The main points in working with drywall. Secrets and nuances Working with drywall do-it-yourself walls

This sheet material is currently the most popular for facing internal partitions, and the installation of a plasterboard wall is the most simple and productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

Room layout

The first step before starting construction works, is the layout of the room. If a decision is made to perform the installation of drywall for surface finishing, some points should be taken into account.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. At the same time, almost every size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and maximize the effective cutting of material, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken as 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Similarly, the width of the premises is desirable as a multiple of an integer number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then cutting the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to a deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the crate and the selection of materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties laid down by the developers in such building materials, the GKL is divided into the following types:

ordinary drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within the normal range. It is widely used because of the convenience in operation, good machinability, light weight and economy;
GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and other non-residential premises. Can be used near heaters, stoves and fireplaces;
moisture-resistant drywall, allowing its use in rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, bathrooms and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses where humidity is usually higher than in city apartments;
fire - moisture resistant material, which is almost universal.

According to the purpose, drywalls are divided into the following categories:

arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of a fibrous structure;
ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
wall - for wall decoration and installation of partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Drywall tool

The material does not have high mechanical properties and is easily processed with a simple tool. In this case, you can use the following tool:

saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose - sawing drywall sheets into parts during installation;
circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
electric jigsaw - sawing parts of complex shape according to the markup;
construction knife - trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
construction plumb line - control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
carpentry level - the same;
electric drill - drilling holes for fasteners;
screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing drywall parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
paint brush - for applying a primer;
foam roller - for the same purpose;
nozzle on a drill for stirring dry mixtures;
sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
mixing container.

This is the main set of tools with which alignment, priming, and decorative trim drywall walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
acrylic putty - repair and preparation of the surface of gypsum boards for the application of the main leveling layer;
tape - fiberglass sickle;
drywall fasteners - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
insulation for laying under sheets of drywall during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
GKL of various sizes, including a thickness of 6.5 mm - for creating spatial forms of parts; 9.5 mm thick - for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for flooring with a dry screed.

Assembling a wall from plasterboard

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is not an idle question. With the seeming benefit of using wood, here the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

the need for antiseptic treatment of each part, which will help get rid of the risk of developing rot or fungal diseases. Fire treatment, especially if inside the frame will be laid concealed wiring which happens most often. In addition to working off wood, electrical installation must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
careful selection of material on the basis of straightness and absence of helical deformations;
change in the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity regime in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, resulting in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also a large amount of time.

All these shortcomings are devoid of metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several of their types are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

Ceiling profiles, referred to as CD, with dimensions cross section 60 x 27mm.
Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
Rack, UD - 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
Guide profiles with dimensions 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of the profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

As auxiliary parts, U-shaped straight hangers are produced for connecting ceiling and CD profiles.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

The metal profile frame for the wall begins with marking its location. It is made on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line and a paint cord, which will ensure the strict verticality of the structure.

The installation of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, while using profiles UW guides and rack CW.

The fastening of the base parts must be carried out in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the drywall sheet are a multiple of 600 mm, so the racks are set, focusing on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

on one side of the frame, you need to stretch the vapor barrier film, for which a polyethylene film with a thickness of about 200 microns is used. It is pulled over the frame and fixed with construction tape;
you need to understand how to fix a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows, without destroying the surface of the coating, to fix the sheet flush.
in a similar way, install the remaining parts of the wall sheathing on one side, making a cutout under the doorway;
the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which simultaneously acts as a soundproof device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose are used various materials, both slab (min-slab) and rolled, such as isover, an insulation device of more than 2 layers will entail the need for a three-dimensional frame. Wall insulation and soundproofing device will allow living to be quite comfortable;
before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, acting in the same way as for the first side;
drywall sheets are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out with a step of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting of galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a broom saw. The use of a manual grinder burns out the protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end face must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% consisting of finely dispersed metallic zinc.

Alignment of walls with drywall

Often, during construction or repair, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using GKL than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when drywall is attached to the wall on the profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install the floor and ceiling guides. Then the installation of racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, a smooth wall is obtained and it remains only to prepare its surface for applying the finishing coating.

There is a way to level the wall with drywall without a frame. It should be noted that the surface quality of the base must be sufficiently high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you need to carefully remove all protrusions that may interfere with this. Installation technology can be as follows:

attach a piece of plasterboard to the wall and drill mounting holes. At the same time, traces from the drill will remain on the base surface, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
remove the part and drill holes for installing plastic inserts using these marks;
apply a cement or gypsum-based adhesive to the wall, level with a comb trowel. You can also use polyurethane glue;
install the part in place, fix it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to the wall, you can easily cope with the rest of the coating elements.

Surface putty

For the final preparation of the plane of the walls for the finishing coating, its finishing with putty is used. It is done like this:

primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle;
applying the primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
finishing the surface with the finishing composition of the putty, drying, grinding;
thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a drywall wall, any developer can handle this task on their own. It is only necessary to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited experts will perform this work at a price of 600 to 800 rubles per square meter. However, in any case - good luck to you!

Work with drywall can be done without the intervention of professional builders. More often to independent decision construction tasks are resorted to by the owners of a private house. After all, repairs in such a house are impressive and cost a pretty penny. And not hiring workers will save money.

The technology for handling drywall sheets (GKL) is different. It depends on the conditions of the room and the features of the object being built. Repair with wall alignment has two options for the development of events. In the first case, the sheet sits on the adhesive, which fixes the drywall against the wall. In the second case, the manipulations look more complicated, you will need the construction of a special frame.

Frame base

More often, the frame method is resorted to if it is not necessary to level the walls, but to form a decorative partition, since the construction of the frame steals useful centimeters in the house.

The ceiling is also sheathed with plasterboard. With the help of the material complex structures are made. The result is a renovation with a unique design execution.

Home renovation starts with planning. If the alignment of the wall is supposed, here you can do without drawings and complex calculations. Only the calculation of materials is required. A multi-level ceiling will require considerable effort, so it is recommended to carefully consider each design element, mounting methods, structure structure and processing materials.

When choosing materials, you should immediately consider the characteristics of drywall and make a choice.

On the market there are sheets of the following types:

Standard - option for simple species works (GKL);
Moisture resistant - for rooms with a high humidity index (bathroom, kitchen), marked as GKLV;
Fireproof - for rooms requiring a special approach to fire protection(GKLO);
Universal - the material combines the properties of a refractory and moisture resistant sheet (GKLVO).

Drywall assortment

What is useful in work

Working with drywall includes the need to build a frame. The metal profile forms a “skeleton”, which is subsequently sheathed with sheets. To start the repair, you need to stock up on guides / racks in the required quantity.

The list should include:

CD - main element (60x30 mm);
UD - auxiliary product (30x30 mm);
UW and CW are additional rack and rail elements that are necessary if the repair includes the construction of a partition.

In addition, you should get:

Self-tapping screws for drywall;
reinforcing tape;
Dowels to fasten to walls and ceilings;
thermal insulating material;
Gypsum putty;
Primer;
Dry adhesive composition(if the repair assumes that the walls and ceiling in the house are aligned with the adhesive method of fixing the GKL);
Sealing tape;
Direct hangers.

Read also: - stages of work with photos and videos, the choice of material and its properties

Features of wall alignment

The walls in the house are the main objects that affect any repair. They need preparation before proceeding to the direct construction of the frame.

The preparatory technology step by step looks like this:

The walls are cleaned of pieces of plaster that has peeled off.
The surface is covered with a primer.
An antiseptic composition is applied.
Vertical markings are being applied for the installation of racks.

Mounting racks

Racks in the frame are best placed in increments of 60 cm or 40 cm. These indicators are considered optimal when working with 120 cm drywall sheets.

Frame erection

Sticking tape to the guide profiles to reduce noise (the side with which the element is attached to the floor, ceiling or walls is pasted over).
Installation of guide profiles on the ceiling and floor for further installation of racks (it is better to use dowels).
Checking installed components for accuracy of location in one vertical plane (a plumb bob is used).
Installation of racks inside the guides and fixation with a cutter or self-tapping screws.
Fixing racks with straight hangers and dowels.
Fastening the racks to the hangers with self-tapping screws (for additional rigidity).
Bending of protrusions on suspensions.

Finished crate against the wall

Laying wiring for organizing a communication system.
Warming the wall of the house with mineral wool.

The insulation material must be insulated with a vapor barrier membrane. You will need double-sided tape to attach to the frame.

After that, the frame is sheathed with drywall. Installation is made from below. Depending on the height of the ceiling, finishing the frame requires manipulation of the material. This is where drywall technology comes in handy.

Work with drywall sheets

Regardless of what will be sheathed with drywall - walls or ceilings, repairs in the house are done according to the rules. Even if it concerns seemingly insignificant nuances at first glance.

The first thing the builder faces is cutting the material. Sheets are unpretentious in this regard, but a trick is applied here. After marking on the surface of the material, a sharp clerical knife is carried out along the notch line. By fixing one half of the GKL and pressing on the other, you can easily break the material along the incision made.

Material cutting instructions

A ceiling with a complex structure / decorative partition sometimes requires the implementation of curly elements. For these purposes, it is better to use electric jigsaw. This tool cuts precise and controlled details by the master.

The electric jigsaw is set to the operating mode with the maximum number of revolutions. Appropriate markings are preliminarily applied to the sheet. The material is laid on a surface convenient for work. The sheet is fixed with one hand, and the second is cut with a jigsaw. The tool is pressed tightly against the GKL.

If figured decor is required

A figured ceiling or a plasterboard niche will be an excellent interior decoration. Such objects cannot do without the use of special technologies for working with the material. In some cases, to achieve the desired shape, the GKL will need to be bent. Sheet capabilities allow you to perform such procedures. Moreover, there are several ways to bend the product at once.

The dry processing method involves cutting the sheet with a clerical knife. All lines must be parallel to each other. The cutting depth is no more than 0.6 cm. This will allow you to bend the sheet, but not cut it completely.

The more notches are made, the larger the radius of curvature will eventually be. In other words, frequent lines will allow you to strongly bend the sheet. More rare incisions will limit the fold line somewhat.

Material bend pattern

Working with drywall in a wet way is carried out by soaking the material. Water is applied to the sheet, it should be cold. After that, using a spiked roller, the entire surface is treated. If there is no such tool at hand, use a fork moistened with water. The result will be small holes that will allow you to bend the product. This must be done carefully.

There is a more gentle way. It lies in the fact that the sheet is wetted and laid on the surface so that its edges hang down. In a few days, the material itself will bend under its own weight.

The review below discusses the specifics of working with drywall when building a partition:

GKL as a skin can be attached to a metal or wooden frame. The latter is rarely used, so it is not taken into account. Hardened screws are used for fastening. The recommended size of the fasteners is 3-3.5 cm. The sheet is applied to the frame base and tacked with self-tapping screws, the fasteners fall exactly in the middle of the profile. So that further surface treatment does not cause problems, the head of the screws is recessed to a depth of 0.1-0.2 cm.

Fixation step - 100-150 mm. Sheets are placed end-to-end with a minimum allowable gap of 2-3 millimeters. After that, the seams are filled with putty. The primer is pre-applied. When it dries, grooves are cut out at the joints of the sheets, a sickle tape is applied and a layer of putty is applied.

It remains to wait until it dries, primed and apply putty again. This time the layer will be the final one. The result is rubbed with sandpaper to eliminate irregularities.

In contact with

Drywall (GKL) is one of the most popular materials for interior decoration. It costs relatively inexpensively, lasts long enough, and is mounted easily and relatively simply. The front surface of drywall sheets serves as a reliable basis for finishing with plaster, wallpaper, ceramic tiles etc. It should also be noted the bearing capacity of drywall structures: with proper arrangement and fixing of profiles and sheets, they are able to withstand the weight wooden furniture or even plumbers. The main advantage of drywall is ease of processing and installation. However, in order for the work to be done efficiently, on time and with the least consumption of material, you should carefully study its properties and choose the most convenient installation method.

What is GKL

The basis of drywall is gypsum dough, which, depending on the purpose of the sheet material, is reinforced with various components. The front and back surfaces of the gypsum sheet are covered with special construction cardboard, protected from moisture, temperature and mechanical damage. With a sufficiently high sheet rigidity, gypsum board is a fragile material, so it is recommended to work with it at least two people, even when it comes to finishing small areas.

It is necessary to protect drywall sheets from unnecessary loads and store them horizontally, in extreme cases in vertical position.

Key features of working with drywall

It is necessary to cut drywall from the back side, under the ruler and with a very sharp knife. The effort should be sufficient, but no more - in the end, you only need to cut cardboard. After cutting, the sheet is laid horizontally and broken along the line. Next, you need to cut off the cardboard on the other side of the sheet. To do this, the latter is bent inward, and the incision is made from the bottom up in one smooth and uniform movement. If everything was done correctly, the cut will be neat and accurate.

For wall decoration, it is recommended to use 12 mm thick plasterboard, and a thinner sheet is suitable for a suspended ceiling. In practice, the choice of material is based on the complexity and volume of the structure, as well as the presence of areas with non-standard shapes and geometry. The reliability and durability of the structure directly depends on how well the loads on the frame and sheet material were calculated. On average, a standard plasterboard wall, with the correct arrangement and fixation of the profiles, can withstand a weight of about 50 kg. In this case, it is necessary to take into account both vertical and horizontal loads on drywall - reinforcing profiles are set in these directions.

When working with drywall one way or another, you will have to use a ladder and mini-forests, as well as different tool. All drywall sheet 1200x2500 m is about 30 kg, so you should not lift it alone and even more so transfer it. And, it goes without saying, always keep safety in mind.

Nuances when mounting on metal profiles

If the walls and ceiling in the room are uneven, and the owner is ready to sacrifice the useful volume, the best option GKL will be installed on the profile structure. It is made of special metal profiles, which are fastened together by means of crab-type bolts. When creating a structure, other metal elements are also used - suspensions, extensions, clamps, frame fasteners, etc. Their list and number is determined by the geometric and functional characteristics of the frame installed in a particular room.

During the installation of the structure, it must be remembered that the corners in the rooms are not always straight. However, a right angle must be observed, and this leads to a complication of the frame.

To perform work on the installation and sheathing of the structure for drywall, you will need:

ruler level;
tubular hydraulic level;
tape measure, pencil, notepad;
screwdriver;
wire cutters;
tool for bending and cutting metal;

At the initial stage of installation work, marking is carried out, in accordance with which the installation of profiles under the GKL will be carried out. The joint line of drywall sheets should run in the center of the front of the guide profile. The latter is set in increments of 40, less often 60 cm, in accordance with the standard width of the sheet material.

After marking the points along the length or width of the room at which the profile guides will be installed, suspensions are mounted on the ceiling plane along the line of each of them with a step of 40 - 80 cm. And already to them, while without a level, guides are temporarily fixed. After that, the transverse and reinforcing profiles should be dealt with in the same way.

Installation of plasterboard on glue

Working with a metal profile structure for drywall is not easy, but it is far from always needed. In some cases, it is advisable to mount the GKL on special glue:

If necessary, leveling walls or ceilings with large potholes or bumps.
When sealing doors and window slopes after the installation of window or door frames, as well as during the repair or reconstruction of premises.
When finishing geometrically complex areas, incl. with uneven base

The main advantage of installing drywall on glue is reliability. On such a wall, you can safely hang quite heavy furniture or attach various interior elements to it. It should also be noted that the adhesive fills the voids well, which ultimately has a positive effect on the sound and thermal insulation parameters of the structure. On the other hand, from the moment of gluing until the very drying of the adhesive solution, a tight fixation is necessary, which is far from always easy.

To prepare the glue you will need:

dry adhesive mixture;
a container for preparing a solution;
drill with mixer;
water.

In order to save money, a mixture of starting putty and PVA building glue is often used as an adhesive mixture. However, with high requirements for reliability, such an adhesive is not recommended, since there is a high probability of taking the wrong proportions, which will negatively affect the characteristics of the entire structure.

When the adhesive mass reaches a homogeneous, thick enough consistency for work, it is applied to the back side of the GKL, after which the sheet is installed in the position allotted for it and pressed down by force. In this case, it is necessary to observe the horizontal and vertical level, as well as linearity, if several sheets of drywall are installed one by one.

In some cases, gypsum boards can be mounted directly on the main wall using conventional dowels and without the use of glue or a metal frame.

Errors when working with drywall

In any type of construction work, it is important to strictly follow the technology. It is the latter that guarantees the quality and durability of the result of construction or repair. Unfortunately, quite often inexperienced craftsmen make serious mistakes when working with drywall, which ultimately lead to the most disastrous consequences. What exactly should be avoided when creating plasterboard structures in the interior?

Violation of the installation technology of the profile structure

Perhaps the most common mistake when installing a frame for drywall is the inconsistency of the profiles used with their purpose. You cannot mount DC profiles instead of UW type profiles, etc. The same applies to fasteners and any other structural elements. Also, during installation, it is necessary to carefully monitor the quality of fastening of guides, transverse and, in particular, reinforcing profiles.

Application of unforeseen profile cutting technologies

When installing the frame for drywall, the length of the metal profiles used will have to be adjusted one way or another. In no case should this be done with a circular electric saw. At a high speed of rotation of the cutting disc, the profile will heat up and galvanization will burn out at the place of the cut. In the future, this area will be subject to corrosion, which may eventually lead to weakening and even destruction of the structure.

Profile wall extension

When the walls of the metal profile are unbent, its bearing capacity decreases, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the structure during sheathing or, much worse, after completion finishing works.

Installation of plasterboard with the back side out

The biggest mistake when creating drywall structures is to use the back of the sheet instead of the front. If the GKL is wall, this will lead to unevenness and mismatch of the edges at the junction of adjacent sheets. In the case of moisture-resistant drywall, the front part, which is specially protected from moisture and temperature extremes, will not be able to perform its functions, which will lead to swelling of the gypsum and the inevitable destruction of the structure in the future.

Refusal of suspensions and intentional weakening of the frame

When finishing complex surfaces, it is often difficult to fix the profile system. It is very important to understand that with the weight of one standard sheet of 30 kg and insufficiently reliable installation of the frame, the latter will not withstand soon enough. This can happen literally after finishing the drywall, that is, with the addition of additional weight of finishing materials.

Breaking the wireframe

If the step of the profiles is chaotic, with too wide or, conversely, too narrow indents from the walls and from each other, this will cause serious problems during installation and further operation of the structure. The latter can simply sag, and crack drywall, which is unacceptable. In addition, you will need to do more work, of course, with additional material costs.

Fastening GKL "in a row"

In the list of the most popular mistakes when installing drywall is the installation of sheets in one row. This results in unevenness at the joints, which cannot be eliminated by finishing and the occurrence of seam cracks. To avoid this, it is strongly recommended to install the GKL in a run.

TO installation work should proceed after all the necessary calculations. In the process of manufacturing the frame and sheathing sheet material it is necessary to check both the reliability of the entire structure, and the correct installation of joints, compliance with angles, levels and linearity.

Puttying the seams

Few people like the prospect of living in the midst of bare walls made of nondescript gray or green drywall. Therefore, after installation, it must be prepared for subsequent finishing. If the owner of the premises is going to paint the walls or glue wallpaper on them, you will have to come to grips with the joints. To do this, you need to buy a primer, as well as gypsum putty and a reinforcing mesh (serpyanka). Before starting work, you should make sure that all the screws with which the GKL was attached to the profiles are driven flush, and the sheets themselves are fixed absolutely securely.

Places of non-original (cut) seams are treated with a primer. Some masters additionally expand the joints, however, this leads to an increase in the consumption of gypsum putty mixture. Next, prepare the solution, after which it is carefully applied with a spatula along the seam line and onto the caps of the screws. When sealing non-original joints, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh. It is applied to the freshly smoothed mortar with a spatula.

Puttying plasterboard walls is always performed after completion of work with the ceiling structure.

Straight outer corners are closed with a special perforated corner, which is fixed with mortar. The latter, regardless of its location - at the junction, screw head or fillet weld - must be smoothed and completely cover the metal. Laying the solution in "waves" and "steps" is not allowed. After processing the joints, the entire plane of the wall or plasterboard ceiling is puttied, or a special glue is laid on which the wallpaper chosen by the owner of the room is glued.

If the technology for mounting the frame, its sheathing and plasterboard putty has been observed, the walls or ceiling from it will be visually indistinguishable from ordinary ones. Upon completion of the finishing cycle of finishing works, the owner of the premises will only have to enjoy the beauty of the new interior.

Highlights when working with GKL, video

Working with drywall with your own hands, walls that can be perfectly aligned, or used to build light, durable partitions, is quite affordable even for a novice builder. Drywall is excellent for finishing the concrete walls of high-rise apartment buildings and leveling curved surfaces in private homes. This material is able to reduce the high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the building envelope.

The big advantage of drywall over others finishing materials is also the fact that from it you can create whole complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall, perform original arched structures.

With the use of this material, it is carried out in two ways - by fixing drywall sheets to a frame crate or by gluing the GKL to the wall using a special gypsum-based mounting compound.

If the process of leveling surfaces with plaster mortars requires fairly high skills, and if there are large differences on the walls, even outstanding skill, then working with drywall in such a comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation steps.

To put the walls in order without hitches and difficulties, you need to prepare well for this event by purchasing necessary materials and tools, as well as having studied the installation instructions for a particular design.

Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but will be of great benefit.

What is required for work?

Drywall installation tools

For the installation of drywall structures, special tools will be required, and, for gluing the material, a smaller number of them will be required than for fixing to the frame.

In order not to repeat and create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with a few clarifications.

Shurupov rt for mounting the frame and fixing the drywall on the crate.
Spatula of medium size for applying putty and glue.
Notched trowel for spreading the adhesive over the surface of the sheets.
or the usual building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
A sharp construction or clerical knife - for cutting material.
Electric drill with a hammer drill and drill bits for concrete - for fastening frame structure to ceilings, walls, floors.
Nozzle-mixer for mixing glue (if drywall will be attached to the wall with it) and putty compounds.
Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
Capacity for adhesive composition with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
Shears for cutting metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
Planer for processingedges- chamfering.
Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
Grinder - "Bulgarian" and a disk for cutting thin metal.
Prosekatel - for fastening metal profiles to each other.

A rule that tests the evenness of a surface.
Measuring and control tool - tape measure, a plumb line, a long metal ruler, a square, a simple pencil or marker.

Materials for working with drywall

From the materials you will need to purchase:

Drywall, which must be ordered 10÷15% more than the required quantity.

Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is designed for use in different rooms depending on operating conditions. The sheets have their own recognized color marking system, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:

Three main types of drywall - regular, moisture resistant and heat resistant

- Gray color has the usual drywall (gypsum plasterboard), used in residential premises with normal air humidity.

- The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for wall cladding around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the acronym GKLO.

- Green shades are inherent in a moisture-resistant material that is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in a bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.

- Dark gray or blue color is assigned to drywall, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is denoted by the letters GKLVO, and it is used to decorate the walls of baths or boiler rooms.

Sheet sizes various types drywall vary as follows:

drywall type	Thickness in mm	Width in mm	Sheet length in mm
GKL	8,0; 9,5; 12,5;14; 16	1200
GKL	18 and over	600	1200
GKLV	10; 12,5; 14;16	1200	standard - 2500 (on request - up to 4000 mm)
GKLO	12,5; 14; 16	1200 and 600	likewise
GKLVO	12,5; 14; 16	1200	likewise

Metal profile for installing wall lathing or mounting a frame partition.

Profile name	Profile brand	Application area
guide	PN 50/40	Frame guide profiles for wall cladding and partitioning.
	PN 75/40
	PN 100/40
rack	PN 50/50	Racks of a framework of partitions and lathings of walls.
	PN 75/50
	PN 100/50
	PP 60/27	Frame walls and suspended ceilings.
guide	Mon 28/27	Frame walls and suspended ceilings.
Protective corner profile	PU 20/20	Protection of external corners of partitions and walls.
Note: in the marking of profiles, the first number indicates the width, the second the height of the element. Profiles are produced in a standard length of 3000 mm.

Direct hangers - for fixing racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or level the wall with large differences.

Sealing tape, which is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.

Dry mortar - mounting adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing a crate.

before installing drywall and for training assembled structure to further puttying.

Gypsum-based putty - for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent finishing alignment of a plasterboard wall.
Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when their puttying.

Special self-tapping screws for working with drywall.

Dowels for fixing profile racks on brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.

Thermal insulation material - if it is planned to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Preparatory activities

Whatever method of mounting drywall on the wall is chosen, it is necessary to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or fungus does not develop under the drywall, and when gluing the material, it fits snugly against the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will guarantee a long operation. new wall without repair work.

The work can be conditionally divided into three stages - this is cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.

The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is solid and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
Cleaning can be done with a spatula. If you have to remove the wallpaper, then it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will more easily move away from the wall if you pick it up with a spatula.
If the plaster layer is unreliable, unstable, flaking, covered with cracks, then the damaged areas must be removed. This can be done in two ways:

- The first option is to knock down the old finish with a puncher, or manually - with a chisel and a hammer.

- The second option is to abundantly soak the plaster and carefully peel it off the wall with a spatula.

If a brick wall is leveled by gluing drywall, then it is imperative to remove all protrusions from it that could remain on it upon completion of the masonry. The protrusions will interfere with a good fit of the sheets to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with an ordinary hammer or with a puncher.

After that, brick wall must be thoroughly cleaned with an iron brush from the remnants of sand-cement mortar and dust.

Further, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they must be expanded, cleaned, and after it dries, sealed with a plaster mixture, sealant or mounting foam. The latter option is applicable if the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied with a roller.

Priming is a mandatory event, and it is better to carry it out in two layers.

All further work is carried out after complete drying of the wall surface.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Alignment of walls by gluing drywall

Mounting drywall with gluing is much easier than mounting it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is possible only if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and recesses of more than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.

This method of installation is not suitable even when the wall is supposed to soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under the drywall sheets.

This method is well suited for leveling not too high-quality walls to the ideal and creating a smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of a decorative finishing material.

Gluing works are carried out as follows:

The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with the common surface, since in these places, after the installation of drywall, voids may form where condensate will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.

You can bring all the recesses and dents to the same level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200 ÷ 300 mm from each other and up to the same level with the entire wall. Then, a plaster mortar of the required thickness is applied on top of them and equalized with the caps of the self-tapping screws and the rest of the surface.

Before proceeding to the next stage of work, it is necessary to wait for the mortar to harden well, as the drywall sheet will rest on it.

The next step is to apply another coat of primer.

The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but also create reliable adhesion between the wall, adhesive and drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.

Next, the mounting adhesive solution is mixed. To do this, water is poured into the container room temperature, into which the dry powder mixture is poured and kneaded with construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle installed on it. The manufacturer must indicate the proportions of the preparation of the solution in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.

It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue starts to harden very quickly, so it is better to knead it in small portions, otherwise you can spoil a large amount of the solution. If the process has begun with a grasping, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding an extra amount of water on an emergency basis.

Further, it is required to provide that the drywall sheet during installation does not rest against the floor surface, it must be raised from it by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. Therefore, a rail of this thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet to be mounted.
A drywall sheet is laid horizontally on the floor, and an adhesive mass is applied pointwise on it, in slides, at a distance of 180 ÷ 200 mm from one another. After that, the solution is slightly distributed, the sheet rises, is installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.

The installed drywall sheet can be corrected, trimmed in the range of 7 ÷ 10 mm, for example, by tapping on it with a building level or a rule. If an unclosed space remains on top (and this is how it most often happens), then it would be best to veneer with GKL fragments only after the installation of entire drywall sheets giving direction to the entire wall is completed.

Further, the work proceeds in the same order. All sheets are installed to each other end-to-end, with factory chamfers attached. Additional fragments, chamfers at the place of the cut, of course, do not have. It is not on the end sides of the GKL either. This means that for such joints it must be done independently, using a plane or a knife.
At the end of the installation, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the lined walls are left for about a day.
After that, you can proceed to sealing the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the joints of the sheets are glued with a sickle mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the putty layer applied on top does not crack.

A thin layer of putty is applied to the joints glued with a mesh using a spatula. It is best to level it immediately to the maximum, so that after solidification there is less smoothing work.

If the serpentine tape does not have its own adhesive base, then firstly, a serpentine is applied to the joint, and then a serpentine is applied on top of it, and then pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.

When the putty dries, it is rubbed with a special tool - grout, on which fine-grained sandpaper or abrasive mesh is installed.

After completion of sealing and drying of the joints, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.

High-quality puttying is the key to the aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard wall

Whatever technology is used when installing a drywall wall, the final step before finishing is giving surfaces of perfect evenness and smoothness with putty. How to do it right or for painting - in a special publication of our portal.

Alignment of the wall with drywall using a frame structure

Mounting on a frame is more difficult, but opens up more possibilities

Mounting drywall on the frame is a more complex and troublesome option, but you can’t do without it if you plan to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof. The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beam.

Illustration
	Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of loose plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling the wall with drywall, whether the structure is with or without insulation, it is necessary to cover the base surface with an antiseptic composition. Next, the wall must be marked out by marking vertical lines on it, which will serve as a guide for installing racks. The step between the drains is taken equal to 400 or 600 mm - these values fit well into standard width plasterboard sheet 1200 mm.
	The next step is to fix the guide profiles to the ceiling and floor, into which the racks will be installed and fixed.
	Profiles can be fastened to the floor, walls and ceiling with dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed. Profiles can be fixed to wooden bases with self-tapping screws.
	To improve the quality of sound insulation, prevent the transmission of vibrations to the frame and resonate the plasterboard coating, before fixing the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on its shelf adjacent to the surface.
	Having fixed the upper and lower guides on the flow and the floor, ideally exactly in the same vertical plane (this must be controlled with a plumb line), you can proceed to the installation of the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides are set, the entire drywall wall will be so even.
	The racks of the frame are installed inside the guides, set along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed with a notcher. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws
	On this photo the mounted frame is clearly visible, but it has not yet been finally fixed to the wall with the help of hangers.
	Further, each of the racks must be fixed with several straight hangers. These brackets are fixed on the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the suspensions (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall.
	In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the crate is ready for further work.
	The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the crate is ready, all communication wiring can be laid if, for example, it is planned to mount sockets or switches on this wall.
	If the wall is additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, thermal insulation material - mineral wool - is laid between the racks. Further, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane. It is attached to a wooden crate with a stapler and staples, and to a metal one - using double-sided masking or mounting tape.
	After that, proceed to the installation of drywall. The bottom sheets, in accordance with the technology, are recommended to be installed with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary linings, for example, a wooden lath, can be used during the installation process. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually the height of the sheet is not enough to close the entire space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top, which will later be covered by a separate fragment. It is recommended that sheets, starting from the second and further, be laid “in a run-up”, so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one from above - the next from below, etc. An example is shown in the figure.
	Drywall is fixed with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. The head of the self-tapping screw, after screwing in, should “drown” in drywall by about 1 mm. The step between the screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw “did not go”, then after removing it, another cannot be screwed into the same hole - you need to step aside by at least 50 mm.
	In this photo, the remaining area unfilled with drywall is clearly visible, and it has to be closed. To do this, it is necessary to install a cross-beam from the profile between the racks, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws.
	To fix the crossbar on the racks, you can fix the corners specially made from profile segments.
	The finished crossbar is installed between the uprights, half-slid under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a cutter or self-tapping screws.
	Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut off from the profile a segment equal to the distance between the uprights plus the width of the upright profile, since the wide part of the cross member must be on the uprights between which it will be fixed. Then, the side shelves of the crossbar are cut to a distance equal to half the width of the profile, and are bent outward at a right angle. They will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out using a notcher or self-tapping screws.
	A piece of plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After that, it is attached to the racks and the upper part of the installed cross member. A chamfer is made along the edges of the sheets at the junction with a sharp knife or planer - this is necessary in order to be able to putty the joining line of the fragments with high quality. Such a chamfer is made on all edges where it is not provided for by the sheet design itself. Fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules.
	A wall sheathed with drywall should look something like this.
	After that, a sickle mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all the holes must be puttied, from the caps of the self-tapping screws so that they do not later appear as rusty spots through the decorative finish. The final stage of work is the coating of all walls sheathed with drywall with a primer, and after it dries, with putty.

Installing a lightweight plasterboard partition

Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding on a frame structure. But there are also differences here, the frame is fixed to the walls only from the ends, and is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

The frame partition made of GKL has the following basic design:

The frame is mounted from a wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the drywall sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the canvas. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places a wooden beam is inserted into the metal profile for rigidity.
The frame is sheathed on both sides with drywall. Sometimes sheathing of one or both sides and two layers of material is practiced.
Between the sheets of cladding, soundproof (insulating) mats- as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.

Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step is to determine the place of installation of the partition, its marking is carried out. To do this, points are determined on the wall and on the floor using a laser or ordinary level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a colored paint cord.
	Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, with the help of a plumb line, points are determined for beating markings on the ceiling.
	Immediately you need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor for the installation of perfectly vertical racks. The fixing of the horizontal guide on the floor is carried out only before and after the measured area allotted for the doorway.
	After accurate marking of all surfaces, the area of \u200b\u200bfixing metal profiles will be immediately visible. The rails are fixed first to the walls, ceiling and floor, into which the racks will then be installed.
	These elements are fixed with dowels (self-tapping screws are used for wooden bases). First, through the guides are drilled through holes, and then dowels are inserted and driven into them (self-tapping screws are screwed in).
	Further, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. It is recommended to immediately make tabs from a wooden bar into these profiles. Racks are installed from floor to ceiling and are fixed in the rails with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from both sides.
	It is even better if two racks are installed next to them, combined with bars. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable.
	The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the transverse element will be fixed, completing its formation. To do this, the profile is cut at the corners, the side parts are bent and fixed on the racks.
	In order to stiffen the crossbar and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to a rail fixed to the ceiling, with one or two short posts.
	Further, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed strictly in a vertical position with the help of a notcher or self-tapping screws. The step between the uprights is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm.
	After installing the racks, you can proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. They are installed and fixed according to the same principle as when sheathing a wall. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe doorway, drywall should not be cut in advance. It will be more convenient to fix a solid sheet to the frame, and make cuts on it with a sharp knife on the spot.
	The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the side, longer, only cardboard is cut - then it will break exactly along the notch.
	Having finished the installation of drywall sheets on one side, you can start laying communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) passes through them. It is forbidden to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a tube-sleeve.
	In the chosen place, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, socket holes are drilled on the installed GKL sheets for mounting socket boxes. They are connected to the cabling.
	If it was planned, thermal laying is carried out. soundproofing material(mineral wool). Insulation panels or mats must be installed spaced apart between the posts.
	After completing the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame to help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame racks. If large enough gaps remain around it, they must be filled with mounting foam, wait for it to dry and carefully cut off the excess that has come out.
	After that, the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The installation principle does not change. Drywall on doorway fixed and cut out in the same way as in the previous case.
	The final stage before priming and puttying the entire surface is sealing the joints between the sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws.

It is very important to carry out qualitatively, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and this will depend appearance decorative finishes.

Video: a master class on the construction of a lightweight plasterboard frame partition

Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel like doing it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even that industrious owner of an apartment or house who has not previously come across the construction business will be able to carry out this event.

Many are aware of the existence metal profile for drywall, also everyone knows what it is intended for, but not many thought about how to work with it correctly. First you need to understand that not all metal products that are on the market today can be used for drywall installation.

Those. you can use any, but the quality of the work done proportionally depends on the quality of the metal profile. Many consumers buy cheaper and do not think about why it is cheaper than analogues. Therefore, when buying a metal profile, be sure to pay attention to its rigidity.

The thickness of the produced metal profile is from 0.5 to 0.8 mm. The thicker it is, the more reliable the design will be, but the cost of the product also increases. If it is possible to order a metal profile directly from the factory, then you can order any length. The standard length of manufactured profiles is 2750, 3000, 4000, 4500 mm.

Rack profile (PS) is used for the construction of drywall partitions. There is a PS of different sizes: 50x50 mm, 65x50 mm, 75x50 mm, 100x50 mm. The choice of one or another size of the metal profile is due to the choice of thickness and sound insulation of the partition.

The PS is placed vertically, fastening it to the guide profile using a special tool. For ease of installation, the typical size is reduced by 1.5 mm. Thus, the vertical metal profile is inserted into the guide without deformation.

The PS has a U-shaped section, so it must be installed so that the direction of the open side is in one direction. This ensures convenient installation of drywall sheets and prevents the profile from bending at the joints of the sheets.

Along the entire metal profile there are special grooves that allow the self-tapping screw not to slip when screwed in. Also, these grooves serve as a guide line when joining drywall sheets.

(PN) is made in the same dimensions as PS. The only difference is that there are no guide grooves and there are holes for attaching to the plane. It is believed that the holes facilitate the installation of a metal profile, but in addition to simplifying the work, there are small flaws. Dowel inserted into the hole may be slightly smaller in diameter and this will lead to a non-rigid fixing of the profile to the plane, so it is better to drill a new hole that will match the diameter of the dowel.

PN differs from PS in the absence of wrapped shelves. This, in fact, allows you to use it as a guide profile.

(PP) is used for mounting false ceilings or plasterboard wall cladding. PP has a standard U-shape, 60 or 55x27 mm in size. Three grooves are located along the entire length of the metal profile, which are used to center the sheets and screw in the screws.

The edges of the profile are inserted into the guide profile, and attached to the plane with the help of special fasteners, which are installed with a certain step. Fasteners can be divided into internal and external. Internal fasteners are inserted inside the metal profile and fastened to the ceiling with special studs (steel wire), and external fasteners are attached to the profile shelves using self-tapping screws. The use of certain fasteners is due to the distance from the frame to the bearing plane.

Internal fasteners, they are also called quick hangers, are used when mounting the ceiling. External, direct fastenings, can be used both for mounting the ceiling and for plasterboard wall cladding.

(PNP) is used as a guide profile for PP. PNP size - 27x28 mm. It has the same characteristics as the PN, so it is worth mounting it, guided by the same descriptions.

When using PNP in installation false ceiling, fastened around the perimeter of the entire room. When sheathing walls - fastened to the walls, ceiling and floor.