How to sheathe a ladder made of metal with wood. Do-it-yourself leatherette door trim: the subtleties of the rear and front door trim. Structural sheathing material

Finishing a house with metal siding is usually used as a method roofing works. Meanwhile, the operational and design advantages of this material make it possible to use it as a universal facade cladding - reliable, beautiful and prefabricated.

Finishing a house with metal siding - the pros and cons of a comprehensive repair

The repair benefits of siding are due to its layered structure and modern technologies in the production of such cladding:

Ease. Square meter siding sheathing for the facade weighs about 1-1.5 kilograms, which means not only ease of installation. Many facade walls will not physically withstand facing with stone or other heavy panels - siding can significantly save on strengthening the wall base;
Strength and durability. Siding based on steel sheet, coated with zinc and polymers, has the strength of steel, it is very resistant to atmospheric adversity and accidental mechanical shock;
Wide choice of colors and textures. The collections of large companies include log-like metal siding, the installation of which is relevant for walls, roof and plinth panels, elements for precise matching, and high-quality fasteners. Metal siding makes it possible to clad the house from the roof ridge to the drainage ditch according to a single design plan. Other materials will have to be combined, separately selected, purchased, installed, etc.;
Efficiency and speed of repair procedures. Compared with natural wood or artificial stone siding is several times cheaper. It is permissible to install it on newly completed, so-called "fresh" walls, at any time of the year. The remains of the panels can be used as decorative inserts when interior decoration premises, so that there is almost no installation waste left;
The possibility of finishing walls with bizarre geometry. With a limited repair budget, there is often simply no other way to veneer complex surfaces;
Installation of metal siding is the installation of a ventilated facade. Internal mounting gaps can be easily insulated without additional investment, or combine this procedure with wall insulation from the inside. thus attractive appearance combined with the full thermal comfort of the whole house.

Of course, finishing the house with metal siding has its own characteristic "cons", but they are not numerous. Firstly, it is the need for a careful and time-consuming installation of the frame. Secondly, the need for a large number of auxiliary materials - from initial profiles to fixing fittings, cornices and corners. Thirdly, with a lack of experience common mistake is inaccurate (uneven) cutting of siding panels - as a result, they go to rejection, and new ones have to be used in place of the "tie-in".

With the development of installation skills for working with siding, all the above-mentioned shortcomings are more than offset by the repair and design advantages of durable metallized cladding.

Metal siding under a log - installation of imitation of massive wood

Sheets of metal siding have long been produced in the usual "flat" form. Relatively recently, three-dimensional structures have appeared that exactly repeat the structure of centuries-old log cabins - geometrically, in texture and in color. Such material is intended specifically for walls; there are no precedents for the use of logs for roofing even in ancient Russian architecture. A log roof finish would be even less appropriate today - but as a wall cladding, such a repair solution is distinguished by its versatility and practicality.

Durability of facade repair according to the principle "Once and for all!" achievable only with siding based on metal sheets. Plaster has a service life of 5-8 years, facing with natural / artificial stone - up to 15 years, metal siding with proper installation will last up to 25 years without the slightest decrease in aesthetic appeal and operational reliability.

How to sheathe a house with metal siding - installation instructions

Like most repair procedures using a frame, at least 90% of the quality of all installation work depends on the accuracy of its installation.

How to sheathe a house with metal siding - step by step diagram

Step 1: Settlement and preparation

It is necessary to measure all the walls (and the basement with the roof, if included in the facing plans). It is best to take measurements with scaffolding- so it will be possible to assess the strength of the wall base for metal siding. If the plaster from the wall crumbles in whole layers, if the masonry is loosened, and the beams are cracked, decorating a rotten house with siding will not help, just waste your money and effort.

For proper fastening reliability, the strength of the walls is necessary. If necessary, it is possible to shoot a grid on separate sections, followed by plaster cement mortar, replace individual bricks or beams. It is necessary to perform such installation preparation a few days before the installation of siding panels - the cement should "grab" well.

Step 2: Cleaning and Marking

The entire wall surface is swept with a broom, layers of mortar, peeling paint, remnants of the previous generation of putty, etc. are removed from it. All foreign objects (nails, platbands, other decorations, etc.) must be removed from the walls.

The basic fastener for wall siding is a branded bracket.

They are screwed in vertical rows, with a distance between each row of 50-70 cm and the same clearance. Long (at least 50 mm) self-tapping screws are used to fasten the brackets to the walls. Vertical marking lines must be applied strictly according to the level, drawing even grooves on the walls. As a result, the house will be "lined" with vertical stripes for future fasteners.

Step 3: Mount the frame

A huge advantage of branded brackets is reasonably considered to be their height adjustment (that is, the distance from the wall). After mounting the vertical rows of brackets, T-shaped strips are screwed to them. It is important to use metal T-bars, not wood! Savings on these fittings will lead to unreliability and a short service life of the entire cladding. Bolted (that is, collapsible) fasteners of metal frame slats are preferred.

The "T" shaped metal strips can be fitted to the brackets using the perforated mounting holes. However, the size of such an adjustment is small, it is only a few centimeters. The measurement of the frame is carried out with a long (up to 2 meters) and accurate level. If any part sticks out or is recessed, the brackets are reinstalled. Auxiliary planks are placed under them or a wall is hemmed. The main task is to achieve complete sheerness and parallelism of the T-shaped metal strips to each other.

Step 4: We complete the installation of the frame and perform wall insulation

After the precise installation of the T-shaped moldings, fastening strips are screwed to them under the siding itself using short self-tapping screws. It is important to maintain a constant dimension between the fastening strips, with an accuracy of a few millimeters. Otherwise, the configuration of the metal siding will shift, and the entire structure will soon deform.

Before sheathing a house with metal siding, it is necessary to determine the insulation and performance of wall insulation. Any type of thermal insulation is installed under the metal crate - from rolled polymer to the usual foam. It is important to leave a gap between the insulation and the back of the frame in order to maintain the internal ventilation of the facade.

Step 5: Finish Siding

With a high-quality and durable installation of the frame, the siding panels are installed quickly and easily. Work starts from the bottom up and leads to the very roof. It is convenient to cut metal siding with a sharp hacksaw for metal. The joining of individual strips is carried out using special joining strips or overlapping, the first option is more reliable in the long run.

Short self-tapping screws for facade fastening are assembled with rubberized washers - they seal the holes and take into account the thermal expansion of the metal. Given the large number of screws used (the installation step is from 12 to 18 cm), it is necessary to stock up on a screwdriver - manual installation of siding with an area of 10 m 2 or more will lead to blisters from a screwdriver on the most strained hands. Corners and joints are closed with decorative strips last, when the entire surface is already lined.

One of the most common options for finishing a metal staircase is wood cladding. And this is not surprising, because both materials are perfectly combined with each other. In addition, it is not so difficult to complete the entire list of works on your own.

Design features

Before sheathing metal staircase tree, it is important to familiarize yourself with the features of such a design. First of all, you need to highlight the following characteristics:

strength;
the ability to design models of any complexity;
the ability to combine with other materials.

Strength - main feature metal stairs

If you decide to sheathe the stairs with wood or MDF panels be sure to prepare the surface and treat the front finish with an antiseptic. Metal can also wear out over time, so it needs to be properly cleaned and preferably covered with a corrosion protection agent, especially for welds.

Metal stairs can be full-fledged and without front sheathing, however, much more often such structures contain only a frame of welded or bolted profiles, on which boards can be easily fixed in the future. Let's take a closer look at what is better to choose the material and in what sequence to carry out the work on the skin.

Selection of materials

To finish a metal staircase with a tree with your own hands, you can use various breeds wood. The best option are the following varieties:

larch,
maple,
wenge,
merbau,
alder,
nut.

If necessary, you can use wood stain to tint wood. In this case, you can purchase inexpensive light rock and turn it into a copy of expensive rare arrays through impregnation.

There are many options for sheathing a metal staircase. However, the tree always looks more profitable than other solutions. Due to the species diversity of rocks for decoration, a staircase trimmed with wood will fit into any interior. In addition, it is environmentally friendly. You can sheathe the step completely or just tread, which will save the budget. The very process of ennobling a metal staircase with the help of a tree is quite feasible with your own hands.

Material selection

Among the materials suitable for finishing can be called:

Oak. Perhaps the most durable and strong material. It has a noble texture and a choice of colors from pale yellow to red-brown.

If you chose oak for finishing, then it is worth considering that its color will darken over time.

Ash. The strength is not inferior to oak. The texture is pronounced, has a grayish tint.
Beech. It is most often used for finishing stairs. It has a uniform texture, which allows you to imitate mahogany with paint.
Exotic breeds: for example, teak, wenge, merbau. Such wood is most often chosen because of the variety of shades offered. But it is also worth noting their strength and durability.
Coniferous woods, such as spruce or fir, due to their low wear resistance, are suitable for decorating risers. Pine has good performance characteristics and low density, which makes it easy to process. In addition, it has a low cost.

The choice of material is influenced not only by preferences in quality or color scheme and texture, but also the requirements for wood:

Its humidity should not exceed 12 percent.
Surface cracks are not allowed.
Impregnation with an additional protective compound will increase the life of the material and prevent the formation of fungus. This should be done before the start of the main work, when the wood is being prepared.
Finishing wood processing involves coating it with a special varnish. The choice of color depends only on your desire. You can choose a clear varnish if the wood has a noble texture.

Sheathing options:

Partial. It involves the installation of wooden treads on a metal frame. But the rest of the structural elements are left unfinished.
Full. Provides full coverage metal frame and all elements. The result is a complete imitation of a wooden staircase.

Finishing work

The work will be done using the following tools:

screwdriver and self-tapping screws;
a hammer with a rubber head, designed for possible fixation;
woodcarving tools;
tesanka;
building level;
ruler and pencil on wood;

Part preparation

The first stage is the measurement of all elements of the staircase structure that are planned to be sheathed. This must be done carefully, excluding the possibility of cracks or too tight fastening. This can lead to deformations and cracks.
After that, the measurements taken are transferred to the wood.
According to the markup, the parts are cut.
If the steps have different shape, then it is worth numbering them so as not to confuse them during the assembly process.
When processing parts, it is worth rounding off the corners located on the front side a little. This will provide more comfortable operation, reducing the risk of possible damage to the tree and increasing safety.
After preparing the steps, they proceed to the processing of railings and balusters, if the design involves their sheathing. When sawing out the railing, first determine the length, then adjust the width and shape.

Stages of work

First you need to decide on the design of the stairs and the option that the frame will be sheathed with. In accordance with the requirements, it is necessary to choose the type of wood for sheathing.
After that, the preparation of the skin parts is carried out. Solid wood is adjusted to the size of the frame. If the work is simple, without any special decorative frills, then you can get by hand saw on wood and a large file.
Treads should be fastened in such a way that they have a small protrusion in front of up to one centimeter. This will not only give a nice look, but also allow you to make the most secure mount. Attach them from top to bottom. After installation, it is necessary to check each for strength, as well as how evenly they are fixed with a building level.
When installing risers, it is important to observe the following requirement: they must rest as tightly as possible on the metal frame. They are fixed in the same way, starting from the top, and after fastening they are checked for strength and evenness.
Provided that the full sheathing of the frame is carried out, the next step will be the choice of the balustrade. They not only perform a protective and supporting function, but are also an important decorative element staircase structure. Balustrades are installed in increments of 15-20 centimeters. If there are children in the house, this step should be reduced to 9-10 centimeters.
Next, we fix the prepared wood parts. Do it with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to drill holes in the frame in those places where the skin will be fastened. Using self-tapping screws, the wood cladding is attached to the metal frame. It is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw into the wood with a 5 mm deepening of the cap.
The fastening of the balusters is carried out to the treads with the help of self-tapping screws. Next, railings are laid on them.

You can also sheathe a metal frame. This is done with drywall, screws and wooden panels. Begin work with sheathing the side surface with wooden panels. Their sizes are selected in advance. Fastening is carried out with a screwdriver on self-tapping screws to the balusters. The lower marching part of the stairs is sheathed with drywall. Fix it on the side and lower parts of the steps.

It is not at all necessary to finish the metal frame if it has an outwardly attractive appearance. But such a finish option will be able to hide the existing shortcomings.

Coating wooden trim elements with varnish or paint is the final stage. You can also paint over the metal parts that remain in sight.

Video instruction for sheathing the metal frame of the stairs with wood

All photos from the article

Stairs in a residential building should be, above all, strong and comfortable. At all times, metal or concrete was considered the standard of reliability, but both of these materials, in the vast majority of cases, need cladding, and here wood is the best fit. A staircase on a metal frame sheathed with wood, as well as its concrete counterpart, radically change the design of the room, adding notes of home warmth and comfort.

Openwork forged metal constructions or steps finished natural marble, it is certainly beautiful and prestigious. But such stairs are considered perhaps the most traumatic. They are well suited for public buildings, a residential building involves the use of a safer and softer cladding, which is wood.

What tree to use

The first thing to start with before sheathing a staircase with wood is the choice of wood species. Natural array is not only beautiful and warm, but in the case of a metal base, it is also excellent sound insulation.

When the glue grabs, you can proceed with the installation of the stage itself. Everything is simple here, the board is laid on the substrate and is attracted from below with self-tapping screws.

In order for the self-tapping screws to enter easily, you need to pre-drill small diameter holes for them. The mounting technology of the risers exactly repeats the fastening of the steps.

Designers very widely use the method in which the combination of metal parts with wood is taken as the basis. This also applies to stairs. To make the structure durable, a metal frame is made, beauty and aesthetics are achieved by decorating surfaces with wooden elements. To answer the question of how to sheathe a metal staircase with wood, it is necessary to study the properties of the materials used for decoration, their specifications. It is necessary to understand why metal and wood have the best combination, how harmony is achieved.

The metal frame of the stairs is very reliable and durable, and wood paneling brings an aesthetic function.

Before sheathing a metal staircase, you first need to choose the appropriate design. There are several ways that answer the question: how to sheathe a metal staircase? You can decorate the frame of the stairs with a tree in different ways. You can make a staircase with steps, decorate with a railing trimmed with wood.

The nuances of universal designs

Natural wood has always created comfort and coziness in the house. We can safely say that wood is in harmony with any interior, however, the frame of a wooden staircase does not have great strength, it is short-lived. Much stronger and more durable will be the use of the metal frame of the stairs as a supporting structure. Such a ladder is able to withstand a lot of pressure, it can have a variety of shapes.

Metal stairs look very impressive, but if they do not have sheathing, they look unaesthetic. Moreover, sheathing helps to reduce injuries in residential buildings.

Upon closer examination and study facing materials the conclusion suggests itself: in order to sheath a metal frame, you need to use good wood.

The frame of the stairs is made mainly of light metals with high strength characteristics. To sheathe the treads, hardwood is used. Other parts that wear out much less are sheathed in inexpensive and less hard wood.

The cladding of the stairs is made partial when the steel frame is not completely closed. In most cases, full skin is made. The metal base, on which the wooden steps are held, is attached to special bowstrings.

What material to choose for sheathing?

To emphasize the natural beauty, choose an array of oak. Such a tree will be an excellent sound insulator, the staircase will become more attractive and original.

Different types of wood and the developed design entail certain monetary investments. A project can be very expensive, but the cost does not always affect the result.

The most popular varieties of tree species are:

Oak. Very durable and can serve long time. Has a wide range of colors. Over time, it begins to darken. This makes it more attractive and luxurious.
Beech. Elegant and sophisticated wood. It has a high density, very durable wood.
Hornbeam. After prolonged drying, its hardness exceeds the hardness of oak. This wood is also called white beech. Such a tree can be poisoned, it is quite easy to process.
Ash. The characteristics of wood are similar to those of oak. It has high strength and wear resistance.
Teak. Differs in the high durability, beautiful color shades.
Coniferous trees are used for sheathing risers, stair railing parts, that is, in places where high strength and wear resistance are not needed. Such wood includes pine, cedar, etc.

I must say that the wood must have excellent drying. The humidity level should not exceed 12%. If this indicator is higher, then the tree can "lead". There should be no cracks on the wood. Each wooden element must be impregnated with an antiseptic so that the process of decay does not begin.

To work, you will need the following tool:

screwdriver;
screws;
rubber mallet;
carpentry tools designed for threading on wooden surfaces;
plane;
level;
ruler;
pencil;
studs to fasten balusters.

Work performance technology

To make the sheathing of a metal staircase, you need to know certain rules and procedures for the production of facing works. First of all, you need to define:

ladder system;
type of wood;
design;
railing material.

Then it is necessary to measure the frame in the places where the steps are attached, to determine the dimensions of the risers. In some cases, they may differ slightly from the dimensions of the frame made. According to the measurements made, a sheet of plywood is taken, a substrate is cut out, which is placed under the treads. With the help of plywood, a slight slope of the metal frame is eliminated. After that, the details of the steps are made. To make it more convenient to fix the risers, the masters advise making the treads a little wider than the metal frame.

The plywood substrate is fastened with mounting glue. Treads are pre-installed, fixing them on both sides, then the risers are screwed to the frame parts. The heads of the self-tapping screws need to be hidden, they are covered with mastic or covered with special furniture plugs.

The next step is to install the stair railing. It is attached to the treads or, if the width allows, to the end of the march.

The next operation will be fixing the metal frame and wooden parts. For this purpose, a screwdriver is used. Pre-marking is done on those parts where the fastening will be performed. To do this, you need to put the part on a specific section of the metal staircase, make marks with an ordinary soft pencil. Each step must necessarily be equal to a specific part of the stairs.

Mounting begins with steps. They need to be fixed so that they protrude slightly forward, about 1 cm. This will look very nice, create maximum security. Work with a screwdriver should start from the top, slowly moving down. When the last step is screwed, you need to check the structure for strength. How evenly the steps are set will determine the plumb line.

Steps with wooden elements that protrude slightly beyond the metal surface look very nice.

For overlays, it is desirable to use hardwoods.

To avoid chipped skin, you need to make chamfers over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wooden panels, all corners should be round.

Balusters must be installed at the edges of the steps along the entire length of the stairs. When the level shows absolute verticality, the balusters are fixed with special pins. Then the railings are attached.

When ladder structures are made, metal and wood can be combined. For metal parts, even scrap metal is suitable. You will only need to choose the most suitable option so that it fully meets the functional, aesthetic and financial possibilities.