Balsam pinching as correct. How to care for a balsam flower - planting, lighting, watering and treating diseases. Seedling cultivation

He is the "patriarch" of all indoor floriculture. In the philistine environment of the XIX - early XX centuries, homemade balsam was an indispensable attribute of the interior. This houseplant is so simple and unsophisticated that the people gave it their own, more appropriate names: “ Roly wet», « Vanka-vstanka", For beautiful, bright flowers, it is also called" star».

A little about the plant

The genus to which indoor balsam belongs is called Impatiens, and if translated from Latin, it will turn out " Impatient". Where exactly is this name from? And everything is very simple - when the flower fades and the seed box ripens, then the lightest touch is enough for the box to suddenly open and “shoot” with seeds. For this ability of his, the people slightly modified the generic name, calling it - " touchy". The Balsam family is quite extensive. It is difficult to name the exact number of species, but they are counted according to different sources from 400 to 500. Not all of them are tamed by flower growers of our latitudes. But those that have been domesticated grow both in flower beds and as a houseplant. Garden, street balsam is an annual that is planted every year. Balsam room at home can live longer. The oldest of the types of balsam grown by flower growers is " Waller's balsam”, which was grown in the century before last. Now there are much more of them. But caring for homemade balsam is exactly the same, regardless of the type. And most importantly, it is very simple.

How to care for indoor balsam at home

Lighting

For home balsam, light partial shade is more preferable than bright lighting. In such a place, he will not only feel more comfortable, but as personal observations show, the flowers will be brighter and more saturated. Balsam will bloom better on a northern window sill than most traditional ones. indoor plants- East and West.

Temperature

Spring, summer and early autumn, special temperature conditions for indoor balsam you do not need to create. The only thing he does not like is sudden changes in temperature. But for the summer, take the balsam into the fresh air, this will be the best place for it. Be sure to keep in mind that the plant is fragile. Choose a place for him so that the balsam is protected from wind and rain, which can damage it. Very often, some species of this flower are used in outdoor potted compositions next to geraniums, and other plants, both indoor and garden.

Balsam should winter in conditions of low temperature: from +12 to +16 degrees. If you do not have it on the windowsill, then put it there for the winter. There is exactly this (or close to it) temperature.

Watering and humidity

Indoor balsam is considered a very moisture-loving flower. The way it is. Fans of daily watering, on balsam can take their souls away. But only in the summer, when it needs to be watered almost daily. Reduce watering in winter. Too wet soil, combined with low temperatures, can cause rotting of the roots and trunk. But it is impossible to completely stop them during this period. Winter for home balsam is not a dormant period, but rather a respite (not at all a floricultural term ...). It continues to grow during this period.

Daily spraying in the summer is also a very desirable event. Wet air goes balsam for the benefit. At the same time, regular and frequent spraying will not allow the main enemy and pest to settle on it -.

top dressing

Feeding indoor balsam is a must if you want to get a beautiful plant and flowering. But you should not get too carried away with fertilizers. When overfeeding a plant, you can get the opposite effect. Balsam will give few flowers. Feed him throughout the year. BUT. From spring to autumn, when the balsam has a period of active development, feed it no more than three times a month with fertilizers for flowering plants, and in winter, give potash-phosphorus fertilizers once a month. Gives good results in summer. That is, give balsam nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, alternating them. Nitrogen stimulates the development of green mass, and phosphorus - flowering.

Transfer

In most cases, balsam is not particularly needed. Already in the third year, the plant becomes ugly, unattractive. Therefore, most often it is kept for two years, after which a new one is grown. Balsam, which is part of the compositions, is completely updated annually. But while the plant is still healthy and has not lost its decorative qualities, in the spring it must be transplanted into fresh soil and a pot. for balsam is not particularly important. You should not make it very nutritious, otherwise you can end up with beautiful green leaves, but poor flowering. For the preparation of such land, the following composition is often recommended: two parts of humus, sod land, leaf (or garden) soil, sand and one part of peat are mixed . You can, of course, try hard and make such a mixture, but from personal experience I note that in a regular mixture two parts of leaf (garden) earth and one part of sand, balsam grows no worse.

As for the utensils for transplanting, when choosing it, it is necessary, first of all, to be guided by the size of the root system of the plant. If the pot is too spacious, then until the roots cover the entire lump, the balsam will not bloom. For greater beauty, you can plant a few balsams in a slightly larger pot. The tightness will only benefit them.

reproduction

Indoor balsam can be propagated both by seeds and cuttings, in this it differs from its garden relative, which is propagated only by seeds. But having a mother plant in the house, it is not advisable to propagate balsam with seeds. First, it is a more labor intensive process. Actually - . And secondly, this method does not guarantee that exactly such a flower will grow as the one from which the seeds were taken. Moreover, changes are usually for the worse. Therefore, I recommend propagation of balsam by cuttings for beginner flower growers. This is a very simple procedure.

WITH mother plant take a cutting that has at least 3 knots on it. It is approximately 5-7 centimeters long.
Remove the bottom leaves.
Place the cutting in a container of water.

It remains to wait for the roots to appear and plant the stalk in the ground. That's it - simple and clear.

But if you don’t want to fool your head with growing roots, then the stalk can be planted immediately in an earthen mixture. But it should be light, based on peat. For example: on one part of peat, part and two parts or sand . With equal success, you can root a stalk of balsam in wet sand or perlite. After you see that the plant is strong and started to grow, you can transplant it into a permanent pot and a normal earth mixture.

Pinching

For branching, and, accordingly, more abundant flowering, it is necessary to pinch indoor balsam. Pinching both the central trunk and side shoots. In the process of flowering, immediately remove faded flowers and withered leaves. This will not only make the bush neater and cleaner, but also stimulate further flowering.

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The plant may be herbaceous or semi-shrub. Initially, balsam grew in the tropics, the alleged birthplace of this flower is the island of Zanzibar. In Europe, the flower appeared at the end of the sixteenth century, where cultivars of balsam were bred.

With proper care, balsam blooms almost all year round. The flowers of the plant are large and bright, most often red, but pink, yellow, orange, white, and burgundy are also found. There are varieties with two-tone flowers, that is, a contrasting "eye" in the center of the flower. The leaves are usually dark green, sometimes burgundy or variegated.

Advice! The plant is moisture-loving, requires regular frequent watering, especially in the warm season. In summer, scorching sunlight should not be allowed to fall on the balsam; it is necessary to shade the plant. In winter, it is not recommended to strongly moisten the soil in order to avoid hypothermia. Drafts are also detrimental to the flower.

Balsam does not need to create additional conditions, this flower feels great at the temperature and humidity of an ordinary living space.

Look at the photo of what balsam looks like:

Planting seeds and cuttings

Balsam is planted in two ways:

.
Considered over in a simple way planting and is recommended for beginner gardeners who want to maintain the quality of the variety. For planting, cuttings obtained after spring pruning of the plant are used. The cut shoot is placed in water until the roots appear, this happens after about 2 weeks.
After that, the sprout is planted in sand or a substrate prepared from a mixture of peat and perlite in a ratio of 2:1. When the flower gets stronger, it is transplanted into a larger container with ordinary soil for adult plants.
.
It is used by experienced gardeners and, as a rule, for growing horticultural varieties. However, it can also be used for indoor plants. It is important to remember that balsam grown from seeds may not have the characteristics of the selected variety. For planting, seeds are placed on the surface of the substrate.
It is allowed to slightly deepen the seed, but it is undesirable to sprinkle on top. After that, the container is covered with a film or a glass cap. After about 10 days, sprouts appear with two leaves. This means that the seedlings can be transplanted into separate pots.

You will learn all the details of plant propagation by cuttings and seeds by reading.

It is necessary to replant balsam in order to replace the old depleted soil with a new and nutritious one, and also to provide extra bed for root growth.

Wherein it is important to remember that some tightness is even beneficial for this flower, because balsam blooms only after the root system fills the space of the pot. If the capacity is too large, all the strength and nutrients of the balsam will go to the development of the roots, and not to flowering.

Transplantation is carried out once a year - in spring, or twice a year - in spring and autumn, depending on the intensity of flower growth. It is also necessary to transplant a plant bought in a store 2 weeks after purchase - this is the time the plant needs in order to adapt to new conditions. Read about the intricacies of balsam transplantation and subsequent care for it.

Required soil

This flower requires loose soil with a low acidity index. Excess nutrients in the ground is not desirable, because it will lead to the growth of green mass and weak flowering. In a specialized store, you can buy an earthen mixture for flowering plants, or prepare the soil yourself:

The first option for homemade soil is a mixture of leafy soil, turf, humus, sand and peat in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 2: 1.
A mixture of leafy soil with peat and river sand (2:1:1) is also used. It is important to remember that all components taken from the street must be disinfected.

Reference! Despite the fact that balsam is very moisture-loving, a thin layer of drainage in a pot is still very desirable. They can serve as medium-sized pebbles or pebbles, laid in a layer of no more than 2-3 cm.

How to properly care?

For balsam, it is extremely important to get enough moisture. In summer, the flower needs abundant watering, daily or every other day, depending on how quickly it dries. upper layer soil in a pot. In no case should the soil be allowed to dry out.

In winter, watering is reduced, especially if the plant is in a cool room. Usually, in the cold season, 2 waterings per week are enough for balsam.

Can it be sprayed with water?

Spraying can be carried out if the air in the room is warm and dry. In addition to additional hydration, this procedure serves as a prevention against the appearance of spider mites. Spray balsam should be every 2-3 days.

After spraying, it is necessary to hold the plant in the shade, because bright Sun rays can burn wet leaves.

It is also important to avoid drafts to avoid hypothermia. For the same reason, it is not recommended to spray balsam in winter.

top dressing

During flowering, balsam requires top dressing. Fertilizer should be applied every 10 days from the beginning of spring to autumn, until the plant has a dormant period, alternating nitrogen and phosphorus top dressing. Among organic fertilizers, the main source of nitrogen is bone meal, phosphorus - wormwood compost.

Nitrogen is necessary for balsam for the successful development of green mass, and phosphorus contributes to high-quality flowering. Read about how to properly water and how to feed a plant for abundant flowering.

How to pinch?

To improve flowering and the formation of a neat bush, in the spring it is necessary to pinch the balsam, that is, remove the upper part of the shoot.

Together with pinching, damaged leaves and wilted flowers are usually removed. Thanks to this, the flower retains a neat appearance, and the risk of certain diseases and pests is also reduced.

Important to remember: for dwarf varieties of balsam, pinching is not required.

pruning

How to prune a plant and when should it be done? Pruning is carried out in March, while young shoots of balsam are cut off, which can be used to propagate the flower. During pruning and pinching, it is required to increase watering so that the plant can more easily endure painful procedures.

In order for the flower to develop well and actively bloom in the warm season, in winter it is necessary to provide it with a dormant period. This will help the plant to rest and gain strength by spring. Receiving less sunlight, balsam can shed its leaves. Subject to proper care, such a phenomenon is not a cause for concern.

Lowering the temperature in winter is a desirable, but not a prerequisite for balsam. If the plant is placed in cooler conditions for the wintering period, then you need to remember that the indicator should not be lower than +16 degrees. Watering is gradually reduced from daily to once every 3-4 days.

The accumulation of water in the pan is not allowed. Fertilizers are completely excluded or applied no more than once a month. Top dressing from nitrogen and phosphorus should be replaced with potassium-phosphorus.

We wrote in more detail about growing and caring for balsam at home.

Possible problems

When growing indoor balsam, you may encounter the following problems:

The plant does not bloom, in most cases, due to adverse factors. Usually flowering does not occur if the balsam is planted in too large a pot, does not receive enough water, or due to excess nitrogen that it receives with fertilizers.
Yellowing of the leaves is a signal of a lack of moisture in the soil. In addition, the leaves may turn yellow as a result of a burn if the flower is located in direct sunlight. In winter, this sign indicates hypothermia of the balsam.

Diseases and pests

Like many other indoor plants, balsam is susceptible to pest attack and appearance. The most common for this flower are the following:

whitefly- an insect dangerous for balsam that appears in a dry, humid room that does not get fresh air.
Important! For prevention, regular spraying and airing of the room with flowers are necessary. To get rid of whiteflies that have already appeared, use insect tape.
spider mite- feeds on the juice of balsam leaves, because of which the leaf withers and curls. It appears, like the whitefly, under the wrong conditions for keeping the flower. Maintaining humidity and good ventilation will help prevent the appearance of such a pest.
Soil mold- Occurs when there is too much moisture. Despite the fact that balsam belongs to moisture-loving plants, it is important to ensure that the soil does not turn sour. If the upper part of the soil is still covered with mold, it is necessary to remove the affected layer of earth and fill in a new one.

Useful video

Watch a video about caring for balsam:

Conclusion

Balsam is ideal for beginner gardeners, because caring for this plant does not require much effort. At the same time, an unpretentious bright flower will become a wonderful decoration for a house or apartment.

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Not everyone has the opportunity, and desire, to grow garden balsam seedling way on the windowsill. You can, of course, sow the seeds immediately into the ground, but in this case flowering will come much later, but much less maintenance of the balsam will be required.
When picking, deepen them to the cotyledon leaves, sometimes the plants even have to be twisted slightly.

After the emergence of seedlings, do not rush to remove the film, let the seedlings get a little stronger. But it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings every day several times. When the rastyukhi are slightly stretched, add a little earth to cover the bare roots.

There are two ways to grow this plant from seeds:

It’s good to plant in tablets later, when they germinate well, then into a glass, when the glass fills with roots, then it’s already in a pot and don’t forget to pinch the tops for bushiness. and what you plucked off you can immediately cut off into a tablet.

They love moisture very much, but it should not be allowed to stagnate in the soil, otherwise the plants will not get enough air and may rot. Grow seedlings for a couple more months, and when it gets warmer, plant them in open ground and wait for flowering.

As seedlings grow, they need additional feeding. Soluble fertilizers with a complete set of nutrition are diluted in small doses and fed with balsams. Seedlings are planted in the garden when the threat of freezing from spring cold snaps and frosts has passed.

Balsams are classified as unpretentious flowers in cultivation. But the seeds of this colorful culture require "respectful" treatment.
For this purpose, it is better to use cuttings of balsam, it takes root perfectly.

KakProsto.ru

Watering.  The plant is quite whimsical, so seeds are sown in greenhouses only in early May. If there is no shelter, then sowing is best done in late May or even early June. The dive was successful. Gradually accustom the seedlings to fresh air and eventually remove the film completely. Keep an eye on the humidity, the soil should always be wet, but not flooded.

Instruction

When to start landing?
Growing through seedlings. For primary growth, you need to grow in small containers and only then plant them in a pot. Then it comes out beautiful and lush. You probably have garden balsam. It's okay that the seedlings stretched out - you can deepen the cotyledons.
Balsams
Sowing seeds and caring for seedlings This flower is surprisingly easy to cut, and flower growers use this ability to preserve their favorite varieties in winter. To do this, cut off a few shoots in the fall and put them in water or immediately stick them into a pot with soil for cuttings. Cuttings root equally well in water and in the ground. Do not forget to water, but water sparingly. An excess of moisture can cause root rot.

KakProsto.ru

Do you plant balsam for seedlings? Are there any difficulties?

ღ M@rin@ ღ

The plant tolerates a pick well, but still hold the cups in the shade for several days, do not expose them immediately to the sun.

Polina Shubina

Grown seedlings need to be sprinkled.

lyudmila regional

From seed germination to flowering, an average of three months pass. Considering that the balsam is planted in the OG at the end of May or the beginning of June (in different regions in different ways), it is best to start planting in early or mid-March.

Lelya Casanova

Sowing seeds in open ground.

Natalia Solovieva

Balsams grow very quickly, stretch out. Probably best to sow them in April. Then, in the flower garden, you will need to pick off the leaves, otherwise the beauty of the flowers will not be visible.
Here in the garden they will grow "giraffes" - the plant is quite tall. I prefer Valler's balsam (roly wet). Now there are so many interesting varieties and colors. It is perfectly preserved at home in the winter - by spring, you can draw a bush you like and plant it in a street planter.

Larisa

- very beautiful, but capricious flowers. They are even called "touchy" due to the fact that with a light touch on the ripened seed pods, they burst and scatter tiny seeds far away. Therefore, most often balsams are propagated by cuttings. But if you have the patience, you can try growing them from

Valentina Barzakovskaya

To sow seeds, you need to buy ready-made soil or prepare it yourself. It should be loose, moisture-absorbing and have a neutral reaction (pH 6.2 ... 6.5). When the soil is acidified, the seedlings will "lie down."

Tina Ezdakova

Rooting cuttings in water.

Elena the Wise

Take a closer look at your plants, they themselves give signals if they don’t like how you care for them:

I want to sow balsams today. Do you need them through seedlings or immediately in a flower pot?

Victoria Chaikovskaya

Where to plant.

Natalia Sludnikova

maria_johansson

If you really want to see flowering already in early May or you grow seedlings of flowers for sale, then you need to start sowing at the end of January.
This flower is thermophilic, afraid of frost, so it is most often grown through seedlings. Some flower growers consider balsam to be a capricious plant that is difficult to grow at home. Others claim that it is a flower, like a flower, and they do not have any problems with it. So what is the reason for the failures when growing impatiens from seeds?

Olesya

I only grew the first ones from seeds, and now, in order to mess less, I leave 2 plants in the house for the winter and propagate in the spring.

Galina

Do you mean balsam balsam (garden)? It can be sown in the ground, and if you want earlier flowering, grow seedlings in a panic. And giraffes can be deepened and now you need to add light

Polina Shubina

seed

Nina Ablalimova

Before sowing the seeds, the soil must be disinfected. You can apply a solution of potassium permanganate, phytosporin, maxim. Small seedlings of balsam are very sensitive to fungal infections (black leg).

For propagation, it is not necessary to take large cuttings, cut into 6 - 8 cm. Remove the lower leaves and put them in water. To keep the cuttings in an environment with high humidity, place everything in a plastic bag and leave it like that for a week or two. When the roots appear, transplant the seedlings into pots with earth and put them on the windowsill.

Leaves drooped - it means too hot and not enough moisture.

This sissy does not like drafts, does not like heat, does not like when there is too much of something (water, fertilizers). He needs to be quiet, warm and comfortable. It will be good to grow in a place protected from the wind, so that the sun shines on it for several hours a day, but only in the morning or in the evening. Feels great in near-stem circles of trees, near the wall of a house or a fence (but not on the south side).

Growing garden balsam from seeds.

Pinching balsam

Temperature for growing seedlings.
But you will have to take much more care of early seedlings. Balsam seedlings are prone to stretching, so you can’t do without lighting + maintenance optimal temperature. When landing in the garden in May, it is necessary to prepare a shelter in case of night frosts. So, from the beginning, think carefully about whether you need such additional chores.

As always, failures lie in wait for beginners on initial stage cultivation. If your seedlings have survived to the pick, you can assume that the most difficult is behind and there should be no further problems.

Seedling cultivation

If you want to sow now, then you need to highlight. Like all seeds, I sow in well-cultivated soil (I calcine in the oven from insects, mold, bacteria), after sowing I cover it with a film, and when green muzzles appear, I open the film and maintain high humidity.

I bought balsam seeds. On the package it is written: Balsam terry Moth. I hoped that he was gardening, but he turned out to be with small seeds. It rises for a long time. I don’t know what will grow yet. It is written that for flower beds and a border.

Seeds are laid out on the surface of a medium-moist soil mixture and not sprinkled, only pressed to the surface. From above, the crops are covered with glass (film) so that the seeds do not dry out. They quickly sprout, after a week, if the temperature in the room is about 22 ... 24 ° C. At a lower temperature, 18 ... 20 ° C, seedlings will appear in a few weeks. Rooted cutting. Leaves turn yellow and fall - cold, excess moisture, check for pests.

Vanka is wet in the garden.

. After picking, young plants begin to grow rapidly, but unfortunately they begin to stretch again just as quickly. At this time, they need to pinch the tops. As a result, we restrain the stretching and side shoots are formed, and a bushy, flowering ball is always better than a lonely, long shoot. Therefore, always pinch the shoots of balsams, form a bush.

To create favorable conditions for growing seedlings, the temperature must be maintained within the following limits: Seeds germinate in the light. The thing is that young seedlings are easily affected by fungal infections, such as gray rot. It is this disease that usually causes the death of balsam seedlings. In order to exclude the possibility of infection, it is necessary with all responsibility to approach the choice of soil in which the seeds will be germinated. Namely, recommendations related to the quality of the soil are most often ignored and considered a trifle that does not deserve attention (the earth - it is the earth).

In that year, she planted a camellia variety, seedlings are growing rapidly, but it is impossible to plant early in the ground, for permanent residence she planted near the bathhouse with a wall 70 cm high, I had to shade during transplantation, so this year I will sow in a vparnik in mid-May.

In the garden, they will get stronger there, you can pinch. You will plant, shade, everything will be in order.

Clean and carefully assemble planting material- very small brown-brown balls. Usually the seeds ripen 20-30 days after the start of flowering, the boxes turn white at this time. Be careful - one awkward touch, and the seeds will "shoot" two meters, scattering in different directions, it will be unrealistic to collect them after that. But, if everything went well, you can store the grains for up to 8 years - it is during this period that the balsam seeds are viable and can sprout.

After the emergence of seedlings, the temperature in the room should not be lower than 18 ° C. Otherwise, if there is excess moisture in the soil (overflow), then the roots of the seedlings rot, the cotyledon leaves turn yellow. You can not water the "kids" in the afternoon. It is better to organize watering in the morning so that the soil has time to dry out by night. Balsams do not forgive the drying of the soil. If the tick is still small, then one treatment should be enough, but if it has already managed to breed, then you have to poison it according to the following scheme: phytoverm - aktara - phytoverm with weekly breaks. The bases of the stems rot - excess moisture, low temperature, lack of lighting.

When seeds germinate 22 - 24 degrees

Another reason for failures is poor-quality, expired seeds. It must be admitted that imported seeds often turn out to be better than domestic ones.

Balsam is of different types, tall and short. I grow undersized. terry. The first time I sowed seeds, now I take one flower home and cut it in the spring. Cuttings are excellent. I plant it in the ground when the threat of frost has passed in a flowerpot or flower bed.

My balsamins are also drawn out, I don’t even know why. There are a lot of seedlings of flowers on the window, a lot of sun, heat too. They stretch anyway. Sowing should be done in March so that the seedlings are ready by mid-June - at this time, balsams, which love warmth, will feel comfortable in the open field. Make or buy a peat-based substrate that is not very acidic. Ordinary garden soil will not work. Bacteria can grow in it. For the same reason, do not add manure to the soil, even if it is well rotted. Illumination is one of necessary conditions in obtaining strong seedlings, especially in the first 2-3 weeks. When shading, the seedlings stretch out and long internodes grow.

Rooted plants.
Few or no buds form - prolonged drought.

Growing in flowerpots, planters. Tick on balsam. After picking 18 - 20 degrees

And what kind of balsams do you have: if balsam is balsam - it's too early to sow, if Waller - sow, the seeds are small, it's better to sow superficially or sprinkle quite a bit.

When I dive, I try to deepen the cotyledons. Then everything is OK.

Balsams Seedlings of balsams begin to be fed when 2-3 true leaves appear. Fertilizers are better to use nitrogen-potassium (potassium nitrate), nitrogen-calcium (calcium nitrate) in low concentration. At the beginning of infancy, phosphorus fertilizer can not be used. In February - March, you can do cuttings again. Why is this needed? In most cases, the shoots of balsam during the winter are strongly drawn out and by spring the plant has a completely non-decorative appearance. And here there are two ways left, either a very short pruning, or re-cutting. If you choose the second, then by June you will have neat, pretty bushes.

The leaves are pale, the stems are stretched - not enough nutrients in the soil, lack of lighting. This plant, like no other, is adapted for growing in hanging baskets and flowerpots. Its root system easily puts up with cramped pots and lack of soil. The main thing is that the soil is fertile and always moist, for this it is necessary to add hydrogel to it. Caring for balsam in flowerpots is even easier than petunia. While the seedlings are in the house, inspect it from time to time to see if a tick has appeared on the leaves. Spider mites simply adore balsam and appear almost always. As soon as this pest is found, immediately treat all the seedlings with Fitoverm

Before sowing, level the soil in the container, moisten and spread the seeds evenly. They germinate in the light, so you don’t need to sprinkle them, just press them lightly to the ground. Anyone who has had to grow petunias from seeds knows how to do it. Spray your crops with dewdrops, place the container in a plastic bag and place it in a bright, warm area. Seedlings appear after 5 - 15 days What should be the soil?

Planting balsam seeds in the ground

I bought several varieties of balsams. Most sowing in April. There are separate varieties where the sowing is written February-March (golden jungle balsam)

I have, rather, not an answer to your question, but advice. I do not sow balsams, I believe that there is an easier way. At one time I grew several plants, and now they are cuttings every year in the spring. And before landing on a flower bed, I root it in water. This year, suffer, grow mother plants, and in the next years just cut them. Seedlings in apartment conditions are always a headache. I also do with coleus and everblooming begonias.

How to care for balsam in the garden

- very delicate plants. seedling care After the flowers have faded, a seed box remains on the peduncle, in which the seeds are located. At first, it is green, which means that the seeds have not yet matured and cannot be collected. We must wait until the seed box turns white and only then start collecting seeds.

Stopping flowering, flying around flowers - a sharp cold snap, transplanting into an oversized pot, severe drying of the soil.

  Picking seedlings.

Put the container in the bag. The simplest and perhaps the most correct way out is to buy peat-based soil in the store and add perlite or vermiculite there. If you still decide to prepare the soil mixture yourself, then in no case do not add either compost or humus there. Take ordinary garden soil, mix it with sand and be sure to sterilize.In its beauty, balsam (it is also called Vanka is wet and touchy) can compete with many garden flowers. You can grow it in a room in pots, in hanging planters and flowerpots on the street and just in the beds. Gardeners practice growing garden balsam both through seedlings and by sowing seeds in open ground. As you can see, this plant is beautiful, versatile and not at all difficult to care for.

If garden balsam (not wet Vanka) grows already in the garden, think about a garter. It has a very thick trunk, but it is so juicy and lively and thick that it easily breaks right under the root from the wind. Sift the soil and place it in disinfected containers, moisten it with a spray bottle, level the surface and lightly tamp. Pour the seeds on top and sprinkle them with river sand, if it is not there, with the same substrate. Cover the containers with glass or transparent polyethylene, put in a bright and warm place (the temperature should be at least + 18 ° C). After 5-10 days, shoots will appear, now the film or glass must be removed and the sprouts should be watered regularly. For better growth, they can be illuminated with a fluorescent lamp, increasing daylight hours for balsams. Compact seedlings are the golden mean in the rules for growing balsams. Namely, maintaining moderate soil moisture, temperature content without sharp fluctuations. Watering only after drying the top layer of the earth. You can not carelessly treat watering and allow the soil to dry completely. This leads to yellowing and wilting of seedlings. Such seedlings may not recover.

Everything would be fine, but when touched, these boxes immediately crack and the seeds scatter almost two meters. You have to work with great care, or first put some kind of small bag on the box and only then tear it off. With this method, although the seeds are shot, they do not scatter anywhere, but remain in the bag.

Caring for garden balsam.
Feeding.
Landing in open ground
Approximately three to four weeks after germination, when the seedlings become cramped in the container, they need to be dived into a larger dish. Too large containers are not required for this, small plastic cups will do just fine.
It is convenient to grow balsam in peat tablets.

It looks like a garden balsam.

Fragrant with aromas and variegated bright colors garden flower bed It's not as costly as it might seem.

For example, balsams, striking in a variety of colors, which can decorate even the most sophisticated flower bed, are easy to grow from seeds at home.

You will get double savings, because you do not have to spend money on seedlings, in addition, you can collect seeds from the resulting plants for sowing next year.

Let's talk today about the garden balsam type Carmelita, Camellia, namely, the cultivation of seedlings for subsequent transplantation into a flower garden.

Balsam - a plant with a flexible character

This inhabitant of flower beds and flower beds is so charming in its shy beauty that it never ceases to attract the attention of breeders. The result of the painstaking work of scientists was the creation of more than 500 species and subspecies of the multi-colored balsam family.

Despite the apparent capriciousness, balsams are quite unpretentious. A vernacular name- "touchy" - they acquired because of the special method of reproduction: with the most fleeting touch on a mature seed box, a whole volley of mature seeds immediately "shoots" out of it.

To make the seedlings of the handsome balsam at home healthy and viable, you need to know something about the "character" of this amazing plant.

So, for normal growth, seedlings need a lot of light and heat.
In the same way as many herbaceous plants, they cannot stand the overdrying of an earthy coma.
On early stages the insidious “black leg” may lie in wait for their cultivation, but in general, balsam bushes do not cause much trouble.

To achieve the desired result, we first need to decide what exactly we want to get in the end. For growing in a flower bed "in company" with other inhabitants of a lushly flowering garden, such balsam species as the mentioned Carmelita or Camellia are perfect.

They differ from their indoor relatives in the strongly narrowed shape of the leaves, under and between which flowers of the most festive shades of stunning beauty are hidden.

cultivation garden balsam from seeds begins with the selection of this very seed. Germination balsam grains-peas retain up to 8 years, depending on the species and varietal characteristics.

Taking into account the fact that the seeds give the first sprouts after 7-10 days, you should not rush too much with their sowing.

For a region in which spring comes more or less according to the calendar, this is January and early February. Such early sowing makes it possible by the third decade of April to get healthy and ready-to-plant seedlings.

If the heat usually comes late, you can sow the seeds in early March.

For seedlings to be viable:

Seeds before sowing should be kept for at least a quarter of an hour in a weak warm solution of potassium permanganate;
The best soil mixture for seedlings is store-bought for flowering plants or prepared independently from sand and peat in a 1: 1 ratio;
Before sowing, it is advisable to disinfect the earth mixture with a fungicide against the "black leg" and other fungal infections;
It is better to sow in small plastic containers up to 7 cm in diameter - it will be easier to take care of the seedlings and take them out for picking;
When sowing, it is necessary to deepen the seeds too much - by a maximum of 0.5 mm, or even better, just spread them out on a damp soil surface and sprinkle them with the same earthen mixture or sand (layer no more than 3 mm);
If containers with seeds are covered with glass or a transparent film, we get a greenhouse effect. It is advisable not to forget to ventilate them, removing the shelter daily for 20 minutes, and maintain the temperature inside the mini-greenhouses at the level of 18-20 ° C, we will soon get friendly shoots, after which the temperature should be raised by 2-3 degrees. Seedlings must be additionally illuminated before picking.

Another way to grow seedlings of a handsome balsam without much hassle is to germinate the seeds in advance. To do this, you need a small piece of fabric that absorbs water well. It needs to be slightly moistened, “sowed” seeds on it and carefully wrapped. The fabric should be placed in heat and not allowed to dry out. We carefully plant the hatched grains into the ground, as in the first case.

The second method of growing is good because it significantly speeds up the production of seedlings.

Such a nuisance can happen if the seeds are planted in the ground ahead of schedule. When the room with balsam shoots is too warm with a lack of lighting, the result will be just as sad.

The best way to get healthy proportional seedlings is hardening at a temperature of 15-18 ° C and artificial extension of the day with the help of fluorescent lamps.

It is quite easy to turn unreasonably long and fragile young plants into strong, well-developed seedlings and thereby correct an unfortunate mistake in their cultivation. So, if the balsam seedlings are very stretched out, it is desirable:

It is urgent to pick it up - when transplanting, the plants will spend their energy on building up the root mass and for a while will “forget” about growth;
When planting in separate small containers, you need to deepen the seedlings a little more than usual. At the same time, very long stems can be slightly bent in the form of a ring in the planting pits and sprinkled with a substrate - they will form additional roots, which will significantly increase their nutrition;
Pinch off the topmost leaf of each plant, so that they will begin to bush;
Treat overgrown seedlings with "Athlete" - a drug that inhibits stretching.

When 3-4 full-fledged leaves are formed on each green sprout, it will be possible to start picking, that is, seating in separate cups with a capacity of 200 ml - such a vessel will be quite enough for a young plant.

Before picking, the main thing is not to forget to water the sprouts well so that you can easily separate their thin, thread-like roots.

The soil for flowering plants is perfect for this procedure. You can also use a mixture of sand and peat, in which we sowed the seeds.

Having planted the seedlings, we shed the earth, place them closer to the light and do not forget to control the temperature. During this period, it should not rise above 20 degrees Celsius.

Planting balsam in open ground

After making sure that frosts are no longer expected, we proceed to the "relocation" of the strengthened and grown plants to permanent place- on a flower bed or in a discount.

In order for the balsam to please the eye with lush flowering, planting must be carried out in accordance with all the rules of gardening.

It is important not to make a mistake with the place: in too bright sun, our handsome man will simply wither, and with a lack of sunlight, you can not wait for flowering, especially with high humidity.

In general, balsams are not too demanding: planting and care are almost standard for most garden inhabitants:

lace penumbra,
constant soil moisture (no overflow),
air temperature during the formation of flowers within 22-25 ° C,
air humidification with excessive air heating,
pinching out growth points at the first hint of stretching - these are the main requirements of this plant for the external environment.

Garden balsam is able to bring a lot of joy to those who decide to grow this plant from seeds and will be able to understand its delicate nature. About the same as his domestic relative is my next post.

Balsam has long been rooted in the position of a houseplant common among gardeners, the care of which we will tell you in this article. This plant is famous for its beautiful flowering, and numerous species of various colors.

The flower has many names associated with it. special properties. So, for example, due to the formation of droplets of sugary dew after watering, it is called "Vanka Wet". And its very name Impatiens is translated as "touchy", which is explained by the fact that after pollination the balsam flowers are extremely fragile, and crumble at the slightest touch.

note the fact that balsam is picky about location, temperature, lighting and air humidity, so take seriously the choice of a place for this plant. With an unsuccessful location, the balsam may not bloom, and even die.

Growing balsam - features

Different subspecies of balsam differ from each other in the shape of flowers, leaves, and even the structure of the plant. In nature, there are about 600 different types balsams, but they all have common characteristics.

Firstly, moisture requirement. It is better to overmoisten balsams than to forget to water them. For this they received the funny nickname "Wet Roly". However, stagnation of water in the roots is undesirable even for balsam.
Secondly, These plants bloom best in small pots. If you plant a balsam in a large flowerpot, it will spend all its strength on growth and tillering, and you will have to wait a long time for flowering, and it was for the sake of flowers that you purchased balsam.
Third, balsams are easily propagated both by cuttings and seeds. Although indoor views are generally easier and faster to grow from cuttings.
Well fourth, balsams are very susceptible to various diseases and require especially close attention to the leaves, otherwise, due to one damaged shoot that you did not see in time, the whole plant will die very quickly. And even if you manage to save the balsam, it may forever lose its decorative effect.

Caring for indoor balsam

Room balsams are very undemanding and non-capricious. They can grow in shady places, although light ones love, of course, more. New Guinea balsams do not need shading from direct sunlight, the rest need to be protected from the bright sun.

Location selection

All members of the balsam family are photophilous. herbaceous plants. If the house has a south-facing window, this is their place. But when placing the pot on the windowsill, it is worth considering that direct sunlight shining through the glass can singe the juicy and bright leaves.

To ensure the correct care of indoor balsam during the summer heat, it is necessary to put protection or choose an area on the windowsill where the sun's rays linger for a short time. With the advent of cold weather, the protection must be removed and the pot placed in the most illuminated place.

Balsam also:

love fresh air;
do not tolerate strong drafts;
they don’t like frost and cold - in winter it is better to move the pot with the plant away from the glass, closer to the edge of the windowsill, where you feel the heat from the battery;
while airing the room in winter, it is better to set aside the plant from the window.

If the pot is placed incorrectly, the color loses its crown shape - it stretches upwards, the stem becomes bare, the lower leaves fall off, flowering is rare. The plant throws out buds at the very top of the stem.

As a rule, this plant is not particularly picky about lighting and can successfully grow and bloom on a windowsill with any window orientation. True, this does not mean at all that it can be placed under the scorching sun or pushed into the darkest corner. As practice shows, the best place for him is light partial shade. For example, you can put it not on the windowsill, but in the wall between two windows, it grew well on a stand a meter from the southeast window.

At the same time, it was also noticed that the flowers of such a plant have a brighter color than those of plants standing in brightly lit places. For the summer, balsam can be taken out into the fresh air (balcony, for example), but keep in mind that the plant is very light and even a light breeze can pat it pretty well. But, despite this, it is quite often used in pot compositions along with petunias, lobelia, begonias, geraniums, etc. to decorate the same balconies, terraces, etc.

Location

Balsam is a lover of bright light, but at the same time on his condition very bad effect direct solar lighting Therefore, at home, the plant is recommended to be shaded from bright sunlight.

IN winter time room balsam it is necessary to provide a sufficient amount of light, because it is thanks to this that balsam bloom is possible all year round.

In order for the balsam bush to have a uniform beautiful crown, the flowerpot with the plant must be periodically rotated, exposing the flower to the sun from different sides. Lack of light can cause the plant to completely stop producing buds and will lose its charm. The flower loves fresh air, but suffers from drafts.

Temperature

In the warm period, any temperature is suitable for balsam for growth and flowering. Sudden drops can seriously damage the plant. winter period must pass at a temperature not lower than + 12-16 degrees.

The plant will be comfortable where it is warm. The subtropical plant has already adapted to our conditions, but still tolerates cold with great difficulty. Therefore, in winter the room should be at least 13-16 0 C, and in summer - 20-24 0 C.
Balsam love humidity, so if the thermometer needle has risen above 22 0 C, it is worth increasing the humidity in the room. Otherwise the flowers will dry up. It is recommended to place a container of water next to the pot.
In the warm season, the plant does not make special demands on the ambient temperature, except that sudden changes can affect it. In winter, it prefers a slightly lower temperature within + 12-16 degrees.

In spring and summer, balsam perfectly tolerates temperatures of +25 degrees and above, but on condition fresh air and wet substrate. In winter, the temperature should not fall below +10 +15 degrees.
Room balsam prefers moderate humidity, but only until the thermometer readings exceed +22 degrees.
Increasing the temperature above this value can cause rapid evaporation of moisture, resulting in balsam wither. Spraying will help save the situation, which is done carefully, trying not to get on the flowers and buds.

Watering and humidity

Balsams are moisture-loving. If the balsam is dried out, its leaves "hang like rags", but rather quickly come to their senses, having received the desired moisture. In summer, these plants are watered abundantly, less in winter, especially if the room is cool. During this period, the most comfortable temperature for balsams is about 15 degrees. However, balsams winter well in a city apartment.

After watering, especially with warm water, droplets of water form on the leaves, at the ends, as if tears, for which the people called the balsam "Wet Vanka". These "tears" are sweet, on hot days they dry up and "candied".
Balsam prefers water in large quantities. If the plant is in the room, then we water every other day. It is desirable that the pallet in which the pot stands is deep. There is no excess water for balsam.
If the plant is in open space, then watering is done every day, as well as everyday spraying. With the help of such procedures, the percentage humidity of the air will increase, as well as stop the appearance of spider mites.

Winter watering takes place once every three days or twice a week. The plant also grows in winter, so it is necessary to control the amount of water remaining in the pan after watering. The land lump must be saturated with moisture, drying out weakens the plant itself. If the soil is highly moistened, then water will stagnate in the soil, and this is a favorable environment for breeding small midges - sciarids.

Spare no water!

Watering is the most important agrotechnical requirement for caring for balsams. I first watered my first flower, like other plants - as the substrate dries. But my balsam somehow quickly drooped, the leaves withered, and the flowers and buds crumbled. Luckily, I quickly figured out why and began to water it more intensively. In summer, I water indoor balsam every other day, in winter once every 3 days or 2 times a week. In addition, I began to water it so abundantly that some of the water poured into the pan. I didn’t pour out the water from the pan, and the next day it wasn’t there! The ever-thirsty balsam drank during the night and what he could not drink during the day.

In my experience, the balsam flower is best planted in a pot that has a fairly deep bottom. It should be watered abundantly, so that part of the water is in the pan. And unlike other plants, I do not completely drain this water. Balsam on the second day already absorbs it from below.
If you allowed the flower to wilt, try watering it abundantly. It happens that after a few hours the flower comes to life, and yet such tests greatly weaken the plant. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out, the earth ball should be damp. But the stagnation of excess water is also dangerous because sciarids, tiny flying midges, will start up in the ground.

In summer, he needs normal regular watering, in winter - rare. Clean the leaves with a dry cloth. When spraying with water, avoid getting it on the flowers - shield them with paper.

Moderate but plentiful

Perennial and annual plant will give bright flowers only if the soil or soil in which they live is kept moist. In summer, the flower is given more moisture, and in winter the amount of water is reduced by 1/3. In this case, you need to water with soft water without impurities. It is recommended to defend the water from the tap for at least 2-3 days.

Frequent and moderately plentiful watering is needed. You can not flood the plant. In this case, the roots will begin to rot and the flowers will disappear. To avoid this, it is better to make good drainage.

If the balsam is properly cared for at home, then after each watering, small droplets of moisture will appear on the leaves of the plant. After a few hours they will dry out. This feature of the flower appears in the summer.

The plant is very moisture-loving. Therefore, in warm weather, you need to water regularly, when kept in summer for outdoors it's almost daily. Also, spray it daily, this will not only increase the humidity of the air, but also protect against spider mites, for which balsam is a favorite delicacy. As for winter watering, then again, keep in mind that in winter the balsam continues to grow, and, despite the lower temperature of the content, it needs watering, of course, more rare, but regular (depending on temperature).

Water procedures

Watered balsam in the summer months abundantly, as soon as the topsoil dries up. During watering, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the root collar, for which watering is carried out along the edge of the pot. After the procedure, excess water from the pan must be drained.

It is better to water the plant with settled soft water. Using hard water, can eventually be found on the surface of the soil white coating , indicating the alkalization of the soil. In this case, it is recommended to replace the top layer of soil in the pot.
Insufficient watering can provoke a lag in growth of balsam, while its flowers dry and fall off.
Indoor from time to time balsam needs in loosening the topsoil (not deeper than 1 cm), which provides air access to the roots.
Also, the flower needs top dressing, which is applied in the spring and summer once every two weeks. Fertilizers are best used complex, in half the dosage. After transplant top dressing is carried out no earlier than three weeks later.

Since the dormant period of the balsam not so pronounced, and even in winter, the flower releases buds, it is advisable to feed the plant with a weak mineral solution after their appearance. Fertilizers are applied to moist soil after watering the plant.

Bloom

Another popular name for the plant is touchy. After pollination of flowers, boxes with balsam seeds are formed, which burst at the slightest touch.

The name "balsam" (Impatiencs Balsamina) is translated as "touchy", "not touchable". This is due to the fact that boxes with balsam seeds burst even from a slight push.

And the balsam plant is also called the "light" for its bright flowers. They come in red, pink, purple and white.

Flowering, as a rule, occurs at the beginning of summer and lasts until midday autumn, but with appropriate light and temperature conditions flowers may appear throughout the winter.

Fertilizer and top dressing

For better growth and flowering, it is advisable to fertilize balsams during the flowering period once every two weeks. Balsam grows quickly, so it is transplanted annually into fresh soil for flowering plants. Overgrown plants are rejuvenated by heavy pruning. Cut shoots are used as cuttings for rooting.

For abundant flowering and good growth, the plant needs top dressing at any time of the year. From spring to autumn, when the growth of the plant stops, top dressing is applied once every ten days with fertilizer for flowers. Top dressing with alternating nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers proved to be good.
The number of winter dressings is reduced, but not completely eliminated. With a single top dressing per month, the plant will look great. The composition of dressings introduced into the ground in winter includes phosphorus and potassium.
To increase growth and flowering, it must be fed. But, as in everything, a reasonable measure should be observed, an overfed plant will bloom just as poorly as one not fed at all!

From the beginning of active growth in the spring and until its suspension in the fall, feed it once every 10 days with a regular fertilizer for flowering plants, in principle this is enough. A good result can also be achieved with separate feeding, alternating nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. In winter, reduce feeding, but do not eliminate it completely. To keep in shape, it is enough to feed him once, a maximum of two times a month. Fertilizers for winter feeding should contain a high content of potassium and phosphorus.

reproduction

Balsam readily propagates by cuttings, which quickly give roots in water. Balsams also propagate by seeds. Seeds can be planted all year round. After planting, the plants bloom in 3-4 months. Thus, you can constantly have blooming balsams of various colors at home.

Balsam can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. Seed propagation is more labor intensive. They are poured into moist soil, creating a greenhouse effect, but not the fact that the expected type of flower will be obtained. It is best to propagate balsam with cuttings. The top of the plant is cut off at a length of 6-7 centimeters with two internodes. The lower leaves are removed from it. The stalk is deeply immersed in water, otherwise it will dry out.

After two weeks, the cutting will sprout roots. Can be planted in the ground. The cuttings are also rooted in the sand, in the land mixture. You can make your own composition. To do this, we take one part of peat, one part of the substrate for mulching (vermiculite) and two parts of perlite. Can be dropped off at plastic utensils. Balsam will begin to grow, gain strength. Over time, it can be transplanted to the intended place.

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Use cuttings from the top of the stem from spring pruning. You can put them in water first until they take root, or plant them straight into the soil after treating them with rooting hormones.

cuttings

If you love homemade balsams, you will probably want to propagate them. I propagate balsams by cuttings. I cut off the most healthy and beautiful shoots and put them in water, and the cutting must be deeply immersed in the liquid, otherwise it will dry out.

I usually cut a few cuttings - just in case, so that at least one takes root, but, as a rule, they all take root well, and then I distribute the seedlings to my friends.
Once I enriched myself with several copies of balsam, carefully cutting cuttings from plants at a local agrobio station and rooting them.
Balsam can also be propagated by seeds that need to be sown in moist soil and covered with a transparent film to create a greenhouse effect and retain the moisture these flowers need.

Garden balsams are usually grown from seeds, or rather, they miraculously reproduce themselves by self-sowing.

My regular readers know that I rarely recommend seed propagation. Balsam room is no exception.

No, of course, you can collect the seeds and try this method, but firstly, it is more laborious, and secondly, in this case you may not get exactly the plant that you expected, maternal signs are practically not preserved during seed propagation, and expecting to get a plant with double flower, you will most likely get the usual "simpleton".

Therefore, it is best to propagate indoor balsam with cuttings. Moreover, it is quite simple. To do this, cut off the top of the mother plant, about 6-7 centimeters long (the cutting should have at least 2 internodes), remove the lower leaves, and place the cutting in a glass of water. All!

After a couple of weeks, the roots will appear and then the stalk can be planted in the earth mixture. You can also root the cutting in sand, perlite, or you can directly in the earth mixture. But for a beginner grower, I still recommend it in some water - more clearly. Make a light mixture for seedlings: peat, vermiculite and perlite (1: 1: 2), plastic cups are ideal for planting. When the plant gets stronger and grows up, it can be planted in a permanent mixture.

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Transfer

Balsam is a perennial flowering plant. Some flower lovers replant it every two years, as the shoots stretch, leaves fall, plants are affected by diseases and pests, which affects appearance. First of all, this applies to plants that make up a composition with other flowers. The transplanted plant blooms brighter and more abundantly, has a more attractive appearance. When transplanting, you need to remember a few rules that will help you grow a beautiful plant. The root system should fit in the pot. It should be of medium size, with big amount earth.

Balsam will bloom when the root system grows to such a size that it completely fills the entire space of the pot, penetrating the entire earthen clod. Violets should be transplanted in the same way.
If you plant a balsam in a large flowerpot, then it will spend its strength filling the entire volume with roots, and there will not be enough strength for flowering. You can grow a bouquet of balsams in one pot different color.
To do this, cuttings of different colors are taken and planted already in a much larger pot. They get along well in one pot, complementing each other.
Balsams are recommended to be replanted once a year - in the spring. After transplantation, the plant rejuvenates, gives new shoots, blooms better.
But I transplant balsam 2 times a year: in spring and autumn. At the end of summer, the shoots of balsams often stretch out and lose their leaves. And after hot days, they are easily affected by diseases.

Mandatory and transplantation of balsam after purchase in a permanent pot.

replacement flower pot produce in the spring; choose small vessels, this favors flowering.

Change of place

Indoor balsam, a perennial plant, which basically distinguishes it from a garden relative, and as a result, needs to be transplanted. In fairness, I want to note that many flower growers do not keep one plant for more than two years, but prefer to grow a young one (especially since it is elementary, but more on that below ...), since over time it grows and becomes unattractive.

This is especially true for plants that are planted in compositions with others, for these purposes it is better to always have young plant. But be that as it may, a transplant is still necessary. First of all, when transplanting (or planting) balsam, it should be remembered that the pot must match the size of the plant, or rather, the size of the root system. The fact is that flowering occurs only when the roots fill the entire space of the pot and cover the entire earthen clod (following the example of violets).

Therefore, you need to start with a small pot, gradually increasing its size. You can plant several plants in one pot, they coexist perfectly, and in this case you can take a larger pot. As for the soil ... A highly nutritious mixture that stimulates an intensive set of green mass and slows down flowering is not recommended. Most often, the following composition of the soil mixture is recommended:

Leaf land - two parts
Sod land - two parts
Humus - two parts
Peat - one part
Sand - two parts

At the same time, I want to note that even the usual mixture of leafy earth and sand (2: 1) may also be suitable. Just do not take land from under oak (such land is of little use for most plants), it is better from under maple, linden, garden trees ...

Regular procedure

Transplant indoor balsam in spring and, as needed, in summer, while young plants need to be transplanted annually. An adult balsam flower is either transplanted, or renewed after 2-3 years by rooting the apical cuttings, since over time the balsam grows, becoming unattractive.

Choosing balsam pot, it should be remembered that its size must correspond to the size of the root system of the plant. It has been noticed that more lush bloom achieved if the plant is a little cramped in the flowerpot. To give the plant a lush appearance, you can plant 2-3 copies in one pot.

soil for transplanting should not be too nutritious, as this will stimulate an intensive growth of green mass, which will inhibit flowering. To ensure the lightness and breathability of the substrate, it is necessary to add sand and peat to the leafy soil, or prepare a mixture of humus, compost, soddy soil and perlite in equal parts. One of the important conditions for transplantation is to provide balsam with high-quality drainage.

The soil

Balsam is suitable for light soil, usually a light substrate for year-round flowering plants. If the soil is oversaturated with minerals, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, this will lead to a rapid growth of bright greens and a small number of flowers. And as a result, flowers may not appear at all. You can prepare your own mixture for planting balsam:

earth mixed with leaves - two parts
earth mixture (turf land) - two parts
compost (humus) - two parts
peat - one part
sand - two parts

For transplanting, a mixture of leafy humus and sand (2: 1) is suitable. It is taken from under the maple, linden, trees in the garden.

Use loose soil, composed of equal parts of humus and peat, with a small addition of sand. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growth period.

Priming

A regular light substrate for flowering plants is suitable. Heavy soil, rich in minerals and nitrogenous compounds, will result in many leaves and few flowers, the plant may not bloom at all.

As for the filling of the flowerpot, there should not be a lot of soil, otherwise the plant will be late with flowering, “mastering the territory”. Too big a pot of earth will make the young homemade balsam grow into a bush, and he will not be up to flowers. For full flowering, balsam needs a small pot and a moderate amount of soil. Its roots should fill the flowerpot. If I want to receive beautiful bouquet on the windowsill, then I plant 2 cuttings of balsam with flowers of different colors in one wide flowerpot. They get along great.

Topping

Pinching is done for intensive flowering (dwarf varieties of balsam do not fall under this action). After such a process, a neat branched balsam bush with a large number of flowers is obtained. It is necessary to maintain an aesthetic appearance constantly. Wilted flowers and leaves are removed, allowing the plant to discard new color, as well as to prevent the attack of pests and various diseases.

If the plant sheds foliage, turns yellow or begins to wither, then this is the first sign that it has received stress. There was a sharp fluctuation in temperature, the lighting changed, a strong draft or the flower became cramped in the pot. Errors must be corrected immediately.

The procedure is mandatory if you want to achieve abundant flowering (except for dwarf varieties). At the same time, you get not only more flowers, but also a more compact, branched bush. Also, do not forget to remove faded flowers and dying leaves in time, this will not only stimulate flowering, but also protect against various misfortunes in the form of diseases and pests.

In spring, pinch off the tops of young stems to encourage flowering.

pruning

Usually in the spring, during transplantation, they produce pruning plants. If the balsam has grown too much during the winter, its stems are shortened by half. If the shoots reached desired length, their tops are pinched, thus stimulating the emergence and growth of new side shoots and dense flowering.

Pruning Helps rejuvenate the plant, and cut apical shoots are used for propagation. Also, to improve the decorative properties of balsam, old bare branches, dying leaves and flowers are removed.

Earth

An important component of caring for indoor balsam is transplanting the plant into the right soil and top dressing. Planting a cutting in a pot (balsam is propagated at home by cuttings) or a plant is transplanted in early spring before flowering or in autumn after flowering. We take soil:

1 part of earth and humus,
½ part peat and 1 part sand.

Planted balsam in a small pot. He does not like volumetric containers, since his roots must completely wrap around a lump of soil. The faster he does this, the faster he will begin to grow and produce flowers. In a large pot, growth slows down.

If there is no small container, then 2-3 cuttings can be planted in one pot at a distance of about 5-6 cm. The plants coexist perfectly with each other.

Balsam is fed as soon as the plant comes out of its "winter hibernation". As a fertilizer, a potassium-phosphorus mixture is perfect. It is added to the pot 1 time every 2 weeks of flowering. In winter, you can give nitrogen supplements. They will increase the amount of greenery on the stem, only it is worth fertilizing in small portions and not often.

Balsam can be propagated and seeds. They are sown at the end of February in a box. The plant will independently provide the owner with the necessary amount of seeds. You just have to be careful while picking them up. "Handy" at the slightest touch (a breath of wind) to a ripe box throws them out.

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Diseases and pests

Balsams rarely suffer from pests, but can be affected by spider mites and aphids.

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Balsam is subject to the same diseases as most indoor plants. But he is especially afraid of the spider mite, which appears due to too dry air. Conclusion: humidify the air and carry out a comprehensive treatment of the plant.
Due to excessive moisture in the soil, sciarids can start. In this case, it is better to transplant the plant and more pedantically observe the watering regimen.
Often, balsams at home begin to dry, curl and fall off the leaves. This may be due to a lack of light or heat, as well as if the flower becomes cramped in an old pot. Then you need to eliminate the shortcomings of caring for homemade balsam or transplant it into a larger flowerpot.

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No flowering, lower leaves turn yellow and fall off: there is not enough light, put the plant in a well-lit place.
Leaves fall in winter low temperatures, move the plant to a warmer place.
The root neck is covered with black spots: rotting due to stagnant water, dry the soil and reduce watering.
The plant produces many leaves and few flowers: the pot is too big, wait until the pot is full of roots and avoid high nitrogen fertilizers.
White webs on stems and undersides of leaves indicates the presence of a spider mite. Clean the plant of insects with a soap solution and increase the humidity of the air.

The plant can also be affected by aphids. If the balsam is heavily infested, remove the insects and spray with soapy water.

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Frequent problems

Like any home plant, balsam is not immune from various diseases and problems.

Too much heat with low humidity, it does not reflect in the best way on the condition of the plant - the leaves are drooping, flowering slows down. The plant needs to recreate optimal conditions for growth, and the flower will restore its original appearance.
Excessive watering is very harmful to balsam, as it causes occurrence fungus and mold growth. When the first signs appear fungal disease must be taken Urgent measures- the flower is taken out of the pot and, having carefully shaken the rhizome from the sour earth, they are transplanted into a flowerpot with a new, more loose soil and good drainage system.
Discovering rot on the soil surface, it is necessary to replace its top layer. If you start the disease, the chances of saving the plant are minimal.
If the balsam flowers fall, it is worth reviewing the conditions of its content. The cause of subsidence can be dry air combined with insufficient watering, insufficiently high room temperature, poor lighting and an overabundance of top dressing.
Lack of lighting can affect the color of the leaves variegated varieties, which, when there is a lack of light, becomes pale and inexpressive. At the same time, shoots are significantly stretched, which negatively affects the decorative properties of balsam.
Weak flowering or its complete absence occurs when the plant lacks nutrients or there is a bias towards nitrogenous fertilizers that stimulate foliage growth. It may also be due to an unreasonably large pot or irregular watering.