How to make ventilation in the sauna with your own hands? Proper ventilation in the bath: highlights Installation of ventilation in the bath

Being indoors, a person absorbs oxygen, exhaling carbon dioxide. Everything seems to be as usual, but if such a room means a steam room, where hot steam is constantly swirling, then fresh air in this case has nowhere to come from. In such a room it is impossible not only to rest, but even just to be. After all, the body gradually relaxes, the amount of oxygen, in turn, decreases, and by the time there is nothing to breathe, a person may simply not reach the door.

According to safety standards, the replacement of air in the steam room should occur many times a day so that the people who are there can relax and cleanse themselves. Otherwise, a person will not be able to restore strength and will return home tired, with migraines and oxygen starvation. That is why the bath must be equipped with proper ventilation, because what can cope with the microclimate better than it? Neither herbs nor various incense will be able to add a couple of "usefulness" if there is no air circulation.

So, today we will talk about how ventilation is provided in the steam room with your own hands.

Improperly equipped ventilation can lead to certain consequences.

Even with good ventilation, the tree is subjected to enormous loads, so it often lasts no more than twenty years. Without fresh air the service life will be reduced several times.
If carbon dioxide is not removed from the steam room, then its use will do more harm than good. In addition to carbon dioxide, combustion products accumulate there, and fungi and mold are permanent “guests” of any room with insufficient ventilation.
If the steam room is not ventilated, then soon it will be filled with the smell of rotten wood and stale air.

Another important function of air circulation is heat transfer. The fact is that air with high humidity does not conduct heat well and as a result, the stove will only heat the space around it. That is why the ventilation inlet is usually located behind the stove, almost above the floor itself. This contributes to the fact that already heated air is distributed through the steam room; if the ventilation inlet is located in another place, it will supply cold air to the room, thereby disrupting heat transfer.

The exit must be installed on the opposite side of the entrance.

Note! A common mistake is often encountered: the entrance and exit are placed on the same level. This creates a vicious cycle that barely affects most of the room. As a result, it will be too cold below, and too hot under the ceiling.

When arranging a bath, not only the correct choice of one or another ventilation scheme is important. Of great importance is the diameter of the ventilation holes. It is calculated as follows: for every 24 cm of the hole there must be one cubic meter of the room, otherwise there will be no circulation.

It should be noted that it is desirable to equip the inlets and outlets with plugs to regulate the intensity of air exchange. Mines should be laid even during the construction of the bath.

Bath ventilation methods - which is better?

The steam room can be ventilated both by natural air movement and artificially, using a specially installed fan. Artificial ventilation is rightfully considered simpler, because it is possible to properly equip the entrance / exit only with special knowledge and considerable experience.

Note! Not every duct fan is suitable for providing artificial air ventilation. The installed model must tolerate high humidity and temperature changes well, otherwise the electronics will break, which is extremely dangerous in a conventional wooden structure, which is often a Russian bath.

The technology of arranging ventilation in the steam room

To begin with, we note that the air flow primarily depends on the furnace. So it's worth finding out how it works.

Where does the ventilation of the bath begin?

It is worth noting that the firebox can be located both in the steam room itself and in the next room. Brick or stone is used for lining the furnace. A 5 cm gap is required between the lining and the metal.

Often, a firebox is installed in the rest room - so the garbage will not accumulate, and you will not have to run to the steam room every time in order to throw firewood. And now - directly to work.

First stage. Forced ventilation

A special channel is equipped for it, located above the floor. The channel should be located near the firebox where a metal sheet is laid that protects the tree from coal.

Step one. First you need to build a special box, which would be about 1/5 more than the chimney. The box is displayed outside, and not under the floor, otherwise unpleasant odors will constantly hover in the steam room.

Note! When the firebox is located directly in the steam room, two boxes are needed at once - the second will be convection.

Step two. Next, you need to equip a special podium near the wall, in which holes are made for air flow. For this, three rows of bricks are laid out with an “edge” - one under the wall, the second in the middle, and the third at the edge.

Step three. Masonry is being made for a furnace 25 cm high up to the very brick screen, in the upper part of it (masonry) must be blocked. In place of the immediate location of the furnace, you do not need to put the last two bricks - so fresh air will go into the furnace itself. The end must be laid with a brick.

Step four. The convection box must be brought to the end. A blower is installed on its end. It is necessary to put something under it, otherwise it will constantly rub against the floor when opening / closing etc.

Step four. After the construction of the podium, you can install the oven. It's better to do it on special metal corners, which will evenly distribute the load on the box. It remains only to overlay the oven and install a screen with several holes. These holes will be ventilation, which will allow you to warm the room with hot air.

Second phase. Outflow ventilation

Technology of construction of the main heat pump we have already considered. It remains only to take care of the outflow of air. The ideal option is to install the outflow duct diagonally with respect to the inlet, which will allow you to ventilate the steam room as efficiently as possible.

Step one. If the brick shirt of one of the walls goes, for example, into the rest room, then you just need to bring out another door there. So you can kill two birds with one stone: take the air out of the steam room and heat the dressing room (of course, if the box is installed correctly).

Step two. Box construction. This box must be made with an area of 125 cm² (+ 10%) and installed approximately 30 cm above the floor surface. Next, the ventilation duct should go through the wall to the ceiling and go outside.

Note! For the construction of the structure, you can use ready-made ventilation ducts, sheathing them with clapboard after assembly. So the products will look more natural, not differing from the general background.

About heating and ventilation

If the lower doors are open during the operation of the furnace, then the air, penetrating through them, warms up and leaves the room through the upper ones (but not completely - some of it drops and heats up again). The lower door should be opened even before the oven is melted in order to ensure its “acceleration”.

At the same time, the steam room will heat up until the hot air reaches the bottom of the box, after which it will begin to squeeze out cooler air, which, in turn, goes outside and heats everything that comes in its way. This is how the steam room is ventilated and heated at the same time, and this is how proper ventilation should function.

Note! The convection doors open every time someone is in the steam room. These doors, being connected to neighboring rooms, warm them up.

As a conclusion

Few people know that when insulating a chimney in a bath, they deprive themselves of another source of heat. Of course, you should not leave a red-hot chimney in a “bare” form, you need to make a brick casing around it, building a blower door on the second row. And if you equip a second door on top, then a real heat pump will come out, which will both warm up and ventilate the room.

Video - Do-it-yourself steam room

There is already a large review material on our website, so now it’s worth talking separately about the hood in the bath: how it works, how it works and how to make it yourself.

Hood in the bath: depending on which bath

Baths are built from the most different materials, each of which has its own characteristics. This also affects the ventilation systems, which have their own characteristics in each case. We will talk about their differences in terms of organization below.

Extractor in the sauna

A sauna or a Finnish bath differs from a Russian one in a small amount of steam (this is practically a dry bath) and high temperature(which can reach up to 130 degrees!). During your stay in the sauna, there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air must be changed at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good controllability of air flows, replacing exhaust air with fresh air less than every 10 minutes.

Ideal option for a sauna, (convection type). Let us briefly repeat that it operates on the principle of an “inverted glass”:

ventilation box, standing diagonally from the oven, takes in ambient air;
brings it out through the roof (wall);
below, next to the stove, there is an inlet through which fresh air enters;
the oven heats the oxygenated air, it rises and is distributed throughout the sauna.

Flow regulation is carried out with the help of dampers that regulate the openness of the box and the inlet. An important point at the same time, the furnace is constantly working, because it is it that performs the function of a “pump”.

And even if the hood in the sauna is done according to a different scheme, the task will remain the same:

controlled frequent air exchange;
good warming up incoming fresh air;
impermissibility fast air currents (more than 0.3 m / s), i.e. drafts.

In a log cabin

The log house was invented long before the laws of physics on which natural ventilation is based took shape. Nevertheless, the builders of log baths actively used these laws so that the owners of the bath would not suffocate in the process of soaring, and the bath would stand for decades due to it. (Of course, the hood in the log cabin will not save her from a fire, but from rot - it may well.) In the log house, the air flow was provided by the lower rims, which were intentionally laid freely, that is, they had slots through which fresh air was “stretched”. In addition, the door to the steam room below did not fit snugly against the floor.

Depending on how exactly the bath from the log house was heated - “in black” or “in white” - it also depended on where the exhaust air went.

In a heated "black" bathhouse, the stove does not work during the soaring process, so an open window or door was used for outflow.
In the melted "white" bath, the outflow was carried out through the chimney. The oven was working.

In principle, nothing prevents organizing the ventilation of the log house in the traditional way today. But it is necessary to decide quickly, even at the construction stage. Because more modern solution should be included in the project. Alternatively, you can punch holes (supply and exhaust) directly onto the street and supply them with plugs or dampers. One is next to the stove blower, the second is above the upper shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top shelf. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the steam room door, and an exhaust hole under the ceiling of the shower room.

IMPORTANT! If there is no desire to make an exit to the street, you can lay air ducts, but then you will have to install a system instead of a natural one. forced ventilation.

In a foam block bath

A foam block bath is no exception to the rule that you need to think about ventilation when designing a bath. It's easier than hitting ready-made walls. In order to provide a bath of cellular concrete with sufficient air circulation, which will save the structure from excess moisture, it is necessary to lay pipe trimmings at the time of pouring the foundation formwork, which will then become air ducts.

For a bath that is not located in a lowland and is not surrounded on all sides by buildings, two air ducts on opposite sides are enough, otherwise they are made 4. Do not forget about the ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation.

The roof must also be ventilated, receiving inflow from the roof overhangs and giving air through the raised ridge. In the premises, supply and exhaust openings are made according to one of the standard schemes.

In case of insufficient natural ventilation, it is recommended to install fans on the hood from the foam block bath.

Extract for a bath: in which department?

Leaving aside the issues of ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs already discussed in other articles, there are rooms - a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a rest room - where you need to organize air circulation. At the same time, there are certain standards regarding ventilation in each of them and the specifics of the manufacture of the hood. But first things first.

Extractor in the steam room

For those who soar, the extract in the steam room of the bath is a guarantee that they will come out of there alive and healthy.

IMPORTANT! You can not leave the steam room without ventilation holes at all, this is a big risk of getting black or losing consciousness and suffocating with carbon dioxide. Can't just make one hole- so the ventilation does not work.

The method of ventilation of the steam room can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (due to fans). Openings can lead to the street, to air ducts and to neighboring rooms. On the ventilation openings, either blinds or dampers are placed. Air inflow can be organized through the bottom of the steam room door, spaced 3 cm from the floor or with blinds at the bottom of the door leaf.

With your own hands you will have to make only a box. Everything else (corrugation, valves, gate valves, dampers) is on sale. Fans (if needed) vary in diameter and power. Relays can be used to automatically control forced ventilation. Holes in the wall are either left during construction, or they make their way in an already built bath.

Useful video

See how the craftsmen made a box for extracting ventilation from the boards:

In the washing

According to the already mentioned standards, the air circulation in the washing room per hour should be a multiple of 8 room volumes for supply ventilation and 9 - for the hood. It means:

that the dimensions of the exhaust opening will be more inlet;
or exhaust will be two on one supply;
or put on the hood fan.

In any case, this is an intensive air exchange, which is intended primarily for quickly draining the car wash. During the washing process, it is not required, so it is regulated by dampers.

By the way, air inlets can be made in the dressing room or rest room, and exhaust holes in the washing room. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the hood is done in the bathroom, and forced to create low pressure. Then the air will be drawn from the neighboring rooms and leave through the forced exhaust. Thus, the rooms are connected through holes, which on the one hand will be supply, and on the other - exhaust.

The components of the hood in the washing bath do not differ from those used in the steam room.

How to make an extract in the bath

This has been said many times before, but it's worth repeating: the cost of arranging ventilation will increase many times if it is done late after completion of construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bath remains unchanged: it is necessary to create conditions for the inflow and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in the bath with your own hands or the hands of professionals.

Hood in the bath: scheme

There are many schemes, but any one is suitable for understanding the principle of ventilation. Most often, ventilation schemes for the steam room are offered, but the scheme for the entire bath, with explanations, is of much greater interest.

Look at the sketch. It shows that ventilation is carried out in the washing room, steam room and rest room. Moreover, the air flow is carried out from one pipe to two points, one of which is located in the steam room, and the second - in the rest room. The hood is located in the washing room, and in the steam room, and in the rest room. Let's describe all the ventilation devices in each room:

washing- a window made of metal-plastic, an adjustable hood that takes air through a diffuser located on the ceiling. From there, the air escapes through a pipe to the roof.
steam room- an insulated window located below the shelf, an adjustable hood, which is a vertical box, the intake hole of which is 150 cm² located below the shelf, and the exit from the pipe to the street is near the ceiling. One of the channels of regulated inflow near the stove, cross-sectional area 150 cm².
Restroom- adjustable hood, which is a box with a cross section of 150 cm², the height of the intake hole is 30-40 cm from the floor, exit through the pipe to the street near the ceiling. Regulated inflow through the second channel with an exit near a furnace fire chamber.

DIY: how to do it right

Do-it-yourself exhaust in the bath is not something that cannot be done, but you need to approach the matter prudently and slowly. In order to independently make the hood, you need to prepare materials according to it. It is also necessary to calculate the cross section of the ventilation pipes.

IMPORTANT! The inflow volume must be equal to or less than the exhaust volume.

To do this, you need to know the volume of the room and the multiplicity factor (how many times the air should be updated per hour) - it is in the regulations. In the main air ducts, the speed of movement should not exceed 5 m / s, in the branches - 3 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m / s. Further in the table we find the value of the pipe section, which most closely gives the desired volume at a given speed.

Knowing the cross section, it remains to prepare a corrugation or pipes of the appropriate diameter, which at one end are mounted indoors at the desired height according to the scheme, and with the other they go outside. For fastening, self-tapping screws, metal tape and polyurethane foam. The openings are supplied with shutters in the room, gratings at the exit. By the way, ventilation should be cleaned once a year..

Useful video

Watch a short video showing ventilation in one bath:

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Well, now you know exactly how to properly draw a hood in the bath in order to save yourself, your household and guests from suffocation in the bath. It remains only to correctly apply the information received.

In contact with

Often to ensure ventilation can be limited to aeration. It is necessary to make holes with dampers, it is advisable to choose the recommended places so that the air circulation is soft and constantly maintained. If necessary, you can use forced air exchange systems.

Above the oven

Opening for outside air equipped above the heater. An outlet is made in the opposite wall, it should be lower than the entrance. The warm stream will rise as a jet of cold air and exit through the hole. Due to the constant exit of warm air, cold air cannot enter through the outlet.

Behind the oven

The air inlet can be positioned at the bottom of the wall behind the stove. The stove will heat the incoming, cold air, so there will be no drafts or sudden temperature changes. Output channels can be built in the floor. They can pass through the underground, passing into the ventilation pipe that leads the air to the street. The air outflow created according to this scheme saves heat, helps to reduce heating costs, and gives comfort to those in the bath. The main advantage is the additional heating of the subfloor. It dries well, so mold and various fungi do not grow in it.

Under the stove

The hole is being made next to the stove as low as possible. When cold air passes by the stove, it heats up, so it rises. Exit holes are made in the corner opposite the furnace. To create the first, you need to measure 1 meter from the floor, and the second is built under the ceiling. They are connected by a ventilation box, which can be brought to the roof, for example, through the attic.

Hood under the floor

The hole for the forced draft must be equipped from the back of the oven. From the level of the heater, it should rise by 1.5 m. The hood is installed under the floor, at a distance of about 30 cm. A fan is mounted in the exhaust hole. All incoming air will be heated absolutely evenly. First, the air masses are heated from the furnace, rise up. After cooling, they rush down, go out into the street. To keep warm for a longer time, you need to make the exhaust hole as low as possible.

Other popular options

If there is no other possibility, you can make an air inlet anywhere on the wall near the stove, and the outlet is also in a free location, but in the opposite wall. To speed up air circulation, you can install a fan for the outlet.
The location of the inlet and outlet openings on the same wall opposite from the furnace. The air will enter through the one built at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exit through the one installed 30 cm from the ceiling. This scheme is great for baths with only one external wall.
The inlet is placed at a distance of 30 cm from the floor behind the stove, and the outlet is also at a height of 30 cm, but on the opposite side.
Option for baths with a continuous cycle. The blower of the heater is used as an exhaust hood, so there is a need to equip only one hole for air inflow. It must be placed opposite the brazier at the height of its level.

One of the main elements of ventilation for the bath is a chimney. Warm air escapes better through a chimney than through ventilation holes. To freshen the air as quickly as possible, you need to open the chimney along with the equipped holes.

The temperature in the bath should not be allowed to drop lower than the street temperature. In this case, there is a risk of smoke in the room in which the stove is located, usually a steam room. Cooled air forms a plug, it can be released by opening all dampers on the ventilation openings, connecting the chimney. Sometimes you have to use a special opening for ash disposal.

Video on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself steam bath ventilation

In the steam room, it is desirable to install a stove-heater. It provides the main ventilation system. Air from the steam room passes through the blower, so its circulation is already well ensured. A blower is used instead of a special exhaust device. For maximum air outflow the oven must be installed at a level lower than the finished floor. To start ventilation, you only have to slightly open front door or a window. disadvantage this method ventilation is to maintain it only during the burning of the furnace. If the device is inoperative, the hood stops completely.

In addition to the stove-heater, ventilation in the bath is maintained with extra holes(see photo below). They need to be closed with bars. To regulate the air exchange in the steam room, it is enough just to open or close the shutters. After each park, airing the room is necessary, so you should open the holes for a while. If this is not done, the air will remain humid, heavy, and there is also a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning due to its high content.

When the steam room only heats up, the stove is heated, you need to make sure that the holes are tightly closed. When the room is warm enough, they can be opened. In order to avoid the formation of reverse draft, it is necessary to provide at the construction stage that the area of exhaust openings exceeds the supply ones. Steam accumulates at the very top, to lower it, you can spray water on the floor in small quantities. To quickly lower the steam, you can also wave the broom or towel in different directions.

If the stove is not installed directly in the steam room, then a different ventilation method is used. A supply hole is made near the heater at a height of 30 cm from the floor. On the wall opposite from it, an exhaust is made, placing it 30 cm down from the ceiling.

Sometimes the inlet is placed behind the stove at the bottom of the wall. The air coming from the street is warmed by the stove, so the room cools moderately. On the opposite wall to the stove, you need to form 2 openings. They will make up one exhaust duct. The first opening is made at a distance of 1 m from the floor, and the second under the ceiling. The air is expelled through the hood to the roof.

With the device of such ventilation, the steam room is quickly warmed up, while fuel is saved. The smell of mustiness in the room is prevented, as the subfloor dries well.

natural ventilation

To get fresh air into the bath, you need to make a small opening in the wall, located at a distance of about 50 cm from the stove. A retractable damper is equipped for it, which allows you to adjust the amount of incoming air. Too high an arrangement is not reasonable, since the hottest air rises to the ceiling. To use the heat from the stove to the maximum, you need to make a hole in the middle of the wall. If the hole is too low, the thrust will be minimal. In order for it to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe or purchase a fan.

Forced ventilation

To get as much fresh air into the steam room as possible, openings should be placed diametrically to each other. If forced air outflow is used, it is desirable to make the supply hole higher than the exhaust one. If it is possible to construct ventilation system, at which the air flow enters from below, heats up from the stove, rises up, and then goes outside, then the installation of additional fans is not required.

When using fans Do not place both the supply and exhaust openings at the same level. The air supply may be blocked, which will lead to the concentration of cooled air masses bottom, while the top will be too hot.

It is undesirable to have an exhaust opening in the ceiling. When the incoming air goes up, you will have to spend a lot of time on sufficient heating of the room. Warm air quickly rises, mixing little with cold air, and quickly leaves the bath. You can take the air up in the dressing room, if the goal is to heat it from the steam room.

Cross section of openings for ventilation should be related to the total area of \u200b\u200bthe bath or steam room separately. Do not make holes too small. If the ventilation is insufficient, it will take a long time to update the air, it may become too humid, and mustyness will appear.

Scheme of ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath.

Washroom ventilation

As in the steam room, a large accumulation of moisture is also noted in the washing bath. To avoid constantly damp air, leading to the appearance of fungi and mold, it is necessary to ensure its timely removal to the outside. A lot of water often accumulates under the floor, so an asbestos pipe is often sufficient for good ventilation. It can be placed in a corner. One end of the pipe is placed under the finishing floor, and the other is brought to the roof, it must be equipped with a deflector.

The construction of moderate, adjustable ventilation allows you to keep the bathhouse dry, maintain a moderate temperature, get rid of humidity, and constantly inhale renewed, fresh air. Ventilation regulates the direction and location of the air inlet and outlet openings, outlet carbon monoxide, provides savings on fuel for the furnace.

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

It is not easy to create an oasis of harmony among hot steam, a flowing river of shower water or mini-pools. The operation of the bath requires compliance with some subtleties even at the construction stage. So that high humidity does not spoil the structure, and stale air does not interfere with bathing procedures, it is necessary to choose and make ventilation correctly.

Ventilation in the bath - scheme and device

The inflow and outflow of air is the most important condition, since air exchange is based on the balance of supply ventilation (fresh air) and exhaust ventilation - exhaust air. The movement of the air flow can occur in a natural, forced or combined way. From right choice ventilation system will depend on the level of air humidity, circulation flow, heat transfer. If the ventilation scheme and device are violated in the bath, the microclimate will be disturbed, it will be difficult to breathe, and mold will appear on the walls. Here are some expert tips to help you avoid this:

The exhaust outlet must be higher than the inlet, because cold air is heavier than warm air.
It is not recommended to make an exhaust hole on the ceiling, as this place warms up more slowly than others.
The classic location of the inlet is near the stove and close to the floor.
The ventilation of the bath should be built according to the principle: the inlet openings are located on the opposite wall from the exhaust ones, while dampers should be installed on the latter.

Steam room ventilation

To choose the right system, extending the life of the building and finishing materials, you should understand the features of each type, and the steam room ventilation is of the following types:

According to the principle of work	Peculiarities	Is it suitable for a bath?
Natural	The convection flow is formed due to the pressure difference between the street and the room, and the location of the supply and exhaust openings will interfere with normal heating.
Combined	Use of devices for drawing air; the lack of strict recommendations for the placement of vents makes this one of the best methods.
Mechanical	The supply of fresh air, the temperature is maintained by special devices, but with all the convenience, the disadvantage of this method is the high cost.

Ventilation in the dressing room

The steam room, with its high temperature, is often surrounded by functional spaces. To dry the elements of the situation, to maintain comfortable conditions, to ensure the flow of oxygen-enriched air - these are the main functions of ventilation in the dressing room. If the steam room is used all year round, then you need to take care of the installation of the fan, the ideal option is a forced (mechanical) system with exhaust air output through the toilet or washing department. The natural way - open doors and windows wide open - is an unreliable way to ventilate the dressing room.

Ventilation in the bath sink

Correctly installing the stove, distributing the flow of cold and warm air is just as important as taking care of other bath procedures. The desire to wash, rinsing with water, will require a careful approach to arranging this place. So that dampness does not accumulate under the floor or in the walls, ventilation is needed in the washing department of the bath. The easiest option is to make a combined steam room and sink, and if these rooms are separate, then special equipment will be required to remove condensate.

Ventilation in the rest room

After active bathing procedures, when the superheated steam air relaxes the muscles, you want to relax. The ventilation device in the rest room of the bath is almost no different from general principles. At small size rooms where there are a couple of shelves, and in the absence of contact with water, you can periodically arrange a draft. If the room is large, then ventilation is necessary for the bath. combined type. Among the latest technical developments, it is better to give preference to compact devices - ventilators.

Ventilation in a frame bath

Wooden floors will rot in a couple of years if you do not take care of the ventilation system and drying. Even antiseptic treatment will not cope with this in the same way as ventilation in frame bath supplying fresh air. The layout of the natural ventilation system includes: channels, a pipe from the furnace, a through recess, vents, doors. The vent in the bath is located on top, closer to the roof, while to regulate the flow it must be equipped with a valve or damper. Forced ventilation in a frame bath is used where only one of the walls is external.

Extractor hood in a log cabin

From wooden beam it turns out a traditional Russian steam room, and if the vents are correctly positioned, then the direction of the air flow will create comfortable conditions. To ensure complete ventilation, the hood in the log cabin bath will still have to be equipped. The classic version involves the device of a natural air exchange scheme. The peculiarity of the blower of the stove, the damper with the valve for the chimney, the fastening of the fans to speed up the air exchange - all this is necessary to prevent the formation of a layer of condensate and draft.

How to make ventilation in the bath

Even at the construction stage, it will be necessary to provide for the creation of a ventilation system. How to make a hood in the bath to maintain the microclimate? The logs of a traditional steam room are laid with a gap, so the cracks in the log house allow fresh air to pass through, and you can ventilate with a draft. The ventilation system in a brick bath, foam block or other modern building materials, will require the laying of a ventilation system with the required number of supply and exhaust openings before the construction of the building begins. Preference should be given to a combined or mechanical scheme.

Bastu ventilation

In order for dry steam to give hot hugs, to heat floors and protect walls from rot, bastu ventilation is installed as follows:

Special holes are not needed in the foundation of the building, you can make a wooden floor with slots. Equip the room glass door with three canopies, a good seal, a latch on magnets.
Install an electric convection type oven, which will ensure the circulation of air flows according to the principle of an inverted glass.
Make the inflow under the stove, and the exhaust hole - under the shelf 30 cm from the floor. Warm air will rise up the duct under the lining and be discharged outside through a hole that should be made on the opposite wall from the inflow (diagonally and as far as possible).
Warm air will fill the steam room, pushing cold air down. If you make a channel with an adjacent room, then the steam room will give off part of the heat to it.

Sauna ventilation

It is necessary to lay the foundations of the ventilation system at the construction stage, because reworking the finished building will cost more. A brief instruction for designing a bath ventilation system looks like this:

A free arrangement of vents is allowed, therefore a combined or mechanical system, including hoods for a bath, is suitable.
For a continuous supply of fresh air, make an outlet at the level of half a meter from the floor near the stove, and an exhaust hole on the opposite wall.
Be sure to install adjustable dampers (shutter, gate) on the inlet and outlet to maintain the microclimate.

Ventilation in the Russian bath

In order for natural ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath to contribute to a healing effect, the following scheme must be followed when arranging:

Take care of the possibility of ventilation: window, door, air vents.
The upper levels of the window and door should match, and above is the place for the heat pocket. For volley ventilation of small steam rooms, simple ventilation is enough to quickly renew the air.
A stove with a chimney is a natural exhaust for a bath: the exhaust air will go up the duct, and the inflow will be through the slots at the bottom of the door.
For air exchange, equip air ducts: an exhaust hole under the ceiling, equip it with a door (damper), and make an inflow next to the stove and install a ventilation grill.

Video: how to make ventilation in the bath

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It is definitely impossible to answer the question of whether plastic ventilation is possible in a bathhouse. Such systems have proven their practicality and performance in domestic and industrial environments, but the bathing environment has its own specifics, which to a certain extent limits the use of plastic. When choosing plastic products for a bath in each case, it should be approached taking into account all the influencing factors and possible consequences.

In the bath, plastic pipes for ventilation in the bath can be used.

Reasons for the popularity of plastic

Ventilation structures made of plastic elements gained wide popularity in various areas of human life. This is facilitated by their attractive appearance and numerous advantages over traditional metal competitors.

Note! Parts made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane and polypropylene find the greatest application.

The following positive sides plastic ventilation:

No corrosion. This advantage most often determines the choice of plastic. Any metal (even stainless steel) in ventilation systems where steam condensate occurs, aggressive effects various substances polluting the air, prone to corrosion. Plastic, on the other hand, is absolutely resistant in this regard.
Low cost. Plastic systems have significantly more low price compared to metal, which provides increased resistance to corrosion.
Ease and quality of installation. When installing metal boxes and pipes, there are always problems in the places of knocks, requiring rolling, welding, and other operations. Cutting and joining plastic elements does not cause difficulties, and the ends are easily processed and aligned. Thus, the sealing of plastic boxes is much easier to ensure.
Light weight. This advantage is provided by the ease of fastening at the installation site and transportation when delivering the goods.
Plastic elements are resistant to water, steam, aggressive media, ultraviolet rays. They fit all sanitary standards under normal conditions.

Device PVC pipes for ventilation

Features of the use in the bath

In order to decide whether plastic ventilation is suitable for a bath, it is necessary to note the disadvantages of such systems:

Low heat resistance of plastic. Already at temperatures above 80-85 degrees, the release of harmful components from a substance that poisons the human body begins. When heated, the plastic loses its strength and rigidity, which leads to deformation.
Low impact resistance open fire. Despite the fact that PVC does not support combustion, it is easily melted, and its drops, falling on other structures, cause a fire. In general, plastic elements belong to the group of flammable materials, which requires great care when placing them near sauna stove and chimney. Even with a small fire, a large amount of acrid smoke is released, which is very dangerous for humans.
Reduced resistance to cutting, abrasion, scratching. Under impact and cutting loads, plastic is easily damaged or deformed.

Given the problems outlined, it can be concluded whether plastic ventilation is suitable for a bath. Most extreme conditions noted in the steam room. In the Russian bath, a temperature of about 60-65 degrees is maintained here with saturated water vapor. Such temperatures seem to be below acceptable, but they are close to critical values, and at the slightest excess lead to the decomposition of plastic. Thus, the use of plastic ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath is dangerous for human health. It is absolutely unacceptable to use it in the sauna steam room, where the temperature can reach 100 degrees.

The smoke from burning plastic is very corrosive and can lead to poisoning.

In other bath rooms (washing room, dressing room, rest room), the air temperature does not have large values, and extreme conditions are associated with high humidity, which is not at all dangerous for plastic. Therefore, we can conclude that ventilation in a bath made of plastic pipes is quite acceptable in all rooms, except for the steam room.

Important! Particular attention should be paid to the location of the stove and its chimney, near which the air temperature can be critical. In addition, there are fire hazards.

Particular care must be taken with the location plastic pipe for ventilation in the bath. It is better to place it behind a brick lining if it is near the stove.

Design features

The standard set of bath forced ventilation includes the following main elements: fan (exhaust and supply); ventilation pipes and ducts; vents with plugs; connecting and accessories. Among the important components, the following stand out:

turns: designed to change the direction of the ventilation duct;
adapters: necessary when connecting route elements of different sizes;
bifurcations and tees: are installed if it is necessary to divide the incoming air flow into several rooms;
couplings: connecting and holding elements;
flanges and gearboxes.

Forced ventilation is based on exhaust-type fans installed on the outlet duct, or the supply version, designed to suck in fresh air from outside and form an air flow. The supply system is most often used, and the fan can be installed alone to service all rooms or several devices separately in each room. In the first case, a sufficiently powerful mechanism is mounted, usually with metal blades, and the flow distribution then goes through the plastic ventilation ducts. Small fans in a plastic case with plastic blades can be installed in each room.

Plastic fans are used in the exhaust bath

Plastic air ducts for ventilation of the bath of the type in question are an important part of the system. They distribute the incoming air flow and direct it to the desired zone.

Another option is to install exhaust fan not in the outlet vent, but directly in the most stagnant area. In this case, it is mounted at the end of an exhaust duct, through which the polluted air is directed outside.

Plastic boxes and pipes are produced in various shapes and sizes. In cross section, they can be round and rectangular, and in design - smooth and corrugated. Most often, the input powerful air flow is directed into rectangular boxes, and then distributed through round pipes.

Nuance! The corrugated design is used in places where pipe movements in different directions are needed, or for fitting elements along the length.

Types of composite connecting elements of the ventilation system

Air ducts have different sizes, which are selected depending on the required power of the system and the volume of incoming air. Round pipes for a bath have a standard diameter in the range of 56-160 mm. Among rectangular ducts, air ducts 6x12 and 6x20.5 cm in size are most common. Corrugated elements usually have a round shape, and the diameter of such a pipe ranges from 15-55 cm.

Plastic air ducts for ventilation come in round and rectangular shapes

Additional elements

In addition to these elements used in the installation of the ventilation system in the bath, plastic parts are used that perform protective and regulatory functions. These include various dampers, hatches and gratings.

Plastic grills may have different purpose. The following main varieties are distinguished:

inertial type: for flow separation without pressurization;
adjustable grilles: allow you to change the volume of incoming air and distribution in one direction while blocking the movement of air in the other;
unregulated type: distribution or flow restrictions without the possibility of regulation;
external protective grids: to prevent foreign bodies from entering the channel.

Extraction grates can be of an adjustable type

Plastic hatches can be installed in powerful, branched systems for access to the ventilation line for revision, cleaning, repair. They can be mounted on the ceiling or walls of the bath. Damper doors are designed to allow access to natural flow. They can be mounted on the natural ventilation vents in the window or door. Standard sizes- 10x10, 15x30 and 25x60 cm.

Arrangement features

Installation of plastic ventilation in the bath can be done by hand. The main stages of work: the manufacture of vents; installation of fans; installation and fixing of the input box; installation and fixing of the branching system of incoming air flows; arrangement of the outlet vent; installation of shutters and hatches.

When carrying out work, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

The plastic elements are connected to each other by soldering. In the presence of threaded elements, sockets, flanges, adapters, couplings are used, which makes it possible to provide a collapsible system.
A special sealant is used to seal the joints.
Cutting elements or changing their shape is done with a knife or a special hacksaw.

Connection diagram of the fan section in compulsory system ventilation

For installation work you will need the following tools: an electric drill, a screwdriver, a grinder, a knife, a hacksaw, pliers and side cutters, a screwdriver, a paint brush, a tape measure, a metal ruler.

Before use, it is necessary to check the ventilation system in the bath

Plastic ventilation in the bath can be installed in all rooms, except for the steam room. Plastic cannot be used in it because of the risk of harmful emissions when heated. You can easily install the system with your own hands.