Installation of steel entrance doors. Do-it-yourself installation of an entrance metal door: instructions, photos, videos. Installation of entrance metal doors: video

Particularly resistant and durable, indestructible steel doors are steadily replacing their wooden and chipboard counterparts from all areas of the modern construction industry. Massive and strong, metal doors reliably protect housing from unauthorized intrusions, and therefore our compatriots willingly put them in their city apartments and private country houses, and often, in order to save money, they prefer to do it with their own hands. In fact self-installation an entrance steel door is not a problem for a person who sufficiently possesses the necessary building skills, but for inexperienced beginners, the step-by-step instructions in our article will help to cope with this work correctly, performing particularly complex actions can be mastered with the help of a video.

How to install an entrance steel door: instructions

All work on the installation of an entrance steel door is divided into 3 standard basic stages:

preparatory operations, including the selection of tools, dismantling old door and preparation of the doorway;
installation work - installation and fastening of the door frame, hanging the door;
finishing procedures, which include checking and debugging the operation of locks, adjusting the course of the door leaf, closing technological gaps.

Advice! The metal door block is bulky and very heavy, so you will definitely need a dexterous muscular assistant to install it.

Stage 1 - preparation

Step 1. Selection of materials and tools.

For work you will need:

perforator or powerful hammer drill, equipped with nozzles "drill" and "chisel";
angle grinder (grinder);
plumb and building level;
sledgehammer and hammer;
tape measure and marking pencil;
medium-sized crowbar or large nail puller;
an ax, a hacksaw for wood and a piece of board;
several cylinders polyurethane foam or high grade cement mortar.

Step 2. Dismantling the old door.

1. Remove the old door leaf from the hinges. If this cannot be done for some reason, unscrew the screws that fasten the hinges to the hatch and remove the door along with the awnings.

2. In several places, cut the bars of the old door frame with a grinder or a hacksaw, pry the side racks with a crowbar and, carefully, so as not to damage the wall, tear them off the brick or concrete base.

3. Remove the top beam and threshold in the same way.

Step 3. Opening preparation.

1. After the box is removed from the doorway, pull the remaining nails from the walls with a nail puller or tongs.

2. Remove pieces thermal insulation material(if it was laid between the loot and the wall).

3. Carefully beat the plaster down to the base of the walls (if there are wooden chops in them, pull them out and seal the holes with mortar).

4. Try on the door block to the prepared opening.

Important! In the event that the initial measurements were made correctly, the door frame made in accordance with them should freely enter the opening so that technological gaps of 20-25 mm remain on each side between its beams and walls.

If the block entered the opening properly, you will not need to follow the next paragraph of the instruction.

5. When an employee of the manufacturer made a mistake with the calculations, and the box turned out to be too large or small for your doorway, you will have to work harder and expand or reduce it accordingly.

6. To increase the size of the opening, beat the excess wall with a perforator, to reduce it, increase the missing volume with high-quality concrete mortar.

Stage 2 - installation work

Step 1 Mounting the box.

1. Together with an assistant, insert a new metal box(without door leaf) into the prepared opening. To prevent the block from falling out of the hole in the wall, first fix it with wooden wedges. Cut the wedges in advance and insert them with a little effort at 20 cm intervals around the entire perimeter of the box.

2. Level and plumb, in all available planes, as carefully as possible, check the verticality of the loot. If a discrepancy is found, loosen or drive the wedges deeper, thereby shifting the box in the right direction.

3. When the desired result is achieved, fix all the wedges as rigidly as possible so that the loot does not move during the drilling of mounting holes in the walls, and once again make sure that it is vertical.

Important! If the manufacturer did not make holes for the bolts in the frame of your new door to save money, drill them yourself before you start installing the frame. The standard number of holes is 3 pcs. on vertical racks and 2 on horizontal racks.

4. Through the mounting holes in the hinge jamb, drill holes in the walls for anchor bolts. Start drilling from the top of the jamb, for drilling use a suitable length and diameter drill bit.

If included with your inexpensive doors mounting hardware is not included, please purchase 150mm anchor bolts with a diameter of 12-15mm yourself.
Insert the anchors into the prepared nests and tighten them.

Step 2. Hanging the door.

5. After lubricating the hinges, temporarily hang the door on the jamb. Check the course of the canvas - it should not mow and close spontaneously. If the door moves gently, turns in hinges without applying significant effort, then the box is set correctly and it can be fixed further.

6. To do this, remove the door from the canopies, drill holes in the opposite wall in the same way and fix the rack with the striker in it, then fix the threshold and at the end - the lintel.

7. Close the anchor heads with decorative caps and finally hang the door leaf.

Stage 3 - finishing

Step 1. Adjusting the locks, checking and adjusting the door travel.

1. Install all supplied hardware on the door.

2. Open the door to 45, and then to 90 * - in such positions, it should not spontaneously move from its place.

3. Latch the door and check if there is any play in this state.

4. Check the gaps between the uprights and the door leaf - according to the rules, they should not exceed 4 mm.

5. Check the softness of the lock mechanisms, eliminate possible problems by moving the counter plates located on the locking column of the box.

Step 2. Closing technological gaps.

1. Paste the door frame with masking tape, pull the door leaf with a protective film.

After installing the door, the threshold and walls are closed with decorative platbands

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

It's no secret that the installation entrance doors with your own hands is not only a complex, but also a laborious process that requires not only personal participation, but also the presence of a physically strong enough assistant, since it will not be easy to mount a multi-kilogram steel door alone.

Dismantling the old iron door

Having found an assistant and having studied how to install the front door with your own hands, at least theoretically, you can proceed to the first stage, which consists either in dismantling the old iron door, if you are going to replace it, or in the maximum adjustment of the size of the opening to the dimensions of the purchased door, if the entrance is equipped with new apartment or house. In the first case, first the door is separated from the box, as in the video below (with detachable hinges, this is done with a crowbar, having previously opened it 90 degrees, with one-piece ones, a screwdriver is used), and then the box itself is dismantled. If it is metal, then you may have to use a “grinder” to cut it. In the second case, with the help of bricks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete, the opening is reduced to the size of the box along with the doors, leaving technological gaps for their alignment.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the front door

Then they proceed to the actual installation of the input metal door. It is inserted into the opening, and while one of the workers holds it, using the level, in the desired position, the second marks the places for the anchor screws - they perform the function of guaranteeing the reliability and strength of the door.

The photo of the installation of the entrance doors shows how in drilled holes(sometimes they are prepared by the manufacturer) anchors are inserted, and they are fastened first from the side of the loops, and then, from the opposite side. It is no coincidence that this part of the process is considered the most difficult and time-consuming. Using the level, once again check the correct orientation of the product in geometric planes.

With the help of the video attached to the article, the installation of entrance doors is undoubtedly easier to carry out. So, you should pay attention to how in the photo with the help of polyurethane sealant (mounting foam) the space between the opening and the door frame is qualitatively sealed. To avoid deformation of the door frame when the foam solidifies, sealing is carried out when closed door. It is better to close the space below not with foam, but cement mortar, since it, due to the constant loads from the legs of the incoming ones, will completely collapse in a couple of months. After sealing, it is worth leaving the door closed for 5-6 hours without touching it.

After that, you can proceed to a very important stage - adjustment. When installing steel entrance doors with your own hands, it is imperative to provide for this important procedure, since the presence of canvas distortions, even minor ones, in relation to door frame will negatively affect the operation of all locking mechanisms, which means it leads to premature failure of the product. Adjustment is made using screws located in a triangle on each of the door hinges. By loosening the screws and tightening them, they achieve clearances within the normal range. First, the gap on the hinge side is adjusted.

A properly installed and adjusted door will save its owner from the premature hassle of repairing or even replacing it and the associated costs.

Entrance doors are a key element of the security of our apartments and houses. In addition, they are the first to be seen by others. It is important that the entrance doors at the same time meet such characteristics and requirements as: reliability, strength, aesthetic appearance, convenience, thermal insulation and sound insulation. And all these characteristics depend not only on the quality and type of door leaf and door frame, but also on correct installation. No matter how good the door is, however, inept installation can completely cross out all its good sides. Below we will consider detailed instructions about how to put the door with your own hands qualitatively and reliably. At the same time, we will try to consider as widely as possible installation options. various designs entrance doors.

Preparing for work, the necessary tool

Even when choosing a door, you should carefully consider the measurements. To order a door, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions of the doorway. The difficulty lies in the presence of a door frame (ludka) and a thick layer of mortar around the entire perimeter. Determining the actual size is sometimes a problem, because there is no clear boundary for the end of the opening. As a result, it is taken into account that nothing should remain in the lower part up to the base of the floor. If there are thresholds or the boat is very raised, then at the time of dismantling all this will be removed. The upper part of the opening never expands, that is, it does not rise. Sides can be slightly expanded if necessary, however, the width of the support beam, which marks the upper edge of the opening, should be taken into account. As a result, the door should be 20-25 mm narrower on each side. In other words, the door frame of the new door should be 40-50 mm less than the total width of the opening and also lower.

To carry out work on the installation of the front door, you will need the following tools:

puncher or impact drill with a drill and a shovel;
level;
roulette;
hammer and sledgehammer;
angle grinder (grinder);
a wooden board, an ax and a saw for forming pegs.

Choice necessary materials differs depending on what will fill the gap between the door frame and the walls. It can be mounting foam or cement mortar.

Anchors or metal rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm are also required to fix the front door.

Video: the nuances of installing the front door

Work order

Whatever the door in terms of design or material, the installation process will be similar, with only a few nuances in each individual case. If new door is separated from the main box, then before installation it should be removed and set aside for the time of fixing the box. It is advisable to paste over the entire perimeter of the box and the door with masking tape if there is no protective film on it.

If , then before installation it is necessary to fill out inner part boxes with cement mortar or polyurethane foam. Until the moment of direct installation, the filling will have time to grab or dry and it will be possible to remove the excess.

Typical structure and equipment of the front door

Opening preparation

When dismantling the old door, you should not be particularly careful, it is only important not to damage the walls, especially if they are made of foam concrete or this is an old brick building. The door leaf is removed from the hinges or the hinges are unscrewed from the boat. With the help of a grinder or a saw, several cuts are made around the perimeter of the door frame and, with the help of a crowbar, it is removed from the opening.

Using a perforator, the opening is cleaned from excess mortar and plaster around the entire perimeter. Particular attention should be paid to the bottom of the opening. As a result, the door must be mounted flush with the floors in the hallway or corridor, and this parameter depends on whether the screed will still be formed or not. Moreover, in the vacated opening under the old door, a wooden beam or brickwork which has fallen into disrepair over time. All this must be cleaned and removed, and instead, if necessary, form a substrate of bricks or the same wooden beam required height.

Main installation step

From this stage, the help of a second person will be needed, especially if an iron door is being installed. It is necessary to put the box from the new front door into the opening and, using a level, check the possibility of installing it strictly vertically. It should be checked in all planes, preferably in several places. For example, put a level in a vertical rack from the inner end and from one of the adjacent sides, put the level on the lower partition. As a result, the corresponding level indicators should show a strong level match. If any part of the doorway interferes with leveling, then it is necessary to comb the ledge.

If everything is fine, then the position of the box is fixed with wooden pegs. For this purpose, it is better to use two linings per place. One lining is made with an even thickness 5 mm less than the gap, and the second is in the form of a wedge, while the second part is much longer than the first and is made with a small bevel angle. Thus, the process of adjusting the box to the level is facilitated.

Advice: It is better to abandon the old-fashioned method and not fix the door first with nails. In this case, it is very likely that the door frame will move.

After the door is clearly set to the level, you can begin to secure it. To do this, you can use several various options. It all depends on the design of the door and a little on the material from which it is made. Attachment points should be three on the sides and two on the top and bottom. This is at least.

Initially, the side on which the hinges for the door are located is fixed, starting from the top point. After each fixing, it is better to check the correctness of the installation with a level. After this part is fixed, you can hang the door leaf and adjust the position of the door frame, and also check that the frame is not deformed and there are no excessive tensions.

After that, you can again remove the door leaf and proceed to fix the other side and both vertical lintels of the door frame. Again, adjusting their actions, if necessary, observing the level in both planes.

So, how to fix the door frame:

Anchor or pin fastening for eyes. This fastening is most often found on doors of any type. In metal, they are an integral part of the box design. At wooden and plastic doors most often attached with screws.

A hole 10-15 cm deep is made through the hole in the eye using a perforator with a drill. An anchor bolt or a pre-prepared pin is inserted into the hole. The pin is a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm, in which one edge is slightly flattened with a hammer to form a head, and the second is pointed. Fasteners are driven all the way into the hole. The anchor bolt is tightened with a socket wrench. If a pin is used, it is welded to the eye.

Anchor or pin fastening through the door frame leaf. Actually, everything is repeated, as in the first version, only holes for fasteners are made directly at the end of the door frame.

At a wooden door, it is also necessary to prudently drill a recess with a large drill, where the head of the anchor bolt or the flattened edge of the pin will be hidden.

Fastening type capture. Such a mount is suitable in the case of a metal door. In this case, the door frame is held by the outer edge behind the doorway, and a hook is welded from the inside, which holds on to the inside of the wall. This option is suitable for apartments and houses with monolithic walls and allows you to put the front door without drilling and drilling holes in the walls.

Completing the installation

When the door frame is fixed, the door leaf is hung and its operation is finally checked. To do this, the door opens first at 45 degrees, and then at 90. In these positions, it should not move spontaneously. When closed, there should be no backlash. If everything is fine, then it's time to start sealing the gap between the door frame and the wall. Filling with foam will speed up and facilitate this process. Only here the strength of the mounting foam may not be enough, and this will affect the burglary resistance of the entire structure. It is best to use a cement mortar with the addition of alabaster. The entire gap is densely filled with the solution. By hand, this will turn out much more efficiently than with a trowel or spatula. The solution to fill the space is prepared so that it does not float. It is desirable to bring it to the state of a loose, similar to curd mass, solution.

Be sure to check the operation of the locks and, if necessary, adjust the counterparts located on the door frame, if this option is present in the design. A sealing rubber tape is carefully glued around the perimeter of the door.

After a day, you can remove the protective film and the masking tape pasted over earlier. It remains only if necessary to hang trim on the outside of the doorway. On wooden door they are screwed with self-tapping screws with a hidden head. For reliability and safety, it is better to drown the heads of the self-tapping screws into the platband wood and cover it with wood putty.

In the case of a metal door, the platbands are reinforced with rivets or bolts.

In fact, this is the end of the installation process of the front door. After that, it is necessary to build slopes with which to hide the door attachment points and give a normal aesthetic appearance to the inside of the doorway.

Video instruction for installing a metal door

Installing the front door to an apartment is a task that many people face when planning to replace it. There are two solutions: pay for the installation of doors in the same store or company where you purchase it, or install new doors yourself.

This article specific example do-it-yourself front door installation showing that with a couple of hours of free time, desire, and a minimum of tools, this task is within the power of many ..

During the repair of the corridor, they decided to install a new front door. We decided to buy not ready-made in the store, but to order according to the size of the opening. After reading the ads and reviews, we chose the company. A representative arrived, took measurements, and two weeks later they brought a new insulated metal door. In order to save money, we decided to install the front door ourselves.

Tools

Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool that will come in handy in the future.

We will need:

mount;
perforator;
drill with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 150 mm;
hammer;
level;
grinder with a disk for metal;
mounting foam;
spray bottle with water;
dowel-nails (in our case, 120 mm long and 10 mm in diameter);
hacksaw for metal;
masking tape (if there is no protective film);
screwdriver;
Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
expansion wedges.

Do not neglect protective equipment. Be sure to wear gloves, and when working with a grinder and a perforator, we put on glasses.

Dismantling the old door

With the help of the mount, we dismantle the cashing, if any. Having opened the door leaf by about 90 °, we slip a mount under it, closer to the side with hinges and, lifting it, remove it. If the hinges are skewed or they are rusted and do not pull off, you can try to unscrew them with a screwdriver or with a screwdriver. Also, the loops can simply be cut with a grinder.

We saw one of the racks of the box with a hacksaw, and dismantle it using a mount. We have the upper crossbar of the box stretched behind the upper part of the side pillar, and the threshold behind the lower one. At the end, we dismantle the remaining rack.

It is advisable to unscrew or pull out all fasteners. If this is not possible, cut them with a grinder or a hacksaw, and hammer the protruding parts back into the wall. Remove loose plaster from the walls along the perimeter of the opening and clean the floor surface from debris.

Installation of a new entrance door in the apartment

We insert a box into the opening, we have it monolithic, having previously removed the door leaf from it. Let's level it up. First, we apply the level to the side stand, on which the loops are located, along the front and inside. We used a magnetic level. They are comfortable working with metal structures, since both hands remain free. The length should be from 400 to 800 mm. A smaller length level can give an error, and a longer length is not convenient to work with. In addition, with a level longer than 800 mm, it will be problematic to set the horizontal, because. usually the width of the door leaf at the door in the apartment is 900 mm.

Installing the box on the level.

If necessary, to achieve a level, we hammer wedges between the wall and the box, or the floor and the box. Since we had a wooden frame of the old door, we did not prepare wedges in advance, but made them out of it.

We use wooden wedges of the right size.

Having reached the desired verticality and horizontality, we fix the box on the mounting plate located at the top hinge. To do this, using a perforator, we make a hole in the wall and hammer a dowel-nail into it.

We hang the door

It is advisable to immediately lubricate the hinges with machine oil. Re-check the level. If necessary, knock out additional wedges.

After making sure that everything is in order, we fix the rack with hinges on the remaining mounting plates.

We close the door. Align the side stand from the side of the lock. We make sure that the gap between the door leaf and the rack along the entire height is uniform. To do this, we shift the rack until we get the desired result. We check that the locks open and close freely. We fix the rack on the mounting plates by making holes in the wall with a perforator and hammering in the dowel-nails.

We moisten with a spray gun the gap between the wall and the box around the entire perimeter. Let the water soak in.

Fill the gap with foam. If there is no experience with foam and the front door frame is not protected by a film, then it is better to paste over it around the perimeter with masking tape so as not to stain it with foam.

Close the door and let the foam dry for 24 hours. On this we can consider the installation of the front door to the apartment finished. In the future, we finish the slopes of the front door with plaster, drywall or panels.

Doors can be different, interior or entrance, wooden or metal, simple and equipped with various additional automatic systems. And in each case, the installation of doors of appropriate complexity must be carried out.

Door manufacturers usually install the doors themselves, provide a guarantee for the work performed, and, of course, charge a certain fee for this.

Naturally, the installation of doors involves the involvement of a team of professionals, but at the same time, the work can be done independently. Knowing the installation rules interior doors, and the nuances of installing a metal door, the whole procedure can be done together in 3-4 hours.

For those who choose the latter option, consider how to install a metal front door with your own hands.

Nuance. As a rule, the manufacturer does not provide a guarantee for a door that is installed by third parties, and also does not perform its adjustment.

Installation of entrance metal doors - instructions

1. Preparatory stage

Door installation tool

The set of tools required for work is shown in the photo.

As you can see, there is no need for a highly specialized professional tool.

Preparing doors for installation

Preparing the purchased door also does not take much time. It needs to be unpacked and checked for completeness. Check how the lock works and make sure the hinges can be adjusted. To date, only hinged welded handicraft hinges are unregulated.

Advice. If the door does not have a protective film, it is recommended to protect it with a plastic film and stick masking tape on the door frame.

Preparing a place for installing doors

Preparation of the installation site involves the removal of furniture from the place of work, the removal of the floor covering or its protection, the removal of the plinth, protection of design elements from dust. In addition, it is worth immediately deciding in which direction the door should open and take into account the required gap size. In order to further flooring did not interfere with the operation of the door.

2. Dismantling the old front door

For a new building, this stage is not relevant, but when replacing the entrance iron doors in an apartment or a private house, it should be taken with all responsibility.

Dismantling a metal door takes no more than an hour and is divided into two components:

dismantling of the door leaf. If the door is installed on non-separable hinges, then it can be removed by opening and lifting it up. The door slides off the hinges easily. Given the weight of a metal door, a crowbar may be needed. If the hinges are collapsible, then they need to be disassembled using a screwdriver;

dismantling the door frame (metal or wood). It happens that the door frame for a metal door is wooden, then you need to unscrew all the anchors and remove individual parts from the doorway. You may have to cut the wood into pieces and take them out with a crowbar. Most often, the front door is installed in a metal box. Then you need to cut the mounting rods and remove the box. And then eliminate all surface irregularities, remove unnecessary plaster and remove dust.

3. Preparing the doorway for the front door

This stage is also different from the installation of interior doors. And it has several features:

The entrance metal door cannot be cut. Usually the door leaf is sold in standard sizes with a step of 100 mm. Naturally, it cannot be cut without violating the integrity and appearance. Therefore, to install the door, you need to change the parameters of the opening. The standard width of the doorway of the front door (metal) is 86-96 cm (according to fire safety standards). In such an opening it is convenient to bring furniture into the house, household appliances and so on. As a rule, most of the manufactured entrance doors have this width, so you can simply pick up the door.

To reduce the opening, you can install a metal frame from a channel or square. The scheme for installing an entrance metal door in a wide opening is shown in the figure.

The disadvantage of this method is the appearance of cold bridges. They can be eliminated by arranging and insulating slopes.

To expand the opening, you need to cut down part of the wall. To do this, use the grinder. In a house cast from concrete, it is much more difficult to perform such work. Therefore, it is better to calculate the required width even before buying a door leaf.

Advice. Do not use impact methods to expand the opening, this may lead to cracking of the supporting structure of the building.

The entrance metal door is heavier. The optimal thickness of the metal for the front door is 2-3 mm. A thinner sheet can be cut with improvised means. So, it can not be installed in any opening. So, for example, the wall of a brick house or a house built from hollow blocks does not have sufficient strength to withstand the weight of a metal door. In this case, a monolithic concrete portal is cast for the front door, which is connected with reinforcement to the wall. And already a door frame is mounted in it.

The thickness of the door frame exceeds the thickness of the wall. According to GOST 31173-2003 "Steel door blocks", the box cannot be installed in a wall whose thickness is less than 150 mm. In this case, you need to think about thickening the wall.

The load on the floor increases. To do this, the strength of the floor covering is checked in the doorway. If a wooden beam or brick was previously used during installation, it is better to remove them, and clean the place and pour concrete. For a lighter door, you can lay a new brick or an antiseptic-treated timber made of durable wood.

At the same stage, communication is arranged. For example, lighting, doorbell, etc.

4. Installing the door block in the opening

There are several ways to install a door block with your own hands.

The technology for installing door blocks - the diagrams are shown in the figure.

The choice of a particular option depends on the features and weight of the front door. For understanding, we briefly describe each method.

Method 1 - installing a door block using mounting plates (lugs)

Schemes 1-3 in the figure. The most popular of the mounting methods, because. many growers and shrubs make door frames with protruding lugs. Usually there are three of them on each side rack. The box is installed so that the plates are adjacent to the outer part of the wall. And the technological gap between the door frame and the wall was 10-20 mm.

A hole is drilled in the wall. Its depth depends on the thickness of the wall and should be 2/3, but not less than 100 mm. Further, through the hole in the eye, anchor or plumbing bolts are inserted, which are tightened with keys. Quite often, reinforcement is inserted into the eyes. A rod thickness of 12-15 mm is sufficient.

Advice. With hollow walls, anchor bolts are not used, and the length of the pin must be increased to 500 mm.

For reliable fastening, the pin is splashed (to form a hat) or welded to the eye.

Advice. To make it easier to start the reinforcing pin, you can sharpen one end of it.

The scheme of installation through the eyes is shown in the photo.

Advice. When installing the door, it is better to orient the eyes inside the room. This will protect yourself from cutting the door.

Method 2 - installing the door block through the door frame (box)

Scheme 4 in the figure above or drawing in the figure below.

It is used if the door is installed in the opening with the device of internal and external slopes. In this case, the wall thickness must be at least 150 mm to avoid internal damage.

For installation door block in this way, holes with a depth of 100-150 mm are drilled through the mounting holes in the metal of the door frame. An anchor bolt is inserted into them and tightened with a key, or reinforcement is started. If holes in the door are not provided, they are drilled with a drill. The value of the technological gap between the wall and the door frame is 5-10 mm.

Advice. When installing the door in this way, take care to protect the door covering. Powder coating can be painted over, while polymer coating cannot be restored.

The installation diagram of the door block through the box (door frame) is shown in the photo.

Method 3 - installing the door block by concreting the door frame

The newest of the existing, but has already found its supporters. It provides for concreting the door frame, as shown in the diagram.

The essence of the method is that a hollow door frame is used in which a concrete solution is placed.

The installed box is leveled using a level, anchored (fixed) in the wall using anchors and left until the mortar has completely hardened.

Installation of an entrance metal door - rules

The choice of one method or another does not mean that the metal front door will be installed correctly. When performing installation, you must adhere to the following sequence of work with the obligatory use of a building level or plumb line.

measure the width of the door in three places (top, bottom, middle);

install the door frame strictly according to the level. This will avoid distortions in the future. Initially fix the door against the wall using wedges. This will help to easily and timely adjust its position. In this case, it is recommended to place the wedges as close as possible to the corners so as not to damage the cover of the box;

Advice. The vertical must be checked from the outside and from the inside of the box.

drill holes in the wall. The dimensions of the holes must correspond to the dimensions of the fasteners;

insert pins or bolts into the holes and securely fasten them;

ensure a tight fit of the threshold to the floor. After all, it will have the greatest load;

install door hinges, lubricate them, remove unnecessary (extra) grease.

5. Hanging the entrance metal door

The door must be installed with the necessary clearances. The size of the door gaps in the door frame is constant around the entire perimeter. This will ensure the normal functioning of all locking mechanisms and hinges.

After the door is installed, the ease of opening it is checked and the hinges are adjusted. We'll show you how to do it right.

How to adjust the hinges on the front door

To adjust the door hinges, you need to release all the fasteners on the middle hinge, and leave one tightened on the bottom and top hinges.

If the gap exceeds the norm from above, then it is necessary to loosen the fasteners on the lower hinge. Once the door leaf is in place correctly, you need to secure the loose screw on the top hinge and then the rest of the screws on the bottom hinge. After that, the screws are fixed on the upper hinge and lastly on the middle one.

Advice. You can check the quality of the installation of the front door as follows. Put a sheet of paper on the threshold or counter and close the door. Pull on the sheet. It should pull out with some effort.

6. Filling technological gaps with foam

Before you start filling the gaps between the door frame and the wall with foam, many professionals advise to remove the door leaf to prevent foam from getting on it. However, the masters advise to close it with a film and blow out the openings with the door closed. This will allow you not to overdo it with foam, which can even inflate a metal box.

Advice. With a significant gap between the wall and the box, it is better to seal them with foam, and only then foam them.

During the day, the foam will solidify completely and it will be possible to cut it off. If wooden wedges protrude, it is recommended to cut them off and in no case hammer them. This can lead to deformation of the door frame, which is eliminated only by performing work again.

Advice. The threshold should not be blown with foam. It collapses from constant stress. It is better to seal the base and cracks with concrete.

Installation of entrance metal doors - video instruction

7. Decorative design of the entrance metal door and opening

It includes the design (finishing) of slopes, fastening of trim, installation of a door closer, etc.

8. Caring for the entrance metal door

Right installed door made of metal does not need maintenance, lubrication. Therefore, all care comes down to careful operation and care of the door leaf from the inside:

for powder coating, you can use aggressive detergents;

when trimmed with vinyl leather and MDF panels, it is better to use a damp cloth without chemicals;

when decorating with a laminate, you can use any type of care, the main thing is to wipe the door dry;

when using veneer in door trim, it is better to use special wood polishes for cleaning;

a soft cloth is used to clean the handles and locks, and the moving part of the lock is periodically lubricated with technical petroleum jelly.

Conclusion

This manual contains all the nuances of installing an entrance metal door. Adhering to the above recommendations, everyone will be able to perform the correct installation of the iron door with their own hands.