Among the popular indoor plants, amaryllis stands out, which is loved by flower growers with large flowers of an unusual handicap and bright colors. Especially valuable is its ability to bloom in the most "gloomy" time - in late autumn. Unpretentious amaryllis, home care for which is completely simple, will suit even beginner gardeners. To grow this "exotic" on your windowsill, it is enough to know a few simple rules for care.

Amaryllis (Amaryllis) - herbaceous perennial bulbous flowers belonging to the genus monocotyledonous, family Amaryllis. The leaves are basal, oblong, linear and smooth, dark green; placed in two rows.

Flower arrows are high, up to 60 cm, powerful; crowned with umbellate inflorescences with 4-6 (sometimes up to 12) flowers. The diameter of the bell flower reaches 20 cm. During the flowering period, which begins before the leaves appear, the plant throws out 2 peduncles. Natural amaryllis rarely blooms at home, so numerous easier-to-care hybrids have been created.

To everyone who grows this indoor flower, it should be remembered that the amaryllis bulb is poisonous. Touching it may cause irritation. All transplant work is carried out exclusively with gloves, and the plant is positioned so that children and pets cannot reach it.

Amaryllis varieties

Modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis are striking in diversity. Breeders are working to increase the size of the flower, obtaining original colors.

• Lovers of bright accents will love red-hued amaryllis. These include the magnificent Grand Diva variety with large (up to 18 cm) double flowers of cherry red color. The pistil and stamens are colored in the same way, so only light spots of stigmas stand out against the background of the flower.
• The Ferrari amaryllis variety, which is distinguished by an unusual, deep red-orange tint of petals, also attracts attention.
• The original Amaryllis Exotic Peacock is a double star with pointed scarlet petals. In the center - white prints, repeating the shape of a petal and smoothly turning into strokes on a scarlet field.
• Another hybrid of domestic amaryllis, Gervase, is attractive with bright scarlet and cherry stripes and strokes, arbitrarily “applied” to the white field of petals.
• No less loved are white and pink amaryllis - tender and graceful. A large-flowered (up to 18 cm in diameter) hybrid of Amaryllis Apple Blossom, the petals of which are painted white with pale pink veins, is distinguished by the original greenish color of the neck.
• Elvas also attracts attention - a long-flowering terry hybrid with white pointed oval-shaped petals, “decorated” with a clear raspberry edging and pink-raspberry specks in the center of the petal.
• Amaryllis Aphrodite is distinguished by its delicate color. This is one of the most large-flowered hybrids - 20 cm double flowers white color outlined with pink edging and covered with delicate pink touches.
• It is difficult to pass by such a hybrid as Double Dream. Its huge, double flowers are an ardent pink with darker veins.
• White lovers should pay attention to the Pikoti variety. This non-double hybrid is attractive with snow-white petals, each of which is “circled” with a scarlet edging, clear and thin.
• An unusual pinkish-coral shade of strokes that densely filled the white field is distinguished by the terry amaryllis Giant Amadeus.

Optimal growing conditions

Like any bulbous houseplant, amaryllis has a pronounced dormant period, during which the aerial part dies off completely. Accordingly, depending on the phase of development, the agricultural technique of growing at home is completely changing.

	Lighting	Watering	Temperature
Active growth phase	Bright diffused light. The most suitable windows will be western and eastern orientation; on the southern window sills, shading from direct sunlight will be required. On northern window sills, amaryllis will bloom only if there is a 14-hour light.	Watering with partial drying of the earthy coma. That is, between waterings, you need to let the top layer of the earth dry out, in no case allowing the coma to dry completely. Water is used only settled (at least a day in an open container) and heated to 20-25 degrees. When watering, it is important not to wet the bulb and especially the growing point. Spraying is not required.	Does not like sudden changes; the optimal range is 18-24 degrees.
Resting phase	Lighting is not required.	The bulb is not watered; once every 2 weeks, the earth is sprayed with water.	Requires cool content (10-12 degrees).

In addition, the plant is protected from drafts, while avoiding air stagnation, especially at high humidity. If you follow these simple rules, growing amaryllis will not cause trouble.

How to plant amaryllis

The key to successful growing amaryllis at home is proper planting. With the wrong selection of a pot or soil, the bulb will not be able to bloom luxuriantly and profusely, or even begin to rot.

Pot selection

The diameter of a suitable pot directly depends on the size of the amaryllis bulb. She prefers to sit in a cramped space, so the planting container is chosen so that no more than 5 cm remains between the bulb and the walls. At the same time, the amaryllis has a fairly powerful root system, which means that the pot must be deep.

The material from which the pot is made is also important. A narrow and tall plastic container will be too unstable for amaryllis with its long spreading leaves and tall peduncles. Accordingly, a ceramic pot is more suitable. It can be glazed or not: opinions differ on what is best for the plant. In glazed pots, oxygen access to the roots is limited; Pathogenic microorganisms accumulate and intensively develop in numerous pores of unglazed containers.

Soil selection

The most suitable soil for amaryllis is a mixture of equal parts of leaf and sod land with river sand. Some flower growers add humus to the mixture. The soil must be sterilized before use: pour a small amount of water and boil for an hour. It is enough to wash the sand to clean water. Can be used for planting ready soil purchased from the store.

Planting process

Before planting an amaryllis bulb, it is checked for damage: cracks, soft dents, dark spots, or other signs of fungal disease or rot. Damaged areas, if any, are cut to healthy tissue. The place of the cut is sprinkled with foundationazole or crushed charcoal.

The bulb is cleaned of dead scales. They differ from white or greenish live ones by a darker brownish tint. Before planting, it is immersed in a fungicidal solution for several minutes. It is best to cook it on the basis of fundazole; Copper oxychloride is also suitable. The preparations are diluted in water according to the instructions on the package. If fungicides are not on hand, a saturated solution of potassium permanganate can be used. It is not advisable to use biological preparations for pre-planting treatment (Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Pervikur). After disinfection, the bulbs are thoroughly dried.

Pour 2-3 cm of drainage (expanded clay) into the pot and fill it with soil to half. The bulb is placed in the center of the pot with a blunt end down and fall asleep two-thirds. The soil is compacted, watered. You can plant several amaryllis in a pot. In this case, there should be a gap of at least 10 cm between the bulbs.

How to care for amaryllis

The rules for caring for amaryllis at home vary significantly depending on the growth phase.

During the dormant period

The fact that the plant is preparing to move to the dormant stage can be judged by the yellowing and dying leaves. During this period, they begin to gradually reduce watering and top dressing. As soon as the amaryllis has completely faded and dropped last page stop watering. Usually the plant falls asleep in the horse of October - early November.

A little secret that guarantees lush bloom at home next season: Amaryllis should not be "helped". Many novice flower growers strive to quickly get rid of unattractive withered leaves and cut or cut them off the plant, not knowing that in this way they weaken the bulb. The leaves, dying, give it all the nutrients accumulated during the growth period, which are necessary both for rest and for future awakening. Therefore, the leaves are harvested only after they are completely dry and easily separated.

For good rest the bulb needs 2-3 months. In case of violation of agricultural technology on this tap, it can wake up earlier, which will affect both the further development of the rosette and flowering. More often, the bulb is left in a pot, which is placed in a cool, dry, dark and well-ventilated place. You can dig it out. In this case, the bulb is cleaned and placed in wooden or cardboard boxes filled with peat, coconut fiber or sawdust.

From the moment you move to winter holidays, caring for amaryllis comes down to regular (1 time in 2 weeks) spraying the substrate with a small amount of water from a spray bottle. To wake up, the bulb is transplanted into a fresh substrate, placed in a lighted place and watering is increased.

During the period of active growth and flowering

Amaryllis care after waking up can be divided into two stages: before and after the appearance of the flower arrow. A freshly planted bulb is watered moderately, trying not to overmoisten, until the first sprouts hatch.

After the arrow appears:

1. The plant begins to be watered in the usual way (with drying of the top layer of the earth), avoiding water on the bulb. The lack of moisture during this period can lead to the fact that the flower begins to wither without opening; too much will cause it to rot.
2. Care and cultivation of indoor amaryllis at home involves the application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers every 2 weeks. You can use any fertilizer for flowering plants or specialized top dressing for bulbs.
3. Organic fertilizers (manure, humus) are not desirable. In addition to the fact that undecayed residues can cause the death of the bulb, they contain too much nitrogen, and there is practically no phosphorus and potassium needed by the bulb.
4. After the opening of the first bud, fertilizers begin to be applied weekly.

Flowering at home lasts from 2 to 4 weeks; after it ends, leaves begin to appear. Healthy strong bulbs can form 2 flower arrows. If there are more of them, it is better to remove the “extra” ones, since too abundant flowering depletes the bulb. After the buds wither, the peduncle is not cut off until it turns completely yellow - so the nutrients in it pass into the bulb. Caring for an amaryllis flower after flowering, when it forms a rosette, is no different, except that top dressing is reduced to 1 time per month.

Reproduction of amaryllis at home

There are several ways to propagate amaryllis:

• from seeds;
• children;
• dividing the bulb.

Each of them has its own nuances.

seeds

Amaryllis propagate by seed, but this is a technically complex and time-consuming process. It is used mainly to obtain new hybrids; at home, the use of this method is impractical. To see the results of pollination, the seeds "grow" to the size of a bulb ready for flowering within 7-8 years.

To get the seeds for the pestle mother plant With a soft brush, apply pollen taken from another "parent". The box formed at the base of the peduncle will ripen within a month. Seeds immediately (they quickly lose their germination) are sown in a mixture of peat and sand and placed in a container protected from sunlight. Humidify if necessary from a spray bottle. After a few months, the seedlings are seated in separate pots.

dividing the bulb

The division method at home can only be used if the bulb is large enough and absolutely healthy. With a sharp non-kitchen knife, the sleeping onion is cut into several parts so that each part of the bottom with roots remains. Slices are sprinkled with crushed charcoal, dried. Slices are planted in washed sand. Before the germination of the first leaf, they are watered moderately and kept warm (not lower than 25 degrees). After the appearance of the first pair of leaves, the delenki are transplanted into a substrate common for amaryllis.

child bulbs

The simplest and safest methods include reproduction by children, or daughter bulbs. If the plant is healthy and receives enough nutrition, the mother bulb begins to divide itself. Babies are dropped off only when they are strong enough. For transplantation, use the same land as for the mother plant. When separating and transplanting, it is important to damage as few roots as possible. The place of the "gap" is sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Children cannot be separated if the plant is about to retire. In this case, it is better for them to stay with the main bulb until they wake up. Already separated "daughters" are in no case sent to "sleep" in the first year - they do not have enough strength to wake up. Therefore, the pots continue to be watered and fertilized as usual throughout the winter.

Transfer

For those who take the bulb out of the pot every time it falls asleep, an amaryllis transplant is not needed - formally it is carried out annually. Those who leave her to sleep in a pot need to completely change the soil every 3-4 years and increase the volume of the planting capacity. Sometimes it becomes necessary to transplant amaryllis during the active phase: the bulb can grow so fast that the pot becomes small for it.

The transfer algorithm is simple:

1. The plant is removed from the pot along with a lump, the roots are shaken off the ground.
2. Dry or rotten roots are cut with a sharp knife, slices are sprinkled.
3. The bulb is cleaned of rotting scales, "daughters", if any, are separated.
4. The bulb is placed in a suitable pot and fresh soil, watered. Old substrate and drainage cannot be reused.

Even if amaryllis does not need to be transplanted, it is replaced annually upper layer soil in which salts are collected, replacing it with fresh.

Diseases and pests

Amaryllis is affected by almost all "indoor" pests: spider and onion mites, thrips, mealybugs, scale insects, and aphids are happy to settle on it. If the plant is affected by insects, insecticides are used to get rid of them (Aktara, Spark, Actellik); ticks are removed with the help of acaricides (Neoron, Kleschevit). Springtails or podura may also appear in pots - this means that the plant has been poured, the process of decay has begun in the roots. Reduce watering and treat the soil with fungicides. If the root system recovers, springtails will disappear on their own.

It is more difficult to treat fungal and infectious diseases of the bulb. Amaryllis can suffer from stagonosporosis and various rots. In the first case, small red spots or a border on the scales become noticeable. In the second - soft grayish or brownish spots on the leaves or bulb. In both cases, fungicide treatment is required - foundationazole or copper oxychloride. The main salvation from any disease is the correct agricultural technology.

Why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it bloom

Sometimes amaryllis does not bloom at home for several years.

There may be several reasons for this:

• deep landing;
• a spacious pot - in this case, the plant will “prefer” to spend energy on the formation of daughter bulbs;
• lack of phosphorus and potassium;
• lack of light during germination;
• lack of heat;
• root rot or pests;
• a young bulb that does not yet have enough strength to bloom.

The best way to “make” amaryllis bloom is to thoroughly observe agricultural practices and regularly feed.

Differences Between Amaryllis and Hippeastrum

Amaryllis is often confused with its related hippeastrum. The difference between these plants is insignificant, but still there:

1. Amaryllis usually blooms in August-September, and hippeastrum - in late February.
2. Amaryllis has a pronounced aroma.
3. Hippeastrum flowers are smaller, their number on the peduncle is less, and the flower arrow itself is higher.
4. In amaryllis, leaves appear only after the peduncle.
5. Amaryllis has a pear-shaped bulb with ash-gray scales, while hippeastrum has a round, slightly flattened laterally, whitish or greenish scales.

Amaryllis is a bulbous indoor plant with a high peduncle, reaching a height of up to 50 centimeters and consisting of 3-6 large inflorescences. Amaryllis flowers come in a variety of hues and fascinate flower growers with their extraordinary beauty.

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, a number of rules regarding its maintenance should be observed. Strictly following them, even a beginner will be able to grow this unusually beautiful flower without much difficulty.

Types and varieties of amaryllis

- is a flower belonging to the family of monocotyledonous bulbous plants. The diameter of the bulbs can reach from 5 to 10 centimeters. Amaryllis leaf plates are narrow, long, bright green. They appear in early autumn under normal conditions, and in cold climates in March. Leaves die off in May.

Peduncle plant throws out in August. Twelve buds of white, red or pink shade appear on it, which turn into large beautiful flowers. The flowering time of amaryllis lasts about two weeks.

- in nature, the plant grows in Brazil. Its height is up to 60 centimeters. The bulb has an oblong shape and a diameter of up to 10 centimeters. Peduncle tall, grey-green. Often, two inflorescences are formed on it, resembling an orchid. The flowers are large, apple-green or cherry-brown striped. Leaf plates are narrow, long green.

- the height of the plant reaches 50 centimeters. Inflorescences are large orange, but can be red, pink, white and cherry. The bulb has a diameter of up to 12 centimeters. Leaf plates are long, lilac type.

- is a perennial bulbous plant. The bulb has a rounded or rounded conical shape. Lily type leaf plates have a dark green tint. The peduncle reaches a length of 35 to 80 centimeters. The inflorescences are large, tubular, with a red, cherry, pink or orange color.

The plant reaches a height of up to 60 centimeters. On the peduncle bloom from 4 to 6 large, raspberry-colored flowers. Leaf plates of a dark green shade, lily type. The flowering time of the plant is May and December.

- the bulb of the plant has a diameter of 10 to 15 centimeters. From it grow two peduncles up to 50 centimeters long with 5 white inflorescences with red stripes and specks. Leaf plates are long, green, lilac type.

- Amaryllis of this variety reaches a height of 50 centimeters. Large inflorescences appear on the peduncle in the amount of three pieces. The flowering of the plant begins from 10 weeks after planting in the substrate. The inflorescences are creamy with pink stripes. The edges of the petals have wavy edges. The leaf plates of the belt of a prominent type are distinguished by glossiness and a dark green tint.

- the length of the peduncle of this variety reaches 60 centimeters. 3 large inflorescences of a snow-white hue with wavy petals and a pleasant aroma appear on it. The bulb of the plant has an oval or rounded shape with a diameter of up to 10 centimeters. Leaf plates are long, glossy green.

- the bulb of the plant has a rounded shape and a diameter of up to 12 centimeters. A peduncle of medium thickness grows from it, on which large inflorescences of a white-pink hue with a pleasant aroma and rounded petals are formed. The leaves are green, glossy, long, prominent belt type.

In height, the culture reaches 60 centimeters. On the peduncle appear from 2 to four large flowers of a red hue with wavy petals. The flowering period of amaryllis lasts from late summer to mid-autumn.

- the peduncle of the plant reaches a height of 60 centimeters. It blooms from two to four luxurious, large flowers with a large number of white petals with orange stripes. With good care, the plant blooms twice a year.

- the bulb of this plant variety reaches a diameter of 8 to 12 centimeters. A peduncle grows from it, on which from 3 to 5 large red inflorescences with a light pleasant aroma are formed. The leaf plates of the amaryllis of this variety are long, bright green, belt type.

- this variety is distinguished by dense linear-lingual, long leaf plates of a dark green hue and luxurious, lush peach-colored flowers resembling peonies. The inflorescences are not only beautiful, but also smell very pleasant. Plant height reaches 60 centimeters. From one bulb grows up to two peduncles with 4-6 buds.

- a variety of this amaryllis reaches a height of up to 60 centimeters. On the peduncle, from 2 to 6 large inflorescences of a white hue with wavy petals and the aroma of expensive French perfumes are formed. Amaryllis blooms in late summer. Lily type leaf plates reach up to 30 centimeters in length and have a dark green tint.

The plant reaches a height of up to 60 centimeters. On a long peduncle, from 4 to six large inflorescences are formed with double petals of orange, red and white. The leaf plates of amaryllis are long, belt-like, dark green. The bulbs are large, their diameter is from 12 to 15 centimeters.

- is a bulbous perennial. The bulb has a rounded or rounded-conical shape. Dark green belt-type leaf plates reach up to 70 centimeters in length. Large flowers of various shades with a delicate, pleasant aroma bloom on a long peduncle.

- the height of the peduncle of the plant reaches 70 centimeters. It blooms up to 4 large, luxurious cream-colored inflorescences with a pleasant aroma. Flowering time occurs at the end of summer and lasts up to one month. Leaf plates have a dark green tint and glossiness. They die off at the end of autumn with the onset of a dormant period in amaryllis.

- the bulbs of the plant reach a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. The leaf plates of amaryllis are long, green, lily type. The peduncle grows up to 60 centimeters long. It blooms up to 4 large inflorescences of a pink hue with wavy petals. Flowering time from May to June.

Amaryllis home care

This luxurious flower is characterized by unpretentious care. However, in order for him to please with his unusual colors, you should follow the rules for caring for him, trying to create for him such a microclimate as in a natural environment. If the plant feels comfortable, then it will bloom twice or even thrice a year.

Humidity is not of great importance for the crop, but to avoid pest attacks, the leaf plates should be wiped with a sponge and sprayed once a week. Such manipulations should be abandoned at the time of flowering of amaryllis. Do not spray bulbs that are at rest.

Amaryllis likes scattered bright sunlight, so it should be grown in a southeast or southwest window. So that the peduncle does not reach for the sun, the pot needs to be turned from time to time.

The most comfortable temperature for a plant is considered to be from 18 to 25 degrees. When the bulbs are in a dormant period, the temperature should be reduced to 10-12 degrees.

Hippeastrum is also a member of the Amaryllis family. It is grown when caring at home without much hassle, if you follow the rules of agricultural technology. You can find all the necessary recommendations in this article.

Watering amaryllis

In summer, amaryllis should be watered only when the substrate dries. When the plant has a dormant period, watering is reduced, spending them a few days after the soil dries.

If the bulbs were moved to the basement, then watering should still be reduced in order to prevent acidification of the soil. It should be noted that water should be added under the bulb, and not on it.

soil for amaryllis

The soil that suits amaryllis can be made independently.

An ideal soil option for a plant would be a mixture of leaf and sod soil, humus, peat and sand in equal proportions.

Amaryllis transplant

Usually a plant transplant is required once a year. This frequency will allow the grower to study the condition of the flower bulb.

It is extremely important to carry out a transplant according to the rules, since non-compliance with them can lead to a lack of flowering of the plant. For planting, you should not pick up a pot that is too spacious, otherwise the amaryllis simply will not bloom. The ideal distance between the walls of the pot and the bulb should not be more than three centimeters.

When transplanting the bulb into the ground, it should be buried in the ground with a mixture of only half, leaving the second half and the top above the ground. Also, one should not forget about the drainage layer, which can be formed from fine expanded clay.

Fertilizer for amaryllis

It is necessary to fertilize the plant only during the flowering and growth period. Top dressing is carried out once every ten days.

Mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 should be taken as a fertilizer.

amaryllis bloom

Flowering time depends on the plant variety. Some plants bloom in summer, some in autumn, and there are those that bloom in winter. To prolong flowering, it is necessary to keep the flowerpot with amaryllis in a cool place, out of direct sunlight.

After the first inflorescence opens, the peduncle can be cut off and placed in a container of water. There are no differences in the duration of flowering in water and on the bulb. However, due to cutting, it is possible to reduce the depletion of the bulb and stimulate the appearance of a new peduncle.

The inflorescences of the plant are large with a pleasant aroma. Their petals have wavy or straight edges. The color scheme can vary from white and cream to red and pink with stripes and flecks. Amaryllis blooms for 15-20 days.

During flowering, the plant needs light and abundant watering. The earthling must be moist, but at the same time it is necessary to ensure that the water does not stagnate in the pot, otherwise the bulb will begin to rot.

Amaryllis pruning

After the plant has faded, the leaf plates and shoots die off on their own, they do not need to be cut.

Caring for amaryllis in winter

Usually, the dormant period of the plant begins in the cold season and lasts for two months. You can understand that the plant hibernates by dropping the leaf plates and dying off the peduncle. At this point, watering should be reduced to a minimum and stop fertilizing.

Then the pot, along with the bulb, must be transferred to the basement, where the temperature should not exceed 16 degrees. Ideally temperature regime should be 10-12 degrees. Moisten the soil in which the bulb is located should be as it dries completely.

After the release of amaryllis from hibernation, care for the plant is carried out in the same way as during the growing season.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

This method is quite laborious, besides, it does not allow to preserve the varietal qualities of the crop, for this reason it is rarely used for home breeding. However, if the grower nevertheless decided to try, he needs to do the following.

Perform artificial pollination of flowers with a brush. Two months after the cracking of the seed pods, it is necessary to collect the seeds. Dry them and spread them on a light, airtight moistened soil and sprinkle a thin layer of earth mixture on top. Planting seeds should be carried out from January to February.

The box with seeds should be kept in a warm place under the film until seedlings appear. After the young plants have leaves, they should be seated in separate pots. Such amaryllis will bloom only after seven years.

Reproduction of amaryllis by children

When transplanting an adult plant, it can be propagated with the help of children. For this purpose, children with roots should be separated from the bulb using a knife. Sections must be treated with charcoal.

A small bulb should be planted in a separate container with the earth with a mixture for amaryllis and put in heat for the rooting period. Three years after planting young plant will start to bloom.

Amaryllis reproduction by dividing the bulb

This method is the most popular and in demand among flower growers. To propagate a plant using bulbous division, you should take an onion, peel it from scales and divide it into four parts.

Then each of them must be immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection. After half an hour, each part of the bulb should be planted in the substrate, plunging them 1/3 into the ground. Until full rooting, the bulbs should be kept in a warm place.

Reproduction of amaryllis scales

To use this method of reproduction, you should take the bulb, divide it into several parts, separating the scales. Then they must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal and planted in a substrate for growing amaryllis.

Three months later, young bulbs will begin to form. Mineral fertilizers and maintenance in warm conditions will help speed up their appearance.

Amaryllis diseases

With improper care of the plant, it is exposed to a number of diseases and pests.

The most common amaryllis diseases are:

fungus - upon discovery red spots on leaf blades, bulb or inflorescences or completely reddened leaves , the plant must be urgently treated with "Fundazol" and reduce watering.

Pale leaf plates - loss of bright green decorative coloring of leaves, occurs due to stagnation of moisture in the soil. To cope with this problem, transplanting amaryllis into a breathable soil with a good layer of drainage will help.

Anthracnose - at the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves the plant should be treated with Actellik fungicide, as well as reduce watering and spraying frequency.

Amaryllis pests

Of the pests for the plant, the following insects are dangerous:

spider mite - you can notice the appearance of this dangerous insect by the appearance of cobwebs on leaf plates . You can get rid of it by spraying the flower with the Kleshchevit insecticide.

onion mite - this insect feeds on the amaryllis bulb, as a result of which the plant grows poorly and ceases to bloom. If it blooms, then the flowers turn out to be deformed, and the leaf plates turn yellow and fall off. Pest control should be done in the following way. The amaryllis bulb should be dug out of the pot and dipped in hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees for two minutes, after which it should be treated with the Keltan preparation.

amaryllis mealybug - feeds on the bulb, leading to its fading and appearance of a dark plaque on the scales . To destroy the worm, the bulb should be treated with the Aktara insecticide.

Aphid - the insect feeds on the juice of the leaves, causing them to turn yellow . It can be destroyed by treating the plant (peduncle and foliage) with a solution of 20% ethyl alcohol.

thrips - these pests affect leaf plates, leading to the appearance of multiple dark dots on them . To get rid of pests, you should disinfect the plant, transplant it into a new pot and soil, and then treat it with Fitoverm insecticide

Shchitovka - when a shield appears leaves are covered with sticky juice and dark spots which are actually insects. You can get rid of them by treating the plant with Actellik.

To prevent the occurrence of all of the above diseases, it is enough to properly care for amaryllis and such problems will bypass the flower.

Possible Difficulties When Growing Amaryllis

Many flower growers face a number of problems when growing this unusually beautiful plant, which include:

• No flowering - amaryllis may stop blooming due to a too loose pot, a strong deepening of the bulb in the ground, a lack of fertilizer, a small amount of light and heat, rotting of the root system, lack of a dormant period, youthfulness of the bulbs, and pest damage.
• Yellowing leaves - causes damage to aphids in the plant.
• Leaf reddening - the defeat of amaryllis by an ailment of fungal etiology leads to reddening of the leaf plates.
• Leaf drooping - such a problem occurs as a result of a violation of the irrigation regime and excessive soil moisture.

After the cause of the loss of decorativeness by the plant is identified and eliminated, amaryllis will regain its former luxury and beauty in the shortest possible time.

Amaryllis signs and superstitions

Large and beautiful inflorescences of this exotic plant can decorate any interior and bring positive energy into the home atmosphere. Amaryllis translated into Russian means proud and impregnable. Popularly, this beautiful flower is called the “naked girl” due to the fact that often the peduncle with inflorescences appears much earlier than the dark green leaf plates.

There is an opinion that it is better to grow amaryllis in the open field, and not in a pot on the windowsill, as it can harm not only pets, but also humans. What exactly is its value?

The plant of this family is poisonous. It contains a substance such as lycorine, which, if ingested, causes severe poisoning and vomiting. Therefore, when growing this flower, it should be kept away from animals and small children in order to avoid trouble.

Amaryllis Feng Shui

According to this ancient Eastern philosophy, amaryllis is a representative fire element. It is especially pronounced in plants with red flowers. This exotic flower brings joy and material well-being to the house, and health and harmony to the inhabitants of the house.

It is better to place amaryllis in that part of the house that is hidden from prying eyes. Most of all, the plant is impressed by the kitchen. Here it must be placed on the windowsill so that the amaryllis begins to saturate the surrounding space with positive energy.

By its nature, the flower is a loner and does not tolerate other plants next to it. The only exception is aloe and fern, which can create a wonderful energy tandem with it.

Amaryllis magic

The most important magical possibility of a flower is the fulfillment of desires. To fulfill your innermost dream, you should wait until the amaryllis releases a peduncle with buds. Then you need to choose one of the unblown flowers, touch it and make a wish.

The plant will help in the fulfillment of dreams regarding love, health, travel and personal growth. After the wish is made, you should thank the flower and continue to care for it.

If the bud on which the wish was made blooms before the rest, this means that the universe has heard the grower's request and will soon fulfill it.

Conclusion

Amaryllis is an exotic that is quite easy to grow at home. It is enough to observe simple rules plant care and it will constantly delight you with luxurious flowers, filling the air with a pleasant aroma.

In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, amaryllis leaves naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a dormant period, amaryllis and hippeastrums begin to grow leaves again, and the peduncle and buds are laid.

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Preparing amaryllis for a dormant period

The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. In hippeastrums, a dormant period occurs after the plant has faded, because hippeastrums can be driven out at any time of the year, and not just at the end of summer or early autumn. Early forcing in the fall or late is possible - then the hippeastrum blooms at the end of winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.

But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a dormant period. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The remaining varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum for the summer in the ground, then you need to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

Leaves are a source of nutrients

However, the bulb after the flowering of amaryllis is not immediately dug up, you must first let the leaves perform important work- supply the bulb with nutrients.

In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and allow it to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, while giving all the strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. When the leaves turn completely yellow and die off, the plant will go dormant on its own.

Wintering of amaryllis and hippeastrums

The main dormant period for amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted for the summer in open ground, then amaryllis after flowering must be dug up and transplanted into a pot even before frost.

Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to transplant these flowers every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily endure frost, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.

But if you decide to take the hippeastrum into the house for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature in the range of 10-18 ° C.

Temperature conditions for amaryllis (hippeastrum)

At rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is around 15°C, but a temperature of 10°C is also considered acceptable, and the upper figure is 18°C. If it is cooler, the bulb may get sick, and if it drops below 5 ° C, it may die.

Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5 ° C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. More heat than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.

This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, namely, complete rest guarantees the laying of a healthy flower arrow.

During dormancy, watering the bulb is only necessary so that it does not dry out - once a month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into the pan so that in conditions of cool air and excess water, the bulb does not rot.

You will know that the recovery period is over when the flower arrow appears at the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and top dressing should be started only after this arrow stretches to 10 cm. From this moment, a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.

It blooms exclusively in the second half of winter, it is necessary to adhere to the seasonal rules for the maintenance of this flower. There are few such rules, but still they exist, and this is especially true winter period. To understand some of the features of such seasonal, let's step by step trace the entire life cycle plants.

1. The germination of the bulb begins with the appearance on its bottom of plump light color roots.
2. After rooting, active growth of a powerful and strong peduncle begins.
3. When the peduncle reaches a certain length, inflorescences form on its top and their successive (sometimes simultaneous) opening occurs, that is, the plant begins to bloom.
4. At the end of flowering, the peduncle gradually fades, and the amaryllis begins to actively grow foliage.
5. Starting from mid-September and until spring, amaryllis begins the so-called dormant period.

Many indoor plant lovers are not fully familiar with how to properly prepare this flower for winter hibernation. Consider what and how to do.

Read about the nuances of planting and growing amaryllis, as well as the rules for caring for a flower.

Condition during the winter

As mentioned above, within 7-8 months, the amaryllis has a period of active vegetation. During this time, the bulb of the plant gives all its strength, first to the pasture of a powerful and fleshy peduncle, then to a two-three-week flowering, after which all the remaining forces go into the growth of also quite powerful and large leaves.

It is not at all surprising that after such a vegetative "marathon" the plant needs a certain period of time to recuperate.

The dormant period is simply necessary for amaryllis to restore the bulbs to subsequent growth and flowering cycles.

Exactly like this dormant period occurs in amaryllis in the second half of September, when the plant sheds all the extended foliage, slows down the vegetative processes and prepares for wintering.

On its own, a plant cannot completely stop the internal growth processes, so it needs the help of a grower.

How to store?

Once we notice that the foliage of the plant begins to lose its usually pronounced dark green color and wither, the amaryllis must be immediately helped to go into a dormant stage.

Conditions

The temperature regime for wintering amaryllis bulbs should be such as not to allow vegetation processes to start. The temperature should be within + 2 + 15 degrees. one more necessary condition there should be a lack of light and low humidity in the room where the amaryllis will winter.

Step-by-step instruction

If the flower is not helped to enter the dormant stage, its growth and the formation of new leaves will continue, which will greatly weaken the bulb and within 1-2 years the plant will lose its ability to bloom (read about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it release buds) . To do this, you need to take the following measures:

1. gradually stop or minimize the watering of the flower;
2. when all the leaves turn yellow and sag, they must be completely cut off, and the bulb should be moved to a dark and fairly cool place (pantry, basement, not very heated garage, etc.).

I would like to point out very common mistake amateur flower growers who send amaryllis to rest without removing the bulb from the ground, that is, along with the pot. This is strongly discouraged. After the complete withering of all the foliage on the plant, it must, as already mentioned a little higher, be completely removed.

After that the amaryllis bulb should be carefully removed from the pot along with the planting soil. Then you need to carefully free the rhizomes of the plant from this very planting soil, along the way checking for damaged or dried parts of the root on the bulb and, if any, remove them with small scissors.

After such pre-training the bulb can be sent to rest in a cool and dark place, where it will recover and gain strength for the next vegetation cycle within 3-5 months.

To avoid damage to the dormant bulb by infections or pests, you can before sending the bulb to rest, wash it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and then dry it. Also, as an additional precaution, you can wrap each onion with napkins or ordinary toilet paper.

1. First of all, it is necessary to isolate the damaged specimens of the amaryllis bulbs from the undamaged ones so that the fungus or infection does not pass to the latter.
2. Onions damaged by the pest should be brought into a warm room and re-treated with a mild manganese solution or specialized products designed to disinfect bulbous plants.
3. After treatment with such disinfectants, it is imperative to let the bulbs dry well.
4. To re-wrap processed amaryllis bulbs, in no case should you use the same paper in which they were wrapped before. You should take fresh clean tissues or clean layers of toilet paper.
5. After all the preparations, amaryllis bulbs should be sent back to storage in a dark and cool room.

Details on why amaryllis leaves turn yellow, pests appear and fungal diseases, as well as how to cure a flower, read.

They are not only a model of beauty among flowers of this kind, but also a very, very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. With proper maintenance in winter conditions, the bulb, planted in mid-February in a flower pot, by the end of March will be able to please its owner of extraordinary beauty with flowering.

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis)- a genus of monocotyledonous plants of the Amaryllis family, which until 1998 was considered monotypic, but now this genus, according to information The Plant List includes four types. Some of the amaryllis that used to belong to this genus have been transferred to the genus Hippeastrum. In nature, amaryllis is found in the semi-deserts and deserts of Africa, Asia and America, as well as in the American prairies. In room culture, only amaryllis belladonna is grown from South Africa. The specific name of the plant - Belladonna - was given in honor of the beautiful shepherdess, sung by the great Virgil. The name is quite justified: amaryllis is not only decorative and deciduous, but also beautiful flowering plant.

Homemade amaryllis - description

Homemade amaryllis is a bulbous crop with a leafless peduncle and dense green leaves arranged in two rows, sometimes reaching a length of 50 and a width of 2-3 cm. The leaves are formed in autumn or early spring and die off by the beginning of summer. An amaryllis bulb with a diameter of 5 to 10 cm closer to autumn produces one or two peduncles from 30 to 60 cm high, each of which blooms from 2 to 12 funnel-shaped six-petal flowers with a diameter of 6 to 10 cm of white, pink, red or purple.

Amaryllis at home is often confused with hippeastrum, but these plants differ:

• Amaryllis leaves die off before flowers begin to open, while Hippeastrum leaves die off either during or after flowering;
• there can be no more than 6 flowers on hippeastrum, they are larger and odorless, and up to 12 fragrant small flowers can form on amaryllis;
• amaryllis is grown exclusively at home, and hippeastrum can be grown in the garden in summer.

How to care for amaryllis

How to care for amaryllis at home? The amaryllis flower prefers to be located on the southern, southwestern or southeastern window sills, but it needs diffused light, which means that in the middle of the day from direct rays it needs to be shaded with thin tulle or gauze. To keep the peduncle strictly vertical, the flower pot needs to be rotated around the axis by 180 º from time to time.

A comfortable temperature for amaryllis is not higher than 25 ºC and not lower than 16 ºC. In summer, the temperature of your apartment is quite suitable for growth, but in winter you will have to look for a place for it away from heating appliances.

Watering amaryllis

Indoor amaryllis needs to be watered evenly throughout its active growth period, however, until the plant reaches a height of 7 cm and forms leaves, watering should be moderate. But when the amaryllis shoots out and begins to form buds, the soil in the pot should be slightly damp at all times. If there is not enough moisture, the flowers may turn out faded and deformed. By September, water consumption and the frequency of watering are gradually reduced to prepare amaryllis for a dormant period. Keep in mind that excess moisture in cool weather can lead to amaryllis being affected by fungal diseases. For irrigation, use filtered or settled for two days. tap water room temperature, which is poured not under the plant, but along the inner wall of the pot so that water does not fall on the bulb.

Spraying amaryllis is not recommended, even during periods of extreme heat, because drops of water can fall on the bulb and cause it to rot. To achieve the required humidity, you can spray the air around the amaryllis with a fine mist sprayer, or place containers of water around the plant.

Top dressing amaryllis

Cultivation of amaryllis involves the introduction of fertilizers into its substrate. Top dressing is done during the period of active growth once every two weeks in the form of a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants. Since September, fertilization is stopped and resumed only from the beginning of a new growing season.

Amaryllis transplant

The plant does not need frequent transplants, however, over time, the mother bulb becomes overgrown with children, which will have to be separated. During transplantation, you need to inspect the bulb, shorten its roots a little and release from the children. Therefore, it is easier to transplant young amaryllis annually, while each subsequent pot should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one in diameter. Transplantation is carried out only after the flower arrow has completely dried. Adult plants need such a procedure less often - once every 4-6 years, but sometimes it is better to simply replace the top layer of the substrate in their pot.

Before planting, the pot is treated with alcohol or a solution of foundationol, a layer of drainage 2-3 cm thick is laid on the bottom, and a layer of soil mixture is placed on it, which can be purchased at a flower shop, or you can cook it yourself by mixing two parts of soddy soil, one part of lowland peat, one part of last year's humus and one part of sand. The acidity of the soil should be neutral. Amaryllis is installed on the soil layer and the voids in the pot are filled with the remnants of the soil mixture. After transplanting, amaryllis is watered.

Amaryllis after flowering

IN good conditions the plant blooms a month after planting the bulb. The flowering of amaryllis lasts from two to three weeks, but you can extend this holiday if you cut off the first of the two peduncles, lower the temperature of the content to 18 ºC and place the plant in partial shade.

When flowering is over, do not rush to cut off the flower spike, remove only faded flowers: now all the nutrients will begin to accumulate in the bulb. Move the amaryllis to a cool, shady spot and start preparing the plant for dormancy by stopping fertilizing and gradually reducing watering. The peduncle can be cut off when it becomes completely yellow and soft. Yellowed amaryllis leaves are also cut off. And what about the onion? You can dig it up and put it in storage, or you can place a pot of amaryllis in a dark, cool place where the bulb will restore the strength spent on the growth, development and flowering of the ground part last season. If the amaryllis does not rest in winter, the depleted bulb may not produce flowers next season.

Reproduction of amaryllis

Amaryllis reproduces by seed and vegetatively - by children. When growing amaryllis from flower seeds, you will not wait until after seven years, in addition, to obtain seed you will have to pollinate the amaryllis with a brush, transferring pollen from the stamens to the pistil, then wait for the seeds to ripen, collect them, sow them in a loose, moist substrate and grow in a warm and bright place. If you like experiments and are not afraid of difficulties, then this job is for you.

It is much easier to propagate amaryllis with the help of children, which are formed with healthy, strong bulbs. Babies reveal themselves by releasing long leaves. You can separate them from the bulb when transplanting, or you can dig them up by filling the void in the pot with soil. Children stand for half an hour in a pink solution of potassium permanganate and are seated in small cups for rooting. As the children grow, they are transplanted into a larger dish. Amaryllis will bloom from daughter bulbs in five years. And remember: if you want to get a strong bulb and a large peduncle, do not let the plant bloom for the first time.

Pests and diseases of amaryllis

Amaryllis diseases

Amaryllis, alas, is very prone to fungal diseases, and if the watering of the plant is not balanced, it is quite possible that you will have to treat it for diseases such as anthracnose, stagonosporosis, gray mold and fusarium.

Anthracnose manifested by dark spots with brown streaks on the leaves of amaryllis. Leaves damaged by the fungus must be cut and destroyed, and the plant and the soil in which it grows should be treated with a fungicide solution 3-4 times with a weekly break.

sign stagonosporosis- red spots on the stems and leaves of the plant. The disease affects even the bulb, and as a result, the amaryllis dies. Stagonosporosis progresses against the background of sudden changes in temperature and excessive watering. Unfortunately, fungicide treatment rarely gives positive results, and the affected flower usually dies.

Gray rot covers the leaves and stems of amaryllis with brown spots. The reason, as a rule, is excessive moisture of the substrate. Only an immediate transplant of amaryllis into fresh soil and a revision of the irrigation regime can save the plant.

Fusarium, or root rot, strikes vascular system amaryllis and causes it to wilt. Too wet soil and temperature differences provoke infection activity. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to determine the problem at an early stage, but as soon as you are convinced of your suspicions, remove the amaryllis from other plants so that the disease does not spread, and treat it several times with an interval of 7-10 days with Fundazol or another drug of similar action.

Amaryllis pests

Amaryllis also suffers from harmful insects. Most often it is affected by false scale insects, mealybugs, aphids, thrips and onion mites.

Aphid feeds on amaryllis juice, sucking it out of leaves and stems. Affected leaves turn yellow and curl, the stems are bent. If there are few aphids, wash the amaryllis with a solution of green potassium soap, but if this does not help, you will have to resort to insecticides - Aktellik, Aktara, Antitlin or similar preparations.

Determine what amaryllis is suffering from onion mite, very difficult, because the pest infects the bulb in the ground. A sign of the presence of a pest is the rotting of the ground organs of the plant. You can only fight onion mites with preventive measures: pickle bulbs before planting in Keltan or potassium permanganate and prevent amaryllis from being kept at too high a temperature.

Why amaryllis does not bloom

Sometimes amaryllis at home refuses to bloom. There are several reasons for this behaviour:

• insufficient lighting;
• nutrient deficiency in the soil;
• you deeply buried the bulb when planting;
• it is likely that the plant has diseased roots;
• you did not let the plant rest after flowering;
• the mother bulb is overgrown with children and requires their separation and transplantation.

Types and varieties of amaryllis

As we already wrote, only the amaryllis belladonna species is grown in room culture, which is represented by such popular varieties:

• Durban - amaryllis with large bell-shaped flowers of carmine-red color and a white spot at the base of the petals;
• Parker - a variety with pink flowers and yellow spot at the base of the petals;
• Ice Queen - double amaryllis with large shimmering white glossy flowers with a barely noticeable cream tint;
• Vera - a variety with light pink flowers of medium size, shimmering with mother of pearl;
• Red Lion - amaryllis with large flowers of rich red color;
• Grandior - this variety has flowers with narrow petals, painted in pink, gradually turning from a light shade to a more saturated one. Zev - yellowish-green;
Forward

The plant, which is highly decorative in combination with undemanding, has a number of features associated with the natural environment that must be considered when cultivating a flower at home:

• enough light;
• moderation of watering;
• correct selection of the pot;
• feeding regularity.

Home care

Successful cultivation of amaryllis requires adherence to basic care measures.

Lighting and location

Amaryllis needs a stream of soft light, which is possible to provide a flower when placing a pot on the windowsills of the southeast and southwestern directions with additional protection from direct sunlight during the period of greatest solar activity. Curtains can be used as protection.

Important! In the summer season, daylight hours should be at least 16 hours.

Temperature

The temperature regime for the full development of amaryllis depends on the phase of development:

• In the phase of active growth optimum temperature varies from 18 to 25°C depending on the time of day.
• During the dormant period, a temperature regime is provided in the range from 10 to 16 ° C.

Carefully! When growing a culture, strong temperature changes that adversely affect the plant should not be allowed.

Soil and pot requirements

To obtain a flowering plant, it is necessary to select a small container. The soil for filling the pot is required with a slightly acidic reaction in the range of 6.0-6.5 points and a loose structure. A nutrient substrate prepared from soddy and leafy soils, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1 is calcined in an oven to destroy pathogens before use.

Watering the flower and air humidity

When watering a flower, which should be carried out after the earthen clod has dried, the lower method of moistening is used: the pot is placed in a pan with water for 20-30 minutes, which helps prevent unwanted water from entering the bulb, which occurs during the upper irrigation method. Amaryllis easily adapts to dry air in the apartment, so it does not require additional spraying.

Advice! To facilitate the breathing of a flower through the leaf plates, you should systematically wipe them from dust.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Amaryllis needs regular feeding during the period of active growth:

• bird droppings, diluted in water in a proportion of 10 g per bucket of liquid;
• mullein at the rate of 250 g per bucket of water;
• a solution of mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content, prepared from a bucket of water and 3 g of an agrochemical.

Attention! An excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause a red flower burn.

Flowering and pruning

With the advent of autumn, the flowering of the culture is noted, which, unlike the hippeastrum, occurs after the development of the green mass. In the natural environment, this period, during which flowers of white and pink flowers bloom, falls in autumn. In culture, many varieties with a variety of colors. After flowering, the shoots die off naturally, and pruning is not required.

Transfer

The amaryllis flower is transplanted every 3-4 years after flowering is completed.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. A new container is selected so that the distance between the wall of the pot and the edge of the bulb is 2-3 cm.
2. Expanded clay drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot.
3. The bulb is inspected for diseases and placed in a pot, after which it is sprinkled with a new substrate so that ⅓ of the part remains above the ground.
4. The substrate is compacted and slightly moistened.

rest period

After the end of the flowering phase, the plant begins to prepare for a dormant period, which lasts an average of 2 months: watering and top dressing are reduced. Foliage shedding signals the beginning of active bulb growth. At this time, the pot is moved to a dark room, where the temperature should not exceed 16 ° C. Humidification is carried out as needed, when the earthen clod dries.

Disease and pest control

The flower is affected by diseases in the form of rot if the maintenance regulations are violated - excessive watering, a high concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate. With the intensive development of the disease, the plant may die. To prevent this, it is necessary to strictly comply with agrotechnical requirements. Among the pests noted on amaryllis, spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects stand out, which should be dealt with by spraying the plant with insecticidal preparations according to the instructions indicated on the package.

Reproduction of amaryllis

Amaryllis is bred in two ways: generative and vegetative.

seeds

Due to the laboriousness of the method and the inability to maintain varietal qualities, seed propagation at home is extremely rare.

If, nevertheless, the florist decided, then:

1. Artificial pollination is carried out with a brush.
2. After two months, when the seed pods begin to crack, the seed is collected.
3. Dried seeds are distributed over the surface of light moistened soil in January-February, and sprinkled with a 0.5 cm layer of earth.
4. The container is kept at a temperature of 22-25°C under glass until emergence.
5. After the seedlings have 1 pair of true leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate pots.

Attention! New plants obtained in this way will please the first flowering only after a seven-year period of growth.

babes

With the next transplant, reproduction can be carried out by separating the children:

1. With the help of a sharp instrument, a baby with roots is separated from the mother bulb.
2. Sections are disinfected with an antiseptic in the form of crushed activated carbon or fungicide solution.
3. A small bulb is planted in a separate pot with a prepared amaryllis substrate and moved to a warm room for rooting. After 1-3 years, mature bulbs will grow that can bloom.

dividing the bulb

The most popular technique in which:

1. A large bulb is selected, freed from scales, after which it is divided into 4 parts.
2. Delenki are immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection.
3. After half an hour, the parts are buried by ⅓ in a special substrate and kept at a temperature of 22 ° C until rooting.

Why amaryllis does not bloom, flowers and leaves turn pale?

Despite the unpretentiousness of the culture, non-compliance with the basic agrotechnical requirements can lead to the loss of decorative flower or the complete absence of inflorescences.

The main reasons are:

• lack of lighting;
• lack of macro- and microelements;
• lack of a resting phase;
• untimely transplant;
• deep embedment of the bulb;
• constant overflows that led to the development of diseases;
• incorrectly selected pot;
• the presence of pests.

Important! If less than three years have passed since the bulb was planted, the absence of a flowering phase is a normal physiological process.

How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Often, hippeastrums from the tropical zones of South America, the genus of which has more than 85 varieties, are mistaken for amaryllis, represented by only one species.

There are a number of parameters that will help the grower not to make a mistake:

• bulb - in amaryllis, the bulb is pear-shaped, while in a tropical flower it is round;
• inflorescence - in amaryllis, umbrellas consist of 6-12 flowers, while in hippeastrum - from 6 pieces maximum;
• flowering - in amaryllis, flowers bloom in autumn, and in hippeastrum - in spring and summer;
• peduncle - the hippeastrum has a hollow arrow.

So, the amaryllis flower is a failure of a beautifully flowering plant, requiring minimal, but proper care. Fulfillment of all requirements for the content of culture at home will allow the grower to get a healthy plant with beautiful large inflorescences of marvelous beauty.

Amaryllis is a popular houseplant found in the flower collections of many flower growers. Demanded due to its beautiful flowers and easy care. To make the amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don’t need to try hard. This task will be suitable for beginners as well. If you want to have a plant with beautiful flowers at home, but do not want to do much with it, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for this purpose.

Conditions for growing amaryllis

In amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the vegetation phase. So, at a certain time, the plant actively grows, and at another time, it has a dormant time. Growers need to be aware of the inability of amaryllis to survive in very cold conditions where temperatures hover around freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.

Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.

1. Location:

• In the growth phase, this window is in the southeast or southwest. You can put the plant on the south window, if you first shade it from the scorching daylight rays of the sun. Otherwise, the leaves will burn out from intense lighting.
• During dormancy, the plant is placed in a dark place, where the air is slightly cool and well ventilated.

2. Lighting conditions:

• In the growth phase, powerful diffused sunlight should fall on the plant for 14-16 hours every day. Both the leaves and the peduncle usually stretch towards the sun, which means that the pot will constantly have to be rotated so that they grow strictly vertically. You can also equip the plant with special props.
• During the dormant period, accordingly, no additional lighting requirements are put forward.

3. Humidity:

The plant loves moisture very much, so it is recommended to water it with regularly settled water at room temperature, it is possible through a pan, excess water from which is drained after 6-8 hours. They make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but it is not necessary to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, more water is needed. If it stagnates, then rotting of the roots, wilting of the leaves, loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not harm the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisten the buds before flowering. The optimum humidity should be 60-80%.

During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only periodically sprayed. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and germinates up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.

4. Ventilation

Amaryllis needs to ensure regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.

5. Optimum room temperature:

• During the active growing season - 22–24ºС during the daytime and 18ºС at night. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not suffer from constant temperature fluctuations.
• During the dormant period, both day and night, the temperature should be 10-12ºС.

How to plant amaryllis

Planting amaryllis at home photo

Pot selection

Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It should be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can topple itself. In addition, during care, a light pot is more likely to hurt than a massive one.

The size of the vessel is chosen based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. And this means that it should be up to 3-5 cm from it to all walls. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and gradually narrows at the top.

Soil preparation

It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.

The next step is to choose the soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs there. But any experienced grower will abandon this idea and go to prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: for this, it is doused with strong boiling water or kept over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.

The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:

• turf, garden soil and river sand in equal parts and half of the humus;
• turf, garden soil, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
• humus, soddy land and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

At the bottom, it is necessary to fill up drainage with a thickness of 2-3 cm. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, accessible brick chips, small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drainage is mixed with the substrate and spread over the surface of the pot. It also has a large hole for water drainage.

Drainage from above is also covered with sand by 2-3 cm, in order to additionally be safe from root rotting due to water accumulation.

Planting amaryllis step by step

Planting indoor amaryllis photo

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface, which have fairly good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of decay and mold damage, spots. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, it is also not worth choosing.

1. The bulbs are cleaned of all bad scales that are black to beige in color and reach tissues that are pure white or light brown. green color. After that, the bulb is treated with potassium permanganate, immersed in its pink solution for half an hour. If permanganate is not available, you can choose another fungicide, such as Bordeaux liquid.
2. When the processing of planting material is completed, it is laid out to dry for 12-24 hours. If there are any places in the bulbs that can be affected by diseases, they are not removed. For this, there are preparations such as Maxim, Zelenka, Fitosporin, which treat the affected areas, after which the bulb is dried.
3. Next, half the substrate is poured into a pre-prepared pot.

After planting the amaryllis bulb, the substrate is topped up on the sides

The bulb is set in the ground with a blunt end and then the soil is poured so that about half to a third of the bulb is left above the surface in height.

4. After that, the soil is pressed with palms, mulched at will with small stones, watered with warm water and the plant is set on permanent place a habitat.

Amaryllis transplant

How to transplant amaryllis at home

Amaryllis transplantation is carried out after it has faded, waiting for the peduncle to completely wither.

It is not necessary to replant the plant every year, but the operation is carried out no more than once every three years. If the amaryllis grows too fast, you can transplant earlier.

To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of potted soil with new ones every year.

1. Before transplanting, the plant is watered abundantly for 4 days.
2. On the day of transplantation, the amaryllis is carefully taken out along with the earth and carefully cleaned of it to inspect the condition of the roots. Rotting roots are removed with a sharp knife, and all sections are treated with activated carbon powder or ordinary ash.
3. Then all bad scales are removed from the bulb and daughter plants are separated. They are used to plant in new pots. If you understand that the babies are too small to separate (sometimes they are only a few millimeters), you can not do this. But it should be borne in mind that in such cases, amaryllis may stop blooming in order to grow children.

Before an adult plant is planted in another pot, it must be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer are applied under the roots.

Reproduction of amaryllis

Breeders and flower growers use all three possible ways reproduction of amaryllis - dividing the bulb, children and seeds.

Amaryllis seeds photo How to get amaryllis seeds

This is the longest breeding method and the least successful. If the seeds are collected from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.

Amaryllis seeds at home

To get seeds, you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pestle of the other. As a result, a box is formed in which the seeds will then ripen. Ripening takes at least a month.

Amaryllis from seed seedling photo

• Seeds are planted immediately, as germination drops sharply over time.
• Moisten the soil well before planting.
• Embedding depth 1-1.5 cm.
• Distance between seeds 3-5 cm
• The pot with seeds is placed in a warm shaded place.
• They expect about a month of germination, and 3 months after that, the seedlings dive into different pots.

dividing the bulb

How to cut amaryllis bulbs photo

This is the most risky method, since you can be left with nothing.

• Choose the healthiest onion and divide it into 4-8 shares, without cutting to the end. Make sure that each of them has 1-2 scales and part of the bottom. Be sure to treat the sections with activated carbon powder or ash.
• The bulb is planted in the usual way and grown at 25-27 ºС.
• On delenki, the first leaf grows first. They wait for the second, and plant the plants already in adult soil for bulbs, which is mixed with an equal amount of sand.

How to cut an amaryllis bulb, the video will tell:

Many growers have successfully used bulb division to propagate amaryllis, it's important to just do it right and not be afraid to take risks.

Reproduction by children

The most successful way to propagate amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store bulbs, but a slightly larger pot is chosen. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

1. Find small onions on the mother amaryllis and separate them from the adult plant. The next step is to plant them in a pot with drainage and soil, placing the bottom down and lightly pressing into the ground. Only part of the bulb is left above the surface.
2. Then lightly tamp the soil and water it well. Place new amaryllis in a bright and warm place.
3. There is no need to organize a rest period. Feeding and watering are not reduced, and rest is organized for flowers only after flowering.

Amaryllis - though exotic plant, but quite real in everyone's house. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.

Amaryllis care at home

Amaryllis planting and care at home photo

Watering and feeding

During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the height of the peduncle is at least 10 cm. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant form. Sometimes it is better to refuse watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that water does not get on the bulb during watering. It should fall purely on the soil around.

In winter, so much water should not flow to the plant. It is enough not to spray more than once a week.

• Fertilize amaryllis every 12-14 days, starting this process when buds form.
• With intensive flowering, reduce the interval by half. There is no need to specifically select fertilizers. For this, any ready-made funds for indoor flowering - Kemira Lux, Emerald, Bona Forte, Ideal, Ava, Rainbow, Florist, Master Color, Agricola, Living World, Reasil, Bud, Life Force and others.
• Fertilizers with more potassium and phosphorus are preferable than nitrogen.

It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted from a ratio of 1.5 cups in 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a cup per 10 liters.

With the complete death of the leaves, top dressing stops. It is not carried out in the resting phase either.

Amaryllis bloom at home

Amaryllis in the wild enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture, there are tricks on how to change this period. The simplest is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, giving mature flower stalks as early as 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to load the bulb abundantly with flowering.

When the first flower appeared and blossomed, some cut the peduncle and put it in a vase. Subject to daily renewal of water, he can hold out there for up to three weeks. You can not cut the peduncle, but it will last the same amount, and it will deplete the bulb much more. To maximize the flowering time, the vase or flower pot is placed in a cooler and darker place.

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Why amaryllis does not bloom How to make amaryllis bloom

You must understand which reason you have listed. It must be eliminated and the result expected.

Amaryllis after flowering

1. When the flowers wither, the amount of incoming water and fertilizers is sharply reduced. Completely stop watering and feeding amaryllis when neither the peduncle nor the leaves are left.
2. Remove all dead leaves, but you should not force it. If a partially live leaf is left, it will still feed the plant.
3. When the dormant phase has finally begun, the pot is transferred to the dark. Remember that the roots are still alive, so the soil needs to be irrigated once a week with a spray bottle.

Another care option (but risky) is digging up the bulbs, cleaning them, and putting them in cardboard boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.

Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make their amaryllis flowers bloom twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. To do this, they strictly organize a dormant period for the rest of the bulb and the accumulation of the necessary useful substances. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from their place of rest, put them in a bright and insulated place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

red amaryllis burn photo

• The bulb is covered with small red spots, the edges of the scales have the same border.
• Amaryllis is soaked for 2 hours in strong purple potassium permanganate, after which the largest foci are cut off and treated with brilliant green. The plant is kept in the air for a week, then planted.

2. Mold and rot

Rot on amaryllis photo

• The surface of the bulb is covered with red-gray spots. Then it becomes softer, smells of a sweetish type. The leaves are covered with red-brown stripes and spots.
• The affected leaves are completely cut off, and the bulb itself is sprayed with 0.05% Bordeaux mixture. You can choose Fundazol and HOM in the dilution indicated by the manufacturer.

3. Spider mite

• It is felt that the leaves are covered with cobwebs. This causes them to wither and dry out.
• Amaryllis is treated with Oberon, Kleschevit, Nisoran, Floromite, Neoron.

4. Onion mite

The defeat of amaryllis with an onion mite photo

• The insect infects the bulb itself, which leads to inhibition of plant development and the absence of flowering. Even if there are flowers, they are deformed. And the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• Bulbs are removed from the pots and placed in water at 35-40ºС for 5 minutes. After that, they are treated with Keltan and Rogor. There is also a more aggressive method - the bulb is closed in an airtight container with a sulfur checker, which is set on fire. Wait 2 hours and then get it back. To achieve the final effect, keep the amaryllis on fresh air another day.

5. Thrips

The defeat of amaryllis thrips photo

• There are many small brown dots on the leaves.
• They try to remove all pests from the leaves, wash the plant and transplant into a sterile pot and soil. Then the amaryllis is treated with Agravertin and Fitoverm.

6. Mealybug

Mealybug on amaryllis photo

Shield on amaryllis photo

• Dense scales are observed from the bottom of the leaves. They can be almost white and even dark brown. Around them, there are secretions of a sticky nature, similar in type to syrup.
• The sponge is impregnated laundry soap and foam. She actively rub the leaves.

9. Aphid

Aphids on amaryllis photo

• Yellowness of leaves.
• All pests are harvested by hand, after which the leaves are wiped with soapy water.

10. Springtail

Springtails on amaryllis photo

• Small white insects are noticeable on the surface of the soil.
• Reduce the flow of moisture, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with insecticides.

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

The shops sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis, which are bred selectively. Real Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and is valued by avid flower growers.

At the moment, breeders are achieving the following tasks:

• Breeding large double and ordinary flowers. The most beautiful terry-type hybrids are The Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Promise. Of the non-terry varieties, these are Benfica, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Black Pearl, Exotica, Lemon-Lime, Rosalie.
• Search for unique shades and their combinations. In this sense, Clown, Charisma, Estella, Prelude, Santa Cruz, Neon and other varieties are good.
• Working with new forms of flowers. The recent trend in breeding is the breeding of amaryllis with narrow, partially corrugated petals along the edges. This can be seen in the varieties Evergreen, Night Star, Lima, La Paz, Santana.

This does not mean that amaryllis classic varieties are not in demand on the market. Standard cultivars such as Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purplish-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Photo of plants

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences photo In the photo amaryllis

Amaryllis and hippeastrum are from the Amaryllis family. Only in the first genus there are significantly more plants. At least 90 species grow only in the wild, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family has up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences In the photo, hippeastrum

In order not to repeat, below, each first paragraph - refers to amaryllis, the second - to hippeastrum.

1. Flowering time:

• amaryllis blooms in late summer - early autumn;
• hippeastrum - in late winter or early spring.

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Aroma intensity:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• in amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. The number of flowers in one plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

• almost white, pink in different shades, red;
• red, pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, green and combinations of these colors.

7. The presence of leaves during flowering:

• no - they germinate only after the peduncle has grown;
• present during flowering.

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

• a dense tube without voids, the color of which gives off a little purple;
• a hollow tube that is easy to crush when pressed, has a green color with a grayish-brown tint.

9. Peduncle length:

• in amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb in shape:

• pear-shaped;
• slightly elongated or round, slightly flattened laterally.

11. Characteristics of scales:

• ash-gray in color, have a small fringe from the upper edge;
• very similar in appearance to the classic edible onion, but have a white or green surface color.

Description of amaryllis

Planting and flowering of amaryllis Amaryllis reproduction and care at home

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the amaryllis family (lat. Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed to him one species of plant - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers claim that the plant spread from the Olifants River Valley from the Cape Province of South Africa. As for other species, here the geography is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the birthplace of plants.

For the first time, the genus Amaryllis was described by the famous Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. He is credited with the name of this flower. Before his work, there was an opinion that amaryllis is only one of the subspecies of the lily. It was called Lilionarcissus. Linnaeus realized that this was a separate plant, but made a significant error in taxonomy by including a number of varieties of hippeastrum in the genus Amaryllis. To this day, many people confuse these plants.

The name of the plant is first found in the work of Virgil. In his poetic works, you can meet the heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllida. This name in Greek means "sparkling".

Amaryllis flowers care Amaryllis flower photo

Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The green of the plant is so narrow and long that it looks like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.

A mark of the beginning of flowering of amaryllis is the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Leaves will follow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. By type of inflorescence - an umbrella.

Amaryllis grown in the wild can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders artificially bred many hybrid varieties yellow, purple, orange, green. A separate amaryllis flower looks like a lily and - a gramophone, being 10-12 centimeters in diameter.

Amaryllis belladonna Amaryllis Belladonna planting and care at home photo

Despite the seeming cuteness of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorine was found in the bulb. If it gets on the skin, it will irritate. All planting operations with the plant should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap and water. It is necessary to keep the flower away from pets and children.

plant care guide

Once every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during the dormant period - about 15 During flowering - when the topsoil dries out, do not water during the dormant period Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poison juice, observance of periods of growth and dormancy

Lighting

During growth, the plant prefers bright diffused light; in summer, direct sunlight is allowed only from 11:00 to 15:00.

For normal development, amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight.. During dormancy, amaryllis bulbs do not need light.

The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On the south window, amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.

During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly rotated so that the peduncle does not bend.

Temperature

Temperature regime during active growth:

• Daytime 20–22°C;
• At night not less than 18°C.

During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place.. The optimum temperature will be around 15 ° C, the minimum 10 ° C, and the maximum 18 ° C. At low temperatures, the bulb may die, and at high temperatures, it will germinate too quickly, preventing the plant from fully resting.

In summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since the differences in day and night temperatures in the middle lane are significant. This plant does not like a sharp decrease or increase in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.

For this flower, a dormant period is necessary. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and release a peduncle in spring, it can be kept at room temperature 20-22ºС, but in relative dryness. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.

Watering

During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Frequency of watering - the top layer of soil between watering should dry slightly. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature.. It is important that water does not get on the bulbs.

When flowering is over, watering is reduced, and after 2 months it is completely stopped.

During this time, the amaryllis loses its leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.

After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), They switch to normal watering, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.

If the air in the room is too dry, it is allowed to spray the buds a little. It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, as well as bulbs during the dormant period.

The soil

For amaryllis, a soil consisting of soddy land (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part) is suitable. Soil acidity should be pH 6.0-6.5.

You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are its ingredients:

• Sod land - 2 parts;
• Leaf land - 2 parts;
• Humus - 1 part;
• Peat - 1 part;
• Washed river sand - 1 part.

Sand can be replaced with baking powder such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified composition of the soil will ensure the outflow of excess water into the pan during irrigation.

Also, in order to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is essential to prevent root and bulb rot.

Light and loose soil, slightly acidic or with neutral acidity, is suitable for amaryllis. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. They are easiest to purchase at flower shops or garden centers.

Fertilizer

During active growth and flowering, top dressing is carried out 1 time in 10 days. To do this, use a complex liquid fertilizer suitable for flowering plants.

At the end of flowering, top dressing is reduced, and after the leaves wither, they stop completely.. Fertilization is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.

Fertilizing the soil for amaryllis begins when flower stalks appear from the bulb in spring. Use liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants or special formulations for bulbous plants.

It is important not to overfeed the plants after the formation of leaves and the end of flowering. This species grows leaves after the formation of the peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizers for flowering plants, never using formulations for deciduous varieties. This allows you to maximize flowering and reduce the rate of leaf growth.

Humidity

Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so it is not necessary to spray it.

The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or higher, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.

For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to wipe the leaves regularly or wash them in the shower.

Peculiarities

For the normal development and abundant flowering of amaryllis, it is required to follow special rules for care during the period of growth and dormancy. Amaryllis is also poisonous plant and you need to work with it only with gloves.

Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous houseplant. Do not allow juice to come into contact with skin or food. But do not rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, it is enough just to follow the precautions.

Periods of growth and dormancy

Consider how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as an ordinary houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.

After flowering amaryllis, you need to remove the flower stalks. The leaves do not need to be touched - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.

In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to provide a dormant period.. To do this, from August you need to reduce watering and stop feeding. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. At the same time, the leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they should be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.

In September-early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and cleaned in a dark, dry and cool (13–15 ° C) place. The dormant period will begin when there is not a single green leaf left on the plant and will last 6–8 weeks.

Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and they begin to water it regularly. From this moment, the period of growth begins again.

Keep the soil moist before and after flowering and rotate the plant constantly for even growth. During this period, the optimum temperature will be 13-18 ° C. 4-8 weeks after the resumption of watering, the amaryllis should bloom.

amaryllis bloom

The flowering period of amaryllis falls at the end of autumn or the beginning of winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which an inflorescence is located. Usually during flowering, the leaves of the plant are absent. Sometimes 1 pair of leaves grows together with the peduncle.

With optimal care, amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without harming the plant. For this, adult specimens are suitable, with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm. They will bloom in the summer, subject to regular feeding in the spring.

To induce natural flowering of amaryllis in the summer, you need to create an additional dormant period for it. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded one, away from the window.

Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After a 2-week stay in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.

After the formation of the peduncle, the plant begins to be watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.

Diseases

Amaryllis can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold. Signs of infection: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or a grayish velvety coating on leaves.

As a rule, too humid air and waterlogging of the soil lead to the disease.

The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so a diseased plant must be transplanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.

The plant can be infested with thrips or aphids. Signs: leaves turn yellow and deform.

Small reddish spots may appear when infested with mites. In pest control, insecticide treatment, which must be carried out several times, will help.

Problems

• Flowers turn pale. Reason: direct Sun rays;
• The flowers darken or even turn black. Cause: damp air and low room temperature;
• The leaves turn pale and the flowers wilt. Reason: insufficient watering;
• The leaves are turning yellow. Causes: defeat by thrips or aphids, waterlogging of the soil;
• Bulbs shrink. Reasons: a large number of children, lack of lighting, abundant flowering;
• The plant does not bloom. Reasons: improper care, too short dormancy period or lack of it, deep planting of the bulb, damage to the root system. The bulb does not have enough strength to release a peduncle with a lack of heat, light, fertile soil, drainage and sufficient watering. During the dormant period, the bulb accumulates strength for flowering.

reproduction

Amaryllis can be propagated by babies separated from the mother bulb and seeds. Before you transplant amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.

Branch of daughter bulbs

This is the easiest and most common way. Overgrown children are separated from the mother plant during the spring transplant.

First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.

At the same time, the composition of the soil, the height of the planting of the bulb, the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow quickly and bloom for 2-3 years.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, laborious and unreliable way. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another with a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.

Shoots should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one at a time in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seeds bloom only for 7 years.

Transfer

Amaryllis belongs to perennials, so there is no need for its annual transplant. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb must not be covered above the previous soil level.

Usually amaryllis is transplanted every 2-4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother's bulb for reproduction.

The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering has ended.

This is due to the fact that the bulb during flowering greatly decreases in size due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.

When transplanting, the pot is selected with a diameter equal to the bulb plus 1.5–2.0 cm from all sides- in cramped containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.

Dried and withered outer scales are removed from the faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and children with roots are separated.

If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be transplanted. Roots will grow in 4-6 weeks. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground by half or 2/3 of its height.

Description of the plant and species

Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.

The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.

More recently, the Amaryllis Belladonna species was considered the only one of its kind. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicola.

amaryllis belladonna- Very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Due to its compact size and flowers of amazing beauty, this species is common in the collections of lovers of flowering plants almost everywhere. Wild flowers are pink, red and even purple.

This species gave rise to many varieties that differ in unusual color, size of flowers and shape of petals. There are large-flowered, variegated varieties and varieties with narrow petals. Here are some popular varieties of amaryllis:

• "Exotica" - large-flowered variety;
• "Minerva" - a variety with variegated striped petals;
• "Exotic Star" - narrow-petal variety.

Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in a large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and a pleasant aroma. In indoor floriculture is not common.

Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.

4 parts: Caring for amaryllis after flowering Caring for amaryllis in summer Caring for amaryllis in autumn Preparing for new bloom

Amaryllis flowers usually appear in winter or spring, in the last few weeks, before disappearing. Compared to most flowers, amaryllis bulbs easily bloom extra times, but proper care is required for best results. all year round to make sure they develop properly every season. If your amaryllis flowers have fallen some time ago, you still have a chance of success, provided that the autumn dormancy period has not yet begun.

Part 1 Caring for amaryllis after flowering

1. Remove each flower when it has faded.

   After the flower has been removed, cut off the flower where it meets the main stem with a clean knife or scissors. Be sure to remove the green clump and the thin green stem that is attached to the flower.

   This prevents the plant from producing seed, which requires a lot of energy to grow.

2. Cut out flower stalks as soon as they turn yellow or sag.

   The main stems contain food and water for the plant, but they will likely begin to droop or turn yellow shortly after the flowers fade.

   They are no longer useful and must be cut within a 2 inch (5 cm) radius of the bulb.

   • Be careful not to cut the leaves or the top of the bulb. Only flower stems should be removed.
   • Don't be alarmed if juice runs out of the incision. This is normal for watering the plant.
3. Move the amaryllis to an area with indirect light.

   Most people keep the amaryllis plant indoors while they bloom in the winter. If so, move the plant to a windowsill with indirect sunlight for the flower to adjust to the increased sunlight.

   You can skip this step if the plant has already been exposed to indirect or full sunlight.

   • In the northern hemisphere, towards the north and on the east side, receive indirect sunlight reception. In the southern hemisphere, direct sunlight to the south and east in front of the windows.
4. Water the soil when it starts to dry.

   Your amaryllis will likely require daily watering unless kept in a humid environment or planted outside in moist soil.

   Don't let the soil dry out completely, at least not longer than a few hours.

Continue watching the summer section as soon as the weather warms up. Depending on your local climate, this usually starts in May or June in the northern hemisphere. In the southern hemisphere, warm weather usually begins in December or January.

Part 2 Caring for amaryllis in summer

1. Once summer begins, plant the pot outside.

   After the last frost has passed and the weather is consistently warm, plant the container outside in a flower garden or garden. Plant it at or slightly above the surface. Choose a location that receives full morning light if possible, but is protected from the sun during the hottest part of the day.

   • Amaryllis grows best in containers that also protect against burrowing animals and insects. Growing them directly in the soil is possible, but it will be difficult.
   • The leaves may curl or fall off when the plant is first planted outside, but with proper care, new, stronger leaves should grow.
2. Continue to water regularly.

   Check the soil for water daily when it is dry or almost dry. Water the soil around the plant, not the leaves or bulbs. Avoid watering any plants during the hottest part of the day, as hot water can burn the plants.

   • Keep the soil moist, but without water accumulation. If the soil is not properly drained, the collected water can rot the roots.
3. Fertilize every two weeks.

   Keep the bulbs strong and healthy by applying a balanced fertilizer to the soil every two weeks. Use a soluble houseplant fertilizer and apply as directed.

   Do not apply more than the instructions suggest.

   • You should see the growth of new, darker colored leaves throughout the summer.

Continue reading the section on autumn when the weather cools the plant and the leaves change color. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, which is normal, the plant enters its dormant period. This usually happens in early autumn. Expect these changes in August or September if you live in the northern hemisphere, and in March or April if you live in the southern hemisphere.

Part 3 Caring for Amaryllis in the Fall

Reduce watering gradually as the leaves die. Amaryllis must be shedding its leaves as summer ends and autumn begins. When this starts to happen, start giving the plant a little less water, but don't let the soil dry out completely.

1. Remove dead leaves.

   Trim yellow or brown leaves once they have withered, cutting them next to the neck of the bulb. Leave green leaves on the plant.

2. Move the plant to a cool indoor area.

   Once the weather gets cooler and most of the leaves have died, move the amaryllis indoors. Place the pot in a cool, dark place between 40 and 50ºF (5-10ºC), such as a basement.

   If you don't have a suitable pot space, you can carefully remove the bulbs and roots from the soil and place them in a fresher (plant box) from the refrigerator.

   • Always blow the amaryllis before the first frost, which usually happens at 32ºF or 0ºC nighttime temperatures.
   • When stored in the refrigerator, Not store fruit in your refrigerator at the same time. Many fruits, especially apples, release chemicals that can sterilize the amaryllis bulb.
3. Leave the bulbs alone for 6-8 weeks.

   Leave the amaryllis in a cool, dark place for at least six weeks. Do not water it during this time, but remove the remaining leaves when they dry out.

   The plant must experience this dormant period of the bulb in order to bloom again.

Proceed to the next section after 6-8 weeks. If you want the amaryllis to re-bloom by a specific date, such as Christmas, take the bulb out of a cool place at least six weeks before that day.

Part 4 Preparing for a new bloom

1. Test to see if the bulb has rotted.

   Grab the soil below the surface and gently compress it. If the bulb is soft, it may have rotted and become unusable.

   If you're unsure, you can try to re-repair the bulb anyway, but purchase a spare amaryllis in case the original bulb dies.

2. Replace soil.

   Like most plants, amaryllis plants grow best in some soil types and within 1-3 years they can remove nutrients from the soil. It's not hard to get amaryllis to bloom again if you use potting mixes. Amaryllis roots are easily damaged during repotting, so if you are not used to repotting you can replace the top 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) of soil.

   • The best soil for amaryllis is two parts loamy soil, without much sand or clay; part of perlite or gravel; and a portion of organic matter such as rotted manure, peat moss, leaf mould, or bark compost.
   • A clay pot may be better than a plastic one, as amaryllis can bend a light pot under it.

Water the soil thoroughly if you are repotting it. If you have transplanted the bulbs into a new pot, you should water the soil thoroughly and allow excess water to drain through the base of the pot. After the initial watering, you should keep the soil moist, but not over water, as in summer or fall.

3. Keep plants in a relatively cool place.

   The ideal temperature for amaryllis to bloom is between 55 and 65ºF (13-18ºC). Higher temperatures can lead to floppy, weak leaves and stems.

   Cooler temperatures may prevent or slow growth.

4. Wait for the flower to appear.

   While a new amaryllis will usually have a flower in front of the leaves, when reblooming, they can appear in any order.

   Keep the soil moist, but do not flood, and wait new flower or flowers about six weeks after you move it to a warm area.

• Fertilize the plants, if there are many, in a staggered schedule, if you want to have amaryllis flowers, then fertilize for a longer period of time.
• Amaryllis usually blooms in late winter or spring, but if you have recently acquired a plant grown in another hemisphere, flowers may appear depending on the season. As soon as he has been in this climate for a year, he must readjust himself.

Warnings

• Amaryllis roots are fragile and may break or die during transplantation. Be careful when repotting the amaryllis into another pot or soil, and try not to touch the roots.
• Apply the recommended amount of fertilizer, failure to do so may damage or kill your plants.

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Beautiful home flower Amaryllis*

Amaryllis* (Amaryllis, Hippeastrum)- one of our favorite indoor plants, especially in a rather cold Russian climate, with almost a six-month period of snow and lack of access to such natural gardening and summer cottage work in your favorite garden plot! Modern cultivars of amaryllis come in a wide range of colors and are usually crowned with large bell-shaped flowers ranging from pure white to deep crimson, purple and even green. There are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers. The birthplace of this unusual flower is South America.

(*The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis belladonna and Hippeastrum garden. Here we are talking about hippeastrums, see the description on the page Hippeastrum (Ed.)

source http://www.greeninfo.ru/indoor_plants/amaryllis.html/Article/_/aID/4671

Amaryllis are bulbous plants with linear, fairly long oblong leaves. In culture, hybrid amaryllis and hippeastrums are more common. Amaryllis are among the best forcing plants because they are easily forced into room conditions even the most unprepared amateurs. As a rule, each bulb produces one or two long flower arrows with 4-6 huge flowers, reaching 20 cm in diameter, and sometimes more. It happens that well-developed bulbs give a third arrow, but I usually remove it at the very early stage of its development, because I think that the third flowering is very much inferior in beauty and abundance of flowering to the previous two and, most importantly, greatly weakens the mother bulb, which is fraught with a lack of flowering next year.

Amaryllis under normal conditions bloom in late winter or early spring. Some species and varieties may bloom in summer or autumn. With the help of distillation, with some little knowledge and skills, in principle, amaryllis can be made to bloom at any time of the year that is convenient for you. The height of flower stalks averages 0.4-0.7 m and strongly depends on the characteristics of a particular variety. The same applies to the size of each individual flower.

What is the difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum?

In fact, popularly loved flowers are representatives of two different genera (hippeastrum and amaryllis) or their hybrids. By the nature of flowering, planting and caring for them, these two plants differ little from each other. In the first and simplest approximation, their difference is only in the size of the flower, the height of the peduncles and the size of the bulbs. Most often, in hippeastrums, all this is larger. Other differences for us flower growers are of little significance, therefore, for simplicity, we will use the common name for these plants - amaryllis. By the way, hippeastrum in translation means "big knight's star."

How to plant amaryllis?

Depending on the size of the bulb, amaryllis is planted in an individual (rather heavy) pot 15-20 cm in size or in a small group, at a distance of 10 cm from each other, in a slightly larger container or container. Avoid light pots that can tip over during amaryllis flowering or from minor gusts of wind with a sufficiently large foliage and flower stalks windage. With a blunt end (usually with the remains of roots), the bulbs are buried in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Thoroughly pack the soil mixture around the bulbs so that about half or at least a third of the bulb remains above the soil surface. In the lower part of the earthy coma, almost above the very drainage, you can horizontally put one or one and a half sticks of any complex prolonged-action fertilizer you have tested, after dividing them in half.

After planting or transplanting, a pot of amaryllis is placed on a bright window in a fairly warm place and watered with water at room temperature. For planting, an earth mixture is used, consisting of approximately equal parts of sod, leaf, humus earth and sand. When transplanting, the roots are shaken off the old earth, and the roots that have rotted in an old pot or dried up during long-term storage are removed.

Before planting, it is highly desirable to first remove all the dried outer scales of the bulbs that are black or dark brown in color for several reasons. Firstly, by peeling the bulb to lively and elastic white or light green tissues and placing your plant in the light, you thereby stimulate the production of chlorophyll in them and, as it were, stimulate or start all the necessary life processes in a plant that is often sleeping or resting, if we are talking about a planned transplant this plant. Secondly, if we are talking about newly acquired specimens, behind the dead covering shells, there can be anything - small hidden foci of rot, and pathogenic spores, and even young children pecked in growth. Therefore, I strongly advise you to first carefully remove all external dark and even light, but already lost their elasticity, outer shells before planting, and separate all sufficiently large and viable children. Further, it will be useful to treat your bulbs almost to the very neck for half an hour with some kind of fungicide or at least a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Then, having dried them well for several hours, or even days, you can start planting the prepared plants. Places that make you suspicious can be pre-treated with Maxim, Fitosporin, or at least ordinary brilliant green. But they also need to be dried well before planting!

Very small, slightly pecked babies are removed or left on the bulb, depending on your further goals and preferences in relation to this variety or specifically in relation to this instance or a particular bulb. They can be left if you need to quickly propagate this variety or removed if abundant and long flowering is more important to you. It must be remembered that the presence of children can lead in some varieties to a delay or even a prolonged absence of flowering. The intensive education of children is facilitated by a very spacious container in which they grow. The plant, as it were, understands - why strain and try to multiply through flowering and seed setting, if it is possible to multiply its offspring vegetatively more naturally and faster.

Therefore, pots for planting amaryllis are taken mainly of small diameter, the distance between the wall and the bulb, which should be only 1.5-2 cm! Maybe even less! As mentioned above, in a spacious container, the plant forms many children and does not bloom for a long time. At the same time, well-developed amaryllis roots need a lot of space, so the pot should be deep enough and wide at the bottom. Good drainage is also essential, since the bulk of the roots are located in this part of the pot. Expanded clay or fine gravel can be used as drainage. It is desirable to use ceramic pots, without enamel. This contributes to better ventilation and aeration of the root system.

Mature plants are transplanted about every 2 years, younger plants are transplanted as needed and the bulbs grow. The top layer of the earth, if possible, is replaced annually for all plants.

Which window is best to put it on?

Amaryllis are photophilous plants, they feel very good on the southeast and southwest windows. You can also put on the southern windows, but in the daytime it is better to shade the pots from direct sunlight. As the leaves and flower arrow grow, the plant must be periodically rotated slightly so that the stem stretching towards the light returns to a vertical position.

How to water amaryllis?

Water the newly planted plant very sparingly so as not to flood the bulb and roots until the new leaves or flower are starting to grow and are about 5-7 cm tall. Depending on the variety, Amaryllis may be either leaf or flower first - either is normal, but flower stalks are more common. After the leaves or arrow of the flower have begun to grow, you should keep the soil sufficiently moist. But it must be borne in mind that with a strong excess of moisture, thick roots that have not yet taken root and not properly rooted, or even the bulb itself, can rot, especially if before that it had areas affected by rotting. In the absence of leaves and cold weather or a window sill, moisture from pots, especially plastic ones, evaporates slowly, which can cause roots and bulbs to rot.

When will my amaryllis bloom?

A powerful, well-developed bulb starts growing or throws out flower stalks almost immediately after planting. And already within seven to eight weeks, depending on the variety and variety of amaryllis, you will receive one or two powerful peduncles, each of which will have three to five, and sometimes six beautiful flowers. To prolong their flowering, keep the pot in a fairly cool place and out of direct sunlight. If a third flower arrow suddenly appears, then it is better to break it off immediately at the base and not allow the bulb to bloom a third time, since three-fold flowering greatly depletes the bulb. The peduncle immediately after the opening of the first flower can be safely cut off and placed in water in a narrow high vase, it is advisable to renew the water every day. The duration of flowering of each peduncle in the cut and on the bulb is almost the same, but at the same time you significantly reduce the exhaustion of the bulbs and often stimulate the appearance of a new peduncle.

In summer, plants are watered abundantly (but not often!) as needed, and fed once every two weeks. On sunny days, only pots shade, you can spray the foliage in the evening or in the morning. In the daytime, it is better not to do this, since water droplets can become microlenses and corny burn the leaves, concentrating the sun's rays on them. Amaryllis can also be taken out into the open air - a balcony, an outdoor window sill, or even planted in a garden, protecting the mouth of the bulb from heavy rainfall and excessive moistening of the earthy coma.

What does amaryllis need for regular flowering?

You can help the amaryllis bloom again next year. All you need is a little extra care for this plant and it will pay you back. After the end of flowering, flower stalks should be removed immediately, cutting them off at a height of approximately 3-4 cm from its base. Continue to water the plant periodically as the top layer of the earthy coma dries. Amaryllis should also be fed regularly, about once every two weeks or ten days, preferably with liquid fertilizer for bulbous plants. Amaryllis respond very well to liquid complex fertilizer "Emerald". The more leaves the amaryllis produces during the spring and summer, the better. They will help the plant stock up on the necessary energy for the next flowering. At the same time, under conditions favorable for the plant, either a flower bud or a baby embryo is laid behind every fourth leaf. And depending on the size of the pot, care of the plant and some other external conditions, they may well start to grow and reward you with either a beautiful flower or a new plant.

When can amaryllis be expelled?

Amaryllis is very much appreciated precisely because the time of their flowering, by correctly adjusting the dormant period, can be timed to almost any desired time. But still it is better to do it from December to April for two reasons. These terms are more natural for this plant. In this case, the bulbs are less depleted and better endure this event, which, in other words, passes for them with the least loss. In this case, your collection will bloom beautifully and almost continuously every year, and the bulbs will normally recover in the spring and summer. In industrial conditions, forcing for cutting is carried out almost all year round.

How to prepare amaryllis for dormancy?

At the end of August - September, stop feeding and begin to reduce the amount of watering until they stop completely at the end of October - November. By this time, the amaryllis will begin to gradually shed its leaves, and the nutrients from them will gradually pass into the bulb. Due to a significant decrease in irrigation and natural light, in October - November, all leaves should naturally die off. It is not necessary to specially cut off the leaves that have not yet withered, since when they die, all the organic substances from them pass into the bulb, making the necessary supply of nutrients for subsequent abundant flowering. But sometimes there is still one or two leaves that have not withered on the bulb for quite a long time. If they do not interfere with your further storage of the amaryllis pot, you can leave them. Often they are carefully bent or cut at the base of the bulb to save space when stored, for example, on shelving in a cool pantry or a warm enough garage that does not drop below freezing in winter.

How to store amaryllis in the dormant period?

At rest, the bulbs usually retain living roots, at least the skeletal and largest ones, so they need to be watered occasionally (every 15-20 days). Bulbs do not need light during dormancy, so they can be placed in a dark, cool and necessarily dry place. Pots with resting bulbs are kept at a temperature of about + 5- + 12 ° С. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or in bulk in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: the bulbs of hippeastrums and amaryllis are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values.

When does amaryllis usually bloom?

At home, the normal flowering period of amaryllis is mid-February - the first half of March. Very often, amaryllis bloom precisely on Valentine's Day or on the holiday of March 8, which for many years replaced Valentine's Day with us. 7 to 10 weeks before the desired flowering period, move pots with rested bulbs to a warmer and brighter room, as described above. The abundance of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, the temperature and dryness of the surrounding air, as well as the humidity of the earthen coma. By following these simple guidelines, you will be rewarded with regular blooms for your amaryllis every year.

How and when should amaryllis be transplanted?

It is desirable to replant and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years. The root system is not cut off during planting and transplanting, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling cuts with crushed charcoal. When transplanting, carefully separate the babies that often appear near the bulbs and, if necessary, plant them in separate pots, designating the variety. Babies usually bloom around the third year after separation and transplantation. When transplanting, the diameter of the dishes is only slightly increased, since in a “cramped” dish, amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster.

replant plants better in spring, about 3-5 weeks after flowering. This is due to the fact that faded bulbs are greatly depleted and reduced in diameter, since flowering occurs almost exclusively due to the reserves of the bulb itself. Faded plants are carefully cleaned of withered and dried outer scales and transplanted into smaller pots with a new nutrient substrate. The sizes of pots for amaryllis were discussed above. In summer, they are kept in the same way as young plants, regularly feeding.

As the diameter of the bulb increases, it can be transferred to a slightly larger container. But this must be done very carefully so as not to greatly damage the earthen lump and roots. At this moment, you can insert mineral nutrient sticks (fertilizers) of prolonged action into the lower part of the earthy coma. Do okay developing plant the root system densely and evenly permeates the entire earthen ball and does not allow it to fall apart. If this is not so, then you need to understand what prevents the plant from developing normally and accepting everything. necessary measures to eliminate these adverse factors.

How to propagate amaryllis?

Amaryllis is propagated by seeds and baby bulbs. Seed propagation is practiced only for selection and hybridization; for amateur floriculture, this method of propagation is considered very costly and ineffective. Let me share a little of my sad experience. In my school years, I wanted to understand what would happen when crossing red and white amaryllis. At the same time, I received seeds on both white and red specimens. There were quite a lot of seeds in all seed boxes. Germination was good and almost all planted seeds from both amaryllis sprouted. There were about a hundred seedlings, I simply did not plant more, due to lack of space. Gradually growing up, they began to take up more and more space, and I had to compact them or distribute them to friends. Having reached adulthood, they all bloomed, but I never got any outstanding or at least white-pink colors. Almost all colors were red. After interviewing all the friends with whom I shared the seedlings, I realized that their colors almost completely repeated mine. This whole experiment took me about 5 years. Perhaps I was just unlucky, but that was the end of my desire to become an amaryllis "breeder".

modern varieties.

improvement or search for new varieties with classic large double and non-double flowers. I would like to note such terry varieties as Celica, Double Roma, Double Dragon, Ice Queen, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Macarena, Promise etc. Among the non-double monochrome forms, for my taste, very interesting varieties Black Pearl, Ampulo, Benfica, Exotica, Faro, Lemon Lime, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Rosalie, White Baby and etc.;

search for fundamentally new two- or multi-color colors, or giving new shades to existing ones. I would note such modern varieties as Charisma, Gervesa, Temptatia, Prelude, misty, clown, neon, Estella, Santa Cruz, papillio, Pizazz and etc.;

the search for new flower forms, for example, the so-called narrow-petal varieties of amaryllis or "spiders", from the English "spider" - a spider. This group includes varieties Spotty, Santana, Grandeur, Night Star, Chico, Lima, Evergreen, La Paz etc. All of them look very nice in group compositions, but single flowers, in my opinion, lose a lot to large-flowered hybrids.

Amaryllis outdoors.

In the southern regions of the Russian Federation, amaryllis can also be grown in open ground, but, be sure to remember that he is afraid negative temperatures. If there is a threat of frost, amaryllis bulbs should be brought into temperature-controlled rooms in advance. Bulbs should be planted outdoors mainly in sunny places or partial shade only after the threat of return frosts has disappeared.

In most regions of the Russian Federation, in winter, amaryllis hibernates only as a houseplant with a pronounced dormant period from about the end of October to the beginning of February.

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Home " Foundation » How to store amaryllis bulbs in winter. Rules for caring for amaryllis in winter: features of growth and storage

The main attraction of amaryllis is its huge inflorescences. But often novice flower growers, who first planted this plant and water it all year round, after a few years wonder why the amaryllis flowers were crushed or if it completely stopped blooming. And the reason for this behavior of the flower is that it is not allowed to rest. Amaryllis is one of those indoor plants that need a dormant period. If you give the plant a rest to recuperate, it will still delight with its flowering.

What does rest mean for amaryllis?

Amaryllis has a very interesting life cycle:

1. The bulbs first germinate (they have light plump roots on the bottom).
2. Then a powerful peduncle begins to emerge from the top of the bulb.
3. When it stretches to the required height, inflorescences open (usually not all at once, but one by one).
4. After the end of flowering, active growth of leaves begins.
5. With the onset of autumn and until the beginning of spring, the bulbs should rest before the next flowering.

During the period of active growth, which lasts until autumn, it is better to plant amaryllis in the garden. According to the observations of flower growers practicing this method, bulbs growing in open ground are larger than those left in a pot, which means they have more nutrients.

Thus, a dormant period is necessary for the plant so that the bulbs can recover from such intense work as flowering and foliage growth. If she is not given such an opportunity, the amaryllis will continue to grow and form new leaves, but a weakened bulb will hardly be able to bloom in a year or two.

How to prepare the bulb for rest?

Preparation of amaryllis for wintering should begin with the cessation of watering (gradual). In addition, the pot must be rearranged in a dark place. In the absence of watering and light, new roots and leaves will cease to form, and the leafy cap will gradually fade.

When this happens, the bulb must be removed from the flowerpot, cleaned of the soil and cut the roots. Then rinse in potassium permanganate and dry.

Where to store the bulb in winter?

Bulbs should winter in a dark, cool place, but it is not easy to find this in apartment conditions. The balcony is not very suitable for wintering, especially open, because there the bulb will freeze and die.

The best option is to store it on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. Every two weeks it is necessary to check the condition of the bulbs. If there is no free space there, then you can just leave the bulb in the flowerpot.

Before placing the onion in the refrigerator, it should be wrapped in a napkin or toilet paper.

In mid-February, amaryllis should be taken out of the refrigerator and put into distillation.

Amaryllis wintering features - video

In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, amaryllis leaves naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a dormant period, amaryllis and hippeastrums begin to grow leaves again, and the peduncle and buds are laid.

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Preparing amaryllis for a dormant period

The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. In hippeastrums, a dormant period occurs after the plant has faded, because hippeastrums can be driven out at any time of the year, and not just at the end of summer or early autumn. Early forcing in the fall or late is possible - then the hippeastrum blooms at the end of winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.

But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a dormant period. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The remaining varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum for the summer in the ground, then you need to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

Leaves are a source of nutrients

However, the bulb after the flowering of amaryllis is not dug immediately, you must first allow the leaves to do an important job - to supply the bulb with nutrients.

In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and allow it to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, while giving all the strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. When the leaves turn completely yellow and die off, the plant will go dormant on its own.

Wintering of amaryllis and hippeastrums

The main dormant period for amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted in open ground for the summer, then after flowering, amaryllis must be dug up and transplanted into a pot even before frost.

Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to transplant these flowers every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily endure frost, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.

But if you decide to take the hippeastrum into the house for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature in the range of 10-18 ° C.

Temperature conditions for amaryllis (hippeastrum)

At rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is around 15°C, but a temperature of 10°C is also considered acceptable, and the upper figure is 18°C. If it is cooler, the bulb may get sick, and if it drops below 5 ° C, it may die.

Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5 ° C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. Higher temperatures than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.

This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, namely, complete rest guarantees the laying of a healthy flower arrow.

During dormancy, watering the bulb is only necessary so that it does not dry out - once a month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into the pan so that in conditions of cool air and excess water, the bulb does not rot.

You will know that the recovery period is over when the flower arrow appears at the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and top dressing should be started only after this arrow stretches to 10 cm. From this moment, a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.

With a fairly cool climate in our region, one of the most favorite houseplants is the amaryllis blooming in winter.

Modern varieties of this native of the warm countries of Africa can be completely different color shades - from pure white to purple, dark crimson and, no matter how strange it may seem, green. There are also representatives of this species with striped or double flowers.

This bulbous plant is considered one of the most convenient for forcing at home, which even an inexperienced amateur grower can do.

Growth features

Given that amaryllis blooms exclusively in the second half of winter, it is necessary to adhere to the seasonal rules for keeping this flower. There are few such rules, but still they exist, and this is especially true for the winter period. To understand some of the features of such seasonal amaryllis care, let's follow the entire life cycle of the plant step by step.

1. Bulb germination begins with the appearance of plump, light-colored roots on its bottom.
2. After rooting, active growth of a powerful and strong peduncle begins.
3. When the peduncle reaches a certain length, inflorescences form on its top and their successive (sometimes simultaneous) opening occurs, that is, the plant begins to bloom.
4. At the end of flowering, the peduncle gradually fades, and the amaryllis begins to actively grow foliage.
5. Starting from mid-September and until spring, amaryllis begins the so-called dormant period.

Many indoor plant lovers are not fully familiar with how to properly prepare this flower for winter hibernation. Consider what and how to do.

Read about the nuances of planting and growing amaryllis, as well as the rules for caring for a flower, here.

Condition during the winter

As mentioned above, within 7-8 months, the amaryllis has a period of active vegetation. During this time, the bulb of the plant gives all its strength, first to the pasture of a powerful and fleshy peduncle, then to a two-three-week flowering, after which all the remaining forces go into the growth of also quite powerful and large leaves.

It is not at all surprising that after such a vegetative "marathon" the plant needs a certain period of time to recuperate.

The dormant period is simply necessary for amaryllis to restore the bulbs to subsequent growth and flowering cycles.

Exactly like this dormant period occurs in amaryllis in the second half of September, when the plant sheds all the extended foliage, slows down the vegetative processes and prepares for wintering.

How to store?

Once we notice that the foliage of the plant begins to lose its usually pronounced dark green color and wither, the amaryllis must be immediately helped to go into a dormant stage.

Conditions

The temperature regime for wintering amaryllis bulbs should be such as not to allow vegetation processes to start. The temperature should be within + 2 + 15 degrees. Another necessary condition should be the lack of light and low humidity in the room where the amaryllis will winter.

Step-by-step instruction

If the flower is not helped to go into the dormant stage, its growth and the formation of new leaves will continue, which will greatly weaken the bulb and within 1-2 years the plant will lose its ability to bloom (read about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it release buds, read here ). To do this, you need to take the following measures:

1. gradually stop or minimize the watering of the flower;
2. when all the leaves turn yellow and sag, they must be completely cut off, and the bulb should be moved to a dark and fairly cool place (pantry, basement, not very heated garage, etc.).

I would like to note a very common mistake of amateur flower growers who send amaryllis to rest without removing the bulb from the ground, that is, along with the pot. This is strongly discouraged. After the complete withering of all the foliage on the plant, it must, as already mentioned a little higher, be completely removed.

After that the amaryllis bulb should be carefully removed from the pot along with the planting soil. Then you need to carefully free the rhizomes of the plant from this very planting soil, along the way checking for damaged or dried parts of the root on the bulb and, if any, remove them with small scissors.

After such preliminary preparation, the bulb can be sent to rest in a cool and dark place, where it will recover and gain strength for the next vegetation cycle within 3-5 months.

1. First of all, it is necessary to isolate the damaged specimens of the amaryllis bulbs from the undamaged ones so that the fungus or infection does not pass to the latter.
2. Onions damaged by the pest should be brought into a warm room and re-treated with a mild manganese solution or specialized products designed to disinfect bulbous plants.
3. After treatment with such disinfectants, it is imperative to let the bulbs dry well.
4. To re-wrap processed amaryllis bulbs, in no case should you use the same paper in which they were wrapped before. You should take fresh clean tissues or clean layers of toilet paper.
5. After all the preparations, amaryllis bulbs should be sent back to storage in a dark and cool room.

Read more about why amaryllis leaves turn yellow, pests and fungal diseases appear, as well as how to cure a flower, read here.

Amaryllis is not only a model of beauty among flowers of this kind, but also a very, very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. With proper maintenance in winter conditions, the bulb, planted in mid-February in a flower pot, by the end of March will be able to please its owner of extraordinary beauty with flowering.

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Conditions for growing amaryllis

1. Location:

2. Lighting conditions:

3. Humidity:

4. Ventilation

5. Optimum room temperature:

How to plant amaryllis

Pot selection

Soil preparation

Planting amaryllis step by step

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and with a smooth surface, which have fairly good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of decay and mold damage, spots. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, it is also not worth choosing.

Amaryllis transplant

Reproduction of amaryllis

Amaryllis from seeds at home

• Embedding depth 1-1.5 cm.

dividing the bulb

How to cut an amaryllis bulb, the video will tell:

Reproduction by children

The most successful amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store bulbs, but a slightly larger pot is chosen. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

Amaryllis care at home

Watering and feeding

Amaryllis bloom at home

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Amaryllis after flowering

Experienced flower growers know the tricks, because of which their amaryllis is twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. For this, a dormant period is strictly organized to rest the bulb and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from their place of rest, put them in a bright and insulated place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

2. Mold and rot

3. Spider mite

4. Onion mite

5. Thrips

6. Mealybug

9. Aphid

• Yellowness of leaves.

10. Springtail

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

This does not mean that classic amaryllis is not in demand on the market. Standard cultivars such as Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purplish-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Photo of plants

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

1. Flowering time:

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Aroma intensity:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• in amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. The number of flowers in one plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

7. The presence of leaves during flowering:

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

9. Peduncle length:

• in amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb in shape:

• pear-shaped;

11. Characteristics of scales:

Description of amaryllis

Amaryllis is a popular houseplant found in the flower collections of many flower growers. Demanded due to its beautiful flowers and easy care. To make the amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don’t need to try hard. This task will be suitable for beginners as well. If you want to have a plant with beautiful flowers at home, but do not want to do much with it, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for this purpose.

Conditions for growing amaryllis

In amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the vegetation phase. So, at a certain time, the plant actively grows, and at another time, it has a dormant time. Growers need to be aware of the inability of amaryllis to survive in very cold conditions where temperatures hover around freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.

Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.

1. Location:

• In the growth phase, this window is in the southeast or southwest. You can put the plant on the south window, if you first shade it from the scorching daylight rays of the sun. Otherwise, the leaves will burn out from intense lighting.
• During dormancy, the plant is placed in a dark place, where the air is slightly cool and well ventilated.

2. Lighting conditions:

• In the growth phase, powerful diffused sunlight should fall on the plant for 14-16 hours every day. Both the leaves and the peduncle usually stretch towards the sun, which means that the pot will constantly have to be rotated so that they grow strictly vertically. You can also equip the plant with special props.
• During the dormant period, accordingly, no additional lighting requirements are put forward.

3. Humidity:

The plant loves moisture very much, so it is recommended to water it with regularly settled water at room temperature, it is possible through a pan, excess water from which is drained after 6-8 hours. They make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but it is not necessary to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, more water is needed. If it stagnates, then rotting of the roots, wilting of the leaves, loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not harm the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisten the buds before flowering. The optimum humidity should be 60-80%.

During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only periodically sprayed. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and germinates up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.

4. Ventilation

Amaryllis needs to ensure regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.

5. Optimum room temperature:

• During the active growing season - 22–24ºС during the daytime and 18ºС at night. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not suffer from constant temperature fluctuations.
• During the dormant period, both day and night, the temperature should be 10-12ºС.

How to plant amaryllis

Planting amaryllis at home photo

Pot selection

Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It should be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can topple itself. In addition, during care, a light pot is more likely to hurt than a massive one.

The size of the vessel is chosen based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. And this means that it should be up to 3-5 cm from it to all walls. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and gradually narrows at the top.

Soil preparation

It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.

The next step is to choose the soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs there. But any experienced grower will abandon this idea and go to prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: for this, it is doused with strong boiling water or kept over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.

The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:

• turf, garden soil and river sand in equal parts and half of the humus;
• turf, garden soil, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
• humus, soddy land and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

At the bottom, it is necessary to fill up drainage with a thickness of 2-3 cm. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, accessible brick chips, small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drainage is mixed with the substrate and spread over the surface of the pot. It also has a large hole for water drainage.

Drainage from above is also covered with sand by 2-3 cm, in order to additionally be safe from root rotting due to water accumulation.

Planting amaryllis step by step

Planting indoor amaryllis photo

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface, which have fairly good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of decay and mold damage, spots. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, it is also not worth choosing.

Amaryllis transplant

How to transplant amaryllis at home

Amaryllis transplantation is carried out after it has faded, waiting for the peduncle to completely wither.

It is not necessary to replant the plant every year, but the operation is carried out no more than once every three years. If the amaryllis grows too fast, you can transplant earlier.

To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of potted soil with new ones every year.

1. Before transplanting, the plant is watered abundantly for 4 days.
2. On the day of transplantation, the amaryllis is carefully taken out along with the earth and carefully cleaned of it to inspect the condition of the roots. Rotting roots are removed with a sharp knife, and all sections are treated with activated carbon powder or ordinary ash.
3. Then all bad scales are removed from the bulb and daughter plants are separated. They are used to plant in new pots. If you understand that the babies are too small to separate (sometimes they are only a few millimeters), you can not do this. But it should be borne in mind that in such cases, amaryllis may stop blooming in order to grow children.

Before an adult plant is planted in another pot, it must be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer are applied under the roots.

Reproduction of amaryllis

Breeders and flower growers use all three possible methods of amaryllis propagation - dividing the bulb, children and seeds.

Amaryllis seeds photo How to get amaryllis seeds

This is the longest breeding method and the least successful. If the seeds are collected from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.

Amaryllis seeds at home

To get seeds, you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pestle of the other. As a result, a box is formed in which the seeds will then ripen. Ripening takes at least a month.

Amaryllis from seed seedling photo

• Seeds are planted immediately, as germination drops sharply over time.
• Moisten the soil well before planting.
• Embedding depth 1-1.5 cm.
• Distance between seeds 3-5 cm
• The pot with seeds is placed in a warm shaded place.
• They expect about a month of germination, and 3 months after that, the seedlings dive into different pots.

dividing the bulb

How to cut amaryllis bulbs photo

This is the most risky method, since you can be left with nothing.

• Choose the healthiest onion and divide it into 4-8 shares, without cutting to the end. Make sure that each of them has 1-2 scales and part of the bottom. Be sure to treat the sections with activated carbon powder or ash.
• The bulb is planted in the usual way and grown at 25-27 ºС.
• On delenki, the first leaf grows first. They wait for the second, and plant the plants already in adult soil for bulbs, which is mixed with an equal amount of sand.

How to cut an amaryllis bulb, the video will tell:

Many growers have successfully used bulb division to propagate amaryllis, it's important to just do it right and not be afraid to take risks.

Reproduction by children

The most successful way to propagate amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store bulbs, but a slightly larger pot is chosen. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

1. Find small onions on the mother amaryllis and separate them from the adult plant. The next step is to plant them in a pot with drainage and soil, placing the bottom down and lightly pressing into the ground. Only part of the bulb is left above the surface.
2. Then lightly tamp the soil and water it well. Place new amaryllis in a bright and warm place.
3. There is no need to organize a rest period. Feeding and watering are not reduced, and rest is organized for flowers only after flowering.

Amaryllis - although an exotic plant, but quite real in everyone's house. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.

Amaryllis care at home

Amaryllis planting and care at home photo

Watering and feeding

During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the height of the peduncle is at least 10 cm. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant form. Sometimes it is better to refuse watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that water does not get on the bulb during watering. It should fall purely on the soil around.

In winter, so much water should not flow to the plant. It is enough not to spray more than once a week.

• Fertilize amaryllis every 12-14 days, starting this process when buds form.
• With intensive flowering, reduce the interval by half. There is no need to specifically select fertilizers. For this, any ready-made products for indoor flowering will fit - Kemira Lux, Emerald, Bona Forte, Ideal, Ava, Rainbow, Florist, Master Color, Agricola, Living World, Reasil, Bud, Life Force and others.
• Fertilizers with more potassium and phosphorus are preferable than nitrogen.

It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted from a ratio of 1.5 cups in 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a cup per 10 liters.

With the complete death of the leaves, top dressing stops. It is not carried out in the resting phase either.

Amaryllis bloom at home

Amaryllis in the wild enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture, there are tricks on how to change this period. The simplest is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, giving mature flower stalks as early as 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to load the bulb abundantly with flowering.

When the first flower appeared and blossomed, some cut the peduncle and put it in a vase. Subject to daily renewal of water, he can hold out there for up to three weeks. You can not cut the peduncle, but it will last the same amount, and it will deplete the bulb much more. To maximize the flowering time, the vase or flower pot is placed in a cooler and darker place.

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Why amaryllis does not bloom How to make amaryllis bloom

You must understand which reason you have listed. It must be eliminated and the result expected.

Amaryllis after flowering

1. When the flowers wither, the amount of incoming water and fertilizers is sharply reduced. Completely stop watering and feeding amaryllis when neither the peduncle nor the leaves are left.
2. Remove all dead leaves, but you should not force it. If a partially live leaf is left, it will still feed the plant.
3. When the dormant phase has finally begun, the pot is transferred to the dark. Remember that the roots are still alive, so the soil needs to be irrigated once a week with a spray bottle.

Another care option (but risky) is digging up the bulbs, cleaning them, and putting them in cardboard boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.

Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make their amaryllis flowers bloom twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. For this, a dormant period is strictly organized to rest the bulb and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from their place of rest, put them in a bright and insulated place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

red amaryllis burn photo

• The bulb is covered with small red spots, the edges of the scales have the same border.
• Amaryllis is soaked for 2 hours in strong purple potassium permanganate, after which the largest foci are cut off and treated with brilliant green. The plant is kept in the air for a week, then planted.

2. Mold and rot

Rot on amaryllis photo

• The surface of the bulb is covered with red-gray spots. Then it becomes softer, smells of a sweetish type. The leaves are covered with red-brown stripes and spots.
• The affected leaves are completely cut off, and the bulb itself is sprayed with 0.05% Bordeaux mixture. You can choose Fundazol and HOM in the dilution indicated by the manufacturer.

3. Spider mite

• It is felt that the leaves are covered with cobwebs. This causes them to wither and dry out.
• Amaryllis is treated with Oberon, Kleschevit, Nisoran, Floromite, Neoron.

4. Onion mite

The defeat of amaryllis with an onion mite photo

• The insect infects the bulb itself, which leads to inhibition of plant development and the absence of flowering. Even if there are flowers, they are deformed. And the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• Bulbs are removed from the pots and placed in water at 35-40ºС for 5 minutes. After that, they are treated with Keltan and Rogor. There is also a more aggressive method - the bulb is closed in an airtight container with a sulfur checker, which is set on fire. Wait 2 hours and then get it back. To achieve the final effect, keep the amaryllis in the fresh air for another day.

5. Thrips

The defeat of amaryllis thrips photo

• There are many small brown dots on the leaves.
• They try to remove all pests from the leaves, wash the plant and transplant into a sterile pot and soil. Then the amaryllis is treated with Agravertin and Fitoverm.

6. Mealybug

Mealybug on amaryllis photo

Shield on amaryllis photo

• Dense scales are observed from the bottom of the leaves. They can be almost white and even dark brown. Around them, there are secretions of a sticky nature, similar in type to syrup.
• The sponge is impregnated with laundry soap and foamed. She actively rub the leaves.

9. Aphid

Aphids on amaryllis photo

• Yellowness of leaves.
• All pests are harvested by hand, after which the leaves are wiped with soapy water.

10. Springtail

Springtails on amaryllis photo

• Small white insects are noticeable on the surface of the soil.
• Reduce the flow of moisture, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with insecticides.

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

The shops sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis, which are bred selectively. Real Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and is valued by avid flower growers.

At the moment, breeders are achieving the following tasks:

• Breeding large double and ordinary flowers. The most beautiful terry-type hybrids are the Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Promise. Of the non-terry varieties, these are Benfica, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Black Pearl, Exotica, Lemon-Lime, Rosalie.
• Search for unique shades and their combinations. In this sense, Clown, Charisma, Estella, Prelude, Santa Cruz, Neon and other varieties are good.
• Working with new forms of flowers. The recent trend in breeding is the breeding of amaryllis with narrow, partially corrugated petals along the edges. This can be seen in the varieties Evergreen, Night Star, Lima, La Paz, Santana.

This does not mean that amaryllis classic varieties are not in demand on the market. Standard cultivars such as Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purplish-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Photo of plants

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences photo In the photo amaryllis

Amaryllis and hippeastrum are from the Amaryllis family. Only in the first genus there are significantly more plants. At least 90 species grow only in the wild, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family has up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences In the photo, hippeastrum

In order not to repeat, below, each first paragraph - refers to amaryllis, the second - to hippeastrum.

1. Flowering time:

• amaryllis blooms in late summer - early autumn;
• hippeastrum - in late winter or early spring.

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Aroma intensity:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• in amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. The number of flowers in one plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

• almost white, pink in different shades, red;
• red, pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, green and combinations of these colors.

7. The presence of leaves during flowering:

• no - they germinate only after the peduncle has grown;
• present during flowering.

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

• a dense tube without voids, the color of which gives off a little purple;
• a hollow tube that is easy to crush when pressed, has a green color with a grayish-brown tint.

9. Peduncle length:

• in amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb in shape:

• pear-shaped;
• slightly elongated or round, slightly flattened laterally.

11. Characteristics of scales:

• ash-gray in color, have a small fringe from the upper edge;
• very similar in appearance to the classic edible onion, but have a white or green surface color.

Description of amaryllis

Planting and flowering of amaryllis Amaryllis reproduction and care at home

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the amaryllis family (lat. Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed to him one species of plant - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers claim that the plant spread from the Olifants River Valley from the Cape Province of South Africa. As for other species, here the geography is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the birthplace of plants.

For the first time, the genus Amaryllis was described by the famous Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. He is credited with the name of this flower. Before his work, there was an opinion that amaryllis is only one of the subspecies of the lily. It was called Lilionarcissus. Linnaeus realized that this was a separate plant, but made a significant error in taxonomy by including a number of varieties of hippeastrum in the genus Amaryllis. To this day, many people confuse these plants.

The name of the plant is first found in the work of Virgil. In his poetic works, you can meet the heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllida. This name in Greek means "sparkling".

Amaryllis flowers care Amaryllis flower photo

Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The green of the plant is so narrow and long that it looks like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.

A mark of the beginning of flowering of amaryllis is the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Leaves will follow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. By type of inflorescence - an umbrella.

Amaryllis grown in the wild can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders artificially bred many hybrid varieties of yellow, purple, orange, green. A separate amaryllis flower looks like a lily and - a gramophone, being 10-12 centimeters in diameter.

Amaryllis belladonna Amaryllis Belladonna planting and care at home photo

Despite the seeming cuteness of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorine was found in the bulb. If it gets on the skin, it will irritate. All planting operations with the plant should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap and water. It is necessary to keep the flower away from pets and children.

Amaryllis, the care of which is quite simple if you follow simple rules, is a bulbous plant from the family of the same name. A native of South Africa, he was brought to Europe in the 18th century, where he quickly took one of the leading positions among flowering ornamental crops.

Types and varieties of plants

The genus is represented by the only species that is known under two names - Amaryllis Belladonna or Amaryllis Beautiful. A perennial plant with a bulbous root system has xiphoid basal leaves in two rows, framing a fleshy peduncle up to 60 cm tall. When flowering at the end of the arrow, an umbrella inflorescence is formed, consisting of flowers with a diameter of 5-8 cm with a variety of colors, depending on the variety.

After the appearance of amaryllis in the gardens and on the windowsills of Europeans, breeders do not stop working on the development of new varieties, among which stand out:

• Durban- a large-flowered variety, distinguished by carmine-red bell-shaped flowers with a white throat.
• Parker- a typical representative of a pink color with a yellow base of the petals.
• ice queen- a variety with large flowers, consisting of glossy white petals with a creamy coating around the edges.
• Vera- pink flowers of this variety have a distinctive feature in the form of a mother-of-pearl coating.
• red lion- a beautiful representative of the species with large flowers, painted in intense red.
• La Paz- an original variety with flowers consisting of narrowed green petals with a border in the form of a red coating.

Amaryllis: growing features

The plant, which is highly decorative in combination with undemanding, has a number of features associated with the natural environment that must be considered when cultivating a flower at home:

• enough light;
• moderation of watering;
• correct selection of the pot;
• feeding regularity.

Home care

Successful cultivation of amaryllis requires adherence to basic care measures.

Lighting and location

Amaryllis needs a stream of soft light, which is possible to provide a flower when placed on the windowsills of the southeast and southwest directions with additional protection from direct sunlight during the period of greatest solar activity. Curtains can be used as protection.

Important! In the summer season, daylight hours should be at least 16 hours.

Temperature

The temperature regime for the full development of amaryllis depends on the phase of development:

• In the phase of active growth, the optimum temperature varies from 18 to 25°C, depending on the time of day.
• During the dormant period, a temperature regime is provided in the range from 10 to 16 ° C.

Carefully! When growing a culture, strong temperature changes that adversely affect the plant should not be allowed.

Soil and pot requirements

To obtain a flowering plant, it is necessary to select a small container. The soil for filling the pot is required with a slightly acidic reaction in the range of 6.0-6.5 points and a loose structure. A nutrient substrate prepared from soddy and leafy soils, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1 is calcined in an oven to destroy pathogens before use.

Watering the flower and air humidity

When watering a flower, which should be carried out after the earthen clod has dried, the lower method of moistening is used: the pot is placed in a pan with water for 20-30 minutes, which helps prevent unwanted water from entering the bulb, which occurs during the upper irrigation method. Amaryllis easily adapts to dry air in the apartment, so it does not require additional spraying.

Advice! To facilitate the breathing of a flower through the leaf plates, you should systematically wipe them from dust.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Amaryllis needs regular feeding during the period of active growth:

• bird droppings, diluted in water in a proportion of 10 g per bucket of liquid;
• mullein at the rate of 250 g per bucket of water;
• a solution of mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content, prepared from a bucket of water and 3 g of an agrochemical.

Attention! An excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause a red flower burn.

Flowering and pruning

With the advent of autumn, the flowering of the culture is noted, which, unlike the hippeastrum, occurs after the development of the green mass. In the natural environment, this period, during which flowers of white and pink flowers bloom, falls in autumn. In culture, many varieties with a variety of colors have been bred. After flowering, the shoots die off naturally, and pruning is not required.

Transfer

The amaryllis flower is transplanted every 3-4 years after flowering is completed.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. A new container is selected so that the distance between the wall of the pot and the edge of the bulb is 2-3 cm.
2. Expanded clay drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot.
3. The bulb is inspected for diseases and placed in a pot, after which it is sprinkled with a new substrate so that ⅓ of the part remains above the ground.
4. The substrate is compacted and slightly moistened.

rest period

After the end of the flowering phase, the plant begins to prepare for a dormant period, which lasts an average of 2 months: watering and top dressing are reduced. Foliage shedding signals the beginning of active bulb growth. At this time, the pot is moved to a dark room, where the temperature should not exceed 16 ° C. Humidification is carried out as needed, when the earthen clod dries.

Disease and pest control

The flower is affected by diseases in the form of rot if the maintenance regulations are violated - excessive watering, a high concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate. With the intensive development of the disease, the plant may die. To prevent this, it is necessary to strictly comply with agrotechnical requirements. Among the pests noted on amaryllis, spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects stand out, which should be dealt with by spraying the plant with insecticidal preparations according to the instructions indicated on the package.

Reproduction of amaryllis

Amaryllis is bred in two ways: generative and vegetative.

seeds

Due to the laboriousness of the method and the inability to maintain varietal qualities, seed propagation at home is extremely rare.

If, nevertheless, the florist decided, then:

1. Artificial pollination is carried out with a brush.
2. After two months, when the seed pods begin to crack, the seed is collected.
3. Dried seeds are distributed over the surface of light moistened soil in January-February, and sprinkled with a 0.5 cm layer of earth.
4. The container is kept at a temperature of 22-25°C under glass until emergence.
5. After the seedlings have 1 pair of true leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate pots.

Attention! New plants obtained in this way will please the first flowering only after a seven-year period of growth.

babes

With the next transplant, reproduction can be carried out by separating the children:

1. With the help of a sharp instrument, a baby with roots is separated from the mother bulb.
2. Sections are disinfected with an antiseptic in the form of crushed activated carbon or a fungicide solution.
3. A small bulb is planted in a separate pot with a prepared amaryllis substrate and moved to a warm room for rooting. After 1-3 years, mature bulbs will grow that can bloom.

dividing the bulb

The most popular technique in which:

1. A large bulb is selected, freed from scales, after which it is divided into 4 parts.
2. Delenki are immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection.
3. After half an hour, the parts are buried by ⅓ in a special substrate and kept at a temperature of 22 ° C until rooting.

Why amaryllis does not bloom, flowers and leaves turn pale?

Despite the unpretentiousness of the culture, non-compliance with the basic agrotechnical requirements can lead to the loss of decorative flower or the complete absence of inflorescences.

The main reasons are:

• lack of lighting;
• lack of macro- and microelements;
• lack of a resting phase;
• untimely transplant;
• deep embedment of the bulb;
• constant overflows that led to the development of diseases;
• incorrectly selected pot;
• the presence of pests.

Important! If less than three years have passed since the bulb was planted, the absence of a flowering phase is a normal physiological process.

How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Often, hippeastrums from the tropical zones of South America, the genus of which has more than 85 varieties, are mistaken for amaryllis, represented by only one species.

There are a number of parameters that will help the grower not to make a mistake:

• bulb - in amaryllis, the bulb is pear-shaped, while in a tropical flower it is round;
• inflorescence - in amaryllis, umbrellas consist of 6-12 flowers, while in hippeastrum - from 6 pieces maximum;
• flowering - in amaryllis, flowers bloom in autumn, and in hippeastrum - in spring and summer;
• peduncle - the hippeastrum has a hollow arrow.

So, the amaryllis flower is a failure of a beautifully flowering plant that requires minimal but proper care. Fulfillment of all requirements for the content of culture at home will allow the grower to get a healthy plant with beautiful large inflorescences of marvelous beauty.

plant care guide

Once every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during the dormant period - about 15 During flowering - when the topsoil dries out, do not water during the dormant period Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poison juice, observance of periods of growth and dormancy

Lighting

During growth, the plant prefers bright diffused light; in summer, direct sunlight is allowed only from 11:00 to 15:00.

For normal development, amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight.. During dormancy, amaryllis bulbs do not need light.

The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On the south window, amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.

During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly rotated so that the peduncle does not bend.

Temperature

Temperature regime during active growth:

• Daytime 20–22°C;
• At night not less than 18°C.

During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place.. The optimum temperature will be around 15 ° C, the minimum 10 ° C, and the maximum 18 ° C. At low temperatures, the bulb may die, and at high temperatures, it will germinate too quickly, preventing the plant from fully resting.

In summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since the differences in day and night temperatures in the middle lane are significant. This plant does not like a sharp decrease or increase in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.

For this flower, a dormant period is necessary. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and release a peduncle in spring, it can be kept at room temperature 20-22ºС, but in relative dryness. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.

Watering

During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Frequency of watering - the top layer of soil between watering should dry slightly. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature.. It is important that water does not get on the bulbs.

When flowering is over, watering is reduced, and after 2 months it is completely stopped.

During this time, the amaryllis loses its leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.

After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), They switch to normal watering, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.

If the air in the room is too dry, it is allowed to spray the buds a little. It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, as well as bulbs during the dormant period.

The soil

For amaryllis, a soil consisting of soddy land (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part) is suitable. Soil acidity should be pH 6.0-6.5.

You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are its ingredients:

• Sod land - 2 parts;
• Leaf land - 2 parts;
• Humus - 1 part;
• Peat - 1 part;
• Washed river sand - 1 part.

Sand can be replaced with baking powder such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified composition of the soil will ensure the outflow of excess water into the pan during irrigation.

Also, in order to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is essential to prevent root and bulb rot.

Light and loose soil, slightly acidic or with neutral acidity, is suitable for amaryllis. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. They are easiest to purchase at flower shops or garden centers.

Fertilizer

During active growth and flowering, top dressing is carried out 1 time in 10 days. To do this, use a complex liquid fertilizer suitable for flowering plants.

At the end of flowering, top dressing is reduced, and after the leaves wither, they stop completely.. Fertilization is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.

Fertilizing the soil for amaryllis begins when flower stalks appear from the bulb in spring. Use liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants or special formulations for bulbous plants.

It is important not to overfeed the plants after the formation of leaves and the end of flowering. This species grows leaves after the formation of the peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizers for flowering plants, never using formulations for deciduous varieties. This allows you to maximize flowering and reduce the rate of leaf growth.

Humidity

Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so it is not necessary to spray it.

The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or higher, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.

For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to wipe the leaves regularly or wash them in the shower.

Peculiarities

For the normal development and abundant flowering of amaryllis, it is required to follow special rules for care during the period of growth and dormancy. Also, amaryllis is a poisonous plant and you need to work with it only with gloves.

Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous houseplant. Do not allow juice to come into contact with skin or food. But do not rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, it is enough just to follow the precautions.

Periods of growth and dormancy

Consider how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as an ordinary houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.

After flowering amaryllis, you need to remove the flower stalks. The leaves do not need to be touched - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.

In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to provide a dormant period.. To do this, from August you need to reduce watering and stop feeding. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. At the same time, the leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they should be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.

In September-early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and cleaned in a dark, dry and cool (13–15 ° C) place. The dormant period will begin when there is not a single green leaf left on the plant and will last 6–8 weeks.

Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and they begin to water it regularly. From this moment, the period of growth begins again.

Keep the soil moist before and after flowering and rotate the plant constantly for even growth. During this period, the optimum temperature will be 13-18 ° C. 4-8 weeks after the resumption of watering, the amaryllis should bloom.

amaryllis bloom

The flowering period of amaryllis falls at the end of autumn or the beginning of winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which an inflorescence is located. Usually during flowering, the leaves of the plant are absent. Sometimes 1 pair of leaves grows together with the peduncle.

With optimal care, amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without harming the plant. For this, adult specimens are suitable, with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm. They will bloom in the summer, subject to regular feeding in the spring.

To induce natural flowering of amaryllis in the summer, you need to create an additional dormant period for it. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded one, away from the window.

Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After a 2-week stay in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.

After the formation of the peduncle, the plant begins to be watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.

Diseases

Amaryllis can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold. Signs of infection: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or a grayish velvety coating on leaves.

As a rule, too humid air and waterlogging of the soil lead to the disease.

The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so a diseased plant must be transplanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.

The plant can be infested with thrips or aphids. Signs: leaves turn yellow and deform.

Small reddish spots may appear when infested with mites. In pest control, insecticide treatment, which must be carried out several times, will help.

Problems

• Flowers turn pale. Reason: direct sunlight;
• The flowers darken or even turn black. Cause: damp air and low room temperature;
• The leaves turn pale and the flowers wilt. Reason: insufficient watering;
• The leaves are turning yellow. Causes: defeat by thrips or aphids, waterlogging of the soil;
• Bulbs shrink. Reasons: a large number of children, lack of lighting, abundant flowering;
• The plant does not bloom. Reasons: improper care, too short dormancy period or lack of it, deep planting of the bulb, damage to the root system. The bulb does not have enough strength to release a peduncle with a lack of heat, light, fertile soil, drainage and sufficient watering. During the dormant period, the bulb accumulates strength for flowering.

reproduction

Amaryllis can be propagated by babies separated from the mother bulb and seeds. Before you transplant amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.

Branch of daughter bulbs

This is the easiest and most common way. Overgrown children are separated from the mother plant during the spring transplant.

First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.

At the same time, the composition of the soil, the height of the planting of the bulb, the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow quickly and bloom for 2-3 years.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, laborious and unreliable way. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another with a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.

Shoots should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one at a time in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seeds bloom only for 7 years.

Transfer

Amaryllis is a perennial, so there is no need to repot it every year. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb must not be covered above the previous soil level.

Usually amaryllis is transplanted every 2-4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother's bulb for reproduction.

The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering has ended.

This is due to the fact that the bulb during flowering greatly decreases in size due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.

When transplanting, the pot is selected with a diameter equal to the bulb plus 1.5–2.0 cm from all sides- in cramped containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.

Dried and withered outer scales are removed from the faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and children with roots are separated.

If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be transplanted. Roots will grow in 4-6 weeks. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground by half or 2/3 of its height.

Description of the plant and species

Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.

The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.

More recently, the Amaryllis Belladonna species was considered the only one of its kind. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicola.

amaryllis belladonna- a very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Due to its compact size and flowers of amazing beauty, this species is common in the collections of lovers of flowering plants almost everywhere. Wild flowers are pink, red and even purple.

This species gave rise to many varieties that differ in unusual color, size of flowers and shape of petals. There are large-flowered, variegated varieties and varieties with narrow petals. Here are some popular varieties of amaryllis:

• "Exotica" - large-flowered variety;
• "Minerva" - a variety with variegated striped petals;
• "Exotic Star" - narrow-petal variety.

Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in a large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and a pleasant aroma. In indoor floriculture is not common.

Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.

When and whether to cut the leaves and roots of the bulb? What are the storage conditions and when will it be ready to bloom again? Who is in the know?

After flowering, remove only flower stalks. Be sure to leave the leaves, feed a couple of times, because the bulb has spent a lot of energy on flowering. Then start reducing watering so that the leaves die off. But not everyone has a period of rest. My amaryllis, bought last winter, flourished magnificently last year, giving out three arrows, tried all summer to put it to sleep, did not want to. He gave birth to three children and now again stands in two arrows with flowers.

Tell me what to do with amaryllis in the fall.

Pay attention to the bulb, if it becomes exhausted after flowering, becomes loose, try to make it rest anyway. And yet, do not plant the bulb in a large pot, in which case it will definitely not bloom. Good luck.

You don't need to cut the roots. And the leaves should ideally dry out on their own. While they are green, nutrients enter the bulb from them. Stop watering and put in a cool place. No need to dig out of the pot

Rest period: The stem is cut only when it is completely dry. Gradually reduce watering, then stop watering altogether. A pot with an onion is placed in a dark, cool place indoors. The dormant period should last 6-8 weeks between February. Then the bulb can be removed from the pot, the "children" are separated and the mother plant is transplanted.

after it has faded, it is necessary first of all to build up a good bot, like min 4 pairs of leaves, before sending it to rest, otherwise you won’t see a trace of flowering, the roots do not cut off healthy, but rather take care of when transplanting

You probably don't have amaryllis. Most likely, this is a hippeastrum hybrid. After flowering, it has a growth period. It is necessary to transplant the plant into a larger pot, water and feed regularly. For the summer it is better to land in open ground. The rest period begins in September-October.

If you forcibly send the bulb to rest, then you can forget about flowering for several years.

water less often leaves will begin to die back by spring increase watering and feed

you don’t need to cut the leaves ... now the bulb needs top dressing - the forces for flowering have been spent ... let the leaves grow, and put them to bed in the fall ...

Hi all! Amaryllis flower care at home with photos and videos in this material. Amaryllis - with which every experienced grower is familiar. Popularity is due to beautiful flowers. In addition, the plant is unpretentious, despite its origin.

What you will learn from this article:

Amaryllis home care with photos and videos

There is nothing complicated in caring for amaryllis at home. Even beginners can handle it. Therefore, if you want to regularly admire a flowering plant without spending a lot of time and effort on care, amaryllis is the most suitable option.

History and description of the flower

Amaryllis is one of the genera in the Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). For a long time it was believed that the genus has only one representative - Amaryllis belladonna (Amaryllis belladonna). But at present, botanists distinguish several more representatives, such as Amaryllis paradisicola and Amaryllis sarniensis and.

The homeland of Amaryllis belladonna is the African south, more precisely the valley of the Olifants River in the Cape Province of South Africa. The geography of distribution of new species is very extensive - South Africa, Australia, Japan and even the island of Jersey in the English Channel.

The genus was first identified by the Swedish systematizer Carl Linnaeus in 1753. He gave the flower its name. Up to this point, it was believed that amaryllis is a type of lily. It was known as Lilionarcissus. But Linnaeus made the mistake of referring to the amaryllis and all kinds of hippeastrum varieties. The confusion continues to this day.

The flower owes its name to the work of Virgil. In his poems there is a beautiful shepherdess named Amaryllis or Amaryllis. Translated from Greek, this name means "sparkling."

Amaryllis is often called the March or Jersey lily.

Amaryllis is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are dark green, smooth, long and narrow, somewhat reminiscent of a belt. Placed in two rows.

Before flowering, the plant throws out a special peduncle - a hollow "tube" 40–60 cm high (maximum 2–3 pieces). Only then do the leaves appear. In nature, this occurs in late summer or early autumn. Flowers, depending on the variety, there are from 2 to 12 pieces on each peduncle. The whole inflorescence looks like an umbrella.

Wild-growing amaryllis is characterized by all shades of pink and reddish, as well as white. By selection, purple, orange, yellow, greenish flowers and combined variants are bred. By appearance an amaryllis flower is a cross between a lily and a gramophone bell with a diameter of 10–12 cm.

The amaryllis bulb is poisonous - it contains the alkaloid lycorine. On sensitive skin, irritation can occur even from a simple touch to the bulb. Therefore, before planting and transplanting, do not forget to wear rubber gloves, and wash your hands thoroughly at the end of the procedure. Also, take care to keep the flower out of the reach of children and pets.

Amaryllis varieties

Modern varieties of amaryllis, which can be freely purchased in stores, are the result of selection. The bulb of Amaryllis belladonna is a real rarity, the dream of all experienced flower growers.

The efforts of breeders are aimed at the following:

• Bring out as large as possible double and non-double flowers. The most beautiful double hybrids include Celica, Snow Queen, Pink Nymph, Macarena, Promise, Merry Christmas. Non-double varieties are no less spectacular - Black Pearl, Benfica, Exotic, Moonlight, Lemon-Lime, Matterhorn, Rosalie.
• Find new shades and their combinations. Charisma, Clown, Prelude, Neon, Estella, Santa Cruz and many others look amazing.
• Creation of flowers of new forms. The latest trend is amaryllis with very narrow petals, the edges of which are slightly corrugated. These varieties include Lima, Night Star, La Paz, Evergreen, Santana.

But the classic varieties of amaryllis are no less popular than fashionable novelties. We can distinguish Durban (carmine flowers with a white center), Parker (purple pink with a yellow center), Pink magnificent (pink and white petals), Hathor (snow white with a yellowish center), Maxima (hot pink, with a great aroma).

Classic varieties of amaryllis in the photo

Durban is an extremely common variety

Maxima has an amazing aroma

Parker has an unusually beautiful pink color.

Almost snow-white flowers of Hathor will fit into any interior

Amaryllis and hippeastrum - eternal confusion

Hippeastrum, like Amaryllis, belongs to the Amaryllis family. But the hippeastrum genus is much more numerous - only in nature there are about 90 species. And if you add breeding varieties, you get about two thousand. Often, even sellers of specialized stores are confused in these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum - table

Amaryllis
Hippeastrum
flowering period
End of August and beginning of September.
End of February and beginning of March.
motherland
Africa.
South America.
Aroma
Strongly expressed.
Practically absent.
flower diameter
10–12 cm.
6–8 cm.
Number of colors
Up to 12 pieces. In most cases 4-6.
Maximum 6 flowers. Most often 2-4.
Coloring of natural varieties
Shades of pink - from almost white to almost red.
Red, orange, pink, white, yellow, greenish, purple and various combinations thereof.
Leaves in bloom
None. Appear after the peduncle.
They stay in place.
Peduncle
Quite dense and without voids. Slightly purple tint.
Hollow tube. It cracks easily when pressed. The green color is mixed with a grayish-brown tint.
Peduncle length
40–60 cm.
60–70 cm.
bulb shape
Pear-shaped.
Round or slightly elongated at the bottom, slightly flattened on the sides.
Scales
Ash-gray, with a slight "fringe" along the upper edge.
Very reminiscent of an ordinary onion, only white or greenish in color.

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

Suitable conditions for growing amaryllis at home differ markedly depending on whether the plant is in an active growth phase or a dormant period has begun.

It should be noted right away that amaryllis will not tolerate even a temperature close to zero, and even more so - minus. Conditions that mimic the tropics and subtropics do not suit him either - constant humid heat.

Suitable conditions for a plant depending on the phase of development - table

Conditions
growth phase
rest period
Pot location
Window facing southwest or southeast. A south window will also work, but you will have to cover the plant from direct sunlight during the day so that the leaves do not turn pale and fade.
Dark and cool place with constant temperature and good ventilation.
Lighting
Ideally, bright but diffused light is needed for 14-16 hours a day. The leaves, and especially the arrow-peduncle, tend to reach for the sun, so they will periodically have to be returned to a vertical position by turning the pot. Or you can make props for the plant.
Not required.
Humidity
The plant is moisture-loving. For watering, use settled for 6-8 hours at room temperature. The earth should not dry out, but you should not overfill the flower either. He needs more water only during the flowering period. Stagnation of moisture leads to the fact that the leaves wither and lose color, the roots rot. Spraying the leaves on the flower has almost no effect. But before flowering, you can slightly moisten the buds. Maintain air humidity at 60-80%.
Watering is completely excluded. Only soil spraying is carried out. Watering begins again only when the new peduncle grows to 10–12 cm. The optimum humidity at the storage location is 60–70%, without sudden changes.
Ventilation
The room should be well ventilated, but avoid strong drafts.
Temperature
Approximately 22-24ºС during the day and about 18ºС at night. The plant does not like sudden changes in temperature.
Constant temperature 10–12ºС.

Planting a flower at home

Pot selection

Amaryllis needs a small but stable pot

Planting amaryllis begins with the choice of a pot - it must be massive and stable enough. The flower is rather unstable due to the widely spread rosette of leaves and high peduncle. It is easy to overturn it with one careless movement, and sometimes a sharp gust of wind is enough.

The diameter of the pot depends on the size of the bulb. It should occupy almost the entire interior space. No more than 3–5 cm remains between the walls and the bulb. However, the deeper the pot, the better, because amaryllis has a rather well-developed root system. The best option- wide at the bottom and tapering upwards pot.

As for the material the pot is made of, the best choice is unglazed ceramic. This capacity provides ventilation and oxygen supply to the roots.

Soil selection

If you are planting several amaryllis in one large container, the distance between the bulbs is at least 10 cm.

The next important issue is soil. You can buy any soil intended for bulbs in a specialized store, but experienced flower growers prefer to prepare the mixture on their own. Any soil is pre-sterilized by pouring boiling water over it or placing it in a freezer.

A self-made one might look like this:

A drainage layer of at least 2-3 cm thick is required. Use expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, brick chips or small ceramic shards. Scatter them, in a slightly smaller amount, over the surface of the soil after planting. It is good if a large drainage hole is made in the bottom.

Cover the drainage layer with the same layer of sand. This is an additional protection against stagnant water and subsequent rotting of the roots.

Step by step process

Select only healthy specimens for planting

For planting, strong, smooth bulbs with developed roots are selected. There should be no dents, cracks, scratches, stains, signs of mold and rot. Also, do not plant bulbs that spread an unpleasant sweetish smell.

Landing master class - video

Plant transplant

Plants are transplanted at the end of the flowering period, when the peduncle is completely dry. No need for an annual transplant - ohis carried out at intervals of 3-4 years. Or earlier, if you see that the pot of the bulb has become clearly small.

However, it is advisable to remove a layer of soil 3-4 cm thick every year and add fresh soil to the previous level.

• 4-5 days before the planned transplant, daily abundant watering is carried out.
• Then the plant is removed from the pot along with a clod of earth, gently shaken off and the roots are examined. All rotten and dried are cut with a sharp knife, the cut is sprinkled with ash or crushed activated charcoal.
• The bulb is cleaned of rotten scales, the daughter bulbs are carefully separated and also cleaned. They then need to be seated in separate pots. Very small daughter bulbs (several mm in diameter) can be left if you want to breed this particular variety. But it is likely that the amaryllis will not bloom - all the nutrition will go to the embryos.

Before planting an old bulb in a new pot, feed the plant by sticking 2-3 sticks of long-acting mineral fertilizer (the most common option is Agricola) into the soil under the roots.

plant care

Watering and feeding

Water amaryllis in the growth phase should be moderate. Watering begins when the peduncle grows to 10 cm tall. The plant loves moisture, but categorically does not tolerate stagnant water. It is better to forget about watering than to overdo it. The best option is abundant watering every 3-4 days. Another important point- Water should not fall directly on the bulb. Water only the surrounding soil.

During wintering, the plant needs much less water. Spray the soil every 7-10 days.

Top dressing of amaryllis is carried out every 12–14 days, starting from the moment the buds form. During flowering, the interval between dressings is reduced to 5-7 days. Any fertilizer for flowering indoor plants is suitable - Emerald, BIO VITA, Bona Forte, Kemira Lux, Ideal, Agricola, Ava, Living World, Rainbow, Reasil, Florist, Bud, Master Color, Power of Life. Give preference to those products where there is more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen.

You can also use natural organic fertilizers - a solution of fresh manure (1.5 cups per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings (1/3 cup per 10 liters).

Stop feeding when the leaves are completely withered. At rest, the plant is not fed.

Amaryllis care - video

flowering period

In nature, amaryllis blooms in late summer or early autumn. But you can make the flowers appear by a certain moment, for this you need to change the time for planting the bulbs. If they are healthy and well developed, intensive growth begins immediately after disembarkation. After 7-8 weeks, flower stalks will form. If there are more than two, it is better to cut off the excess at the base. Abundant flowering will deplete the bulb too much.

After the first flower blooms, the peduncle can be safely placed in a vase. If you change the water in it daily, the flowers will last 16-20 days. The uncut peduncle blooms about the same amount, but in the first case, the bulb is depleted much less. The flowering period will be maximum if both the vase and the pot are removed in a cool place, protected from sunlight.

How to make amaryllis bloom

Only proper care of the plant will allow you to enjoy its beautiful flowers.

Why isn't amaryllis blooming? Most often for one of the following reasons:

• Too big pot. The bulb spends all its energy on the formation of "children". Therefore, she rightly believes that there is no need to propagate also by seeds.
• Too much deepening of the bulb in the ground. This prevents the normal development of the peduncle.
• Nutrient deficiencies. The bulb during flowering is greatly depleted. If you have not accumulated enough essential micronutrients during the previous growth phase, do not wait for flowers.
• Lack of lighting and heat. Amaryllis is extremely warm and photophilous. This is logical, given where his homeland is. Fluorescent lamps can partially overcome the problem.
• Many roots are rotten or dry. In this case, the root system is not able to provide the bulb with proper nutrition, even if the necessary substances are present in the soil.
• Missed rest period. After the flowers and peduncle dried up, the plant was not allowed to rest.
• Bulbs too young. Do not expect that only transplanted babies will immediately begin to bloom. This will happen in 3-4 years. And if you planted seeds, flowers will appear in 7-8 years.
• Damage to the bulb by pests.

Having determined which negative factor interferes with your plant, eliminate it.

Rest period - how to "wake up" the plant after wintering

The dormant period begins only after the last leaf turns yellow, and lasts at least 8–10 weeks. It is better to let the plants rest for about three months.

• When the flowers begin to wither, watering and fertilizing are reduced. By the time the peduncle dries completely (in late October or early November), they are reduced to zero.
• Dried leaves are removed. But you should not forcibly cut off the entire “crown” - the nutrients from the leaves will pass into the bulb.
• Then the pot is placed in a cool dry dark place. Since the roots are preserved, once every 1.5 weeks the soil is sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

A less common option is for the bulbs to be dug up, cleaned and stored in cardboard boxes or wooden boxes. In this case, there is a risk of drying out the roots.

Using little trick, you can make amaryllis bloom twice a year - on time, and also in late winter or early spring. But it is important to maintain a dormant period so that the bulb has accumulated enough strength for future flowering. Let her rest at least until the beginning of January.

Approximately 2.5 months before the desired date, remove the pots with bulbs that are in the dormant period, rearrange them in a bright and warm room and water a little. Keep the soil slightly moist. This is enough to start the phase of active growth.

Diseases and pests

With proper care and a sufficiently long dormant period, amaryllis rarely suffers from diseases and pests. But if this does happen, you need to be able to recognize the symptoms in time and deal with the problem.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis - table

Disease or pest
Symptoms
Treatment
Red burn (stagonosporosis)
Small red spots on the bulb or a border of the same color along the upper edge of the scales.
Hold the bulb for 1.5–2 hours in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Lubricate the largest spots with brilliant green. After 5-7 days, you can plant again.
Rot and mold
Red-gray spots on the surface of the bulb. It becomes soft to the touch, spreads an unpleasant sweet smell. Reddish-brown spots and stripes appear on the leaves.
Cut off affected leaves at the base. Treat the bulb from a spray bottle with a 0.05% solution of Bordeaux liquid (5 ml per liter of water) or XOM and Fundazol preparations, diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions.
spider mite
The leaves seem to be covered with cobwebs. Then they wither and dry.
Spray with acaricides such as Floromite, Neoron, Nisoran.
onion mite
Eats bulb tissue. The plant develops poorly, practically does not bloom. If flowers appear, then deformed. Leaves turn yellow and die quickly.
Remove the bulbs from the pot and lower them for 5-7 minutes in water heated to a temperature of 35-40ºС. Then carry out the treatment with Keltan and Rogor preparations. A radical option is to place the onion in a hermetically sealed container and set fire to a tiny piece of sulfuric checker in it. Wait 2 hours, open the container. Leave the bulb in the fresh air for a day.
thrips
Tiny brown dots on the leaves in large numbers.
Collect all visible pests, wash the plant, transplant into a disinfected pot with sterilized soil. Carry out treatment with Agravertin,.
Mealybug
Deposits on the leaves and at the roots, resembling small spools of cotton wool, as well as a continuous layer of down, glued with whitish mucus, under the leaves.
Wipe the leaves with a sponge dampened with clean water. If it does not help, apply insecticides (Admiral, Iskra, Fitoverm).
amaryllis mealybug
His feces appear under the scales, damaging the bulb. They look like soot.
Apply the above insecticides.
Shchitovka
Dense scales on inside leaves. The color varies from light beige to chocolate brown. Next to them - sticky discharge, similar to sugar syrup.
Wipe the leaves with foam obtained from laundry soap shavings whipped in warm water.
Aphid
The leaves turn yellow.
Collect visible pests by hand. Wipe the leaves with green potash soap foam or 20% ethyl alcohol.
Springtail
Small translucent worms are visible on the surface of the soil.
Reduce watering. Remove a layer of soil 3–4 cm thick and replace with a new one.

The most common pests and symptoms of diseases - photo gallery

This is how rot appears on the leaves

Bulbs affected by stagnosporosis

The onion mite is extremely difficult to detect until the bulb has suffered significant damage.

The mealybug is one of the most common pests.

The springtail is quite easy to see, but difficult to get rid of.

Spider mite entwines leaves

Reproduction of amaryllis

There are three possible ways to propagate amaryllis - by seeds, by dividing the bulb, and by children (daughter bulbs).

Seed use

The results will take a long time to come. The plants obtained in this way do not retain varietal characteristics and bloom 7–8 years after planting, but such bulbs age more slowly. With proper care, they will grow with you for more than 20 years.

• To obtain seeds, the pistil is pollinated with pollen from the stamens of another amaryllis using a soft bristled brush. A "box" is formed on the peduncle. When it cracks, the seeds are fully ripe. The whole process usually takes about a month.
• Seeds are planted almost immediately. With each lost day, germination decreases. The soil in the pot should be well moistened.
• Then the seed container is cleaned in a warm place, covering it from direct sunlight.
• Shoots will appear in about 25-30 days. After another 2-3 months, they are seated in separate pots.

Video: planting amaryllis seeds

dividing the bulb

The method is extremely risky - the probability of destroying the plant is very high.

• A healthy onion is cut into 4-8 parts with a sharp knife. The main thing is that on each of them a part of the bottom and 1-2 scales are preserved. Slices are sprinkled with ash or crushed activated carbon.
• Then the pieces are planted in the sand and kept warm for a month at a temperature of 25–27 ºС.
• After this time, the first sheet should appear. When another one grows, the plants are planted in the soil for bulbs, mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1.

Reproduction by daughter bulbs

The easiest and safest way. And you won’t have to wait long for flowers - amaryllis will get stronger enough in 2-3 years. The process of planting daughter bulbs is practically the same as planting a new bulb purchased in a store. The only difference is that the pot should be a little bigger. Daughter bulbs grow rapidly and reach the size of the mother in just 2 years.

• Bulbs should be carefully separated from the mother plant, placed in a prepared pot with drained soil, bottom down, slightly pressed into the ground and topped up with soil so that the bulb sticks out halfway above the surface.
• Next, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. New plants definitely need light and warmth.
• But they do not need a dormant period. Therefore, watering and fertilizing are carried out regularly. For the first time, amaryllis will rest only after flowering.

Amaryllis is an exotic that you can very well have at home. Subject to simple care rules, he will constantly delight you with beautiful flowers.

Good evening, dear gardeners and lovers of indoor plants. Two weeks ago I was at the market, accidentally met my grandfather, he was selling some incomprehensible bulbs with leaves and earth in a bag. She asked what kind of plant), he replied that he did not know, but it was very beautiful. Said he dug it out of his garden. Well, I bought two onions for one buck. I planted it in my garden, outdoors. In less than two weeks, the flowers bloomed. It turned out to be amaryllis. And here's the bad luck ... I always thought that this was a houseplant, my grandmother had one in a pot all her life, but very, very rarely bloomed. I started searching the internet for information. Maybe some of you will find it useful too?

I add later: in the comments they wrote that this is not amaryllis, but hipperastrum (I don’t even know))) rejoice or how)))

This flower has been familiar to me since childhood. Out of habit, we call him amaryllis, although this is the most common non-varietal hipperastrum. We do not part with him, this is our family heirloom. I am sure that it can be found in many other collections.

Amaryllis is a bulbous plant that blooms very beautifully. Its fragrant and large flowers can be different: white, red, pink, have a striped or plain color. On a high peduncle, inflorescences are located singly or in several pieces. The flowers are very beautiful, but small and do not smell at all. All he needs is a bright placement, he grows well on the windows of the east, south, west orientation. It is important for him to receive sufficient sunlight, in such conditions this hyperstrum blooms actively and does not get sick with a red burn of the bulb. Watering is moderate, between waterings the top layer of the earthy coma is allowed to dry.

Transplantation is carried out in the spring, in a mixture for amaryllis. This variety is well planted in groups of several pieces per pot, then flowering will be very long. For planting, you should not choose too spacious dishes - then the plant gives a lot of babies and blooms poorly.

Question: Is it possible to grow amaryllis in a garden plot in the open field?

Answer: In summer, amaryllis can be kept in the garden for outdoors in a flowerpot, tub. You can land on the site, taking it out of the pot, or you can dig right in the pot. True, in the fall it will be necessary to change the soil, since over the summer all living creatures that are undesirable for a potted plant when kept in winter will run into the pot, because in the absence of other food, it will begin to eat the roots and the bulb itself. Yes, and injuring the roots with a transplant once again is not worth it, otherwise the flowering will be postponed indefinitely. Wintering in the open field, even with shelter, amaryllis cannot.

Question: Why do the leaves dry up? And to replace them, new ones grow right there ...

(For the short period of its existence, this is the second time this has happened to me.)

Answer: So this is a normal plant development cycle, whether it is a house plant or growing outside! After all, you are not surprised at the annual autumn leaf fall, so why is there such a reaction to the change of leaves in indoor plants? The leaves of plants are not eternal, new ones grow to replace the old ones.

If the conditions are not suitable for a houseplant, this process may take place faster and more often than necessary, and may become irreversible. Then the plant dies. Don't bring it up :-)

Question: The bulb has no roots. How to root it?

Answer: take ordinary land from the site or buy Universal soil, freeze for 6-8 hours, warm the earth to room temperature (+ 20-25 ° C), add Kornevin to stimulate root growth. Sprinkle coarse-grained calcined sand with a layer of 3-5 cm at the bottom of the hole. Powder the bottom of the bulb with Kornevin, plant it.

The height of the pot should be greater than its diameter, and the distance from the edge of the pot to the bulb should be 2-3 cm. Be sure to put drainage on the bottom of the pot, the pot must have a drainage hole. Do not bury the bulb; it should protrude a third of the soil surface. Water moderately, do not overmoisten the soil, otherwise the bulb will rot instead of rooting.

Question: How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Answer: Amaryllis from hippeastrum can be easily distinguished by the structure of the peduncle - in hippeastrum it is hollow (empty inside) and bears 1-6 large flowers, while in amaryllis the peduncle is made (filled from the inside) and bears 8-12 large, drooping flowers . This is the surest distinguishing feature.

Leaves are formed after the exit of the flower arrow or at the same time, but not before.
Another one distinguishing feature- hippeastrum, unlike amaryllis, forms daughter bulbs irregularly.

Question: My bulb has lost a lot of weight after flowering. How can you help her regain her volume?

Answer: The amaryllis bulb will be able to "gain weight" only in the next growing season, if you do not let it bloom, remove the flower arrow. And in the fall, do not cut off the green leaves, but wait until they turn yellow and give back the food spent on them to the bulb. Don't forget to feed during the season.

In the garden, amaryllis is best suited for a well-lit place, such as an unshaded south side, as these plants are light-loving and thermophilic. The soil must be light mechanical composition, that is, sandy or sandy loam, rich in humus with a high content of humus is also well suited. Amaryllis prefers open, well-lit places, direct sunlight. Amaryllis is afraid of frost, so for the winter the bulbs need to be dug up and stored indoors, planted again with the onset of steady heat. Amaryllis feels great in a well-lit place, loves a lot of light and really dislikes coolness with drafts. Amaryllis can also grow in light partial shade, but then the growth of the plant slows down.

Reproduction: amaryllis is propagated by regrown daughter bulbs - babies, which can be separated from the mother during a spring transplant. Already in the 2-3rd year, flowers appear from the daughter bulbs. If you want to have a lot of flowering arrows in one flower pot, the way out is simple - do not separate the children from the mother.

Top dressing:

• spring-summer - 1 time in 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers;
• winter-autumn - without top dressing.

Pruning: not needed.

Features of care: The plant is poisonous!

Transplantation: Amaryllis is usually planted in small flower pots in November-December. But with the same success, you can land in March-February. At the bottom of the pot, organize drainage from broken shards and only after that pour in the earth mixture consisting of sod, leaf, peat soil and sand (1:2:1:1). Before planting, it is very useful to soak the bulb in Humisol's solution, and then plant it in a pot, burying it halfway into the ground. The pot is best placed on the windowsill of a southeast or southwest window, since amaryllis is a light-loving plant. And do not forget to water the planted bulb.

Small bulbs are planted together. Feed once every two weeks. After the leaves have dried, watering is almost stopped. Withered leaves are not pruned. Amaryllis is transplanted every 4-5 years.

There is nothing easier than growing amaryllis: all you need is a bulb, water and sunlight.

Bulbs practically do not have a dormant period. After the plant has faded, there is no need to do anything with the vegetative part and the bulbs. Simply remove the flower stalks without affecting the leaves, as they will replenish the nutrient reserves in the bulb. After flowering, the bulb should be grown within 5-6 months.

As a houseplant, amaryllis is grown until early summer, while regular watering should not be forgotten, and standard fertilizers should be used as top dressing. When the danger of frost has passed, the plant can be transplanted outside to a dark place.

To get amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs must go through a dormant period.
In August, you can stop feeding and gradually reduce the amount of water given. Stop watering completely after three weeks. Let the leaves turn yellow and wither on their own. Cut the leaves at a height of 5 centimeters from the bulb.

In September or early October, plant the bulbs in a pot and place in a cool (13-15°C), dark and dry place for 6-8 weeks. As long as at least one green leaf remains on the plant, it does not have a dormant period. It is enough to put a pot of bulbs in the basement and forget about it for 2 months.

In November or later, place the pot of amaryllis in a sunny area, water it, and the vegetative cycle will begin over again.

The soil should be damp, but by no means wet. Once flowering begins, do not let the soil dry out too much. Remember to turn the pot daily to keep the leaves growing evenly. The ideal temperature is 13-18°C. Higher temperatures weaken growth. Be careful: flowering should begin 4-8 weeks after the resumption of watering the bulbs.

Possible reasons for the lack of flowering: Immature or small bulbs, too short dormancy period, very high temperatures during the growing season. It should be noted that the longer you have a bulb and the larger its size, the more flowers and leaves it produces, so it makes sense to store and use them from year to year.

reproduction

All bulbs: hippeastrum, amaryllis, lilies, tulips and others, reproduce by daughter bulbs, which are separated from the mother plant during transplantation. This is the easiest way to propagate these plants. Planting daughter bulbs is no different from planting a mother plant during transplantation: the same composition of the earth and the height of planting the bulb. The pot must be taken at the rate of an adult bulb. Young plants grow quickly and reach the size of the mother bulb in two years, and amaryllis often do not need to be repotted.

The second way to propagate amaryllis is by seeds. To obtain seeds, amaryllis flowers must be cross-pollinated with a brush and allowed to mature. The seed ripening process lasts about a month, after which they are immediately planted in the ground and watered well so that the ground is moist. Seedlings will appear in about a month. When the plants grow up, they are planted one by one in small pots.

When propagated by daughter bulbs, a flowering plant can be obtained in the third year, when grown from seeds, amarylis blooms in the 7th year.

Transfer

Transplantation is carried out after the end of flowering and the drying of the flower arrow. Land for planting is made up of equal parts of leafy, soddy, humus soil and sand, or bought at a store for bulbous plants. The bulb, which was taken out of the old pot, is freed from rotten roots and dry scales, from children that form in the axils of the outer scales of the mother plant. The bulb prepared in this way is planted one at a time in a pot so that it is at least 1/3 of the height of the bulb on the surface. Can be left on the surface up to half the height of the bulb. There must be a layer of drainage in the pot, and it is advisable to pour a layer of sand under the bottom of the bulb. Amaryllis does not tolerate stagnant water. It is much safer to forget to water this flower than to flood it. The pot should not be too big. From the edge of the bulb to the edge of the pot, it is enough to have about 3 cm of free space.

Pests and diseases

Sometimes amaryllis can be affected by a fungal infection: red spots or stripes appear on the stem, flowers and bulbs. To prevent this disease, it is recommended to wet the plant as little as possible when watering. If the amaryllis is still sick, you can use special preparations: Bordeaux mixture, HOM or foundationol.

So where is the best place to plant amaryllis?

The first option is open ground. Choose the best place for amaryllis somewhere in a sunny place, among the stones. Amaryllis looks very beautiful against the background of undersized conifers.
The "minus" of such a landing is a strong dependence on weather conditions. In the case of late spring and early autumn frosts, the heat-loving amaryllis will have to be carefully covered. Yes, and it will be necessary to dig out its bulbs in the fall no later than the end of September (after all, in October the top layer of soil in the middle lane is already starting to freeze slightly). And if your amaryllis just bloomed in September, then the bulb simply will not have time to ripen normally before digging.
The “plus” of planting amaryllis in the open field is an amazing sight, when, against the background of falling leaves and autumn flowers, such a miracle suddenly appears from under the ground!

Option two is to plant the amaryllis in a pot or any other container. You can install it on the balcony or directly on the flower bed.
By the way, wherever you plant amaryllis, remember that you need to plant its bulb quite small. The top of the amaryllis bulb should be barely visible above the soil surface (if you are growing amaryllis in a pot), or should be sprinkled with a very thin layer of soil (if you are planting amaryllis in open ground).
For the winter, amaryllis bulbs are best removed to the bottom shelf of the refrigerator (along with gladioli); they are stored well and by the spring almost do not dry out.

In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, amaryllis leaves naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a dormant period, amaryllis and hippeastrums begin to grow leaves again, and the peduncle and buds are laid.

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Preparing amaryllis for a dormant period

The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. In hippeastrums, a dormant period occurs after the plant has faded, because hippeastrums can be driven out at any time of the year, and not just at the end of summer or early autumn. Early forcing in the fall or late is possible - then the hippeastrum blooms at the end of winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.

But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a dormant period. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The remaining varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum for the summer in the ground, then you need to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

Leaves are a source of nutrients

However, the bulb after the flowering of amaryllis is not dug immediately, you must first allow the leaves to do an important job - to supply the bulb with nutrients.

In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and allow it to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, while giving all the strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. When the leaves turn completely yellow and die off, the plant will go dormant on its own.

Wintering of amaryllis and hippeastrums

The main dormant period for amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted in open ground for the summer, then after flowering, amaryllis must be dug up and transplanted into a pot even before frost.

Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to transplant these flowers every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily endure frost, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.

But if you decide to take the hippeastrum into the house for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature in the range of 10-18 ° C.

Temperature conditions for amaryllis (hippeastrum)

At rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is around 15°C, but a temperature of 10°C is also considered acceptable, and the upper figure is 18°C. If it is cooler, the bulb may get sick, and if it drops below 5 ° C, it may die.

Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5 ° C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. Higher temperatures than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.

This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, namely, complete rest guarantees the laying of a healthy flower arrow.

During dormancy, watering the bulb is only necessary so that it does not dry out - once a month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into the pan so that in conditions of cool air and excess water, the bulb does not rot.

You will know that the recovery period is over when the flower arrow appears at the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and top dressing should be started only after this arrow stretches to 10 cm. From this moment, a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.

Do you know for sure which flower grows on your windowsill: amaryllis or hippeastrum? Will you be able to distinguish when buying bulbs of these plants?
The confusion arose due to the fact that most varieties of hippeastrum came from crossing it with amaryllis, and besides, both of these plants belong to the Amaryllis family, therefore both hippeastrum and amaryllis proper are commonly called amaryllis.
However, despite the strong similarities, these are still two different plants. From the article on our website you will learn:

• what are the differences between hippeastrum and amaryllis bulbs;
• how to care for the planting material of both plants;
• how to store bulbs and prepare them for planting.

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Modern flower growers will not be afraid of difficulties, because lovers of garden bulbous flowers undertake to grow not only traditional tulips, lilies or daffodils. They are not afraid to breed truly exotic flowers such as amaryllis or hippeastrums, which attract with luxurious, incredibly bright colors of large flowers of amazing shape. However, you need to immediately clarify: almost all the beautiful flowers that we grow or buy under the name amaryllis are actually hippeastrums or hybrids of hippeastrum and amaryllis.

These flowers, unlike most bulbs, bloom in August-September, but flower growers are attracted by the possibility of forcing and flowering these flowers at other times of the year.

amaryllis belladonna

The only representative of the genus Amaryllis is amaryllis belladonna (Amaryllis belladonna), an unusual flower originally from South Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope, so its cultivation in open ground is possible only in areas with a mild climate. If amaryllis develops according to its natural pattern, then it should bloom in the fall, and for this you need to plant the bulbs in the ground in June. How to plant amaryllis.

For amaryllis planted in open ground, light, constant heat and the required level of humidity are very important conditions, so a site on the south side of buildings is suitable for them.

The amaryllis bulb has a pear-shaped or fusiform shape, it is quite large in size. The largest bulbs can even produce two flower arrows. Each of them blooms from 6 to 12 flowers. In amaryllis, they are usually red, pink or white.

The average diameter of an amaryllis bulb is about 6cm. However, there are breeding specimens, the size of which reaches 20 cm.

The amaryllis bulb is covered with dry gray scales. In the sinuses of the outer scales, from 1 to 4 children are formed annually. They are the planting material for the propagation of amaryllis: during the transplantation of an adult plant, the children are separated along with the roots, then they are planted in a flowerpot for growing. Such a baby bulb, as a rule, blooms for 3-4 years of growth.

Hippeastrum bulbs (amaryllis)

If amaryllis is represented by only one species, then its relative hippeastrum, on the contrary, is represented very widely. All hybrid forms of both amaryllis and hippeastrums are usually referred to as hippeastrums.

Hippeastrum native to the subtropics and tropics of America, therefore, unlike amaryllis, it is more suitable for outdoor cultivation.

This flower has a wide variety of colors, and the flowers themselves are much larger and brighter than amaryllis flowers. There are varieties of the original two-tone color.

Hippeastrum bulbs are different from amaryllis bulbs: they are rounder and slightly flattened. But it will be difficult for a non-professional to distinguish between them, so if it is important for you to buy either amaryllis or hippeastrum, contact specialized stores where sellers will help you, or special Internet sites.

Pay attention to the manufacturer's packaging: it should indicate which flower will grow from the bulb.

Do not worry if you got a bulb that is not too large, because in some varieties of hippeastrums, the bulbs are basically small, so bulbs from 5 cm to 11 cm in diameter are considered normal.

Storing Amaryllis Bulbs (Hippeastrum)

Both Amaryllis and Hypeastrum bulbs keep quite a long time if you put them in a cool, dry, dark place.

After flowering, pots with plants are kept in a warm, bright room.

At this time, the bulb accumulates nutrients, so it will not be superfluous after the flowering of amaryllis to feed the plant and water until the foliage dries up, through which the bulb has received the substances necessary for laying a full-fledged flower bud.

For a dormant period the bulb can be left in a pot without replanting for 3-4 years in a row, but in order for the plant to fully rest, it must be transferred to a cool room.