Iris (Iris) - a huge genus that unites the most various plants, which have an "iris" type of flower. At the same time, the biology of these plants is so diverse that it is difficult to suspect close relatives in them.

Of course, every plant lover has seen - familiar flowers, often grown in gardens and decorating cities.
In this article, I would like to introduce flower growers to much less commonly grown groups of irises - Juno, Iridodiktyum, Regelio-cyclus. These species differ in their biology from rhizomatous irises.
These are spring flowering plants, many of which bloom exceptionally early.
And since they are mountain plants, well-drained soil is the main condition for their successful cultivation.

Juno (Juno)

Juno (Juno)- a group of spring-flowering irises with a very peculiar biology. Juno has a remarkable form of flowers, in which the upper lobes of the perianth are reduced and laid down.

The vast majority of junos grows in Central Asia, rising from the foothills to the glaciers of the Tien Shan.
Many of the junos were described by pioneer explorers of the flora of these places hundreds of years ago. However, up to the present time, discoveries in this reserve of Juno are possible (and happen).

The peculiar exotic beauty of junos immediately attracted the attention of plant lovers. Cultivation attempts have never stopped since their discovery. And yet most of the junos did not become common garden plants. However, several species are constantly grown by nurseries and can be classified as plants that grow well in temperate climates.

Juno hybridization was started by the famous florist Thomas Hog, who created three hybrids at the end of the 19th century. This is where the selection stopped, although there are opportunities for its continuation.

Growing junos is akin to collecting jewelry - experienced flower growers who are not indifferent to these plants are fond of this.
There is now a resurgence of interest in Juno due to impressive finds made during Central Asian expeditions (sponsored by the Gothenburg Botanical Gardens).

Juno bulbs have perennial roots - at their base are buds that give life to replacement bulbs.
In all operations with junos, one should try not to break off their roots.

In horticulture, the following types and forms of junos are found:

- Iris (Juno) aucheri - originally from Yu.V. Turkey. beautiful view, long and successfully grown in Europe, but somewhat demanding on heat. Therefore, there are years when it may not bloom in the open field.

In the photo: Iris aucheri BLUE STAR; Iris aucheri PURPLE STAR; Iris bucharica

- Iris (Juno) bucharica hort. - its origin is unknown. It has been cultivated for a very long time. It differs from natural forms in the two-tone color of the flowers. One of the most unpretentious representatives of junos, it breeds well vegetatively and grows successfully even without annual digging.

- Iris (Juno) cycloglossa- this species was found relatively recently (in 1972) in Afghanistan. The most peculiar of all junos, it grows well in Lithuania. It has a branching leafless peduncle. Almost flat flower with very large limb lobes. It reproduces vegetatively, usually producing 2 daughter bulbs.

- Iris (Juno) graeberiana - the origin of the species is unknown. Two forms are cultivated, in which the structure and color of the flowers are somewhat different. More common form with a white spot on the limbs of the lower petals of the flower. The rarer form is yellow spot on bends. I did not observe seed setting in both varieties. Perhaps these are interspecific natural hybrids. They are one of the few tall junos that grow well in our open field. Blooms profusely and annually.

- Iris (Juno) NEW ARGUMENT – my hybrid. The name of the variety was not accidental. Its appearance confirmed the assumption that the famous Van Tubergen hybrid Iris WARLSIND is most likely the result of an accidental pollination of I. warleyensis with pollen from I. bucharica hort, and not from I. aucheri (as previously thought). The hybrid is sterile, grows well and multiplies.

In the photo: Iris hyb. NEW ARGUMENT; Iris magnifica ALBA

- Iris (Juno) magnifica ALBA - white-flowered form of the species J. magnifica - endemic to the Zeravshan Mountains. The tallest of all Juno, in good conditions reaching almost a meter in height. The flowers are large, 7 - 9 pieces, bloom sequentially. The bulb has numerous, thick rhizomes that make digging up a chore (however, you don't have to dig them up every year). This variety is one of the few that does well in the garden and is relatively undemanding. As a rule, the mother bulb produces two daughters annually. It sets seeds well, but seedlings do not always repeat the color of their parents and may have flowers with a bluish tint.

- Iris (Juno) BLUE MYSTERY- obtained as a seedling of I. willmottena. However, the plants were unusually large for this species and sterile, which clearly indicated their hybrid origin. From their appearance, it can be assumed that the parent pair was: I. willmottiana and I. magnifica. Yet this is nothing more than an assumption, which is why the hybrid is called "BLUE MYSTERY". The most beautiful juno, perfectly growing and breeding in our climate.

- Iris (Juno) kuschakewiczii - this is the case when miniaturization does not detract from the merits. A real small section diamond comes from the North-Western spurs of the Tien Shan. The plant is the rarest in culture and difficult. Of course, it will "disappear" in plantings of tall species, but on and in it is irresistible.

- Iris (Juno) nicolai - the species is widespread in the Tien Shan mountains. The earliest of the Juno. It blooms after the snow melts, almost without leaves, they appear later. A huge impression is made by her large flower of a pretentious form, growing directly from the soil that is still covered with snow in some places. Plants from different populations of the species differ in flower color. The species is not frost-resistant enough for our climate; plantings of juno must be insulated with peat.

- Iris (Juno) orchioides - has a wide range in the mountains of Central Asia. Plants from different regions differ in height and color of flowers. Pretty high shape with bright yellow flowers received by me from the Alma-Ata Botanical Garden. Grows well in open ground. thermophilic; blooms better if the previous summer was warm.

- Iris (Juno) SINDPERS- the famous Van Tubergen hybrid. The plant is short, but its flowers are huge, beautifully shaped and very fragrant. Heat-loving, does not like cool rainy summers, should be planted in a sunny place. If it is possible to grow a plant in a cold greenhouse, then you will fully enjoy its enchanting flowering.

- Iris (Juno) SHOCKING BLUE- selected from seedlings of I. willmotteana. Its flowers are similar to the BLUE MYSTERY variety, but their color is more saturated. Sterile.

- Iris (Juno) vicaria- the species is widely distributed in the mountains of Central Asia. The flowers are predominantly light, almost white in color. Rarely are populations with more or less purple petals. Unpretentious, grows well and multiplies.

- Iris (Juno) warleyensis- one of the most beautiful junos, growing in the western spurs of the Tien Shan (Zerafshan Range, Kugitang Range). Plants from different natural populations differ in stem height from 15 to 40 cm. It grows well in open ground. However, abundant flowering is difficult to achieve, especially if the previous summer was cold. Good results are obtained if the bulbs are not dug up, but after the completion of the growing season, cover the area from rain with glass or other transparent material. You can also, after digging, put the bulbs in dry sand and warm them in the greenhouse. The species was used by Van Tubergen to create the WARLSIND hybrid. Despite repeated introductions, it is still rare in culture.

- Iris (Juno) WARLSIND is Van Tubergen's tallest hybrid, as is now recognized by I. warleyensis and I. bucharica hort. It grows well in our climate, blooms annually, develops well and propagates vegetatively.

Iridodictiums IRIDODICTYUM

Iridodictium (Iridodictyum)- group of graceful bulbous irises blooming in early spring. Interesting faceted hollow leaves of iridodictiums growing vertically. A plant has exactly as many leaves as bulbs subsequently form. According to the structure of the leaves, only a few species (Central Asian), which have grooved leaves, are an exception in the group.

In the photo: reticulated irises (Iris reticulata)

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Quite rare footage of a water sparrow - a dipper was made by Igor Mavrin, an employee of the Sokhondinsky Reserve, who works at the Bukukun cordon. And these photographs are unique in that this bird is a rare guest in our area.

Dipper , or common dipper (cinclus cinclus) - bird order of passeriformes. She is also called water thrush or water sparrow. Bird small size, plumagehas a dark brown, thick. It lives along the banks of fast transparent rivers and streams.

Eats aquatic insects and crustaceans, which the dipper collects in shallow water, between stones and under water. Main Feature are the ability to swim and dive well even in cold water. Raising its wings, deftly maneuvering in the flow of water, the bird, as it were, “runs” along the bottom. Dipper can stay under water for up to 50 seconds, running up to 20 meters during this time. She is a very alert and sensitive bird.

"Recently I I met a rare bird for our places - a dipper. Its rarity is evidenced by the fact that for 28 years that I live in Zabaykalye, saw her for the second time- commented the author of unique pictures, Igor Mavrin, - and most importantly, I managed to take several photos of this feathered guest.

Ivan Sergeevich Sokolov - Mikitov, a Russian travel writer, wrote very interestingly about this amazing bird at one time: “You need to be a skilled observer of nature in order to see a wonderful dipper. If you have to visit deserted forests or mountainous places, look and listen carefully. On a clear and fast stream or river, perhaps you will be lucky enough to see a dipper!”

Drought is a prolonged period of insufficient rainfall, which is most dangerous for plants during high temperature and low air humidity. It is necessary to help plants survive in this difficult time, otherwise, due to lack of moisture, their development stops.

The first sign of dehydration in a plant is lost turgor, sluggish leaves and buds. If the plant does not make up for the loss of water at this stage, then its leaves and buds will then begin to turn yellow, dry and fall off; soon the process will spread to the entire aerial part of the plant. As long as the root receives at least a small amount of moisture from the ground, the plant can still be reanimated in most cases. Drying out of the root system means the death of the plant.

It may seem ridiculous that living in the UK, you can complain about the long absence of rainfall, because old Britain is known for its rainy climate. However, the South East of England, where we live, is probably the driest place in the country - droughts happen quite often here. In the winters of 2004-2006 there was a lack of rain that broke all records since 1933!

According to information BBC Weather, since November 2004 we have only received 72% of the average rainfall. By early July 2006, about three weeks there was a drought: virtually no rain at air temperatures above 30 degrees during the day and 15-17 at night. It will be possible to fully assess the damage from the drought only next year, if it affects the flowering of azaleas and rhododendrons, which just at this time lay the buds of next year.

A dry start to the 2006 season inspired the design of the 2006 Chelsea Competition Gardens with drought-related themes. An interesting element in African garden (GardenAfrica): the beds are arranged in a spiral under a slope. When watering, water flows from top to bottom along the boundary and collects in the center of the spiral, where the most moisture-loving plants are located.

A garden that is not afraid of drought

Of course, the negative impact of drought on plants as a whole is determined by several factors: the duration of the drought, the air temperature and wind strength during this period, the possibility of access to water and the availability of the necessary human resources. However, if you keep in mind the possibility of drought even during the strategic planning of the garden and plantings, then you can initially take measures that will help the plants survive in the drought, and save labor and time for the owners.

> Try to sow and plant new plants in the spring or fall when there is sufficient rainfall and the plants are easy to root and establish. On the other hand, it should be remembered that, in general, plants in containers are more vulnerable to drought than plants in open ground. Therefore, if a new plant from the garden center somehow needs to be transplanted into the garden, I would transplant it in the summer in the heat, be sure to provide regular abundant watering and protection from direct sun rays.

> When planting and transplanting plants, dig a deeper hole in the soil and be sure to add leaf humus or garden compost to it, which improve the structure and composition of the soil, allow moisture to freely penetrate to the roots and retain it there for a long time.

> Use special water-retaining granules or gel, which are abundantly saturated with water during watering, and then gradually release this water to the roots. These funds should be mixed with the ground when planting or transplanting plants. They are especially important for plants in containers.

> Be sure to use mulch on flower borders, around shrubs and trees, and on the surface of plant pots and baskets. Mulch should be laid out in the spring - after warm weather sets in, and the earth warms up and is saturated with moisture. As mulching materials, you can use chopped tree bark, sawdust, shavings, needles, gravel, the same garden compost or special synthetic garden material. The choice of mulch depends on the type of plant (for example, bark, sawdust and needles acidify the soil, so they are well laid out under hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias, heathers and other acidophiles). Plant mulching allows moisture to seep into the soil during rains or irrigation, but makes it harder for it to evaporate and also inhibits weed growth.

> Remove weeds in a timely manner, which will compete fiercely with “cultivated” plants during a drought. Weeds are easier to remove when they are just emerging from the ground.

> Plant neighboring plants closely, leaving only the space necessary for root development between them. Close-to-close leaves of plants reduce evaporation of moisture and drying out of the soil

> If you, like me, live in a region with frequent droughts, then consider this when placing plants in the sunny and shady areas of the garden. Give preference to drought-resistant plants. Often such plants have silvery foliage, needles or thick leaves. Ornamental drought-resistant plants include: chistets, wormwood, eryngium, lavender, santolina, cistus, poppy, spurge, yarrow, iris, echinacea, acanthus, bergenia, etc.
Do not need watering, for example, meadow flowers, succulents and ornamental grasses, aromatic plants, pumpkin, corn.

Watering plants in drought conditions

The ideal time for regular, scheduled watering is a calm late evening when the heat subsided, a cool night lies ahead, and moisture evaporation is minimal. Let's allow watering in the early morning, before the onset of heat. However, if the plant looks dehydrated on a hot day, it should be watered immediately, avoiding water on the leaves to avoid sunburn.
If you use an automatic watering system, don't forget to reset the timer according to changing weather conditions - then the plants will get large quantity moisture they need during the dry season.

In hot weather, plants in containers should be watered twice a day: in the early morning and late evening. Set the pots in deep trays or in planters that can hold at least a little water. If you are not able to provide regular watering for container plants, then it is better to rearrange them in the shade.
Plants in greenhouses and greenhouses can suffer from overheating during the heat, because the temperature indoors behind glass rises much higher than outdoors. Remember to open the doors and windows of the greenhouse through and through on hot days and use fans (if any).
Use sprinklers for daily watering of young grass crops or freshly laid turf. Place an open glass bowl in the area of ​​​​the sprayer and stop watering when it fills with water to a level of 13 mm (a smaller amount will not do any good, and more will be wasted).

How to save water and effort

Due to lack of rain and dangerous low level reserves of drinking water, during a drought we have introduced an official ban on watering private gardens tap water from hoses. In theory, at this stage, we have no restrictions on the use of tap water for irrigation (although they may arise later, if the drought continues and water supplies disappear, then more stringent rules will come into force). However, in practice, the need to use a watering can instead of a hose in itself imposes these restrictions, because the time and effort required to water the garden increase many times over. Then you have to make a very tough choice: which plants need to be watered today, otherwise they can be almost completely dehydrated until tomorrow.

If you have similar or some other restrictions, and watering plentifully, qualitatively does not work, you may need a few simple methods that I use to save water, labor and time:

> Before watering your plants, determine your priorities and stick to them clearly. Watering is vital for seedlings just planted in open ground young plants, plants in containers (especially small ones), plants in greenhouses, fresh grass crops, freshly laid turf rolls and moisture-loving plants (eg shore or marsh plants). These plants will die without water.

In second place may be plants that will not bloom with a lack of water, or fruit crops that will not be able to successfully bear fruit without watering (or any other plants, depending on your goals).

Watering is more necessary for plants on light, sandy soils, which dry out faster than heavy, clay soils.

> Abundant and rare watering is preferable to stingy and frequent. The fact is that a small amount of water penetrates only into upper layer soil, contributing to the development of weak, high-lying roots, which are the first to suffer from drying out of the soil or frost. Developing a strong and deep root system that can support the plant in harsh weather conditions requires water to penetrate deep into the soil around the plant. The correct depth of soil moisture during irrigation is about 60 cm.

> If you are planning to purchase and use an irrigation system in your garden, then invest in a modern drip or jet system (instead of a traditional sprinkler system). The water delivered by such systems appears at the right time (late in the evening or even when you are not at home) thanks to a timer on the tap, gets exactly as intended to the roots of plants and is absorbed to the last drop without being spent on watering neighboring weeds.

> Before watering, loosen the soil around the plant and make a small hole so that the plant is in the middle of the depression. All water after watering will remain in this hole and, as it is absorbed, it will get to the roots of the plant, and will not spread over dry soil. In autumn, with the arrival of rains, you can spud the plant, leveling the hole with the level of the ground to prevent stagnant water at the roots. The rest of the time, if possible, try not to disturb the soil during the drought period: any loosening contributes to additional evaporation of moisture from the soil.

> Remove the shower head from the watering can (or hose) and water the plant to the very root - then all the water will get to its intended purpose, and will not spread around the plant.

> To water the plants in containers, I use a large wide container filled with water, in which I alternately place pots and hanging baskets for a while. Thus, all the soil in the container gets wet through, and the plants receive a large amount of moisture. It is also an excellent way to urgently resuscitate already affected plants with a dry earthy clod, for which ordinary watering is completely useless. This method of moisturizing is not harmful even in the hottest hours, because water does not fall on the leaves of plants.

From time to time, water from the container can be poured under some kind of shrub, because it has accumulated a significant amount of nutrients from the soil of container plants.

> Look for opportunities to use so-called “secondary” water (leftover from laundry, cleaning, dishwashing or showering) to water ornamental plants, trees and shrubs. To do this, you may need to change your home's drain system. The recycled water, along with the remains of household detergents, contains a lot of phosphates, which your plants will enjoy as a good fertilizer.

Remember that water from the dishwasher and washing machine Allow plants to cool to room temperature before watering. It is advisable to use non-harmful environment decomposed by microorganisms detergents. Water with residues of bleach, bleach, disinfectants and other strong chemicals should not be used to water plants.

> Purchase and install special barrels in the garden to collect rainwater. Such barrels are directly connected to a pipe into which water enters from gutters located along the perimeter of the roof of a house or greenhouse. The barrels are mounted on an elevation so that you can substitute a watering can under the opening tap (or attach a hose to it). You can use the water accumulated in the barrels to water the plants as needed.

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Among other species in your collection, be sure to ask what variety it belongs to and find information about the features. home care- including about how to properly water new "green pet".

Below you will find practical advice to help you properly water most popular houseplants. We will look at issues such as the choice of dishes for watering flowers, what water to water the flowers, the frequency of watering, signs of lack of moisture, watering methods, how to water orchids and other indoor plants during your vacation.

♦ WARE FOR WATERING INDOOR FLOWERS:

watering can with a long spout. Practical equipment - a long spout can be easily directed through a dense crown, under the lower leaves or directly under the root rosette, so as not to drip water on the delicate leaves of the flower. Very convenient equipment for watering plants in a phytowall or in phytomodules ( vertical gardening) ;

flask. A special device with an elongated tip and a spherical container for water. Such inventory can be of great help when you need to leave for a long time. It is enough to fill the container with water and stick the nose of the flask into the soil, which will gradually be saturated with moisture as it dries;

sprayer for spraying (sprayer). By spraying with water from a spray bottle, it is possible to provide additional income moisture through the upper parts of the plant. This method will help you preserve the decorative qualities of the plant in the heat of summer or during the heating season, when the humidity level in the room is very low;

tray with water. A great way to additionally moisten the soil in a pot if the air in the room is too dry. Desirable flower pot put not directly into the water, but on wet expanded clay or on pebbles in a pan.

♦ WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF INDOOR FLOWERS:

rain, river, pond water. Some flower growers prefer to water indoor plants with melt and rain water. Flowers respond well to watering with soft water from natural sources. But it is necessary to disinfect the water, add a few pieces charcoal;

tap water. Most residents of megacities water their flowers with tap water. But it is important to remember that chlorinated tap water with sparingly soluble calcium salts is very hard. Be sure to defend this water for at least 24 hours (or better - several days) before watering the flowers, and pour the rest from the very bottom. Water the plants with room temperature or lukewarm water.

- in the photo: signs of lack and excess of water

♦ FREQUENCY OF WATERING INDOOR FLOWERS:

❂ Most houseplants like regular and even watering to keep the substrate moderately moist. If the period of abundant soil moisture is abruptly replaced by a period of insufficient moisture, then the flower begins to wither and may die b;

❂ in winter period in many indoor plants, the processes of growth and development slow down (or stop altogether). The need for water with dissolved nutrients is significantly reduced and the plant needs to be watered much less often (or not at all). And in the spring-summer period, with an increase in the duration solar lighting and an increase in temperature, the frequency of watering increases to 1-3 times a week;

❂ plants with large and wide leaves are watered more often (Benjamin and rubber ficus, Andre anthurium, spathiphyllum, home begonia, gloxinia synningia, jasmine gardenia, gerbera, balsam, sheffler, dieffenbachia). Bulbous species should be watered moderately and less frequently, since waterlogging can lead to rotting of the root system (hippeastrum, clivia, amaryllis, calla zantedeschia, oxalis oxalis, hyacinths, eucharis Amazon lily). Most types of potted orchids (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered no more than once a week in winter and no more than twice a week in summer. Eat indoor views, which easily tolerate long breaks between watering (succulent species - Crassula Money tree, aloe vera or agave, triangular spurge, zygocactus Decembrist, as well as species such as Kalanchoe Blossfeld, chlorophytum, " mother-in-law's tongue"or sansevieria);

❂ ceramic (clay) pots have a good porous structure, circulation and evaporation of moisture is more active. But plastic pots hold water well in the substrate. Therefore, it is necessary to water a flower placed in a ceramic pot more often than in a plastic one.

In the photo: rare, moderate and abundant watering

♦ WAYS OF WATERING INDOOR PLANTS:

❀ top watering. For watering a flower from above, it is advisable to use special dishes with a long spout (watering can, flask). It is advisable to direct the spout closer to the stem so that water does not fall on the leaves. If the plant has a developed leaf rosette, try to direct the stream of water under it so that the water does not stagnate. Water the plant evenly, in small portions, so that the water does not stagnate on the top layer of soil. Pour out all the water flowing into the pan. This is a universal way to water indoor species. The disadvantage of this method is that they are quickly washed out. useful material substrate sludge. Therefore, do not forget to feed the plants on time.

❀ bottom watering. Some types of ornamental deciduous plants lose their attractiveness if drops of water fall on the leaves (yellowish or black spots appear, the leaf blade is deformed). Therefore, the pan is filled with water for irrigation. Within 30-40 minutes, the substrate is moistened to the top layer and all excess water must be drained from the pan. The disadvantage of this method is that mineral salts are not washed out on the contrary - they linger in the soil for a long time. If a lime crust has appeared on the surface of the soil, then carefully remove it along with the top layer, adding a fresh substrate.

❀ immersion of the pot in water. Very good method moistening, allowing the soil to be completely saturated with water. Lower the flower pot into a container of water so that water does not flow into the substrate through the edges of the pot. Water will quickly soak all layers of the substrate through the drainage holes. Then place the pot on a wire rack so that any excess water flows down freely. It is not advisable to use this method of moistening during the flowering period of the plant, when moving the pot can cause the buds and petals to fall off.

- tables with factors affecting the abundance and frequency of irrigation

♦ WATERING HOUSE PLANTS DURING HOLIDAYS:

√ vacation up to two weeks.

We moisten the soil abundantly by immersing each pot in water;

☛ plants with small fleshy leaves that are in a dormant period, located in a cool room with high humidity, grown in plastic or glass containers, are watered less often;

☛ if the tap water contains too much lime, it is advisable to pass it through a special filter in order to use soft water for irrigation;

☛ never use cold water for irrigation, as this can lead to the gradual death of peripheral roots, the appearance of viral and fungal diseases;

☛ The most ideal time for watering most indoor species is early morning (with sunrise);

☛ on hot summer days and during heating, it is necessary to spray the plants with a spray bottle. Next to the plants, you can put a container with water for additional humidification.

♦ HOW TO WATER AN ORCHID AT HOME:

❶ You can water orchids only with warm, settled soft water. It is advisable to water rare collectible and whimsical indoor orchid species with diluted distilled water. Mix settled water of medium hardness with distilled water in a ratio of 1:1. And mix too hard water with distilled water in a ratio of 1: 2;

❷ if the orchid is without bulbs, then water it after the substrate is completely dry, and the lower leaves begin to lose turgor and wrinkle. If the orchid is with bulbs, then water the flower after the bulbs begin to wrinkle a little;

❸ During flowering, most popular domestic varieties (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered very moderately 2-3 times a week. Make sure that water never stagnates in the pot around the roots and flows freely from the drainage holes;

❹ The best way watering orchids in the summer - soaking the pot in warm settled water for 10-15 minutes. Be sure to make sure that the water drains completely from the holes in the bottom of the pot after soaking;

❺ how often to water an orchid at home. Complete drying of the soil is much safer for the root system than overflow. Most species can be watered at a frequency, which is defined as follows: once the substrate is completely dry, the next day in the morning you can water the flower moderately. But do not forget that the frequency of watering also depends on the following factors: the type of orchid, the growing season or dormant period, the humidity and temperature in the room, the composition of the soil, the pot (the volume of what material it consists of).

♦ VIDEO:

How to properly moisten the soil in a pot (for example, indoor begonia):
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ALSO DISCOVER...

Olga Gorbatova
Labor in nature "Teaching children to water indoor plants" (younger group)

Program tasks:

Learn children practical skills watering

introduce children with the structure of the labor process

Cultivate an attitude towards plants as to living beings, to cultivate the desire to regret plant effectively help him

vocabulary work:

Plant, watering can, pot with a pallet, stem, leaves, root, water, wet earth, beautiful, healthy.

Equipment:

Models labor process, apron, oilcloth, watering can, flower in a pot with a pallet

Aprons, oilcloths, water cans, flowers in pots with a pallet

preliminary work:

Watching plant(acquaintance with the features of appearance, structure, observation of plant in favorable and unfavorable conditions (lack of moisture, observation of the labor of a teacher to water the plants of a corner of nature(acquaintance with the model labor process)

OD move

Organization children:

Children stand at tables arranged with the letter P

Introduction

Children, Mishka came to us and brought a flower with him.

The bear greets the children.

Guys, let's ask Mishka why he is so sad, not funny?

Bear says he is sad because his favorite the plant was so beautiful, as in the picture (shows the model, you have now become like this (shows plant) . Mishka says he doesn't know what happened to him, he's sorry plant That's why he's sad.

And you feel sorry for Mishkino plant? (yeah, sorry)

Let's take pity on Mishka, tell him sweet words, don't cry Mishka, we will help you, and you will be cheerful, joyful again.

Children, why Mishkino the plant became?What did he forget to do?

Let's hear what he's asking plant.

The plant asks to have it watered and then it will get better.

Guys, Mishka says he can't water now probably his the plant will die.

Children, can we help Mishka? (Can)

How? (we can teach him water the plant)

goal setting:

Let's teach Mishka the right way water the plant

Children, we want plant how did you feel? (Fine)

To become what? (speaks with children; to plant it felt good to have the leaves pointing up, for the stalk to look up, for the ground to be moist). In order not to forget about it, put a picture (model - plant in good condition)

Which plant now? (survey in progress plants: condition of leaves, stem, ground). In order not to forget what plant now, put a picture (model - plant in poor condition). plant need to help soon. To do this, you need to choose the right tools.

Children, Mishka says that he knows what to do.

Look, he brought a watering can. Look, the watering can has a handle so that we can hold the watering can, the watering can has a spout, water pours out of the spout, there is a hole, water is poured into the watering can into this hole.

Children, what is missing in Mishka's watering can? (water)

What kind of watering can you take? In order not to forget that you need to take a watering can with water, put a picture (model - means labor: watering can)

Now what are we going to do?

Children, Mishka says that he remembered how water and wants to show us (Mishka holds a watering can with one hand, pours water on the leaves, under the root, wants to pour all the water from the watering can at once).

Bear, you are wrong. watering the plant. You can not pour water under the root and on the leaves, and immediately pour out all the water from the watering can. The plant may die.

Look, children, how will I be water the plant. Before starting work, I will put on an apron so as not to wet or stain my clothes. The flower is in a pot with a pallet on an oilcloth. I take a watering can with water, I put the spout of the watering can to the edge of the pot, pour water slowly, gradually until water appears on the pan.

In order not to forget that the plant needs to be watered put a picture(model labor actions) .

Children, what will become plant if we water it right? ( plant will be in good condition, the stem will be even, the drooping sluggish leaves will also rise, they will be even, elastic.)

Let's put a picture so we don't forget (model - plant in good condition)

Anchoring

Before starting work, what will we do? (put on an apron)

How are we going to hold the watering can? (nose at the edge of the pot)

How much water will we pour? (until water appears on the pan)

What will become plant after watering? (plant will be in good condition)

Independent work

Bear, yours we helped the plant now it will get better.

Some the plants in our group need help too, water them so that they do not become like in the picture (showing the model - plant in poor condition)

Children, do you want to help?

Then you need to find plants who are thirsty. Like the picture (Model Shown) plants in poor condition)

The bear, together with the teacher, is watching child labor I ask clarifying questions. When difficulties I come to help children.

I remind the children that it is time to finish the work and that they need to bring workplace in order.

Didactic game "Where did the Bear hide?"

Didactic task: specify the name of acquaintances plants

game rule: Find Bear

game action: finding a playable character and naming plants behind which he hid

Children, soon our plants will become as beautiful, healthy as in the picture (showing the model - plant in good condition)

They will feel good. We did two good deeds today: helped plants and taught Mishka to water his plant.

The bear says thank you to all of you, now it plant will feel good. He is very happy about it. Now Mishka has learned water the plant, and will always take care of it so that it is in good condition and pleases with its beauty.

Children, are you glad you helped? plants? (emotionally share joy children)

Indoor plants are in almost every home. This is the best interior decoration. In order for green pets to grow beautiful and healthy, they need to provide proper care. In this article, we will learn how to take care of indoor plants.

General rules of care

There is a lot different types indoor plants. Each variety has its own external characteristics and care features. However, there general rules cultivation of all domestic plants. Let's take a look at how to properly care for them.

Moderation

Caring for most types of houseplants is easy.. Many of the green pets are unpretentious, so beginner flower growers manage to grow them. In any case, when caring for indoor plants, moderation must be observed in everything. Necessary watering and fertilizing is required to be made without undue zeal. There should not be an excess in liquid or fertilizers in any case.. And they need to be added in a timely manner. If you do not observe moderation in caring for indoor plants, you can face a lot of serious problems.

For example, waterlogging of the soil often leads to rotting of the root system of plantings. As a result, flowers can begin to get very sick, and subsequently risk dying.

Compliance with the rest period

When caring for indoor plants, we must not forget about the rest period necessary for them. In winter, many well-known varieties of house flowers go into a kind of “low power consumption” mode. In such a period, there is no need for top dressing. Watering and other caring manipulations should be reduced.

Maintaining appearance

It is equally important to keep your houseplants looking healthy and attractive. It is required to remove dried buds, inflorescences, leaf blades and shoots in a timely manner. These manipulations will contribute to the preservation and attractiveness and health of plants.

Deprived of dead components, flowers will not expend vitality, nourishing unnecessary parts.

Disease and pest control

Every grower knows what houseplants need daily inspection. Thus, it is easier to monitor the condition of green pets. Subject to regular inspections, a person can notice the onset of diseases that have affected plants in time. Most often, damage by a fungus or viruses can be seen on indoor flowers. Started on time proper treatment will be more successful.

Set of tools

Any operations carried out to care for plants, whether it be watering, planting, transplanting or fertilizing, are carried out using the appropriate equipment. Consider what exactly a grower will need to grow green pets.

• Watering can. When buying this device, it is recommended to select options with an elongated spout. Using such options for watering cans, watering is much more convenient and easier. At the same time, water can penetrate even through thick leaves. indoor flower. With a suitable watering can, watering the plant will be complete and safe.
• Flask. What this device looks like is known to everyone. An elongated tip of an elongated structure and a spherical water tank make the flask an indispensable item for automatic watering of indoor flowers during the departure of the owners. It is enough to pour clean water into the container and stick it into the ground with the tip down. The soil will be saturated with the necessary moisture gradually, as it dries out.
• Sprayer. The spray gun can be used when caring for not all types of indoor plants. Some varieties do not need moistening of leaf plates. But keep in mind that with the onset of too hot days, the foliage can still dry out, which will negatively affect appearance landings, so the spray gun can be a very useful device.
• Tray with water. Most often, this detail is used if the houseplant grows in a room with very dry air. Do not put a flower pot directly into the water. It is advisable to add expanded clay or pebbles. These components will gradually absorb excess moisture, transferring it to the rhizomes. The described method of caring for flowers is especially in demand and useful if they are located in close proximity to heating devices. With the advent of the winter seasons, they will need regular replenishment with life-giving moisture, which the grower should not forget about.

All the necessary equipment for caring for plants can be bought in special garden stores. Typically, these devices are inexpensive.

Indoor plants need to provide optimal conditions. Let us consider in detail what the florist should take care of.

Location and lighting

Many indoor plants need adequate lighting. Typically, daylight hours should be between 12 and 16 hours per day. At times when the plant is at rest, these time frames can be shortened. Since in our country the climatic conditions are not favorable everywhere, people often have to resort to auxiliary lighting (special lamps will do). This is especially true for heat-loving tropical flowers that prefer to grow on the sunny side.

It is not recommended to expose indoor plants on the windowsill under the most direct rays of the sun. In such conditions, green pets are at risk of getting burned. The sun should not be in excess. Diffused light or light partial shade is ideal - it all depends on the preferences of a particular type of plant. It is worth bearing in mind that in low light, the processes of photosynthesis will inevitably slow down. This will negatively affect the health of the flower.

Temperature

At home, heat-loving plants are most often grown that cannot survive on the street. Such landings need warm, room temperature air in the room where they grow. The optimal indicators are from +16 to +22 degrees Celsius.

Even tropical species of indoor plants "do not like" excessive heat. Do not try to create conditions in your home that are too close to the jungle. Rare indoor flowers "will like" temperature indicators exceeding +24 degrees. And there are crops that grow better in a slightly cool environment (for example, at a temperature of +15 degrees Celsius).

Humidity

The main percentage of indoor plants belongs to the moisture-loving category. The humidity level should be slightly above average. At the same time, one should not forget about the direct origin of domestic flowers - most of them come from the humid tropics. High humidity indicators have a beneficial effect not only on the condition of plants, but also on people.

Try to ensure that the air around indoor flowers is not dry. This will adversely affect their appearance and health in general. This will increase the risk of pest attacks.

The soil

It is important to take care of the use of high-quality soil for flowers. Houseplants have nowhere else to take nutrients except from the soil mixture. The soil should contain not only all the necessary nutrients. The earth must also have a suitable structure. It should not be too loose or too dense. It is important to take care of the drainage layer in the plant pot. A drainage layer is needed for almost all home flowers.

Pot

Modern flower growers can independently choose in which tank to grow indoor plants. On sale there is a mass of suitable containers made of different materials: pots, flowerpots, boxes. All utensils for flowers are divided into 2 types:

• for growing- in such pots there are already drainage holes;
• for decor- pots are meant in which there are no additional holes, so they can be placed anywhere without fear of possible leaks.

Houseplants do best in grow tanks. However, such containers look much simpler; with their help, it is unlikely that it will be possible to effectively decorate the interior.

How to water?

Growing your favorite plants at home it is important to take care of their proper watering. All crops love moisture. Under conditions of protected ground in a pot, there is nowhere for flowers to get it, so a person should not forget about the timely introduction of a liquid that feeds the plantings. Some crops easily survive temporary drought (for example, succulents), but there are varieties that begin to wither rapidly if you skip at least a couple of waterings.

Bulbous plants survive drought most easily. They already have a certain supply of moisture that is collected in their fleshy areas. But flowers with thin stems are at risk of dying from lack of moisture. The frequency of watering directly depends on the time of year, a certain variety of indoor plants, as well as the ambient temperature. In winter, autumn and in cool conditions, house flowers should be less frequently moistened. Anyway before watering, you need to make sure that the top earthen layer in pots with plants has already dried up.

loosening

In order to prevent a white salt crust from accumulating on the upper part of the substrate, and also in order to increase the permeability qualities, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil. But you need to pay attention to the structure of the root system of plants - if it is superficial, maximum caution is required.

Trimming and shaping

Many of the novice flower growers who do not have rich experience treat the procedure for pruning indoor plants with a slight fear, considering it to be both difficult and traumatic. But there is nothing to be afraid of. If everything is done correctly and the flower is formed carefully, there will be no problems. Green pets will not suffer from this in any way.

If you need to remove the growth point at the top of the landings, then here you can use the simplest technology - topping. If the flower has thin stems, pinching can be done with 2 fingers. If we are talking about a fleshy plant, then it is best to use scissors - it will be more convenient and easier. For pruning, always take a pruner, knife or scissors. This procedure cannot be done manually.

How to transplant?

A transplant is required for all types of indoor plants, especially when it comes to young plantings. They grow pretty fast so they need a transplant every spring in the first 3 years of life. Adult indoor flowers no longer need frequent transplants. It is necessary to transplant them to another place only as needed - depending on the growth rate, plant size and other circumstances.

At times, indoor plants need unscheduled transplant. Most often, it has to be resorted to if certain diseases or serious damage by dangerous pests occur. If too much waterlogging of the soil mixture has occurred, it is better to transplant the plants as soon as possible, without waiting for the rhizomes to rot. If the transplant is planned, a fresh flower pot is selected 2-3 cm larger in diameter.

Mature and slow growing crops are often transplanted into the same pot, you just need to change the ground in it.

Fertilizers and growth stimulants

Indoor plants should be fertilized with balanced mineral compositions. They must be rich in essential ingredients(from potassium to phosphorus). The use of high-quality fertilizers strictly according to the instructions will lead to an improvement in the general condition of the plantings, an improvement in root formation and rooting. fit saturated funds like "Kornevin".

Liquid formulations should be used according to the scheme: every 2 weeks during the period of active growth (from April to September). Fertilizer candles are simply inserted into the substrate, where they nourish the soil. The granular components are laid out on the surface of the soil mixture. The use of complex dressings is necessary for many indoor plants in August.

How to propagate?

Exist various ways propagation of indoor plants. Let's analyze the most popular of them. Generative reproduction takes place by planting new seeds in a suitable substrate. Vegetative methods include cuttings. To do this, cut off the upper part of the stem of the plant. The stalk must be planted in the soil mixture, watered in a timely manner. The container is covered with foil.

Popular reproduction by children. They are separated with fingers, planted in prepared containers with earth. When the young flowers grow up, they will need to be planted in separate pots. Whiskers are common. The algorithm of actions is simple: from the ends of the shoots, the child processes are removed - the mustache. They must be planted in moist soil, if you managed to take them along with the roots. If the sample is taken without roots, the antennae are rooted, as in cuttings.

Secrets of experienced flower growers

If you want your indoor plants to grow beautiful and healthy, it is worth adopting a few secrets of experienced flower growers.

• If your houses grow ornamental plants and you notice that their leaf blades have faded, it will be possible to return them to their previous appearance with the help of a decoction cooked on a banana peel.
• If you decide to plant a capricious plant at home that requires more complex professional care, it can be slightly protected from pests by transplanting into the soil, in which there are 4 match heads.
• If indoor plants suffer from a dangerous scale insect or spider mite."ambulance" will be a soap solution (a simple laundry soap), diluted with a few drops of medical alcohol. After processing according to this scheme, the landing is not touched for another day.
• Spraying the plant will be an excellent prevention of the appearance of a red spider mite. This procedure gives the plants more. Rather than simple air humidification.
• By trimming indoor plants, it is always necessary to remove too long branches and old stems that no longer have leaf plates.
• If you decide to grow bright tropical plants at home, they will need to provide conditions that will be as close to natural as possible.

For any houseplant, the correctness or incorrectness of care is almost always associated with the quality of watering. The ability to find a balance, to approach the process of soil moisture reasonably, not to go to extremes and “listen” to the plants is the main rule of correct watering. But not the only one. After all, finding a middle ground between scarce and excessive watering is not at all easy. The basic rules for watering indoor plants will help you avoid major mistakes with this important procedure. Let's get to know them better.

1. Quality watering starts with water quality

Houseplants should not be watered with water with unverified characteristics, especially tap water, not settled, cold or hot. The water temperature must match the air temperature in the room. It is necessary to defend it before watering for at least 2-3 days.

The ideal option is melted, rain (subject to a favorable environmental situation) or filtered "drinking" water. It is better not to water indoor plants with boiled water (with rare exceptions), and mineralization is generally strictly prohibited. Some plants may need distilled water.

2. Watering should be carried out only when they are needed.

Checking the degree of drying of the substrate and controlling the rate of moisture consumption by the plant at different stages of development will help to avoid gross mistakes with watering. Whatever the standard recommendations, you need to judge the need for watering only by the soil.

Before taking on a watering can, it is worth checking whether the plant needs watering:

• Check the moisture content of the top layer of the substrate (surface and at a depth of 1 to 2 cm, lightly rubbing the earth between your fingers;
• Compare whether the pot has become lighter (the weight of the pot before and after watering is significantly different).

3. No watering for everyone at once!

Setting aside a specific day/days of the week for watering and watering all the plants at the same time indiscriminately is the biggest mistake. It's definitely more convenient that way. But indoor plants are all different, and it is also worth watering them at different times.

Indoor plants can be grouped according to the degree of moisture-loving (hygrophilous, moderately moisture-loving or drought-resistant) and even by origin (desert, subtropical, tropical). But it's best to check individual variety and species recommendations and draw up a schedule for each plant.

A good strategy is to keep simple records or spreadsheets, or use pot tags and tags with information about:

• with what frequency and abundance it is necessary to water the plant at different stages of development;
• how much water can be left in the trays;
• what should be the water.

Always highlight with special "markers" plants that are watered through pallets, by wicking, by pouring water into leaf funnels or by immersion.

Indoor plants can be grouped according to the degree of moisture-loving (hygrophilous, moderately moisture-loving or drought-resistant). © uhc

4. Extremes are unacceptable

Drought and waterlogging are two poles in determining improper watering. Both are considered invalid. The substrate for any houseplant should not be wet in the upper 2-3 cm for longer than a few minutes after watering.

Even for moisture-loving species, the top layer of the substrate should be allowed to dry until the next watering. And for plants that are drought-resistant and require minimal watering, it is not worth bringing the matter to the complete drying of the substrate at the bottom of the pot (except for bulbous and tuberous plants that winter in complete dryness, and cacti that can withstand dryness).

Emergencies, including departures, happen to all flower growers. But if regular care is careless, allow constant overflows or underfill plants, then you should not expect health and beauty from them.

In watering indoor plants, one rule always works: not topping up a little is always better than overdoing it with the amount of water.

5. Frequency and Abundance of Watering Are Equally Important

Watering is frequent (daily or every other day), medium or moderately frequent (every 2-3 days) and rare (no more than once a week). But in addition to frequency, the quality of soil wetting is also important for all indoor plants.

How much the substrate will be saturated with water - the abundance of irrigation - is determined by a few upper centimeters of soil. Abundant or generous watering immediately makes the soil very wet, after a couple of minutes - damp, and only after a while - wet.

With standard moderate watering the soil is never wet: after sputum, it should become evenly moist in a couple of minutes. And light waterings are those in which the soil with a little damp immediately becomes wet.

Determine the degree of humidity tactilely:

• wet soil “drips”, when the substrate is compressed, drops of water appear;
• damp soil is easily crumpled and sticky;
• wet rolls, wrinkles, but does not stick to the hand;
• dry - crumbles when squeezed.

Any watering is considered correct only when the amount of water allows you to wet the entire earthen lump evenly, to the very lower layers- so that a little water stands out from the drainage holes not immediately, but some time after watering.

Draining too quickly or no water in the sump, signaling water tightness or the substrate's inability to retain water, is equally undesirable.

For high-quality watering, it is better to divide the water into several passes and observe the impregnation of the earthen clod, giving the water a chance not to pour out immediately, but to be evenly distributed.

For watering, it is advisable to use convenient watering cans with scattering nozzles specially designed for indoor plants. © loveproperty

6. Scattering and being careful is the best watering strategy.

It is impossible to water in one place with a strong jet of water, which compacts and erodes the substrate. For watering, it is advisable to use convenient watering cans with scattering nozzles specially designed for indoor plants. You need to direct the water along the perimeter of the pot, low, avoiding the formation of pits, slowly, without "puddles" and accumulation of water above the soil.

Particular attention should be paid to accuracy: not all houseplants are sensitive to getting wet, but none will thank you for its decorative effect when watered carelessly. Water should not be directed to the trunks and under the roots, to the root collars and growth points, to soak and splash the leaves.

With signs of soil compaction, crusting, poor soaking of the substrate, you should immediately take care of loosening. In case of severe contamination or mold, change the topsoil.

7. Watering should not be done in the middle of the day.

Indoor plants are best watered in the early morning or evening during the warm season and only in the early morning during cold seasons. Watering can not be carried out under direct sun, at the height of the day.

8. Water should not stagnate in pans

Even for plants that require immersion or drip irrigation, the amount of time water should be left in an external container should be limited. With classic top watering, any remaining water in the pans should be drained after 5-8 minutes.

Even 10 minutes of water stagnation in the lower part of the substrate and oversaturation of drainage with water can lead to the onset of negative processes for rot-sensitive species.

9. Correction of watering at the slightest change

Watering rarely manages to be carried out with an established frequency. If the weather is hot, heating works harder, air humidity drops, the plant is actively developing, watering needs to be increased. But not in abundance, but in frequency, compensating for all factors.

It should always be remembered that numerous other factors influence the irrigation schedule:

• pot size (the larger the container, the less often watering should be);
• pot materials (plants in ceramic containers are watered more abundantly);
• leaf size and density;
• location in the room and frequency of ventilation;
• air humidity level;
• the degree of filling of the substrate with roots;
• drafts, etc.

The simplest and most affordable flasks for automatic watering will reduce watering efforts to a minimum. © Any Phone Case lawn-drippers

10. Using smart assistants

Today, both budget and elite systems have been developed for indoor plants to avoid difficulties with watering. The simplest and most affordable indicators, self-watering flasks, double-walled containers, hydroponic installations will reduce watering efforts to a minimum.

Even a simple moisture level indicator will eliminate the need to constantly check the soil by touch. And if there are difficulties with determining whether the plant needs watering or it is better to wait, be sure to get such smart helpers.