Drying oil Oksol - why is she the right one? Drying oil. Types of drying oil and composition of drying oil What does natural drying oil consist of

Wood is very often used in construction and everyday life, but Oksol drying oil will help protect it from the destructive effects of insects and time. Let's get acquainted with the features of this composition, its characteristics and, of course, dwell on the practical part.

Purpose and principle of operation of drying oil

The principle of operation is that most oils, upon contact with oxygen, heat and light, thicken very intensively, and a thin layer completely hardens. This is due to fatty acid glycerides, because their amount and the degree of iodine number (an indicator of the number of double bonds in the carbon chain) are directly proportional to the rate of setting of the agent. Linen and hemp compositions of drying oil Oksol (GOST 190–78) are most effective, since the oils of these plants have 80% and 70% of glycerides of linoleic and linolenic acids, respectively, and the iodine number exceeds 150.

It should be noted that in its natural form, any vegetable oil hardens for quite a long time, and in order to accelerate this property, it is subjected to heat treatment. When heated, the hardening-retarding substances decompose, and salts provoke rapid oxidation. In addition, special compounds are introduced that contribute to its rapid drying (driers). As a result, the film deposited on the surface becomes solid within 6 to 36 hours.

Types of drying oils and their features

There are several varieties. Natural 97% consist of plant oils (sunflower or flax), the rest is occupied by a desiccant. Their main purpose is to dilute paints and treat wooden surfaces in rooms. Such drying oils are divided into oxidized and polymerized. The latter have a darker color, and products treated with it age faster.

Characteristics of drying oil Oksol (GOST 190–78) practically do not differ from natural. It is applied to internal and external works. But the composition also includes a solvent, which gives a pungent odor. Also, this type is cheaper than the previous one. Drying oil Oksol is produced in two grades - "V" and "PV". The first are created on the basis of flax or hemp oils. To create the second, petroleum polymer resins and other technical oils are used. Therefore, when working with drying oil, especially the PV brand, you should be extremely careful, wear respirators and protective gloves.

Often Oksol is marked "combined", "composite" or "semi-natural", which once again proves its origin. But sometimes it makes a fundamental difference for those who care about composition. Combined Oksol received rapeseed oil as a natural component, while sunflower oil was mainly used for production. But the situation was complicated by the fact that the new component belongs to the class of non-drying ones. Then it was pre-oxidized, and as a result, the combined Oxol received the same characteristics as the original version of the composition.

In the broad sense of the word, combined drying oil is obtained by mixing oils of several plants or those that have undergone different processing, the addition of synthetic substances and a solvent is also allowed.. The use of this option is more common in the preparation of paints. Drying oil of several brands is produced. In the designation, the first is the letter "K", followed by a number. If the marking indicates an even number, then the mixture is used for internal works, and odd - for coloring outdoor objects.

The last type is synthetic compounds. The basis for paints is alkyd drying oil, its cost is much lower than oil, which is a definite plus. Another type is compositional compositions. Their quality is not high enough, and due to increased toxicity, use is limited only to outdoor work. When choosing synthetic drying oils, one should be extremely careful, since if at least a small deposit of natural oils is present in them, then the layer after painting may not dry out for a very long time. The presence of such inclusions can be determined visually. This mixture has a reddish tint and a black precipitate.

Specifications - we study GOST

Drying oil Oksol (GOST 190–78) is characterized by the following properties. Due to the solvent, it has a pungent odor that does not disappear immediately. The time of complete drying is no more than a day. In addition, drying oil Oksol is highly flammable and toxic, therefore, when working with it, all safety rules should be followed.

According to GOST 190–78, marking is carried out depending on the composition, for example, drying oil “B”, which has excellent properties, is made only from hemp and linseed oil. It can be used both for dilution and for the manufacture of oil paints. It is also acceptable to carry out external and internal painting work. Drying oil "PV", created on the basis of other technical vegetable oils (sunflower, grape, soybean, corn, etc.), has a similar purpose, but its use is limited only to indoor work.

Both types of Oksoli cannot be used for painting floors.

The technical characteristics of drying oil Oksol are indicated in GOST 190–78, but nevertheless we will dwell on them in more detail. The acid number for type "B" is no more than 6 mg KOH/g, and for "PV" - 8 mg KOH/g. An exception is drying oil based on sunflower oil, in this case, this indicator can reach 10. It is unacceptable for the sediment to exceed 1%, transparency must be complete. The mass fraction of non-volatile substances ranges from 54.5 to 55.5%, regardless of the brand. The flash point in a closed crucible is above 32 °C.

Drying oil Oksol is stored mainly in metal containers, but it is strictly forbidden to open it with tools that give a spark. When transporting, it is necessary to use the transport marking, namely the “Keep away from heat” sign. In more detail, all the characteristics of the composition, as well as safety requirements, test methods and acceptance rules are described in GOST 190–78.

The wisdom of coloring products with Oksol

Now consider the features of the use of drying oil Oksol. In general, there is no great difficulty in this, but we want to highlight some of the nuances, so we will analyze the order of work.

How to paint products with drying oil Oksol - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Preparatory Stage

Due to the pungent odor and toxic emissions, special attention should be paid to safety. All work is carried out in overalls, respiratory organs also need special protection, so you should prepare a respirator in advance, and rubber gloves are put on your hands. If the composition has got on the skin, then it is necessary to immediately wipe it off with a rag moistened with vegetable oil, and wash the damaged area well with warm water and soap. Avoid getting drying oil in the organs of vision. In addition, in the premises where work is carried out, the presence of open fire. And all lighting sources and electrical equipment must be reliably protected from explosions. And make sure you have good ventilation.

Drying oil or "boiled oil" (as it was called in ancient times) is a liquid composition that forms a film, which is formed as a result of the processing of vegetable oils (by oxidation or prolonged heat treatment) or fatty alkyd resins, also called desiccants. Drying oil is used as a protective impregnation for a variety of surfaces, as a primer before painting, as a basis for different types paint and even acts as a coating for interior decor.

Based on the components, drying oil is classified into the following types:

1. natural;
2. semi-natural;
3. synthetic.

The most widespread at the moment are the following types: natural, oxol drying oil and combined. In addition, alkyd, and even composite ones are often used.

According to GOST, the product in question must consist of at least 97% natural vegetable oil (drying or semi-drying, as well as mixtures thereof, mainly flax oil, occasionally sunflower, soybean, hemp oil).

During production, oils are subjected to prolonged exposure high temperatures(not less than 300°C) for 12 hours, the next step is to use air blowing.

As a result, we get an oily, opaque, thick liquid consistency of rich brown, and sometimes greenish color with a slight smell of the base oil.

Linseed oil based on linseed oil looks like a light-colored liquid, transparent and oily.

Its main purpose is to perform the following tasks:

• priming of various surfaces: wood, metal or previously plastered;
• manufacturing and obtaining the required consistency of light-colored thick paint, putty, grease paste;
• as a paint compound light color used indoors and outdoors for painting metal structures, windows and doorways, flooring.

For complete drying room temperature it will take no more than a day.

Drying oil from hemp oil is dark in appearance and due to this it is mainly in demand, as well as drying oil from linseed oil, but when dark tones are required. Dries similarly for no more than a day.

Drying oil from sunflower oil dries much worse and it will take much more time than a day to dry completely. In addition, the film turns out, although quite elastic, but loses to the drying oils discussed above. according to indicators such as:

• hardness;
• strength;
• water resistance.

Table 1. Indicators of oil drying oils.

Representatives of this species also received their second name "oxol", technologically they are also made from oils, but subjected to oxidation, with the addition of solvents and desiccants. In this case, in percentage terms, the oil occupies 55%, the solvent (the most commonly used white spirit) is at least 40%. Due to this composition, the liquid has a rather unpleasant and pungent odor, which can last for some time even after drying.

At cost, oxol is much more cost-effective than natural, but at the same time it has practically no differences in basic properties and is almost identical in appearance.

Oxol made from flax oil is most valued - the film of such a product is distinguished by its hardness, elasticity, water resistance and, what is remarkable, the greatest durability.

For even greater reduction in cost, they are also produced from sunflower oil, but its film is much lower in terms of characteristics than from flax oil.

Drying oil combined

This type of drying oil is almost identical to semi-natural, except for the percentage: the percentage of oil is about 70% and 30% remains for the solvent. They are obtained by polymerization and dehydration of drying and semi-drying oils. The main direction for the use of this product is the production of thick paints. Industrially produce grades K-2, 3, 4, 5. The time of complete drying does not exceed a day.

Table 2. Indicators of combined drying oils.

Drying oils alkyd

The thermochemical processing of the semi-drying and non-drying oil gives the resulting alkyd drying oil a high drying capacity. In addition, in terms of the totality of properties, it has higher values ​​for hardness, durability, water resistance and weather resistance than oxol drying oils. Thereby this species is considered as more promising, since it allows to reduce the cost of vegetable oil for production. The only drawback can be called thickening during storage, which is due to the fact that free fatty acids, of which a large number react with mineral pigments and insoluble metal soaps appear. This does not allow using the product for the manufacture of thick paint, but does not prevent mass use for diluting them to the required consistency.

This type is currently considered the cheapest and this is what made it quite widely used. After all, the main component is not natural oil or resin, but their substitutes, most often various products obtained during oil refining. The composition of such drying oils may be different, since they are produced not on the basis of GOST, but according to technical conditions. In their appearance, they also differ significantly - the color is often light, the transparency is much higher than that of oil-based formulations. Also, the disadvantages include a very pungent odor and a longer drying process. The most common representatives are slate drying oil and, of course, ethinol.

Oil shale oil looks like a liquid of a darkish color, as it was noted, there is a pungent smell and is a derivative of the process of oxidation of shale oil with further dissolution in xylene. Dries a little more than a day. It has good weather resistance. The main direction of use is dark tinting, dilution of paints to the required consistency, which are used mainly for outdoor work and sometimes indoors for painting surfaces of their metal, wood and covered with plaster. It is forbidden to use this drying oil for application on floor materials and objects used in everyday life.

Drying oil ethinol, on the contrary, looks like a transparent liquid of a lightish tone, with the same specific smell and is made from waste obtained in the manufacture of chloroprene rubber.

The film dries quickly after application, is glossy, very hard, resistant to alkali and acid, but, unfortunately, with poor weather resistance.

Often this species is used as an additive to other drying oils, but not more than 15%. The main direction was the manufacture of paints and primers for metal on its basis.

Table 3. Indicators of synthetic drying oils.

Drying oil application

Work procedure

1. Before starting work, it is required to clean and degrease the surface to be treated.
2. If the composition on semi-natural drying oil is used in the work, then it is recommended to apply it only on a dry surface.
3. When using drying oil and paint products based on it, it is recommended to apply with a brush, roller or paint sprayer.

The average operating expense when using semi-natural drying oil is from 150 to 200g. on cubic meter. As already noted, the duration of drying during natural drying will take no more than a day.

Drying oil storage

Based on the fact that the drying oil contains oil and solvents, it belongs to explosive and flammable materials, therefore, in the room where work is performed, natural ventilation or equipment is required forced ventilation in explosion-proof execution. In case of contact with human skin surfaces, it is necessary to wipe off and rinse well with soapy water. When storing drying oil, it is required to ensure that the container is tightly closed and protected from moisture and sun rays, was located far from the fires and electrical appliances. When thickening, it is allowed to dilute the drying oil with any solvent available to you suitable for oil paints in a ratio of 1:10.

The choice of drying oil

Before you buy drying oil, you need to carefully consider what is in the container. First, you should determine by color whether it corresponds to the declared type of product. In addition, you should carefully read the description of the components and check whether it complies with GOST if you purchase semi-natural or natural drying oil. They will have a certificate of conformity, and for a composite one - only hygienic. In general, you should be careful with the use of the latter, since it is toxic and it is important to note that it should not contain oil residues (the so-called fuse) and osprey (oil refining residues), otherwise the drying process will become endless. And finally, it should be noted - carefully inspect the liquid for uniformity, sediment or mechanical particles should not be present.

As noted earlier, the main purpose of these products is to treat various surfaces, they are also indispensable in the production of paints. If you stop at surface treatment, then drying oil for wood is great. It is used both for impregnation of products and walls in general. But for external work, it is recommended to apply drying oil only for preparation before further painting. And it would be more optimal to use oxol or alkyd drying oil. natural better fit for interior work (due to environmental friendliness and lack of smell) and to obtain the required consistency of paints.

In the manufacture of paints, almost all types are involved. So, natural becomes the basis for thickened, and alkyd is an excellent base for oil. Only composite is not used due to low quality.

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Fashion on natural materials in construction, furniture production, interior decoration has already become a tradition. And it is wood that continues to be in trend due to its environmental and aesthetic properties. But, unlike artificial materials, wooden coatings and structures can deteriorate under the influence of adverse environmental factors, such as moisture, direct sunlight.

Partial or complete impregnation of wood with linseed oil has been known since the time of the Egyptian pyramids, however, wood processing with linseed oil is still relevant today. Next, we will analyze in detail what drying oils are and for what purposes certain types are used, plus you will learn recipes for mixtures based on drying oils and get answers to 5 frequently asked questions on this topic.

Coating a tree with drying oil is considered one of the most effective and repeatedly proven ways to protect the array.

What is drying oil

Drying oil is a film-forming substance based on natural, semi-natural or synthetic oil. The color range of the compositions ranges from golden yellow to dark brown. Depending on the type, drying oils have different levels of transparency.

Important! If the drying oil is dark and absolutely not transparent, this indicates an extremely low quality or you are offered a rough fake.

To some extent, drying oil is used in all types of finishing works. It can be used as a primer for wood, concrete and metal. On the basis of drying oil, thickened and oil paints. It is added to putties and putties. At decorative works ah on wood, drying oil can act as an impregnation.

The use of drying oil for wood for outdoor use and for indoor use provides protection against moisture

Variety of drying oils

A hundred years ago, drying oils were divided only by the type of natural oil from which they are made, now this direction occupies no more than 30 - 40% of the total market, and semi-synthetic and synthetic compounds prevail on the market. In general, drying oils are divided into 4 types:

• natural compounds;
• Semi-natural compounds;
• Combined formulations;
• Synthetic compounds.

Each composition was developed for its own, sometimes narrowly focused goals, so it’s not correct to talk about good or bad drying oil

natural formulations

Basically, drying oil is made from 3 types of oil - these are linseed, hemp and sunflower. Other types of natural oils are used extremely rarely, often special formulations are made from them, for narrowly targeted purposes. All natural drying oils are guided by a single GOST 7931-76.

Important! In addition to dehydrated natural oil, the so-called desiccant is added to all types of drying oil, it plays the role of a hardener and occupies no more than 3-4% in the total composition.

Photo	Characteristics
	. Compositions based on natural linseed oil are considered the highest quality. There is nothing superfluous here, only boiled oil and a small percentage of desiccant. It is used as a primer when finishing critical areas or processing expensive wood; · Light paints, putties and putties are made from linseed drying oil; · The price for it is high, so this drying oil is not used for outdoor woodwork - it is simply impractical.
	. Hemp oil formulations are also different high quality, in fact, the only drawback of hemp drying oil is its dark color, respectively, only dark paints, putties and primers can be made from it.
	. Sunflower drying oil is cheaper than linen and hemp, plus it has high elasticity. But these compositions dry one and a half times longer, and most importantly, the strength and water resistance of such drying oil is lower than that of other natural counterparts.

If we take the color, then the lightest and most transparent will be sunflower drying oil, followed by linen, it is much darker. Hemp drying oil closes the rating, it is the darkest.

Semi-natural compounds, oxoli

Semi-natural drying oils are called oxols, they are made according to GOST 190-78. According to the rules, 55% is natural oil, 40% goes to a solvent (white spirit or nefras) and 5% desiccant.

Oksols are considered universal compositions and can be used both for wood processing and for application to concrete or metal.

There are 2 types of oxols, they are marked as "B" and "PV". Drying oil marked "B" is made on natural oil with the addition of a solvent and a desiccant, and in compositions marked "PV" there are still petrochemical additives that enhance certain characteristics.

It is not recommended to use oxols for treating wet rooms, for example, baths, but they are great for protecting wood, fiberboard and chipboard in dry rooms, plus oxols dry faster than natural compounds. The mechanical strength here is average, so it is not advisable to treat floors with oxols.

Oxoli are an order of magnitude cheaper than natural types of drying oil

Combined formulations

Combined drying oils are regulated according to GOST 19007. They differ from oxols in a lower percentage of solvent in the composition, often this figure does not exceed 30%. Combined drying oils contain more modifiers and fewer toxic additives.

Important! Combined compositions are marked with the letter "K" and a numerical coefficient from 1 to 12. So, drying oils with even coefficients are intended for internal work, and with odd ones, for external work.

Combined types of drying oil are more focused on the preparation of paints and other compounds

Synthetic compounds

As the name implies, synthetic compounds are made on the basis of artificial materials. Oil and coal are used for their production. Plus, synthetic drying oils come as a by-product in the production of artificial types of rubber.

The distinguishing feature of these compositions is dark color and a strong chemical smell. Often, such drying oil is used for the manufacture of putties for facade work. Synthetics cannot be used indoors, firstly, the smell practically does not disappear, and secondly, there is a threat of poisoning for people.

Polymer-based compositions are highly undesirable for indoor use.

The only relatively high quality polymer composition alkyd drying oil is considered, up to 30% of natural oils can be added to it. But these drying oils are not desirable to use for interior work.

Important! The consumption of drying oil per 1m2 on wood is approximately equal to the consumption of oil paint. According to the instructions, up to 130 grams, but this is an average figure, so when processing dry and clean wood, it takes up to 250 grams, and after applying 2 layers, the consumption is reduced to 100 grams.

Selection tips and answers to 5 common questions

• When choosing, pay attention to the label, natural and semi-natural compounds are classified according to GOST, and synthetics are produced according to TU ( specifications). Plus drying oil must have a hygienic certificate;
• The quality is indicated by the uniformity of the composition, there should be no sediment at the bottom;
• As already mentioned, drying oil can be different color, but the composition should be relatively transparent.

Surface treatment

Before applying drying oil, the wood must be cleaned and degreased with white spirit or acetone (25%). The array must be dry, according to the rules, the maximum humidity is 16%.

White spirit will allow you to clean the surface of the array from serious contamination and prepare the tree for subsequent finishing.

Application and formulation recipes

Drying oil is applied in the same way as any paint, that is, with the help of a brush, roller or swab. For application with an airbrush, the composition must be diluted, but it is better for an amateur not to undertake such work.

Illustrations	Recipes
	Usually used for impregnation small parts natural compounds. The product is placed in a container with drying oil and heated in a water bath for 4 - 8 hours, the drying time after hot impregnation is 4 - 5 days. Advice! If red lead (2 - 3%) is added to drying oil, then the product will dry out in a couple of days.
	The compositions are mixed in a ratio of 1:1. Can be soaked hot or cold. In a water bath, the product will be impregnated in 3 hours, and in a cold solution in 2 days. The product dries 2 - 3 days.
	Drying oil 5 parts, turpentine 1 part and paraffin 8 parts are taken. Initially, in a water bath, mix turpentine with paraffin, after which we add drying oil. The composition is applied warm, dries up to 3 days.
	Take 20 parts of drying oil and 3 parts of wax. Drying oil is heated in a water bath, after which crushed wax is added to it. It is applied to the tree in a warm or hot form, dries up to 3 days.

If you are interested in impregnating wood with oil and wax, then all the recipes are there.

Drying

The drying time of drying oil depends on the type of composition itself, air humidity and temperature. So optimum temperature for drying wood is 20 - 30ºС, with a relative humidity of up to 70%.

Compositions with polymetallic desiccants dry best of all, for example, drying oil with the addition of a lead desiccant dries in 20 hours, a manganese desiccant reduces the process to 12 hours. And if you mix both of these desiccants, then the composition will dry in 8 hours.

It is desirable to dry the wood indoors without drafts. It is not worth it to specially increase the temperature with the help of heaters or install fans, the coating may crack.

It is better to dry the wood indoors at a temperature of 25 - 30ºС

Drying oil replacement

When performing high-quality decorative work, it is difficult to replace drying oil with something, but if we are talking about rough work, then for these purposes you can use folk recipe casein impregnation. By the way, the coating looks decent and dries quickly.

• Casein - 20 parts;
• Soap solution - 3 parts;
• Slaked lime - 10 parts;
• Turpentine - 7 parts.

During cooking, casein, soap solution and slaked lime are first mixed, later turpentine is added. At the finish, we get a composition visually similar to drying oil. If the precipitate "bounces", then you need to add a little ammonia.

Conclusion

Currently drying oil application decreased significantly, possibly due to the appearance of construction market, a large number of funds with a new composition. Although there are still consumers who have not abandoned the use of drying oil in repair and construction work.
Now three types of drying oil are produced: natural, combined and oxol.

natural drying oil

Natural drying oil consists of: 97% vegetable (linseed) oil, 3% desiccant. It is an opaque thick liquid, dark Brown, has a slight odor. It is mainly used for dilution of paints and impregnation of wooden surfaces. For work indoors, natural drying oil is ideal, it is practically odorless, easy to use, does not emit toxins. For outdoor work, the use of natural drying oil is not beneficial.

Drying oil oksol

The purpose of oxoli is to work indoors, it can process wooden and plastered surfaces, it improves the adhesion of paints and fillers. For outdoor work, do not forget that the oxol is intended for temporary preservation of the material; varnish, paint or enamel should be applied on top. Sunflower oil-based oxol can be a good alternative to the buyer; it is also used when working indoors.

Composite drying oil

Composite drying oil: its composition varies to some extent, but mostly these are synthetic substitutes, or rather, oil refining substances. Therefore, it is less costly. The difference between composite drying oil and natural and oxol in the external factor. It is liquid and lighter, sometimes has a reddish tint. A pungent smell and a long drying time also distinguishes composite drying oil from all the others. It is not used to work indoors, this drying oil is very toxic and harmful. In addition, even after drying, composite drying oil continues to smell for many more years. It has not found application in the paint and varnish industry, since the resulting coating is of poor quality.

We study the label

For processing and impregnation of wooden surfaces, all types of drying oil are used. The resistance of drying oil to weathering, loses to other paints and varnishes. In the end, it must be said that when purchasing drying oil, you need to be very careful. Pay attention to packaging and drying oil color. Examine the label, which should contain all information about the manufacturer of this product, the number of GOST or TU. Read about the composition of the product, instructions for its use. Check the availability of a certificate of conformity and a hygiene certificate. The first is issued for natural drying oil and oxol, the next for composite drying oil. The degree of drying oil quality can be determined by its homogeneous composition, it must be without mechanical additives and without sediment. The weaker the smell, the better.

When building and decorating houses, wood is often used, because it is one of the most environmentally friendly materials. However, in order for the wooden elements of your home to last as long as possible, so that they are not destroyed by fungus and insects, they must be protected. This task is easily handled by a tool such as drying oil.

Application of impregnation

The use of drying oil allows you to increase the service life of wooden structural elements for decades. This is especially true for rafters, because they are constantly exposed to moisture. Drying oils are synthetic and natural, purely homogeneous, polydiene, synthetically modified, slate, coumarone-indene, etc. The use of this agent will not harm either people or animals. After all, it is based on vegetable oil (up to 97%). Impregnation of facade wooden elements with drying oil allows you to protect them from temperature extremes and air humidity and, of course, from atmospheric influences. When processing a wooden surface with this composition, a solid, but at the same time elastic, is formed on it, which protects the tree from external influences, including from damage by a fungus. Natural drying oil is made from sunflower, soybean oil. The best product is based on linseed oil.

Currently, there are many impregnations that have chemical basis, with excellent, by the way, characteristics. But at the same time, drying oil has not lost its relevance. The use of natural impregnation, in addition to environmental friendliness, has another important advantage - this is the cheapness of such material. Drying oil is mainly intended for interior decoration, its use in outdoor work gives only a temporary effect, requiring further coating with oil or varnish. In the manufacture of putties, drying oil is also used. The use of such funds protects wooden surfaces from decay. The use of drying oil as a pre-treatment also reduces the varnish when performing paintwork. Usually the product is applied in two or three layers, and after that the surface is painted. It is also recommended to heat the impregnation to a temperature of 80-90 degrees Celsius, and then apply it hot to the tree. Thus, a better and deeper penetration of the composition into the pores of the tree is achieved.

Drying oil: impregnation characteristics

Now drying oil of three types is common: natural, "Oksol" and composite. Natural impregnation consists of 97 percent natural oil, the remaining three percent is a desiccant (a substance that promotes rapid drying). Drying oil "Oksol" in its composition has only 55 percent oil (linseed or sunflower), forty percent white spirit and 5 percent desiccant. Such impregnation is cheaper than natural. Composite compositions are characterized by a pungent odor; they include petroleum polymer resins that serve as substitutes for natural resins, as well as other petrochemical products. This type of drying oil is the cheapest. Composite impregnations are not recommended for use in residential premises, even on balconies, because even after these compounds have dried, there is still a sharp characteristic smell.