Manufacturing technology of paving slabs at home. We cast paving slabs with our own hands Casting tiles at home

The production technology of paving slabs is quite simple. You can perform it at home. For the manufacture of paving slabs, you will need fairly affordable equipment. Judge for yourself, the most expensive thing you will have to buy is a concrete mixer. The vibrating table can be made by hand. Tile molds will have to be bought, but they are not as expensive today as they used to be. good shape from high-quality material can be bought at a price of $ 1 per piece. The price of the form is determined by the quality of the material, the size and design style of the form itself. To complete the line, you need to purchase a picking shovel, a good metal bucket of 10 liters, flights that will be filled with finished tiles, rubber gloves for safe work. When you have a complete line for the production of paving slabs, you can purchase and deliver raw materials for production:

  • cement grade not lower than A-Sh-400;
  • plasticizer C-3;
  • pigment dye;
  • screening granite;
  • mold lubricant.

The production cycle itself can be divided into several stages:

  • preparation of plastic molds;
  • preparation of colored concrete;
  • vibrocasting process daily;
  • excerpt;
  • demoulding and new mold preparation.

Paving slabs are made according to a simple technological process

Preparing molds before manufacturing vibrocast products. Paving slabs are made on simple equipment:

  • vibrating table;
  • concrete mixer;
  • forms.

Here detailed instructions for the manufacture of concrete products by vibrocasting. At the beginning of the production cycle, it is necessary to prepare the molds for pouring. It is better to use plastic molds. The technology provides for the nuances in the molding and stripping of vibrocast products. Prior to manufacturing, we lubricate the molds with a special lubricant for high-quality stripping. Lubrication also extends the service life of molds up to 500 cycles and more. Lubricated forms are best washed after stripping before the next pour. This is also very important. For beginners, it is better to purchase a special lubricant. You can make your own lubrication if you wish. But here it is important to clearly guess with the proportions. Grease for plastic molds is done like this. 50 grams of engine oil should be diluted in 1.5 liters of water. It is necessary to shake such a mixture very well and for a long time. Experiment very carefully with the proportions of the lubricant. It is important for you to choose the perfect balance of fat content. Too much grease will ruin your entire batch. After a very greasy lubricant, shells are obtained in the tile. This paving slab is more like a shell. Weak fat content in the lubricant will not give the desired effect when demoulding. After lubricating the molds, concrete can be prepared.

Preparation of composite components for the preparation of concrete. Before cooking concrete mix it is required to prepare the concrete mixer itself. Rinse the nutria concrete mixer with a bucket of water. Be sure to pour out the water. The walls where the concrete will be mixed must be wet. For the manufacture of paving slabs, it is necessary to make half wet concrete. Its strength and the duration of exposure of products in the molds depend on this. Wet walls will mix the concrete composition better and will not allow the concrete mixer to be heavily clogged with mortar deposits. Next, prepare the plasticizer and concrete dye. The plasticizer should be 0.5% of the amount of all components of the solution in dry form. For 40 liters of concrete you will need 200g. plasticizer. In no case can not add a plasticizer in dry form. It must be cooked first. We dilute 200g. plasticizer in 1 liter hot water 70-80 degrees Celsius. The water must be hot so that the plasticizer dissolves well. In hot water from a measuring cup, chopping well, add plasticizer powder in small portions. It should not be allowed to precipitate; it should dissolve well. Next, we prepare the pigment dye for concrete. The percentage of dye should be at least 2% of all components in dry form. If you make quality paving slabs you can not save on dye. You should be able to saturated color concrete that will keep its shade for years. Pigment dye is quite expensive and many are trying to keep the cost of production by saving on plasticizer costs. But this approach is not justified. After a year or two, the tile will lose its color. Two years after the rain, wet tiles will look like new, but when dry, the color is almost invisible. To justify saving the dye, it is better to use the technology of pouring in two layers. Half fill the forms with colored concrete and immediately colorless. Such a tile will be even stronger. Only the intervals between filling the layers should not exceed 20 minutes. So you can save expensive dye by 2 times. Dilute 800 g of dye in a 3 liter jar with water at a temperature of 40-50 degrees. Just mix thoroughly and add in small portions. In no case should precipitation be allowed in the dye. This sediment can reject your tiles. A small lump of dye residue in the face of a tile makes a sink. So paving slabs can lose their presentation and strength due to poorly diluted dye. If the pigment dye is poorly diluted, it will not give the proper color for the tile.

The technological process of manufacturing vibrocast tiles. When our forms are lubricated, the plasticizer and pigment dye are diluted, the concrete mixer is moistened, we can nail the concrete. The manufacturing technology of paving slabs has its own characteristics for the preparation of concrete. This is the low composition of water. The strength of concrete products depends on the ratio of cement and water. It is only necessary to add more liquid by 30% and the concrete will lose its strength by 2 times. The tile mortar, as mentioned above, should be half wet (like wet earth). It may seem too dry to you, but as soon as it hits the vibrating table, it already seems too wet. This is the trick that awaits you in the process of making paving slabs. Therefore, we add water less than cement by 30% of the volume. It takes 2 buckets of water for 3 buckets of cement, and this is inclusive of plasticizer and dye. Such concrete is quite difficult to knead. To do this, you need to pre-moisten the concrete mixer. Well, now we turn on the concrete mixer and, first of all, fill in the measured portion of water while without dye and plasticizer. Then add a portion of cement and mix to get a homogeneous emulsion (people say milk). Then we add screenings and we already get a solution. Mix well and add pre-diluted components: plasticizer and dye. And we knead all this well until we get a homogeneous mass that is beautiful in color.

This semi-dry concrete recipe is intended for vibrocasting thin-walled concrete products or for the production of cinder blocks on a home-made machine.

When we have concrete ready, we fill in the forms and put them on the vibrating table. The number of molds on the table plays an important role in the intensity of the vibration. The table springs must not be too overloaded or too loose. Vibration should be in a certain intensity. As soon as you put the forms with concrete on the table and turn on the vibrating table, the magic begins. Dry concrete begins to turn into liquid. More and more space appears in the forms and more should be filled in. It seems that the forms on the vibrating table already contain liquid concrete, but if you turn the form over, its contents do not fall out, but stick tightly to the edges of the form - which means you are doing everything right. The duration of the vibration should last approximately 4-5 minutes. With proper vibration, do not turn off the vibrating table until white foam appears on the concrete in the forms. This indicates that all the air has come out of the concrete. Then remove the forms and take them to a room replaced from sun rays. The tile dries in just a day. This is helped by the low water content and the plasticizer, which is part of the tile. The plasticizer not only gives elasticity during formation, but also effectively dries and enhances the strength of the concrete product. The next day, you can do the stripping and you have a finished tile. She needs 5 days to rest before selling. This will give it maximum strength. Molds must be washed after stripping, even though they have been oiled. The concrete is so tenacious that it still leaves marks on the plastic molds. You can't wash them off with plain water. It is better to use a lot of salt. Prepare a high concentration saline solution in advance. So it is much easier and faster to wash plastic molds for paving slabs.

Calculation of profitability in the technology of manufacturing paving slabs

In order to produce 1 square meter of paving slabs, we need:
One bucket of A-Sh-400 cement - price per bucket $ 1.5
Three buckets of screenings - the price for three buckets is $ 0.4 (the cost of screenings for 4 tons with delivery = $ 32)
Plasticizer 200g. - price for 200g. $ 0.4 (price per bag of plasticizer 25kg = $ 47).
Pigment dye 400g. (subject to two-layer filling of forms color / colorless) - price $ 0.9 (bag of 30 kg = $ 62)
TOTAL: $1.5 + $0.4 + $0.4 + $0.9 = $3.2, and the cost of one square meter of colored paving slabs = $7.5.
The profitability of the business is 135%. Sufficiently tangible income is brought by the production technology of paving slabs. Of course, a certain percentage of culling is possible. But the marriage of such material will always find its application at a construction site. With such a profitability, you can give in to a competitive price under various conditions. For example, when ordering 1000 squares, a 30% discount. In colorless paving slabs, the level of profitability is at the same level. But it's harder to sell. Colorless tiles can be offered to create budgetary patterns when laying. Thus, you can save and embellish the tiling.

Equipment for the production of paving slabs and prices

To make paving slabs, you need to buy equipment.

Name Photo Price
Concrete mixer. The price depends on the volume in liters, on average $ 1.5 per liter. Concrete mixer 300 l. will cost $450. The larger the volume, the cheaper the price per liter.
Vibrating table. You can do it yourself, it will cost you $ 180 maximum. A new one will cost from $500. I highly recommend making a vibrating table with your own hands, there is nothing complicated.
Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs. Forms are best taken from good thick-walled plastic. The cost of such forms is from $ 1 per piece. For one square meter of rocky-shaped coverage, 25 pieces will be needed. And for the square of the “brick” shape, you need to buy 50 shapes. It all depends on the size of the tile.
Bucket. Shovel. Latex gloves. Available to everyone.

To calculate the payback period, we need the following indicators: equipment cost in dollars productivity square meters per day the cost of production in dollars per 1 sq.m. profitability in percent (%).

Calculating the payback period of a business is better to start with performance indicators

Let's say we want to produce 40 sq.m. tiles in the form of "rocky" per day. We will need a 300 liter concrete mixer (this will be about 6 mortar injections) worth $450. Homemade vibrating table $180. Forms 1 $ * 25 pieces per square meter "Rocky" * 40 sq.m. = 1000$. Bucket, shovel, rubber seals = $20. The total cost of purchasing equipment is $1000 + $450 + $180 + $20 = $1650. The selling price of forty squares of the finished product will be 40 square meters. * $7.5 (price per 1 sq.m.) = $300. And the cost of a tile is 40 sq.m. * $3.2 = $128. With an established sales market, the turnover balance (net profit) is $300 - $128 = $172 per day. It is important to note that the cost of production does not include the cost of wages to workers. The plan is designed for the work of one person. So, you will need to prepare 1000 forms. Preparation can take up to 5 days. For this reason, your true balance per day will be $172 / 5 days = $34. Therefore, the fair payback period for the equipment will be: $1650 (purchase of equipment) / $34 (net profit) = 50 days. If you plan to work with holidays, then 50 days / 22 working days = 2.5 months.

Pros and cons of a paving slab business

In general, the business looks very attractive. Advantages of a business idea: The idea does not require specialized investments to start High percentage of profitability Simple technological process production Short payback period. Of the minuses, it is worth noting. Business is highly dependent on seasonality. A rather long and boring process of preparing forms (all forms must be washed with salt water from concrete and treated with grease). Anyone can start this business. It can be made both the main and additional source of income. Also, the production of vibrocast products can be used to save money. For example, consider as an alternative to buying tiles for laying near your home.

If you have a construction site, then you probably already have a concrete mixer. You will make the table yourself, but you need to buy the forms. In cases of marriage, products can be used for other purposes at a construction site. If you are a very cautious person and are not ready for risks, then get a couple of forms and try your hand at a meager cost. I assure you that everything works out for you. Paving slabs are a sought-after product on the market. building materials. This is a consumable item. Exactly this practical cover for the yard. For example, asphalt emits toxic fumes when heated. Concrete cracks at sub-zero temperatures. The mobility of the tile coating allows you to freely replace worn areas. Believe in the product you are selling and people will buy from you.

The technology for the production of paving slabs with their own hands has been mastered for a long time and every year everything is being improved. Finished products in terms of its characteristics and quality, it is in no way inferior to the store, and sometimes even surpasses it. So why overpay a considerable amount of money for a pig in a poke when you can make solid paving slabs at home. This does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and tools, of course, if you do not want to produce it on an industrial scale. The key to high-quality paving stones is the “correct” solution and skillful hands.

Paving slab production technology

Despite the simplicity of the production technology, there are some nuances that should be studied before proceeding with the manufacture of tiles on their own. First of all, you need to choose and master the method of its manufacture that suits you.

Vibrocast paving slabs

This technology for the production of tiles provides for a continuously operating vibrating table, on which the sand-cement mixture hardens, laid in special forms.

After full compaction and hardening of the mixture, the molds are transferred to a warm place where they must stand for at least 12 hours.

The finished product is even and smooth. Such tiles are easy to clean from snow and sand. It has a bright, saturated color, and the form of its manufacture is practically unlimited.

For paving paths, it can embody any design idea on your site. Qualitatively laid out tiles can give an accent to any of your buildings on the site, especially since this is an excellent solution to get away from annoying asphalt.

From an industrial point of view, the production of vibrocast paving slabs is a fairly cheap process, perfectly suited for private use.

Vibropressed paving slabs

The manufacturing technology of vibropressed paving slabs is as follows.

  1. The concrete mixture is laid on a continuously vibrating frame in a special form (matrix).
  2. Then, a special blank (punch) made in the form of a matrix under high pressure, like a piston, begins to put pressure on the mixture.
  3. After complete compaction, the die and punch rise up, and the finished product remains on the bed. This method is fully automated and requires minimal human intervention.

The surface of the product is rough and porous. Such tiles are able to withstand heavy loads, are resistant to severe frosts, and are suitable for crowded places and vehicle traffic.

Despite the fact that there are compact installations that allow you to place such equipment on a home site, their cost is still high.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that for private needs, vibrocast paving slabs will be quite enough.

There is no need to be able to withstand heavy loads, since neither crowds of tourists nor vehicles will move along it. Therefore, in this article we will consider the manufacture of paving slabs using vibrocasting technology.

Paving slab manufacturing technologies

The expediency of buying equipment or renting it depends on the scale of the planned production.

If you need to cover small areas of your site with tiles, it makes sense to rent the necessary equipment, but if you have grandiose work on laying paved paths, blind areas, various sites, then it makes sense to think about purchasing it. In a word, it's up to each of you.

Necessary equipment for work

It is very difficult to manually bring the concrete mixture to the desired consistency. An alternative could be powerful drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution.

However, it is undesirable to work with such a tool for a long time, periodically you need to give it time to rest from the load. An ideal option would be a time-tested electric concrete mixer.

The main element of production without which you can not do. To date, you can buy a vibrating table in any store specializing in the sale of construction equipment.

Their initial price starts from $300. But do not rush, it is very simple from improvised materials. To do this, you will need (an electric motor, a sheet of metal, corners, metal plates and springs).

Local kulibins manage to use an ordinary washing machine for these purposes, setting it to high spin speeds.

Mix molds. You can also make the necessary forms using the material that almost everyone has on the site (plywood, metal plates, gypsum, and so on).

Options for making molds for paving slabs

You can purchase ready-made forms on any construction market, their price is not very high, so this will not significantly affect the budget.

DIY vibrating table

We will describe in stages the manufacture of a vibrating table for future forms. The main task is to get a flat surface of the upper platform. Required material and the tool you need:

  • vibration motor;
  • Sheet of metal with a thickness of 5 mm. (upper platform);
  • metal corner or profile pipe(framework);
  • Springs (damping);
  • Welding machine, electrodes and grinder.

frame

From metal corners or pipes, we weld a regular frame of suitable sizes. It is important to ensure that opposite pipes are the same size.

Using the same material, a rectangle is welded. On one side, a sheet of metal is welded onto it, on the other, a reinforced platform for a vibration motor with slots for fastening.

vibration motor

For vibrating tables, it is better to use a platform-type vibration motor. It is installed on a prepared base and firmly clamped with bolts.

Installation

The final step is to connect the platform with the frame, after inserting the springs into the landing bowls between them. The table is ready for use.

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs

The composition of the mortar for the manufacture of paving slabs must contain the following components:

  • Cement M-500;
  • Seeded river sand;
  • Crushed stone (fractions not more than 10 mm);
  • fiberglass;
  • plasticizer;
  • Concrete dye (optional)
  • Pure water without impurities.

It should be crumbly without the content of lumps and impurities. Remember that cement is a binder, so the strength of the tile will depend on its quality.

Sand like cement, it should not contain foreign impurities such as clay or algae. There is an easy way to test sand for clay content.

The sand must be tightly squeezed into a ball with the hands, fixed for a few seconds and unclenched, look after its condition. If the sand does not crumble, a clear sign of the presence of clay components in it.

Crushed stone is desirable to acquire a fraction 5-10 mm.

fiberglass performs the role of concrete reinforcement. The most common fiber material is polypropylene. It will not be difficult to purchase this component on the construction market.

The component that gives concrete strength and moisture resistance is - plasticizer. Pigment dye is used as needed.

Important! When mixing all of the above components, a strict dosage and sequence must be observed.

The ratio of components in solution

Components Proportions in % For 1 m² tiles For 1 m³ tiles
Cement (M 500) 20% 28 kg. 490 kg.
Crushed stone (fractions 5-10 mm.) 22% 30 kg. 520 kg.
river sand 55% 73 kg. 1300 kg.
plasticizer 0.5% by weight of the solution 45 gr. 1.7 liters
Dye (pigment) 7% by weight of the solution 650 gr. 9 kg.
fiberglass 0.04 by weight of the solution 55 gr. 0.8 kg.
Water 6% by weight of the solution 8.5 liters 135 liters

How to mix the solution correctly

We mix the mortar for paving slabs in the following sequence:

  1. Into the drum with no big amount water (1-1.5 buckets) add plasticizer and dye;
  2. We start the concrete mixer and stir the added components for one minute. From now on, the mixer should work continuously until the solution is completely mixed;
  3. Then, observing the above proportions, cement is added in turn, and then sand and crushed stone.
  4. Carefully monitor the consistency of the solution in the drum. The solution should turn out to be viscous, but in no case liquid.
  5. The final step will be the addition of fiber to the finished solution. Stir for another 2-3 minutes. The solution is ready.

Casting and vibration processing

  1. The solution is poured into pre-lubricated (soap or oil solution) molds placed on the platform of the vibrating table.
  2. The vibration treatment process must be carefully controlled. As soon as foam forms on the surface, this is a signal that the degassing of the liquid is completed and the machine can be turned off.

This process usually takes 4-5 minutes. It is impossible to overexpose the solution on the bed, the process of its stratification will begin.

Some people wonder why the vibration treatment of the solution is needed, why it is simply impossible to pour the finished mixture into molds.

The answer to this question lies in the tiny air bubbles that are in the hardened concrete. In severe frosts, they contribute to the splitting of paving slabs.

Drying and stripping molds

In summer, drying of castings should last at least 24 hours, in cool weather at least 2 days. In order for the tile to come out of the mold more easily, it should be immersed in a container with hot water for 10-15 seconds. The molds are well washed with water and they are ready for work again.

Important! It is not recommended to put freshly cast tiles into work immediately. To gain strength, it must be held for fresh air under the sun for another week. Only after that the paving slabs are ready for use.

If you have decided to make paving slabs with your own hands, then we hope that this article will be a good help and help in your work.

If the owners plan to equip paths on their suburban area or sites around a private city house, then you will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do it better and more economically. Today, a fairly popular coating used everywhere has become paving slabs of various colors and configurations.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially during transportation, losses are possible, which means purchasing tiles with a margin, and this will also be extra spending. Therefore, many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount at the same time.

Benefits of making your own tiles

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for a variant that is suitable in terms of pattern and color.


If a decision is made to engage in independent production of paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for a rather laborious work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations, when the paths or the playground near the house will have exactly the look that the owners intended when developing landscape design their possessions.

advantage homemade is also the fact that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale, or in general, or by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own version of a tile, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even forms, since molds for casting can also be made independently.

Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs

In the event that a tile of the desired configuration was not found in the store, or it was found, but it has a too high price, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in the amount of several pieces, and already with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for the improvement of paths and sites on the site.

paving slabs


For this, only a few copies of the finished tile of any color are purchased, according to which forms are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone that you like with its outlines, can be used as an initial sample.


Matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to make, but already during the production of tiles, the work will go much faster.


To make a form, you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20 ÷ 30 mm in height and 12 ÷ 15 mm in width. At the same time, it should be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35 ÷ 60 mm. A plywood box, a cardboard box, or any other material that can withstand the pouring of a plastic mold compound is suitable as a formwork. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound, or from silicone sealant.

Polyurethane mold


In the assortment of hardware stores you can find several types of compound, specially designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them can be called the domestic composition "Silagerm 5035", as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding composition is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to the Shore table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

Hardness 30±3Hardness 40±3
Time of formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more.45÷10045÷100
Viability (min), no more.60÷12060÷120
3.0÷4.53.5÷5.0
450÷600400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more.1 1
Viscosity (cps).3000÷35003000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.1.07±0.021.07±0.02

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

  • The sample for the manufacture of the matrix must be well washed and dried.
  • Further, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with a ready-made wax lubricant.
  • Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in proportions of 2: 1, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to observe the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer nozzle, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When kneading the mass, the drill turns on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not fully used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.


  • The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, in which the template is laid face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
  • Upon completion of the pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, with pouring, it should stand for 5 ÷ 7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
  • After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the mold can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to use it for its intended purpose only after 72 hours, after the material acquires all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the form will be able to withstand even the poured mass, heated to 80 ÷ 120 degrees.
  • The mold from the compound will serve long time if, before filling with a solution for making tiles, it is treated with a special compound "Type 90".

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

paving slabs brick

Silicone matrix


The silicone compound can also be two-component, packed in buckets, and requires preparation according to the instructions (generally - similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as a sealant. You need to buy it as much as it takes to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, the factory packaging of one-component silicone should be opened after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. As a lubricant, ordinary grease is most often used.


A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute silicone over the formwork, a spatula or brush is used, which are dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.


A thick layer of silicone dries much longer than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the filled layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare a tile mold in advance, for example, devoting it to winter time so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with cement from which paving slabs will be made in the warm season, or at least at a positive temperature.

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard one-component silicone sealant are shown in the table:

Main indicators of the materialNormalized valuesTest Results
The time of formation of a surface film after extrusion of the sealant from the tube (min) no more.30 5÷25
Viability (h), no more.8 6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less than0.1 0.4÷0.6
Relative elongation at break (%), not less.300 400÷600
Yield resistance (mm), no more.2 0÷1
Water absorption by weight (%), no more.1 0.35÷0.45
Density (g/cm³), no more.1200 1100÷1200
Durability, conditional years, not less.20 20

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to engage in the manufacture of matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on the suburban area may not differ at all from the neighboring ones.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (without special need, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, special forms are indispensable, and they can be made according to the instructions above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be nice to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It does not go out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and accuracy. It is especially important to use this version of the tile to decorate the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
In this case, a plastic mold with a size of 300 × 300 mm and a thickness of 30 mm is used to make tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​​​called "California shagreen".
Plastic molds are convenient in that they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during the laying of the mortar, but it is more difficult to extract the finished product from them due to the same rigidity.
In order for the form to last as long as possible, and it was easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with grease before pouring the solution.
To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, normal tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enameled bucket.
It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, since the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile can change.
Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container.
In this case, the master chose such a mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer nozzle.
The next step, in a separate container, water, dry dye and plasticizer are mixed until homogeneous.
As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
All components are thoroughly mixed with a mixer - this process should be carried out for at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes.
After kneading, a sufficiently thick viscous coarse-grained mass should be obtained.
It will acquire the necessary density in the process of putting it into shape and tamping.
Next, the resulting mixture is laid out in a greased form.
First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
The mass must be distributed with the greatest possible uniformity in shape, lifting it and shaking the matrix.
Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed with a spatula or trowel.
When filling the matrix with a solution, it must be carefully compacted by pressing with a trowel.
Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
Further, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface.
When shaking, air bubbles will come out of the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops coming out completely.
When the tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table on your own.
The form is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and can change upwards in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
After the required period of time has elapsed, the matrix is ​​turned over, and the tile is carefully removed from it.
If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the form, so that the product is easier to lag behind.
The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must finally dry out and gain strength.
To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days.
And the final set of the necessary strength, with the possibility of applying the full load on the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after manufacture.

Production of original paving slabs "pine cut" in polyurethane form

The original design of the sites and paths is the laying of wooden round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well, is subject to gradual decay and damage by various insects. concrete tiles, imitating a cut of a tree, will be an excellent substitute for natural material.

IllustrationBrief description of the operation to be performed
This one is very original version paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from solutions of different colors.
It is somewhat more difficult to make it than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out very carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other.
This tile is called "pine cut" as it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk.
The inner part has a beige color and the relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of coarsened pine bark.
For the manufacture of such products, a polyurethane flexible form is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above.
Since the polyurethane matrix does not have the proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which in the future will help to shake the solution after filling the form.
Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
To get a core with "annual rings", for one such tile you will need white cement 100 ÷ 150 g, sand of medium fraction - 300 ÷ 350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20 ÷ 25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
Water, color and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand.
All components are well mixed until homogeneous.
If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
The mass is laid out in the middle of the form, previously smeared with wax grease.
It may seem that it is too small, but this is a misleading impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it.
The mass is distributed only along the inner part of the mold, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings.
This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side that separates the middle part of the "round timber" from the improvised "bark".
The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed with a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold.
It is impossible to dilute the mixture, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid bottom, and spoil the whole intended effect of the tile.
Since there is little mixture in the matrix, the mold after the initial distribution is moved back and forth on the surface of the table and gently shaken.
Further, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly against the mold.
After that, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allotted for it.
The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
The next step is to prepare a solution for pouring the framing of the core of the round timber with “bark”.
For the mixture intended for the formation of this layer, and indeed the entire main part of the tile, it is necessary to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 gr., brown color 60 ÷ 70 gr., sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
Sand and cement mix well with a mixer.
Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer.
During mixing, some or all of the remainder of the solution is added.
The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
With the help of a trowel, the mixture is laid out in a matrix.
First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
Then, the mixture is laid out on the entire plane of the container.
When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel.
The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue, one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, they produce vibrating movements.
Then, the mixture is again compacted with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth.
It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix.
The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​gently inverted.
Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile.
A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
The finished tile must finally dry and gain strength, this will take at least 2-3 days.
When dried, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color.
However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
If it is decided to make a mold for such a tile on your own, then it is necessary to take as a basis natural round timber from any tree you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark.
Before pouring silicone or compound in the process of manufacturing the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not work.
Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small rim will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling.
After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can also carefully fill it yourself with a grout or ordinary cement composition.

Paving slabs made "in place" using a stencil

Another affordable way to equip garden paths is to fill them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly ennoble not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This guide can help you figure out how to properly prepare a space for tracks, and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be drawn to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

paving slabs

IllustrationBrief description of the operation to be performed
For such work from the tools you will need to prepare:
- building level;
- large and small spatula;
- Master OK;
- bayonet and shovel;
- pump-action sprayer;
- container for mixing mortar or concrete mixer,
- a wheelbarrow is desirable for delivering the mixture to the place of pouring.
After familiarization with the work process is carried out, each master can add to the list with tools that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the list presented.
From the materials you need to prepare:
- plastic mold for tiles;
- cement M-500;
- coarse sand;
- dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored;
- black polyethylene for flooring on the ground;
- slag or crushed stone of fine fraction.
At the same time, it should be borne in mind that from one bag of cement of 50 kg, 6 ÷ 7 slabs with a size of 600 × 600 mm and a thickness of 60 mm can be obtained.
This list can be replenished with curbs, since the path will not last long on an unenclosed site - the edges will begin to collapse.
A few words need to be said about the stencil itself.
The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles.
Thanks to this arrangement, after pouring concrete into it and gaining strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, divided by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness.
Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are fixed, which will help to remove the stencil from the set concrete without any problems.
In order for the path to serve for a long time and not overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for pouring it.
To do this, first of all, a fertile soil layer is removed from the marked area, approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm deep.
Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the germinating grass from breaking through.
Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick.
Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it honestly, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness.
This layer is moistened and compacted again.
If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs.
If it is planned to protect the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the formation of the path.
Next, a stencil is laid on the prepared place, treated from the inside with engine oil using a brush.
In order to save the solution, as well as to increase the strength of the created slab and its peculiar reinforcement, crushed stone of a large fraction can be placed in the inner space of the mold.
The next step is to mix the cement mortar.
It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a suitable size container.
The concrete mixture should be prepared in this way: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 gr. plasticizer and, if desired, dye is added.
If 5 ÷ 6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is kneaded in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement, 250 g must be prepared. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine gravel, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Water is added as much as necessary to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture.
With such a volume of solution, a concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle. m.
In order to adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, it is necessary to proportionally reduce the component composition.
If colored tiles are made, then it is permissible to add color in the amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
The prepared solution is filled in the laid form.
It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire space of the stencil.
Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
The solution is distributed with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed spatula, the mass will be easy to place in the corners under the stencil webs.
It is better to put more mixtures than required than not to report, as the excess is easy to remove with a trowel.
The solution is leveled on the upper jumpers of the stencil using a wide spatula.
Excess mixture is removed with a trowel.
It is recommended to level the surface of the future tile to perfect smoothness, as its wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
After waiting 20 ÷ 30 minutes until the solution sets, the stencil is removed from the tile by grabbing the handles screwed into the technological holes.
This must be done very carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet completely hardened, and it is likely that one of the corners of the tile will be damaged during an awkward movement.
The result should be such a concrete slab.
The form removed from the previous plate is placed next to it, observing a gap of about 10 mm.
Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, sand bedding or a support of flat stone or ceramic tile is made in one or two corners.
Further, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution that is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
If the path is framed by curbs already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the plates and curbs are also filled with mortar.
In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of a special lawn grass, which rises by only 30 ÷ 50 mm.
The gaps between the plates can be left empty.
However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the plates.
If desired, in the process of manufacturing such a coating, it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles.
It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is again leveled with a spatula.
If you want to add garden plot colorfulness, then the tile can be made multi-colored by filling the cells of the stencil with solutions in which different colors are added.
This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always cheer you up.
Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three molds for pouring. So the work will be more efficient, since it is possible to fill areas in several stencils at once with a solution of the same color.

Starting work on arranging paths in this way, it is imperative to take an interest in the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the very first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work on arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, but having only two or three such matrices, you can quickly lay paths and ennoble the sites of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing a finished tile, you should remember that laying it correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if it is not possible to make paving on your own, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will at least be equal to the cost of the tile itself.

The stencil will not allow you to make gross mistakes. Even without any experience in this area, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased accuracy will be manifested, and the novice master himself will mobilize all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of the master - the manufacture of paving slabs for natural wood

Planning arrangement garden paths on his personal plot, you always want to create functional and at the same time beautiful elements of landscape design. Wooden saw cuts can serve as material for garden paths, a natural stone, gravel ... But still, the most popular among the owners of suburban areas as a coating for sites and paths is paving slabs, which have an attractive appearance and excellent quality characteristics. Do-it-yourself paving slabs will become an original addition to the design of the site, in harmony with the style of the house and garden.

What are the benefits of homemade tiles?

The production of paving slabs with your own hands is a rather laborious and rather long, but at the same time quite an exciting process. The result of the work is exclusive products, successfully combined into picturesque paths.

Interesting ideas for decorating garden paths can be found in the material:

Such unusual paths serve as a worthy frame for flowering plants garden

In addition, making paving slabs with your own hands will significantly save money in family budget, because the purchase of a finished coating is many times more expensive.

Tiles made at home may not be suitable for covering sites that are designed to accommodate heavy structures or vehicles, but will great solution for walking paths in the garden. With the correct manufacture of the concrete mixture and exposure to all stages of production technology, you can get a product with 100% durability.

Using colors and pigment dyes, you can create tiles of various shades.

By experimenting and coloring solutions with colorants, you can get incredible combinations and patterns. Himself is an interesting activity that allows you to unleash your creative potential, bringing a lot of pleasure and positive.

Manufacturing process step by step

In order to make the original paving slabs with your own hands, you first need to purchase the material of manufacture and stock up essential tool. The tile is created on the basis of a mixture of cement, sand and water with maintaining proportions that depend on the purpose of the product and the brand of cement used. For the manufacture of durable garden paving slabs, it is advisable to use cement grade M 500. It is not worth saving on the quality of the material, so as not to stumble on a crumbling path later.

Sand and mortar water must be free of dirt and leaves. It is not scary if small pebbles are present in the composition of the sand. Their presence will not affect the quality of the concrete. But the product will acquire an unusual texture.

Advice! With the help of plasticizers, it is possible to increase the strength of paving slabs and its resistance to temperature changes.

A wide range of plastic molds for pouring are available in specialized stores. They may have absolutely different forms and sizes. Each of them is designed for 200 fills. To speed up the manufacturing process, it is advisable to purchase ten pieces of each type of form.

Combining 2-3 product configurations, you can create unusual ornaments and fancy "snakes"

It is also possible to use plastic containers as molds for food products, which have sufficient flexibility, softness and strength. Using containers of simple shapes with even sides and right angles, you can make rectangular "bricks".

These tiles are easy to fit together when laying.

Solution preparation

The necessary components are ready, we can safely start making exclusive paving slabs with our own hands. You can mix the sand-cement mixture as manually, and with the help of a perforator having a mixer nozzle. When planning to create coatings amounting to several tens or even hundreds of tiles, it is advisable to stock up on a concrete mixer to facilitate the process. It’s great if it is already in the owner’s arsenal. After all, such construction equipment can be used for many purposes, from concreting a stream bed in a garden to repairing fence posts.

In a container, which can be used as a basin or bucket, 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand are poured

When kneading the solution in a concrete mixer to obtain a homogeneous mass, you first need to pour sand, and then cement is poured into a continuously rotating container.

Add water to the mixture gradually, without ceasing to mix the solution. Exceeding the amount of water in the solution can lead to a decrease in the strength of the finished concrete. To prevent this, water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber are added to the solution during mixing and pouring.

The consistency of the solution should be pasty: a little liquid, but not slipping off the trowel

It is possible to paint tiles in the most unusual colors with the help of inorganic pigments, which have increased resistance to light and atmospheric phenomena, as well as an alkaline environment. The amount of dye for the solution is selected by the "sampling method", starting from 30-50 g and gradually increasing the proportion. The composition acquires a uniform color after 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the composition is determined by the absence of lumps and uniform coloring of the entire volume of the material.

Filling in forms

Before pouring the form, it is advisable to lubricate with emulsol or any oil (you can even use used machine oil). This will subsequently facilitate the disassembly of the frozen product.

Forms are poured with mortar and tamped with a trowel

It is possible to increase the strength of the product by laying a metal mesh, rod or wire into the form filled up to half with concrete, and then supplementing it with the remaining solution to the brim.

In order to compact the cement mass and expel excess air bubbles from the solution, it is necessary to create concrete vibration. For these purposes, a vibrating table is used. In the absence of such a design, a rack or shelf can serve as an alternative to it. To create vibration, it is enough to perform several taps on the table with a mallet.

Drying and removal of products from containers

Forms filled with concrete are covered with plastic wrap and aged for 2-3 days. During this period, it is important to maintain a sufficient level of moisture. To do this, it is advisable to periodically moisten the hardening products.

The place where the blanks dry should be hidden from direct sunlight.

After 2-3 days after casting, the tiles can be unmolded by slightly moving the sides and shaking. Dry the product in the shade for another 3-4 weeks. During this time, the tile will acquire sufficient strength, and it can be used as a covering for garden paths and recreation areas.

The only reason that makes you think about this method of paving from a negative point of view is high price material in retail chains. However, there is an option available to significantly reduce costs. Tiles can be made at home and then its cost will be significantly lower. Therefore, this article will address the question of how to make paving slabs at home.

factory technology

On an industrial scale, the production of vibrocast, vibropressed and clinker tiles for paving sidewalks is carried out. At the same time, depending on the manufacturing technology, the quality of products varies greatly.

The technology is quite simple to use. It is based on the fact that a cement-based mortar is poured into curly molds and compacted on a special surface by vibration.

vibropress.

Such products are distinguished by rich color shades and are sold at a low price. However, the strength and frost resistance of such paving slabs is an order of magnitude lower than that of other types.

vibropressed tiles made on special equipment that compacts the concrete mixture with high pressure. Such paving stones are stronger, but also more expensive due to the use of a press and increased power consumption.

The most best tile- clinker. Clinker production of paving slabs occurs by firing specially prepared clay in a kiln at very high temperature. The final product turns out to be very durable, frost-resistant and beautiful, while not yielding in terms of durability even to hard natural stone.

But the high energy consumption for the manufacture of paving slabs and the need to use expensive industrial equipment raises the cost of this material several times.

Equipment and inventory for work

In the conditions of homestead farming, special industrial equipment, of course, is absent, and therefore the technology for manufacturing paving slabs at home is based on the vibrational compaction of concrete. To complete the work, you will need the following equipment and inventory:

  • small;
  • wide capacity for acceptance of finished concrete;
  • sieve for sifting sand;
  • or other flat vibrating surface;
  • molds for pouring concrete mix;
  • rubber mallet;
  • shovels, buckets, spatulas.

In addition, a strong stable rack is needed for drying tile blanks in molds.

Necessary materials

From building materials you will need:

  • cement brand PC500 or PC400;
  • washed or river sand, preferably medium fraction;
  • gravel fraction no more than 10 mm;
  • natural or mineral pigment;
  • mold lubricant.

In the event that the gravel is dirty or contains a lot of dust, then it must be washed, as impurities can adversely affect the quality of products and their color shade.

Work site organization

First of all, it is necessary to correctly install the concrete mixer, vibrating table and rack for placing forms with concrete. These are the largest objects and all actions will take place near them.

The concrete mixer, as the main equipment for the production of paving slabs, should stand in such a way that there is enough space for placing a sand pile and gravel near it.

You should also leave room for buckets of water or a watering hose. The best place for the vibrating table is located in a straight line between the concrete mixer and the rack for storing molds with concrete.

The rack can stand indoors or outdoors, but in a place where it will be reliably protected from direct sunlight. Cement can be stored near the rack.

Forms for making

Manufacturers offer molds of various configurations and sizes, made from different materials. You can buy standard square or rectangular, multi-element or monoblock shapes. These can be cups for the manufacture of each product separately and for the simultaneous pouring of several plates.

If desired, molding equipment will be easy. In this case, you can get exclusive products that no one else has. For this use various materials— from wood and polystyrene to metal and plaster.

It is important to remember that tiles made by vibrocasting have a reduced strength and frost resistance. That's why an important factor when choosing forms, their depth determines the thickness of the future product.

In the case of home-made, its thickness must be at least 40 mm for footpaths and sidewalks and at least 60 mm for driveways or parking lots passenger car. The movement of freight transport on such a tile is highly undesirable.

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Manufacturing instructions

The production of paving slabs by vibrocasting is carried out in several stages, which include:

  1. preparation of concrete mix;
  2. preparation of forms before laying concrete;
  3. pouring concrete mixture into molds and vibrating table operation;
  4. hardening period of concrete;
  5. demoulding and storage of finished paving stones.

Each of the stages has its own technological features, some of which may have several versions.

concrete mix requirements

Certain requirements are imposed on materials for the manufacture of concrete. Sand must be sieved through a sieve to remove particles of clay, earth and other undesirable impurities that reduce the quality of concrete. The gravel must be clean. Otherwise, it must be rinsed with water. The use of PC300 cement is unacceptable even when it is added in an increased proportion.

In order to increase the strength of the tile, synthetic fibers (fiberglass) can be added to the concrete composition. Expensive industrial plasticizers can be replaced with liquid detergent. The applied pigment dyes must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation and are intended for outdoor use.


Fiberglass.

The ideal ratio of the components of the mixture for the manufacture of tiles according to the calculations of specialists is:

  • cement PC500 - 21% or 30 kg;
  • gravel or granite screenings - 23% or 32 kg;
  • sifted sand - 56% or 75 kg;
  • pigment dye - no more than 7% by weight of concrete or 700 g;
  • industrial plasticizer C-3 - 0.7% by weight of the mixture or 50 g;
  • water - 5.5% by weight of concrete or 8 liters;
  • fiberglass up to 0.05% by weight of concrete or 60 g.

Since it is almost impossible to maintain such exact proportions at home, the solution is usually prepared based on the following calculation:

  • 1 part PC500 cement, 1.5 parts gravel, 3 parts sand;
  • 1 part PC400 cement, 1 part gravel, 2.5 parts sand.

Liquid is added as a plasticizer. detergent at the rate of 1 glass per batch. Water is added gradually until the mixture becomes homogeneous, and the density will resemble thick sour cream.

If a dry pigment dye is used in the work, then it must first be dissolved in water, and then added to concrete in an amount of not more than 1.2 liters per batch.

Initially, dry components are poured into the mixing equipment for the production of paving stones, and after they have been mixed, water is gradually added. In this case, it is recommended that you first fill in half the required sand and gravel, and then pour out the cement, mix and add everything else. In this case, the cement will not stick to the walls of the mixer.


Solution mixing mode.

Mixing of concrete mixture with added water should not be less than 15 minutes. The finished mixture is poured into a trough or other similar container, and from there it is transported or loaded directly into the molds.


Form lubrication.

Placement of ready-mixed concrete in molds

The types of forms and their possible choice or DIY were discussed above. Therefore, the process of their filling and compaction on the vibrating table will be described directly here.

In order for the finished tiles to be removed more easily after the mold has hardened, it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment. To do this, they are lubricated from the inside with light machine or vegetable oil. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use a thick soapy solution.

If financial resources allow, then in stores you can purchase a special composition for lubrication. It will provide easier demolding, but will require additional costs.

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For quick filling of forms, it is recommended to install a low table near the vibrating table. It will be possible to put forms on it and fill it there. This will reduce the amount cement mortar spilled on a working vibrating surface.

The filling process can be done in three ways:

  1. Pre-painted throughout the volume, the concrete mixture is poured into molds in one go, the surface is leveled with a spatula and placed on a vibrating table.
  2. Initially, a quarter of the volume is filled with a colored solution, and the rest of the volume is filled with ordinary gray concrete.
  3. The colored layer occupies approximately 15-20% of the volume, and a reinforcing mesh or pieces of wire are placed between the colored and gray layers to increase the strength of the products and better connect the layers.

The first option will be technologically the simplest, but a concrete mixture with a large amount of dye may have reduced strength.

In the second case, clean concrete will act as a solid base, resulting in a stronger tile. In addition, the cost of purchasing the dye is reduced. However, it will be necessary to simultaneously prepare two different solutions - colored and gray, which complicates the production technology.

The third option allows you to get the strongest and beautiful tiles, but it is even more difficult to implement. Ultimately, the choice of technology in this case depends only on you.

Tile coloring methods

To obtain color shades on the surface of paving slabs, four different methods are used:

  1. The tiles are made of colored concrete throughout;
  2. Products are made two-layer, where upper layer tiles - from colored colored mortar, and the rest of the mass - from the usual gray concrete mixture;
  3. Before concrete is poured into molds, their inner surface is coated with a water-based coloring agent;
  4. Surface.

The most stable color in the manufacture of paving slabs can be obtained by using the first two methods, but they are quite costly from a financial point of view. The fourth option allows you to save money, but the paint from the surface will be easily erased, as a result of which it will have to be tinted periodically.


Forms filled with concrete mix on a vibrating table.

Placement of completed molds on a vibrating platform

After the required number of forms is filled, they are placed on the surface of the vibrating table. In this case, it is allowed to put the forms one on top of the other, but not more than in 2 rows.

Vibration processing of paving slabs allows you to displace all the air and compact the concrete mixture with high quality. If during the vibration process a strong subsidence of the solution occurs, then you need to add it to the bowls that are not completely filled and level the surface with a spatula.

The strength and frost resistance of products, and, hence, their durability, directly depend on the quality of compaction of the concrete mix. Therefore, the process of vibration processing must continue for the required time. The exact duration depends on the oscillation frequency and engine power and is determined experimentally (on average it is 40-120 seconds).


Homemade vibrating table.

The process of curing concrete

After processing on a vibrating table, the completed forms must be transferred to a storage rack. Shelves of the rack must withstand a large weight load, and the rack itself must also stand in the shade, excluding direct sunlight on the surface.

The process of initial setting of concrete during the manufacture of paving slabs takes 12-18 hours, but full hardening will end only after 72-96 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. Only after that you can proceed to the removal of products from the molds and their storage.

Forming and further storage of finished products


Disbandment.

The process of removing finished products from the molds after the concrete has set is called demoulding. It must be done carefully, trying not to damage the plates and to preserve the possibility of reusing the molds.

If the inner surfaces of the molds were machined before pouring the concrete, then demoulding will not be so difficult, especially in the case of soft models.

If complications arise, treatment of the outer side of the molds with hot water can be recommended. Plastic or silicone materials will expand from the hot water and loosen the tile. During demoulding, it is allowed to tap the molds and tiles with a rubber mallet.

The removed tiles are stored on pallets, observing the dressing between the individual products when laying. The height of the stack on the pallet should not exceed 1.2 meters. This condition allows you to protect the tiles of the lower rows from destruction due to the weight load.

Conclusion

As you can see, it is quite possible to make paving slabs with your own hands, since this technological process is not very complicated and does not require special knowledge from the performer.


The cost of self-production of tiles.

True, for successful work, you need to have such equipment for the production of paving slabs as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table, but they can be bought, rented or made independently. The most important thing for obtaining a quality result is the exact observance of technology and the use of high-quality raw materials.

Self-manufacturing paving slabs gives the developer the following advantages:

  • financial costs for the improvement of a personal plot are reduced;
  • it becomes possible to choose any shape and color of the material;
  • you can prepare any amount of material for paving;
  • independent quality control of the manufactured material.

By laying homemade vibrocast tiles, each owner can fully show their creative abilities and equip the site according to their taste and desire.

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