Is it possible to build a bath. Frame bath pros and cons, reviews of users and specialists. Prices for foam blocks

Modern owners of summer cottages have long ceased to measure their own territory based on flower beds alone, which no longer surprise anyone. The layout of the house is also rarely unique. Not many people are able to give up such joys of life as a modern bathhouse. If the house is being built from scratch, then the bath is laid at the first stages of design. But what to do if the house has already been built, but there is no separate area for the bath? Is it possible to attach a bath to an existing house? There is no single answer to this question, since we are talking about a huge number of nuances that can one way or another affect the answer. To make an informed and informed decision, all available indicators should be considered.

A very important point is right choice materials needed for construction.
If a bathhouse is located on the territory of the main building, then special attention should be paid to ventilation and air conditioning.
For combined buildings, a clearer layout should be created. Here you will need the help of specialists, since it will not work to make all the necessary calculations on your own.
Bath and house under one roof requires compliance advanced level security.

If the owner originally planned to combine these two buildings, then first he must familiarize himself with the existing safety regulations. The design and construction of such complex structures requires increased attention and a share of reverence. You should understand the existing intricacies of each of the designs in order to correctly bring everything to life.

Several options for the correct combination of the house with the bath

The main point in the process of creating a plan for a bath combined with a house is a detailed and ergonomically correct layout of the rooms used. The bathhouse located in the house must be placed in accordance with all safety rules. Before the start of the necessary work you should seek help from a specialist or directly from the designers. To begin with, it is worth deciding on the location of the bath. What premises it will occupy and how convenient it will be.

Allowed:

a bathhouse located on the attic (roof) of the main house;
a bath combined with a toilet;
but most often basements are used for arranging a bath.

After the place for the future bath has been chosen, you should clarify with the specialist the possibility of using it specifically for the bath. To what extent is it expedient and, most importantly, is it safe? Most young families, when designing their own family nest, prefer to make a bath in the form of an extension that borders the main part of the house. At the same time, a number of nuances should be taken into account that can reduce such a desire to nothing, due to the impossibility of implementing this plan.

These include:

an increase in the expense item associated with the purchase of a huge amount of auxiliary building materials;
the need for additional communication wiring.

There are no regulations that would prohibit such an option for combining these two buildings. With a well-designed project, this idea can often be easily implemented.

Features of the installation of windows and walls

If timber is used in the construction of the bath, it is necessary to calculate the possible shrinkage that will occur over the next few years. In case it was decided to use blocks or bricks, care should be taken to ensure perfectly even walls, which can only be achieved by complying with all norms and requirements regarding masonry. If the bath will act as an extension, then you should take care of correct docking bearing walls to ensure the best connection. You will need to drill several holes into which the reinforcing bars will be threaded. They are driven in so that their end is fixed in the masonry of the future building.

Of all possible window structures, metal-plastic structures are most popular. They are quite practical and easy to use. Requires virtually no maintenance and is characterized by a long service life. When working with them, you should adhere to the following rules:

each window should have a small window;
jumpers should be completely excluded, as well as huge and massive structures (high level of heat loss).

Ignoring these rules will not lead to anything good. In addition, in winter, the room also needs timely ventilation.

Benefits of such a project

The main advantages of the combined buildings of the bathhouse and the house include the incredible calmness and comfort of the owners. There is no need to dress up and go to the other end of the site, because everything you need is located nearby. In particular, this applies to those cases when I would like to take children to the steam room. After spending some time in the bath, you can even go from the bath to the kitchen, bedroom or cozy living room with a fireplace and TV in a dressing gown and room slippers. I would also like to consider this point. Often, the bath is used as the main type of treatment or prevention of numerous seasonal diseases. In this case, it will be much more convenient to have such a room in the immediate vicinity of the house.

You should not ignore the financial side of the issue, because combined buildings of this type imply the use of significant savings family budget. Equipping several rooms of the house for a bath is much easier than rebuilding a full-fledged building for it. In addition, you can not make a rest room, because for this you can use one of the rooms located in the house. The equipment of the dressing room and the steam room will be sufficient, since the rest of the amenities are already located in the neighborhood. Laying additional engineering networks is also not required. The ability to save space also plays an important role, because if the site is small and there is no opportunity to build a full-fledged bath, there is always the possibility of combining buildings. Special costs for further maintenance will not be required, as is the case with separate building. The ability to speed up the process of warming up and taking relaxing and wellness treatments. But this applies only to those cases if a separate bath is not heated.

Flaws

Deficiencies will be present in any case, even if they are not many or they are insignificant. Fire safety is one of the most significant and main disadvantages of such an undertaking. That is why the majority refuses such combinations. There are also a number of other nuances that may affect the decision:

often insurance companies refuse to insure housing of this kind, because the level of its security is several times lower than ordinary residential buildings (and insurance is mandatory in our country);
if all requirements are not met, even public utilities can reasonably refuse to provide their services (gas supply);
after graduation construction works you should visit many instances, and they will not allow you to arrange this type of premises.

Finishing work of the external type

In most cases, this concerns the bureaucratic aspects of the issue, which often frighten our compatriots. After all, everyone knows that no one will do or assert anything without a preliminary agreement. In this case, there are practical nuances that may affect the decision to combine two buildings under one roof:

If both buildings were built from natural wood, then in the absence of certain experience and knowledge, in the future they will suffer due to incredibly high level dampness, which will be formed due to steam. This will lead to rotting and destruction of the base material.
If both buildings have considerable dimensions, then the issue of space heating should be approached with particular seriousness. Boilers should be purchased based on incredible power, as it should be enough for all rooms. Heating bills will skyrocket.
The arrangement of the sewer system will also be required, since it is not considered entirely appropriate to carry out a general drain of sewage from the house and those that will be formed in the bath. This will overload the main tank.
To build a chimney, you will need a colossal calculation regarding the thrust used. Several pipes will be visible from the house at the same time and this will require several additional holes. For many, this factor is repulsive.
The washing room must be designed in accordance with all requirements. So, it is recommended to use tiles for interior finishing works. Thus, it will be possible to completely dry this room and prevent the spread of moisture and dampness to other rooms in the house.
If you do not give due attention to the ventilation and ventilation of the premises, then dampness will slowly spread to all rooms. Over time, it will simply be impossible to remove it.
When using a stove stove that uses wood to kindle, you will need a stronger draft in the chimney. If you do something wrong, smoke will seep inside the house and the ceiling will slowly begin to become covered with a layer of soot.

This is just a list of the main disadvantages that you should pay attention to when combining these two buildings. True, if you approach this issue professionally, then these moments can be completely avoided, but this will require serious investment. The main thing is not to forget about the safety rules for a minute and to strictly observe them.

Proper placement of buildings is one of the most important steps in the arrangement of the site, regulated by the rules of construction work. Irregular installation of the bath poses a threat to the health of people and the integrity of property.

The construction of a bath can be performed on various sites: from standard 6 acres with a non-permanent house to extensive land holdings with large mansions. But, no matter where the construction is going on, the question of location does not lose its relevance. Of course, if there is sufficient area, it is easier to swing, but if the size of the site is limited, then you have to calculate any centimeter.

Planning a safe distance between the bath and the neighboring territory should be based on the norms of SNiP.

A bathhouse on a personal plot can be built according to various projects and from different materials. Wood or brick, a gutter or a solid septic tank to collect dirty water ... These and other parameters affect the location of the bath.

The rules of SNIP state that minimum distance from the bath building to the fence - 300 cm. The design should not interfere with the comfort of the neighbors, obscure their site. In addition, the bathhouse is a fire hazardous facility, and observing this gap reduces the risk that, in the event of a potential fire, the fire will spread to the neighboring territory.

A distance of 3 meters will protect the adjacent area from the ingress of dirty water, especially if the drains go into a simple ditch. The organization of a high-quality drainage system will help to save the extra 50 cm from the fence.

The distance from the neighboring residential building to the bath should be at least 800 cm. This parameter can be reduced to 600 cm if the bath is built of concrete blocks or bricks.
If the windows of the neighbor's house "look" at your side, then the gap between the buildings should be such that the smoke cannot penetrate into the neighbors' housing. If the window openings do not go to your side, then the distance can be reduced.

Rules within the site

Before starting the construction of a bath, it is necessary to consider all the nuances of its location relative to other buildings located on the site.

Distance to natural water bodies

Ideally, the bath complex is best located on the shore of the reservoir. Although there are certain rules. To protect the lake from ingress Wastewater it is necessary that the steam room is located at least 15 meters from it.

It must be understood that the construction of a bathhouse near a pond threatens with several troubles:

It will become unprofitable if there are “marshy” soils on the site, as it will require additional costs to strengthen the foundation. If this measure is neglected, then after a certain time the bath will “float” along with the soil;
Requires strengthening of the coastline. Otherwise, construction pile foundation may result in slope collapse.

Thus, it is better if the bath is located 20-30 meters from the lake or pond.

In addition, according to the Water Code, the territory located along the coastline of a natural reservoir is in public ownership. It cannot be obstructed or blocked in any other way. The width of this strip is 20 meters.

Distance to home

The distance between the bath structure and a residential building within one section depends on the materials used in the construction and the method of heating the steam room.

If the bath is heated according to the "black", then it should be 12 meters from the residential building. In addition, it is recommended to build a steam room on the leeward side;
Firefighters do not recommend building a smoky bath on a site where many buildings have already been erected. This will bring discomfort to the inhabitants of the house and threatens with potential ignition.

But, in fact, fire safety requirements do not regulate the exact distance between the bathhouse and other structures on the territory of one site. It is not forbidden by law to build it close to residential building or garage. The only thing they say sanitary norms- this is the location of the washing room, or rather, even how exactly the drains will be discharged.

But if possible, the distance from the bath to the buildings should meet the following standards:

The distance from a brick or stone structure to a brick house is 6 m;
If a residential building is built of wood with a roof of corrugated board or metal tiles, then 8 m;
If the building is completely made of wood, then the required distance is 10 m;
The distance between the bathhouse and the barn in which pets live is 4 m.

Conclusion

Before starting the construction of a bath, it is necessary to think over many important details regarding its location. The building plan must be worked out very carefully. A frivolous attitude to this issue threatens with further problems with neighbors and inspection bodies, as well as a high probability of penalties.

Rest without a bath is not a rest. Replace bath with suburban area neither outdoor shower nor bathing can. Of course, if the budget is very limited, you should not aim at the construction of a two-story bath complex with a swimming pool. But it is possible to build a small cozy bathhouse on a suburban area with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how a budget bath is built with our own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent missteps and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. wooden bath can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Wood is a classic material for building baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths warm up quickly, and essential resins released into the air have a positive effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from ideal for construction. In order for the walls of the bath to be even, you need to choose a quality beam or log. Do not forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead”.

It is important to be able to work with an ax and a saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut down locks to connect corners, external and internal walls, overlays. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this is associated with additional costs and is not relevant for the construction budget bath. It is best to build at least two people, because alone it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns, especially the top ones.

For the construction of a bath, hardwood, such as linden, is best suited. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight tape option (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and decoration. If the bath will be used for its intended purpose only in the warm season, there is no need to purchase insulation, battens for battens, steam and wind insulation, finishing decorative material for the facade of the bath. A tree, if it is thoroughly sanded and coated with a protective impregnation, varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into landscape design private land plots.

In a budget bath, you can save on the organization of a full-fledged sewerage and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made torrential, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant impression of bath procedures.

What can't be saved? Wood is a highly flammable material. It is worth a little oversight, not closing the blower door, as a hot coal that has fallen out will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible in case of neglect of the rules fire safety when installing the oven and Therefore, in no case should you save on:

fire and bioprotective impregnation;
fire cutting;
materials for floor insulation in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, ugly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of nodes of their strength.

Very important in wooden baths proper ventilation. Even if the bath area is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to enjoy the smell of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.

lumber	Breed	Cross section or diameter, cm	Price in rubles per cubic meter
Profiled timber	Pine, spruce	140x140	From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles.
Profiled timber	Larch	140x140	From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles.
Kruglyak	Larch	180 to 460	From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles.
gun carriage	Larch	150x250	From 15 thousand rubles.

*The average cost of building materials is relevant for 2017.

Based on the cost of new lumber, a budget bath will definitely not work. The way out of the situation is to buy a used beam at a price of 1,000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also come in handy if they are used correctly.

Bricks and blocks

A bath made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. And a sudden outbreak of fire is not terrible for stone walls. At your taste and discretion, you can build a bath of any size and shape, if only funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a wide range of products from the most different forms, shades, textures. For example, by combining bricks of two different shades during the construction of walls, you can build a bathhouse that looks very neat and aesthetic.

On a note! IN brick bath the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmission. But in this case, it is important to take care of the arrangement of effective ventilation.

A brick bath warms up longer than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. brick walls need finishing, and this adds cost items to the overall estimate. For laying bricks, a cement-sand mortar is used, which can be bought ready-made and simply diluted with water in the right proportions, or you can prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bath from ordinary M100 bricks?

building material	Description	Price
	Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm.	From 6.20 RUB for 1 piece.
	It has the same dimensions as the ordinary. It is used for laying those walls that are exposed to direct heating. For example, fireclay bricks lay out a base for a furnace and a protective screen.	From 41 rub. for 1 piece.
	River sand for the preparation of masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation	From 68 rubles for 30 kg
	The purpose is the same as that of the sand. Fraction of crushed stone 5-20 mm.	From 86 rub. for 30 kg
	M400	From 195 rub. for 50 kg

For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, let's take a single brick and laying in one brick (the wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data, we get:

taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry requires 102 bricks;
102 bricks x 6.20 rubles. = 632.4 rubles.

Brick prices

Usually a brick is purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible marriage. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of the wall, you need to add the cost of the solution. Do not forget that you may need a concrete mixer, grouting, a set of mason's tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. Disadvantages are similar to bricks.

Blocks are laid with reinforcement of rows, fixation is carried out with special glue or cement-sand mortar.

For the construction of a bath, blocks with dimensions of 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions, blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 pc.

The number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

with a wall thickness of 20 cm, in one square meter the walls will be 5.5 blocks (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
with a wall thickness of 30 cm, there will be 8.33 blocks in one square meter of the wall (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bath, it is preferable to use not bricks, but blocks of 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that the blocks are purchased with a margin.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bath. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for a penny, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bath, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bath from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided that the reinforcement is properly made, the walls will not crack. Even during the construction of a budget bath, you should not neglect the margin of safety of the walls, so that in the next few years you will not start doing overhaul baths.

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of an aerated concrete bath with a brick plinth

We will consider the process of building a bath with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to equip three main rooms: a rest room or dressing room, a shower room, a steam room. If the free area on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bath, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the interior space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower and other amenities.

So, let's begin. Inspect your land, prepare a site for construction. It is necessary to remove garbage, uproot stumps, remove upper layer soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the site.

In advance, you need to prepare a bath project with the laying order. According to the drawings, it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and conduct construction.

Make markings on the ground, dig trenches, fill in shallow strip foundation. Don't forget the perfumes. You can read more about pouring technology.

It is important to carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, nevertheless, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with a cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We lay on the foundation tape waterproofing material, for example, strips of roofing material.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Step 2 We knead the cement-sand mortar for laying bricks. To prepare the solution, we use the proportions:

cement M400 - 1 bucket;
sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
dishwashing detergent or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water to the concrete mixer or mortar container and detergent, then add cement and sand, with constant stirring. The consistency of the finished solution will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, not blurry mark will remain. Mixing should be carried out from 3 to 5 minutes.

The finished solution is transferred to buckets and transported to the construction site.

Step 3 We begin laying the brick base. We will work from the corners of the bath.

We apply the mortar with a trowel on the brick. We lay the brick at the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). We put a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, knock out the brick with the handle of the trowel. Repeat the procedure on the next corner of the bath foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we stretch the mooring thread, additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. We put the second brick on each of the corners perpendicular to the first.

We are laying the basement "in one and a half bricks." At standard sizes bricks, the total width of the base will be 38 cm. This width is the sum of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is a bonding mortar joint.

Spoon out the first outer row. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing into the mortar and slightly moving back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. Excess solution is immediately removed with a trowel. We knock out the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the side of the "street", you will see a row laid "in half a brick".

We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bath. Next, we lay the masonry according to the ordering scheme, observing the dressing of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and proceed to the arrangement of the floor.

Step 4. To equip the floor covering, it is necessary to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the "nests" of the base to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width of the interior, add 20 cm, we get the length of the beams. The cross section of the beams can be selected using the table.

*The cross section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum floor load 400 kg/m 3 .

We cut the roofing material into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing material, fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on the ends, observing an equal distance between them.

We continue with bricklaying.

We spread two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay the brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single ordinary brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints in height will be 150 mm, the upper surface of the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Fourth row masonry

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the solution. The lining will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5 The basement is built, we proceed to the laying of walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing material on a brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bath.

We start work again from the corners of the bath. We knead the solution, lay out a layer on top of the roofing material.

The solution is leveled with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the basement. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. We perform the check with a hydro level, a bubble level, if there is a laser level, it is better to use it.

Haste is inappropriate here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow the installation of a whole block, it is necessary to cut with a hacksaw with small teeth. After cutting from the block, we sweep away the dust with a brush.

When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6 We proceed to the reinforcement of the first row of blocks.

We are preparing a set of tools for work in advance.

Tool	Approximate minimum cost, rub.
	450
	490
	500
	600
	365

*Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement, we use corrugated bars of class A3. Bar diameter 8 mm. Reinforcement of greater thickness is not advisable to take.

Using a manual wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw in advance with a pencil on the surface of the blocks two parallel straight lines along the ruler. At the corners of the bath and at the junctions of the internal partitions with the external walls, the strobes are rounded, parallel.

We clean the surface of the strobe from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in the strobes. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. We pay attention that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The connection of bars is possible at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We take out the reinforcement from the strobe, put it on the surface of the blocks.

We knead the glue for aerated concrete (the approximate cost for 25 kg is 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then pour the dry mixture from the bag. We mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue should not spread.

We fill the strobes with glue. We spread the glue with a spatula. Embed the rebar in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without recesses or bumps.

Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a dressing similar to brickwork"in half a brick." The offset of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ of the block length.

It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must match the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the adhesive quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, such as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched trowels or special buckets that can reduce the consumption of glue.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.

For the convenience of ligation of blocks, you can start laying from half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. We sweep away the dust with a brush. We apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bath is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Step 8 We turn to the laying of jumpers, their reinforcement.

There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes at an additional cost.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the notch on the block with a hacksaw, then remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

For laying blocks, we make formwork from boards. Blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with props, fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The armored belt should protrude beyond the window and door openings by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. The ends of the blocks are fastened with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

We start knitting the armo-belt. We use plastic clamps (screeds) for binding. The armored belt consists of four long parallel bars, and every 0.5 m - vertical pieces of reinforcement. In cross section, the armored belt should form a square.

Important! It is impossible to lay the armored belt directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the armoframe will not take the correct position and will not be filled with concrete from all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. Concrete mix seal by piercing with a bar or wooden lath. We level the surface as carefully as possible.

Now you need to make a technical pause and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has frozen, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will perform the function of an armored belt.

We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be filled along the entire perimeter of the outer and inner walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

We lay the entire row of prepared blocks on the glue.
We install polystyrene boards. We cut them carefully, along the ruler, so that the edges are even.
We knit armoframe.
We put the clamps, put the frame inside the blocks.

We pour concrete.
Leveling the surface.
We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. We proceed to the arrangement of the interfloor overlap. It will be wooden. Antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends are laid on the armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the plinth was being built.

But since now we are not laying a brick, but a gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We carry out the laying of blocks in a standard way, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our construction example, the bath will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams are carried outside the walls of the bath.

Step 11 We lay the subfloor. We lay the edged board on top of the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, we take hardware 8 cm long.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are inserted, decorative finishing will be carried out, foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, lining or lining will be nailed simple board from hardwoods.

Step 12 Usually, a one-story bath is quite enough for the owners for a comfortable pastime. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put a small sofa, a table, equipping a rest room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be pleasant to relax, cool down, going out to the small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and will reduce the cost of building materials.

Roof of complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with a gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicular slopes of the roof are clearly visible on both sides.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple shed or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

installation of vertical racks from a bar;
installation of horizontal strapping;
flooring of floor beams over the strapping;
installation of extreme roof trusses along the gables;
Floor beams and rafters
installation of intermediate roof trusses;
laying gables from blocks;
installation of vapor barrier from the side of the room;
filing the ceiling, slopes from the inside with a board;
styling mineral wool in two layers;
installation of wind protection on top of the insulation;
installation of a counter-lattice under a metal tile;
assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation of a windproof membrane and a counter-lattice on the slopes of the canopy;
installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

You can see how the roof of a complex configuration is being built in the video.

Prices for gas blocks

gas blocks

Video - Roof Construction

Video - Construction of gables

Video - Rafters, armored belt

Video - Completion of the installation of rafters, laying of aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter-lattice for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling of the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bath

Step 1. We fasten the Mauerlat over the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (grouses).

We drill holes in the boards, and then in the blocks. We hammer dowels. We lay a layer of roofing material as a waterproofing. We put the Mauerlat board, screw in the screws (grouse).

Step 2. We install vertical racks and a horizontal strapping beam. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bath - 30 cm. The slope of the roof will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

On a note! So that the racks do not loosen from gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 We lay the rafters (we put straight boards on the edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal bars of the front and rear frames).

Step 4 Perpendicular to the rafters, we mount the boards of the counter-lattice.

Step 5 We fasten sheets of corrugated board. We cut off the counter-lattices sticking out along the edges of the board.

Step 6 We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install columns from a bar and one additional strut each, in order to attach the skin in the future.

Step 7 We hem the draft ceiling.

Step 8 Sheathe the frame with plywood. Plywood sheets are treated with a protective impregnation.

Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.

Step 10 If the decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we fix the protective visors made of tin.

As decorative finishes the facade of the bath, you can use plaster. It is necessary to choose a mixture for cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from the remnants of glue, grind off the bumps, if any. After grinding, the walls must be primed with the Aerated Concrete-Contact primer. The plaster mortar is applied with a wide spatula over the fiberglass mesh fixed with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.

Own bath in the courtyard of a private house or is the dream of many owners of suburban areas. Everyone knows that the bath serves as a place not only for regular washing, but also for wellness procedures - healing steam cleanses the pores, improves blood circulation and gives vitality. In addition, there is a tradition that this particular building often turns into a kind of “club”, where you can have such a great time with friends or relatives.

Therefore, before the owners planning to create such a useful “complex”, the question inevitably arises - what is better to build a bath from, so that it can be created and maintained an optimal microclimate at any time of the year and at no extra cost. The choice of material directly affects the creation of a healthy, relaxing bath atmosphere.

In addition, the right material is the key to the durability of this structure. It is imperative to take into account the fact that the inner surfaces of the walls will be constantly exposed to humid hot air and temperature changes.

The modern market offers a wide variety of different building materials suitable for building walls for houses, utility, utility and other specific buildings. However, it is worth considering in more detail and figuring out which one is ideal for a bath.

For Russia, the banya is considered a place where you can not only spend time. It has long been known that in order to cleanse the spirit and body, you need to take a good steam bath with a birch or oak whisk. But the question arises of how to efficiently, economically build at least a mini-bath on your site.

In this article, we'll show you how to do it, what is the best material to choose, how much does it cost. Consider the main mistakes in construction, time and financial aspects.

What is important in the beginning?

Having decided to build, one should understand a small but significant thing. A nice, small bath needs a project. Many underestimate the importance of drawings and calculations. And this depends on the speed, reliability, comfort and cost.

Advice! Before going to the architect, you need to decide on the material.

log walls

In Rus', it so happened that wooden baths were built. There are reasons for this. Usually choose the following breeds:

Pine.
Fir.
Cedar.

The log bath will not be subject to rotting, resistant to moisture. No need for additional vapor barrier.

Pros:

Natural material, environmentally friendly.
Holds heat well.
"Log" are considered the most durable. The quality is superior to frame, stone - buildings. Observing construction technologies, the service life without repair reaches 70-80 years.
Relatively inexpensive material, it all depends on the region.
Great aesthetic look.

Minuses:

The disadvantage of this material is the mandatory subsidence of the building by 15–20 cm. After the construction of the frame, it is recommended to wait a year.

Construction from timber

Most often, timber is used in the construction of baths. It exists in four types:

Planed.
Glued.
Not planed.
profiled.

It is possible to use any of the listed materials. But the most popular is profiled or planed. Let's consider each separately.

Planed

Special processing makes it virtually invulnerable to cracking. Bar passed chamber drying, will be more expensive. It all depends on the professionalism of the builders. For example, if you build with your own hands, then it is advisable to choose high-quality processing.

It is good to make the installation from the prepared timber. This is easier thanks to the “comb”, which provides an easy, reliable and tight grip. This allows the construction to be carried out with less effort.

Mezhventsovye sections are protected thanks to a special profile. It also allows you to do without repairs for many years, to save the heat of the walls.

Advantages:

Long service life.
Environmentally friendly material.
Low cost.
Easy to mount.

Flaws:

Violations in the drying technique leads to deformation, twisting.
"Susceptible" to crackling even with processing.
It may darken over time.

Glued

More "difficult" to manufacture. It is made from boards and logs. Passes high-quality drying and gluing. Due to the processing of two or more lamellas, it is considered the most good material for the construction and decoration of baths and saunas. It is chosen by people who are not used to saving.

Pros:

Allows for a month or two to build a building.
"Chic" in aesthetic terms.
Practically not subject to shrinkage.
Doesn't deform.
Thanks to its high-quality processing - it does not crack.
Optimum humidity eliminates the appearance of fungus, mold.

Minuses:

Expensive stuff.
Uses adhesive compositions makes it not environmentally friendly.
To assemble a shield bath very quickly, which is what commercial enterprises use.

not planed

The most inexpensive and sought after of the materials. Unplaned timber (sawn) is a square or rectangular section. Production is carried out from spruce or pine. Drying of wood takes place not in chambers, but on fresh air. This made it possible to significantly reduce the cost of the material.

Pros:

The minimum cost for the construction of the frame.
Perhaps used as a finishing material.
Does not require highly qualified specialists.

Minuses:

After the construction of the box, the building is left for a year to shrink.
It is necessary to additionally insulate, caulk the cracks. Cracks may appear during use of the building.
Requires external insulation.
Needs additional interior decoration.

profiled

It got its name thanks to the connecting locks. They can be divided into the following:

Comb.
With one spike.
With two spikes.
Norwegian.
Finnish.

Easy to install. Slots and interventional corners are cut at the construction site. The most suitable type of material.

Advantages:

High-quality grinding allows you to use it in the finish.
No harmful chemicals are used.
Produced from spruce, pine, oak.
Due to its low thermal conductivity, it retains heat well.
A weak share of shrinkage is 4–5 cm.
Fast erection with small forces.

Flaws:

Poor drying will lead to more sagging.
Must be treated with fire extinguishers.
After the construction, there will be no possibility of redevelopment.

Now very popular bath-barrel, made of profiled material. The price starts from 60 thousand for an already assembled structure, which is convenient to fit even on the very small plot dachas in six acres. And the construction is in operation. without foundation.

Modern building materials for a bath

Few people know that baths built with brick and cement will look and function no worse than wooden ones. Consider the common options from expanded clay (cinder block) and bricks.

brick bath

Buildings made of stone have a number of advantages over wooden structures. The advantages include:

weather resistance,
practicality,
the possibility of redevelopment.

But the cost will increase significantly - this is due to the preparation and installation of the foundation. As well as mandatory interior decoration.

For the construction of brick baths, the services of professional builders of various specialties are required. If only carpenters are needed for wood, then here you will need:

Bricklayers.
Plasterers.
Finishers.
Roofers.

To independently build quickly, you will need tremendous knowledge and experience. Improper laying of walls will lead to the formation of condensate and instability of the structure. You will also need additional thermal insulation of the facade of the building.

Foam blocks

This material is more suitable for construction. Although it is considered "young" material. He got his fans. Successfully used in the construction of residential facilities, including baths from foam blocks.

Light weight, excellent thermal conductivity allows you to make a warm building. But just like a brick, the foam block needs a foundation and additional thermal insulation. Of the main qualities of the stone, its fire resistance is distinguished. For example: a brick crumbles under the influence of high temperature. The same cannot be said for .

It is made from environmentally friendly materials. Easy to handle. Low price allows you to compete with other building materials.

The most expensive materials in construction

Common mistakes in construction

In order for the bath to turn out to be solid, it is necessary to pay attention to the mistakes that are made by both professionals and amateurs:

The tree should be dense from conifers: spruce, pine.
Incorrectly calculated foundation.
Logs should be from 20 to 25 cm. Too thin will fit only for a rural "temporary house", will lead to heat loss.
To preserve heat - in the decoration it is necessary to use moisture-resistant wood; alder, poplar or aspen can handle this.

Due attention should be given bricks for oven. First, it must be red refractory. Secondly, solid, you can not use hollow ones. An error is considered too large or small window. For a bath, it should be at least 50 * 50.

Which is better - to build it yourself or use the services of a company?

The construction of a bath brings with it a number of problems. This is a dilemma: build on your own or through a firm. Choosing self-construction, you need to be prepared for such processes as:

Responsibility for quality.
It takes a lot of effort and time.
Building experience required.
You can forget about the quick completion of construction.
Hire assistants (shabashniki).
Purchase, delivery - materials.
Foundation calculation.

Of course, there are advantages to self-building. Namely:

Freedom of choice.
Phased construction.
Better quality control.
Money saving.

Advantages and disadvantages of the company:

Hiring a company removes a number of problems with finding workers.
The responsibility for quality lies with the company.
Responsible for the development of the project and supervision of the construction process.
Professionals will build.
Rapid project completion. You can even order a project of a bath with a pool.

Of the minuses:

additional financial costs.

It is obvious that hiring a company that can carry out turnkey construction is much more profitable than doing such a difficult job alone.

Cost overview

Pivot table. Prices are for various materials along with work:

How to build a budget bath with your own hands: let's go through the basic steps

The first step is to decide on the materials and placement, area. And you will also have to face obstacles such as:

calculation and laying the foundation,
frame construction,
finishing,
decide on insulation
vapor barrier,
Consider installing equipment.

Foundation

To make the foundation strong and economical, a pile version is suitable for its device. It is much easier to make than tape.
The next step is markup. Do not forget about the partitions inside the room.
Then the location of the piles is marked. The distance between them should wash two meters. Piles must be located at the intersection of the walls and at each corner.
The wells should be 25–30 cm wide and 1–1.5 meters deep.
The well is half filled with sand, spilled with water, followed by tamping.
After that, you can start immersing asbestos pipes. Reinforcement is created around them and wooden frame for pouring concrete.
Leave this design to dry completely - for five days.

Caracas

You will need a well-dried timber.
Before installation, it should be treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
At intersections and corners - reinforced bars are installed (vertically).
Each such pillar should stand every meter apart, not forgetting to leave openings for windows.
The whole structure is combined with bars or boards, and fastened with the help of lintels from a bar.
In such unpretentious images, a frame with a roof is assembled.

Finishing - insulation

OSB boards are used in the decoration.
Sheets are screwed with wood screws.
Joint gaps are filled with mounting foam.
Inside, the decoration takes place according to the same principle with only one difference: insulation and vapor barrier are inserted before sewing.

Completion

After sheathing and insulation, you can proceed to the arrangement of furniture and additional equipment.

Important! Furniture should be made of moisture resistant wood. As a furnace, you can use purchased electric ones.

Results

Building on your own is a long, nervous and seasonal process. The fastest way to assemble a bath on the site is from foam concrete or a finished dried log house. If you work with four or more hands, then one season is enough to build the foundation, walls and roof. Well, the external and internal component of the cladding is a secondary issue.

The optimal combination according to the conditional characteristic "Price-quality" concerns:

Dry log buildings (medium diameter);
Red brick baths (subject to normal interior decoration). Fire resistant;
Premises from a bar 15 X 15, 20 X 20, preferably dry.

Advice! When planning a purchase, plan and time of year for construction, do not rush to calculate the area. A log house or masonry 4 by 4 meters is enough for the whole family, where even a washing room can fit.

For your information, barrel baths do not count, because this is a prefabricated structure, a kind of temporary option for several years.

The best video about building a bath with your own hands

Sergey Zhornachuk's material deservedly gained more than 200 thousand views, thousands of likes and approving comments. Well-mounted, informative, sensible video about the construction of a bath with his own hands.