Autumn pruning of geraniums is a guarantee of lush flowering. Pruning geraniums for lush flowering in spring How to prune geraniums to be lush

One of the most important techniques for caring for geraniums is crown pruning. Shaping the plant by removing excess shoots not only helps to heal the bushes, but also makes them look neater. In addition, without constant pruning of the shoots, it is impossible to achieve beautiful and lush flowering. After cutting off the elongated tops, numerous lateral buds wake up on the stems, leaves grow on them and many peduncles form. Pruning geraniums in the fall at home should be carried out according to the instructions, in compliance with all the rules, so as not to harm the plant.

Many opinions exist about when to prune geraniums - in spring or autumn, what time of year is best for this? It is difficult to answer this question unambiguously, since it all depends on many factors: the variety, the condition of the plant, its age, the purpose of pruning.

In general, flower growers and gardeners believe that bushes should be formed regularly, as needed. It occurs especially sharply when the shoots begin to stretch too much, lose foliage and, accordingly, external attractiveness. Basically, these are cosmetic pinchings of the apical parts.

The main benefits of a haircut are as follows:

extension of flowering time;
ensure a better exchange nutrients;
formation of lateral sprouts;
preparation for the wintering process.

Deeper pruning should be done once or twice a year, depending on how fast the flower grows. At the same time, a natural question arises, when is it better to prune geraniums: in autumn or spring, if cardinal regulation of its growth is planned? The most suitable time for this procedure is autumn.

How to prune geraniums for the winter

If you plan to prune a plant that has been kept on the street or balcony all summer, then it is necessary to move it indoors a few weeks before the procedure so that the geranium gets used to the new conditions. In the event that the pelargonium is subjected to a haircut immediately, it will experience stress and may get sick.

Required Tools

To carry out a haircut, you will need special tools. The use of secateurs or scissors is not recommended as they can leave uneven and torn edges.

It is better to give preference to a sharply sharpened clerical or kitchen knife, an ordinary blade. It is also necessary to treat all tools with disinfectants, which can be any antiseptic: alcohol, descosept, etc.

If there is no disinfectant solution, then the instruments must be boiled for 10-15 minutes.

Step-by-step instruction

Bush inspection. First, carefully inspect the plant and think over its desired shape.
Cut dry foliage, weakened, twisted and dry stems. This will allow you to immediately see the true shape of the geranium and make room for new branches.
An incision is made above the leaf node. Stems growing inward, cross or weakened branches are removed.
The haircut starts from the outer stems, gradually moving to the inner ones.
All sections must be treated with crushed charcoal, ash, cinnamon, alcohol solution or ordinary brilliant green.
It is recommended to trim the tips of the branches after 4-5 leaf nodes. In these places, new shoots with peduncles will form.
If it is necessary to trim more than half of the bush, the procedure is carried out in several stages, keeping about 10 days between each.

After the end of the event, the soil is fertilized with special nitrogen preparations intended for this type of plant, and they also provide the appropriate temperature and light conditions.

What to do with the plant after pruning

Processed geranium does not need special care, but requires certain conditions of detention:

all sections are disinfected to prevent infection;
after pruning, the plant is transferred to a cool place where the temperature varies from +18 to + 20 degrees during the day, and from +10 to +15 degrees at night;
provide the bush with sufficient lighting (up to 12 hours) per day, with an additional light source on short daylight hours;
Reduce watering to twice a week. Moisten the plant after the soil in the pot has completely dried;

Important! It is better not to add water to the plant than to pour it. Due to the lack of green foliage, the remaining moisture will not be able to evaporate, which can lead to rotting of the root system, and, as a result, the death of the bush.

immediately after processing, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, which should be enough until the pelargonium awakens;
provide geraniums with a normal level of humidity in the room. High humidity can lead to the development of a disease called "black leg".

autumn geranium pruning

In autumn, geraniums gradually begin to prepare for winter, so experienced geranium growers try to ensure complete rest for their wards throughout the winter.

They reduce the temperature to + 5- + 12 ° C, reduce watering, stop feeding the plant, but keep it in a well-lit room.

If the plant still tries to bloom in winter, then the inflorescences are immediately removed.

Such a little trick allows you to get in the spring beautiful flowers. The fact is that cutting geraniums in the fall means ridding them of almost half of the shoots that have grown strongly over the summer. She is granted great opportunity take a break from summer flowering and gain strength without spending them on “feeding” extra stems. In addition, this procedure will allow the plant to lay large quantity buds, from which healthy leaves and flowers will form in the spring and summer.

Regarding when to prune geraniums and in what month, the answer is quite simple - immediately after flowering. Different varieties cease to delight with flowers at different times. Therefore, at what time to cut geraniums in the fall, the flower itself can tell, ceasing to throw out inflorescences. But, as a rule, this period lasts from late August to early autumn.

In autumn, geraniums are subjected to significant pruning.

Before cutting geraniums at home, old, dried stems, inflorescences and leaves are removed.
Shoots "looking inside" are cut out so that they do not spoil the shape of the flower and do not obscure its basal part.
Then healthy branches are cut off by about a third.
The minimum number of leaves that should remain on the shoot after cutting is 2 pcs. But it is better if there are about five or seven of them.

You should not be zealous in picking off the leaves, as they supply the root system with many necessary elements. Only completely dried, wilted, yellowed or deformed foliage is removed.

The autumn period is the best time to prune geraniums for seedlings, as seedlings planted for the winter will not only have time to take root well during the snowy period, but will also branch out. With the advent of spring, young plants will immediately bloom, and the remaining cuttings after the spring, re-pruning can be used to further obtain new indoor flowers.

Geraniums are pruned in autumn, greatly elongated over the summer. Before you properly cut the stretched geranium, you need to carefully examine the plant and choose from two options: either remove too long shoots completely, or leave a small part of them at the root. The first option is suitable if the layering is sufficient for further flower formation. Then the elongated stem is cut completely near the lower node. If there are too few stems, and new shoots are needed that will begin to grow in place of the cut one, then the stretched geraniums are cut just above the very first node from the ground.

Rules for pruning geraniums for the winter

Before cutting geraniums for the winter, it must be borne in mind that it is easily exposed to putrefactive processes. To avoid infection on freshly cut parts, pruning is carried out either with clean gardening gloves or thoroughly washed hands. The tool must also be processed. Secateurs or scissors are pre-drenched in boiling water or wiped with alcohol. The cut is made at an angle of 90 °, at a distance of at least 0.5 cm from the internode.

After pruning, the shoots are treated with ground charcoal or activated charcoal.

In winter, it is desirable to provide peace to the grandiflora. In no case is it recommended to carry out pruning in the period December-January. But sometimes it grows into winter time. Faced with this problem, flower growers solve a dilemma: is it possible to prune a geranium in February if it has begun to outgrow?

In rare cases, you can cut geraniums in February, but this can hardly be called a full-fledged pruning.

Only one overgrown shoot is removed, which spoils too much appearance flower.
It is better to pinch the elongated stems, rather than cut them off completely.

Moreover, the last month of winter is the deadline when the royal indoor geranium is cut, since in April it already produces the first inflorescences. Therefore, starting from the second half of March, pinching and pruning should be stopped for a while.

You can determine exactly when to prune geraniums after winter by looking at the flower. As already noted, grandiflora blooms for a shorter period of time than ordinary varieties. As soon as it fades in summer, further formation of the bush can begin.

The main mistakes of beginner flower growers

The process of removing geranium stems is quite simple, but sometimes novice flower growers make mistakes, which can result in an unsatisfactory appearance of pelargonium or even its death. Among the most common mistakes are:

cutting out of time. Not all types of geraniums tolerate a winter haircut. In addition, the removal of stems during flowering can provoke the fall of inflorescences;
removing too many shoots. Pruning more than half of the stems at a time can lead to stress, after which the geranium does not grow or bloom for a long time;
pruning high above the leaf node. After such events, the top of the stem dries up, even dies, due to which the appearance of the flower is lost;
reusable haircut. Too frequent pruning of the stems leads to inhibition of the development of buds and buds.

Ampel geranium - pruning principles

Ampel or ivy geranium is distinguished by its unusual type of growth. It belongs to the "creeping" plants, and if planted in a hanging pot, the shoots will hang freely from the container, forming a beautiful bindweed with small leaves, shaped like ivy foliage, and beautiful inflorescences falling on the sides of the container. But to achieve a highly decorative flower, you will have to work hard, as it also needs constant pruning and pinching of its climbing stems. The principles of how to properly prune ivy geraniums largely coincide with the rules for pruning simple, zonal varieties.

For her, autumn pruning is also the most useful. It also involves cutting the third part of the plant, cutting out dried, withered and growing shoots inside. In addition, shoots sprouted from the axils of the leaf are cut off. Healthy stems that grow from the root are not cut off.

In the spring, she needs to form the correct crown if the bush has grown and extra layering has appeared.

They are cut off, leaving a few buds.
Throughout the spring season, the crown is maintained in order by pinching the stem after the fifth leaf.

Such a haircut makes the plant more accurate, makes it possible to grow new shoots and peduncles. Often the subject of discussion is the question, is it possible to prune flowering ampelous geraniums in spring and summer? The answer is simple: only those inflorescences that have already faded and have lost their visual appeal should be cut. The plant does not need any other interventions during flowering.

If you want to get a cutting from a flowering geranium, then you can do this, but only from one shoot. At the same time, one should not forget that both sections must be treated with charcoal or activated charcoal (sometimes ground cinnamon can also help out). The cutting should be cut off the inflorescence, as it will interfere with rooting. The cut shoot is planted in the ground, without preliminary germination in water.

When pruning a flowering plant, one cannot but take into account the fact that at this time it is injured, and its beauty and splendor are also lost. Therefore, it is not recommended to cut more than 1-2 shoots. It is better to wait for the moment when it completely fades, carry out a planned pruning and at the same time get a large number of petioles for further reproduction.

Royal geranium - pruning features

One flower in diameter can reach from 5 to 7 cm. But their decorative effect does not end there, as often the petals are corrugated, and the colors simply amaze with their diversity. You will not find monochromatic flowers on this type of plant. They are always decorated with some spots, rims, stripes. Outwardly, they strongly resemble petunias.

But such beauty is not without flaws. The main ones are demanding care and a short flowering period. If ordinary, zonal geraniums can bloom almost all year round, then grandiflora will please with its inflorescences only 3-4 months per season. This will only happen if it is properly taken care of.

Knowing her capricious nature, the owners of the flower are interested in how to prune the royal geranium so that in the spring the wayward beauty will fully demonstrate all the varietal qualities inherent in it. The first step is to decide when to transplant and prune large-flowered geraniums - in autumn or spring. In this case, only the autumn period is suitable for pruning. Two problems are solved at once - the bush is preparing for wintering and material is being collected for further breeding of the variety - cuttings.

Unremarkable, familiar to everyone since childhood, geranium, with proper care and timely, competent pruning, can turn into a completely exclusive, very beautiful plant. Everyone can create a long-flowering masterpiece on their windowsill, for this it is enough to cut the pelargonium at the right time and provide it with comfortable conditions for intensive growth.

Geranium is not in vain loved by many gardeners. It is easy to care for, undemanding to the soil and watering. But there is something that is obligatory in the formation of a beautiful lush pelargonium bush and its long-term flowering. It's cutting and pinching. If you do not perform these operations with geraniums in a timely manner, then very quickly the flower will lose its shape, bare shoots will stretch out, and the number of inflorescences will come to naught. When and how to cut and form a flower crown correctly? Here's what experienced geranium growers advise.

1 How to prune geraniums in autumn
2 Crown formation

3 Pruning: necessary or useless procedure?
4 Mistakes when trimming geraniums at home

How to prune geraniums in autumn

The purpose of the autumn pruning

There are many varieties of geranium: it is indoor or garden plant, with decumbent or climbing stems, tall or short, bushy or ampelous. For each flower, you need to choose your own pruning method, comparing it with the desired shapes that you would like to give the pelargonium.

Geraniums should be helped to form a beautiful bush

The ultimate goal of pruning geraniums is to get a beautiful bush with luxuriantly flowering inflorescences. Accompanying - the improvement of the bush.

For all types of geraniums, it is important to adhere to the main requirement: pruning and control over the shape of the bush should be done regularly. It is impossible to trim once and get the intended design. Engage in the formation beautiful view geraniums need to be constantly, starting immediately after planting. You do not need to wait a year or two for the stems to grow to great lengths and become bare, with only a few leaves at the very top. Pruning leads to increased growth of side shoots and stimulates the conception of new inflorescences.

The right place to trim a geranium cutting

The geranium itself, without human intervention, does not throw out additional side stems. But dormant growth buds are located at each node. Their growth should be provoked. After pruning, the plant begins to grow compactly, without jumping out bare and ugly branches. In addition to lateral shoots, flower buds are also activated. Such geraniums bloom longer and more magnificently than their groomed counterparts. After flowering is completed, the bush gives a quality planting material, which allows you to propagate your favorite variety of pelargonium.

Time spending

Pelargonium is a smart plant. She will tell you when to start pruning. Geraniums are pruned after flowering stops on the bush and the last inflorescences withered. If the plant is planted in open ground for the summer or remains in the garden all year round, then half the height of the stem is removed. If a flower spent summer on outdoors, before pruning, it should be kept in the room for ten days so that it gets used to the new living conditions. Removing the excess crown improves air exchange, the lower leaves open to sunny color. This reduces the risk of fungal diseases.

Formed flowering geranium bush

Winter is a dormant time for a plant, but not for a grower. It is necessary to observe the condition of the cuts. If the cut has turned black, has become an unnatural color, it is necessary to repeat the pruning, removing the non-healing wound on the stem.

Features of the procedure for different types of pelargonium

You can determine whether a particular plant needs pruning by its appearance. If the bush is compact, the branches are neat, then pruning can be postponed until spring. For example, zonal geraniums often grow obscenely, exposing the bare trunk of leaves. Then, of course, pruning is required. Ampelous pelargonium is beautiful with long shoots, but decorated with foliage and flowers. If the type of plant is quite presentable, then it is better not to touch the bush until spring.

Variegated geraniums are under severe stress after pruning, so if you can not cut, then do not do it. There is an interesting variety - mini-pelargoniums. The name itself indicates their miniature size. Therefore, pruning is a rare event for them. Is it just to remove something suddenly protruding from the overall compact design. Royal geranium needs pruning after the bush has grown. In autumn, everything superfluous is cut off, leaving only a small shoot with buds.

Scheme of work

It is necessary to carry out the removal of geranium shoots with a disinfected tool. This is a sharp knife (kitchen or stationery) or blade. Scissors are not suitable for this procedure, as they pinch the stem. Cut off the geranium trunk above the leaf node in three to five millimeters. The cut is made at an acute angle. You should choose nodules directed to the outside of the bush. With the growth of shoots from such a bud, the shoots will not lead to thickening of the crown, as they will tend to separate from the center of the bush.

Saved shoots with a direction of growth from the center do not lead to thickening of the crown

Step-by-step instructions for autumn pruning geraniums

Remove yellowed or damaged twigs, leaves and any faded inflorescences. Thus the bush will reveal its true form.

Prepare tools. You will need a sharp knife, blade, in extreme cases, pruners or scissors. You can disinfect the instrument with alcohol by wiping their working surface. Another way: ignite over a flame or boil in water for 10-15 minutes.

Make an incision above the leaf node. If the branch directs its growth into the bush, it is better to remove it. Crossing shoots should also be cut off. Weakened branches are pruned without pity.

It is necessary to start pruning from the outer stems, gradually moving to the center of the bush. If it is necessary to remove about half of the bush, pruning should be carried out in two or three passes. Between each approach, allow a two-week respite for the plant.

You can trim the tips of the stems after four to five leaf nodules. Here new sprouts with peduncles will form.

Process slices disinfectant(ash, coal, cinnamon, alcohol solution).

Apply nitrogen fertilizer to support the plant. Create appropriate thermal and light conditions for wintering.

Video tip

Features of care for geraniums after pruning

The place where the geranium stem was cut must be disinfected. Activated charcoal works well for this. It needs to be crushed into powder, and then sprinkled on the cut. Another remedy is wood ash. It is also a good antiseptic. Cinnamon powder is considered a natural stimulant for wound healing. They can also process the cut.

The treated plant must be fed with nitrogen fertilizers. This vitamin complex will help to cope with stress and stimulate the growth of shoots and greenery.

For the splendor of greenery and flowers, the plant must be fed

Watering should be reduced. Since there will be very little green mass left, excess moisture will not be able to evaporate. This can lead to disease and death of the plant. It has already been weakened by the experience.

Wintering conditions: table

crown formation

It is necessary to form a geranium crown almost immediately after planting the cutting. The main actions to achieve this goal are pruning and pinching. If the geranium is pruned in the fall, then in the spring you can cut or pinch it. What is the difference? Pinching is the removal of the growth point of a plant. In its absence, the geranium throws out side shoots and turns into a small branched tree. The first pinch is made over 8 or 10 leaves. The time of its holding is the end of February-March. Lateral shoots are also pinched as they grow. It is not worth delaying with spring manipulations with geraniums. The later the pinching is done, the longer the time before the flowers appear.

Pinching young sprouts accelerates the growth of lateral shoots

Spring pruning is a cut of large stems at the level of the second or fifth leaf from the root. The time of the operation is autumn or early spring.

The basics of proper crown formation

Carry out all manipulations with geraniums only with treated tools and clean hands.
First of all, remove (cut or pinch) the shoots growing inside the bush to prevent thickening.
With a large distance between pairs of leaves, the stem is cut immediately above the leaves, indenting up to five millimeters.
First of all, diseased shoots are removed, capturing up to five centimeters of the healthy part.

Step-by-step instructions for spring procedures

Spring work with geraniums is very similar to autumn pruning. The first three steps are exactly the same. But it also has its own nuances.

Carefully examine the plant and carefully consider what kind of result you would like to get.

Remove yellowed or damaged twigs and leaves.

Cut off all the stems, leaving the most healthy and beautiful. It is necessary to remove the lower side shoots from it.

A stem that is too tall must be shortened by removing part of the top. Lateral buds will grow and the geranium will turn into a small tree on the trunk (or a ball on a stick).

Pelargonium stems that are too long or crooked can be cut off, leaving stumps up to ten centimeters. In a few weeks, fluffy bushes will appear in the pot instead.

Pay attention to the direction of growth of the kidney. It should tend to grow in the opposite direction from the main stem.

Treat the sections with a disinfectant (ash, coal, cinnamon, alcohol solution).

Geranium crown formation (video)

Spring pruning and pinching perform an important agrotechnical function - they stimulate the formation of new buds, branches and inflorescences.

It is important to remember: after spring pruning and / or pinching, geraniums will bloom later.

The explanation for this is simple, the flower needs time to recuperate. Therefore, you need to decide what you want to achieve: early flowering or its splendor and longevity. Given that pinching is a more gentle procedure than pruning, then in the spring you can stop at the first option. It is necessary to pinch young shoots not only in spring, but also as the plant grows.

Geranium needs constant monitoring of the grower for the growth of shoots and the removal of unnecessary sprouts

Without urgent need, pruning in the spring can be omitted. You can only cut up to 20% of all shoots. Large thinning can significantly shift the timing of flowering. Also, the plant can spend all its energy on recovering from stress and not bloom at all this season.

Care after work: table

Geraniums that have undergone spring pinching or pruning need the most favorable conditions.

Conditions for keeping geraniums	Required indicators
Temperature	Comfortable temperature - above +12 degrees. Can be displayed on Fresh air at night temperature from +4 degrees.
Light mode	South side of the house. Geranium is very fond of the sun and tolerates a direct hit well. sun rays. Doesn't like drafts.
Watering	Water in a day or two. You can check the need for watering by the top dried layer of soil.
Air humidity	Under no circumstances should the plant be sprayed. For geraniums, this is dangerous.
top dressing	Loves nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You have to pay twice a month. Can be purchased ready-made fertilizers"For flowering plants". Does not tolerate organic fertilizers (fresh manure).

Pruning: necessary or useless procedure?

Of course, geranium pruning can be omitted. Only now, will a beautiful flowering bush turn out from a plant? Most likely no. Geraniums tend to stretch their stems. The elongated stem is not covered with foliage and does not throw out inflorescences. The plant will grow, but there will be nothing to please the eye. Some flower growers suggest not to suffer with old plants, pruning and pinching them. They consider the best option cut the old bush in the fall, discard the root, and root the cuttings and get young plant.

Geranium without pruning stretches up and becomes naked and ugly

If you save the old faded geranium, then it is important not to forget that pruning is the strongest test for the plant. Therefore, it is better to carry it out with an increase in long daylight hours, that is, at the end of winter or the beginning of spring. Autumn pruning is worse tolerated by pelargonium and the plant may not have enough strength to recover.

Mistakes when pruning geraniums at home

Pruning geraniums is not such a difficult process. The only thing that must be observed is the timeliness of its implementation. But improper pruning will lead to an unplanned result or the death of the plant.

Geranium pleases the human eye with beautiful flowers and a peculiar aroma. Every grower can create a well-groomed pelargonium bush. To do this, it is enough to prune the plant in time and provide it with proper care. Lushly blooming geraniums need to be fed with potassium. This is where all the secrets of creating a spherical crown or a fluffy geranium bush end. Have a nice sight for your eyes.

Geranium, or, as our grandmothers affectionately called this flower, “kalachik”, is in almost every home. Dark green, slightly pubescent leaves and magnificent flowers in a variety of shades create a cozy home. There was a time when this flower, along with ficus, was called bourgeois, but, fortunately, these times have sunk into oblivion, and geranium continues to delight us with its flowering.

Among the numerous family of geraniums, there are plants that are completely unpretentious in their care, and a beginner in floriculture will also cope with their cultivation. But perhaps not everyone knows that among these plants there is a variety that has been awarded the title of royal. It is difficult to call this flower just a geranium, many inexperienced flower growers will not find similarities between it and their sweet and more modest one. And of course, it is unlikely that anyone will call it a “kalachik”.

The heroine of our article will be a luxurious royal room geranium. The plant is not easy, requiring constant attention and careful care. But we assure you, your labors will be more than rewarded when you see the flowering of the royal geranium.

Description

Royal geranium, or is a representative of a large genus with more than 250 species. It's gorgeous indoor flower, which, with proper care, pleases the owners with huge (15 cm), flowers of extraordinary beauty of various colors.

This is a native of the humid and hot climate of South America. She feels great in conditions of high humidity and does not tolerate direct sunlight. At home, royal pelargonium grows up to 60-80 cm. More tall plant it makes no sense to grow, since the buds are only at the apical points of growth. At a height of 100 centimeters, the plant completely loses its decorative properties.

Today, many flower growers are interested in the royal at home for such a magnificent plant has many pitfalls that need to be circumvented so that the capricious beauty will please with her flowering. It must be remembered that even with full observance of all the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to extend the flowering period of royal geranium. It is much shorter than in ordinary species.

Royal geranium does not bloom: what to do?

This question worries many flower growers. There may be several reasons for this. To understand them, you need to understand what the royal needs for this plant suggests right choice containers for planting, correct soil, timely watering and pruning, providing a winter dormant period, transplanting if necessary.

Let us consider in more detail the reasons why geranium refuses to bloom. In the case when the plant is planted in too large a pot, the pelargonium begins to actively increase its green mass and grow. In this situation, the plant simply does not have enough strength to bloom, since its energy is spent on the growth of the root system and landscaping. Transplant the flower into a smaller vase.

Another reason is that the roots of the flower are damaged. You should be aware that royal geraniums are prone to fungal and bacterial infections of the root system. It is not easy to immediately determine the disease. This becomes visible when the disease affects the stems and leaves. Geranium suffers from nutritional deficiencies. In this case, the plant is treated with antiseptics, which are sold in all flower shops. However, if the disease is running, it is rarely possible to save the plant. Flower growers should be aware that any disease and pests (aphids, weevils, mites, etc.) force the plant to spend all its strength fighting them. Flowering in such a situation is out of the question.

Another fairly common reason is the lack of a resting phase. What should be done in this case? Reduce watering in the autumn-winter period, do not feed the flower. Move the plant to a cooler place (for example, to a loggia). Heat in winter is detrimental to royal geraniums. Watering also affects the flowering of the plant, although not as much as the above reasons. What kind of watering does geranium require and why competent pruning is very important for it, we will describe below.

Watering

Probably, after looking at the photos presented in our article, many people will really like the royal geranium. Home care for this beauty has its own characteristics. In particular, this applies to irrigation. This procedure is best done through the pallet. The plant will independently adjust the required amount of moisture. Water for irrigation should be separated, at room temperature, boiled chilled water can be used.

Before flowering, the leaves should be sprayed from time to time. Dry crust that appeared on top layer soil, is a signal for watering. Excess moisture can provoke plant diseases, and its deficiency leads to the absence of flowers.

Geranium royal: pruning for lush flowering

Quite often, flower growers make a very common mistake in caring for this plant - pruning is done in the spring. It would seem that this is the most suitable time, but in this case, the royal geranium may stop blooming. Pruning for lush flowering should be done in autumn and winter.

Often, improper pruning leads to the fact that the plant grows too long stems and loses its decorative appeal. To form a beautiful crown, you must strictly follow the simple rules:

autumn pruning

Experienced flower growers know that royal geranium is very responsive to the competent formation of a bush. Pruning for lush flowering is most often done immediately after the pelargonium fades. This usually happens at the end of August. This procedure should be carried out in two stages with an interval of 1.5 months. This is necessary in order to prevent severe plant stress.

With such early autumn pruning, royal geranium grows new shoots very quickly. Pinching them (above the fourth pair of leaves) stimulates the formation of new young shoots.

Trimming Order

In order for pelargonium to delight you with lush flowering, a certain order should be followed:

winter pruning

Experienced flower growers note that on short winter days, in the absence of sunlight royal geranium stretches to a height. Pruning for lush flowering at this time is partially replaced by pinching, and the long shoots that have appeared are cut off.

In April, the royal pelargonium begins to bloom, so pruning should be stopped in mid-March. In order to maintain the shape of the bush, pinching can be carried out in the summer, after flowering. It is strongly not recommended to prune geraniums from December to February, so as not to disturb the dormant period. resting. At this time, he needs minimal watering and a lighted, cool (temperature not higher than 15 degrees) place.

reproduction

Royal geranium is propagated, like ordinary varieties, by cuttings. At the end of August, cut cuttings 7-9 cm long, keep them in the air for several hours, and then plant them in a peat-sand mixture. Use a plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect and keep the soil mixture moist at all times. Then prepare a mixture of sand, soddy and leafy soil and plant rooted cuttings.

We told you what is required in order for royal geranium to delight you with its beauty. The care and reproduction of this luxurious plant is somewhat different from the usual species. But if you follow all the rules of agricultural technology, this marvelous flower will reward you for your efforts with lush flowering, unfortunately, not for too long.

There are many opinions about when to prune geraniums, what time of the year is most suitable for this? It is difficult to answer this question unambiguously, since it all depends on many factors: the variety, the condition of the plant, its age, the purpose of pruning. In general, flower growers and gardeners believe that bushes should be formed regularly, as needed. It occurs especially sharply when the shoots begin to stretch too much, lose foliage and, accordingly, external attractiveness. Basically, these are cosmetic pinchings of the apical parts.

autumn geranium pruning

In autumn, geraniums gradually begin to prepare for winter, so experienced geranium growers try to ensure complete rest for their wards throughout the winter.

They reduce the temperature to + 5- + 12 ° C, reduce watering, stop feeding the plant, but keep it in a well-lit room. If the plant still tries to bloom in winter, then the inflorescences are immediately removed. Such a little trick allows you to get beautiful flowers in the spring. The fact is that cutting geraniums in the fall means ridding them of almost half of the shoots that have grown strongly over the summer. She is given a great opportunity to take a break from summer flowering and gain strength without spending them on “feeding” extra stems. In addition, this procedure will allow the plant to lay more buds, from which healthy leaves and flowers will form in the spring and summer. Knowing this fact, it is no longer necessary to find out when to prune geraniums so that they bloom in the summer, looking for this information on flower growing sites and forums.

How is autumn pruning done?

In autumn, geraniums are subjected to significant pruning. Before cutting geraniums at home, old, dried stems, inflorescences and leaves are removed. Shoots "looking inside" are cut out so that they do not spoil the shape of the flower and do not obscure its basal part. Then healthy branches are cut off by about a third. The minimum number of leaves that should remain on the shoot after cutting is 2 pcs. But it is better if there are about five or seven of them. You should not be zealous in picking off the leaves, as they supply the root system with many necessary elements. Only completely dried, wilted, yellowed or deformed foliage is removed.

The autumn period is the best answer to the question: when to cut geraniums for seedlings, since seedlings planted for the winter will not only have time to take root well during the snowy period, but also branch out. Thus, autumn is the best time when cutting geraniums into cuttings is doubly beneficial: with the advent of spring, young plants will immediately bloom, and the remaining cuttings after spring, re-pruning can be used to further obtain new indoor flowers.

Rules for pruning geraniums for the winter

After pruning, the shoots are treated with ground charcoal or activated charcoal.

How is spring pruning done?

There is a lot of controversy about whether geraniums should be pruned in the spring. But the controversy boils down to the following: to decide when to prune geraniums in the spring, and whether it is worth doing it at all, each grower should decide for a particular flower in individually. During the winter period, the plant could grow strongly, especially if the conditions necessary for "rest" were not met.

If this happens, then the plant needs spring pruning. True, after it, flowering will begin later, but will not be inferior in quality. For an experienced grower, it is not a big secret when to prune geraniums in the spring - the timing suitable for this operation is the last days of February - the first two weeks of March. This is the period when it is time to cut the geraniums into cuttings in the spring, since it is not recommended to carry out activities for pruning the shoots later.

Pruning in spring is not as drastic as pruning in autumn. Basically, overgrown shoots are pinched so that the plant spends its strength on laying lateral buds, from which new stems and peduncles will grow in the future.

If all the necessary requirements for ensuring winter recreation have been met, then deep autumn pruning will be enough. In the spring, the plant will wake up from its winter sleep and begin to actively recruit buds. All the rules for spring pruning completely coincide with the methods of plant formation in autumn.

Royal geranium - pruning features

The pruning technology described above is suitable for most varieties of unpretentious zonal geraniums. But there are flower varieties that are more demanding in care, including pruning. These include grandiflora or royal geranium. It blooms with unusually beautiful, and most importantly, large flowers, which is why it is often called large-flowered geranium. One flower in diameter can reach from 5 to 7 cm. But their decorative effect does not end there, as often the petals are corrugated, and the colors simply amaze with their diversity. You will not find monochromatic flowers on this type of plant. They are always decorated with some spots, rims, stripes. Outwardly, they strongly resemble petunias.

But such beauty is not without flaws. The main ones are demanding care and a short flowering period. If ordinary, zonal geraniums can bloom almost all year round, then grandiflora will please with its inflorescences only 3-4 months per season. This will only happen if it is properly taken care of. Knowing her capricious nature, the owners of the flower are interested in how to prune the royal geranium so that in the spring the wayward beauty will fully demonstrate all the varietal qualities inherent in it. The first step is to decide when to transplant and prune large-flowered geraniums - in autumn or spring. In this case, only the autumn period is suitable for pruning. Two problems are solved at once - the bush is preparing for wintering and material is being collected for further breeding of the variety - cuttings.

The procedure for pruning geraniums

Before cutting the geranium so that it blooms, it is necessary to disinfect the tool with which the stems will be cut. Scissors, pruning shears or pruners should be sharp to get a clean cut. Next, all obsolete parts of the plant and leaves are cut off. Leafless shoots are removed at the root, in front of the very first node from the ground. The same should be done with too elongated shoots. Then proceed to pruning the main shoot. It is cut by a third, since it is possible to cut a geranium for abundant and lush flowering only by sacrificing just such a part of the stems and leaves.

Winter pruning plants

In winter, it is desirable to provide peace to the grandiflora. In no case is it recommended to carry out pruning in the period December-January. But sometimes it grows in winter. Faced with this problem, flower growers solve a dilemma: is it possible to prune a geranium in February if it has begun to outgrow? In rare cases, you can cut geraniums in February, but this can hardly be called a full-fledged pruning. Only one overgrown shoot is removed, which spoils the appearance of the flower too much. It is better to pinch the elongated stems, rather than cut them off completely. Moreover, the last month of winter is the deadline when the royal indoor geranium is cut, since in April it already produces the first inflorescences. Therefore, starting from the second half of March, pinching and pruning should be stopped for a while.

Ampel geranium - pruning principles

In the spring, she needs to form the correct crown if the bush has grown and extra layering has appeared. They are cut off, leaving a few buds. Throughout the spring season, the crown is maintained in order by pinching the stem after the fifth leaf. Such a haircut makes the plant more accurate, makes it possible to grow new shoots and peduncles. Often the subject of discussion is the question, is it possible to prune flowering ampelous geraniums in spring and summer?
The answer is simple: only those inflorescences that have already faded and have lost their visual appeal should be cut. The plant does not need any other interventions during flowering.

The homeland of the ancestors of the royal pelargonium is the Cape Lowland of South Africa. From here, first to England, and then throughout the world, many indoor views including pelargonium. Crossing several varieties, the breeders got the royal pelargonium.

The most beautiful representative of pelargoniums is royal geranium. This beautiful indoor flower differs from related varieties in lush flowering. Bright and delicate inflorescences do not rise above the bush on the peduncle, as in other representatives of the genus, but are flush with the green mass of the flower. The bush itself is more lush. The short stem is densely covered with green leaves. The inflorescence is larger than most species and reaches up to 15 centimeters in diameter. In some varieties, only one flower reaches 7 centimeters in diameter. An example of such a variety is White Glory pelargonium. Thanks to the lush and friendly flowering, which forms a continuous hat above the bush, the plant was named royal (royal, large-flowered) geranium. In some representatives of the species, the flower has two upper and three lower, clearly defined petals. The upper petals are always more brightly colored and look like pansies.

Pelargonium White Glory

Royal pelargonium, like all geraniums, has exclusively useful properties. With caution, it should be taken by people suffering from allergies and asthma, for others it can become a source of energy. Essential oils and phytoncides secreted by the flower relieve stress, relieve irritability and tension. Red varieties of pelargonium can help in relationships. Phytoncides and essential oils secreted by the plant, relieve insomnia. Used in cosmetology as a component of massage oils: for varicose veins, hair and skin care. They endow this flower with the ability to harmonize relationships, attract happiness, love and understanding to the house. It is believed that the plant contributes to financial well-being, relieves and protects the house from the evil eye and damage. To do this, it is recommended to get him an azalea as a pair.

Bright decorative bush and lush flowering with proper care persist from March to October. To do this, the flower must be cut in a timely manner, fed and observe the temperature regime.

Pelargonium royal, with the exception of a few varieties, differs from other geraniums in a slightly pronounced aroma. Plant height does not exceed 50 centimeters. Large inflorescences are distinguished by a wide variety of colors. There are white, pink, burgundy, purple and almost black varieties. On the petals of some there is a pattern in the form of spots, dashes and veins. Petals can be terry with a wavy edge or even, opening into a plane. The flowers of the royal geranium are collected in an umbrella inflorescence, reaching 15 centimeters in diameter and covering the entire plant. Flowers on the royal pelargonium appear in March-April, flowering ends in September.

The leaves are entire, lobed, with a wavy edge, sometimes finely serrated. Green color. The leaves are fleshy, covered with villi, although some representatives do not have them. The leaves are attached to the stem by cuttings, the leaf arrangement is next. The stem is erect, dense, almost completely hidden by foliage. The root system is fibrous.

In autumn, the plant does not lose its decorative effect, later retains dense green foliage throughout the winter. After acquiring a flower, do not rush to transplant it. Place the pelargonium on a windowsill where it will grow, let it acclimate for two weeks, or wait until it blooms. Only after that the flower can be transplanted.

Varieties and types

Currently, more than 1000 varieties of royal geraniums have been bred. The selection is mainly carried out in Germany. Varieties of royal pelargonium are divided into several groups.

The Candy Flowers group includes resistant varieties with luxuriant blooms. These flowers thrive in open ground. These include, for example, the Cambi variety with beautiful delicate flowers, spots on the petals and light pink veins.

There are pelargoniums with a large inflorescence of dark cherry color and dark spots on the petals, such as Camred and Candy Flowers Bright Red.

In the Camdared variety, the outer and inner side petals are painted in different shades. The bright red inner and pale outer sides of the petal add extra volume to the inflorescence.

Candy Flowers Pink with Eye - variety with dark spots on pink leaves.

The group of pelargonium Angels includes miniature varieties with a short flowering period. They feel great at home in winter. The structure of the stem allows you to grow them as ampelous varieties. They do not need wintering with a decrease in temperature for the formation of buds. Unlike most varieties of royal pelargonium, the foliage of representatives of this variety has a pronounced aroma. Among the most common varieties, Spanish Angel is the most popular. The flower does not exceed 35 centimeters in height. The flowers are painted in two tones: the upper ones are darker, and the lower ones are light purple. The diameter of each flower does not exceed 3.5 centimeters.

The Imperial Butterfiy variety also belongs to miniature varieties, not exceeding 30 centimeters in height. Pretty white flowers with purple dashes have a pleasant lemon scent.

The two-color varieties include Darmsden. The plant is not large, compactly located on the windowsill. The upper petals are dark cherry. Lower white color, the presence of dashes is possible.

PAC Angeleyes Viola variety with a pleasant citrus aroma and a beautiful lush inflorescence of delicate almost white flowers with a pink spot on each petal.

Some varieties of pelargonium are able to bloom several times per season. For example, the variety Sally Munro. It pleases the eye with two-tone flowers with dark cherry upper and pale pink lower petals.

White varieties beloved by many, among which the Mona Lisa variety boasts the most lush flowering, will decorate any window.

Varieties with a wavy edge of the flower are popular. Georgina Blythe can be considered a representative - with flowers of a red-orange hue, a white neck and a white edging on the petals. The variety is so small that it rarely exceeds 35 centimeters in height. The Morwenna variety also has a beautiful edge. The plant is so dark in color that it is often confused with black. However, it can be described as a maroon velvet color.

plant care

Caring for royal geraniums is not much different from caring for other members of the pelargonium family. The plant is native to South Africa. The flower was obtained by crossing several varieties specifically for home growing. The flower turned out warm and light-loving. Royal pelargonium is finicky in care, but flower growers are very fond of its lush flowering. To get long flowering, you must follow some rules.

Features of summer care at home

Caring for royal geraniums at home is easy. In summer, the flower is in a state of flowering, so all pruning procedures are stopped before flower buds are laid. It remains only to water and fertilize. Fertilizer should not contain nitrogen, a small amount is acceptable. Faded flowers should be removed in a timely manner, this will prolong flowering and preserve the decorative effect.

Average outdoor temperatures are comfortable for pelargonium, it can be exposed to fresh air. If in early spring or in autumn, temperatures fall below 22 degrees, the flower may be subject to various bacterial and fungal diseases, especially if this is associated with excessive watering. Also, low outdoor temperatures can lead to reddening of the leaves.

If the flower pot is on the street, be careful about watering it. The temperature difference can lead to uneven drying of the earthen clod. The best time to water is before 10 am or after 6 pm if you can be sure the night will be warm. Despite the fact that the plant is from a very hot climate zone, direct sunlight can harm the delicate flower petals.

Pelargonium, which is outdoors in the summer, requires special attention and regular examination for the presence of pests. When the first signs of pests appear, the plant must be isolated and treated with an insecticide. Planting a flower in a flower bed without a pot is not recommended. The roots of the plant can be damaged by insects. In addition, the royal pelargonium, unlike the zonal one, does not like frequent transplantation.

Features of winter care at home

At home, caring for royal geraniums comes down to providing a dormant period with a decrease in temperature to 10-15 degrees. Only varieties from the Angels group do not need wintering, they can continue to be kept under normal conditions. room temperature. Overwintering pots should stand for at least two months. At this time, reduce watering and pinch the bush. Before wintering, the plant is prepared, the flower is cut by 1/3 and stop feeding. This will allow next year to get more lush flowering and extend it up to 9 months.

Location and lighting

Pelargonium is a very photophilous plant, but direct sunlight can harm it. Keeping in a room that is too dark will cause the stems to stretch out too much, becoming thin and pale green in color. Lack of light in winter will adversely affect flowering. The optimal location of pelargonium is on the east or west window. On the windowsill of the south window, it is better to shade the plant from direct sunlight.

Temperature regime

Pelargonium is a thermophilic plant. For summer content, outdoor conditions are suitable for her. middle lane. Temperature + 22 ... + 27 ° is the most optimal. If the temperature rises, the plant must be watered more often: twice a day until 10 and after 18 hours.

In winter, the temperature must be reduced to -10 ... -15 °. You can keep the plant on a heated loggia or in a greenhouse. It must be taken into account that the amount of light should not be greatly reduced. On cold windowsills, usually with wooden frames, the flower will also be comfortable. The above temperature allows the plant to set flower buds, gives it a chance to rest and provides early lush blooms.

Watering

Due to the fact that the flower needs a change in temperature, watering also needs to be adjusted. On hot summer days, watering should be increased to twice a day. Indoors in the summer, one to two waterings per week is enough. With a cold content, watering is reduced to one per week. Before each watering, you need to make sure that the earth ball is dry. Waterlogging in cold weather leads to damage to the plant by root rot and powdery mildew.

Top dressings and fertilizers

Pelargonium grandiflora prefers tight pots, can grow in the same one for several years. The soil is depleted, there is a need for top dressing. In early spring, leaving the dormant period, nitrogen-containing fertilizers will be useful for the flower. They will help the plant "wake up" and begin to grow actively, forming dense green foliage. During the flowering period, phosphorus should prevail in the fertilizer - an element that promotes lush flowering. Feed the plant with fertilizers for flowering begin in March, finish feeding in September. Excessive use of fertilizers in winter can harm the formation of flowers. If the pot is on the street and needs frequent watering, then the plant will have to be fertilized more often, since trace elements are washed out with water.

pruning

Every year after flowering, before the geranium retires, the plant is cut back by 1/3 or 2/3. This procedure is carried out to obtain more lush flowering in the future and preserve the decorative appearance of the flower. Timely pruning will allow air to circulate freely inside the bush, protect it from the appearance of rot and insects. Autumn pruning is necessary for almost all varieties of pelargonium, but in spring it is not necessary.

Before the flower begins active growth in the spring, it is inspected, very thin and long shoots are cut off. In the spring, pruning begins in February, no later than March. Do this with care so that at least 3-4 internodes remain on the shoot. With the help of pruning, you can form a standard plant. To do this, remove the lower branches and leaves, leaving one large trunk. The pelargonium stem is very fragile and with such a formation needs support.

Step-by-step instruction Pelargonium trimmings:

For cutting, a sharp knife or blade is suitable. The tool must be disinfected with alcohol or boiling water.
Shoots for cutting are chosen weakened, strongly elongated and creating excessive density in the center of the bush.
The cut is made at an angle, in the direction from the center to the periphery of the bush, above the leaf node. If the leaves are not needed in this place, the cut is made under the leaf node.
The cut points are treated with charcoal or cinnamon powder.
If the shoots are young and thin, they can be pinched with dry, clean fingers.
After the procedure, the plant is fed with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer. This will allow the plant to more easily endure stress.
Royal Pelargonium is very sensitive to pruning. To cause less damage to the plant, it is recommended to divide the pruning procedure into two stages, carried out within 1-2 months.

Royal Pelargonium is very sensitive to pruning. To cause less damage to the plant, the pruning procedure is recommended to be divided into two stages and carried out within 1-2 months.

After pruning, cuttings remain that can be used to grow new plants, as well as grafting in order to obtain an interesting and more resistant flower. With the help of grafting, stamped species are obtained. In this way, you can get a tree with different colors on one bush. For royal pelargonium, it is better to choose fragrant pelargonium as a support. The basis should be a healthy plant at least one year old. It is better to plant miniature varieties in early spring during the period of active growth.

Diseases and pests

Pelargonium royal is a strong, healthy species that is exposed to diseases and attack by insect pests only with improper care.

The appearance of brown spots on the leaves indicates infection of the plant with gray rot. The cause of the disease is excessive moisture and high nitrogen content in the soil. You can fight the disease by treating the plant with the drug "Fundazol" or "Vitaros". The flower will have to be transplanted.

A black stem at the base indicates damage by root and stem rot. The flower with such a disease becomes lethargic, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. The reason is the increased acidity of the earth, its strong waterlogging. It is necessary to treat the plant with Bioporam or Fitolavin.

Flowers that are planted in a flower bed for the summer are more likely to suffer from late blight. The disease manifests itself in the general lethargy of the plant, growth retardation, the appearance of spots with white fluff. Geranium must be transplanted, the damaged area cut off with a sterile knife to a healthy area, then treated with charcoal. During transplantation, completely replace the soil, disinfect the pot. The transplanted plant is shed with Bordeaux liquid.

Sometimes tubercles and growths form on the plant. This disease is called Eden. The reason for the appearance is waterlogging of the soil. If signs of infection are found, the affected leaves are cut off, watering is reduced.

Among insect pests, aphids, mites, whiteflies and caterpillars are dangerous for royal pelargonium. Many insects can be seen with the naked eye: traces of their vital activity are visible on the flower, cobwebs appear, leaves wither and turn yellow. Caterpillars prefer tender pelargonium buds. To combat them, insecticides such as Marathon, Fitovetm, Aktara are suitable. "Aktara" is also suitable for insects sucking juice, for a while it will become poisonous to them.

All plant treatments must be carried out outdoors in calm weather, avoiding direct sunlight. Indoors, aspirin or soapy water can be used to control pests. To do this, one tablet of aspirin is dissolved in 8 liters of water, the plant is sprayed once every 3 weeks. With a moistened cotton pad in a soapy solution, wipe the leaves or spray the entire plant from a spray bottle. It is best to test on one sheet first to see the reaction.

If the royal geranium does not bloom, it is worth taking a closer look at it for insects or fungal infections. The affected plant is not able to bloom, as a lot of energy is spent on resisting the disease.

Planting and reproduction

Royal geranium is easily propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds. The most popular method of propagation is cuttings, they are formed in sufficient quantities after the formation of a bush.

Reproduction by seeds is a more complex and lengthy process. It will not work to get seeds on your own, since all representatives of pelargonium are hybrid forms, their seeds do not retain all the characteristics mother plant. It is safer to buy seeds in the store. Plants obtained in this way will be stronger and healthier, with a long flowering period.

Seeds are evenly distributed over loose soil, which must necessarily include sand or perlite (at least half of the total mass of the earth). The soil must be calcined or shed with a solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds are sprinkled with wet sand, slightly deepened. The entire container is covered with glass or film, cleaned in a well-lit place, without direct sunlight, maintaining a temperature of + 21 ... + 25 °.

When true leaves appear, the seedlings are distributed into individual pots, no larger than 10 centimeters in diameter and 14 centimeters deep, with drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay. After the appearance of the fifth true leaf, the seedlings are pinched. This stimulates branching and allows you to get a more lush bush.

When and how to transplant a plant?

Pelargonium is able to grow in one pot for a long time. Unlike their relatives, the zonal geraniums, the royal geranium does not tolerate transplanting on summer time to the garden. From frequent change of place and transplantation, the plant may die.

A plant transplant is required when the pot is completely filled with roots. The new pot should be 1.5 - 2 centimeters larger than the previous one. A very large pot will slow down the growth of the plant, may cause a lack of flowering and even the death of a flower. The plant will not form flower stalks until the root system completely fills the entire pot. The best for pelargonium is a shallow and not very wide pot made of unglazed ceramics. You can plant in a plastic pot, but you have to be careful about watering.

At the bottom of the pot, there must be a good drainage layer, which can be used as expanded clay or fragments of ceramics. On top of the drainage, it is advised to cut and put a circle of cotton fabric. It will retain small particles of soil and will not allow them to quickly wash out. The soil can be purchased at the store: any neutral soil that does not include moisture-retaining components, such as sphagnum, will do. Dense, heavy earth must be further enriched with perlite. The substrate for planting should be loose and moderately nutritious. You can make the soil yourself. To do this, you need peat, sand and leaf humus. Royal pelargonium prefers neutral or slightly alkaline soil, a little ash can be added to the mixture.

Plant survival depends on the time of year. The optimal time for transplantation is February, March and April. The awakened bush, entering the phase of active growth, easily tolerates transplantation. It will be more difficult for a flower transplanted in the fall to adapt. Without extreme necessity, it is better to refuse to transplant a plant in summer or winter. During flowering, the resulting stress can lead to the death of the buds and the death of the entire flower.

A plant purchased in a store must be left for two weeks to adapt and undergo quarantine. During this time, the pelargonium will get used to the new conditions, it will be possible to make sure that there are no diseases and pests on the flower. Most plants in the store are sold in bloom, so you will need to wait until the flower fades before repotting.

They begin to transplant with abundant moistening of a clod of earth, then drainage is poured into a new pot, and, carefully removing the pelargonium with a clod of earth, install it in a new pot, adding fresh soil. Abundantly watered.

What to do after landing?

Fresh earth is rich in minerals, so the plant does not need to be fed. You can water it with the root formation stimulator "Heteroauxin" or the immunostimulator "Epin". Place the pot on a well-lit window sill, out of direct sunlight.

Propagation by cuttings

Propagation by cuttings will allow you to quickly get a young plant. At home, this type of reproduction is available throughout the year. The survival rate of cuttings depends on the type of pelargonium and the season. It takes about 4 weeks for royal pelargonium to form roots, in winter - up to 8 weeks.

The highest percentage of survival in cuttings obtained during spring pruning. Young cuttings obtained in the autumn, during the winter, are strongly stretched and weakened. In winter, it is better for them to use the backlight, and pinch in the spring. The cuttings obtained in autumn will begin flowering next year, not earlier than June. Abundant early flowering can be achieved by cutting cuttings in April or March. Spring sap flow will accelerate all processes of survival and root formation.

A good cutting that can take root and grow into a healthy plant should be at least 5 centimeters long, with 3 leaves and 2-3 internodes with the leaves removed from below. If the cuttings are taken in the summer during flowering, the inflorescences will have to be removed. The presence of buds and flowers will slow down root formation and weaken the plant.

The selected segment of the stem is cut with a sharp sterile knife. You can use the blade by treating it with alcohol for sterility or by boiling it for 5 minutes. A suitable cutting is carefully cut off, the cut is treated with activated carbon. The cuttings are left at room temperature until the cut dries. Can be put in a glass of water by adding a tablet activated carbon. For reliable fixation, a piece of cardboard is placed on the glass, in which holes are cut through which geranium stalks are passed. The cutting should be immersed in water only 1/3. This method of rooting can lead to decay, so most often the cuttings are immediately planted in separate small pots. You can use disposable plastic cups with holes drilled in the base. There must be drainage at the bottom, and sand or vermiculite must be included in the composition of the soil. The soil is shed with a solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water for disinfection. Let stand and cool for at least a day.

Before planting, to accelerate root formation, the stalk is dipped in Kornevin powder. The cutting is buried in the ground by 2 centimeters, taken to a room with low lighting, left for 5 days. The absence of bright lighting will allow the plant to form roots more efficiently and quickly. After that, the plant can be placed on the window. Watering is carried out through the pan so that the weak and tender stems do not rot. Optimum temperature during this period +14…+16°.

It happens that some seedlings do not cope, they begin to turn yellow. For such sprouts, you can arrange a mini greenhouse by covering it with a jar. A sign of good health and rooting of the royal geranium is the appearance of new leaves. If the seedlings were planted in transparent plastic cups, then root development can be observed through the walls.

Using a peat tablet

Using a peat tablet will simplify the process of rooting the cutting. The advantage is that individual cups and soil are not needed. The tablets are placed on a pallet and watered abundantly. First, you can spill boiling water for sterility. When the tablets absorb moisture, drain the excess water. Water must be settled for at least 3 days and contain a root-forming stimulant. For royal pelargonium, this is a prerequisite. After cutting, you can dip the cutting into a powder that stimulates the appearance of roots. Other species can take root without a stimulant.

The cutting is deepened by 1/3 in the center of the peat tablet, pressed tightly to remove excess moisture. There is no need to spray and cover the sprouts, it is even contraindicated. The cuttings are placed on the window, covering from direct sunlight. Peat tablets accumulate and retain a lot of moisture, so watering should be very moderate.

When roots appear through the peat cup, the seedlings can be transplanted into pots. The soil will do universal or special for pelargoniums, can be purchased at the store. Drainage holes must be made in the cup, expanded clay or perlite should be poured into the bottom. Then add well-moistened soil. With thin scissors, free the roots of the plant from the walls of the tablet. The places where the roots have grown into the wall of the tablet are left untouched. Having placed the plant in a glass, we fill it with moist earth. The soil will absorb excess moisture from lower layers pot.

In this form, the plant can grow until it is ready for planting on permanent place, or you can immediately plant from a peat tablet in a permanent pot.

Growing problems

The royal pelargonium is perhaps the most beautiful and capricious to care for among all members of the family. Violation of the conditions of detention can lead to stretching of the internodes. From this, the plant becomes less decorative and weaker. Most often, the reason lies in the lack of lighting and lack of minerals.

The reason for the yellowing of the edge of the leaf is insufficient soil moisture. Waterlogging can lead to general lethargy of the bush and yellowing of the entire leaf plate, as well as to rot, damage by bacteria and fungi.

Many factors also affect flowering. Large-flowered pelargonium does not like frequent transplants. It should not be disturbed and transplanted more often than once every 3 years. Too large a pot will result in no flowers. Fallen flower stalks and buds indicate too hot and dry air in the room or the presence of a disease.

If all conditions are met, and the flower refuses to bloom, the reason may be in the ground. Nitrogen-rich soil will result in lush green growth and a strong bush, but no flowers.

Application in landscape design

Unlike zonal geraniums, royal geranium prefers stability. She will not respond well to transplanting into a flower bed in the summer. The plant will be sick, with a high probability of being affected by insects and fungi. In the summer, you can put planters and pots with royal pelargonium outside in a place hidden from direct sunlight. A beautiful subspecies of pelargonium Angel has interesting feature: in low light it becomes ampelous. It is ideal for vertical gardening and hanging pots. With sufficiently strong light, the shape of this miniature plant becomes erect, like in zonal species. Pelargonium in flowerpots is a wonderful decoration for balconies and terraces.