How to lay laminate flooring step by step. How to lay a laminate with your own hands - step by step instructions with a photo Difficult places and final operations

Laminate is considered to be a reliable, beautiful and high-quality material that produces an attractive and durable flooring. Often, homeowners prefer to do the finishing work on their own, but you need to know how to lay the laminate with your own hands. step-by-step instruction all works are shown below. This work can be performed throughout the apartment or in one room. It is allowed to lay the laminate on a concrete floor or other types of base, previously properly prepared for this. It is not difficult to lay a laminate on your own, but it is important to carefully study all the nuances of the process in advance in order to prevent mistakes that are simply impossible to correct.

No clear and strict rules choosing the method of laying the material, it is laid by any method preferred by the owner of the premises. The property owner must take into account his preferences, it is important to assess in advance the features of the premises intended for the work.

Different laying of laminate with your own hands, the step-by-step video instructions of which are presented below, can be performed in the following ways:

along the room - in another way, this method is called in the direction of the light coming from the window. This technology of laying laminate is a classic. In the course of work all material is used as much as possible therefore the remains are minimized. This laminate laying scheme assumes the installation of each panel in one direction. Due to the direction of natural light from the window, it is provided interesting view coating, in which the joints are practically invisible;
perpendicular natural light- this technology of laying laminate is considered the most popular. Due to its use, a long coating period is guaranteed, as well as the laid laminated material withstands various mechanical influences well. Here, the joints are formed with an offset, however, the coating is laid in this way only in large rooms, since if this laminate laying technology is used in a small room, then the space will visually decrease even more;
laying laminate diagonally - this work is considered the most difficult, so it is often impossible for a beginner to complete this process. This is due to the need to trim the first and last panel in each row at a specific angle. Therefore, laying the laminate diagonally is certainly accompanied by the appearance of a large number of residues.

Laminate laying patterns

Thus, the types of laying laminate have significant differences, so it is important to decide in advance how to properly lay the laminate. To do this, the features of the premises, the preferences of the owners, as well as the need to create a unique design are taken into account. It is possible to lay laminate along or across the room, and in which direction to lay the laminate is up to the worker. If you choose the right way to lay the laminate yourself, then the limited space visually increases or important defects are hidden. Therefore, it is impossible to say exactly how to lay the laminate correctly: along or across, since everything depends on the existing conditions.

Foundation Requirements

Before laying the laminate with your own hands, it is important to assess the condition and parameters of the existing base. At the same time, there may be different types bases, differing in characteristics and material of creation. The most common options are:

concrete base - most often there is a need to learn how to lay a laminate on a concrete floor. This process is considered quite simple, but the ideal evenness of the screed is considered an important point. Therefore, quite often you first have to pay attention to its alignment. Laying the laminate on the screed is allowed only after its final drying. If the old screed is even, then it is important to make sure that the base does not contain various defects, which include all kinds of cracks or chips. They must be removed before laying the laminate. Minor defects are eliminated by creating a thin coating of special self-leveling mixtures;
wooden base - it can be represented not only by boards, but also by other coatings. For example, many people wonder if it is possible to lay laminate on parquet. This work can only be carried out if the base is even, of high quality, dry and reliable. It is important to check the quality of the wooden base, as there should be no rotten boards or other significant problems. It is allowed to lay laminate in the apartment even on plywood or other wood-based panels. It is important to make sure that there are no creaking boards on the wooden base, as they must be replaced, and often the entire flooring has to be redone. Often you need to process the surface with a grinder;
laying laminate on video on other coatings - the question often arises whether it is possible to lay laminate on linoleum or on tiles and other coatings. It is allowed to perform this work, but the base must be even and reliable. Be sure to install a suitable substrate in advance. The tile should be not only even, but also with a complete absence of breakaway areas.

Most often you have to deal with a concrete base that does not have perfect evenness. In this case, laying the laminate with your own hands is only allowed after optimal alignment.
Concrete
Wooden
On linoleum
On the parquet
On tiles

Surface leveling

Laminate can only be laid down qualitatively on a perfectly flat floor. Therefore, it is often necessary to pre-perform certain actions related to leveling the base.

An unevenness of up to 2 mm per 2 sq m is allowed. If you lay the material with your own hands on a concrete floor with numerous irregularities, the coating will warp, so it will not last too long.

The very process of leveling the base in the room is considered not too complicated, and it is implemented taking into account the recommendations:

if there are cracks and seams, then they need to be expanded, after which they are completely filled cement mortar or self-leveling mixtures, and after they dry, the floor is polished;
final leveling involves pouring a full-fledged screed, and the concrete floor will be flat and ideal for the planned work;
leveling a wooden floor consists in replacing damaged boards, and flooring can also be created over the entire surface of the room using plywood or other plates, and laying laminate on plywood is simple.

A high-quality floor on which the laminate flooring will be laid is considered the main one for obtaining a high-quality result.
alignment
Grinding

Substrate and insulating layer

Laminate laying rules indicate the need to use special insulation and underlay before creating the floor itself. The explanation for this rule is quite simple. The fact is that the laminate is afraid of constant exposure to moisture, so it is important to prevent it from coming into contact with the concrete base.

A diffusion membrane or standard polyethylene is ideal for the insulating layer, however, its thickness must be greater than 5 mm, otherwise it will be easily damaged. What needs to be done with these films? They are spread over the entire surface of the floor, and all joints are glued with adhesive tape. It is recommended that the film go a little on the walls of the room.

In addition to insulation, you need to put a substrate that performs the most important functions:

increase the soundproofing parameters of the coating;
static floor is guaranteed;
small flaws in the base are leveled;
the coating is protected from moisture.

Laying laminate on a concrete floor with an underlay is right decision, and products from expanded polystyrene or cork can be selected for the substrate. Plates or rolls are simply laid out on the surface in an even layer with the obligatory gluing of the joints. If you need to lay a laminate on a floor that already has a linoleum coating, then there is no need for a substrate.

Experts assure that the floor material should be laid with the indispensable use of soundproof boards, which increase the comfort of walking on the floor. They are usually represented by thin panels laid out around the entire perimeter of the base.
Combined
Styrofoam Polyethylene
Cork

Do-it-yourself laminate laying process

It is important to know how to properly lay a laminate? This process should be carried out only in a certain sequence of actions, where each action is an important step in obtaining the ideal result. If laying the laminate with your own hands is done for the first time, then it is advisable to watch a detailed video tutorial in advance so as not to miss the most important nuances process.

Material calculation

Initially, it is important to decide how much material needs to be prepared so that the finishing of the room with laminate is carried out without stops and problems. During the calculation, the following features are taken into account:

which method will be used, with all the methods of laying the laminate indicated above, and the lowest consumption is available when using the standard orientation;
what is the area of the room that needs to be laid with a laminate;
how much area each panel of the material has.

The calculation itself lies in the fact that the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is divided by the area of one panel.

In order to lay the laminate on the floor without any interruptions, it is recommended to purchase material with a margin of 10 percent. You need to buy tiles from the same batch, because then all the elements will have the same appearance, so there will be no excellent panels on the floor. Required measurements

Tools

How to lay a laminate with your own hands step-by-step instructions involve initial preparation necessary tools for this job. These include the following equipment:

a level or tape measure, as well as a corner, so that each tile of the coating is laid evenly and correctly;
an electric jigsaw or a sharp construction knife, which ensures even and high-quality cutting of elements;
a hammer that guarantees reliable fastening of all tiles;
sealant for laying laminate flooring.

As soon as all the tools are ready, the direct laying of the laminate begins with or without sealant.
Required Tools

Material laying

How to lay laminate flooring correctly? This process is carried out in ways that depend on the interlocks that all panels are equipped with during production. It is impossible to say how best to fix the tiles, since each method has its own characteristics:

Lock locks are represented by special latches. Here, do-it-yourself laminate flooring is laid in such a way that the crest of one panel enters the groove of the previous one. It is important to perform the process strictly in a vertical or horizontal position. To get a good joint, it is recommended to tap the tile, and it is also allowed to process the seams with silicone or glue. The use of sealant for laying laminate will protect the seams from various kinds of harmful effects;
Click locks are used in such a way that the comb is not only inserted into the groove of the previous panel, but also snapped into place, for which it is important to apply significant force for this. If you figure out how to lay a laminate with your own hands using such locks, you will ensure a high-quality and reliable result that does not require additional fixation with glue or silicone.

Interlock options

It is allowed to assemble in separate rows or tiles. It is important to understand carefully how to lay the laminate with your own hands, so that this process is carried out automatically and quickly, so your floor will be laid quickly and correctly.

The installation process itself is divided into stages:

it is important to lay the first tile with the ridge against the wall, and it is important to leave a small distance between the coating and the walls, for which wedges are laid;
another laminating element is attached to the first panel, after which this work continues until the end of the row;
in order to know how to properly lay the material, it is important to prevent a difference in height or the occurrence of gaps;
if continuous installation is carried out, then the laminate is laid without thresholds.

Thus, correctly laid material will provide a durable and reliable coating that is pleasant and comfortable to walk on. It does not matter whether a transverse or longitudinal laying method was chosen. For additional fixation, it is allowed to treat each seam with a sealant. It is advisable to watch the video of laying the laminate in advance in order to avoid any mistakes.
Step by step installation laminate
Panels must fit snugly together.

Step-by-step instructions for working in difficult places

Often you need to figure out how to properly lay a laminate in unusual and difficult areas. In this case, a smooth and beautiful coating is guaranteed.

Around the pipes

Properly placed near the pipes, the material will be resistant to impact high temperature, and no ugly effect will be created. The whole process is carried out in stages:

the distance from the pipe to the wall is determined, after which a mark is placed in the area where the hole will be located;
the diameter of the pipe is measured, after which it is necessary to take a tile in which the desired hole is created, and it should be slightly larger than the measured diameter;
standard laying of material is carried out, which ensures that the pipe is bypassed.

Skirting board installation

After the flooring process is completed, the installation of skirting boards begins. They must be selected in accordance with the color and parameters of the laid material. It is best to choose designs with internal fasteners, as they are really attractive, and also they do not have fasteners.

Various types of skirting boards suggest different kinds fastening to the wall, so you should first read the instructions. If the wall is not too smooth, then it is better to opt for plastic skirting boards. Wooden models are suitable only for perfectly flat walls.

When installing skirting boards, it is attached to special grooves, while you need to make sure that they are not on the same level with the gap between the laminate and the wall.

Thus, if you understand well how to lay a laminate, this process will not cause difficulties. Each person who has completed this work will leave only a positive comment about its complexity, since in fact it is simple and efficient. This allows you to save on the wages of employees, and also guarantees an excellent result, which will provide the required material.

To date, the laminate occupies a strong position in the market, as the most demanded floor covering.
Today we will learn how to lay a laminate, what tools are needed to complete this task.

Laminate is increasingly found not only in ordinary apartments, but also in country houses, dachas, public buildings. Why is he so attractive? The simplicity of masonry and the work performed, because even a novice master can handle this material. So, let's look at how to properly lay the laminate with your own hands.

How to properly install laminate flooring. Before laying laminate flooring, you need to prepare the flooring.

Floor preparation

To begin with, the master needs to prepare the floor surface, because with any irregularities, differences and roughness, the masonry will not go quite smoothly, and roughly speaking, we can ruin the final result.

Let's consider some rules: let's measure how even our floor is at the usual level, if there are visible irregularities, you will need to use a grinder (we are talking about a wooden floor). Also, special attention should be paid to the board, if it is normal, we get to work, otherwise we replace it.

Preparing the room for proper laminate flooring installation

If the surface of your dwelling is concrete, we work in a similar way: we measure the irregularities, level them by making new screeds, or apply a floor leveler (floor leveler).

Substrate for laminate

The next step will be forgiving the waterproofing material and the substrate. First you need to lay a waterproofing layer, they are increasingly resorting to ordinary polyethylene, the priority is price and availability. When growing a film on the floor surface, please note that the wall allowances are at least 20 cm.

waterproofing material - substrate under the laminate

An overlap between the sheets themselves is possible, approximately 15 cm. After connecting the polyethylene with adhesive tape, the master lays the substrate. As you can see, there are no particular difficulties, you are required to be attentive and accurate. Foamed polyethylene serves as a substrate, it is laid in the same way as a film - gluing, pieces together, with adhesive tape.

Do-it-yourself laminate laying rules

After purchasing building materials, do not rush to get to work. After a day, the laminate and other auxiliary material will adapt to the temperature and atmospheric indicators of your apartment, and only after that they will acquire a certain humidity, flexibility and length, and after that you can start laying it on the floor.

It is also better to stock up on a certain set of tools in advance:

roulette,
pencil or marker
jigsaw (saw),
hammer,
stationery knife or scissors,
wooden plank, about 20 cm long (for fitting panels).

It is easier to do the work with a jigsaw, because sawing by hand is a very time-consuming process.

Basic tools for laying laminate flooring

Laying laminate according to technology

After the master has completed the preparation for the direct laying of the material (laid the substrate and the plastic film), we proceed to the following: we start work from a more suitable angle for us. But, it should be remembered that the laying of the laminate is carried out purely from left to right and nothing more!

Another important point V correct styling: we take into account the angle of incidence of the sun's beam on the laminate. Therefore, the process of laying the laminate is carried out along sunlight, this will ensure the invisibility of the joints between the panels.

It is necessary to take into account the angle of incidence of the sun's beam on the laminate

It is interesting that the laminate is very sensitive to changes in atmospheric indicators (temperature, air humidity). Depending on this, it can either shrink or, on the contrary, expand, this should also be taken into account. To do this, when laying, gaps are left ( laminate wall about 8-10 mm) and install special jumpers (pegs).

Also important rule laying laminate is the correct calculation of the rows, but if the last row has a width less than usual, then cut the first and last row so that their width matches.

The first row is usually laid with spikes against the wall, cutting them with a saw or a jigsaw. Special spacer pegs are also installed (approximate thickness 8-10 mm). The ends of the panels are installed and latched with a locking connection from a narrow side.

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The spikes of the next laminate are inserted into the groove of the previous one with a slight slope, and the workpiece itself is pressed tightly to the floor.

When laying the next rows, it is necessary to provide for a shift of 25-30 cm, file a certain length with a jigsaw. Laying the remaining rows is done by analogy with 1-2 rows, alternating and shifting them higher in that order. Fix everything with a hammer and a wooden block.

To make the panel stronger and better fixed, it is possible to use a clamp in the last row. To avoid distortions and uneven masonry, it is necessary to fit all the panels of the row close to each other.

There are different types of laminates

Laminate with locks "lok" and "click" is actually a kind of "tongue". The difference is only in the principle of their fixation.

Types of laminate locks

Laminate flooring with click lock

Panels with this type of lock are installed at an angle (with an inclination), then they are pressed against the floor and knocked out with a wooden block, using a hammer.

Laminate with "lock" lock

The panel with a “lock” lock is installed in the same way, with a smaller slope, also hammering with a wooden beam.

During the laying of the laminate, the question may arise: how to lay the laminate correctly if there are pipes or protruding walls in the room? It is possible that there will be a heating riser in your room, then the laying of the laminate is carried out around the pipe.

The panel is applied to the pipe and the points of contact with the pipe are marked, then. Next, the distance from the center of the pipe to the wall is measured and everything is transferred to the panel. Thus, at the intersection of the lines marked by us, holes are drilled (larger than the diameter of the pipe, by about 2-3 mm), the smaller part of the panel is removed, and the larger part is laid and fixed with a hammer and a wooden block.

The cut off piece of the panel is lubricated from the end with a special adhesive, then it is led behind the pipe and applied to a large part of the panel, and the gaps that have formed can be masked with plugs.

In places where the laminate comes into contact with the door frame, it is laid as follows: flush with the doorway, taking into account the fact that the height of the cutout should not be more - less than the thickness of the laminate itself. The panel is cut in such a way that it partially or completely goes under the threshold of the door frame, the final step will be fixing with a clamp. For a more aesthetic appearance of the threshold itself and the absence of drops, flaws in it, it is necessary to use a special adhesive (for thresholds).

How to lay laminate flooring video

We offer you to look at an example of how to lay a laminate correctly. Indeed, its service life to its owner will depend on the correct laying of the laminate.

Laminate repair after damage

It would be appropriate to mention the prevention of damage and the repair of laminate flooring.

Usually laminate is resistant to wear, but there are no eternal building materials. Soon, various chips, scratches, cracks or swelling may appear on it. If the laminate laying technology has been violated, then the likelihood of defects increases.

We restore the laminate with our own hands

Elimination of scratches. It happens that when moving furniture, we accidentally scratched the laminate or dropped something heavy on the floor, leaving a mark. Do not be upset because everything can be fixed and repaired. If the scratches or chips are too large, it is necessary to replace the panel with a new one.
If you want to avoid scratches, resort to special felt pads (stickers) that are fixed to the legs of furniture (sofas, walls, stools), you can also put various rugs that will help save your floor.
Clean your shoes before stepping on the laminate, because the sole can stick to, for example, grains of sand and pebbles, which also contribute to scratches and chips on the laminate.
Laminate flooring should be cleaned with special detergents recommended for these purposes, otherwise the coating may be damaged (when using low-quality detergents, stains, stains may appear).
You can buy a laminate repair kit, but before you get started, make sure it can be repaired, otherwise you will have to replace the panel with a new one.
There are special assistants in eliminating scratches: wax crayons (for small defects), putties (for more severe damage). It is necessary to take into account the color of the laminate with the color of your putty, they should be identical or more similar. Sealing scratches with wax crayons will take you no more than 15 minutes of your time. Wax crayons can be purchased at any hardware store or at construction sites, as well as online stores, if you do not know what exactly you need, contact the sellers with a question about scratches on the laminate.

First you need to clean the place of the scratch with a vacuum cleaner, then cover it with wax crayon, removing excess wax with a dry soft cloth, polish the place of a small repair, the whole problem is fixed. If the scratch or chip is deeper, you need to apply a special putty.

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To repair scratches with putty, take a piece of your laminate with you as a sample and go to the hardware store together, it will be easier to match the color of the putty, remember, the quality of the putty plays a huge role, especially if the chips or scratches are too deep.

First, practice on the remaining piece, and only then proceed to fill in the defect on your coating. To do this, take a special spatula and a piece of soft, dry cloth. Fill the chip with scratch paste, wipe the excess with a rag (soft cloth), leave the repair area to dry for at least 2 hours. After the filling has dried, polish it with not too rough movements.

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Laminate is a popular hardboard flooring. A variety of decor allows you to choose it for any interior. At first glance, it is indistinguishable from parquet, but the price is several times lower. You can cut costs even more if you lay the lamellas with your own hands. It's not difficult: manufacturers have simplified the technology and made it accessible even to inexperienced users. About what nuances you need to consider and how to achieve the perfect floor, we tell further.

Choosing a layout method

An experienced craftsman will say: the right finish is laid at the design stage. It is not necessary to develop a professional drawing and make an estimate. A schematic representation of the room is enough, which shows where the doors and windows are located. If you present the final picture, it is easier to choose a layout method.

In total, there are over 50 styling options. We will not consider them all: it is unlikely that a finisher without experience will decide to use a complex method. It is enough to choose one of the three basic methods.

perpendicular to the window: if you arrange the lamellas so that the direction of the butt joints coincides with the direction sun rays, the connections between them will become invisible;
parallel to the window: the resulting shadow will emphasize the joints, but the room will seem more spacious;
diagonally: the way the owners like it.

Usually the first option is chosen. It creates the impression of a monolithic floor. The second method is suitable for long and narrow room: so you can stretch it in width. In both cases, the laminate should be taken with a margin of 5-7%. The third method is optimal if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is small or you need to divide it into zones. In this case, the stock of material must be at least 15%.

What kind of flooring can laminate flooring be laid on?

You can lay laminate on any base: concrete, tile, linoleum, etc. The main thing is to prepare it, and if necessary, strengthen it. If desired, you can even put new laminate to the old one. Of course, provided that the previous coating is in good condition.

Do not lay laminated panels on a wet or uncleaned substrate. It is forbidden to use it in baths and saunas. If you choose a coating for the kitchen, make sure that it is moisture resistant.

Laying on concrete floor

State concrete base determines how successful the installation will be. It should be:

smooth, without irregularities. Permissible height difference - 2 mm per square. meter;
protected from moisture;
sound and heat insulated.

If the old floor was dismantled, most likely, the base needs to be leveled. Usually it is enough to putty holes or remove ledges. If this is not possible, a new screed will have to be laid.

A traditional screed is suitable - made of concrete or cement. Lay 4-5 weeks: this is how long these coatings dry. To find out if you can start to mount the laminate, place a napkin on the surface. Cover it with tiles, and wait a day. The surface is ready if the napkin remains dry.

Bulk fast-hardening mixes - more modern version. Manufacturers claim that they dry in a few hours. However, we do not recommend rushing to lay the panels. It takes 3-4 days for complete drying.

When the base is leveled, you need to do waterproofing. The easiest way is to overlap a regular film and secure it with tape. The stores also have substrates specially designed for heat, hydro and sound insulation.

If you chose a four-layer laminate, you can do without waterproofing. Its last layer is made of materials that do not allow water to pass through. However, we do not recommend doing this. It is better to play it safe and lay the simplest substrate. So it will be more reliable.

Laminate flooring on wood floor

The lack of a solid floor is a creak. Over time, the nails that hold the boards loosen. Therefore, before laying the laminate, you need to strengthen the base with screws.

First, we consider how many screws are needed. To do this, we find out the number of lags in the room. This is easy to determine: look for nails or cracks in the walls. Then - we consider how many boards cover the floor in width. And finally, we multiply one number by another.

For example, in a room there are 10 logs and 30 boards. We multiply 10 by 30. It will take 300 screws and 20% in reserve.

Screws are hard to drive into wood. It is easier to drill holes 70% of their length, and only then - to pull the boards to the joists. If you have a powerful screwdriver, drilling is not necessary. He can handle the load anyway. Make sure that the boards fit snugly against the lags, otherwise they will loosen when walking.

It is more convenient to level the floor with plywood. It is enough to put the material on the base, and fasten it with the same screws in 15 cm increments. Correct the position of the plywood with a level, and do not forget to leave a gap of 10 mm near the wall.

The base is ready. You can begin to mount the lamellas.

Laying on linoleum

Linoleum is a capricious base. If it is in good condition, it will serve as an insulating lining and provide additional sound insulation. If not, the floor will deform, and the lamellas will bend. Therefore, before laying the laminate, check for defects in linoleum.

The base material must be dry and clean. If there are holes, they are glued flush with scraps of the same linoleum. See that the base is not decrepit. Otherwise, over time, it will swell, and the lamellas will bend. To prevent this, use a substrate with a thickness of 3 mm or more.

An important parameter is humidity. It is impossible to lay laminate on damp linoleum. Checking if the base is suitable for laying is easy. Lay out the polyethylene, press it down with hard objects. If after two days no condensation has formed (drops of water on the film), proceed with the installation.

The substrate is required: it is she who will prevent mechanical damage. Take cork - it is elastic, and will keep the floor smooth even after serious physical impacts.

Surface leveling

Professionals do not advise laying laminate on an uneven base for three reasons:

the service life of such a floor is less than a year;
due to constant physical exertion, the locks diverge - this will lead to the destruction of the entire coating;
when walking, the floor will creak.

To determine if there are bumps, use the level. Measure deviation. If it is more than normal, you can correct the situation with:

substrates: if the height difference is less than 2 mm per sq. meter;
base leveling: in other cases.

The easiest way to level the floor is with a self-levelling compound. Attention: this method is only suitable for a concrete base. If the base is wooden, use plywood. How to apply it, we talked about in a separate section.

A set of tools for the preparation of the basic concrete pavement self-leveling compound:

clean bucket;
putty knife;
studded rubber roller;
drill with a special nozzle designed for stirring. If there construction mixer- he will fit too;
mixture.

First, remove dirt, dust and debris from the base. Then - dilute the mixture in a bucket. Manufacturers write on the packaging in what proportions to do this. Using a mixer (or drill), mix the contents of the container. We make sure that there are no lumps, and the consistency resembles sour cream.

Pour the mixture onto the floor. Important! You need to start from the highest point of the floor: then it is easier to achieve uniformity. We distribute the composition over the coating with a spatula. We pass the roller in both directions: it will remove air bubbles. We wait until the mixture hardens.

Drying time is indicated on the packaging. However, usually manufacturers write a period after which you can walk on the coating without fear of harming it. We advise you to add a couple more days, and only then proceed with the installation of the laminate. This ensures that the floor will last a long time.

Substrate and insulating layer

The pads are made from different materials- there is an option for any budget. We tell you when you can save and when you have to spend.

jute- it is more expensive than analogues, but the performance characteristics correspond to the price. Absorbs water and removes it. Eco-friendly. To prevent the substrate from rotting and burning, antiprene is added to the composition.

Cork- does not contain synthetic substances, therefore it is chemically neutral. Well cushioned, absorbs noise, retains heat. Suitable for children's and bedrooms. You can’t save on it: if the cork substrate is of poor quality, it will begin to crumble. It is impossible to determine this by eye, but in the first days after laying the laminate will begin to creak, and then it will deform.

Polypropylene- an inexpensive material that hides the unevenness of the base well and is resistant to water. Afraid of a large static load. Due to constant influences, air bubbles burst, and the layer becomes uneven.

Styrofoam- it will last a long time if it is produced by well-known brands - Izoplin, VTM. Withstands high loads, does not pass water, has thermal insulation properties. Cons - prone to burning and is only suitable for a perfectly even base.

Coniferous- based on recycled wood, which is completely safe. The structure is porous: this provides high cushioning. Mounted quickly, and is able to level the base with height differences up to 3 mm. The disadvantage is that it is prone to the spread of mold.

The substrate is laid from the extreme wall, and the sheets of material are cut so that there is a small margin. Rolled layers creep end-to-end. If one side is laminated, it should be on top. The strips are fastened together with adhesive tape.

The material is laid sequentially, and the trajectory must correspond to the direction of the subsequent laying of the laminate sheets. Try not to stand on the coating: it can deform, and this will ruin the lamellas.

How not to:

lay the substrate close to the wall: there should be a space of 1 cm;
fasten the material tightly: the insulating layer must “float”;
use several layers for better heat and sound insulation: this deforms the laminate after installation.

Do-it-yourself laminate laying process

When all the preparatory steps have been completed, the coating has been selected, and the substrate has been laid, you can proceed with the installation of the lamellas. Let's talk about how to properly lay the coating.

Material calculation

the length of one plank is 0.64 m: we took this data from the packaging. Divide the length of the room by the length of the lamella. It turns out like this: 6 / 0.64 \u003d 9, 375. Round up to 10.
we do the same with the width: 4 / 0.31 (lamella width) \u003d 12.9. Round up to 13.
take into account the area connected to the corridor. We consider its length: 1 / 0.64 \u003d 1.56. Width: 0.4/0.31=1.29.
we count how many slats are needed for the room - we multiply the two obtained values \u200b\u200b(10 * 13), and we get 130. We do the same with the adjacent area (2 * 2 \u003d 4).
add both numbers. As a result, we will see how many panels are needed to cover the room. 130+4=134.
there are usually 8 boards in a pack, but it is better to check this information with the seller. To find out the number of packages, we divide 134 by 8. We need 15.5 packages. For reliability, we take 16: this is definitely enough.

What else you need to know when calculating:

around the perimeter you need to leave an indent of 1 cm: it is needed for depreciation;
if you plan laying in a direct way, you need a margin of 5-7%;
if you lay at an angle, the margin will be 10-15%.

Tools

Before laying the laminate with your own hands, stock up on everything you need. The minimum set includes:

hammer / mallet: used to fit the planks;
tape measure with a strong iron tip;
doboynik: suitable and normal wooden block. Needed for final padding;
stationery knife: not required, but it is easier to cut the substrate and open the packages with it;
wedges: help maintain the gap between the wall and the laminate sheet;
electric jigsaw: for cutting planks. You can use a regular saw or even a hacksaw;
metal bracket: for working with the last row;
soft lead pencil.

Material laying

Before laying the laminate, leave it to rest at room temperature for 48 hours. This time is necessary for acclimatization. Then - we begin to mount the lamellas.

The first row is laid from a long wall. It is impossible to knock on the boards so that they are connected. Do this through the bar: then the panels will not be damaged. We cut off the comb, direct the cut side to the wall, but so that there is a gap of 10-15 mm. Attention: it must be less than the width of the plinth. Place the wedges in 40 cm increments: they will not let you go astray.

We collect the first row, we attach the second to it. So we act until we get an even coating over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe floor.

When we reach the last row, we measure how much free space is left. We file the lamellas so that they fit. Then - remove the struts, install skirting boards and thresholds. Ready!

Step-by-step instructions for working in difficult places

Beginners are frightened by door jambs, pipes, batteries and other communications. Working with such places is more difficult, but in general, the technology remains the same. Planning, marking, laying - if you follow a simple sequence, everything will work out.

Around the pipes

Heating or plumbing pipes are located near the walls: this greatly simplifies installation. First, we make a template on cardboard, mark a hole for the pipe on it, and apply it to a difficult place. We adjust so as to achieve pairing. Do not forget to leave a gap of 2-3 mm so that the laminate can “walk” with temperature changes.

We shift the template to the laminated panel. We cut the hole with a jigsaw, round it with a file. We lay the board as usual, close the gap decorative overlay. Ready!

If the pipes are far from the wall, it is more convenient to use another method. We cut the panel with holes across, so that the pipes are exactly in the middle. We fasten the two halves together with building glue. The algorithm can be seen in the diagram below.

In the doorway

In order for the door to close freely, it is necessary that the distance between it and the surface of the laminate is at least 3 mm. It's best to figure this out before you even start laying. We add the thickness of the underlay and the laminated panel, and subtract the resulting number from the distance between the door and the base of the floor. Less than 3 mm left? Then choose one of two ways to solve the problem:

cut the door. The door leaf is removed and cut to fit the panel. Be careful: follow the dimensions. If you remove the excess, there will be no chance to improve;
cut laminate. The lamella is cut so that it does not come into contact with the doorway, and a margin of 5 mm is preserved near the walls. This is easier, but the result is less aesthetic.

Skirting board installation

The plinth is installed at the final stage of finishing. Before installation, it must be cut at an angle of 90 °: this will ensure the strength of the connections. You do not need to adjust all the strips at once: it is better to do this during fastening. When one element is fixed, the next one joins with it, and only then is attached.

It is impossible to attach the skirting board to the laminate itself. It is fixed to the wall. How exactly to fix the profile depends on what material it is made of. If you chose the laminated version of MDF, look at the back side - there should be a groove. A special clip is attached to the wall, the profile itself sits on it. The joints are coated with glue. Be careful: if you unsuccessfully try to fix the baseboard several times, the grooves will loosen.

A miter box is used to work in the corners. The profile is inserted with the side closest to the user, and the edge is located at the bottom of the tool. The baguette is then cut at a 45° angle. Hold the skirting firmly while cutting, otherwise the seam will be uneven, and during docking a gap will appear that cannot be repaired.

Before fixing the corner, check whether the elements fit snugly. If everything is done correctly, there will be no gaps.

Video how to lay laminate with your own hands

Laminate- widely famous name flooring, which today has gained immense popularity among the population. The main material of such a coating is high-density fibreboard. Translated from Latin, the word "laminated" means layered.

The great popularity of this material is explained by a reasonable price-quality ratio. Laminate, at its low cost, qualitatively copies an expensive floor made of high-quality wood. Laminate flooring is very easy to care for and the floor itself is durable.

Laminate is divided into several types of wear resistance. Due to the different wear resistance, the laminated coating can be laid both in residential and office premises. In addition, there is a moisture-resistant laminate that can be laid in high humidity areas, including the kitchen and even the bathroom.

The flooring market offers a variety of laminated board types, the color range and structure of which can satisfy even the most sophisticated requirements. It is worth noting that the ease of assembly of such a floor is very simple, and therefore laying a laminate becomes a trifle even for people far from construction.

In order not to waste money and a year later you don’t have to shift the entire floor in the room, you need to be very careful when choosing this flooring.

The laminate floor has a structure of several layers.

The first or top layer is a laminating layer that protects the floor from moisture and increases the wear resistance of the coating. It is the quality of the top layer of a laminated board that determines its class and is of extreme importance, which affects its cost. The higher the quality of the laminating layer, the higher the wear resistance and the price of the laminate.

Under top layer there is a layer of pressed paper that forms the pattern of the board.

The next layer is the one that guarantees rigidity to the whole board. Even lower is a layer on which all kinds of resins are applied, protecting the board structure from moisture penetration. Thus, the laminated board is environmentally friendly and quite strong.

The next most important criterion is the method of connecting the laminate.

The laminating board is fastened together with a locking system. Among the leaders in popularity is the Click system lock, in which there is a double lock, connecting at a slight angle, provides a tight fit between the boards. If necessary, an already installed laminated board with a Click system can be easily not only changed, but also completely transferred to a new place.

The Click lock system is not the only one, there is another Lock system, which is a budget option, but there may be questions about the quality of the clutch and its reliability is somewhat worse. Laying such a laminate will require effort and care, since when laying it, it is necessary to tamp the boards with a special beam for more reliable adhesion of the boards. There is also an adhesive method of fastening, but today it is no longer relevant.

Wall and floor preparation

Before laying the laminate, you need to remove the old floor covering, do not remove the right boards and fasteners, as well as a plinth. Then you need to clean the floor from debris and bumps.

Separate the baseboard from the wall with a construction knife

Before laying the laminate, it is necessary to level the floors under the level or at least under the horizon. In accordance with the technology of laying laminate, a small difference of a few millimeters for every two meters is allowed.

The next step is to purchase and lay the underlay, which serves as heat and noise insulation and also compensates for slight flaws in the flooring.

Just before laying, the laminate must be kept at room temperature in order for it to completely level. You need to check each board for defects. Later, these boards can be used for trimming along the edges of the room.

Laminate laying technology, step by step instructions with pictures

First, the substrate is laid on the floor perpendicular to the laminate, followed by laying the board without rigid attachment to the floor. This method is called floating, because the laminate can absorb moisture during its use and due to this it can expand or contract without deformation.

As a rule, the laminate is laid along the sunlight penetrating into the apartment, starting from the far corner of the room. The first row is laid with a small ledge to the wall. Special wedges are inserted between the laminated board and the wall. The thickness of the wedges should be between 8 and 10 mm. Instead of special wedges, it is allowed to use any kind of chopsticks or wooden blocks of the same thickness.

Before cutting the laminate, carefully measure the size, attach and mark on reverse side cut lines.

Be sure to take into account when measuring the presence of boats and other non-standard protrusions in the room. Prepare niches for what would then lead to them - laminate.

Only then proceed to laying the laminate.

After the first row is laid, the next one is inserted into it at a slight angle. Further, the second row smoothly descends with a slight pressure, until a characteristic click, which means the laminate is coupled. If you are laying a laminate with a Lock system, you must have a doboynik. With the help of a doboynik, with light blows with a rubber mallet, the second row is driven into the first in order to connect and snap the puzzles completely.

Now the niches prepared in advance and cut out for the laminate will come in handy:

There is a nuance that can help when laying laminate. The walls in the room, unfortunately, are uneven, for this reason it is very difficult to correct the distance of 10 mm between the wall and the laminated board with wedges. Cutting a laminated board flush with the wall is also not easy. Therefore, the first row is installed close to the wall. Next, the first, second, third rows are assembled. After that, in order to set the same indentation, wedges are inserted in the widest places so that the plinth covers the gap formed. The next step, the entire row of three or four rows is moved away from the wall. Thus, a uniform indentation between the wall and the initial row is ensured. Then the simple laying continues, as it was in the first three rows.

When laying laminate, the last board of the row will have to be cut. The length of the cut boards should be calculated taking into account the distance between the wall and the laminate.

The final touches remain, such as the installation of skirting boards and the closing of interior joints with specialized decorative profiles.

If there is a possibility of moisture ingress, the joints of the laminate can be treated with paraffin so that moisture does not get there. For this, a simple candle is suitable. She just needs to rub the joints of the laminated board, and then sweep the excess paraffin with a broom.

Do-it-yourself laminate installation video with step-by-step instructions

Below you can watch some videos that have been picked up on Youtube on how easy it is to install laminate flooring.

Laminate laying technology

Laminate installation video

Common mistakes when laying laminate flooring

Quick installation of laminate

The economic benefits of laminate flooring are not only very affordable price. Significantly reduce costs can also be due to self-laying. Developers finishing material diligently "polished" its design, trying to alleviate the fate of builders and inexperienced performers, and succeeded in achieving the goal. The technology is extremely simple, but requires home master knowledge of a number of nuances. Before proceeding with the flooring, you should find out how to properly lay the laminate, so that your own work will please you with a presentable look and long service life.

Selecting a panel layout

Success at the finish line in the field of finishing will ensure an important component of any work - design. We are not talking about a professionally designed floor project with scrupulous calculations, but about a simple drawing with the dimensions of the room to be equipped. It will help to present the final picture and choose optimal scheme layouts of planks imitating expensive walnut, birch or oak boards. We will start from the location of daylight sources, that is, from windows, since this factor is considered the main one.

In relation to window openings, laminate can be laid:

perpendicularly, due to which the direction of the long butt joints between the boards will coincide with the direction of the sun's rays, and the joints will become almost invisible;
in parallel, emphasizing the presence of seams due to the resulting shadow;
diagonally or at any priority, according to the owners, angle.

In general, laminated panels can be laid in 50 different ways if they are edged with universal locks that allow you to combine the end sides of the panels with the longitudinal counterparts and vice versa. However, there are doubts that a novice finisher will immediately take on a coating with an impressive cost, and for mastering a rather complex laying method. Therefore, we will consider the most common version of laminated planks with Lock-latches at the ends and Click-locks along the equity lines.

Most buyers of the most popular material prefer the first type of arrangement of laminated panels for understandable reasons. After all, it gives the impression of a monolithic floor without seams. The second type of direction is chosen if there is a desire to visually expand a narrow, elongated room. The third method is used if you want to optically expand small dimensions. A prerequisite for diagonal styling may be a non-standard configuration of the room or the idea of dividing into functional sectors.

It is no coincidence that we started with the location. It depends on him the amount of material required for the arrangement. You need to decide at the start how to lay the laminate in order to purchase:

for parallel and perpendicular installation of panels 5-7% more material;
for a diagonal and angled version requiring multiple cuts in laminated boards, with a margin of 15%.

On the pack, the manufacturer indicates the quadrature covered by the planks in it. The material must be purchased taking into account the pre-calculated area of \u200b\u200bthe room and with an appropriate margin.

It is necessary to plan in advance the laying of laminate boards for the following reasons:

Laminated planks will need to be cut, as the length of the panels in extremely rare cases is a multiple of the size of the room. In addition, it is necessary to displace the end joints so that the result is similar brickwork. It is unacceptable that the length of the panel segment used to complement the row be less than 30 cm. True, there are manufacturers that allow 20 cm to be used as an insert.
The multiplicity of the width of the panels to the size of the room can also be safely attributed to the category of pleasant, but rare accidents. The last row in most cases is made up of planks sawn along. According to technological requirements, its width cannot be equal to or narrower than 5 cm. However, if such a situation arises, it will be necessary to increase the width of the last row by reducing the same size of the first strip. That is, both extreme strips of the laminated floor will have to be sawn along the long edge. It is desirable to evenly distribute the covered distance for symmetry.

The offset of the end seams is a prerequisite for a reliable connection. Independent craftsmen, experienced finishers are advised to retreat from the end line of the previous row by at least 1/3 of the length of the board. We managed to find out in order to get a “brick” or “chess” order in the layout of the panels, the boards of the laminated floor will not only have to be sawn, but also alternate rows, starting with a full length and with a panel divided into parts.

You can alternate symmetrically and without observing these rules of geometry:

the symmetrical scheme of laying the slabs repeats the “pattern” of the floor most often through one, less often through two lanes;
an asymmetric scheme does not force the master to adhere to any sequence at all, the offset is formed spontaneously by setting the trimming of the last board in the first row to the beginning of the second and then by analogy.

Laying without symmetry is considered the most economical and simple. However, the master should not forget that there should be no inserts less than 30 cm in the coating he creates. Therefore, it is still necessary to draw and calculate the priority size of the offset. If the drawing reveals a segment that does not meet the technological requirements, it is better to reduce the length of the first plank of the second row.

Note. A gap must be left around the perimeter of the floor to be laid to allow the laminate to change dimensions slightly without creating billowing bumps and without damaging the locks.

When planning, keep in mind that laminate flooring expands and contracts with temperature changes. It is believed that 1 m² of coverage is increased by an average temperature movement of 1.5 mm. Taking into account the average value, depending on the size of the room, the installers leave a compensation indent, which allows the coating to lengthen and shorten, from 0.8 to 1.5 cm.

Preparing for a laminate floor

Both the material itself and the rough basis for its installation are to be prepared. The base needs to be repaired and leveled:

by grinding;
pouring cement or polymer screed;
plywood or GVLV flooring on point supports or logs.

As a result of leveling, the height level differences within a 2 m² floor area should not exceed 2 mm. Before work, the rough base is carefully vacuumed so that due to grains of sand and specks that accidentally fall into the lock joints, the panels do not make straining creaking sounds.

Laminate flooring cannot be laid on the day of its purchase, it must be given the opportunity to "get used" to the surrounding conditions. Two days should be allocated for the adaptation of the coating. Then we will release the panels from packaging, sort them by shade, if there are some “disagreements” in color. During the construction process, slabs that differ in tone will be evenly distributed so that there are no too large sections of different colors.

Note. The laminated coating should acclimatize at max air humidity 60%, min limit 50%. The optimal temperature for addiction is 18º Celsius.

During the adaptation period, the panels must be laid horizontally, stacked in the center of the room intended for decoration, so that the normal course of adaptation is not affected by the humidity of the walls.

The sequence of actions of the laminate stacker

It remains to figure out how to properly put a laminate on the prepared floor with your own hands, and proceed to implement the idea.

General order of the flooring process

Laminate flooring will be as follows:

We completely cover the concrete base with strips of polyethylene film 200 microns thick. It will protect planks made from moisture-sensitive components from water released by the base. Wooden subfloors do not need waterproofing. We lay the strips with an overlap of about 20 cm, fasten them pointwise with adhesive tape for the convenience of further work.
We lay the substrate of XPS, polyethylene foam or cork. Since the thickness of the substrate is from 2 mm or more, it must be laid end-to-end so that there are no thickenings. Mats or strips of the substrate are also attached with adhesive tape. It is desirable that the components of the multilayer floor system are laid "in a cross" with the previous and subsequent layers. It is recommended to place the underlay strips across the laying direction of the covering panels. This means that the insulating polyethylene for the concrete subfloor is laid perpendicular to the substrate, but in the direction of laying the laminate.
We assemble the starting row of laminated boards, combining the end grooves with the end tongues in the manner indicated by the manufacturer. For a perfect fit, we tap the attached panels on the opposite side with a rubber mallet or an ordinary hammer, but through a damper bar or a piece of laminate, so as not to break the locking system.
Without deviating from the technological course and from the selected layout scheme, we form the second row.
We connect both assembled rows. Together with an assistant, we insert the tongue of the second row at the angle indicated by the manufacturer into the groove of the first strip. Gradually lowering it down, pressing it until it clicks with a characteristic clicking sound.
We expose the assembled part of the floor to the wall, placing expansion wedges with a thickness equal to the expansion gap between it and the wall. You can buy these spacers or make your own from laminate scraps. We also put wedges from the ends.
We form and rally the third row with the assembled part of the floor. We act in the same way until the last row, not forgetting about the spacers.
To form the extreme strip, we measure each panel separately, applying the part turned upside down to the installation site. Piecemeal measurements will help to avoid deviations associated with the unevenness of the walls, traditional for domestic construction. Not forgetting about the deformation indent, we draw a line on the wrong side with a pencil. We'll cut off on it.
To attach and adjust the panels of the extreme row, we use a bracket. Craftsmen searching for own ways, how it is more convenient and cheaper to lay a laminate on the floor with your own hands, instead of a clamp-clamp, a hammer or a nail puller is used.

Laying near pipes, radiators, doors

In the process of laying a laminate floor, there are specific moments, such as laying panels around pipes crossing the ceiling, decorating a doorway and inserting slats under low-mounted radiators:

If the heating battery prevents the board placed under it from snapping into place, cut off part of the ridge and fasten the panel with glue.
To install the coating around the pipes on the panel, we draw their location with maximum accuracy, then we drill holes, the diameter of which should be greater than the diameter of the pipes. Next, we cut off a drilled bar along the diagonal line parallel to the end and lay its main part in the usual way, and put the insert that goes behind the pipe on glue. The remaining gaps are masked with sealant or plastic lining.
We begin the arrangement of the doorway with sawing the jambs to the thickness of the laid coating - a laminate with a substrate. In general, with the available in the opening door frame it is advised to trim the jambs before starting work, so as not to contaminate the floor and locks of the planks with dust and sawdust. Then you need to accurately measure and draw the actual configuration on the panels laid next to the jambs. We take into account that there should be a gap between the wall and the plates, but this indent must be closed with a box, that is, bring the board almost tightly under the jamb beam.

IN doorway with a threshold, we will attach the boundary line to it, without a threshold, to the line located under the closed canvas. By the way, the canvas must also be “shortened”, but the height of the plastic or aluminum transitional profile that masks the seam must also be added to the height of the coating. Similar end profiles close the expansion joints dividing the laminate floor into segments if the covered area exceeds 10.0 m in length and 8.0 m in width.

Note. The plinth installed at the end of the flooring is attached to the walls, not to the floor.

Despite the presence of some features, the process of laying a laminate floor cannot be called complicated. All the moments that arise with independent stackers are thoroughly thought out by the manufacturers of the material. It remains only to make an effort and show patience.