electrode 1 piece;
6. Electric jigsaw;
7. A piece of laminate;
8. Bolts and nuts;
9. Wooden handle;
10. Hex key;
11. Fluoroplast or textolite (glass fiber).

Let's get down to actually making the sharpener.
To begin with, take an ordinary board and cut a piece out of it. Then it is necessary to process the resulting wooden blank, namely, to grind it with sandpaper.

It will serve as the basis of our homemade grinding tool.
In terms of size, it turns out that we have 26 cm in length, the width of the blank turned out to be 6.5 cm, and the height of the wooden base is 2 cm.

Also in this board you need to make holes. In total, this part of the future product will have 6 through holes. We drill 2 holes for the rack itself (more on that later). Next, we drill another hole of a smaller diameter, and also drill 3 more holes on the other side of the board, which will serve to fasten the pressure plate.

We insert nuts into the holes made.

In the future, these nuts can be put on glue so that they do not fall out, but so far everything seems to be quite tight anyway.
Then we will be engaged in the manufacture of the guide rack itself. Her master made from an ordinary thick electrode. It needs to be folded in half. Further, with the help of a hammer, the author beat off the entire upper part from the welding electrode and polished it. By the way, you can grind with an ordinary screwdriver. To do this, simply insert the electrode into the chuck of the screwdriver and, holding the sandpaper in your hand, grind the product.

At this stage, the workpiece obtained from the electrode (guide post) is inserted into these two holes.
We insert not at a right angle, but at a slight slope. The guide angle is anywhere from 65 to 70 degrees.

Everything sits down quite tightly, but also for greater reliability of our design, in the future it will be possible to put the guide post on epoxy glue, or on some other glue, or on something else.

But perhaps the master is mistaken and this is not fluoroplast. Fluoroplast is most often white and some kind of slippery. Most likely it is textolite or fiberglass. But in fact, it's not that important. The main thing is that this material is quite hard and does not wear off.
From this piece (fluoroplast or not fluoroplast), the author sawed out a kind of pressure plate. He made holes in it, as well as small holes, so that the hats went a little deeper into the plate.

Then we put this plate on the previously made wooden base. Fasten with screws.

The author took the screws with a hex key. The craftsman also made a small hole in the base of the future knife sharpener so that this key would always be in this sharpener.

The whole thing is clamped and they (the screws) are actually not visible on the plate.
But here, the master did not do the secret, since the sharpening part of the tool will not touch this screw.

Further, the author made such a plate from the same fluoroplast.

In this plate, I made 2 holes for the same hex screw.
Further, the whole thing is put here and pressed with the help of a lamb.

Then the master made just such a guide for grinding stones.

The length of the guide is 57 cm. Its author made it from an ordinary steel bar. Also cleaned it up. And on one of the ends I put just such a handle (it seems to be from an old Soviet file).

You can also strengthen this connection by planting wooden handle from the file to the glue, but she went in here quite tightly herself, nothing falls out.

Regarding the attachment of the sharpening stones themselves. The author took a small piece of the clamp, cut it off and made holes. As a result, we got these corners, two of the same.

And here I put a nut with threaded threads and a clamping screw.

The master also put a spring on the guide so that you can change the grinding stones without unscrewing the nut with the clamping screw.

The sharpening stones themselves, or rather the base for these stones, were made by the author from an ordinary piece of laminate. Just cut it into strips.

The width of the strips is 2.5 cm, and the length is about 20 cm.

There are already ready-made grooves on the pieces of laminate, in fact, where the corners of the guide part of the device will become.
Then the author pasted the sandpaper on the pieces of laminate with double-sided tape and signed which one where. And, in fact, this is how it all happened:

The whole thing is set up quite easily. With the groove of the laminate, we get into one corner of the guide, and with the second corner, with the help of a spring, we press the grindstone.

All. Nothing falls out. Everything is flat and pretty tight.
Let's continue to collect further our device. We insert the guide with the grinding stone fixed on it into the hole prepared in advance for it, and you can safely begin the process of sharpening the knife.

The move is quite large due to the fact that here the author removed a small chamfer on both sides.

Every housewife at least once in her life faced with the fact that her knives were blunt in the kitchen, with which she usually cuts bread, butchers meat or cuts vegetables. Using such knives is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous, because the blade can break off the product and injure you. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically undermine the tool with the help of special devices. In stores, such devices are presented in a huge assortment, but for certain reasons they do not suit consumers. In such a situation, a do-it-yourself knife sharpener can be made. It is, in principle, easy to find drawings and diagrams for work, and we will provide detailed master classes in this article.

What conditions must be observed when sharpening knives?

Do you know how to sharpen knives properly? In fact, there are a number of rules, following which you can achieve the perfect result.

The necessary conditions look like this:

• For long and efficient operation When sharpening knives, it is necessary to pay maximum attention to the angle between the edges of the blade. During sharpening, it is imperative to restore the initially set angle so that it meets technological standards and allows you to cut products quickly, efficiently, freely.
• It is necessary to choose the optimal angle for each blade. So, for example, a scalpel or razor should have an angle of 10-15 degrees, devices for cutting fruits, bread and vegetables - 15-20 degrees. Knives for working with hard materials need to be sharpened at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
• It is quite difficult to sharpen the blade without a special device. Holding the knife only with your hands, it is difficult to provide the desired angle of inclination. So it is precisely to facilitate this process that there are sharpeners.

In fact, a do-it-yourself knife is made as easy as shelling pears, because all such devices have a simple design and it will not take you a lot of time to create them.

Varieties and manufacture of stones for sharpening

There are a large number of stones for turning knives on the market, but the most popular of them are the following types:

• Water tools. Working with them necessarily involves the use of water, thereby saving the surface of the stones.
• Oil stone. It is very similar in shape and structure to water, the only difference is that its surface is a little oily.
• Natural stones. They are produced from natural materials, previously undergoing industrial processing.
• artificial tools. They are made from non-natural ingredients.
• rubber devices. They are no less common on sale, but working with them is extremely inconvenient.

Before you make a knife sharpener in the form of an abrasive bar, you need to purchase several rectangular glass plates 4-5 mm thick.

Then make the sharpener according to the scheme:

1. Using double-sided tape, stick sandpaper of different grits on the surface of the plates.
2. Tighten the nuts carefully so that the glass does not crack.

Important! During the operation of such a device, water is not used, which is why the abrasive wears out quickly enough.

When sharpening knives with an abrasive bar, too sharp movements should be avoided, otherwise it will overheat and the blade will lose its useful properties.

Products for sharpening knives made of wooden blocks

Making a sharpener from two abrasive and two wooden blocks is quite simple, the main thing is that the raw materials are the same size.

You will need to do the following:

• Carefully sand the wooden blocks with sandpaper, remove all burrs.
• Pre-mark the bars, taking into account the required angle of inclination.
• Attach a stone to the resulting line, on both sides wooden block note its width.
• Make cuts according to the markings on the wooden workpiece.

Important! Make sure that their depth does not exceed 1.5 cm.

• Insert the abrasive stones into the recesses obtained so that they coincide with the grooves.
• Bolt whetstones, attach a piece of rubber from below.

Do-it-yourself knife from mounting corners

Use this master class to get a high-quality do-it-yourself knife sharpener. Drawings can be taken on the Internet.

Tools and materials needed for work:

• Metal plates 4 by 11 cm.
• Aluminum corners standard size.
• Metal rods 15 cm long.
• Grinding machine with vise.
• Needle file.
• A set of bolts and nuts.
• File.

Make a sharpener according to these instructions:

1. Make markings according to the drawing for the holes in the plates.
2. Drill holes, cut threads.
3. Round sharp edges and corners with a file.
4. Make holes in the corner according to the diagram.
5. Expand the needle support with a needle file.
6. Cut the threads in the holes for the studs.
7. Insert the rods into the extreme holes, fix them with nuts.
8. Screw the bolt into the widest hole with the nut pre-threaded onto it.
9. Insert bolts for clamping the knife into the remaining holes.
10. Screw the nuts onto the ends of the rods, lay the corner on top to fix the nuts.
11. Assemble a device to hold the sharpening stone from a thin metal rod, a wing nut and two holders.

Important! Such a sharpener can have the widest range of pressure angle degrees, it is incredibly convenient in terms of operation.

Making an electric knife sharpener at home

Do-it-yourself electric knife sharpener is made a little more complicated, because the device itself has a complex design.

Prepare the following materials and devices:

• Vacuum cleaner.
• Plan washer.
• Electrical engine.
• Stanin.
• Fencing.

Do the work, strictly following the scheme.

Often, ordinary abrasive bars are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since with the wrong angle for sharpening, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have the proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.

Rules for sharpening knives

The layout of the bar relative to the blade

Before you start making a homemade device for sharpening knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experts. At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the angle between the working part of the blade and the bar. This can be done individually for each model.

The knife should be located strictly perpendicular to the direction of the bar. The angle in this case can be equal to half the sharpening. This is due to the fact that grooves are formed on the surface of the blade during processing. They appear due to the action of abrasive components. With the minimum graininess of the tools, they will be insignificant. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.

In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:

• the average sharpening angle is 20-25 degrees;
• processing is performed from the beginning of the blade;
• to control the sharpening angle, you can paint over part of the blade with a marker. In this way, the actual area of ​​influence can be controlled.

It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when doing sharpening with your own hands, the “report point” should be the bluntest part of the knife.

The resulting grooves due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition for proper sharpening.

The choice of whetstones for sharpening knives

Blades for sharpening knives

The main component of a homemade sharpening machine will be a bar. This is an abrasive material that, when exposed to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.

The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing, reduce the likelihood of defects.

To sharpen knives with your own hands, you will need the following types of bars:

• high graininess. With their help, primary processing takes place, the shape of the blade is corrected;
• medium grit. They are designed to remove the grooves formed during the first operation;
• whetstone or leather belt rubbed with GOM paste. This stage is called polishing or finishing the blade.

The main task of drawing up a design diagram is the correct location of the bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.

For sharpening ordinary kitchen knives, two types of whetstones will suffice - with high and medium grit. Additionally, they will need a donkey.

Simple version of the machine

Simple knife sharpening machine

The simplest version of the machine design is two pairs of wooden slats connected to each other with adjustable screws. A bar is attached between these components.

The main condition in the manufacture of this design is stability. During operation, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the bar, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.

Despite the ease of manufacture with your own hands, this machine has several disadvantages:

• the blade is set manually relative to the stone. During prolonged work, it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle;
• an additional fixing unit is required. Since the design must be stable, it is researched to fix it rigidly on the desktop;
• during operation, the screeds can loosen, thereby changing the location of the bar.

The main advantage of this scheme is the ease of fabrication. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. As additional components, you will need a touchstone.

The thickness of the wooden slats can be different. In fact, for the independent manufacture of such a design, you can use any materials at hand.

Manual sharpening machine with bar adjustment

Sharpening machine with the ability to adjust the position of the bar

To achieve the best result, it is recommended to take the drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.

The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is attached. IN vertical position screw stand is installed. A strap with a slot is attached to it. The sharpening stone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.

Features of the operation of a machine of this type:

• sharpening angle is set with high accuracy. Its change depends on the thread pitch of the rack;
• instead of a bar, you can use sandpaper. For this, the base is made of plexiglass. A hole is made along it for installation on a guide rod. Sandpaper is glued to the surface of the plexiglass;
• the support base is best made wide. This will make it possible to fix it with clamps on any countertop.

The main problem with this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This can affect the speed of work if several types of knives are being processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.

To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of the chipped particles of the bar on the blade.

Sharpening machine with knife position adjustment

Alternative knife sharpening machine

An alternative manufacturing option for the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is in many ways similar to the one described above, but much easier to manufacture.

A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second - adjustable. By changing the distance between the clamps, you can adjust the angle of sharpening.

The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.

In addition to the above schemes, there are a lot of grinding machines that you can do yourself. When choosing the optimal model, one should proceed from the actual availability of improvised materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.

To get acquainted with the manufacturing features, it is recommended to watch the thematic video material, which describes in detail the machine for sharpening knives with your own hands:

Do-it-yourself knife sharpener drawings. Knife sharpener Lansky drawing. How to make a Lansky knife sharpener. I needed a knife sharpener. Mostly out of curiosity, what kind of animal it is and what it is with. I can sharpen any knife with my hands, but the convenience, and the need for which device in the household should be clarified. Searching the Internet, I found several suitable designs. The simplest and most famous of all was the LANSKY knife sharpener. Any person can sharpen a knife on such a device without special knowledge and skills. It is enough to understand the principle, but it is elementary and any knife will be razor sharp.

As it turned out, Lansky's sharpener is quite expensive pleasure. 1400 rubles minimum for basic set from a clamp, three stones and a jar of oil. The photo is shown below.

Cursed greed: They ask for a lot of money for a sharpener, and there are three pieces of iron bent at the knees, two screws, and a few pebbles. The hucksters are real.  Additional sharpening stones can be purchased separately, but not up to them yet.

A sharpener seems to be needed, but I don’t want to pay money for it at all. Therefore, it must be done by yourself. I carefully examined the design of the Lansky sharpener, and came to the conclusion that there are no problems to make such a piece of iron at home from improvised materials.

The principle of operation of the sharpener is very simple and can be seen in the picture. With the translational movements of the grinding stone, we form a smooth cutting edge on the blade of a knife fixed in the jaws of a special clamp. By successively changing the grinding stones with coarse grain to fine and very fine, we bring the knife to razor sharpness. stone movement

By rearranging the guide from the grinding stone in the holes in the terminals, you can get several sharp sharpening angles on the cutting edge. But since the cutting edge of the knife can be fixed at different distances from the jaws of the clamp, the sharpening angles float. And they are, in fact, close to necessary. This in turn affects the cut of the knife, but only slightly that the user does not notice the difference, so you can close your eyes to the floating of the angle.

After rummaging through the bins of the Internet, I found drawings of clamping jaws. I redrawn it in a more readable form and converted all sizes to millimeters, since Lansky's sharpener is made in the USA, and there, as you know, they use an inch, and not metric system. Everything is pretty simple.

I drew in detail my own design of a clamp for a grindstone on a computer. And did the detailing. This design has a number of advantages. Sharpening stones can be different lengths, the pebble can work alternately with four sides, and not one like Lansky's branded stones, which affects the sharpening time. The greasy side of the whetstone can be quickly changed to a clean one, and the Lansky stones will have to be cleaned.

I bought a hairpin with an M6 thread in a store, it cost 20 rubles per meter rod, sawed off a 160 mm long hairpin with a hacksaw and processed the ends with a file, removing burrs.

The guide was made from an electrode for manual electric welding, I asked for it in the welding shop, they gave me several pieces without any problems. Also, electrodes can be bought on the construction market, they are sold by the piece, they cost mere pennies, they give 3-5 rubles apiece. The brand of the electrode is not important, the main thing is a straight, elastic, smooth and thin cylinder. He hammered the flux with a hammer and lightly cleaned it with sandpaper, removing burrs and flux residues. I bent the letter G with the help of pliers and sawed off the excess with a hacksaw, according to the drawing.

Taking advantage of his official position, he ran to the machine shop, rummaged in a box with scraps of metal, since there are a lot of scraps, found pieces of iron that were suitable in size, made of some kind of raw carbon steel, type steel 3. Sawed off to size with a hacksaw for metal, processed the burrs with a file, and marked the centers of the holes. Using drilling machine, drilled holes in the clamps and then cut the threads with a hand tap, remembering to add a drop of machine oil to the hole to reduce friction. I sawed the steps on the clamps with a hacksaw and adjusted them with a file, after which I polished the surfaces of the clamps on sandpaper.

I washed the glands in soapy water, thereby getting rid of the remnants of oil and shavings on the thread, dried it and heated it over the flame gas stove, zavoronil in liquid engine oil. Used for this event a "fishing rod" made from an electrode for manual welding and a piece of steel wire found in wire stocks. Clamps were used as "bait". Each detail was burnished separately. I cleaned the threads from oil residues with a long bolt and thoroughly washed the finished parts in soapy water.

I twisted together, according to the drawing, the clips and the hairpin, not forgetting to drop a drop of nail polish (I stole the vial from my wife), into the connection of the left clip and the hairpin. So that the hairpin does not spontaneously unwind, and eliminate play. After the varnish had dried, I inserted the donkey between the clamps, carefully tightened the nut and aligned the guide pin along the bottom plane of the stone.

At the nearest construction site, I found a piece of an ordinary metal corner with a shelf width of 90 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. However, such iron can be bought on the construction market or found at the nearest construction site. If you politely ask, they will saw off blanks to size for a small fee or "liquid" currency. Such goodness is also in bulk at construction waste dumps, at scrap metal collection points you can be asked to give way for a small amount of money, that is, finding suitable blanks is not a problem.

I redrawn the original dimensions of the Lansky sharpener for the corner 90x90x6 mm. Since I already had an M6 tap at my disposal, I replaced the thread in the original Lansky clamp with an M6 thread for my sharpener. The uniformity of the dimensions of fasteners reduces the cost of manufacturing the structure. In addition, there were small stocks of M6 screws for an Allen socket of a suitable size.

And I drew the entire assembly assembly and drew a 3D model of the sharpener in detail on a computer. Here's what happened

Having filed the corners with a grinder, processed the cuts with a file from burrs and cleaned the surfaces of paint with a metal brush and sandpaper. I leveled the planes from irregularities with a file and put sandpaper on a piece of chipboard and brought out the ideal plane. I marked and drilled holes in the horizontal shelves, according to the drawing. With the help of a grinder and a file, I grinded off the bevels on the sponges so as not to interfere with the movement of the grindstone. Carefully sanded the marks with sandpaper. I removed the radii in the corners with a file. I found a long bolt and an M10 wing nut in stocks of fasteners.

I marked and drilled holes in the vertical shelves. On the outer side of the corner, using a large-diameter drill, he removed large chamfers, and bored the holes with needle files to an elongated groove.

I scrolled the holes in the sponges and cut the M10 thread under the rack. The stand will serve as a large bolt with a nut. For this bolt, the entire system will be mounted in a desktop vise. A tightened nut on the strut will prevent the structure from turning and play.

Gathered everything together, fixed the knife, everything, you can use it.

After a few days of operation, I made minor adjustments to the design of the terminals. I drilled a couple of holes in the side planes and cut the M6 ​​thread. Inserted spare screws into these holes. Knives come in different thicknesses, and the sharpener guide catches the screws. Having selected short screws from the stock of fasteners, he screwed them into place in the terminals. The stock pocket does not pull and is always at hand.

On occasion, I got hold of a wing nut with an M6 thread. With such a nut, it is more convenient and faster to tighten the grinding stones on the stud.

For complete set I will buy whetstones of various grain sizes. They are not expensive, from 20 to 50 rubles apiece, they are sold on any construction market or collapse. Again, you can use Lansky's branded stones.

It remains to find a suitable box for storing the sharpener. Gift tin and plastic boxes made of sweets or cookies, which are quite widely represented in pastry shops, are suitable for this role. Finding the right one isn't hard. Goodies to gobble up for the end of creating a sharpener, and the jar is in business. In order for the sharpener not to hit the walls in the jar, the stones do not deteriorate, it is useful to glue pieces of dense fabric or thin foam rubber onto the walls and bottom. Or cut grooves in a piece of plywood and pack all the iron and pebbles into them.

The sharpener is on my desk, and I spent the least amount of money, mostly on whetstones. We can say that I paid only for the donkeys, but for the M6 ​​threaded stud.

I don’t see any point in paying our huckster-sellers. The sharpener is done for several hours, half a day maximum, and then only because the paint dries for a long time.

In online stores, which is much cheaper than in regular stores, the Lansky sharpener costs at least 1,400 rubles. And here is almost a useful device.

Of course, the Lansky sharpener has a number of drawbacks, such as a limited number of sharpening angles, which are slightly offset by the position of the cutting blade relative to the clamp, and the high cost of a branded product. These shortcomings are relatively easy to eliminate at home with an elementary plumbing tool, ingenuity and a little free time.

During the production of the clip, when the terminals were almost ready, I was presented with a real Lansky sharpener. So, in a homemade device, the need has disappeared. Thanks KonstP. Terrible revenge, for this irresponsible element, was in the form of a delicious dark beer.

During the production of the terminals, I came up with a simpler and more functional design of the knife clamp, but more on that in the next chapter of the Notes.

The surface finish of the terminals is far from perfect, since there was no task to set up a marafet. The product can be painted, since there is paint in the can.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpeners: types and drawings

Every housewife sooner or later begins to dull the knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or butchers meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. At any time, it can break off the cut product and cause injury. Therefore, periodically the tool should be sharpened, using a special device for sharpening knives.

Such sharpeners in a wide range are available in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of stones for sharpening, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - prerequisites

For efficient and long-lasting knife operation the most important factor when sharpening it is blade angle. In the process of sharpening, it is necessary to restore the previously set angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

For each blade, its optimal angle is selected:

• for a razor and a scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10-15 degrees;
• knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15-20 degrees;
• multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
• hunting and hiking knives - at an angle of 25-30 degrees;
• knives for cutting hard materials - at 30-40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the right angle. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to provide required angle of inclination cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the production itself will take not so much time.

DIY knife sharpeners

There are many types of sharpeners for knives, among which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

• a bar of abrasive material;
• stop for attaching a knife.

As a bar, you can use ready-made special stones or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

On sale you can find several types of stones:

Aquatic tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

Oil the stone resembles water in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.

Natural instruments are made from natural stones undergoing industrial processing.

artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working on them is not very convenient.

For self-production of an abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates and a thickness of 4-5 millimeters. On the surface of the plates with the help of double-sided tape, you need to stick sandpaper of different grain sizes. The cost of such bars will turn out to be quite small, and sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very carefully tighten the nuts. otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used in its application, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, fast movements should be avoided, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to loss of blade properties.

Tool for sharpening wood blocks

It is enough just to make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpener to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber .

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting brackets

The Lansky sharpener is taken as the basis for such a device, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

• metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
• standard aluminum corners;
• metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
• a set of nuts and bolts;
• grinder with a vise or file;
• file.

Instead of a grinder, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding sharp corners from the corners and cleaning the places where the metal is cut.

Steps for making a sharpener:

1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
2. Holes are drilled and threaded into them.
3. With the help of a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded with a needle file.
6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
7. The rods are inserted into the extreme holes and fixed with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
8. An M8 bolt is screwed into a wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is strung, which is fixed with nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, it will be possible to adjust the sharpening angle.
11. From a thin metal rod in the shape of the letter G, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut, a device is assembled that will hold the stone for sharpening. The end holder must be through hole under the needle

Such a device for sharpening knives has a fairly wide range of degrees of pressure angle and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can simulate a knife sharpener from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife sharpener is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod is placed on the side. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools with high quality.

Required materials and tools:

The angle of sharpening on such a device adjustable with bar and lamb. which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing a suitable option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

Knife sharpener - essential tool on the farm

IN household there are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. In the course of work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives - planes to the workshop, but money is spent on this, and extra time is wasted. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool with their own hands.

Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness higher than 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a tool for sharpening knives or other household utensils in the store. Save time, but spend a lot of money - good sharpening is expensive.


By the way, there are different opinions about the name of the tool for sharpening knives. Emery, touchstone, whetstone, whetstone, musat ...

Can these definitions refer to the same object, or different products? About this, and how to make such a device yourself, we will tell in the article.

Since the advent of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), people have been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages, it was easy.

Homemade knife sharpener made by hand. The knife cuts paper like a razor! Simple design available to make at home.

Soft metals were ruled by any stone. With the advent of steel blades, special rocks were used for sharpening, usually of volcanic origin.

Some of them are still used today: the American "Arkansas" and the Japanese "water stone". These are expensive devices, so most craftsmen use artificial emery.

A simple whetstone can sharpen both the knife and the cutting edge of the planer. However, the quality leaves much to be desired.

The golden rule of sharpening: Each blade has its own edge angle, and it should not change along the entire length.

This principle lies in the design of all grinding devices. By following this rule, you can independently manufacture such a device.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device - drawings, varieties

In order for the edge of the blade to be processed evenly, several conditions are necessary:

1. Blade fixation, at the same time reliable, and without undue stress. Metal must not be damaged in a vice
2. Setting a specific angle for the bar. When moving along the edge of the knife, the angle should not change
3. Possibility to set different sharpening angles. You can process various tool, and some types of knives have a stepped structure.

Device for linear sharpening with a bar

For manufacturing you will need:

• Plywood or laminated chipboard
• Full length threaded steel stud, diameter 6-8 mm
• A bar of textolite or ebonite. Can be replaced with solid wood - beech, oak
• Aluminum plate 3-5mm thick
• Fasteners - bolts, nuts (wing nuts are better)
• Neodymium magnet from an old computer HDD.

We assemble a frame from plywood, resting on the legs at an angle of 15 ° -20 °. In the part below, we twist a hairpin 30-40 cm long. For strength, you can fix the thread with glue or sealant.


We fix an aluminum plate in the middle of the working surface. First, we make a groove in it, according to the diameter of the fixing bolt. Why aluminum? In order not to damage the steel blade of the knife.

We make a lever for fixing emery. It is assembled from the rest of the hairpin. We cut out bar holders from two textolite bars. On one side, the stop is fixed with a nut.


From the side of the handle it is more convenient to make a spring-loaded block - for a quick change of emery.

We use home-made bars as the main element - we glue sandpaper with different grain sizes on an aluminum plate. Such devices are easily fixed in the lever.


The design feature is a hinge with two degrees of freedom. It is assembled from two identical textolite bars. One is screwed onto a vertical stud, and serves both as a horizontal rotary axis and as a lever support height regulator (this is how the sharpening angle is set).

The second bar, with a horizontal hole for the lever, is screwed to the first. This ensures free movement of the lever vertically.


The knife can be clamped with a plate, or mounted on a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse emery, the blade should be firmly fixed.

For finishing, you can install the blade on a magnet and sharpen with little effort. The horseshoe of the magnet should be sunk flush with the table top, and glued with epoxy glue.


Homemade fixture ready to sharpen knives. We set the required angle of attack, and sharpen the edge with smooth movements along the blade.

The same principle is used in the device for sharpening knives on an electric grinder.

Electric emery not only speeds up work, but also allows you to get a high-quality concave blade edge profile. This is the so-called fuller sharpening. It will not work to get such a shape on a linear bar, therefore these two devices do not replace, but complement each other.

Important! If, when working with a manual sharpening device, you completely control the intensity of the process, then the high speed of rotation of the emery wheel can ruin the knife.

From friction, the metal on the tip heats up, hardening occurs. Steel loses its hardness and grinds with torn edges. Another problem is that a “released” knife quickly loses its sharpness. Therefore, the electric sharpener should be handled with care. Bring the blade for a short time, and take breaks to cool.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpener - video with explanations and an example of manufacturing

In this mode, it is difficult to maintain a constant angle, so fixing the knife is required.


The design is quite simple - along the axis of rotation of the emery there is a guide along which the carriage with the knife moves. The angle is maintained mechanically, and the force is determined by the operator.

The device is easy to do with your own hands - and it is not necessary to perform precise work on the processing of metal parts. The guide is made literally from the foot material.


On the workbench, next to the sharpener, guides are attached, with which you can change the distance from the knife stop to the rotating circle. This distance determines the angle of sharpening. The vertical rod must have a free movement up and down with a strong fixation of the position.


The knife is held horizontally, pressing against the stop. The force of contact with the emery is regulated directly during sharpening. The processing is symmetrical, you just change the side of the knife and sharpen at the same angle.


This method is only suitable for processing classic knives. Kitchen, hunting, tourist. Cutting planes of other tools require a different approach.

Design for sharpening knives, say jointer:


A specialized emery is used, with an end working surface. The guide for the carriage is placed at the bottom, away from the axis of rotation.

It is in this part of the disk that the abrasive is most effective. The guide with the cutting element is moved manually, the clamp is provided by the own weight of the knife.

Drawings of all structural elements are shown in the illustration.

This machine was used almost 100 years ago, and since then the technology has not changed. Ease of execution allows you to repeat the device in the home workshop. Any materials - metal, plastic, wood.


Instead of jointer cutting elements, it is possible to sharpen ice ax knives for winter fishing. Only the angle is more gentle. The scissor tool works the same way. The design (like the emery wheel) is significantly smaller in size.

To sharpen chisels and planer knives, you can also use electric emery and a fixing carriage. However, these tools are compact and can be handled by a mechanical fixture.

There are two equivalent ways - along the edge, and across. The processing quality is about the same, so you can not give preference to a particular device.
The factory product involves transverse straightening of the blade.


By analogy, we make a carriage from thick plywood. We use any rollers as guides, preferably in an amount of more than two. By moving the machine along the emery, you can give the tip of the chisel an ideal shape.


If you do not need serious sharpening, a simpler device is also suitable for small editing. Fasten a bar to the chisel with the required angle of inclination. Put emery and a piece of glass next to it. Apply soapy water to the glass.


The effectiveness of the device will pleasantly surprise you.

And for transverse sharpening - you can make an equally simple fixture. The guide is also a support. The blade is vertically mounted on the moving part. The only drawback is that the angle is fixed and is determined during manufacture.


True, unlike a knife, the deviation from the ideal is not so critical.

The same device is suitable for sharpening planer knives. Only because of the width of the blade, the process is quite laborious. Therefore, you can use an electric emery with an end working surface.

The emphasis is made of a wooden block. It is only necessary to provide a change in angle. The clamp is provided by the operator, and it is possible to perform semicircular sharpening - carpenters will appreciate this option.


Of course, with the same apparatus it is convenient to tidy up the edge of the chisel. Given the high performance, you will restore the tool even after serious chipping.

Homemade tool for sharpening knives and tools from a grinder

When you again manually rub a knife on an old donkey, remember this article and create a home-made sharpener for your home workshop.

Homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands: diagram, instructions, manufacturing features

Every man in the house will benefit from a convenient do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine. Indeed, often the owner is judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning bar or ready-made fixtures with an angular gap shape will be sufficient.

To adjust expensive hunting knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, which are based on a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe the manufacture of a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut have a negative effect on the cutting edge. For example, they are present on vegetables, paper. talking plain language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to keep the blade in the right position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists in unified, but at the same time quite laborious methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and calm.

The basic rule in this process is to maintain a precisely set constant angle. Strength is not required here. The main thing is that the bar and the blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant index, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the skill of sharpening. The angle indicator can be controlled using a conventional marker. They should paint over the carts and after several sharpening cycles, see how much the paint has survived. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not well processed.

If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then the blade should be sealed with adhesive tape so that only the edge for cutting remains open. Even if you unsuccessfully direct your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

It is also important that the direction of the blade along the bar is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. In fact, this is quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the bar can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will not be useful when cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge can break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two blade lengths. It is acceptable that the diamond bar be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of leading the blade beyond the device. This can damage its side surface or the blade.

Making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands

Homemade devices for sharpening knives are different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is the availability the right material and tool skills.

The principle of operation of such a device as manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a bar fixed at the right angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpener horizontally and holding the knife at just the right angle.

In order to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden rail, sandpaper and a pair of lamb bots. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off part of the material. So that the bar does not touch the holder when sharpening, it is necessary to clean its edge at an angle with emery.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top of the vertical rack, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle is chosen two times less than the one with which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives, it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, the drawings of which are obviously drawn up, involves the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the subsequent installation of the transverse support will affect the height indicator. After that, all the details are cut off, and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that fix the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the fixture, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is fixed with bolts.

Vertical posts are attached with screws. The moment that the load on the bottom is small is also taken into account. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal bar is attached in exactly the same way. The grinder is almost ready. It remains to make a bar.

For its manufacture, a rail is cut desired length. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive. To optimize the result, you can resort to the manufacture of several bars with different indicators grit. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. In order to protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. During operation, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine can also be of a different type. In this case, it is based on the M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts were used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Heat shrink tubing covers the thread. A pair of paper clips hold the rail stand at the correct height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is a beam, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen planer knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a planer or jointer has probably faced the problem of sharpening their knives. Buying new ones from time to time is expensive. Knives can be easily sharpened by hand. In this case, specialized machines or grinding stones are used. If the planer is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself planer knife sharpening machine

To sharpen the planer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in the garage or on the plot.

Many are interested in how to make a machine for sharpening knives with their own hands. To make a device, you need to find certain parts. Perhaps these parts are lying around in your shed or garage. They can also be purchased online.

The machine for sharpening planer knives with your own hands consists of:

First of all, you should find a faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. It is she who is responsible for the sharpening process. Jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate serves as a guarantor of complete and safe sharpening. This part will have to be bought new, but the rest can be used old.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find the engine, the power of which should be 1-1.5 kW. It is not necessary to buy it. Any will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone will surely have a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

The main steps in the manufacture of the device

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be comfortable.

For reliable protection, the faceplate is covered with a casing square shape with one cut corner. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

On the bottom surface of the table in the area of ​​sharpening, a hole is made of the same diameter as that of a vacuum cleaner hose. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is desirable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the motor under the faceplate base is optional. You can make sure that the parts are connected by means of a belt. In this case, the design will be complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, all cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a quality ice drill is a great pride. Often, true competitions are held on water bodies in terms of the speed of drilling ice holes. And victory does not always smile at young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported devices. There are times when seasoned fishermen equipped with simple Soviet-made tools are the winners in the competition. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct setting of the device. Beginner anglers, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye as their knives become blunt. The smallest grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional grinding machine. In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what is needed to make it?

For the manufacture of such a device as a machine for sharpening ice drill knives with your own hands, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But she is very hard to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the body of the device. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed against the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making the arc from the same steel strip, the pressure plate is bent, which serves as a lock for the sharpened knives.

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having pulled the body and pressure plate together with a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their fit to the surface of the end face of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives stand correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the arc of the body on both sides.

Sharpening knives is best done on an emery stone that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip your knives in the water more often. This will help prevent overheating of the steel.

Minus the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles of the cutting chamfer. But each manufacturer of ice drills offers its own models. In this case, a universal device will do.

Making a universal fixture for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows sharpening knives at any angle of the cutting edge. By smoothly changing the angle between the shoulders of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, it is possible to fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To manufacture this device, you need to find a door canopy with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the shoulders of the canopy. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

From a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm, a fixing plate is made with a slot for the fixing screw. The plate and screw are welded to the shoulders of the canopy.

It happens that sharpening of knives is carried out, the location of the holes of which does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the shoulders for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has more versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Attachments such as planers and thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. By means of them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. Knives of these devices, like any others, become dull. If you use them often, then the best way out is to sharpen the knives for the planer with your own hands. For the manufacture of grinding equipment at home, you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.

The knife holder can be made from a wooden block. Having made cuts at 45 degrees with a circular saw, you can sharpen knives with a band saw. grinder or a large bar. If the latter is not present, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.

Knife holders can be made from improvised materials. The optimal solution will use metal corners, which have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be equal to 45 degrees. Using screws, you can fix the knives with a second corner.

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