Preparing the concrete floor for laying tiles. Surface preparation for tiles. Laying tiles on the "warm floor"

Arrangement of the floor is an integral part of the repair of the premises in general. Of course, in different parts houses or apartments are more functional and beautiful floors different type and class, but it's quite common to see tiled floors in kitchens and bathrooms lately. Also, the floors in the hallway are often tiled - either over the entire area, or at least adjacent to front door part of the floor.

Do-it-yourself tile laying

Pros of tiled floors

Tiled floors (or floors covered with ceramic tiles) are very practical and durable. They are not afraid of moisture, are not combustible, it is easy to remove all pollution from them. The owners will not have to worry about replacing such floors long time. And you can choose an ornament for the floor for every taste and wallet. After all, the modern market building materials offers a huge range of tiles not only of domestic production, but also tile options, as they say, from all over the world.

Disadvantages of tiling

In order for a beautiful and practical tiled floor to please you for as long as possible, you need to make sure that it is laid on a flat, flawless base.

Perfectly laid floor tiles

Otherwise, any tubercle missed during surface preparation or an unsealed gap in the concrete may present you an unpleasant surprise in the form of a cracked or loose tile from the base. Therefore, if in the near future you do not plan to spend energy, time and Additional materials for repair or alteration of the floor, the stage of preparing the surface for laying tiles must be given special attention.

Floor tiling can be carried out using a cement mortar with an admixture of special substances, as well as on a specially designed mastic or tile adhesive. The preparation of the floor for laying tiles in each case will be different, but General requirements to bring the floor into a condition suitable for facing, they are almost identical.
To begin with, it is necessary to carefully examine general state and the reliability of the floor on which they plan to lay the tiles.

How to prepare a wooden floor for laying tiles

It seems that laying tiles on a plank base is impossible, however, this is not so. Of course, it is necessary to prepare a wooden floor for laying tiles very thoroughly.

Do-it-yourself floor tiling

So, the first thing to do is to hammer the protruding nail heads into the thickness of the tree, as well as screw and drown the screws in the thickness of the wood. The gaps between the boards are permissible with a width of no more than 2-3 mm. Softwood slats are driven into wider slots, which, in turn, are very desirable to be fixed with glue or carnations with hidden hats, driving them obliquely into the floor. After all the cracks are sealed in this way, the floor surface can be cycled and all potholes can be puttied.
After the putty has dried, it is desirable to sand the entire surface on a wooden block. Then the wooden base must be thoroughly cleaned of chips and sawdust, then soaked with an antiseptic and dried well, then primed with drying oil.
Another requirement: the boards should not bend when walking. If the boards sag, laying tiles on top of such a coating should be forgotten. It will not work to strengthen such a floor to the required level. The same applies to parquet flooring. If the parquet planks are loose, they must be securely fastened with nails or mastic.

Leveling the floor with chipboard

You can also put waterproofing from several layers of roofing material on a plank base. Then, a reinforced mesh with a cell of 10 cm is securely attached above the floor level at a height of about 1 cm, and a screed solution is poured, on top of which, after complete drying, tiles can be laid.

Concrete base for tiles

First you need to completely remove the remnants of grease and paint from the surface. The most convenient way to do this is with warm water, after dissolving caustic soda in it in a proportion of 150 g per 10 liters of water. You can also use a 2-3% hydrochloric acid solution. With the help of a scarpel, all protrusions are cut off from the surface, and all cracks and potholes are wetted and carefully sealed with cement mortar. Places where defects were found can be additionally treated with PVA glue. This will increase adhesion. Places where defects were repaired with a solution must be carefully smoothed out with a trowel, leveling them with the surface. After that, the floor is allowed to set for at least 12 hours, periodically wetting the surface with water. When the solution dries sufficiently, the entire base must be sanded with a coarse-grained timber and then carefully cleaned of dust.

An alternative is a self-leveling screed. To perform a screed, it is absolutely not necessary to be a specialist in construction, so if you decide to prepare the floor for tiling with your own hands, you should definitely pay attention to this technology. With the help of a screed, even seemingly hopeless floors are perfectly leveled under the most different coatings. On the floor prepared in this way, both linoleum and parquet or parquet board, and tiles.

Prepare the floor for tiling with your own hands

First, a polystyrene foam dividing tape is laid at the junction of the floor and walls. All cracks and holes are sealed adhesive composition, after drying of which the base is treated with a primer solution. If the base of the floor is too porous and fragile, then it should even be primed two or three times.
When the primer is completely dry, the base of the floor is carefully poured with a freshly prepared screed solution. If the solution is prepared in accordance with the recipe, it spreads easily over the base, while forming a flat surface. In some cases, a metal grater or notched trowel can be used to spread the mixture.

The result is a screed layer with a thickness of 2 mm to 1 cm. If the base is strongly inclined, the screed layer can be thicker. In order to avoid the formation of air bubbles in the thickness of the solution, the entire surface along and across is carefully passed several times with a special spiked roller. The same needle roller is used to improve docking between different portions of the solution. At the same time, this procedure avoids the formation of voids between the screed layer and the base. It is convenient to move around the floor filled with a semi-liquid solution on paint shoes - special shoes on pins.

Spreading the mix for laying tiles on the floor

Already after 12 hours of exposure at a temperature not lower than 20 ° C, it will be possible to walk on the screed, and after two days the solution will dry completely, and you can start laying tiles.

If a layer of screed has already been applied to the surface, it must be carefully checked for strength. This is done by simply tapping with a small hammer. The sound when tapping should not be deaf, which indicates the absence of voids under the screed layer. Also, tapping will help to understand how high-quality the solution was. If the screed crumbles and delaminates, it will be better to fill in a new layer of mortar.

In addition, it is necessary to check how flat the surface on which the tile will be attached is. This is done using a two-meter aluminum rule. During the test, a gap is formed between the floor surface and the rule. The permissible value of this gap may be different depending on the forthcoming method of fixing the tiles. When using tile adhesive, the gap should not exceed 2 mm. If the tile will be attached to the mastic - 4 mm. If you plan to use cement mortar, even a clearance of 8 mm can be allowed.
Check how horizontal the base for laying tiles will allow the building level. For best results, the floor slope should not exceed 2%, or, in other words, no more than 4 mm per 2 meters of length.

Leveling the surface for laying tiles

In bathrooms, preparing the floor for laying tiles has its own characteristics. In addition to leveling the base, before facing, it is necessary to carefully seal the joints between the floor and walls with a special waterproofing compound.

Laying tiles on the "warm floor"

Systems of "warm floor", equipped under the screed, can be very different. And made from propylene pipes- including.

If the screed is checked, and there are no complaints about it, then before performing work, the “warm floor” system will need to be turned off for several days. Next, tiles are laid on the base in compliance with all recommendations regarding surface preparation for laying tiles. It is recommended to turn on the underfloor heating system no earlier than 2-3 days after grouting the joints between the tiles.

If the "warm floor" system is equipped with thermal mats, they also need to be turned off for the duration of the work. Tiles can be laid directly on the adhesive, without prior screeding. Glue for tiles, however, you will need a special one suitable for underfloor heating.

Laying tiles on the "warm floor"

Preparing the floor for plastic tiles

Just as in the case of ceramic and tile, care should be taken that the base (subfloor) is even, without any flaws. If necessary, it is also recommended to perform a cement-sand floor screed to achieve the best result. Chipboard, OSB and even plywood can be used as the basis for PVC tiles.
Before starting work on laying tiles, it is recommended that the base be primed to increase the degree of adhesion between the materials.
The temperature in the room where PVC tiles will be laid should not fall below 15°C.
Fits pvc tiles butt-to-butt method. One of its differences from tiles or ceramics is that air bubbles can form under it when laying. To prevent this from happening, the surface of the tile is carefully tapped with a rubber mallet.

While the surface of the tile is the most visible part of the cladding, the part below it is the most important element styling. How the cladding will look and whether it will be strong enough depends not only on the right choice of tiles, but equally on the choice of appropriate laying materials. All facings made from ceramic or stone tiles, regardless of type, size or price, need a strong base, an adhesive to hold the tiles in place, a grout to protect each tile, and a caulk or sealant to isolate the entire cladding layer from surrounding materials. .

Since more and more new laying materials appear every year, their range has become simply huge and make right choice becomes difficult even for a professional tile installer. While many products on the market are excellent and trustworthy, there are also many products that are clearly inferior in quality. Therefore, it is better to choose materials known trademark designed specifically for laying tiles.

It is desirable that the material you purchased has a quality certificate from the manufacturer. In addition, you should make sure that the materials you have purchased for installation have been properly stored and that the packaging is sealed and undamaged. All laying materials (including tiles) must be protected from extreme conditions. environment(cold, heat, high humidity), which can make them unfit for consumption. It is also necessary to deliver them very carefully to the installation site.

After delivery, the materials must be protected from any undesirable influences and allowed to remain for some time at room temperature prior to installation. If the materials have already been delivered to the job site, try to be present when they are unloaded and check the packaging for tears, water stains, or other obvious signs of damage. Laying materials are heavy, so only part of the materials can be checked. Most supplier firms will replace materials even if no damage is discovered at the time of purchase, but buyers should be quick to file claims.

Choosing the right materials depends on your budget, the level of material requirements, the qualifications of the tile installer and how well they represent the possible options for future installation. The selection process begins with the materials that serve as the basis for laying the tiles.

Bases for laying tiles

The bases for laying tiles can be the most different surfaces, such as cement board, drywall, concrete slabs, plywood, a thick layer of cement mortar and even old tiling. This article talks about materials that can be used as a base for laying tiles in new construction. Some of them are designed specifically for laying work, while others can be used for other purposes. Most of the available surfaces that can be used as a base for heavy tile installation, including concrete or plasterboard walls and existing cladding ceramic tiles, usually requires fine-tuning to the required level of technical requirements.

cement board

Cement slabs are a ready-to-use base for laying tiles. They are more expensive than plywood and other sheeting, but due to their increased strength, they are an ideal base for tiling. Cement boards can be used as a base for laying tiles on walls, floors and kitchen counters in both wet and dry areas. The slabs themselves do not protect against moisture, but when they are installed in wet areas, an additional waterproof coating can be used to protect the supporting structure or frame from water seeping into the seams between the slabs.

There are two various types cement boards. The most commonly used type has a core of a mixture of sand and Portland cement, and the outside of the boards is covered with a fiberglass mesh to increase the strength. Such plates are produced in various sizes: 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm and 15 mm thick, from 800 mm to 1200 mm wide, from 900 mm to 3000 mm long. It is best to use the thickest slabs available on the market (not thinner than 10 mm for fastening to frame posts), although 6 mm thick slabs are useful for laying over drywall. The reinforcing mesh covering the boards can be cut with a special hand cutter or electric tools with special blades attached to them.

Another type of cement board, about 6 mm thick, is made from a mixture of sand, cement and mineral fibers. In such a plate, the fibers also act as a reinforcing element, but they are evenly distributed throughout the entire thickness of the plate, and not just on its surface. Fiberglass reinforced boards are dense, hold fasteners well, and generally have the same characteristics as fiberglass reinforced boards and can be cut with the same hand or power tool.

There are many different cement boards on the market. Some are for indoor use only, while others are suitable for both indoor and outdoor use. Some stoves have a warranty, others do not. Whichever slab you choose, check the manufacturer's instructions to make sure you have properly prepared the base and are using the correct mounting materials (screws, nails, mesh, etc.).

Fiberglass gypsum board

Do not confuse ordinary or moisture-resistant gypsum boards with fiberglass gypsum boards, which are designed specifically for laying ceramic tiles on them. Since they are inferior in strength and hardness to cement boards, fiberglass gypsum boards can be used in cases where it is expected that the loads on them will be small. Usually, these boards have a moisture-resistant coating and a water-repellent impregnated core, so they Can also be installed in wet areas eg around water pipes. The boards are also reinforced with fiberglass inside. But although the boards themselves are waterproof, seams between them should be isolated using silicone sealants.

The slabs are 120x240 cm in size, are easy to transport, cut and fasten, and although they are not as strong as cement slabs, many of them have a long warranty period. Fiberglass gypsum boards are cut by notching and breaking and fastened to the frame with waterproof screws. The instructions for use offered by different manufacturers of such boards may vary slightly and therefore some specific details in the instructions should be clarified.

Moisture resistant gypsum boards

Commonly referred to as a green or blue slab due to its color, it is used as a base for paint, wallpaper or wood paneling in places like the bathroom. Such a plate cannot withstand frequent moisture and is insufficiently strong base for laying ceramic tiles in places with permanently high humidity. Moisture-resistant gypsum boards can only be used as a base for laying ceramic tiles in wet areas if if it is not possible to install cement or fiberglass gypsum boards, but in this case, an additional waterproofing coating must be made on the surface of the gypsum board

Ordinary drywall boards

In places with a lack of humidity, you can lay tiles on ordinary plasterboard. They can also be installed in places with high humidity only if the surface is done waterproofing coating.

The strength of the tiled masonry largely depends on the base on which it is installed. A sheet of drywall with a thickness of 12 - 15 mm will not be strong enough. If you are going to tile over drywall, at least double the thickness of the drywall (place an extra layer of 12mm thick drywall to give strength to the tiling).

Plywood

Prior to the introduction of cement boards in the late 1970s, tile installers had several types of substrate to choose from, but most laid floor tiles directly on plywood. Millions square meters ceramic and stone tiles were laid without any obvious problems. Adhesive manufacturers continue to produce old adhesives and develop new adhesives for thin-layer tile laying, which allow tiles to be glued directly to plywood quite well. One manufacturer even gives a long-term warranty on their plywood tile products. However, the following problems exist.

Plywood used as a base for tiling in dry, temperate climates is a relatively stable base, but damp or damp places, and with sharp seasonal fluctuations plywood is far from ideal. Plywood should never be used as a subfloor in damp or damp areas without first being waterproofed with a waterproof membrane.. Wet or dry, your installation will be more durable if you use base slabs designed specifically for tiling. Opt for plywood only if cement board or other similar materials made specifically for tiling aren't available to you.

If you chose plywood, use plywood for outdoor use, or if possible, it is better to choose ship grade which is quite expensive. When buying plywood, choose only sorted material that has a stamp, and carefully inspect each sheet, no matter what type it is. Discard sheets that are warped or have visible voids or delaminations. You should also not take sheets with drops of wood resin (usually found on pine plywood), because the resin will reduce the adhesive properties of some adhesive solutions.

Unlike the types of exterior plywood described above, plywood for interior decoration, Particleboard (Particleboard) and Hardboard (Fibreboard) are not suitable for floors and kitchen countertops as tiling surfaces.. Interior plywood contains an adhesive that can dissolve or become soft due to the moisture present in the adhesive solutions. On the other hand, fiberboard, when exposed to moisture, begins to expand, and when dried, it does not completely restore its previous dimensions. Plywood for internal works can be used as a base for wall cladding only if it will not be exposed to moisture. However, the material must be at least 15 mm thick and securely fastened to the posts.

Concrete plates

Concrete slabs are an excellent base for laying ceramic or stone tiles., but they must be made in a special way and have a flat surface with a tolerance of 3mm for every 3m of surface. concrete mix for slabs must not contain any liquid film-forming additives or other coatings that may interfere with the normal adhesion of the tile to concrete. A good brush that will roughen the surface is preferable to a steel trowel.

Most concrete surfaces need waterproofing, leveling, or other preparation before tiling.

Cement strainer

For a long time, laying tiles on a thick layer of cement mortar has been considered the most suitable, neat and reliable way of laying. Cement mortar can be laid on any type of surface and can withstand significant loads. To obtain a layer of cement mortar of the minimum allowable thickness (for walls or floors), only a wooden frame is needed as a formwork, with which you can make neat platforms of any shape and size.

However, to pour a thick layer of cement mortar, it is necessary to have enough skill and strength, and we would not recommend a fitter without sufficient experience to take on this job. Although in some cases the cement screed is the only possible option(e.g. a sloping floor in a shower enclosure), for most installations in living areas there are various options bases that are as effective as cement mortar. If you feel that a layer of grout is the only base that will work in this particular case, but you don't have the skill to do it yourself, get a professional tile installer or mason to pour the cement base. Then you can lay the tiles yourself.

Self-leveling floors

Laying on cement mortar may be too expensive for large rooms. For this reason, numerous self-leveling compounds have appeared on the market, which are beneficial in terms of reducing mortar consumption and not requiring highly skilled laying. These mixtures need only light mixing, after which they are poured onto the base of the floor. Within a few minutes, the material is leveled, and after a few hours, tiles can already be laid on it. Self-levelling compounds are quite strong and have been shown in tests to withstand heavy loads, but not all are suitable for laying ceramic or stone tiles. Make sure the mix you choose is specifically designed for tiling.

Floor tiles are a wonderful decorative coating that can transform not only the kitchen and bathroom, but also living rooms. It is strong, durable, thanks to the variety appearance is able to fit into any interior, besides, it is possible to lay any types of warm floors under it, except for film - it is difficult to stick tiles to its smooth surface. When laying the coating will have to work hard, but the result will pay off all the efforts.

Floor tiles are demanding on the surface. It must be clean, even, solid and stable, so the preparation for the installation of the coating will primarily depend on the type of floor, which, without going into details, is concrete or wood.

Floor in a new apartment

Most likely, it will be uneven and perhaps even sloped, but this option should actually be considered ideal. Homeowners are given the opportunity to make the entire floor "from scratch", without removing the old coating and controlling the implementation of each stage: cleaning, sealing gaps, waterproofing, pouring the screed. A well-made floor will last for many years, and any decorative coating can be put on it.

Video - Preparing the floor for laying tiles

Stages of work

1. First you need to assess the condition of the surface: find out the magnitude of the slope and irregularities, which will determine the choice of leveling method: a slight difference in height (up to 3 cm) can be corrected with a self-leveling screed, a more serious one will require pouring a cement-sand screed, and with a significant slope (more than 10 cm ) you will need to make a screed on expanded clay so as not to overload the ceiling.
2. Now, if necessary, it is necessary to repair the base: knock down large ledges, expand, prime and rub cracks and cracks with mortar.
3. Cleaning is another important stage of renovation. The floor surface must be vacuumed to remove any particles of sand and dust that may interfere with its adhesion to the screed. It is also necessary to get rid of oil and other stains.
4. The next step is waterproofing. Usually, in living rooms, the gaps between the floor slabs, the junctions of the walls and the floor, and the space under the pipes are covered with mastic. No less popular is the option with a thick plastic film that covers the room. In the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, a more thorough approach to waterproofing will be required - it covers the entire floor with a significant overlap on the walls.

   waterproofing

5. The floor, leveled in this way, is poured with a screed suitable for the situation, and after it has completely dried, tiles can be laid. In order for the laid coating to look beautiful, symmetry must be achieved, especially if it is laid out according to the scheme and depicts some kind of pattern. This is done simply: on each side of the floor, you need to mark the middle and connect the opposite points with lines that are drawn directly on the surface. The intersection of the lines will be the center of symmetry, from which they begin to lay out the pattern.
6. Where the tile cannot be laid entirely, it will have to be cut. The easiest way is to remove straight pieces - a line is drawn in the right place with a glass cutter, and then the tile must be carefully broken along it with your hands. If a complex contour is needed, for example, at the exit of communications or the junction of pipes, then first an extra straight piece is cut off from the tile, and then a cutting line is drawn, which is also outlined with a glass cutter. Then, with the same tool, you need to draw several parallel lines inside the contour, and gently break out the tile strips with pliers.

Before you start laying the tiles on the adhesive, the floor must be primed - this will improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the screed. By the way, tiles can be laid on special glue, applying it with a notched trowel, as well as on mastic or cement mortar. Naturally, glue is preferable, since it was created specifically for this purpose. Using proven tools, you can be sure that over time, individual tiles will not fly out.

floor tiles

Old solid screed in need of minor repairs

Usually it is found under the old decorative coating: linoleum, parquet or others. Also a good option for laying tiles.

Stages of work

Old crumbling screed

This is the most unfortunate option - the old screed, which is already crumbling, will have to be removed, and completely. You need to remove not only those pieces that fall out on their own, but also those that have not yet begun to move away. This will complicate the work and require additional time and tools.

Stages of work

1. The first step is to remove the screed. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the floor. Most likely, this will require a puncher, since large pieces cannot simply be knocked down with a hammer, but they must be removed. Firstly, they will still go away one way or another, and secondly, they will interfere with the new screed.
2. After this difficult part of the work is done, it is necessary to inspect the cleaned surface, make repairs if necessary, and tidy up.
3. The next steps are already known: waterproofing, pouring a new screed and laying tiles after it dries.

Strictly speaking, a wooden floor is not the best base for tiles, so such a coating fits on it only as an exception. If under the wooden floor there is concrete base, it is better to work with it by removing the rough coating. However, for those who, for some reason, have wooden floors at home and still want to enjoy tiled flooring, there are also options to fulfill their dream.

As you know, the surface under the tiles must not only be flat, but also strong and motionless, so that bending floorboards are excluded. In addition, the tile floor is quite heavy, so you need to make sure that the existing flooring will withstand it and will not sag under the weight.

Durable wood floor

If there are no serious complaints about the floor (plank, plywood, chipboard, etc.), then only preparation of its surface will be required.

Stages of work

The only surface that can be tiled is another tile, although this should be removed as well. It's just that this process is rather difficult, and therefore it is allowed to process the old coating with emery to make it more rough. Loose tiles will have to be removed, and the resulting recess filled with tile adhesive.

So, floor tiles are a very beautiful, albeit capricious, coating. Fortunately, you can always find a way to decorate your home with it, even if it has wooden floors. Beauty will require effort, sometimes even very significant, but then it will please the residents for a long time.

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The most common type of finish for a bathroom or kitchen is tile. The relative ease of its installation, hygiene and durability are recognized by all. Such a coating does not absorb moisture, is easy to clean and maintain, if the correct waterproofing is done, then it does not allow water to pass to the lower floors in case of leakage. But preparing the floor for laying tiles requires care and scrupulousness.

The only downside tiles- the high cost of preparatory work and its installation. Therefore, so that there is no need to redo all the work, you need to properly carry out preparatory work. The basic requirements for the base on which the tile is laid are the horizontalness of the surface and its evenness.

You should also monitor the humidity in the place of work, as well as make sure that the surface is well dried before laying.

The preparation of floors for laying tiles depends on their structure, often the tiles are laid on a cement base, but there are cases when the floors are covered with plywood, vinyl or old tiles.

Benefits of a flat surface

General requirements for any type of surface for laying tiles - its horizontal. Preparing the floor for tiles requires leveling the floor before work. The device of an equal and smooth coupler guarantees that the tile will be laid correctly. We can say that a flat floor is the basis of success. Also, this will give:

• Great savings in adhesive composition.
• Reduced tiling time.
• High quality work.
• Longer service life of a tiled floor.

The average consumption of adhesive for laying tiles, depending on the brand and manufacturer of the adhesive mixture, is from 4 to 5 kg of mortar per square meter. m. These standards apply if laying is done on top of a flat screed.

Below are the options for how the floor should be prepared depending on the coating. But you must follow general rule for all types of floors - the surface of the screed on which it is planned to lay the tiles must be well cleaned, especially in the bathroom, where increased floor strength is required. This can be achieved using:

• grinders or just a grinding wheel;
• abrasive powder or mixture;
• various scraping tools.

Preparation of cement slab for tiles

In cases where ceramics have to be laid on cement screed, for example, in the bathroom, you should carefully inspect it and make sure that there are no large dents and cracks. Such defects inevitably lead to the destruction of the tile, so you should start by eliminating the identified irregularities and cracks. Apply chemicals to clean the cement surface is not worth it, as the chemistry can affect the adhesive with which you will be cladding.

By their structure, concrete bases are very convenient for tiling, you should just remember to level the surface before laying. Horizontality should be maintained very strictly, deviations should be kept to a minimum. By pouring the floor with a special self-leveling mixture, you can achieve leveling of the screed and improve the structure of the floor, achieving its smoothness.

In cases where you make a cement base yourself, you should remember that according to building codes it is necessary to withstand cement floors for about four weeks before finishing them with any kind of coating. It is also not recommended to speed up the fixation of the cement base with special means, since such compositions may not be compatible with adhesive solutions for tiles. You can lay an insulating layer on the cement coating, it will protect the tiled surface from possible cracks. At the same time, tiles are laid only using cement-based mortars.

There are cement substrates on which tiling is not recommended, especially in the bathroom. These are surfaces made of cement with additives for fast hardening. Such additives create a film on the cement base and complicate the laying of tiles. The presence of such additives in cement is determined by applying a few drops of water to the surface to be checked. If the droplets remained on the cement in balls, and did not spread over the surface, this indicates the presence of the mentioned additives in the cement.

Preparing the plywood base

Preparing a wooden floor for tiles is not a very common occurrence. The generally accepted opinion of builders says that the plywood base is poorly suited for laying tiles, because it does not have sufficient strength and stability. If the plywood sags under the weight of the tile, it may crack during use. If, nevertheless, you have no other options but to lay the tiles on the plywood, then its thickness should be at least 28 millimeters and the plywood should be laid on a sufficiently strong frame.

Since a very smooth surface is required for a firm fit of the tile, the plywood needs to be sanded additionally. In rooms with high humidity - bathrooms and toilets, it is recommended to apply an insulating layer over the plywood in the form of a screed. This coating compensates for the deformation of the wooden base under the influence of humidity and temperature in the bathroom and kitchen.

Substrate preparation with existing ceramic coating

If there is an old tile in the bathroom or in the kitchen, then there are two options for laying a new coating:

1. We cut down the old tile, after which we lay the new one.
2. We lay the new finish on top of the existing one, on the cement mortar.

In the first case, hard and painstaking work is ahead, and if the base remains uneven after removing the old coating, it will be necessary to level the floor by making a cement screed.

When applying the second option, do not forget to check how the floor height changes relative to doors and cabinets. In order for the new tile to adhere well to the old one, the latter should be treated with emery, giving its surface some roughness.

What to do with old linoleum

Experienced builders strongly recommend removing old linoleum floors, even if they are firmly glued to the floor. It should be removed together with glue residues, especially asbestos. Old vinyl coverings often contain this very harmful material. Asbestos must be completely removed from the floor surface, it is better to entrust it to professionals.

In some cases, it is possible to carry out a screed over the linoleum, then using cement-based glue, you can glue the tiles on the floor. At the same time, carefully check the compatibility of the tile adhesive with cement coating, which was laid on top of the vinyl base.

For finishing the floor in the bathroom or kitchen best material is a tile. It is great for rooms with high humidity, in addition, it is practical and unpretentious in care. To make a high-quality and aesthetic surface, you need to know how to prepare the floor for laying tiles. Features of repair work will depend on the type of foundation in the house, so it is recommended to consider each option.

Instrument preparation

Preparing the floor for tiles is a long, troublesome and rather messy process, because it often involves removing the old coating.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• level;
• brush with steel teeth;
• hammer and chisel;
• several spatulas of different sizes;
• brush-brush;
• trowel;
• rule;
• needle roller.

In addition, to eliminate the old concrete or ceramic base, you will need a puncher, and for a wooden one - a screwdriver, a jigsaw, a hacksaw. Another important tool is an electric drill or construction mixer, with which the self-leveling concrete mixture will be kneaded.

concrete base

Preparing a concrete base for laying tiles in a new home is the easiest, because it often does not need to be leveled.

The repair process is as follows:

• The first step is to clean up, and fill the existing gaps and cracks with cement mortar.
• Next, you need to take care of the waterproofing of the floor, this can be done through roll materials in the form of a film, or lubricating, like mastic. Having chosen a film, its laying must be done with an overlap on the walls. If the choice is on mastic, then it should be thoroughly smeared with the entire surface, especially the junction of the walls and the floor.
• The next step will be the screed. If the base has a large unevenness, approximately 10 cm, it is recommended to use expanded clay mixture, and in other cases a cement-sand mortar will be sufficient. The frozen screed is treated with a primer, after which you can start laying the tiles.

In old houses, concrete floors often require repair, so if there are local damages, they should be covered with cement. If the old screed is in poor condition, then it must be completely removed using a perforator, and then clean up all the bumps and cover up the cracks. Further work is carried out in the same sequence as in the preparation of a new concrete base.

wooden surface

For laying tiles, a wooden base is not the best option, because it does not differ in reliability and durability. If there is a concrete slab under the boards, as, for example, in the old "Khrushchev", then they should be removed and the surface should be filled with a self-leveling screed. In other cases, you will have to work with wood coating. The easiest way is to prepare a wooden floor that has no damage, such as rotten or failed boards.

Repair work performed in several stages:

1. The joints of the boards and all kinds of gaps fill mounting foam, and after it hardens, remove the excess.

2. Using a brush, the floor is covered with a primer to wooden surfaces. The tool is similar to mastic, both externally and in properties, so additional waterproofing is not required.

3. The primed base is covered with a reinforcing mesh, and then poured with a self-leveling mortar. It should be noted that you can use not only the store mix, but also prepare it yourself by mixing liquid glass with coarse river sand and water in a ratio of 2:2:1.

4. After the mortar has hardened, you can start laying the tiles.

The process of preparing a rotten wooden floor is much more complicated, because. he means complete replacement boards.

The repair sequence is as follows:

• Using a screwdriver, electric jigsaw or hacksaw, remove all old floorboards. In some cases, you have to use a crowbar.
• Rotten logs to which wood boards are attached also need to be replaced. Strong, undamaged elements can be left. The cavities between the lags are filled with insulating material, for example, expanded clay, foam or glass wool.
• A vapor and waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, with a slight overlap on the walls.
• As a new floor covering, plywood or gypsum-fiber sheets are used, which are attached to the logs with self-tapping screws. In order for the base to be strong enough, the material is laid in 2 layers. There should be a small space between the walls and the GVL, no more than 2 cm, which is subsequently filled with cement mortar.
• The laid gypsum-fiber sheets are treated with a primer, and after it dries, you can start tiling the floor.