Simple homemade products for summer cottages and gardens with your own hands. Homemade products for summer cottages and gardens: useful tips for creating original decorations (120 photos) Winter homemade products for giving at home

The dacha is a place to relax the soul and improve the body. Far from the bustle of the city, where the air is clean, it is so nice to actively spend time, grow an excellent crop. And having worked enough, relax as it should!

But to relax in comfort, you need to work a little to create beautiful, useful and comfortable things. Do-it-yourself homemade products for summer cottages and gardens - cheap, reliable and cheerful!

Wooden pallet furniture (pallet)

After the construction of the house, there is a lot of construction debris that can come in handy! Brick and wall blocks delivered on pallets. They are returnable containers, but it’s reluctant to mess with this issue. With a minimum of effort, you can make an original wooden furniture for giving!

Look at this stylish coffee table for the living room. Do you recognize? It's just a regular pallet! It is not difficult to make such an interior item. Take a coarse sandpaper and clean the surface of the boards from which the container is knocked together. Then you need a finer sandpaper to make the surface smooth. After sanding, carefully wipe off the fine dust, consisting of particles of the removed wood.

Color your new table oil, acrylic or other wood paint. If the pallet was knocked together from decent boards and you like the natural texture of wood, then it is better to varnish the table. For convenience, small wheels can be screwed from below.

More complex products are also made from this container - sofas, chests of drawers, cabinets. See some photos for inspiration.

Agree, this is a chic and stylish headset! If you yourself will make soft seats, sew ribbons from the bottom of them from the same fabric to tie them to the frame. Otherwise, they will move.

The bed and a large headboard for it with shelves are also made of pallets. A good orthopedic mattress will allow you to sleep well even on such an original basis.

This outdoor seating area oriental style will not leave anyone indifferent.

Swing

Do you have children in your family or do you have guests with babies? Then you can't do without a swing! In order not to spend a lot of money, you can use unnecessary things.

For example, you can make an excellent swing seat from an old chair in a matter of minutes by sawing off the legs. And to make it beautiful, paint it with fresh paint.

By the way, not only children love to swing. Adults also enjoy it. Look at this version of a swing from a rattan chair, the legs of which have become unusable. Soft pillows of delicate colors, ribbons, lace fabric - everything to create a romantic atmosphere.

If the garden has big trees, you can hang such a structure on a thick bough, then you do not need to build complex fasteners, there will be a strong enough rope.

The second life of an old bath

There are many possible options. Here are some of them.

Flower garden. One of the most simple ways use an unnecessary bath. It is enough to make good drainage from broken brick or expanded clay at its bottom, add a nutrient substrate and plant plants.

Water. The easiest option is to bury the bath in the ground and pour water into it. But you can decorate it in such a way that no one will guess from what you built yourself a pond in the country. small fountain, a natural stone for framing, lighting and favorite plants will help create a unique corner for relaxing on the site.

Furniture. Yes! It's hard to believe, but the bath turns out to be excellent furniture - sofas and armchairs. And don't worry if your bathtub is cast iron. With the help of a grinder, you can cut out part of the board to make a sofa or chair.

flower beds

Flower beds can be decorated in a very original way.

Vertical gardening with colorful rubber boots. In their soles, make holes for the outflow of excess water and arrange drainage from expanded clay. Fill shoes with soil and plant plants. Remember that any container that is not deepened into the ground quickly heats up in the sun, the earth dries up in it. Therefore, on hot days, water green pets at least 1-2 times a day..

You can also use other shoes.

If there is an extremely unattractive stump from an old tree on the site, which cannot be uprooted, do not be discouraged. It will make an excellent raised flower bed.

Some gardeners love their plant-decorated stumps so much that they even varnish them to slow down the decay process.

Instead of a stump, a picturesque log can serve as the basis.

Flower gardens can be arranged in various used items - suitcases, bags, furniture, tires and even in a car!

Try to make it up warm bed, framing it neat wooden frame, stone or brick.

From plastic bottles

An excellent material for homemade products in the country and the garden with their own hands are plastic bottles. They can perform useful functions or be a decorative element to decorate the landscape.

Spray bottle - indispensable assistant in the garden. Make small holes in the container, put it on a pipe or hose with a neck and secure. It remains only to open the tap to let the water flow.

With the help of a bottle, you can organize root watering for plants. Make holes in it. So that the earth does not clog into the holes, put old polyamide tights on the container. Dig in the bottle so that the neck remains above the ground. There you will pour water from a hose or it will fill itself when it rains.

This method of watering will not introduce you into financial expenses at all, but will bring tangible benefits. From the bottle, water will flow gradually in small portions, without falling on the above-ground part of the plants. And this is very important for many fruit and decorative green pets: tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini ...

Having filled the bottles with water, you can safely leave for a week in the city, and the plants will not suffer from drought. More water, before it goes to the roots, has time to warm up.

Frame flower beds and beds with glass or plastic bottles.

It looks neat and is practical. If you bury the bottles in the ground, they will become a barrier to the spread of perennial weed roots. And if most of the container remains on top, then you can pour earth inside the perimeter and the flower bed or bed will turn out to be slightly raised. She will be easier to take care of.

Durable wear-resistant panicles are made from plastic bottles. They have an attractive appearance due to bright colors.

Do-it-yourself homemade products for summer cottages and gardens bring special comfort to your personal green corner. They are pleasing to the eye, serve as furniture or are assistants in the struggle for the harvest. And they protect you from all sorts of adversity. After all, it is known that things made with your own hands have a special power.

Let your cottage be hospitable at any time of the year!

A summer cottage is the territory where you can give yourself the freedom to conduct numerous experiments and dream up plenty. This is manifested not only in interior design, but mainly in the design of the garden or vegetable garden. Inquisitive and inventive owners have not been guided by expensive and standard methods for arranging their plots for a long time, since there are many alternative solutions for virtually all areas of activity.

There are several varieties of vertical beds that allow you to optimize the use of free space. Custom designs are a great opportunity to create interesting design garden, vegetable garden, summer cottage.

This type of beds is in most cases used for growing ornamental plants or herbs.

Materials for manufacturing:

The length of the drainpipes is adjustable in accordance with the wishes of the owner of the site. However, bulky beds should not be made, as they can complicate movement around the territory.

Creating a bed

Stage 1. Create a container. To do this, we take a drainpipe, cut it in two lengthwise and put on special plugs on both sides.

Stage 2. We take the prepared metal holders, put them on the resulting frames for the beds.

Stage 3. We make holes in the pipe. They are made in those places where there will be metal fasteners.

Stage 4. We pass a cable or a strong rope through the holes made.

Stage 5. We fix the cable / rope with fasteners.

Stage 6. We fill the resulting beds with expanded clay and soil.

Stage 7. We plant plants in the beds.

Stage 8. We hang pipes to the chosen place. Sometimes a special wooden crossbar is placed for this, more precisely, a design in the shape of the letter “P”.

Step 9. Alternatively, you can make a special design for the pipes.

Important! A drainpipe bed is not resistant to strong gusty winds, so you should choose a place for it that is not blown from four sides by winds. Otherwise, the frame will quickly collapse, nullifying all your efforts.

A bed made from a plastic bag is another modification of vertical beds. It is extremely compact, functional and interesting in appearance. You can make such a bed in a couple of hours.

Materials for manufacturing:

• durable polyethylene film;
• sewing machine;
• priming;
• seedling.

In order for the bed to turn out to be strong, it is recommended to pay special attention to the thickness of the plastic film, which in this case will act as the "frame" of the structure. The minimum film thickness is 0.2 mm.

The process of creating a polyethylene bed

Step 1 . We cut out 2 rectangular pieces of film, the size of which corresponds to the size of the created beds. An allowance of one and a half to two centimeters should be left on each side. The recommended diameter of the beds is twenty centimeters.

Step 2. Sew the rectangles together, leaving only the top of the bag unconnected.

Step 3. We sew a handle to the future bed, the strength of which will withstand the weight of the bag filled with soil. It should also be noted that when watering, the weight will increase.

Step 4. Fill the bag with fertilized soil.

Step 5. We make horizontal cuts on the bag in increments of twenty centimeters. They are necessary in order to plant seedlings in the garden.

Step 6. We plant seedlings.

Step 7. Water the soil regularly and add the necessary fertilizers.

With these simple steps, you can get a cheap and useful garden bed.

An integral element of each suburban area is a compost heap. This is the place where all kinds of biochemical reactions take place that ensure the creation of fertilizers.

To create fertilizers that will satisfy all the requirements for them, several key steps should be carefully considered: creating a container and directly making the compost itself correctly. Let's talk about each of them in more detail.

Stage 1. We take eight supporting posts of the same length.

Stage 2. We process the lower part of the wooden posts with engine oil or tar.

Stage 3. We dig the posts into the ground so that they are reliable and stable. If the compost bin is located next to the fence, then 4 posts (that is, one side) can be attached to the fence. This will avoid having to dig 4 holes.

Stage 4. Between each two adjacent columns we nail the crossbars in such a way that in the end we get three independent sections. Be sure to leave gaps that will serve as ventilation holes.

Stage 5. In two sections, horizontally nail the boards to half the height of the pillars. In these places, it is planned to create two small doors.

Stage 6. There will be a large door in the remaining section, so only one board should be nailed. It should be located at the very bottom in a horizontal position, that is, like a regular crossbar.

Stage 7. Install the covers. To do this, you can use one large solid board.

Stage 8. We install the doors prepared in advance.

Stage 9. We provide doors with handles and latches.

Stage 10. We process wood using special impregnations.

Stage 11. We paint the box in any color that matches the preferences.

Many gardeners mistakenly believe that any components can be dumped into the compost heap. In fact, in order to create the right biofertilizer, the “ingredients” must be carefully selected.

Among the required components compost heap the following components:

• peat;
• ash;
• needles;
• tree branches;
• leaves;
• hay or grass;
• wood ash;
• plant roots;
• raw vegetables and fruits, etc.

All elements are randomly mixed in the heap. To speed up chemical reactions it is recommended to cover the pile with a tarp (this is especially true in the absence of a box).

Trips to the country with the family suggest the presence of entertainment elements on the site that will delight children. The most common way to occupy young summer residents is a swing.

Building a swing yourself is not an easy task, but quite doable. Of course, you can always take a stick, tie it with a rope and hang the structure on a tree, but this can hardly be called a full-fledged swing. Real craftsmen prefer to build comfortable structures with a comfortable seating area.

Structural components:

• two logs;
• strong rope.

Indicators:

• log diameter - 85 mm;
• log length - 700 mm;
• the distance between the ropes is 500 mm.

Making a swing

Stage 1. We stretch the ropes between the logs.

Stage 2. We wrap each log with ropes.

Stage 3. We release the ropes out.

Stage 4. We tighten the ropes by 3 knots.

Stage 5. We fix the swing on the tree.

Important: such a swing is designed for only one person.

Garden path from improvised materials

There are several types of garden paths that you can easily do with your own hands.

Step 1. Remove the sidewall from the tire using a knife or saw.

Step 2. Cut the tires.

Step 3. We line the space with corrugated stripes.

Step 4. Paint the track with paint.

Step 5. Sprinkle with stone chips.

This is an economical option for those who do not want to rack their brains and spend time on a full-fledged garden path. Tire track is usually used for vegetable gardens, as it easily fits into the ground.

Stage 1. We paint the corks in different colors.

Stage 2. We dig a small trench.

Stage 3. We drive in supports to strengthen the future track.

Stage 4. We construct formwork using boards.

Stage 5. We install spacers along the edges of the trench.

Stage 6. We place crushed stone deep into the trench and carefully tamp it down.

Stage 7. We make a solution of sand, cement, glue and water.

Stage 8. Pour the solution into the trench.

Stage 9. We press the plugs in random order. Smooth multi-colored stripes look interesting.

These are the simplest and quick ways make a garden path without purchasing expensive materials.

DIY tools

The expression “everything will come in handy on the farm” turns out to be as relevant as possible when it comes to canisters. From this plastic container you can make a large number of indispensable tools that are actively used in the process of dacha work.

To make this tool, we only need a sharp knife and a container directly.

Stage 1. Cut off the bottom of the canister.

Stage 2. We mark the cut line for the scoop on the container so that the handle from the canister is the handle of the future tool.

Stage 3. Cut off excess material.

As a result of these simple steps, we get an excellent scoop with a comfortable handle.

Materials:

Manufacturing

Step 1. Thoroughly wash the canister so that no odor remains in it.

Stage 2. We cut the canister vertically into two parts.

Stage 3. We make a groove on the plank using a woodworking machine.

Stage 4. We apply glue to the plywood and insert it into the bottom of the canister.

Stage 5. We paint the resulting shelf with a can.

Of course, such a design will not survive heavy weight However, it is quite suitable for storing small parts.

Materials:

• 40 canisters;
• scissors;
• rope;
• paper;
• marker.

Stage 1. We pierce the top of the cans with a knife.

Stage 2. We make a stencil out of paper.

Stage 3. We apply it to the canister, circle it with a marker.

Stage 4. Cut out large holes with scissors.

Stage 5. We put the prepared canisters in several rows, tying each row by hooking the rope under the handles of the containers.

Stage 6. We tie the entire rows around the perimeter for greater strength.

Stage 7. If the cabinet is planned to be leaned against the wall, then we drill it to the surface.

Stage 8. We put heavy objects in the bottom row - stones or bricks.

The result is a fairly roomy and functional rack that will help get rid of the issue of storing many small parts.

Be resourceful and bold in implementing your ideas. Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself homemade products for summer cottages

Video - Do it yourself for a summer residence

With the beginning of the spring season, the owners of garden plots have a lot of worries. It's time to prepare a place for. Then, in order to obtain rich harvests, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings or seeds, and then carefully care for the plants during the summer.

For all these processes, certain tools are used that can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently. Some of them are very unusual, and are the fruits of a creative approach. experienced gardeners to difficult work on the ground. How you can make non-standard, convenient and effective garden tools with your own hands, in order to greatly facilitate the cultivation of the land, will be discussed in this publication.

Where to begin?

As is known, almost all garden tools It is made of metal, so the work will require a number of tools and, of course, the ability to use them. If there are no problems with this issue, it remains only to prepare them for work. For those who are just starting their journey self-manufacturing metal products, it makes sense to provide a list of the minimum required:

• Usually, every economic owner of a private house has this device, since there are always a lot of works on the site for which it is necessary.
• Before starting welding of metal parts, it is necessary to clean their edges, and after the work is done, remove the remaining slag. For these processes, hard steel brushes are used, which can be manual or in the form of attachments for a drill or grinder.
• A slag hammer will be required to remove slag from the seam.
• Chisels, stamps and a hammer are used to brand seams and cut out defective places, as well as to remove frozen metal splashes.
• Templates, ruler, square, scriber, tape measure, as well as other measuring tools are used in assembly operations, in preparing parts of a future structure for welding.
• A grinder-"grinder" with circles for metal will be needed for cutting parts. It is also needed for final finishing - cleaning seams, sharpening cutting planes.
• Personal protection kit. These are a welding mask, gloves and a welder's suit, instead of which clothes made of dense natural fabric can be used.
• Metal table or goats for welding.

Welding operations require a certain amount of experience

The acquisition of the apparatus does not at all make its owner a welder. It is necessary to "fill your hand" well, starting with the simplest seams. And we must be prepared for the fact that it will not turn out right away, patience, diligence, perseverance are required. - read in a special publication of our portal.

If these tools are available, and there is enough experience in welding, it's time to choose a product for manufacturing. A drawing of a future fixture can be found or developed independently, to the best of your ability.

Some useful ideas as will be suggested below. They can be taken as a basis and, if desired, improved according to your own understanding.

Custom garden tool available for DIY

Today, manufacturers of garden tools, given the hard work of tillage, have developed and offer the consumer a considerable amount various devices, which not only dig up, but also loosen the ground, while removing weeds. Such tools can significantly reduce the time for preparing the beds, save your back from excessive stress.

Some of these "small-mechanization" tools can be made independently, saving a decent amount.

Miracle Shovel

This tool has appeared in commercials for garden tool manufacturers relatively recently. And at the same time, many craftsmen have been using such a device for more than a year, having made it on their own. And, I must say, only praising its efficiency and convenience.

As soon as they don’t call this invention - both “miracle pitchforks” and a cultivator cultivator. But no matter what name is attributed to him, the main thing is that it greatly facilitates the work of the gardener.

There are several varieties of "miracle shovels", differing from each other in their design. But they all work on the same principle. Therefore, you can choose the option that seems easier to perform and convenient to use.

The first version of the "miracle shovel"

This is the most popular version of this tool. It can be found ready-made in specialized stores or at gardening fairs. Before you start making such a model yourself, you should carefully consider its design and understand how it works.

The shovel consists of the following parts:

1. Working forks.
2. Front stop.
3. Back stop.
4. Front stop forks.
5. Tuleyka for installation and fastening of the handle.
6. Shank.
7. Lever mechanism.

The "operating manual" of this tool can be presented as follows:

• The shovel-ripper is taken by the handle and installed on the soil on the front stop.
• Further, the working forks are stuck into the soil so that the back gauge also touches the ground.

• Then the stalk of the shovel goes down with a little effort on itself. Due to this, the working forks will begin to move upward, raising the soil layers.

• The forks located on the front stop, passing between the teeth of the working forks, will loosen the ground. At the same time, the soil layer does not have to be turned over, so that the fertile layer will not be disturbed in it.
• After that, the shovel moves to the next section, and the operations are repeated.

This version of the shovel is designed for digging the soil to a maximum depth equal to the length of the working forks. Accordingly, the width of the processed strip will be equal to the width of the working forks. In the example shown, the working fork tines are 250 mm long and 430 mm wide.

This figure shows the "miracle shovel" disassembled, and the arrows show the process of its assembly. This visual instruction will help to assemble any version of the “miracle shovel” design.

In order to make such a tool, you need to prepare the following material:

• To make a working pitchfork, you will need:

- a piece of steel corner 20 × 20 × 4 mm or a profile pipe 20 × 20 mm, 460 mm long;

- a piece of a round pipe ½ inch, 220 ÷ 250 mm long - for making a tuleyka;

- two metal plates 100 × 40 × 4 mm in size - for fixing the body on the frame of the front stop;

- six pieces of steel round (Ø 8 mm) or, which would be better - a square bar with a section of 8 × 8 mm, 240 mm long.

• For the manufacture of an emphasis frame with front forks, it will be necessary to prepare the following parts:

- for supporting so-called skis, two pieces of a round pipe with an outer diameter of 10 mm and a length of 710 mm are required;

- the cross member on which the working forks will be attached will require a piece of a profile pipe 460 mm long and 20 × 20 mm in cross section;

- the second cross member, on which the teeth of the front forks will be welded, is made of a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm;

- a pipe 170 mm long and 12 mm in diameter for connecting the frame with the supporting heel of the structure;

- for the support part, you will need a corner measuring 15 × 15 × 4 × 330 mm;

- six pieces of a round rod 200 mm long, similar to those used for working forks.

- reliable wooden stalk.

Work on the manufacture of a miracle shovel is carried out in the following order:

Illustration
	The first step is to mark and cut with a grinder parts for the design of the shovel. It is best to prepare the working fork elements first, and then the base frame. Further, all parts will be prepared according to the drawing during installation work.
	First of all, the base frame and front forks are made. In order to make a pitchfork, the pipe is marked for holes, which must be located in increments of 65 mm. Non-through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the marked centers. Then pieces of reinforcement are installed in them, which will become the teeth of the front forks.
	Further, “skis” are prepared for welding, that is, the side parts of the support frame. One edge of these skids should have a slight curve for better gliding on the ground. In order for the pipe to retain the given shape when using the tool, an incision is made on it, departing from one of the edges of 100 mm, due to which the necessary curvature is given to the pipe. Then the incision is boiled, which will give rigidity to the parts. You can do without a notch by shaping the “skis” on a pipe bender.
	The next step is to make marks on the profile pipe for welding the "ears" - these are two metal plates measuring 300 × 20 × 4 mm. Holes are drilled in them for the hinged connection of the support frame with the working forks. Instead of plates, which are quite difficult to weld, steel angles with holes of the required size can be used.
	The distance between the "ears" should be 100 mm.
	The next step is to weld the back stop to the profile pipe, on its other side, exactly in the middle at an angle of 120 degrees, consisting of a round pipe with a cross member made of a metal corner.
	Now that all the details of the support frame are ready, they are assembled in general design welding. It is very important to set the crossbars of the frame in relation to it at a right angle, otherwise the shovel will not function well enough.
	Next, a shell for a working fork is made, it must be welded exactly in the middle of the corner on which the teeth will be fixed. The pipe can be narrowed on one side, giving it an oval shape, as the master did in this case, or you can leave the diameter the same along the entire length. Stepping back from the upper edge of the body of 50 mm, places are marked for fixing metal plates, in which holes are pre-drilled to create a swivel joint with the “ears” welded on the support frame. The teeth are welded to the corner later, after fitting the mount.
	When the tuleyka is ready, they try it on the supporting part of the shovel, temporarily screwing it onto the bolts. In order for the lever mechanism to function without jamming, it is necessary to select bolts that are threaded only at the end.
	If everything works as it should, it remains only to try on and weld the teeth to the corner of the working forks. They are placed in such a way that they are between the teeth of the front forks and do not come into contact with them during work. The distance between the teeth of the working part of the shovel should also be 65 mm.
	But before welding the teeth on the corner, they must be prepared, as they must have a slight bend and pointed ends. There are two ways to sharpen the ends of square rods - forging or neat trimming and stripping. For forging, the metal will have to be red-hot, and then attached to the ends on the anvil desired shape with a hammer. This is quite skillful work, in addition, not everyone has a special furnace for heating metal. Therefore, it remains to sharpen the ends of the teeth mechanically, that is, carefully cut off a part of the metal on one side of the square, and then clean the cut points. You can turn to a turner who will work on a lathe.
	You can make a smooth bend at the ends of the teeth using a pipe bender, using one template. If this device is not available, then this work will have to be done with a vice and a hammer. However, it must be remembered that the bend on all teeth must be the same, so it may be better to carry out this process after welding the teeth to the corner. The fork can also be bent with a hammer, laying them with teeth on a template.
	As a result of the performed operations, a comfortable, relatively light construction is obtained. Moreover, the “miracle shovel” will only need to be brought to the place of work and taken away at the end of the place of work. The rest of the time it will not be necessary to lift it, since it will move along the soil with the help of “ski” runners.

The manufacturer of this "miracle shovel" honestly admits that, having made it in the fall, he tried to dig up the wet earth, and he did not succeed. It turned out that the earth was stuck between the teeth, and the runners were moving heavily on wet ground.

Therefore, given his mistakes, you should not experiment with the tool immediately after the snow melts. Dry soil is excellently dug up with this tool, even if it is already “obscenely” overgrown with grass. The working forks pick up and pull out the weeds, while the front forks free them from the soil. But in order to remove the grass from the dug-up beds, you still have to bend down.

Prices for miracle shovels

miracle shovel

Second option

In addition to this model, there are other models of "miracle shovels". For example, for older people who like to tinker in the garden, there is an option developed by the Altai craftsman V. Popenko.

This design has a comfortable high U-shaped handle that allows you to work without bending down. And if necessary, you can lean on such a handle by sticking teeth into the ground.

The disadvantage of this “miracle shovel” option is the lack of good loosening of the soil. Therefore, it is additionally necessary to break the clods and grind them with a rake.

Third option

Another design that can rather be called an improved pitchfork for digging the earth. But it will also make the job easier - due to the special support pedal installed on the handle. When the forks are driven into the ground, the pedal assists in applying proper foot force. And after the pedal rests on the ground, it becomes a fulcrum for the application of force through the lever-handle hinged to it. This greatly facilitates the lifting of the excavated earth.

A similar version of the tool can be bought ready-made. But it’s easy to do otherwise - to purchase high-quality forks, and then improve them by adding a support pedal hinged to a clamp attached to the handle.

In the illustration above, not only is the design of the pedal clearly visible, but also the dimensions of all the parts necessary for the manufacture of the instrument are given.

Cultivator "Tornado"

Among gardeners, the Tornado cultivator began to enjoy wide popularity. It is actively advertised in TV and online stores. Indeed, the device is quite convenient and relatively compact. But not every Russian summer resident can afford to purchase this tool. Therefore, it is worth trying your hand at making it.

The design of the "Tornado" is simpler than the "miracle shovel" and works on the principle of a corkscrew mounted on a convenient stand with a horizontal crossbar handle.

If you decide to make a cultivator yourself, in order to simplify the task, you can use commercially produced pitchforks as a basis, which have a very affordable cost. The main thing is to choose a quality option when purchasing this tool. Today there are a lot of products on the market, the metal of which will not endure manipulations for alteration - steel does not stand up to criticism.

"Tornado" can be made immediately to your height, or you can make the handle adjustable. There are many options here. For example, a collet with a threaded sleeve (but this is quite difficult to do on your own). Or a series of holes in the sliding part of the rack - this option is shown in the illustration below.

The “crab”, that is, the working part of the factory tool, is made by forging, so the teeth are resistant to bending. And if it is possible to make this part of the cultivator using the same technology, then it is better to choose this option. To do this, you need to heat the workpieces and use a hammer to give them the desired shape and direction. It must be said right away that not every master can do this process.

As you can see in the drawings and photos, the teeth of the "crab" have arcuate bends, are attached to the base in one direction, and in the finished product they form an oval or round inner space.

The teeth are welded in such a way that they form a kind of square around the rack. That is, the fixation of each of them does not occur pointwise, but along the entire fold line of the part, which forms one side of the square. You can first weld a square steel plate 5 ÷ 6 mm thick to the lower end of the pipe-rack, and then weld the teeth to the sides of this square - it seems easier this way. Thanks to the continuous penetration of the teeth, the “crab” withstands high loads during tool operation.

The teeth of the “crab” are narrowed, thanks to which they easily drive into the soil and do not deform. But there is no special need to hone them - they will cope with the task anyway. The height of the "crab" can be from 180 to 200 mm. Accordingly, the loosening of the soil occurs to the same depth.

"Tornado" is often called a root remover, because when digging and loosening the soil, weeds are simultaneously removed from it along with their root system.

The principle of operation of the cultivator is to install the “crab” perpendicularly on the soil surface, followed by turning the tool 60 degrees while pressing down. Therefore, an important point is the shape and length of the handle, as it should work as a convenient and effective lever.

Prices for the Tornado cultivator

Other tillage tools Tornado

Models are available with different forms handles, therefore, with self-production, you can choose best option. So, the handle is made straight with a slight bend towards itself, 750 mm long. Or, as already mentioned and shown above in the drawing, you can use the steering wheel from an old bicycle as a handle.

In a word, a skilled craftsman is quite capable of making this tool as convenient as possible for himself.

Fokine flat cutter

Another device that solves several problems is a flat cutter, invented by V.V. Fokin.

This simple tool can do the following:

• Efficient removal of weeds from beds. Thanks to its compact size and ergonomic shape, this tool can easily pass between cultivated plants without damaging them.
• The loosening of the beds can be done at different depths, since not only the side, but also the front part of the tool is working.
• Hilling plants is also within the power of this small tool.
• Forming beds and maintaining their shape during the season, as well as much more.

Find out about the available arrangement options from our new article on our portal.

For the manufacture of a flat cutter, a metal strip 3 mm thick is required, and all other required dimensional parameters are presented in the drawing. The edges of the plate must be well processed, cleared of bumps and burrs. And in the upper part, drill two or three holes to fix the nozzle on the handle. Then, the plate will need to be bent properly. In order for the metal to bend better, it must be heated, for example, with a blowtorch.

To give the metal strip the required shape, several successive bends are made. The order of their execution is shown in the illustration below.

After the metal has cooled down, the edges of the working area of ​​the flat cutter must be properly sharpened on both sides.

After that, the flat cutter can be mounted on a wooden handle, the material for which can be bought quite inexpensively at a hardware store. The bar must be well cut, chamfered, deburred, sanded with sandpaper. After that, holes are drilled to secure the tool itself, if the connection was planned to be screwed. Many owners are limited to fixing a flat cutter to the handle with self-tapping screws.

The tool is quite light in weight, so it is perfect for gardening for people of all ages.

Fokin flat cutter prices

Fokine flat cutter

It is also easy to use a flat cutter. To do this, the sharpened side of the plate is inserted into the soil to a depth of 40 mm, set parallel to the surface. Then, with little effort, they begin loosening or cutting the root system of weeds.

With proper manufacture and operation, a flat cutter plate sharpened on both sides is capable of self-sharpening. If, nevertheless, the tool becomes dull, then periodically it can be sharpened with a grinder or file.

Equipment for planting potatoes

To facilitate the planting of the most popular root crop, craftsmen invented special devices, the so-called planters and markers. In addition to them, mechanized planting devices are also made, but they are more suitable for large areas. Manual planters are suitable for any size garden, greatly simplify and speed up the planting process.

The simplest marker device for quick planting potatoes

Markers are designed to create depressions in the dug up soil for throwing potatoes into them. They can be single, double or triple.

The presence of two or three cone heads for creating holes not only speeds up the work, but also allows you to maintain the evenness of the planting rows. So, in order to plant a sufficiently large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden, joint actions of only two people will be required. One forms the holes with a marker, and the second throws potato tubers into them and covers them with earth from above. The recesses themselves are small and neat, so you can fill them up by simply pushing the soil with your foot. Thus, there is no need to work with a shovel, digging and then filling wide furrows. As a result, the landing process is not accompanied by fatigue or even local back injury.

The device itself has a very simple design which can be easily made at home. This will require a frame with a comfortable handle on which cone markers are welded.

As a handle, you can use parts of the back of an old metal bed or a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm, placing plastic hand pads on it.

For the lower horizontal crossbar, on which the cones will be fixed by welding, suitable profile pipe, for example, 10×20 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm.

The cones are welded onto the crossbar at a distance of 450 mm from each other. On the protruding edge of the crossbar with the same distance from the nearest marker, you can simply weld a rod of reinforcement - it only acts as a guideline when maintaining the evenness of the row relative to the intended line or already planted rows.

A more complex version of the planter

Another, more difficult to manufacture version of the planter involves the simultaneous digging of a hole and planting a tuber.

How to make this design will be discussed further in the instruction table:

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For the manufacture of this planter model, a pipe segment with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm is required. On the pipe on both sides, it is immediately necessary to make markings for the holes. Their centers should be located exactly opposite each other. Two holes will be drilled through them.
	To make drilling the pipe easier, it is placed on a convenient stand. In this case, a piece of rail is used as it. It perfectly fulfills the role of not only a stand, but also an anvil. Before starting drilling, holes are marked with a core, which will also facilitate drilling in a semi-circular surface. Holes are made at a distance of 10÷12 mm from the edge of the pipe and should have a diameter of 8÷10 mm, for bolts of the same size.
	For the manufacture of a conical detachable part of the planter, a small sheet of metal 1.5 mm thick is required. On the sheet, two triangles with a cut top are marked. The size of one part is 190÷200 mm in height, the base of the triangle is 160 mm and the width of the upper cut is 30 mm. The second part has the same height, but its base must be 180 mm long and the cut must be 20 mm. The lined parts must be carefully cut out with the help of a grinder.
	The result is two triangles with a cut top, from which it will be necessary to make a split cone. One side of this assembly will be fixed, and the other side will be able to move in a hinged mount. For the manufacture of the fixed part, a smaller part is used.
	To give the parts a semicircular shape, they must be bent. The work is best done on the anvil, but if it is not there, a section of the rail comes to the rescue again. Giving the necessary shape is carried out with an ordinary hammer, with which one or the other side of the part is knocked out.
	In the course of giving the parts the necessary bend, they are periodically fitted to the pipe.
	The part must be installed on the edge of the pipe and at the same time, its edges must be located at right angles to the cut of the pipe - this will turn out to be a half of the cone converging towards the center. In order to achieve such an installation of the part, it will be necessary to trim the edges in its lower part. To do this, holding the part in the required position, areas for trimming are outlined.
	Along the marking lines, the part is cut off with the help of a grinder.
	The fixed part of the planter cone should be in this position, since the second, movable half should close with it as tightly as possible.
	Just like the first part of the cone, the second, movable half of it is made from the prepared plate. Then it is fitted and adjusted.
	However, a more accurate adjustment can only be made after fixing the fixed part of the cone to the pipe. Therefore, it is welded to the base - the pipe.
	The illustration clearly shows that the corners of the movable side of the cone are on the pipe. It is from them that you need to get rid of, otherwise they will interfere with the opening of the planter.
	Before removing them, it is necessary to mark up, and then cut off the excess parts with the help of a grinder. If the fixed side of the product is installed and welded onto the wall of the pipe, then the movable part should bend around it, being a little on it from the outside, as it will open.
	As a result of the work done, it should turn out approximately as shown in this illustration.
	The next step is to install the hinge assembly, with which the movable part of the planter will open and close. To do this, you will need to prepare two plates - an “ear”, made of metal with a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm. In these parts, a hole of the same diameter is drilled as in the holes made earlier in the pipe walls.
	For screwing the "ears" to the pipe, bolts 8 ÷ 10 mm in diameter and 10 ÷ 15 mm long are used. It is better to grind their heads immediately so that they protrude as little as possible from the surface of the pipe. The bolts are inserted from the inside of the pipe, pass through it and the hole drilled in the “eye”, and are attracted by washers and nuts on top of it.
	The “ears” will have to be bent a little, giving mm the shape of the walls of the opening part of the cone, since they will be welded on them.
	Now the upper side of the "lugs" can be grabbed with welding points to the walls of the movable part of the cone. When fixing them, you may have to correct the closure of the two halves.
	Next comes the manufacture and welding of planter handles. This will require a pipe with a diameter of ½ inch, and the length should be comfortable for work. One end of the pipe is cut at an angle, as it will be fixed to the planter body. You can also choose the slope yourself, but in this case, the position of the handle relative to the body falls at an angle of about 20 degrees.
	The second handle is welded in the middle of the opening side of the cone in its upper part. When you press this handle, it, attracted to the pipe, will open the cone. Therefore, it is placed at an angle of 35 ÷ 40 degrees.
	If, when testing the planter, the handle welded to the pipe turns out to be not quite convenient, then its position can be corrected.
	To do this, an incision is made on its inner side, along which the pipe is bent at an angle to its welded part and is attracted closer to the planter body. Then, along the fold, the handle is boiled.
	Now the product is being tested again. In this case, the builder found that the planter was opening too wide, so a stop bolt had to be included in the design. It will limit the opening width of the cone, due to which the planted tuber or a glass of seeds will be covered with soil on its own when the planter is pulled out of the ground.
	To do this, a nut is welded to the handle, fixed on the movable side of the cone, into which the limiter bolt is screwed.
	Thus, when the handles are brought together, the bolt in the desired position will rest against the body pipe, preventing the planter cone from opening completely. By screwing and unscrewing this limiter, it will be possible to adjust the width of the hole at the planting depth.
	A plate is welded to the rear side of the pipe - a pedal, which is necessary to deepen the planter into the ground by transferring the force of the foot. Since a rather high load will fall on the pedal, the plate must be strengthened by welding a strut to it from below - a piece of reinforcement, the second end of which is welded to the planter body.

This planter design is suitable not only for planting potatoes, but also for other plants that are planted in the form of bushes, seeds or bulbs. There are other options for such devices, but they all work on the same principle.

Devices for manual harvesting of root crops

There are not only devices for planting potatoes, but also "mechanisms" for its convenient and quick harvesting. So, using a manual digger, labor productivity can be almost doubled. This is due to the fact that, unlike a conventional shovel, the device captures the soil not from one, but from two sides at once, easily bringing tubers to the surface.

The digger has a not too complicated design, which can be assembled independently. In order to make such a tool, you will need to purchase a pair of ordinary pitchforks. In addition to them, for the formation of handles, two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 27 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm and a length of 720 ÷ 950 mm are required. And yet - a metal plate 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide and 330 mm long for the manufacture of the crossbar.

1. Fork teeth.
2. Crossbar.
3. "Ears" welded to the pitchfork.
4. Bolt M10.
5. Potato digger handles.

The tool is made in the following order:

• Wooden cuttings are taken from the forks of the pitchfork.
• Under the shells, in the middle part of the forks, two “lugs” with a diameter of 11 ÷ 12 mm are welded at a distance of 55 mm. So that a crossbar freely stands between them.
• On the underside of the crossbar, along its short edges, tubes with a diameter of 10.5 mm are welded. Through them and the "lugs" mounted on the forks, a hinge bolt with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 70 mm will pass.
• Next, tool handles are made. The ends of the pipes intended for them must be bent so that they are comfortable to hold in your hands. And then it is recommended to put hose sections on the bent ends. So the hands will not slip during the work.
• And, finally, the prepared handles, after adjusting their configuration, are welded into the fork shells.

Everything, the design is ready to work. The forks of the digger are bred in an open position and set above the potato bush. Further, stepping on the crossbar, they drive the pitchfork into the ground. After that, the handles are spread apart, that is, the forks at the same time approach each other, lifting the captured soil with all its contents up. In this case, the teeth engage the root system and tubers of the bush. The digger, together with the captured crop, is raised to the surface, loose soil crumbles, leaving the potatoes clean. In the process of digging potatoes with such a homemade digger, its tubers are minimally damaged, and the soil does not move.

It is not recommended to dig up potatoes with a digger (as, indeed, with a regular shovel) if the soil is very moist. The cleaning process in such conditions will be significantly complicated by the excessive weight and inconvenience of the tool due to sticky soil.

* * * * * * *

As can be seen from the foregoing, if the owner wishes and the tools are available, it is quite possible to make convenient equipment for gardening, planting and harvesting in a home workshop. This saves a lot of money. And especially - if the "stash" of the master has many materials necessary for work.

The examples shown are the variety of home-made means of "small-scale mechanization" horticultural work is definitely not limited. If you wish, you can find other useful devices, and maybe even come up with some kind of improvement yourself. We will be glad if someone can share their experience on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - an interesting video about another useful tool - a cultivator. Fire will be an excellent assistant during the period of regular weeding of beds from weeds.

Video: Homemade hand cultivator for fast and efficient weeding

Today, a dacha is not just a garden with a house. Nowadays, the dacha becomes a place summer holiday. And any vacation implies a beautiful and cozy environment, so that everything around us pleases our eyes.

Therefore, in last years more and more, the fashion for the creative design of your summer cottage is gaining momentum. Moreover, decorating flower beds is not the only possible direction for ennobling your dacha. There are a huge number of photos with ideas for giving. But the M.Art company offers only modern types of landscaping using the latest technologies.

It is possible and necessary to decorate the territory of the dacha with improvised means: old things, unused furniture, parts from cars, and the like.

Thus, you will not only get rid of trash and decorate the cottage, but also enjoy and satisfaction from the work done.

We describe in detail below best ideas to give their own hands.

craft ideas

In the decor of the site from improvised means, your main assistant should be your imagination. For example, plastic bottles can become both an original flower bed and guiding paths.

In addition, it is easy to create animals and birds from bottles and decorate your territory with them. Ordinary stones are also a good material for decoration. They are often used to frame their own pond.

Car tires have long been the best flower beds, but now they have learned to make swans and other animals from them.

Ideas for children's play areas

Dacha is a family place, and if so, then it is necessary to provide rest not only for adults, but also for children. And best of all, children will have their own play area.

If you have large trees growing on your site, they are well suited for creating a swing. Creating sandboxes, treehouses and slides: here is a partial list interesting ideas for giving in the children's play area.

original fence

If a person is first evaluated by clothes, then dachas are judged by a fence. And than more unusual idea decorating the fence, the more impressive the guests will be.

You don't need anything supernatural to give your fence its own face: just paint and imagination.

By cutting out stencils of pictures, and then transferring them to the fence, you can achieve impressive results. Any picture made to scale can become a stencil, it's just up to your taste and patience in coloring.

Flowerbed - the best decoration for a summer residence

One of the oldest, but never out of fashion solutions country decor, are the flower beds. Original flower bed contains not only an unusual container (be it a tire, a cart wheel, a jug or a custom-made container of a non-standard shape), but also the flowers that grow on it.

Therefore, it is necessary that the coloring of the flower bed is one composition with the planted flowers.

In addition, the flowers themselves show how they are looked after, and serve as an indicator of the diligence of the summer resident and his love for his garden.

Scarecrows are an original idea for giving. They are used by very few summer residents due to the stereotype of their use as a scarecrow. However, if you use the original decor in creating a scarecrow and not limit yourself to the standard scarecrow figure, you get a very unusual and eye-catching country decoration.

Note!

Decoration of the place of rest

In the summer, arriving at the dacha, I don’t want to hump in the garden, but relax on fresh air. Therefore, the more comfortable and beautiful you arrange a place for rest on the site, the more pleasant it will be there.

You can place a lot of things in the recreation area, for example, your own pond. It is not difficult to make it, it is enough to dig a hole in size, cover it with a material that does not allow water to pass through (polyethylene will do), and decorate it beautifully with stones on the sides, then fill it with water - the pond is ready!

Also now they often arrange a barbecue area, gazebos in summer cottages, you can hang a hammock from a tree. Garden tiles for transitions greatly change the impression of ordinary walks around the site.

Some people prefer leisure. For them, the installation of sports equipment in the country will be very to their liking - you can put a horizontal bar, bars and rings - we get a mini-gym in the fresh air.

How to decorate your site is up to you. With great imagination and due perseverance, the summer cottage is quite capable of even becoming John Tolkien's "hobby hole"! Or another fabulous corner, good luck!

Photo ideas for a summer cottage with your own hands

Note!

All gardeners want their summer cottage not only to please with a harvest, but also to be attractive. No need to buy expensive decorative elements- good country homemade products can be made with your own hands from improvised materials, which for the most part we throw in the trash.

Useful crafts for the garden

Typically, garden summer cottages they do not differ in a large area, and one can only dream of amenities in the form of a shower. Making a garden shower with your own hands is not difficult at all:

It is important to choose the right place to place the shower. It is better if it is an elevated place, then it is more convenient to equip the drain. Do not place the shower far from home so that you do not feel uncomfortable on a cool evening. Choose a site that is not covered by branches of shrubs and trees - the water will not heat up through them, and a lot of insects will fly in.

The simplest type of shower is in the form of a rack mounted on a wall or vertical panel. All you have to do is supply water and drain wastewater.

Among the others useful homemade for the suburban area:

• A gazebo where you can have a good time on a summer evening.
• Recreation area with barbecue.
• Playground for kids: swing, horizontal bar, sandbox, small table with a bench.

Original flower beds

flowers on personal plot – required element, with them the cottage looks attractive. An original flower garden can be made from various items - at least from an old wheelbarrow. Find a place for it in the landscape, fill it with soil and plant annuals. Lush multi-colored hats will attract attention with bright colors and fragrance.

You can turn an old bicycle into a flower stand. Place small planters on it with ornamental plants and flowers. It is better if they are different: low and medium in height, hanging, different colors and forms.

On a fence or railing outdoor terrace, verandas can accommodate unusual flower pots, the role of which will play a great role ... old teapots, bowls and pots. And the remaining single tea cups from the service can be hung obliquely against the wall: let the effect be created as if the flowers “poured out” of them.

In the garden old bath, shabby wooden chair, a watering can can become the basis for a flower garden, even old shoes can become the basis for a planter. Such unusual application old things will delight neighbors and your guests.

The original flower garden can be made from old car tires:

Paint the tire bright color and hang on a chain to a strong bough on a tree. Insert a planter with a flower inside the tire. Hanging flowering plants will look more effective.

Place the cover on the stand. Gently wrap it with thick jute twine so that each row fits snugly against the previous one. Fill the container with soil and plant flowers.

Original furniture for a summer residence can be made from wooden pallets. Sofas and benches, complemented by soft pillows, will make your stay comfortable.

On a Saturday evening, when you sit down to take a break from gardening, look around for material for original crafts for your site. Having shown imagination and making a little effort, you will turn your site into a cozy relaxation corner or a fairy-tale kingdom.

Photo of homemade products for summer cottages and gardens