Do-it-yourself tray: choice of material, tips for making and decorating. Wooden tray with handles DIY handmade wooden tray

This elegant and functional item can be made in a couple of weekends. wood with beautiful pattern, for example, wavy maple, will give the tray an extra appeal.

Make the handles first

1. From a 25 mm cherry board, cut out four blanks of the indicated length for the halves of the temples A (Fig. 1 And photo A)(Read the "Craftsman's Tip" below to properly orient the workpieces in relation to the grain direction of the wood.) If you keep the original shape of the parallelogram for the blanks, the next step will be easier.

Mark out the handle blank as shown, with the grain of the wood running diagonally. We have oriented the squares at a 30° angle, but the angle may vary depending on the width of the board and the direction of the fibers in it.

The temples will be strong if the fibers converge at the top. Distribute the blanks for the halves of the temples A in pairs and choose the most attractive combinations. Orient the fibers in each pair so that at the junction they form a triangle, the apex of which is directed upwards, as in the left shackle. Mark each pair by placing appropriate marks at the seam so that they line up for final gluing. The right bow is glued from halves, the fibers of which converge at the bottom. Such a shackle will be fragile, since the fibers are directed across the section in several places, and it may break during assembly or when using the tray.

It is difficult to saw end grains, so 51 mm deep grooves are best done in several passes. Firmly press the workpiece with the pusher against the longitudinal stop of the machine.

2. Install a 10 mm thick slotted disc in the saw machine and make halves in one of the ends of each workpiece A groove (Fig. 1 And photo B). For reliable support of workpieces, fix a high wooden overlay on the longitudinal (parallel) stop of the machine. After sawing the grooves, saw the blanks to a square shape with a side of 114 mm.

3. From wood of a contrasting color (we chose wavy maple), cut out a 114 × 305 mm blank for dowels IN, two blanks 51×483 mm for longitudinal walls WITH and two blanks 51×330 mm for end walls D. Plane these blanks on a thicknessing machine, adjusting their thickness to the width of the grooves sawn into the blanks of the halves of the temples (Fig. 1 And 2). Set aside the wall blanks and saw out the dowels of the indicated sizes. Glue two blank handle-arms, connecting each pair of halves A using a key inserted into the grooves.

With the workpiece flat, raise the saw blade so that it only passes through the inner wall of the tongue without touching the other wall.

4. When the glue is dry, carefully align the bottom edge of each piece A/B and in four passes cut out a tongue with a section of 10 × 51 mm (Fig. 1a). Saw off a part of the tongue wall from the inside to a width of 12 mm (photo C).

5. Using a compass, mark on the workpieces A/B outer and inner radii (Fig. 1). Also mark the centers of the screw holes on the outside of each piece. Make counterbores with a mounting hole in outer wall sheet piles. band saw or with an electric jigsaw, carefully saw out the handles along the contour, grind them to the final shape, and then mill 6 mm rounds on the edges. Finish the handles with #220 sandpaper.

Tray making

1. Take the blanks of longitudinal and end walls sawn earlier and planed to the required thickness C, D. Position them as they will be glued and mark each one for later processing and final assembly. Saw out at the bottom edge of each workpiece on the inside a tongue, the width of which corresponds to the thickness F (Fig. 2).

2. Tilt the saw blade at a 45° angle and file the bevels at the ends of the longitudinal WITH and end D walls, giving them the final length (Fig. 2).

When sawing narrow grooves on the bevels, guide the wall blank with a transverse (angular) stop, and the longitudinal stop will serve as a limiter. This operation is safe, as the cut will not be through.

3. Without changing the position of the saw blade, make on the bevels of the longitudinal and end walls C, D 5 mm deep cuts for dowels (Fig. 2, photoD).

Brief advice! For these narrow keyways, it is best to use a 50-tooth combination saw blade with variable bevel cut and flat-top teeth that form a flat bottom cut that does not require reworking.

4. From cherry wood, make a 51 × 305 mm blank for dowels E and cut it to a thickness of 3 mm, adjusting it to the width of the cuts in the walls C, D. Cut the dowels to the required length so that they fit snugly into the corresponding cuts. (Fig. 2).

5. Cut out the bottom F and file its corners so that the dowels can be inserted E (Fig. 3). Dry collect the tray C-F to check and adjust all connections. Finish sanding inner sides walls C, D and both sides of the bottom F sandpaper number 220.

6. Assemble the tray C-F by applying glue to the keyways, the bevels and the tongues to insert the bottom. After drying thoroughly, sand the edges and outer surfaces with #220 sandpaper.

final assembly

1. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the inside walls of the tongues of one of the shackle handles A and put it on the end wall D aligned exactly in the middle. Drill 1.6x20mm pilot holes for the screws by gluing a bit of masking tape to the drill to act as a depth gauge. Then fix the shackle with screws (Fig. 2). Wipe off excess adhesive with a damp cloth. Install the second handle in the same way.

2. Using a 6mm cork drill, make maple plugs and glue them into counterbores to cover the screw heads. When the glue is dry, cut off the protruding parts of the end caps flush and sand smooth.

3. Apply a finishing coat. We used a natural formulation (called Danish Oil) to bring out the iridescent pattern of the Corrugated Maple, and then applied three coats of a water-based semi-gloss polyurethane varnish to provide a durable barrier against moisture and dirt.

In this article we will tell you how to make an unusual wooden tray- a pallet, which is convenient to use for decorating a festive table.

Materials and tools for making a wooden tray:
16 thin sticks for mixing paint
light stain or matte varnish (optional)
hot glue gun




How to make an original wooden tray
Pre-coat the planochki with stain or matte varnish. You need to choose a color so that the tree looks as natural as possible.


Glue the two planks together. If there are inscriptions on the planks, it is advisable to glue them with these sides inward. Such blanks from two strips need to be made 3 pieces.
Connect three double planks with three crossbars. Use a hot glue gun to fix.

Spread the remaining seven strips evenly over the surface of the tray. Glue them on with hot glue.
Tip: if there are inscriptions on the planks, place them so that they are not visible.

That's all. A simple and stylish wooden tray is ready. It can be made even more authentic by using a burner to apply all sorts of carrier stamps and serial numbers, just like on real pallets.

This material is for romantics who like to arrange surprises and are not averse to having breakfast in bed or just having a snack while sitting on a soft sofa. We have already talked about how from, and now it's time to make a serving tray - and this time from wood. We have selected the easiest and most accessible methods, so you will not need carpentry talent.

Master class number 1. A tray from a photo frame for 1 evening

The easiest way to make a tray with your own hands is to convert an ordinary photo frame into it.

Buy or remove a wooden photo frame of the right size from the wall. Well, if you can find a frame with a strong bottom and secure fasteners, then you won't have to change the backing and you can update the decor of the tray according to your mood.

So let's get started. Remove the cardboard backing, remove all unnecessary and put the glass in place.

Now the cardboard from the photo frame needs to be decorated as you like. You can stick or simply apply decor from various materials. It can be: bright fabric, a piece of wallpaper, postcards, yellowed pages, a herbarium, etc. In our master class, the substrate is simply covered with fabric and glued with a glue gun. Instead, you can use PVA or any other glue. After the decor is ready, put the substrate on the glass and fix it (scroll the photo to the right).

And now you need to fasten beautiful furniture handles of a suitable size. You can screw them either on the side or on top of the frame. To do this, you will need the actual handles, 4 screws, a drill with a small drill and, of course, a screwdriver. First you need to attach the handles to the frame, align them, then mark the holes with a pencil, drill them with a drill with a suitable drill bit and finally screw the handles onto the screws with a screwdriver as shown in the photo below.

Well, that's it, your serving tray is ready! Or… almost ready.

• For reliability and giving weight to our tray (so that it stands exactly on a soft surface), it is better to further strengthen it from below. To do this, you need to take plywood, attach a frame to it, circle it along the contour and cut it out with a jigsaw. The resulting workpiece must be sanded around the edges, and then painted in a suitable color (previously primed). Once the plywood is dry, all you have to do is attach the plywood to the frame with small screws, nails, self-tapping screws, or a furniture stapler. Such a tray will withstand even the heaviest breakfast in bed.

Based on this master class, you can make beautiful trays with a variety of decor. For example, you can make such a serving tray with a slate bottom, on which you can write romantic notes with chalk.

• The substrate can be painted with either slate paint or pasted over with chalk wallpaper.

And here are other decor ideas for both the frame itself and the substrate. As you can see, you can come up with the most different designs- in a vintage style like Provence or shabby chic, in classical style or in a modern way, using fabric, photographs, colored paper, wallpaper, pages from books (scroll the photo to the right).

Also, this master class will come in handy for making interior trays for magazines or magazines. dressing tables where candles and books, or jewelry, cosmetics and perfumes can find their place.

Master class number 2. Tray from the door of the kitchen set for 2 pm

You can make a serving tray with your own hands not only from a photo frame, but also from an old kitchen cabinet door, chest of drawers and other furniture. Such a tray is made a little longer, but it will be much more reliable, practical, durable and hold more goodies for breakfast!

The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove all loops.
2. We remove the old coating with coarse sandpaper.
3. At this stage outer part the tray, if desired, can be cleaned with a metal brush to remove soft fibers from the wood.

• this technique will make the surface of the door even more “old” and rough, but, on the other hand, the effect of dilapidation in the style of shabby chic and Provence can be achieved without it.

1. We clean the door and with it reverse side, we close the holes from the loops with wood putty or polyester putty. We also grind the patches a little and clean the entire door again. In principle, this step is not necessary if the holes from the fasteners do not bother you.
2. We cover a clean, dry door with a primer for wood in 1-2 layers. Each layer must dry thoroughly.
3. Now you need to take sandpaper again, but already of medium grain size and walk it over the entire surface.

1. Again we wipe the door clean and dry, and then we begin to paint our future tray. With a small brush (non-shedding!) We cover the surface with 1 layer of paint. And here it is necessary to note a couple of nuances:

• if you want to make a tray or, then the first coat of paint should be dark, and the second and third should be light;
• if you want to paint the bottom of the tray with slate paint as in this master class, then, before applying dark green paint, glue the bottom contour with masking tape (see photo above);
• if you don't have a brush, a clean cotton rag will do just fine.

1. When the first coat of paint is completely dry, cover the door with a lighter finish paint.

• To make a “chalky” tray at this stage (or after it), you need to apply, in fact, slate paint, first in 1 layer, giving it time to dry, and then 2 layers. After the 2nd layer dries, we again glue the borders of the slate bottom with tape and proceed to painting the door with the finishing paint (you can vice versa - first apply the finishing paint, wait until it dries, and only then apply the slate).

1. And now the tray surfaces need to be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, exposing a layer of dark paint in some places (again, if desired).
2. And, finally, we fasten the handles: mark the attachment points for them and tighten the screws. Voila, your breakfast in bed serving tray is ready!

By the way, if you painted the bottom with slate paint, as in this master class, then the resulting tray can be used not only as a serving tray with messages, but also as a board for menus and home notes.

And here are other ideas for making beautiful DIY trays from old wooden doors (swipe!).

DIY wooden tray, design drawings, detailed description and assembly order.

The design allows you to carry various objects in such a way that nothing rolls off it, thanks to the sides around the bottom perimeter. A carefully crafted wood product will suit any kitchen if it is designed in the same style.

The figure shows the details of the tray:

1. Cross border.
2. Longitudinal board.
3. Bottom.
4. Pen.
5. Wooden dowel 5 x 20 (mm).
6. Wooden dowel 5 x 25 (mm).
7. Wood screw 3 x 16 (mm).

Material for manufacturing: oak, beech or other types of wood that will fit well into the interior of the room.

Material size specification:

Cross side 10 x 25 x 340 (mm) - 2 (pcs.)
longitudinal side 10 x 25 x 440 (mm) - 2 (pcs.)
handle - 10 x 30 x 80 (mm) - 2 (pcs.)
bottom - 6 x 348 x 448 (mm) - 1 (pc.)

TRANSVERSAL BOARD

LONGITUDINAL BOARD

PEN

The transverse side and the handle can be made of different varieties tree.

Cut out from a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 6 (mm). Mark the center and drill through holes for the used countersunk head screws. From the back, drill holes with a large drill, the diameter of which should be equal to the diameter of the head of the screw used. Smooth out the sharp edges and apply a paint-and-lacquer decorative coating.

Manufacturing technology of a wooden tray:

1. We will prepare the necessary material.
2. Let's make all the assembly parts.
3. We connect the longitudinal and transverse sides into a spike for an adhesive joint. We fix the resulting frame, strictly observing a right angle between the sides. We will drill through holes Ø 5 (mm) in the corners. Insert wooden dowels 5 x 25 (mm) into the holes, on the glue.
4. In the grooves of the transverse beads, on the glue, insert the handles. Along the edges of the handles, from above, we will drill holes Ø 5 (mm), 20 deep (mm). Insert wooden dowels 5 x 20 (mm) into the holes, on the glue.

5. Carefully remove the squeezed out glue.
6. After the glue dries, we proceed to the finishing of the assembled tray frame:

Let's polish surfaces
smooth out sharp edges
apply wood preservative
cover the front surfaces with a paint-and-lacquer decorative layer

7. Fasten the bottom to the frame with wood screws.

We can easily afford breakfast in bed or a cup of coffee on the veranda if we create an elegant wooden tray with our own hands. A wooden tray is an indispensable item in the household, you can do it if you have the tools necessary for work and wooden materials. This type tray - convenient, practical and aesthetic, useful everywhere: in an apartment, in a country house or in country house. You will need some plywood, a cork backing and a few tips from the tutorial.

For work you will need:

• wood plywood 5 mm thick;
• wooden board 2 cm thick;
• square for measuring and marking;
• electric saw or bow saw - a sharp saw with guides for oblique cuts;
• end planer;
• vise;
• drill;
• pencil;
• grinding machine;
• dispersion glue for wood;
• hammer;
• small nails;
• matte water-based paint;
• tassel.

Let's get to work by preparing the above materials. We cut wooden plywood 5 mm thick into a rectangle 35 by 50 cm. wooden board cut into 4 parts: 2 sides and 2 handles of appropriate sizes. On a board 31 by 7 cm, using a ruler, we draw a future pen.

Using a drill and a round nozzle, we drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 cm, take a jigsaw to cut a hole and bevels on the upper side of the tray handle.

We apply the finished pen to the board and circle it with a pencil, this is necessary so that the second pen turns out to be the same size and shape. Sides size: 50 by 4 cm.

Finished parts must be sanded with fine sandpaper. We glue the details of the tray with dispersion glue for wood.

Clamp with a vise, remove excess glue with a dry cloth. Cut out the bottom and the rest of the details from the cork backing.

We knock together the bottom with the sides with small carnations. We glue the cork substrate with the same dispersion adhesive.

We put the tray under the press, it can be plastic bottles or a bucket filled with water. The final stage of work is the coating of the tray with matte water-based paint in two layers.