Do-it-yourself wooden sailboat. The legendary pirate ship "Francis Drake": making a wooden model with your own hands. Styrofoam boat
In modeling, plywood is the most popular material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simply processed. Using a suitable scheme (drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.
Plywood is a versatile material that is easy to cut and process. different ways, therefore, it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.
Building a ship on your own is quite an interesting activity. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on easier ones.
Materials and tools
To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition from which reliefs can be formed. For the solution, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:
- wood dust;
- PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
- plasticine to create small irregularities and patterns;
Materials and tools that are used during ship modeling:
Birch plywood will ensure a minimum number of chips when sawing.
- plywood of the required thickness;
- Super glue;
- sandpaper for surface treatment;
- kapron thread;
- jigsaw for cutting parts;
- construction knife;
- mast wood. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
- dye;
- brushes small size;
- Chinese sticks;
- fabric for sails;
- a thread;
- pencil ruler.
Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular option is cedar, linden, walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly smooth, without knots and damage. It can be used as additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.
Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not give chips during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.
A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.
Veneer is a sheet material, very thin, made of precious wood. In most cases, veneer is used as facing material. They paste over products that are made of inexpensive material.
Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform decorative role. To create a boat model, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass studs. In order to transfer the drawing from sheet to plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. So the drawing will turn out detailed. Glue must be used to fasten the plywood parts. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, using polymer clay, or independently preparing a solution from wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable, and it can be painted in the desired color.
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Preparatory work
If you are modeling a plywood ship for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details are already cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. Modeling, like any other kind of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at various drawings and finished works, this will greatly facilitate the choice of model.
Having studied the drawing completely, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a jewelry business. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.
At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates for all the details. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. On this preparatory stage work can be considered completed.
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Parts manufacturing
In order to make all the details, cut them out of a plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. You can use a manual jigsaw for work, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model version. Using the second option will significantly reduce the time to manufacture all the elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.
Sawn blanks are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.
In order to cut the part, a hole is made in the plywood into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then ruin appearance the entire ship. Each sawn workpiece must be processed with a file from the ends. In the process of such cleaning, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.
It is necessary to assemble the ship when all the details are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out the missing parts.
Probably each of us in childhood read books about pirates. These were sea robbers who plowed the seas and oceans, attacked merchant ships, and lowered all the booty in port taverns. These books were filled with intrigue, a special romanticism and a sense of adventure. For some people who are interested in the topic of piracy, a childhood passion has grown into a permanent hobby, which is expressed in the manufacture of wooden models of sailing ships. This is an unusually interesting activity, and ready-made models are an excellent element of interior decoration. For example, you can make a miniature copy of the famous pirate frigate, which sailed the famous pirate Francis Drake, who went down in history as one of the most famous corsairs of all time.
Who is Francis Drake?
In the Middle Ages there were a huge number of pirates, however, only a few managed to keep the memory of themselves. One of the famous corsairs was the Englishman Francis Drake, who received the nickname "Iron Pirate". He began his pirate career at a very young age as a ship priest, after which he served as a sailor, and at the age of 16 he became the captain of a ship. During his life, he went on a large number of sea voyages and was able to win no less battles, including with the English Royal Navy, therefore, among the pirates, he was considered a very successful, experienced and formidable captain.
Under the command of Drake there were several ships, among which the flagship was a galleon with three decks and five masts, which was called the "Golden Hind", which means "Golden Hind". The captain personally chose this name, since the ship was so fast that it could catch up with any merchant ship and hide from the pursuit of warships. It is thanks to its high speed and excellent maneuverability that the ship gained its popularity.
A little about modeling
The creation of miniature models of ships takes place in stages. Each stage is aimed at creating separate elements of sailing ships, which are subsequently combined into a single design. This process is very painstaking and requires from the creator not only the utmost concentration and perseverance, but also the manifestation of imagination, since very often it is necessary to change the materials used or replace them with others that are more suitable for specific model. In addition, in order for the model to turn out to be more realistic and to copy the original as best as possible, you should be careful with the sizes of the originals, which take a lot of time to find and transfer to the layout.
Making a wooden model of a ship: what is required for this?
Various techniques can be used to create models of sailing ships, however, the most common is the production of prefabricated parts carved from wood. This process is quite complicated and requires a certain set of tools. In order to make a ship model from prefabricated parts, you will need a knife, a hammer, a chisel, a drill with a set of drills, wooden beam ok, a piece of thin fabric for sails, a rope, a wooden capstan of the required length, wood glue, and when making large-sized models, it will be useful to stock up on a saw.
carving of a ship from wood
At the first stage of modeling, blanks are made, from which the model will be assembled in the future. To do this, you will need a chisel and a hammer, with which you need to remove old bolts, as well as sandpaper or a file to make the bar perfectly smooth. Next, you should clean the bar from the bark. In order for the work to go quickly, and not to get injured during its execution, it is necessary to keep it towards the planer.
When the blank for the future ship is ready, you can proceed to the next stage of modeling. You need to apply a sketch on the bar with the markings of the future ship, and then cut out the ship's hull from it. It is worth noting that this will require a well-sharpened knife, the blade of which should be at an angle of 10 degrees with respect to the bar. Despite the fact that this part of the work is one of the easiest in modeling, nevertheless, it is also the most responsible, because when performing it, you have no right to make a mistake. Therefore, slowly remove the wood in small layers, trying to keep the workpiece symmetrical.
The carving of the bow and sides of the vessel
When the preliminary layout of the ship's hull is ready, you can proceed to the jewelry part of the work. On the workpiece, you need to draw the side parts of the hull, as well as the bow and stern. This is done in the same way as described above. First, everything is drawn with a pencil, after which it is cut out with a knife. At the same time, it is necessary to try to make all parts even and smooth so that the layout looks like a ship as accurately as possible. In the manufacture of the bow, one of the sides of the bar is slightly filed, after which it is shaped into a saw cut.
Preparing the model and installing ship gear
The ship "Golden Doe" had three masts, so on the model you need to drill three holes for them, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the thickness of the spiers. The distance between the holes must be the same and sufficient so that the bar does not crack during drilling. If suddenly a crack appears, then it is better not to glue it, but to redo the model again, since cracks will spoil the whole appearance of the ship. In order for the masts to stand securely and not fall, it is better to put them on wood glue.
Raise the sails!
At the final stage, the sails are set. Since our galleon model has only three masts, only six sails are required - one large and one small for each of them. For their manufacture, you will need thin matter, from which you need to cut the sails according to the given sizes. Sails should be trapezoidal. Before installing them on the mast, you need to make notches on the spiers, after which the sails are planted on glue. Both edges should be glued strictly in the middle of the sails. To make the process as comfortable as possible, and the result does not disappoint you, it is better to start setting sails from the rear mast, moving gradually towards the bow one.
To decorate the sail, you can use the flag or the upper sail, which is called flying. Everything is clear with the flag and no one will have any problems with its manufacture, so there is no point in describing the process of its tailoring. But the flying sail deserves special attention. To make it, you need to cut a rhombus out of the fabric, resembling kite. Next, two perpendicular threads are glued to the part, which connect opposite corners. decorative element, and a thread is attached to one of the corners, with the help of which the flying sail is fixed with reverse side main sail. It is worth noting that a flying sail can be made both for the aft mast and for all the others. It all depends on your wishes and perseverance.
When the ship model is completed, it can be painted brown and varnished, after which it can be used to decorate the interior, even to launch it.
TECHNOLOGY FOR MANUFACTURING SHIP MODELS
§ 8. MATERIALS AND THEIR PROCESSING
Wood is used to build models of ships and ships various breeds. The main requirements for it are: strength with a minimum weight, ease of processing, fine-layeredness and the ability to stably maintain a given initial shape. Such tree species include linden, aspen and poplar. Hulls of models of ships and vessels are often made from them. Pine, spruce, cedar, maple, mahogany, balsa, alder and pear are also used in ship modeling.
Pine, cedar and spruce have high mechanical properties, prick and bend well, especially when soaked and steamed. They are used mainly for the manufacture of stringers and various rails in the construction of model cases. Model cases can also be made from these rocks. When making model parts, and especially stringers, it is necessary to avoid large-layer wood and select the smallest layer, with the number of annual layers of at least 10 per 1 cm. The layers must be parallel, otherwise the slats will break along the beveled layer. .
Maple has a hard, uniform, fine-grained white wood. It pricks badly, but peels well for veneer; polished and painted with any varnishes. Usually they are veneered (covered) with decks of models of merchant ships.
Mahogany is a name given to many species with wood ranging from light brown to dark reddish in color. It grows mainly in Africa, the Antilles and America. On the territory of the USSR it is found in Transcaucasia.
The wood of this tree is valued not only for beautiful colour and pattern, but also for water resistance. It is easily cut and processed, well varnished and polished. In ship modeling, wood is used to make desktop sail models. The deck lined (collected) from separate thin strips (rails) looks especially beautiful.
The hard but brittle walnut wood is light gray to brown in color with very beautiful layering. Well polished, varnished and finished with wax. It is mainly used as a finishing material in the manufacture of desktop models of sailing ships.
Pear wood has a different color - from light pink to red, very dense and uniform. It is perfectly processed by cutting tools and well polished. It is used for inlaying models of sailing ships.
One of the main indicators of wood is density. The softer (looser) the wood, the smaller it is, and vice versa.
Density of some types of wood, g/cm3
Birch - 0.65 Linden - 0.48
Pear - 0.73 Poplar - 0.47
Walnut - 0.73 Spruce - 0.47
Maple - 0.75 Alder - 0.54
Red Aspen - 0.43
wood - 0.54 Balsa - 0.1-0.24
Pine - 0.51
In addition to wood, many other materials are used in ship modeling. So, for the manufacture of hulls and superstructures of models of ships and vessels, foam plastics, plexiglass, polystyrene, celluloid and fiberglass are used. Foam plastics lend themselves well to processing on woodworking machines and hand carpentry cutting tools. Beginning modellers can use them to make ship hulls, and it is desirable to paste over the hulls of large models with a layer of fiberglass on epoxy resin ED-5.
Plexiglas and polystyrene - sheet materials. From them, you can make various superstructures, as well as stamp the hulls of small ship models (500-600 mm) in a heated form. These materials adhere well with dichloroethane or pear essence.
Fiberglass is used in ship modeling for gluing model hulls and manufacturing parts of complex configuration. Ship modellers usually use fiberglass with a thickness of 0.25-0.4 mm of grades TSF (b), ASTT (b) - 8, ASTT (b) C, ASTT (b) C2 and ASTT-9.
For many crafts, sheet metal is used - steel, brass, copper and tinplate.
§ 9. ADHESIVES USED IN SHIP MODELING
When building models of ships and vessels, various adhesives are used: protein, nitrocellulose and resin.
Joiner's (glutinous) glue during normal preparation (on water) is very afraid of moisture. But it can be made relatively waterproof if cooked according to the following recipe: broken into small pieces, put in a jar and poured with natural drying oil. When the glue swells (after 12-13 hours), put the jar in another bowl filled with water and heat until the glue is completely dissolved. It can only be consumed hot. It dries one and a half to two times longer than cooked on water.
It should be remembered that it should not be brought to a boil. If it boils during cooking, it will almost completely lose its adhesive ability.
Casein glue is more water resistant and is used for gluing textiles and paper products. According to the strength of gluing, the following grades of this glue are distinguished: extra (B-107), first grade (B-105) and ordinary (OB).
The adhesive solution is prepared as follows: 2 parts are added to one part of the powder, and 1.7 parts of water for a thicker glue. The resulting slurry must be stirred until it turns into a homogeneous mass without lumps and grains. The adhesive is suitable for use within 3-5 hours (depending on the composition). It is applied to both surfaces of the parts to be glued, kept in air for 3-5 minutes. Then the products are connected and pressed into clamps. Complete curing of the adhesive at room temperature occurs within 20-24 hours.
Nitrocellulose waterproof adhesives include enamel, AK-20, as well as any other nitro-varnishes: AB-4, 754, 900 and 930. They are available ready-to-use.
Nitroglues are used for gluing wood, fabrics, celluloid, and leather. They can be thinned with solvents 646, 647 and WFD.
When gluing, both surfaces are covered with two or three layers of glue, allowing each time to dry "until tacky". After that, one of the surfaces is lubricated again, connected to the other and the product is tightened with clamps.
Nitroglue can also be prepared by dissolving celluloid in acetone or in any of the above solvents. These adhesives are used as a primer for nitro putty floating models and for the preparation of quick-drying putties with the addition of talc (baby powder), chalk and sawdust.
Polyvinyl phenolic adhesives are very water resistant and are made by mixing polyvinyl and phenolic resins. Before applying such an adhesive, the parts must be heated.
Adhesives BF-1 and BF "-2 are used for gluing aluminum, wood, steel, plastics, ceramics, fiber, leather, fabric and paper. When gluing parts, a thin layer of glue is applied to the prepared surfaces and kept in air "until tacky" (not less than 30 minutes). 3-4 days.
Glue BF-6 is used for gluing fabric, which must be soaked and squeezed well before gluing. Lubricated with glue, it is heated with an iron through a damp piece of cloth until the glue dries.
All these adhesives are sold in stores ready-made.
Dichloroethane glue is used for gluing plexiglass, polystyrene and polymer materials. It is prepared by
dissolving plexiglass chips in dichloroethane or pear essence. The surfaces to be joined are generously smeared two or three times with an adhesive solution, dried “until tacky”, smeared again and connected. For complete drying when gluing under pressure, it takes 4 hours, without pressure 8-10 hours.
Epoxy-based adhesives are the strongest and most water-resistant.
The chemical industry of the USSR produces a large number of resins of various grades. But the most widespread among them are epoxy resins of the ED-5, ED-6, EDP and E-37 brands.
Epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6 are a low-viscosity transparent liquid from light yellow to Brown. To obtain an epoxy adhesive or an impregnating compound (for example, for gluing model cases), a hardener must be added to the epoxy resin. Depending on the type of hardener introduced, hot (with heating up to 200 ° C) or cold curing adhesive can be obtained, which hardens at room temperature. Ship modellers are more satisfied with the latter. But it can also be heated up to 70 ° C, then the gluing process is accelerated, and the strength increases.
To obtain a cold curing epoxy adhesive, it is necessary to introduce one of the hardeners (8-15%) into the ED-5 or ED-6 resin: hexamethylenediamine (HMD), pyridine, piperidine, or most often polyethylenepolyamine (PEPA).
Epoxy compound adhesives with high strength - adhesive bonds have low shrinkage, chemical, antifungal and moisture resistance. When gluing, they do not require the use of high pressure.
Cold curing adhesives should be prepared immediately before their use, as they quickly harden (with the introduction of a hardener of 8-15% for 20-40 minutes).
The parts to be bonded must be degreased. On the prepared surfaces, two layers of glue are applied one after the other, allowing each layer to dry "until tacky". After that, the parts are pressed in and kept for 24 hours at a temperature of 18-25°.
If a filler is introduced into the epoxy glue - aluminum powder, chalk or talc, then you can get a good, durable putty.
When gluing parts made of fiberglass (model hulls, superstructures, etc.), it must be remembered that ED-6 resin is very viscous and the compound based on it does not impregnate dense fiberglass well. Therefore, one of the components is introduced into the adhesive as a plasticizer (diluent): DEG-1 epoxy resin, ethyl cellosolf, dibutyl phthalate or acetone. To prevent the fiberglass from sticking to the shape of the product, a so-called separating layer is applied between the blank and the fiberglass. To apply this layer, you can use a 10-15% solution of polyethylene in white spirit, wax, paste for polishing parquet floors and other materials.
Epoxy glue is widely used in the repair of ships, cars and tractors. Applying plasters from several layers of fiberglass impregnated with an epoxy compound can provide very high strength and tightness of such patches.
Epoxy compounds are toxic. The most toxic part of epoxy compounds are hardeners.
Vapors and dust of hardeners and compounds are irritating to the mucous membranes of the nose, throat and eyes. Prolonged contact with hardener fumes or dust can cause severe injury. Therefore, when working with epoxy compounds and hardeners, the following precautions must be observed:
all operations for the preparation and use of epoxy compounds should be carried out in an isolated and well-ventilated room;
dust after processing of cured compounds should be carefully removed with a wet rag;
work tables before working with epoxy adhesives, cover with paper, which should be removed after contamination;
when working with adhesives, use rubber gloves;
during the working day, periodically wash hands and face with warm water and dry with disposable towels;
splashes of resin, compound and hardener that have got on the skin should be immediately removed with a gauze swab moistened with acetone, then rinse the skin with soapy water;
do not allow persons whose skin is hypersensitive to work with epoxy compounds.
Eating at the workplace is strictly prohibited.
§ 10. METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING MODEL BODIES
One of the main operations in the construction of a ship model is the manufacture of the hull. It can be made from various materials: a whole piece of wood, glued boards, papier-mâché, tin and fiberglass.
When starting work, the ship modeler must remember that correctly executed hull lines provide good seaworthiness of the model.
Therefore, when building a model case, one must strictly adhere to the theoretical drawing and follow the sequence of operations of the chosen method.
For desktop and small self-propelled models, the body can be made from a whole block of wood, which must be straight-grained, without cracks and through knots. If the wood is damp, it must be dried (aged) at room temperature, but not near the stove and not in the sun. Otherwise, it can be “led” and even “torn”.
The dimensions of the bar must correspond to the largest dimensions of the model hull: length, width and height of the side.
On one side of the bar, a line of the diametrical plane (a plane dividing the body in half along the length) is drawn along the ruler with a pencil. Then the bar is broken into spaces (the distance between the frames) and the outline of the deck is drawn (Fig. 22, a). Having processed the bar with an ax and a planer (along the drawn contour), the stem and stern of the model are drawn and also processed.
After that, according to a theoretical drawing, a transom is drawn on plywood, cut out with a jigsaw, smeared with glue and nailed to the stern of the blank with carnations. On the sides of the blank, the lines for the location of the frames are applied with a pencil. Then, according to the frame templates (Fig. 22, b), cut out of plywood, the body is brought to the desired size with a file and sandpaper.
Before gouging the hull, it is necessary to drill a series of holes along the deck and use chisels to select wood (Fig. 23). The thickness of the sides should be at least 6-8 mm.
For large cases of models, so that they are not “led”, it is better to make a bar in typesetting. Two options can be offered. The first is a body of horizontally glued boards. Their thickness should correspond to the distance between the waterlines on the theoretical drawing. On each board, a diametrical line, spacings are drawn and the corresponding contour of the waterline is drawn (Fig. 24, a). Having processed the board along the contour of the waterline from the outside, it is necessary to cut the wood from the inside, leaving an edge 6-8 mm wide (Fig. 24, b). The last board (bottom) is not sawn from the inside. The processed boards are glued into a bag (Fig. 24, V). Now it is enough to cut off the protruding corners and bring the case, using templates (Fig. 24, d), to the desired size.
The second option is to build a hull from vertically glued boards (Fig. 24, e). In this case, buttocks are drawn on the processed boards from the projection of the theoretical drawing "side". Here, too, each board is first processed according to outer contour buttocks and cut out inner part. The two extreme boards are left solid. Glued and dried boards are processed, as in the previous case.
Using these methods, the construction of the model bodies can be greatly simplified, while they turn out to be more symmetrical.
For the manufacture of a stacked hull, several methods can be proposed, the most common and rational is the construction of the hull on the deck flooring.
First you need to make a slipway board (Fig. 25). She should be well chiselled. A diametric line is drawn on the board and it is divided into spacings according to the theoretical drawing. Then, from the half-width projection drawing, the deck is drawn onto plywood 2-3 mm thick and sawn out. On the deck, it is necessary to mark the center line and the installation locations of the frames, and then make cuts along the sides to fix the frames in them.
The deck is installed on the slipway board. To give it a longitudinal deflection, wooden blocks are placed under it. The height of each block is determined according to the theoretical drawing
Rice. 22. Wood block marking (A) and processing of the body according to templates
frames ( b)
Rice. 23. Hollowing out the model body
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Rice. 25. Installation of the deck on the slipway:
1 - a line for measuring the height of the bars, 2 - deck, 3 - deck flooring, 4 - stacking bars, 5 - slipway board
rice.26. The sequence of manufacturing a type-setting case:
a - frame prepared for installation on deck, b- keel frame, V - installation of bosses on the keel frame, G- part of the assembled hull on the slipway
"side view". To do this, you need to connect the bow end of the hull with the stern with a straight line. The distance between the side of the deck and the line drawn on each spacing will be the height of each block. The blocks are nailed to the slipway board, a deck is laid on them and its ends are fixed with carnations.
Now you can start making frames. To do this, from a theoretical drawing (“body” projection), using tracing paper or carbon paper, the frames are transferred to plywood 6-8 mm thick, then cut out with a jigsaw. The edges of the sawn frames are processed with files and sandpaper. In the upper part of the frames (along the sides), spikes are left that will be inserted into deck cutouts (Fig. 26, a). In the lower part of the frames, grooves are cut out for installing the keel frame, which is drawn according to the theoretical drawing of the “side” projection and cut out of plywood with a thickness of 6-8 mm (Fig. 26, b).
In the bow and stern of the hull set, one or two spacings, bosses are installed from boards of soft wood - linden, alder, poplar (Fig. 26, c). The bosses are processed along the profile of the body with a rasp and sandpaper.
After that, the entire set is temporarily assembled, for which all the frames are inserted with spikes into the deck grooves and fastened with a keel frame.
Putting stringers on the frames, mark the places of their installation. Their number depends on the size of the model. The larger the model, the more stringers.
Having finished marking, the entire set is disassembled in order to cut grooves in the frames and bosses for laying stringers (Fig. 26, d). Before the final assembly, windows are cut out in the deck for access to the model, and all joints are coated two or three times with nitro glue and dried. Further, with the help of carnations and glue, all stringers are fixed. Having removed the dried-out set of the body from the slipway board, they process it with a drach file and coat it on the outside two or three times with nitro-glue. Now you can start sheathing the hull with 1.5 mm thick plywood or thick cardboard.
Sheathing sheets are glued and nailed. When the case dries well, the studs can be removed or sunk with a core. Having processed the body with a file and sandpaper, it must be smeared two or three times with nitro-glue, so that in the future the nitro putty will stick to it more firmly. For better strength, it can be pasted over with one layer of fiberglass using PN-1 or ED-5 resin.
It is very easy to build a papier-mâché case. It is glued out of newsprint on a blank made by one of the methods discussed above.
To prevent the first layers of paper from sticking to the blank of the case, it is coated with grease or petroleum jelly. The paper is torn into pieces approximately 60 X 80 mm in size. Cutting it with scissors is not recommended. The first two or three layers are applied to the blank without glue, directly on the fat layer. Glue is best used from potato starch. Pieces of paper are superimposed so that each next one overlaps the previous one.
For cases of small dimensions (700-900mm) it is enough to stick 9-11 layers of paper to get boards 2.5-3 mm thick. It is necessary to glue in several stages. After applying three or four layers, you should let them dry. Then, lightly sanding with sandpaper, stick the same amount. Repeat this process several times.
Having removed finished case from a blank, two or three frames are glued into it and covered with a deck. Then everything is cleaned with sandpaper and, using nitro glue, pasted over with gauze or a nylon stocking. Then the body can be puttied and painted.
The easiest way to make a metal case is by soldering small pieces of tinned sheet 0.3-0.4 mm thick on a blank. You can also use thin brass for this.
Rice. 27. Making a case from tin:
A- a body made by soldering from pieces of tin, b - laying a flat frame into a blank ; V- a method of manufacturing a T-frame, G- installation of T-frames; d- sheathing of the body with sheets of tin, 1 - flat frame, 2 - tee frame,
3 - sheathing sheet
or copper. Pieces can be of various sizes, depending on the complexity of the contours of the hull. In the bow and stern parts of the model, the ode will be smaller than in the middle, since the middle part of the hull has less complex contours (Fig. 27, A).
The second method is soldering the hull along flat frames cut out of tin and laid in the grooves of the blank (Fig. 27, b). T-shaped (T-shaped) frames are also used, as they create good strength for the hull. Such frames are made in the following way. In the middle of a strip of tin with a width of 20-24 mm, a risk is applied and the strip is bent in half along it. Then, retreating 5 mm from the edge of the bent part of the strip, a second risk is drawn, along which the workpiece in a vice is unbent on two sides and leveled with a mallet (Fig. 27, V). Before installing the frames, cuts are made on the blank. To do this, several hacksaw blades are folded into a package, equal in thickness to the width of the frames, and the middle blade should protrude by 5-6 mm. The cuts should be such that the frames are flush with the blank, this
provides smooth body contours. Their upper edges are nailed to the blank with small carnations (Fig. 27, d).
Having installed all the frames in their places, you can start soldering
cases made of strips of tin. For each sheathing make you
a cut out of paper. Having cut a sheet of tin along it, it must be laid
in its place and "grab" with solder in three or four places to the span
gotam, and the edges of the sheet should only half overlap
frame (Fig. 27, e).
Having installed the first sheathing sheet, all the others are cut out one by one and also “grabbed” to the frames. Thus, the entire body of the model is collected. After that, it must be chipped with a mallet, and then all joints should be properly soldered.
Before removing from the blank, the body is carefully processed with a file and sandpaper.
Now you can solder the stem and stern, as well as install the required number of bulkheads, deadwoods and helmports in the hull. Having cut out the required number of windows for access to the mechanisms of the model, the deck is put in place and soldered. After soldering, be sure to wash the body with a solution of baking soda or warm soapy water to remove any acid residue. Before priming, it is recommended to wipe the body with acetone or solvent.
For gluing a fiberglass case, wooden blanks are used, made by one of the previously described methods. The finished blank is carefully treated with sandpaper, all holes and cracks are puttied, and then a separating layer is applied to it. To do this, you can use heated paraffin, liquefied with kerosene, or mastic for rubbing parquet floors. It is necessary to ensure that the surface of the blank is well covered with a separating layer, otherwise the fiberglass may stick to it and it will be impossible to remove it. Glue the case with polyester resin PN-1 or epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6. For resin PN-1, the hardening components are cobalt naftanate, which is added to the resin 8%, and the accelerator - hyperiz (it is added 3%). Cobalt naftanate is introduced into the resin first. When using epoxy resins, the plasticizer is dibutyl phthalate - 8%, and the hardener is polyethylenepolyamine (it is added 10%).
Epoxy resins are slightly thicker than polyester resins, and it is recommended to thin them with toluene or acetone, which is added 8-10%. 3-6 layers of fiberglass are glued onto the blank, depending on its thickness.
Do it in the following way. Having smeared the blank with resin, the first layer of fabric is applied and carefully leveled. Then they coat again and apply a second layer of fabric. Each layer must be ironed well so that no air remains between them. Properly diluted resin hardens within 10-12 hours, so the next day, without removing the body from the blank, you can process it with files and sandpaper, and then cover it with putty
coy, made on the basis of the same resin. To do this, it is necessary to add a filler - talc. After processing with skins, the body is removed from the blank. And to increase the strength, insert 4 - 5 bulkheads. Then the deck is glued with the same resin, having previously made cutouts in it for access to the mechanisms.
§ 11 COLORING OF MODELS
For painting models of ships and vessels, oil, enamel and nitro-enamel paints are most often used.
In order for the quality of painting to be good, it is necessary to observe all stages of the technological process, consisting of surface preparation, priming, local and continuous puttying, sanding with sandpaper, applying paint and sanding it with thin sandpaper, polishing with pastes.
When preparing the surface of a wooden model for painting, the body is treated with a planer, file and sandpaper, and defects (burrs, cracks, loose knots) are also eliminated. Metal models are processed with files, skins and degreased with soda solution or soapy water. Priming of the case for oil paints for better adhesion of subsequent layers is carried out with special primer No. 000a, and if it is not available, you can use natural drying oil or liquid oil paint (better - red lead). For nitro paints, primer No. 000, AK-20 glue, enamel and nitro varnishes can be used.
The primer is applied to the surface two or three times. Each layer, after drying, is treated with fine emery cloth.
Puttying is designed to level the surface. Local puttying (filling holes, scratches) is done with a thick putty. After drying, it is sanded and the model is puttyed with liquid putty in several layers.
The composition of putty for oil paints:
1. Talc or chalk - 350 g, drying oil - 125 g, paint (preferably red lead or white lead) - 25 g;
2. Chalk - 350 g, oil varnish - 100 g; iron minium - 40 g.
Thick putty is applied with a spatula, knife or a piece of elastic rubber 6-8 mm thick, and liquid putty with a soft brush, flute or sprayer.
Under nitro-paints apply putty ASh-30, ASh-24 and ASh-32.
Nitro putty can be prepared by mixing talc (baby powder) on AK-20 nitro glue, enamel or any other nitro varnish.
Grinding is necessary to eliminate roughness after puttying or painting.
At the beginning of work (after local puttying), skins No. 48-80 are used ; after the first layers of continuous puttying - No. 80-
120; the last layers of putty are sanded with sandpaper No. 000-
Wet sanding is recommended to save skins. When using a waterproof skin, the surface is abundantly moistened with water. If there is no waterproof skin, then grind it with a regular one soaked in kerosene. After each sanding with kerosene, before coating, the surface is thoroughly washed with soda or soapy water and dried.
The quality of model painting largely depends on the practical skills of the ship modeler, on the ability to prepare the surface and on the brands of paints used.
Usually, painting is carried out with paint sprayers of the KR brands (KR-10, KR-11, KR-12). Compressors can be used any, giving a pressure of up to 3 atm, including small-sized S-511 and S-21.
The position of the paint sprayer should be such that the jet from it is directed perpendicular to the surface to be painted, the distance to which should be within 250-300 mm. It is necessary to move the gun evenly, at a constant speed. If you move too fast, the paint will lay down in a thin layer, if you move slowly, it will be thick, as a result of which smudges may appear. Paint should be applied in successive parallel stripes. Each strip should overlap the adjacent one by 10-20 mm.
It is necessary to monitor the correct ratio of air pressure and the density of the paint coming from the paint sprayer. The air pressure should be 2-3 atm. The more pressure, the thicker the paint should be, and vice versa. This is determined empirically on a test surface. Small details can be painted with a simple spray gun. For this purpose, nitro paint is diluted quite liquidly.
When painting with brushes, the type of brush hair is of no small importance. The best brushes are made of squirrel, ferret, badger and bear fur.
Before starting work, new brushes need to be wrapped (tied) at the base with a thread or thin twine. Under thick paints, the part free from strapping is made shorter, under liquid ones - longer.
During painting, the brush is held at an angle of 45-55 ° to the surface and applied light coverage and free movement. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the paint lays down in a uniform thin layer and does not form streaks.
When painting a model with nitro paints, you need to remember that they dry very quickly. Therefore, it is not necessary to draw twice in one place with a brush. Strokes should be made short, in one direction. If a large drop has fallen on the surface, it must be rubbed off immediately.
Nitro-paints are diluted with RDV solvents, No. 000, 647, 648 and 649. They cannot be diluted with acetone, as the paint dries out and cracks from it.
The coating is usually oil paints in 2-3, and with nitro paints in 10-15 layers,
Rice. 28. Load line:
A - for dry cargo ships and tankers; b - for passenger ships
The first coat of paint helps to detect remaining defects on the prepared surface. They must be removed by re-puttying and grinding.
Before applying each subsequent layer, the previous one must be well dried. Drying time for oil paints should be at least 24 hours.
When painting a model, polishing is the final step. It is produced by special polishing paste For cars or GOI paste. The paste is applied to a soft rag, a piece of felt or felt and in a circular motion the surface is brought to a mirror finish. Then it is rubbed with polishing water, kerosene or liquid oil. The coloring of the model should not differ from the coloring of real ships of this type. We can recommend the following basic rules when choosing a color scheme (color).
The surface part of warships is painted in various shades of ball (gray) color. To get it, add 5 - 7% black paint.
The surface part of passenger ships (hull and superstructures) is painted in White color. The hull of cargo and cargo-passenger ships is covered with black paint, and superstructures - white. Chimneys for ships with a white hull - white, with a black - black.
The underwater part is painted with green or red paint. The waterline is recommended to be beaten off with a strip of celluloid.
Now it is appropriate to recall the load line and how it should be depicted on the sides of a model merchant ship.
If the load line is not applied to the model of the vessel, then at the competitions during the bench evaluation of the model, you can get penalty points.
The load line is a circle or a figure resembling a comb (Fig. 28, A and b). A horizontal line is drawn through the center of the circle
the continuation of which on the "comb" is indicated by the letter L (summer stamp). This is the so-called main brand.
When sailing in winter, for the sake of safety of navigation and successful fight against a storm, the ship should not be overloaded. It should have a smaller draft and a larger freeboard, i.e., a larger margin of buoyancy. This is taken into account on the load line and marked with the letter
3 (winter stamp).
The North Atlantic is especially inhospitable in winter, a ship sailing there should be as light as possible. The allowable draft for such navigation is marked by the WSA line (winter mark for the North Atlantic).
Several "comb" lines are applied above the main - summer mark. When sailing in the tropics, the weather is usually favorable for the voyage, there is no danger of icing. The ship here can take more cargo, have a larger draft and a smaller freeboard. This is marked by the T line (tropical precipitation).
The greater the density of water, the greater its buoyancy. When a ship enters a river from the sea, its draft increases. Therefore, two more lines are marked on the "comb" - P (fresh grade) and TP (tropical fresh grade).
According to international rules, which are mandatory for all maritime powers of the world, the shape of the load line is the same everywhere. The only difference is in the letters. On Soviet merchant ships they put the letters P and C (the mark of the register of the USSR).
Load marks of foreign merchant ships are indicated by the letters of the English alphabet. For example, L and R stand for the English Society Lloyd's Register, A and B for the American Bureau of Shipping, etc.
On ships that carry timber, as well as cargo and passengers,
apply additional marks.
On timber carriers, an additional drawing is made on the load line towards the stern of the circle with the addition of the letter L (L) to all letter names - a forest freeboard.
The load line is welded in the form of steel strips on the side of the vessel to the midship frame from each side and painted in a color different from the color of the freeboard. For example, if the edge is black, then the stamp is painted white, if the edge is ball-colored, then the stamp is painted green or black.
Warships do not carry cargo lines. On them, the stems on both sides have the so-called deepening marks, or, as they are also called, draft marks. In no case should they be confused with the load line, since they serve only to measure the actual bow and stern draft at a given ^
Dimple marks are also applied on large ships, on both sides
amidships, in addition to the load line
Typically, recess marks on one side are indicated in the metric system, on the other - b feet. In the first case, the height of the figures and the distance between them is 1 dm, in the second 0.5 feet.
This toy was inspired by a group in contact, where we started a kind of flash mob on the theme of toy shipbuilding. Here is a photo of these wooden boats:
So I, as the activator of this movement, decided to keep up and also make such a ship for the kid, naturally with a photo of the whole process, so that a kind of instruction would be obtained. No sooner said than done. Took my son out of kindergarten early and ran into the garage.
We found a suitable board and began to create. First, the nose of the boat was cut out on a miter saw (the corner was cut off), the son sawed himself, was madly happy, and I sat next to him and controlled his every movement))). Do not look that the knees are within reach of the saw and the wire is there)))- the picture is staged, the child is standing next to him steadily, in full growth, holding the saw with both hands))) no one was hurt during the work))) 
It turned out such a shtaketin. I think it’s not worth dwelling too much on the fact that it’s fashionable to do without a miter saw. (and there will be less gray hair) 
Then he cut the workpiece a little. At this point, I drove my son away from the electric planer (he was offended, but did not go far). 
With a plane, I not only removed the burrs, but also gave the deck its original shape - flat, the bottom was slightly filled up to the sides, forming a kind of keel. The photo doesn't look good... 
Then he pulled the board to the workbench with a pair of clamps, picked up the LSHM and began to bring the contours of the hull to mind ... 
He polished the bottom and deck, narrowed the hull, filled up the sides and the bow. In general, he did beautifully. 
The next step was the manufacture of a cutout for the wheel. At first I wanted to choose it beautifully with a router, but then I got too lazy to mess around and I did it with a jigsaw. Marked out. Drilled a couple of holes in the corners 
And then I connected all these points with a jigsaw. At the same time, the hull was separated from the "stockway". 
After that, he shoved a case, sandpaper in Yaroslavka's teeth, gave out the TsU: "so to speak, from the fence to sunset" and set to work on the mover. 
I took plywood as the material. There was no three-layer, therefore, with the help of a knife, a hammer and some kind of mother, he made the required from the six-layer. Modified with a file (or rather, the same LShM). From the resulting pieces I cut out a couple of identical parts in size "so that they can fit into the wheel niche with a margin." 
Pulling them out with a clamp on the LSHM (inverted) made them the same and rounded the edges. Then I marked the center and made a cut to the middle. 
Details assembled with each other "in the groove." The village is quite dense, I even had to help with a hammer a little ... It turned out like this. 
The time allotted for us before training was running out, so the idea with the Lego captain had to be abandoned, for hastily carved a whole felling and we ran home. In the kitchen, I stuck a cabin for a moment, clamped it with a clamp and everyone ran to train))))) 
In the evening, just as the glue dried up, sit down to finish it. stole a couple of sushi sticks from mom and put them into action: We drilled seats for the paddle wheel holders and the mast 
And they put all this diversity on glue. At the same time, they made a rai from a toothpick. 
After that, they pulled on the rubber bands (a pair of pharmaceutical rubber bands were used), put the wheel on and proceeded to sea trials. 
I must say that the idea works. For good, of course, it would be necessary to impregnate the ship with something to protect it from moisture, and add rubber bands for power ... But the child is satisfied with the result, in principle, too. 
So, dear dads, we make our own boats and put them in a group)))). Then we will arrange a vote and choose the winner if there are at least a dozen.
How to make a sailboat
2nd Sailboat Model Drawing Enlarge
To install masts on the main deck 2 and aft deck 4, drill holes with a diameter of 5 mm. To give the decks the shape of boards, draw parallel lines on them with a hard pencil every 4 mm.
Assemble the body of the model using PVA glue. First, assemble the keel 1 with the bottom 3. then glue the main deck 2 and the aft deck 4 with gluing partitions 7 and 8 between them, and then the transom 5. When the glue dries and all parts of the sailboat hull are glued, clean them with a file and sandpaper, preparing way the surface for installing the side skin.
Glue the final set of the hull with the side skin, cut according to the template from millimetric plywood, thick cardboard, and drawing paper, leaving a small allowance on the sides and bottom, then glue it to the model's hull. After the glue has dried, clean the plywood sheathing with a file and sandpaper, and clean the excess cardboard with a knife.
The hull of the sailboat is ready. For its safety and convenience in further work, a stand (keel block) is needed. Make its base from a pine plank 130 mm long and 8-15 mm thick. In it, cut two holes for the spike for the stand, cut out two side posts from plywood 4-5 mm thick and glue them into the holes in the base of the stand. Thoroughly clean the finished stand and paint with oil varnish or paint.
Make the masts of the sailboat from thin rails. The diameter of the mast at the base is 5 mm, and at the top 3. at the bowsprit, respectively, 4 and 2.5 mm. The length of the foremast is 160, the mainmast is 220, the mizzen-mast is 160 and the bowsprit is 150 mm.
Upon completion of work, before installing the spars (above-deck equipment), paint the model hull in the following colors: lower and outer keel - in red or black, sides - in white, orange, blue, deck - with varnish.
Do-it-yourself model of the flagship "Prince Suvorov"
Do-it-yourself model of the flagship "Prince Suvorov"
On May 14, 1905, at 13:49, a shot was fired from the battleship Eagle, which signaled the naval battle at Tsushima. Immediately, a return shot rang out. The sea around the flagship "Prince Suvorov" boiled from explosions filled with "mimosa" shells. The "Asian Nelson", as the Japanese press of the commander of the Japanese fleet, Admiral Toyu, used a favorite technique: fire of all calibers - on the lead ship of the squadron in order to destroy it in the first place.
The Japanese have an advantage in artillery and speed. Having covered the head of the Russian wake column, they put our flagship in an extremely difficult position with a soft bed with their own hands. Already 35 minutes after the start of the battle, he lost control. And when the 2nd Pacific Squadron, which was following its previous course, disappeared from sight, the wounded battleship practically had no chance. The Japanese rushed at him, trying to finish off or force him to surrender.
But "Asian Nelson" still did not take into account one factor. And in a hopeless situation, the Suvorov crew continued to resist! Such was the spirit of Russian sailors! One can only guess under what conditions the sailors and officers fought this unequal battle. But for another five hours, the wounded battleship, which, it seemed, should already be lying at the bottom of the Tsushima Strait, fired back from the only surviving 75-mm cannon. Only a direct hit by a torpedo put an end to the fight. "Prince Suvorov" disappeared under water, taking with him more than 800 people to make wooden stairs with your own hands. Nobody knows how many of them were alive.
The feat of "Suvorov" is outstanding in the history of naval battles. Only the sad outcome of Tsushima - the tragedy of our fleet - did not allow us to appreciate it. "Prince Suvorov" is one of the five battleships that left the St. Petersburg slipways at the very beginning of the century and formed the core of the 2nd Pacific squadron. Ships of this type carried and developed the advantages of the flagship of the Port Arthur squadron "Tsesarevich", built in France "Tsesarevich" - one of the most advanced ships of its time. It had the best anti-torpedo protection in the world and excellent firing angles for medium artillery placed in six turrets. True, it was inferior to Japanese ships in freeboard armor. The drawings received from France were radically reworked by our engineers. The unprotected 75-mm battery received armor, the silhouette of the ship changed somewhat, bulky combat mars disappeared, and the displacement increased.
In 1899, on the slipway of the New Admiralty plant, the ceremony of laying the head battleship, called the Borodino, took place. And after that, the Emperor Alexander III, Eagle, Prince Suvorov and Glory were laid.
All of them retained the French "genes": they were high, with a characteristic obstruction of the sides (to ensure stability with a large "upper" weight), they had medium artillery in the turrets located in a rhombus. During construction, changes were made to the armor scheme, the placement of some parts and equipment so that the ships were slightly different from each other.
The fate of this largest series of battleships in the entire history of our fleet turned out to be tragic. “Borodino”, “Alexander III” and “Prince Suvorov” died in the Tsushima battle. The main reason is the overload of ships. By the time of the battle, the 2nd Pacific Squadron had made a long transition, but its holds were still full of cargo. Because of this, the armor belt of the ships sank into the water at the slightest roll, and the compartments were flooded through holes in the unarmored side. Even small-caliber shells were dangerous.
After receiving heavy damage in the battle, the battleship "Eagle" was surrounded by the Japanese and lowered the flag only after the admiral's order. Already reconstructed, he took part in the battle as part of the Japanese fleet. It was named "Ivami". In 1924, the Battleship died on maneuvers in which he was used as a floating target to make a bed with his own hands. The ship "Glory" became the last battleship. He took part in the battle with the Kaiser's fleet and after 12 years was flooded.
The most advantageous type of ship for a desktop copy is the battleship Knyaz Suvorov. A spectacular view is created by the full contours of the hull, multi-tiered superstructures, and a "littered" side.
The recommended scale for making a copy by beginners is 1: 400. In this case, some of the details can be borrowed from the plastic model of the Potemkin battleship, produced by the Moscow Ogonyok plant.
Figure captions for the drawings of the battleship "Prince Suvorov"
1 - bale straps,
3 - spire,
4 - bollards,
5 - davits,
6 - 47 mm Hotchkiss guns,
7 - spotlight,
8 - outboard ladder,
9 - central bridge,
10 - shot,
11 - krambol,
12 - Martin's anchor,
13 — bow stem torpedo tube,
14 - rails for moving spotlights,
15 - barbet 152-mm towers,
16 - steam winch,
17 - skylights,
18 - gangways,
19 - necks of coal pits,
20 - conning tower,
21 - compasses.
For the body, you can use: a wooden beam, a piece of foam or plexiglass. Such glass is well glued and processed, does not require, unlike wood and foam, finishing with putty.
If you choose plexiglass, then the blank will be several glued sheets. The section can be seen in Figure 1. To facilitate the work on the very complex contours of the armadillo, each sheet of plexiglass should be cut in the ratio of the “half-width” of the figure. To build a projection of the hull, you need to draw horizontal lines through the gaps corresponding to the thickness of the material. After it is required to measure the distance from the hull axis to the intersection with each of the frames, it is transferred to the plan with a given scale of the drawing. The “stepped” body made of Plexiglas sheets can be easily modified to necessary forms. According to these drawings, you can design other similar models of armadillos. Of course, do not forget about the differences. For example, the Borodino stems are more concave and it had three-bladed propellers. The wheelhouses, bow bridges differed, and magnetic compasses were installed differently. "Slava" is very similar to the battleship "Suvorov", the difference is the absence of combat mars on the masts.
The ships of the 2nd Pacific Squadron had the following color: black hulls and superstructures, red underwater part, yellow and black pipes, bronze propellers and the natural color of the wood - the deck.
Download detailed drawings of the flagship model "Prince Suvorov"
wood with their own hands
Models of sailing ships made of wood with their own hands
Do-it-yourself wooden sailboat ship models - or Sudomodeling
When helping your son to assemble models, carefully study the contents of the box (wooden plates with laser-cut parts, bundles of rails, boxes with small “handy things”, rigging threads, sticker sheets, instructions). prepare tools, glue and start working. It happens that boys are guided in dozens of details much faster than adults. And if you also play along with him so that he feels almost on a par
with you, praise for quick wit and attentiveness, the boy will surely like to assemble models, a business where even DAD HIMSELF counts with his opinion! At the same time, one must understand that it is often beyond the power of children to assemble on their own sometimes very intricate details of sailboat hulls, and especially to understand the intricacies of rigging, and adults cannot find time to come to the rescue. Try not to leave a young modeler alone with a serious design and a problem that arises.
And most importantly, you need to understand that assembling wooden models of sailboats gives an incredible amount of a wide variety of skills that will be in demand in any home (after all, today's boy, tomorrow he is the head and support of the family, the owner and master, dad, who “can do anything. ") to buy accordion doors in St. Petersburg. First of all, these are, of course, the skills that boys most need - precise manual labor, the ability to read blueprints, accuracy, attentiveness, calmness, perseverance, the ability to achieve the goal, to win a small, but victory.The ability to handle hand and power tools, because in modeling they use a cutter knife, a jigsaw, a hammer, a drill, and grinding materials and tools.We do not forget about artistic skills, because often a model of a ship needs to be painted, varnished, giving her finished look.From the point of view of physical development - small parts perfectly develop fine motor skills hands From the point of view of the development of thinking - the assembly of models is an absolutely creative process, at any stage of the assembly you can make any changes that seem more correct to you, but at the same time calculate the consequences of the changes made, improve and make it more rational and more consistent yourself technological process sailboat assembly. And if we take into account that almost every model has its own historical prototype, then you can spend whole evenings immersing yourself in the “life history” of your ship. And the result of many hours of "carpentry" and "rigging" work will be its own Gallery of historically accurate models of sailboats and admiring exclamations of loved ones, relatives and friends. Imagine a rack with the ships of Columbus: the important Santa Maria, the confident Pinta, the nimble Nina, united in a flotilla by a man’s idea of discovering the New World… Maybe for you the models of these ships will become a symbol of the discovery of the New World, your New World because “nothing compares to the pleasure of creating New world with your own hands."
Well, and most importantly, by assembling a ship model with your son, you not only instill in him the necessary skills, you replenish male communication, accustom to unity
when achieving a common goal, raise the bar of your own
no authority in the eyes of the boy. Read the epigraph to the article thoughtfully again - everything is in your hands ... Assembling wooden models of ships is a hobby that helps the boys not only in understanding the world, but also in the development of truly masculine qualities. Collect models of sailboats - this is a hobby for real men!
Well, the "Old Boatswain" shipyard will help you with the selection and purchase of a kit for assembling a wooden model of a ship from the world's leading manufacturers of such kits.
With respect and gratitude to all who read, Vladimir
wooden ship models sailing ships, prefabricated models of sailboats
The element of water at all times attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open before you is the most amazing thing that can happen in life. In order to go sailing, you need to build a ship with your own hands. Let it not be as huge as the Titanic, the main thing is that you created it yourself.
Our online store offers unique models of ships to all fans of the sea element. With them, each of you can become a captain, a sailor and even an admiral of the navy, you just have to want to. The presented prefabricated models of ships are reduced copies of real-life and existing prototypes. Here you will find not only wooden models of ships and great sailboats, which are known for their resounding victories at sea and round the world voyages, but also models of sailboats that are used in modern times.
To breathe in the salty sea air, hear the cries of seagulls above your head and see how the wind fills the sails, it is enough to buy a sailboat. All models of sailing ships are a unique design, which, thanks to the skillful hands of the master, begins to turn into a real sailboat as it is assembled. In a scale model, everything is exactly the same as in a real do-it-yourself transformer bed. Every detail of the sailing facility is available, even such small details as lifebuoys and cockpits have a place to be. By creating various sailing ships with your own hands, in the end you can create a huge armada.
For those who are closer to classic wooden ships, they will also be able to choose a scale model to their liking. It was the models of ships made of wood that were among the first created by man. Large-scale wooden ships are light, maneuverable and are not afraid of the depths of the sea. Each of you can become a brave captain of such a vessel.
From the era of the creation of the first sailing ship to the present day, master designers create new models to conquer the water element. Collecting such unique models is the prerogative of only true connoisseurs of the endless expanses of the sea. Join the ranks of real sea wolves and the wind will fill your sails!
Sailboat Model.mp4
Description:
Wooden model of a 17th century galleon. Fully handmade. dimensions 160x140x60 cm. For purchase inquiries, write to: [email protected]
