How plastic panels are connected at the corners. Wall cladding with mdf and pvc panels. Basic rules for the installation of plastic profiles and panels

The popularity of PVC panels in construction is due to quite weighty reasons. They are attractive decorative possibilities, consisting in a variety of shades, patterns and textures, low cost, simple installation, which the owner of a house or apartment can do with his own hands. Installation of PVC wall panels will allow you to forget about the need for a long time cosmetic repairs- compliance with the operating rules will allow them to maintain an attractive appearance for a long period appearance.

Where are PVC panels used?

Considering modern approach to finishing materials, it is somewhat difficult to imagine that plastic wall panels will be used to decorate a bedroom or living room, but in the corridor, in the kitchen, in the bathroom or on the veranda, they sometimes turn out to be simply irreplaceable. They are also often used for finishing public and office premises.

The versatility of the external style of the PVC panel models allows them to be used in any style of interior design, and the moisture-resistant properties make them the ideal hygienist-approved finish for bathrooms and toilets. An equally valuable property of the panels is their ability to withstand the loads created when the apartment is flooded by residents living on higher floors. Even in the event of a serious accident, the panels do not have to be replaced with new ones - they can be easily cleaned of dirt and acquire their original appearance after drying.

Using Wall panels for a kitchen where fat and soot can settle, it will be enough to periodically wipe the PVC material with warm water and ordinary detergents.

Mold, fungi and bacteria cannot multiply on the surface of the material.

Dimensions of PVC wall panels

Firstly, all manufactured panels can be divided by thickness into 5 mm and 8-10 mm. Sheets with a width of 100 mm usually have a length of 3 m, if the width of the sheet is from 200 to 370 mm, then its length can be 2.6 m, 2.7 m, 3.0 m.

By design, a lining with a width of 100 mm may differ in the width of the lock - for the "European" it is narrower, for the "Polka" it is wider. The lining with a width of 12.5 cm is distinguished by a double profile; it is quite rare for sale.

Panel material differs from lining in the absence of connecting seams, the width of the panel can vary between 15 - 50 cm.

Preparation for work

As already mentioned, especially careful preparation of the walls before installation work is not required. But it is necessary to measure the surfaces to be sheathed with maximum accuracy and correctly calculate the amount of material for their sheathing.

In addition, you will need to decide how the installation will be carried out - if the walls and ceiling in the room turn out to be perfectly even, then they can simply be pasted over with panels. But if the task is to give the room ideal parameters, then you should take care of installing the frame, the main advantage of this option is the ability to give the room an aesthetic appearance by hiding all engineering communications under the surface of the paneling.

When performing work, you will need to use the following tools:

• comfortable stepladder,
• drill or perforator
• hacksaw for metal,
• tape measure and level,
• paint knife,
• hammer,
• self-tapping screws.

It is recommended to save them in advance, otherwise it will not be possible to assemble them accurately and efficiently. Having collected everything you need, you can start marking. For the ceiling, PVC panels with a width of 100 mm are usually used, the so-called. lining. The marking of the lines for mounting the profile should be done every 0.4 m. First, the lowest point on the ceiling is determined, marks corresponding to the width of the panel are made from it. Then, using a level around the perimeter of the room, marks are made at the points where anchors or dowels will be attached with which the frame will be attached to the walls or ceiling.

The supporting frame profiles must be fastened perpendicular to the PVC boards attached to them. To simplify the marking process, experts recommend using a thin cord in addition to marking and leveling. It is rubbed with colored chalk, the ends are pressed against the wall to be marked - a colored trace will remain along its entire length.

How to properly assemble the frame

The quality of the finish will depend on the correct assembly of the frame, which is a connection of profiles. Different materials can be used as a profile:

• wood,
• plastic crate,
• metal.

Naturally, each of them has its own advantages, which determine the rationality of using the material in certain conditions. A wood frame, for example, is recommended to be used in rooms with normal air humidity, if this option is acceptable in a kitchen, then its use in a bathroom or on a balcony is unlikely to be appropriate. In any case, using natural and environmentally friendly wood material, it will be necessary to treat it with a high-quality impregnation that protects against moisture penetration and the development of fungi.

When installing a wooden frame, fastening of the bars is carried out every 0.6 m, with dowels or impact screws. If you want to give the boards the desired level, use a lining. The wooden frame is somewhat inferior in its characteristics to plastic or metal structures.

The use of U-shaped plastic profiles allows you to take advantage of the following advantages:

• low cost,
• light weight,
• ease of fastening work,
• the ability to withstand moisture, steam, temperature extremes.

The installation of the profile is carried out every 0.3 m, respectively, pre-drawn lines. Mounting dowels or self-tapping screws used during installation are installed after 1 m. The profile is joined at an angle, it is necessary to control that the joints are smooth, with well-fitting profile surfaces.

As an advantage, it is possible to note the possibility of using profile grooves for laying an electric cable.

PVC wall panels are lightweight and do not require the construction of a particularly powerful frame. If, nevertheless, it is decided to mount a metal crate, then the cable will have to be laid in special corrugated PVC pipes - this will eliminate the possibility of damage to the power cable braid by the sharp edges of the frame profile.

Basic rules for the installation of plastic profiles and panels

When installing a PVC profile, the following rules should be followed:

• installation should begin after material will pass adaptation to room temperature, especially if it was stored in a room with a temperature below +10 C,
• lamellas should be placed perpendicular to the direction of the frame rails,
• if there is high humidity in the room, then ventilation cuts are made in the frame,
• we should not forget about the need for 5 mm expansion gaps, taking into account the possibility of changing the parameters of the material with increasing temperature,
• installation of panels without a pattern is carried out arbitrarily, if there is a pattern on the surface - work starts from the left corner and moves to the right,
• it is impossible to plan the installation of PVC structures and use them as a finish in rooms with temperatures above +40 C, such as bath or steam rooms.

Installation procedure

ceiling

You can proceed directly to the installation of panels after the completion of the construction of the frame. They begin installation from the extreme strip, it is fixed in the very corner, to the transverse profile using self-tapping screws. Each next panel will be inserted into the groove of the previous one. The procedure will be repeated until the finish reaches the opposite wall. If necessary last panel cut to width. But you can do it in another way: turn the panel so that the mounting lock is on the other side, then cut the groove from the side.

Since the material is brittle, the use of sharp external influences on it can lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface, which cannot be eliminated.

When applying panels during installation, do not apply special efforts to them. If necessary, a clerical knife can be used as an improvised tool, the edges of plastic panels can be directed using its narrow blade.

After completing the installation of the last panel, you can proceed with the installation of the skirting board. For its fastening, liquid nails are used, they are applied to inner part. Then the plinth is pressed tightly against the finished ceiling surface and held for 10 seconds. Residual glue is carefully removed.

Since liquid nails harden very quickly, you should hurry up with the removal of sagging.

wall decoration

Using PVC wall panels for a bathroom or toilet, the owners of a house or apartment get the opportunity to equip a practical and quite cozy interior in the sanitary facilities in a short time. The process of finishing the walls has almost the same technology that is used when installing the ceiling.

A frame made of plastic or a metal profile is mounted on the wall treated with an antifungal primer. The installation of the first panel is carried out by inserting it together with the corner into the profile, the subsequent ones are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones and fixed on the metal rails with the help of clamps. The last panel on the wall is installed in a U-shaped corner and, together with it, is attached to the frame. The next step is to install the corners.

Some difficulties may arise when performing installation work on the walls where you need to install switches and sockets. Before installing the finishing plates in this case, install the ducts and lay the electrical cable. When mounting the panels, it will be necessary to cut holes of the appropriate size in the marked places for the installation of sockets.

1. When buying PVC boards, you should make sure that there are no curved transverse stripes on them, the color of the material should be uniform, and no physical flaws should be observed on the surface. It is good if the surface of the panels is protected by a special film.
2. The purchased panels must have the same shade or solid pattern, they should not have areas with a blurry pattern or poor-quality painting.
3. You should make sure that there are a sufficient number of stiffening ribs inside the panel - a large number of them can provide material strength and resistance to pressure loads.
4. When attempting to connect the panels, gaps should not form, the surface at the junction should look like a monolith.
5. You should not purchase materials that, when joined, give a different opening - at one end of the seam it can be 1 mm, at the other - up to 4 mm.
6. Refrain from buying panels on the surface of which there are waves and stiffeners are visible - this is evidence of poor quality.
7. It is not recommended to buy additional material from another batch, even if the article matches.

Very effective method in a short time and without dirt, decorate the walls of hallways, kitchens, bathrooms or loggias with finishing panels (Fig. 117). There are three types of such panels:

• Type-setting rack panels, outwardly resembling a lining, are attached to the crate or directly to the wall with clamps (fastening brackets), have a length of up to 3000, a width of up to 300, a thickness of 8 to 25 mm. The panels are connected to each other by inserting a spike into the groove, depending on the shape, they form a seamless or seam coating.
• Square tile panels. Attached in the same way as rack. From these panels you can lay out a pattern on the wall. Dimensions of tile panels: from 300×300 to 980×980 mm.
• Sheet panels. They look like a large piece of hardboard, only with a pattern. Sheets are attached to the wall or crate with nails and / or glue. Joints are sealed with sealant or covered with plastic slats. These panels are much larger than the type-setting ones (their dimensions are mainly 1220 × 2440 mm, and the thickness is from 3 to 6 mm).

Rice. 117. Facing the loggia with PVC panels

Before starting work to acclimatize PVC panels, they must be kept for several days in the room where they will be installed. During this time, they will acquire dimensions characteristic of a given air temperature and the likelihood of gaps between the slats will decrease. PVC panels have a coefficient of thermal expansion fourteen times higher than that of steel, with a change in temperature from -10 to +40 ° C, they lengthen - up to 9 mm on a three-meter rail. The expansion of PVC panels in width is not so significant, since the width of the rail does not exceed 300 mm, but still it is. Therefore, you should be aware that using these panels in kitchens, bathrooms, and especially on loggias, with a significant decrease in air temperature, cracks will appear on the wall, which will disappear when the temperature rises. Ideally, these rails should be mounted at a temperature slightly lower than the one at which they will be operated, then after acclimatization the plastic will stretch and clog the cracks so that the wall will be a monolith.

MDF panels do not expand much with temperature, but they have another drawback: some of them have low moisture resistance. It should be noted that MDF panels are made not only in the form of thin, cardboard-like sheets, which we used to call hardboard, but also in the form of thick (16 mm) dense sheets that look like solid wood. Wall panels based on chipboard can only be used in dry rooms, and fiberboard in moderately damp rooms. Before starting work on lining the ceiling, MDF panels, like PVC panels, must be kept in the room where they will be installed for several days. Exposure is needed to equalize the humidity of the panel material with the humidity of the air in the room.

PVC and MDF panels are mounted according to the same scheme

1. Surface preparation.

For panels mounted on a wooden or plastic crate, there is no need to pre-prepare the wall. Unless to "treat" the cracks.

For panels glued to the underlying base, clean the old wall paint. Clear the entire wall old paint no need. Clean only those parts of the wall where the paint or whitewash has peeled off. Modern adhesives for PVC panels penetrate old paint and adhere to the "body" of the wall. To check the bearing base for gluing, do a test using adhesive tape. Glue a piece of adhesive tape to the wall and tear off sharply, if it does not remove the old paint, then the base is suitable for adhesive mounting of panels. If the old paint comes off along with the adhesive tape, the wall needs to be cleaned or a crate made on it.

2. Installation of the crate.

Rice. 118. Installation of the crate for the installation of wall panels

The crate is attached perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels (Fig. 118). Lathing material - dry wooden blocks 40 × 25 mm or finished PVC profiles (Fig. 119).

Rice. 119. PVC slat

First, two slats are installed at the top and bottom of the wall according to the level or plumb, then two cords are pulled between them along the edges (for large sizes, three cords, two at the edges, one in the middle) and all other intermediate slats are set along them. To align the bars of the crate “into the plane”, linings made of wood, fiberboard or plywood are installed under them. The installation step of the intermediate gratings should be 500-600 mm or less so that the wall panels do not sag strongly from hand pressure.

3. Frame installation.

Rice. 120. Assortment of PVC panels and additional elements for them

For the installation of wall panels, special additional elements made of PVC profiles (Fig. 120) are used, with which you can clad a wall of almost any complexity. First, corner profiles are mounted on the wall to the lathing bars (or directly on the wall base with adhesive installation). Accordingly, on the inner corners of the walls - internal, and on the outer - external corner profiles. Skirting profiles or, as they are also called, moldings are installed under the ceiling and on the floor. If the ceiling of the room will be finished with the same wall panels, then an internal corner profile is mounted under the ceiling. Corner profiles can be replaced with J-profiles. When joining panels along the length, H-profiles are used.

All additional elements are attached to the wall or crate in the same way as wall panels.

If you forgot to buy these additional elements, then you can install the panels without them. The joints are then closed by gluing over the panels of the universal corner, or by attaching a skirting board for floors of a suitable color.

4. Installation of panels.

The panels are cut with a fine-toothed saw (for example, a hacksaw). Cross cutting of the panel should be started from the thickened part, where the "thorn" is located. Longitudinal cutting of panels is more convenient to do with a knife along the guide rail. In this case, PVC panels can be cut first from one side, then from the other side. Thin MDF panels - cut with a knife and break off, thick - it is better to cut with a hacksaw, jigsaw or circular saw.

Along the length of the PVC panel, it is necessary to cut smaller sizes than the wall requires, retreating from the edges by 4–5 mm. This gap must be left when introducing them into the receiving groove of the J-profile or molding. With thermal expansion, the gaps will compensate for the elongation of the panel, that is, with an increase in the air temperature in the room, the panel will lengthen, but at the same time it will not rest against the bottom of the receiving gutters of the framing profiles and will not warp (Fig. 121).

Rice. 121. Installation of PVC wall panels with various frame profiles

The gap size of 4-5 mm is valid only for full-size panels. If the panel is shortened, then the gaps can be reduced according to the amount of trim. For example, when cutting a panel in half, the gaps can be reduced to 2–3 mm.

Provide for gaps even if you decide to postpone the finishing of the corners for “later” and cover them with a universal corner. In this version of the cladding, a gap is left between the end of the panel and the ceiling (floor). Gaps are also left during the installation of MDF panels, although they are not so prone to thermal expansion, but they can change their dimensions (swell) with excessive moisture.

The first panel is inserted into J-profiles (moldings or internal corners) with three sides: two ends and the side where the panel has a spike. It is desirable to cut the spike. The fourth side with the groove remains free and is attached to the crate. The second and subsequent panels are joined “thorn in the groove” and fastened with the side with the groove to the crate.

The last panel is cut to width, and it is shortened from the ends by about 5 mm. Then it slides all the way into the receiving chute of the J-profile (molding or corner profile) and joins into the groove with the penultimate panel. When the second end of the panel will not interfere with the shelf of the second J-profile, it is shifted into reverse side. When joining panels along the length, or when changing the direction of installation of panels from longitudinal to transverse, an H-profile is used, a special lath is installed under it.

Rice. 122. Options for fastening wall panels and additional profiles

There are several ways to fasten panels (Fig. 122):

• Adhesive to the underlying surface of the wall. If the wall is sufficiently even, then glue for PVC (MDF) is applied to the cladding panel and it is simply glued. Glue is applied to the entire back side of the panel in zigzag stripes. The adhesive is sufficiently elastic and does not prevent the thermal expansion of the panels;
• On glue to the leveling crate. Glue is applied to the panel only in places where it fits to the crate. The bonding area in this case is small, so additional mechanical fastening is recommended;
• Direct mechanical fastening of the panel to the crate with stapler staples, nails or self-tapping screws. The method is quite simple and reliable, but has a significant drawback, the fastening prevents thermal elongation of the panels. Recommended only for rooms with a stable temperature and humidity conditions. In rooms with sharp temperature changes, for example, on a loggia, panels may warp;
• Mechanical fastening of the cladding to the wooden crate with clamps. This method of connection does not prevent thermal elongation of the panels. Clamps are attached to the crate with nails, staples or self-tapping screws (if the heads do not interfere with the fastening of the next panel);
• Mechanical fastening with clamps (sometimes called clips) to a plastic crate. The most progressive type of fastening. The panels do not perforate, fastening does not interfere with thermal elongation, and no tools are required during installation, the lining is simply fastened to the crate. If necessary, the lining can be dismantled and installed in another place.

5. End.

If you initially used framing profiles, then you just have to wipe the installed panels with a cloth. To prevent the panels from attracting dust to relieve static stress, it is recommended to treat the surface of the panels with an antistatic agent.

If the panels were mounted without framing profiles, then the junction corners are closed with universal corners. The corners are glued to the cladding with appropriate adhesives, for example, Liquid Nails or Moment Mounting adhesives for MDF and PVC.

During operation, it is necessary to protect the panels from impacts and damage with sharp objects. When caring for the panels, you can use a soft cloth or sponge. Do not use abrasive or caustic cleaners.

Wall decoration with MDF panels has recently become more and more popular, due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, the installation of the panels will not take much time, since you do not have to wait for the drying of numerous layers, as, for example, in the case of plastering works. It also plays into the hands that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called quite affordable price on him.

Do-it-yourself MDF wall mounting panels, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare surfaces and pay special attention to accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation "MDF" stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is made, including wall panels. MDF production consists in the process of dry pressing of a finely dispersed mass of sawdust and shavings, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, carbamide resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde, chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration premises. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have more low price than the last one.

Installation of wall MDF panels can be carried out in two ways - fixing them to the frame crate or fixing them to the wall surface using adhesive composition type "liquid nails". This adhesive is used not only for the installation of wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, as it contains sawdust filler. If the filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible sections of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected by color so that the patched sections do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various breeds wood or stone, so they can be chosen for the design of any interior. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades of them alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

Panels are produced different lengths and width, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to consider what effect you need to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To work comfortably, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, from the tools you will need:

• Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
• Building level and plumb.
• Tape measure, metal ruler and building corner, a simple pencil or marker.
• Electric drill, screwdriver or even a regular screwdriver.
• Construction stapler.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

The main methods of mounting MDF panels and the materials necessary for this

For the installation of MDF, certain auxiliary materials will be required. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Mounting panels on walls can be done in two ways:

• Kleev.
• Wireframe.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation, the main condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels are to be glued to the surface, then it must first be leveled with drywall or plaster-putty method.

To mount the panels on glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is the “liquid nails” composition and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall with MDF paneling, while hiding communications behind it or conducting insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for the installation of panels can be made of wooden beam or metal profile. It must be said that mounting MDF is easier to carry out on wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When mounting panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will not be possible to do without.

When using a frame, a gap inevitably forms between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” to mold and fungus. Therefore, before installing the crate, it is imperative to audit the wall. If it is wet, then it will need to be dried first, and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. For external thin walls nevertheless, it is better not to install such a cladding at all, since it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the cladding panels on the frame, the following materials will be required:

• A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15 × 30, 20 × 30, 20 × 40 or 20 × 50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as used when installing drywall.
• Insulation material - foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
• Metal straight hangers that will help to set the guides exactly in one plane.

• Kleimers for fixing panels on the frame.

• Small nails or staples for the stapler.
• Dowels for attaching brackets (suspensions) or direct rails to the wall.
• Wood screws.
• Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal junction of planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon, and then try to eliminate it. It is impossible to close a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles for the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

• Wall cleaning.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then they must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality pasted wallpapers, which are difficult to remove, must first be soaked with water or steamed with an iron, and then cleaned with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special formulations for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or qualitatively painted water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

• Wall processing.

In the event that mold spots are present on the wall, then the surface must be “treated” - treated with a special “Anti-mold” composition or with the usual concentrated bleaching agent “Whiteness”. Before processing, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment should be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus to the ground, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and process the main wall itself well.

"Treatment" of the affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with the mandatory safety measures, in a respirator or in a special mask, in order to avoid inhalation of particles of plaster affected by the fungus.

• Closing cracks.

If, after removing the wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning the placement of heat and sound insulating materials under the MDF panels. Cracks must be repaired so that they do not become cold bridges, as well as a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or the same mold can find shelter.

Cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster mortar to hold well in the gap of the crack, it needs to be slightly expanded and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of the old plaster and processed with a brush.

… and then densely filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its full depth.

• Surface primer.

The next step is to prime the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the emergence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If it is planned to sheathe wooden walls, then it is recommended to choose a primer, which includes not only antiseptics, but also flame retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of wood.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller in two to three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

• Installation of insulating material.

Further, in the event that the panels will be attached to the crate, you can proceed to gluing the insulation material. For this purpose, "penofol", which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited.

The most convenient in work - "penofol" on a self-adhesive basis

Today, you can find self-adhesive "penofol" on sale - it can be very easily fixed on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material was not found, then the usual "penofol" is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to the Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. Cloths of "penofol" are pressed against the surface, and with the help of a rubber spatula, air is expelled from under it.

Gluing the joints of adjacent strips of "penofol" with adhesive tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are glued with special foil tape.

Frame structure installation

Carrying out markup

If it is decided to mount MDF panels on the frame, then first you need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the batten guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide rails are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The step between the railing guides is usually chosen within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly even.

To find the perfect vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which straight lines are beaten off on the wall. If the lines are beaten off on a foil surface, then immediately after the beating, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal, I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will give a laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use the usual construction one, expelling the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

According to the markup, it will be quite easy to correctly fix the guide battens.

When marking, it must be taken into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the rest of the elements, maintaining the set step.

wooden frame

Wooden bars, despite the marking lines, when installed on the wall, are still checked by the building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled right through the bars, into which plastic dowels are hammered, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fasteners are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the thickness of the wall by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm, and the thickness of the crate beam is added to this parameter, given that the screw head is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the racks of the crate to the same level if the wall requires alignment with the crate, and the bars themselves will have to be fixed to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

Hangers are first fixed to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a step between adjacent ones at 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. Hanger shelves are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then, two extreme beams on the wall are installed, aligned in level and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed extreme guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords from above and below (or to the right and left - with a horizontal orientation of the frame) - this will become the reference lines (beacons) for correct installation other guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared in size are fixed on the wall according to the same principle as wooden bars, but sometimes liners are made of timber for structural rigidity. To fix the profile, suspensions are necessarily used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit close to it.

If the frame is mounted on wooden wall, then the hangers for fastening the railing rails are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on a different base of the wall is necessary, then it is best to fix the suspensions with driven dowels-nails.

If the finish is fixed on a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the lining will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame

Before starting the installation of the cladding under the frame, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and fixed, immediately determining the installation locations for sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked with a tape measure and a building corner, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using an electric jigsaw, a manual vertical circular or even a conventional hacksaw.

• The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is reached, otherwise the entire cladding will go further skewed.
• The launch panel is installed with a spike in the corner and fixed to the guides from the side of the corner in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the points of its intersection with the railing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to wooden frame. When using a metal frame, the fixation of the clamps is carried out with small self-tapping screws with a low head, so that after it is completely screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

• To begin with, the spike of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this docking edge is already fixed. Mandatory adjustment of the panel according to the level is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows a certain backlash. After precise exposure, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
• So continue facing to the end of the wall (or to the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut in its thickness so that it freely enters the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, right through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and at the end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from the floor to the ceiling, and the first canvas must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the crate takes place exactly according to the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

• In the panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed, a round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket (usually 67 mm) is pre-cut. Drilling is carried out using a drill-crown.

The socket must be fixed securely, and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure a hard stop against the wall, it is recommended to additionally fix wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and the switch is screwed onto the facing panels or to the corresponding sockets of the socket.

Mounting MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels on glue than on a crate, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

• To install the first panel, it is necessary to beat off a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how the installation is planned.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be controlled by level.

• Particular attention should be paid to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

- The adhesive must remain flexible enough even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition should be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

- The adhesive must have a thick enough consistency to be able to be applied in a thick or thin layer, as appropriate, and evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option- glue type "liquid nails"

These requirements in terms of the main parameters are precisely met by the composition "Liquid Nails". The primer that the walls are pre-treated with will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will hold securely on it.

• Glue is applied to the back of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first firmly pressed against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to “wind” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After that, already for the final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed in the right place, and held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition is firmly set.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels dotted or "snake"

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then come off. After smearing, attaching and tearing off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second, and so on, until it comes to the last. When installing canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed by the next spike to be installed.

• If the finish is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait for the glue under the lowest fixed panel to dry well - it is necessary to create reliable support for other canvases. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.
• The last panel to be mounted, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, drawn and the excess part is sawn off with a jigsaw. In the corner, the last canvas is screwed to the crate or wall with a self-tapping screw.
• The final elements of the installation are fittings and skirting boards. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes to "liquid nails", covering the heads of the self-tapping screws that fasten the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings (if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued to the same glue, installed on special fasteners or screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. Fixing skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Learn how to produce by reading step by step instructions in an article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with MDF panels

Having become acquainted with technological process installation of MDF panels, it is possible, summing up, to formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to virtues Such a finishing material includes the following qualities:

• Fairly simple installation with the ability to mount the panels both vertically and horizontally.
• A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish for every taste and interior style.
• When mounting MDF panels on a frame crate, you can hide cable communications behind them.
• With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable look and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
• Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
• It is easy to take care of the MDF finish, as it is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a damp soft cloth.
• Finishing MDF wall panels have a very affordable price.

disadvantages such panels can be called the following points:

• With this finish, a perfectly smooth surface is not created, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
• When such a cladding is attached to the crate, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, with insufficient pretreatment or other unfavorable conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans can develop. Very often, especially if walls are sheathed in a private house, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or rodent paths.
• The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
• MDF does not belong to moisture-resistant materials in any way, therefore, if the wall behind the sheathing starts to get damp, the panels may swell and the lining will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. The installation of such a cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, who has absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all the technological recommendations.

And in conclusion - a small "visual aid" in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to mount MDF panels on walls

Plastic sheathing of premises does not provide pre-training walls: leveling, removing old paint or wallpaper, plaster, etc. Paneling is the cleanest, simplest and least time-consuming way to finish a room. One of the main advantages of this finishing material is the relative ease of installation (even a non-professional can cope with this task).

Preparatory assessment and calculation work

Before proceeding with the installation, you need:
- decide on the direction of installation of the panels: vertically, horizontally or under certain angle to a horizontal surface
- to calculate the number of PVC panels and finishing profiles, for this you need to evaluate the surface of the walls on which the panels will be mounted:

• quadrature (needed to calculate the number of panels),
• the presence of corners, joints, openings and non-standard elements in the walls (necessary to calculate the number of finishing profiles).

For the installation of plastic panels, the following types of profiles / moldings may be needed:

Number in the picture	scheme	Description
1		Connecting profile (H-profile)- used to connect panels along the length.
2		Ceiling plinth- most often used to decorate the junction of a wall with a ceiling, it can also be used as a floor plinth.
3		F profile (end molding)- closes the joint of panels with door and window openings, corner joints with other materials.
4		Inner corner- closes the connection of panels in internal corners (90°).
5		outside corner (outer corner)- closes the connection of panels in external corners (90°).
6		universal angle- both external and internal corners can be used., 25x25.
7		Start profile (U-shaped molding)- hides the end (short) sides of the panels during installation, can be used when adjoining panels to door and window openings, niches, etc.
8		Universal laminated corner ТМ Decomax- can be used as a connecting strip, external and internal corners, starting profile. Thanks to lamination, it has a wide range of decors and colors.

Useful advice from TM Decomax: you should buy panels with a small margin, due to the fact that a certain number of panels may be cut, and since the color of the panels may differ slightly from batch to batch, then, subsequently, you may not pick up a panel perfectly in tone with already purchased panels.

Further, it is recommended to assess the condition of the surfaces and determine the method of fastening the panels.(panels are attached to the surface using a special mounting edge. The fasteners should be placed at right angles to the lathing laths to prevent tension in the panels) :

if the surface is even and the room is dry, you can stick the panels directly on the walls(it should be remembered that the use of adhesives requires surface preparation - cleaning, degreasing).

• if the surface has large irregularities, strongly deviates from the vertical (horizontal) and / or high humidity in the room, then the panels are mounted on a crate, which can be of three options: wooden blocks, PVC strips, UD and CD metal profiles.

TO metal sheathing panels are fixed with self-tapping screws.
To PVC sheathing - with glue or staples.
TO wood paneling Panels can be fastened in one of 4 ways: staples using a stapler, nails, self-tapping screws or glue.

Thus, for the installation of panels you will needmaterial:

1. panels (pcs);
2. finishing profiles (linear meters);
3. depending on the type of fastening: glue, staples (should be protected with an anti-corrosion coating), small nails, self-tapping screws, slats (wooden, metal, PVC) for arranging the crate 30x10mm or 30x20mm (for outdoor work), metal profile.

tool:

1. electric drill and drill;
2. manual electric saw with a vulcanite disk;
3. electric screwdriver or screwdriver;
4. building level;
5. plumb;
6. square;
7. hacksaw for wood and metal;
8. metal scissors;
9. furniture stapler (if staples are used);
10. hammer;
11. pliers;
12. straight rail;
13. roulette;
14. chalk, pencil;
15. ladder.

preparatory Finishing work(cladding installation)

These works are necessary in the presence of large irregularities on the surface.

The most important stage of fastening the panels is the installation of the sheathing (battens). It should provide a flat surface. The lathing is fixed perpendicular to the direction of the panels (if the panels are installed vertically, then the slats are placed horizontally and vice versa) with a step of 40-50 cm on the wall, on the ceiling - 30-40 cm (recommended dimensions of the slats - 30x10 cm). To do this, using a tape measure, chalk and a straight rail, the contours of the installation of the skin rails are applied. Further, using an electric drill, a plumb line and a mounting level, the rails are attached to the surfaces to be lined with screws and dowels. In case of uneven walls (ceilings), the crate is leveled with spacers made of wood, plywood, etc.

Sheathing strips must be placed at the beginning and end of the surface to be lined, as well as around openings (doors, windows, vents, etc.). In places where hanging objects are planned to be placed, an additional crate is installed, since the panel can withstand weight up to 1 kg. Thus, objects are attached in addition to the panels to the crate itself. If the panels are to be mounted at an angle to the floor, then it is better to arrange the slats closer to each other, otherwise short panels at the corners of the wall will be difficult to fix.

Helpful advice from TMDecomax: in rooms with high humidity it is better to use for crates metal carcass; if wooden slats are used, then small cuts (channels) should be made in them to ensure air circulation.

The place that has formed between the wall and the crate can be filled insulating material, which will increase thermal insulation and thereby reduce heating costs.

Direct installation of panels (the same for any type of fastening).

First of all, it is necessary to fasten the framing accessories (mounting elements) to the special mounting edge available for each profile: the final element (1) , internal (3) or outer corner (4) , ceiling plinth (2), if the panels close the wall to the ceiling, and floor plinth (6).

After the finishing profiles are mounted, you can proceed with the installation of the panels themselves. Panels begin to be installed from the corner: it is most convenient to move from the left corner to the right or from the corner to the door or window opening.
It is recommended to first calculate the number of panels that will be required to finish the selected section of the wall / ceiling and, if the last panel is too narrow, then you can cut the first panel so that the same distance remains on both sides - this will give the interior a complete, concise look.

The first panel is mounted in the groove of the fastening element with a narrow shelf, for this it is slightly bent, first inserted into the grooves of the initial and final strips, and then into the groove of the outer (inner) corner. Next, you should make sure that this first panel is located perfectly even in relation to the corner of the surface to be finished (you can use a plumb or level) and fix the mounting edge of the panel to the rails (every 30 cm) using one of the selected methods.

After the first panel is installed and fixed, the second and subsequent panels are installed in the same way. Each time, after installing a new panel, it is recommended to check its verticality and fit to the adjacent panel.

When approaching the door (to the window), the panel is trimmed in accordance with the opening, and the cut ends are closed with an end molding or a starting molding.

Each last panel is recommended to be reduced longitudinally by 3-4 mm. to compensate for thermal expansion between panels. First you need to insert the panel into the groove of the fastener, then into the groove of the previous panel. It does not need additional fastening.

If it is necessary to combine colors, then a connecting element is used for joining (5) .

Helpful advice from TMDecomax:

• it is not recommended to install panels at temperatures below 0°C;
• unpack panels and finishing profiles at a temperature not lower than 10°C;
• if the panels and profiles were brought in from the street at temperatures from 0°C to 10°C, then before unpacking they must be kept at room temperature at least 12 hours; if the temperature was below 0 ° C - then at least 48 hours.

Plastic panels (lining) are used for finishing inside houses and apartments. They are actively used to give the desired appearance. various premises, such as balconies, bathrooms, bathtubs, shops, offices. Do-it-yourself installation of PVC wall panels is a simple matter that will be within the power of anyone who has a desire to make repairs on their own.

First of all, you should decide what is hidden behind the abbreviation PVC. There is nothing difficult or scary about this. Under the three letters, a simple one is hidden - polyvinyl chloride, and if even simpler, then this is a type of plastic. It has many advantages that are successfully used in the manufacture of finishing materials.

Wall PVC panels

For greater persuasiveness, it is necessary to list those positive traits, which are available for PVC panels. So:

1. The technical characteristics of this product make it possible to use them in rooms that are exposed to moisture. This material is absolutely not subject to rotting, does not absorb water. The only thing that can reduce the effectiveness of the use of plastic panels is the improper use of the frame.
2. If there are sufficiently flat surfaces, you can not deal with additional wall decoration. Installation of PVC wall panels - does not require much effort and time.
3. They can keep their appearance for a long time. Namely - do not burn out under the influence sunlight, do not absorb various fumes. To clean them, you do not need special tricks - just wash the products with soapy water and wipe dry.
4. If a frame is used, then additional sound insulation is created. This is achieved by an air cushion between the wall and the panels. If desired, this space can be used for additional insulation of the room, as well as for hiding communications.
5. The cost of this material is quite low compared to other types. Do not think that such an attractive price category greatly affects the quality of the product. Naturally, if you purchase panels that have neither factory packaging nor certificates, then you can run into a cheap fake.
6. Long service life. Yes, such lining can serve for many years. The only thing they fear is temperature changes. From this, the panels may become unusable. You should also pay attention to the mechanical impact, which can damage the integrity of the structure.

PVC panels are very popular due to their low price, as well as many other advantages.

It becomes clear that this product can be used in different cases. Of course, it is better to avoid installing panels when making repairs in children's and bedrooms.

Material selection

Any hardware store has a large selection of plastic panels. They can be of various sizes, colors and textures. Modern technologies allow you to get products that can give a certain elegance to any interior.

Plastic panels are a great alternative ceramic tiles for finishing the bathroom, but subject to right choice material

What do you pay attention to when choosing such a material:

• The panels are quite light, but you should immediately be wary if the weight is too small. This may indicate that there is a fake. Unfortunately, this occurs even in large specialized stores.
• There should be no flaws on the front and on the wrong side. Namely, any cracks, chips, color inhomogeneities immediately indicate that the product is of poor quality.
• When choosing PVC panels, you need to pay attention to the release date of different packages. It is better to choose those that have the same marking. Otherwise, significant variation may occur.

On a note! When choosing PVC products, you should not hesitate to ask the seller for all the necessary documents. This is a guarantee of safety and a long service life of the material.

Various ways of mounting wall panels

To carry out work on the repair or decoration of the premises with PVC plastic panels, there are two main options.

1. Mounting the frame.

This is the easiest option. For its implementation, various materials. The following can be distinguished:

• Wooden bar. Great for many environments, but cannot be used in areas with high humidity.
• Plastic slats. These are specially designed products that allow you to quickly mount the panels.
• Metallic profile. The same option is used that allows you to install GKL sheets. But this way quite expensive, although very reliable. Best for ceiling.

2. Installation of panels without crates.

Mounting panels directly on the wall

This method requires some skill and fairly even walls. But, if you understand how this process occurs, then the skills come quickly enough. There is a significant drawback - if one of the elements becomes unusable, then the entire wall will have to be broken.

Each of the options is selected individually. It is necessary to take into account the size of the room, its shortcomings and climatic features.

VIDEO: How to properly fix PVC panels on a wall without a crate

Preparation stage

It is produced using a common tool that can be found in almost every home owner.

You will need the following:

• roulette and level;
• pencil and meter ruler;
• drills and screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws (nails) and dowels;
• stapler;
• jigsaw (saw).

Do not forget that consumables will also be needed. First of all, these are drills, bits, nail files and staples. It is better to prepare everything in advance, then the repair time will be significantly reduced.

Do-it-yourself installation of wall panels should not be carried out immediately after purchase, you need to give time for them to adapt to the conditions of the room. To do this, they are unpacked and allowed to mature. It is better to take a day for this.

On a note! If, during the repair, the installation of plastic panels is planned without using a frame, then the surface is first primed. To do this, use solutions that are selected based on the material of the walls.

Making a frame

As already noted, the crate can be of several types. In principle, they are all similar in their installation conditions. The installed frame allows you to correct significant irregularities and imperfections in the walls. And also create an additional layer of thermal insulation and hide numerous communications.

On a note! It should be borne in mind that the distance between the guides should be from 30 to 45 cm.

Installation of plastic elements

After installing the frame, you can proceed with the installation facing products. Do-it-yourself installation of PVC panels is carried out according to the following scheme (let's consider the example of a wooden frame):

VIDEO: Installation of panels on the crate

Installing wall panels on the frame is easy. In the absence of a crate, everything is done with glue, which is applied to the finishing element. The main thing is to do everything quickly and not to forget that it will be extremely difficult to correct the shortcomings.