Do-it-yourself carpentry clamps at home. Do-it-yourself tape clamp. Clamp for winding the wire on the mandrel

With its square nested design, shield making is a very common task in carpentry. In fact, trees of such thickness as to cut out of them, let's say, a countertop, are not so common and there are not enough of them for everyone. Moreover, wide boards are often specially chopped into small parts and glued again. This greatly reduces the likelihood of their warping and cracking in their subsequent, furniture incarnation.

The gluing process itself contains a number of important points - the thickness, the orientation of the layers, the thickness of the glue, which will be discussed later, now, we are talking about a mechanism for convenient compression of pre-prepared wooden blanks. This is a specialized clamp - wyma. To glue one shield, use at least two clamps.

Here it should be said that there is a way to fasten blanks with such “teeth”, which allows increasing the bonding area and, accordingly, its strength. Practice, however, shows that since the use of "samovar" wood glue from dry tiles, the chemical industry has stepped far forward, and now, any gluing of even ends is stronger than the main tree. In any case, their coniferous varieties, from which shields are usually glued. Therefore, planing is quite enough.

So here are the options.

Analysis of existing analogues.

The decision "on the forehead". It is more convenient than gluing directly on the workbench, but not by much. The only plus is the simplicity of the design. The base, however, must be very rigid, especially when, however significant the length may be.

When gluing, additional simple carpentry clamps and an even rail along the width of the shield are required to prevent it from bending under load. Nevertheless, with infrequent work, the design is fully justified, some complication of the technology can be experienced.

symmetrical design. In general, it follows logically from the previous one, simple. End stops are movably attached to two even sidewalls. When an axial force is applied, the sidewalls are simultaneously compressed.

Several options for end stops.

The blue version, in addition to painting, is notable for the fact that most of the details are standard - large hardware, a rectangular pipe.

There was even a kind of DIY kit. "Teeth" for stepwise change in the width of the workpiece, will make it easier to push the mechanism onto the workpiece. The most dimensional and inconvenient parts in storage and transportation are proposed to be made independently from solid wood. Therefore, the set, presumably, is worth a penny.

Practice, however, shows - how not to be careful, there will still be glue on the clamps, which can be torn off from the glands without damaging them, even in very rough ways, up to the use of angle grinders. Wooden parts, however, will either have to be protected with rough wood gaskets, or simply changed often. Either way, it's not very convenient.

Homemade metal analogue.

It can be seen that special stops are not provided here, therefore, in order not to spoil the edges of the future shield with dents, a technological gasket made of wood is placed.

Less obvious clamp design - asymmetric. The solution is ingenious, simple and elegant.

Our answer to Chamberlain.

MASHKOV: Astronauts! Which zappa is here?
BI: There, a rusty nut, dear.
MASHKOV: Everything here is rusty!
BI: And this one is the most rusty one.

Kin-Dza-Dza!

I offer my version of symmetrical clamps. The clamps are made without the use of stationary equipment - only with a hand tool. Electric welding was used a little, but this was more from the delight of a neophyte - in those days, he was just mastering a welding inverter and applied a new skill wherever possible.

The materials were only standard hardware and two types of rolled metal - a rectangular pipe and a strip. Four identical wyms were made, with their help, many different blanks were glued together, both of a purely utilitarian nature and for decorative ones.

The size of the clamps is for boards of moderate size, with a maximum width of about 700 ... 750 mm, however, you can connect the clamps in pairs and glue the boards of fair sizes in two steps. The length of the shield, depending on the number of clamps and with four pieces, can reach 1 ... 1.5 m. A number of symmetrical holes on the sides of the clamp allows you to easily rearrange its back stop, for convenient work when tightening narrow shields.

The design of the upper screw clamp is simple and technological, the materials for it are also standard rolled metal and hardware, which is a great advantage in the absence of access to machine tools.

The body of the screw clamp is made of a segment of the same rectangular pipe 40x25, inside it, an M12 extension nut is placed.

The nut is held only by the threaded stud and the body walls, the narrow side of the body prevents the nut from turning. When unscrewing the stud, the nut simply falls out of the housing. The solution is very maintainable - in case of damage to the thread, the elements are easily replaced with standard inexpensive hardware.

The back stop is also made of a piece of pipe 40x25 mm, held by two pairs of earrings. To compensate for the thickness of the "overlap", under one of the pairs, two standard M10 washers are placed on each side (see photo below).

"Compensation" washers.

What was used to work.

Tools, equipment.

A set of ordinary locksmith tools, a good vise, a hand electric drill. Marking tool - tape measure, square, scriber or alcohol felt-tip pen. For cutting pieces of iron - angle grinder. An electric grinder will come in handy. Welding was used in some places, but you can do without. When working with power tools, be sure to wear safety goggles and earplugs.

Materials.

Rectangular pipe 40x25, strip, threaded stud M12, bolts, nuts, washers M10.

Let's get started. Sidewalls.

We determine the required number of clamps and purchase the necessary materials.

We cut pieces of a rectangular pipe, mark, mark the centers of the holes. If you have a machine, you can drill from one side, through, but if you work with a hand tool, it is better not to be too lazy and additionally mark-drill the reverse side. Holes in metal, of a relatively large diameter, are best drilled at low speeds. It is convenient to work with a hammer drill in drilling mode, while its clamp is supplied with a small three-jaw drill chuck with a simple adapter. Often, such equipment is included in the puncher kit. High power and low speed, make the work of such a tool very convenient.

After cutting and drilling, do not forget to dull the sharp edges.

We cut, we mark, we drill. I marked rounded edges without fuss - applying a suitable coin. We grind the edges on the grinder, dull the sharp edges. Magic file, in a vise.

Earring. 8 pcs. Material - a strip of 20x5 mm.

Screw clamp, back stop.

I cut the threaded studs to the required length, welded a long “connecting” nut to one of the ends.

Sketch of the screw clamp, where: 1.2 - extension nut M12; 3 - body (pipe 40x25 mm); 4 - threaded stud M12.

In the absence of access to welding work, a screwed nut can be drilled and a transverse toggle lever with stops can be threaded into it, in the manner of a vise gate. The rest is obvious.

Carrying out locksmith or carpentry work in places not equipped for this is inevitably associated with the problem of fixing workpieces. It is very difficult to prevent them from moving around the table or workbench during processing, unless they are equipped with special clamps, vices or other fixing devices. One of these devices, simple, affordable and versatile, are clamps. We will tell you what they are and how they are used, as well as give detailed instructions for making reliable clamps with your own hands.

What is the tool for, its device and types of tool

Clamp refers to additional carpentry and metalwork tools. The main purpose of the clamps is to fix the workpiece on the support surface or several workpieces for gluing them together, therefore, the design of the tool must include at least two elements: the support surface and a movable jaw equipped with a locking mechanism. The movement of the movable jaw is carried out, as a rule, with the help of a screw or a lever, which makes it possible to increase compression and prevent reverse movement during operation. Depending on the specialization and design features, the following types of clamps are distinguished:

1. Screw G-shaped - the most common, they are distinguished by their simplicity of design and relatively low cost. Represented by a metal bracket, on one side of which there is a supporting surface, and on the other, a threaded eye with an adjusting screw screwed into it. The inner part of the screw is equipped with a working sponge, the outer part is equipped with a handle. The tool is effective when working with heavy, large workpieces of a simple shape.

   Clamps of this type are suitable for working with large workpieces.

2. F-shaped - more versatile, their supporting surface is fixedly fixed on a long rod, along which the working block with a sponge slides. Movement and fixation of the block is provided by an auxiliary screw or a step-by-step pressing mechanism.

   Objects are fixed due to the auxiliary screw and step mechanism

3. Pipe - allow you to fix large-sized workpieces by varying the length of the pipe. They consist of two separate elements - a base plate with a screw clamp and a sponge sliding along the pipe.

   Clamp suitable for working with overall workpieces

4. Corner - designed to simplify the joining of workpieces at a right angle, for which they have two supporting and working surfaces. They are divided into two subspecies. The first involves the presence of two clamping screws located perpendicular to each other; the second is equipped with one screw with a double-sided angle block at the end. Very rarely there are specialized clamps that allow you to place workpieces at an acute or obtuse angle.

   Clamps of this type simplify the docking of workpieces at right angles.

   Angle clamp with double-sided angle block

5. Tape - equipped with a flexible element and several sponges floating on it. By fixing the jaws in certain places of the tape and adjusting its tension, it is possible to process workpieces of complex shape.

   The tape clamp is equipped with a tape element that allows you to fix the workpiece around the perimeter

6. Pincer - consist of two hinged parts and a spacer spring. In practice, they are rarely used due to the relatively low reliability of the joint, however, they provide the maximum speed of installation and removal of the workpiece.

   Such a clamp is rarely used due to the low reliability of the joint.

At home, clamps of the first three types are most often made, since they are not too demanding on materials and production technologies, and also allow you to solve most household tasks that require the use of auxiliary tools.

You will find more information about the types of clamps in our next material:

How to make a carpentry clamp with your own hands: step by step instructions with drawings

To make clamps at home, it is enough to have basic plumbing and carpentry skills. The materials used are wooden beams, rolled metal, pipes and fasteners, in particular, bolts, studs, nuts, pins. For joining the metal parts of the clamps, it is desirable to have an electric welding machine. When performing any work, the main thing is to follow the instructions and observe safety precautions.

Making a screw type tool

This type of clamp will help to fix wood workpieces well.

A clamp made according to this technique is perfect for fixing small wooden blanks - plywood, fiberboard, OSB and chipboard sheets, as well as boards and thin timber. We suggest that you choose the scale yourself, but otherwise it is better not to deviate from the following sequence of actions:

1. Transfer the templates of all wooden parts to thick paper or cardboard in accordance with the selected scale.
2. Using the template, transfer the image to a suitable board width. It is better to use not pine boards, but harder wood.
3. Using a jigsaw, cut out all the details. Correct the shape with a file, and sand the surface with sandpaper.
4. In the "jaws" mark and drill holes for the axle bolt. Lengthen the hole of the upper “jaw” with a round file so that its length is 1.5–2.5 of the bolt diameter.
5. In the handle, drill a hole for the nut, with a diameter corresponding to the number of the wrench. With a needle file, give it a hexagonal shape. Install the nut inward with epoxy or cyanoacrylate.
6. Assemble the clamp - fix the axial bolt in the lower “jaw” with glue, install the rear loop on the screws, put on the upper jaw and, placing the washer, install the handle. Stick soft pads on work surfaces.

An even simpler option is to make a screw clamp from a hacksaw.

A simple version of a hacksaw clamp

In this case, it is enough to weld a support platform at one end of its arc, and a nut at the other, into which an adjusting screw with a sponge and a handle will be installed.

Homemade quick clamp made of wood

Making such a clamp will take more time

The use of F-shaped clamps significantly speeds up the workflow. But the manufacture of the clamp itself is somewhat more complicated than the creation of its screw counterpart. You will need to do the following:

1. Transfer the images to the lumber as described above. Accurately observe the specified dimensions of the parts and the location of the pin holes.
2. Cut out the details with a jigsaw, use it to make a narrow slot in the movable sponge and deep slots for the axle plate. Using chisels, select the groove for the cam lever.
3. Drill holes for the pins. Treat all external and internal surfaces of the parts with a file, and then with sandpaper.
4. From a metal strip with a grinder, cut the axial plate, grind it. Drill holes for the pins.
5. Assemble the tool by placing the jaws on the plate using the pins. Insert the cam into the movable jaw. Stick on work pads.
6. Check the function of the quick release clamp. If necessary, change the shape of the working part of the cam lever.

Rough fixation of the lower jaw on the axle plate can be done by wedging its guide pins, inserting an additional pin, screw clamp or in another way.

Video: making a quick clamp

Metal pipe

For the manufacture of such a clamp, a metal pipe is required.

For such a tool, you will need three metal rings, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the outer diameter of the pipe you have, instead of which, by the way, you can use a metal rod. In the presence of a welding machine, the process of manufacturing a clamp is reduced to the following algorithm:

1. Weld support pads to two rings, which can be made from a steel corner; install a nut on the third ring, and weld the ring itself to the end of the pipe.
2. Weld an impromptu handle made of a metal rod to the head of a long bolt, screw the bolt into a ring with a nut.
3. From the free end of the pipe, put the ring of the upper movable sponge on it. In the ring of the lower jaw, make holes for the fixing pins.
4. Install the lower ring on the pipe.

The pipe clamp is optimally suited for holding furniture elements during its assembly, it will be convenient in construction and installation work and other similar operations.

Video: homemade pipe clamp

corner

For the manufacture of this type of clamp, you can use wood, metal or duralumin. Between themselves, they differ not only in material, but also in clamping force and the size of the fixed workpiece. Our following material provides detailed instructions for making tools:

Both in everyday life and in professional activities related to the processing of wood and metal, clamps will become an indispensable assistant. By following the instructions and having a simple set of materials, you can make this tool with your own hands.

Wooden clamp, drawing, assembly diagram of a product that is used to clamp parts before further processing.

The product includes the following elements:

fixed stop
movable stop
guide rail
clamping screw handle

STOPPERS

The stops are made of four wooden planks or moisture-resistant plywood, which are glued together.

1. The rear wall of the through hole - 12 x 10 x 50 (mm).
2. The front wall of the through hole - 12 x 50 x 100 (mm).
3. The left side wall of the through hole - 4 x 50 x 150 (mm).
4. The right side wall of the through hole - 4 x 50 x 150 (mm).
5. Wooden dowel - 4 x 20 (mm).

Before gluing the parts, we put the guide rail inside the wooden planks, crimp the rail on all sides with the planks, fix the planks and carefully remove the rail.
After the glue dries, we drill through holes in the resulting workpiece and insert wooden dowels into them, having previously treated the surfaces with glue.

According to the drawing, as shown in the figure, cut out the outline of the stop.

We drill holes in the fixed stop:

Under rail mounting
for M12 thread.

We cut the thread M12.
Smooth out the sharp edges of the part.

GUIDE RAIL

As a latch of the movable stop, you can use a regular metal pin, which is inserted into the end hole in the upper part with glue.

CLAMP SCREW-HANDLE

Consists of six parts:

1. Clamp.
2. Screw.
3. Pen.
4. Screw M5 with a cylindrical head and a hexagonal recess.
5. Spring washer 5.
6. Enlarged washer A.5

The screw and clamp will be made of metal with anti-corrosion coating.
Before assembly, apply a thin layer of lubricant to the rubbing parts.
We will connect the handle and the screw with glue.

The figure shows the option of fastening the part to with a wooden clamp.

The compressible part is located between the movable and fixed stops. With a movable stop, we press the part against the workbench table, then by rotating the handle we press it, creating the necessary force that can keep the part from moving during its processing.

Before assembling the structure, the wooden parts must be treated with fine sandpaper, soak the treated surface with an antiseptic, then apply a decorative paintwork.

For a stronger clamping of workpieces, you must use.

Novice woodworking enthusiasts will find our instructions with a sequentially described process for the manufacture of carpentry clamps of several varieties will be useful. In it, we will tell you what materials to use for this and how to make a device that is exactly suitable for your own needs.

Materials for body, stop and jaws

In carpentry, clamps are used to securely and carefully hold several parts together while they are mechanically connected or while the glue dries. The pressing force should not be colossal, it is much more important not to damage the surface of the parts to be joined. At the same time, the clamp must maintain high strength and be durable.

For the manufacture of clamp parts that are in direct contact with the workpiece, it is better to use hardwood. Ideally, these are bars and planks made of larch, beech, hornbeam or birch. Such a tree has a sufficiently high strength and at the same time is elastic, restoring its shape well. The hardness of such wood is usually higher than that of the processed parts, which can be compensated by heels made of leather, light rubber, felt or softer wood.

Both solid wood and rolled metal can be used as a frame for the clamp. Corners or profile pipes work well, but they need to be carefully cleaned, primed and painted so that there are no traces of rust on the finished product. To prevent accidental mechanical damage or punching of the parts to be joined, it is recommended to stick wooden planks over the metal elements of the clamp or pull on a loose silicone hose.

Which screw and flywheel to use

Despite not very high clamping force, conventional metric threaded studs will not be very suitable for use as a clamp screw, except for a very small one. A small thread pitch will make it tedious to choose a free stroke, among other things, a triangular profile is “eaten up” much faster.

It would be much more correct to purchase studs with a trapezoidal or rectangular thread, otherwise called a jack thread. The optimal step is about 2-2.5 turns per centimeter, so a good smoothness of adjustment and an optimal tightening force for wooden parts are achieved.

You can get studs, nuts and fittings of the right type either by contacting a turner directly or in a hardware store, including on the Internet. There is, however, one BUT: most factory products have a full thread, while a slightly different screw configuration is optimal for a clamp. Ideally, if there are smooth pillars at the ends of the stud: about 20 mm long for the bearing fit (slightly thicker than the thread) and about 30-40 mm for the handle (slightly thinner or the same diameter).

The handle or flywheel can be made either from a block of wood, or by drilling a hole in the side of the stud and inserting a steel bar into it as a toggle lever, like on a vice.

Straight screw clamp

For the manufacture of the simplest clamp, you will need a frame in the form of a U-shaped bracket. It can be made in two ways. The first is to connect three bars at right angles on a tongue-and-groove joint, reinforcing it with glue and a pair of dowels. This option requires a fairly high qualification of the carpenter: hemming and fitting must be done with high accuracy, because the load in these nodes is very significant.

The second option is somewhat simpler, but more expensive in terms of material consumption. You can cut the bracket out of thick birch plywood by gluing 3-4 blanks 12-16 mm thick with Titebond wood glue.

When choosing the shape of the parts, keep in mind that the most reliable design will be with external slopes for greater rigidity. The stop of the bracket and its opposite part, in which the clamping screw will be fixed, must be trapezoidal. In this case, the inclined sides should diverge outward at an angle of about 30º more than a straight one. Thickening in the middle of the frame is also highly desirable.

To fix the screw, it is recommended to use nuts or nuts of the appropriate diameter, which are fixed in one of the “horns” of the clamp frame from the inside and are additionally strengthened with epoxy resin. If the bracket was assembled from bars, then you need to insert a screw into one of them before final assembly. If the frame structure is multi-layered, then the bushings can be replaced with nuts, which are glued into the cut of the central layer of plywood. Here it is important to monitor the direction of the axis of the screw and at the same time prevent glue from getting into the threaded connection - lubricate it well with grease.

At the point where the clamping heel is attached to the screw, some kind of swivel is necessary so that the parts do not move when clamped. It is best to press a bearing, selected according to the diameter of the inner race, onto the whole edge of the screw stud. For a secure stop, clamp the pin into the drill chuck, and then cut a groove under the retaining ring with a triangular file and a hacksaw. Next, in the bar serving as a support heel, you need to make a cylindrical groove with a core drill and press the bearing with the pin into it, strengthening the fit with varnish or epoxy.

Adjustable universal clamp

Clamps with a variable opening width are more versatile in application, they are most often used when rallying furniture panels. To make such a clamp, you will need a calibrated rail made of dry hardwood, ideally beech or ash. A constant profile size is required along the entire length and the complete absence of any defects. The clamping force that the clamp can withstand directly depends on the thickness and width of the rail.

So, manufacturing should begin with fixing a perpendicular stop at one end of the longitudinal rail. It is better to make it from two bars that fold and clamp the rail in two symmetrical grooves, or fill it in the manner of a hammer. Thus, the workpiece for a clamp with a fixed stop acquires a T-shape, and the length of the stop on the working side should be no more than 3 times longer than the projection on the reverse side. The connection of the stop with the rail can be strengthened with furniture ties, it is also possible to connect on 2-3 dowels and PVA glue.

The reverse part of the stop is designed to secure the bowstring. A straight steel bar with a diameter of 10-12 mm is ideal for it. At the end of the bar, thread should be cut and spread between the end stops with nuts from the inside. Holes for the bowstring should be drilled as close as possible to the back edge of the stop. In this case, the indentation from the edge should be sufficient so that the wood does not split. After installing the bowstring, it is necessary to mark a number of notches on the end of the bar facing the clamped part, in increments of 15-20 mm, make cuts up to 2 mm deep with a hacksaw using this marking, and cut the notches with a knife.

Next, you should make a movable clamp block. A through eyelet of rectangular section is made in it, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the thickness and width of the longitudinal bar. Ideally, gouge a groove 2-3 mm smaller, and then bring it to the desired shape with a square rasp. The bar should sit snugly in the last, but at the same time allow relatively free movement along the clamp and its slope for locking on the notches. Under the bowstring, you also need to make a through hole so that the bar is located strictly perpendicular to the rail, and the block slides freely along it with a slight backlash.

On the reverse side of the hard stop, you need to fill another block, which will fasten the bar with the bowstring parallel to each other. To do this, you can use a small piece of the bar, in which a groove for the bar is made with a chisel and an incomplete hole for the bowstring is drilled. Dowels or bolts are used to fix the pads. As for the clamping screw and the heel, they are installed by analogy with a conventional clamp. It is enough to drill a through hole in the movable block not too close to the edge and paste a futorka or nut into it from the inside. So when the part is clamped, the nut of the screw mechanism will rest against the wood and sit even tighter.

Angle clamp

The most difficult to manufacture can be called a clamp, which ensures the fixation of two parts at a right angle. At the same time, it is the most useful and sought-after tool in the carpenter's workshop.

The basis for the corner clamp will be a piece of thick plywood. It is better to take a square plank of about 300x300 mm with a thickness of at least 14 mm. In the corner of the base, you need to fix two bars of hardwood, which for convenience we will call reference. These pads must converge at a right angle facing the center of the plywood board, the thickness of the bars is at least 25x25 mm. Their fastening should be as rigid as possible: it is recommended to first glue the bars, ensuring their perpendicularity with the help of a bench square, and then strengthen the connection with ties or bolts.

From the center of each block, you need to draw a perpendicular line, coaxial with which the screw studs will be located. It is necessary to retreat from the bars by a distance of 20-30 mm more than the maximum thickness of the parts to be tightened. After that, two more bars are rigidly attached to the base parallel to the previous ones. It is advisable to glue the nuts immediately, and then proceed with the stop bars in the same way as with the reference ones: first position them on the adhesive joint, and then strengthen them with ties. For greater convenience, you can immediately screw the screw studs into the nuts.

After fixing the thrust bars, it remains only to press on the bearings fixed in the movable blocks. The cross section, dimensions and material of the latter should be similar to the reference bars. Finally, you need to fill the handles or insert the toggle levers and cut off the excess base of the clamp, removing the protruding corners for free rotation by the screw handles

Individual clamps for specific operations

In any carpentry workshop, homemade clamps show themselves to be more adapted to local working conditions than purchased in a store. You can use a wide range of variations of the three designs described above.

For example, on one rail, you can fix not one, but two adjustable pads for positioning parts at a great distance. Such a tool will be very useful, for example, when assembling door blocks.

Instead of a handle, you can weld a regular hexagonal bolt cap onto the stud. This is true if, when assembling parts, several clamps need to be often clamped, released and rearranged. At the same time, it will be convenient to rotate the clamping screw using a ratchet socket head or even a screwdriver.

To assemble products of complex shape, you can make clamp stops and movable blocks of a more complex configuration, which are well suited for working with irregularly shaped parts.

In the process of woodworking, in most cases, a joiner's clamp is indispensable. Whether it is necessary to glue wooden blanks, fix a sheet, board, slab during cutting - a clamp will definitely be needed. There are similar products on sale, but, according to experienced craftsmen, they are characterized by two significant drawbacks - limited size and low strength, since soft metals (alloys) are mainly used for their production in order to reduce costs.

Those who have to work with wood quite often prefer homemade carpentry clamps. How to make such a device with your own hands, what to pay attention to and take into account - this is described in the article.

There are many modifications of carpentry clamps - angular, G-shaped, edge, universal. Some are used for continuous work with various blanks (by area, thickness), others are made for a specific technological operation (for one-time use).

The author considers it appropriate to dwell only on those that are most often used by "home craftsmen". If the principle of their functioning becomes clear, then with your own hands you will be able to make any kind of carpentry clamp, according to your own requests. Unless, of course, "turn on" the fantasy and think carefully.

The author deliberately does not indicate the linear dimensions of the clamps. One of the advantages of their self-production is the possibility of arbitrary choice of the shape and dimensions of carpentry clamps. There is no standard for such devices. And it is hardly advisable for a person who is accustomed (and knows how) to do everything with his own hands to “chew” elementary things. The main thing is to give an idea, to “suggest an idea”, and everything else is at your own discretion.

Option number 1

The simplest modification of the clamp. It is done quite quickly, but the use of such a joiner's clamp is somewhat limited. Although in most cases, when working with small-sized samples, it is quite enough.

The frame of a hacksaw for metal is taken as the basis of the device. The fastening elements of the canvas are replaced by long threaded rods, at one end of which there is an iron “patch” (as an option, a nut), at the other, either a removable handle or a head for an open-end wrench.

Since the frame can be adjusted in length, such a clamp will allow you to fix workpieces of various thicknesses. It is mainly used when gluing parts (), since the body of the fixture itself cannot be fixed on any surface. The only thing to consider is that if the frame is collapsible (the old modification of the “hacksaw”), then you will have to put a “tire” at the bend (for example, wrap it with adhesive tape). In operation, such a clamp is not entirely convenient, but in the absence of something more suitable, it is a good solution to the problem.

Option number 2

Also a fairly simple clamp model. It is done by hand relatively quickly. The device of the device is clear from the figure. All you need is a metal corner and a couple of long screws or threaded rods.

If you make several of these clamps, then with their help it will be possible to perform various carpentry work. For example, glue long workpieces. To do this, it is enough to set the clamps at a certain interval, and lay metal strips or slats of hardwood between the stops and the workpiece. Alternatively, fix the assembly on a workbench. The same applies to cutting blanks.

Before sawing, they are fixed on the tabletop, and their immobility will be guaranteed. This design can be modified by welding metal plates to the corners. This significantly increases the clamping area.

In fact, for domestic use, such a modification of a joiner's clamp is one of the best. Experienced craftsmen always have a ready-made set of several devices with different dimensions at hand. Depending on the specifics of the work, you may need a clamping device from a corner either 25 or 45.

The versatility of such a modification is that it is made of metal, therefore, it is characterized by sufficient strength. Unlike wooden clamps, here you can adjust the clamping force in a wide range, and work not only with wood, but also with other materials - glass, plastics, "iron". What in everyday life and often have to do.

This design can be somewhat modified. For example, when processing logs at a mini-sawmill (cutting into boards, sawing), they must also be fixed. In this case, an improved modification of such a carpentry clamp is suitable. It is enough to take strip iron as its basis, at the ends of which to weld the same corners.

Varieties and modifications

Here are a few more types of carpentry clamps. All these clamps are easy to assemble with your own hands.

The question is different - how expedient is it to use wood as a starting material? There are arguments both for and against. But if a tree is chosen for the base of a joiner's clamp, then it must meet certain criteria.

• The breed is only hard (pear, oak, walnut and the like). Otherwise, there is no need to talk about any clamping force. And the durability of the clamp of their “soft” wood raises certain doubts.
• Humidity is minimal. Only after high-quality drying of the material can it be used for the manufacture of clamping parts.

Good luck, reader, in making your own clamp. Do not be afraid to fantasize, and everything will work out for you!