Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house and summer cottage. Drainage device around the house - we are fighting groundwater Install a drainage system under the house

drainage system around the house with your own hands - design instructions

Are you designing a house and thinking about installing a drainage system around it at the same time? Or maybe the house has been ready for a long time, but the dampness in the basement violates the harmony and comfort in your home? In both cases - necessary measure which should not be forgotten. a bunch of. Let us consider in more detail how to lay communications with your own hands to remove moisture around the house.

How to make a foundation with your own hands

Drainage is a system of pipes laid under a slope in special trenches and equipped with revision wells. Excess moisture from the soil, accumulating in perforated pipes, flows by gravity into the storage well.

We design a drainage system

The efficiency of the entire system depends on the accuracy of its design. Therefore, it is worth paying due attention to this stage of preparation.

The drainage system project begins with geological studies: determining the type of soil, the maximum level of groundwater, the highest and lowest points of the site. The entire plot is applied to the plan, indicating the trees, structures, the building itself on a scale. You can use checkered paper or a graphic editor. Drains will be laid along the perimeter of the house (at a distance of no more than 1 meter and at a depth - just below the level of laying the foundation, the optimal slope of the trenches is 3 cm per 1 running meter), but should be located at the lowest point of the site. Following this rule, we indicate on the drawing the laying of pipes, places for installing inspection / rotary wells and a discharge point (rotary wells should be located at each pipe turn, inspection wells - every 30-40 meters on straight sections of the pipeline).

We select drainage pipes and prepare for earthworks

So, the plan has been drawn up, it's time to start acquiring materials for the drainage system around the house.

Pipes for drainage systems are produced from: plastic (with a smooth wall or corrugated), "Perfokor" (pipes made of plastic with mineral additives), asbestos cement, ceramics. The pipes have different diameters and stiffness classes; filters can be additionally built in to prevent clogging of the perforations. Pipes Ø100-110 mm are suitable for drainage, while the lower the level of drain laying, the stronger the material should be.

Flexible plastic pipes it is not recommended to use for drainage due to the difficulty of maintaining an accurate slope and possible deposits of silt in places of slight bends during operation. Drains can be made with your own hands from smooth-walled orange plastic sewer pipes by simply drilling a sufficient number of holes in the walls.

Do not forget to purchase other materials for arranging the drainage system: fittings (tees, adapters, couplings, plugs), material for constructing the walls of manholes (for example, plastic rings or plastic pipes), manhole covers for manholes, silicone sealant, crushed stone, sand, cement, geotextiles (non-woven material that can pass water and retain particles of sand and soil), shovels, building level and tape measure, nylon cord. You will also need a waterproofing compound to cover the foundation.

Earthworks and waterproofing works

Earthworks, which can be done manually or with an excavator, begin with digging a trench along the perimeter of the building, which should be located at a distance of half a meter from the foundation and lie 30 cm below it (at the highest point of the site). From this highest point of the section, the trenches should slope towards the catchment point by at least 1 cm/m.

The walls of the trench can be made rectangular or trapezoidal. The second option is more convenient on loose, crumbling soils. The width of the trenches is taken equal to the diameter of the drainage pipes with a margin of 40-50 cm (for pipes with a diameter of 100 cm, the width of the trench will be about one and a half meters). Check the accuracy of earthworks with beacons or a level stretched along the bottom of the trench.

At each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight sections, it is necessary to dig small pits for manholes. Do not forget to remove sharp stones, large clods of earth and foreign objects from the soil during the digging process, which can damage the drains.

Laying the filter layer and assembling drains

When the trench around the perimeter is dug with the proper slope, the pits for the wells are ready, you can proceed to further steps.

If you have enough geotextile, lay this material at the bottom of the trench (with allowance for the walls). If you saved money and did not purchase geotextiles, then the bottom of the trench should be covered with a ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand. Next, a layer of fine gravel about 10 cm thick should be covered with geotextiles or sand. You can start assembling drains.

If your pipes don't have filters to keep the drains from clogging, wrap them with a single layer of geotextile and secure it with plastic twine.

It is necessary to lay the pipes in the center of the trenches, connecting them into a single closed circuit with fittings and couplings (during assembly, it is advisable to use 2 fittings with 45 ° angles at turns, avoiding fittings with right angles to avoid possible blockages). All joints should be greased silicone sealant. In the event that the holes on the drainage pipes are located only on one side, then the pipes are laid with these holes down. Do not forget to install rotary and manholes, providing them with covers and plugs at the bottom. Set, into which all the water collected in the drains will be discharged. The height of the wells (including the intake well) is selected based on the depth of the trench and the need for easy access to the hatch after landscaping near the house is completed.

After installation work, the pipes should be covered with a layer of crushed stone, after which the edges of the geotextile laid on the bottom at the very beginning should be covered with this filtering layer of backfill (crushed stone is poured just above the lower level of the grillage).

Video - Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house

Ring drainage system around the house

Annular drainage is equipped in cases where the house has already been built and the blind area has been laid. Technologically, there are no main differences between the ring and the wall, with the exception of the following points:

• the trench must be laid along the perimeter of the house at a distance of up to three meters from the foundation, while all the rules of land work, including slope and depth, remain unchanged;
• after laying drains and installing wells, a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone should be covered, wrapped with the free edges of geotextile, and then until zero level fill the soil;
• instead of a blind area, the filled trenches of the annular drainage are covered with a thin layer of gravel (or turf) and decorated like an annular path leading to the spillway point.

How to make linear foundation drainage with your own hands

Linear drainage implies the laying of drainage trays in the area adjacent to the house, and can also be installed around the perimeter of the building (including around front door) to collect and drain surface water. The system of communicating gutters (trays) can be supplemented with point storm water inlets to collect rainwater from the roof and sand traps with connected drainage pipes, through which water will be discharged into a collector well. The system protects the foundation of the building and the blind area from the harmful effects of excessive moisture.

Preparing a linear drainage plan

In a graphic editor or on paper in a cage, we draw a plan of the buildings on the site (top view). Next, we mark the line for laying linear drainage along the perimeter, designate places for installing point storm water inlets, a door grate, a water discharge point (the drainage well should be located at the lowest point of the site).

We buy materials

For work you will need: trowels, shovels, cement, sand, roofing felt or roofing felt, sealant, trays with gratings, sand traps, plugs, drainage pipes, kapron cord, building level, grinder.

Earthworks and installation works

You can step on the drainage trays only after the cement has dried. During operation, the trays should be periodically cleaned with a jet, removing the baskets for collecting debris.

You can learn more about the intricacies of installing a surface drainage system from the video tutorial.

Sandbox prices

sand trap

Video - Surface drainage around the house

Drainage tray installation diagram

Drainage around the house is necessary to protect the buried parts of the building - the basement, the foundation. Underground structures are dangerous from flooding from heavy rains and snowmelt, as well as from high groundwater, especially if groundwater is aggressive to concrete. Protecting a house with a drainage system is one of the first and foremost tasks in a new construction, and when working around an already built house, drainage becomes an extremely difficult and costly undertaking. Reworking unsuccessful drainage or installing it in a landscaped landscape is almost a disaster. Whereas timely, competent drainage around the house will remove excess moisture from the foundation, and thereby increase the service life of both structures and the building as a whole.

Drainage around the house with your own hands

On their own, it is possible to arrange drainage according to the wall and ring (trench) type. The second type of drainage is successful on clay and loam, and of course, if the house does not have a basement, a technical underground, a warm basement, and so on. For example, a house on stilts, because it also needs to be protected from aggressive groundwater. Trench or ring drainage consists of drains directed into water-permeable layers. Crushed stone has good filtration, and the correct slopes of drains are formed by laying them on a stable (carefully compacted) base. All connections and turns of drainage pipes are on special connecting elements, special attention is paid to the waterproofing of pipes and connections. A clay aquiclude is organized around the house for protection. At the same time, the trench ring is separated from the foundation structures by about 1.2 - 3.0 m. This type drainage - protection of the house from flooding and rapid discharge of flood water when its level decreases. In addition, when arranging a trench drainage ring, the groundwater level almost always decreases: the new GWL is much lower and passes under the foundation, which is the purpose of drainage. An important plus is that the ring drainage trench can be used for simultaneous laying storm sewer, subject to the design and calculation.

Approximate stages of the ring drainage device:

• The marking must be accurate, it is best to work with a laser level. The base is prepared after measuring the height difference and installing a control pole at each point in the scheme. Accuracy is needed maximum, up to a millimeter;
• According to the set marks, they are backed up with coarse sand, with layer-by-layer compaction. The slopes of the drains must be uniform, counter-slopes should not be allowed. Water drainage will be gravity flow to the drainage well (receiving ditch, collector, ravine, and so on), and it is best that the “water intake” be away from the house;
• Mandatory pipe protection and phase separation with geotextiles. The fabric needs to be thermally bonded (not needle-punched, which quickly silts up). Filtration clip - from clean, washed crushed stone or gravel. It is also necessary to observe the specified slopes of trenches and pipes. In the backfill filter, a notch is carefully made and a perforated drainage pipe is laid. Flat drainage pipes with additional geotextile protection can become especially effective and economical. A budget option for simple drainage (or an irresponsible building) is a PVC sewer pipe familiar to everyone, and perforation is done with a drill or drill. It is important that the size and shape of the holes be such that gravel or gravel cannot clog them or make it difficult for water to drain from the pipe into the filter;
• Mount pipes with a reliable connection in sections, then once again control the slope. Minimum slope– 20 mm per 1 running meter trenches. The excess is checked with a level, the uniformity of the slope is also checked with a level at control points, it can also be checked by stretching the cord along the pipeline sections;
• All drainage turns are equipped with cleaning - vertical pipe sections built into the drain and protected from water and debris (tight cover). To remove blockages, cleaning is very effective. It is also important to protect the pipe and filter with a continuous geotextile cocoon without the slightest gap, and secure it firmly (with twine, tape, staples). Finished pipes with geofabric and coconut fiber casings are more expensive, but they last longer and have better filtration performance and do not silt much longer;
• The top of the drainage trenches is covered with an overpipe with washed filtering gravel or gravel to a height of 200 mm, then a clip is made, not sparing the overlap geotextile. To do this, along the edge of the trench (when laying under the pipe), a canvas is left with a known margin. The top of the drainage layer - coarse washed sand - is one of the best filters, and without heaving properties.

The completion of the system is a drainage well, made of concrete prepared at the site or purchased - corrugated plastic. The second option when calculating material, time and labor is often more economical. But they are used for the drainage well and reinforced concrete rings, and the walls are concreted along the reinforced mesh. The hatch is cast iron or modern high-strength plastic. All sewer outlets are necessarily insulated, usually expanded polystyrene or a foam clip is used, the thickness of the thermal insulation is from 250 mm.

wall drainage

Wall drainage is relevant in many cases:

• The sole of the foundation is laid below the groundwater level (groundwater level, taking into account seasonal fluctuations);
• The basement floor is not high enough from the groundwater level (a distance of more than 0.5 m is considered safe);
• The base of the plot under the house is composed of clays or loams, strongly heaving soils, which, when saturated with water, are capable of winter time and thaw push the structure out of the ground. At the same time, the height of groundwater practically does not affect the operation of the foundation and the consequences of soil movements;
• Effective and constant capillary moistening of soils under the house;
• When deepening the basement floor by more than 1.25 m, when building on clay and loam.

Arrangement of wall drainage is rational before backfilling the pit, after building the house, this event will be difficult and expensive, and the landscaping will be disturbed - after all, you will have to dig the house along the contour in small sections, taking into account security measures.

Rectangular in plan, the buildings are drained along the perimeter of the base, and each corner drain must have access to a manhole. The lowest, deepest point of the drainage contour is led to a facility for pumping water or, if possible, for spontaneous flow into a ravine, quarry or storm sewer. An old and proven method to additionally protect the foundation is the installation of a clay castle along the contour of the foundation, with a distance of about 0.5-1.0 m from the wall. When saturated with water, many types of clays turn into an effective aquiclude.

Basic requirements for wall drainage:

• Accurate and uniform drain slope - not less than 20 mm / 1 r.m. pipeline;
• The upper point of water intake by the drainage pipe is at the highest in relation to the rest of the corner of the building, and the lower one is the drainage well;
• Each corner joint of the drainage conduit is supplied with a manhole, and straight linear sections must have a manhole for every forty meters of their length;
• Accounting for GPG (depth of soil freezing for a specific construction area - reference value);
• Drainage bottom - no higher than 0.3-0.5 m from the base of the foundation (cushion, backfill);
• Removal of the drainage circuit from the foundation of the floating slab type - from 300 cm;
• Inserting a drainage pipe into a drainage well only with check valve to prevent back flow. The height of the tie-in is 200 mm from the bottom of the well.

Drainage around the house and blind area

It is important to take into account the height of the contour drainage around the house relative to the blind area - they must match.

Any type of drainage is laid to a depth below the lowest foundation structure no less than half a meter. In addition, it is important to understand that the presence of drainage does not in any way cancel the measures for waterproofing foundation structures - depending on the conditions, purpose and financial capabilities, this can be budgetary bitumen-coated and pasted waterproofing, rubber coatings, sprayed insulation and effective expensive membranes. But in any case, the protection of the foundation from water should be comprehensive: waterproofing plus drainage and dewatering.

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If the site is located in a zone of frequent accumulation of moisture, then a drainage system around the house is made without fail. The drainage device will allow you to drain the soil around the perimeter. The constant impact of water on the supporting structures leads to rapid destruction, as the rate of reproduction of microorganisms and fungi increases dramatically.

Preparing a trench for laying pipelines

Drainage system around the house: drainage device in two versions

Channels for water drainage can be laid in two main ways. With an open location, the aesthetic characteristics of the surrounding landscape are violated. Therefore, in most cases, they resort to the device of deep systems, when perforated pipelines are buried in the ground.

Related article:

Benefits of open networks

The advantages of systems with open channels for draining the soil are as follows:

• the withdrawal is superficial, therefore it does not require labor-intensive work;
• when arranging channels are not needed additional elements, which avoids unnecessary costs;
• the system is effective when used on clay soils.

Helpful information! Despite positive traits, open networks are best for drainage around the site. It is not recommended to arrange such systems near residential buildings due to low aesthetic characteristics.

Advantages of deep networks

The main advantage of closed networks is the hidden laying of elements, that is, after some time after the completion of work, no traces remain. You can do landscape design without restrictions. However, such systems are not very efficient in the presence of clay soil located near the surface.

Do-it-yourself ring drainage construction around the house: how to make a reliable system

When a drainage system is arranged around the house with their own hands, several meters recede from the building. At the same time, pipelines of a closed storm sewer can be dug in, which ensures the removal of precipitation from the surface of the roofing and paths.

Do-it-yourself deep drainage device around the house

The process of erecting a closed moisture drainage network is very laborious, as it involves laying pipelines in the ground with subsequent instillation. For work, it is necessary to purchase suitable perforated pipes and geotextiles to protect the surface of the elements from silting.

• The place for the drain well and the location of the pipelines are determined. It is better to dig a hole for drains in the lowest part of the site, so as not to go deep into the ground.
• Digging trenches with a slope of 2 cm towards the well. Their bottom is covered with a sand layer of 10-15 cm. All irregularities made during earthworks are hidden.
• A sheet of geotextile is spread over the sand. Its edges should protrude from the trench in order to make an overlap. The material is cut with a sharp knife.
• A layer of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 15 cm is poured onto the geotextile. It will allow the pipes to be located at a certain distance from the canvas, thereby providing protection from dirt entering the perforation.
• Pipes are laid on a gravel embankment and connected to each other. If there are turns from the interchange, then revision wells must be made in these places.
• The laid pipelines are covered with crushed stone until the layer thickness above the elements is at least 15 cm. This is necessary to protect the side and upper holes in the pipes from silting.
• The edges of the geotextile overlap with a slight overlap. The rest of the trench is covered with ordinary soil.

Note! If you do-it-yourself foundation drainage on clay soils, you can additionally install point devices for collecting water.

Works to create open drainage around a residential building

Open systems are most effective in removing surface water that falls as precipitation. They are ditches with a depth of not more than 50 cm, located along a given trajectory. The perimeter trenches will spoil appearance plot, so their decoration is a must.

The most commonly used materials for decoration are natural stones or sickness. First, large cobblestones are laid at the bottom of the ditches, allowing the formation of channels for the passage of water. Then medium-sized stones or tree branches are laid.

This scheme creates an open drainage system around the house. A drainage device of this type is considered quite economical. During the work, additional elements such as pipes and special membranes are not used. The right decor will allow you to successfully fit the gutters into the overall landscape of the site.

Prices for drainage work around the turnkey house: ready-made option

Those developers who do not want to figure out how to properly drain around the house can hire professional workers. Many firms offer a wide range of services to create various systems from design to implementation. The table shows the prices for the full list of works.

Table 1. Average cost of drainage works.

Additional services may be offered for drainage works. They will have to be paid separately. As a rule, firms offer the works presented in the table.

Table 2. Cost of additional services for drainage works.

Note! It is necessary to conclude an agreement on the drainage device on the site with those companies that provide a guarantee. The minimum period of its validity should not be less than 2-3 years.

Every homeowner understands that drainage around the house is one of the main procedures. The drainage of the house forms a protection against flooding, which will prevent subsequent deformation of the base of the house (foundation). It also excludes the possibility of distortions of windows and doors, and any defects will not appear on the walls.

At first glance, the procedure for creating drainage around the house seems difficult, but it is possible to do it yourself. This article will answer the question: how to make drainage around the house?

What is drainage around the house? This is a design that removes excess moisture from the building. This design can be arranged in different ways. But most often the system is made of pipes. The water goes through the pipes.

According to many people, one blind area around the structure is enough to create an effective catchment. But this is wrong, because professionals strongly recommend creating an entire drainage system that will provide better protection from water.

In total, there are three ways to remove water (drainage):

• public method. In this case, open ditches are used, the depth and width of which is 50 centimeters. The drainage depth must be sufficient. This is the easiest system that you can create yourself. But the ditches make the appearance of the site unpleasant. Also, after a certain period of time, the trenches crumble and can no longer be used. Therefore, they must be further strengthened with the help of different trays.
• Sleeping method. Ditches that have been dug must be covered with rubble. You can also use broken brick instead of large gravel. Sod is covered from the top of the ditch. The main advantage of this design is its huge operational life. The period increases if you use geosynthetics during installation, namely geotextiles. But there are disadvantages, which are that the structure cannot be technically maintained during use, and the system also has low level bandwidth.
• private method. In this situation, the system consists of perforated pipes that are laid inside the ground. This is the best drainage around the house, but it is difficult to do it yourself, you will have to resort to the help of specialists.

The main types of drainage design

In total, there are several varieties of the drainage system. Let's consider each type separately.

wall construction

The system is created around the base of the structure (foundation). Wall drainage must be installed if the building has a basement or basement. It is necessary to carry out the installation of the wall structure during the arrangement of the foundation of the building, when the foundation pit has not yet been filled up. If the mounting is carried out later, then you will have to perform additional work, which you need to spend time, effort and money.

The laying of the system is carried out along the foundation. Pipes must be removed from the corners of the building to manholes. At the point of the system, which is the lowest, a well is created for the output. In this well, water will be diverted outside the boundaries of the site.

To make additional protection for the foundation of the house, it is necessary to equip clay castle, which should be at a distance of 90 centimeters from the building.

Ring or trench design

This design is installed at a distance of two or three meters from the base of the structure. This type of drainage system is used for buildings that do not have basements or basements. Or the building should be located on a clay soil layer.

Also, a clay castle is created between the base of the structure and the drainage structure for additional protection. It is necessary to lay drainage at a depth of 50 centimeters from the foundation point, which is the lowest. Drains should be laid on large gravel.

Preparatory work before installation

Before you start creating drainage around the house, you need to prepare the base of the building:

• First, it is necessary to treat the outer part of the foundation with a bitumen-kerosene primer.
• Next, you need to apply mastic from bitumen.
• Then the reinforced mesh is laid into the bitumen. The cells of the reinforced mesh should be 2 × 2 millimeters.
• As soon as bituminous mastic will dry. Its drying time is approximately 24 hours. To close the reinforced mesh, you need to apply an additional layer of coating.

Rules and nuances of creating a structure

The main elements of the system are specially designed drainage pipes. They are made of plastic, and their maximum diameter is one hundred millimeters. If your budget does not allow them to be purchased, then ordinary sewer pipes can be used as their replacement. It is only necessary to select pipes of the required diameter, making holes in them.

It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the gravel in which the part will be laid. Its diameter should be larger than that of the holes made.

According to the experience of many people, the drainage system around the house can be done independently. To perform this procedure, you must follow the following rules and nuances:

• The pipe must be covered with gravel for 30 centimeters. In order to prevent the system from becoming clogged, elements are used that are wrapped in filtration material. Or, instead, geotextiles are laid.
• If deep drainage will be located under the road where cars move, then pipes made of metal should be used for the structure, which are connected by couplings to other elements.
• In order to freely clean and maintain the building during operation, manholes are installed at key points, as well as every ten meters.

Step-by-step instructions for installing drains

Even at the design stage of the site, it is necessary to consider the drainage system. Such a plan will help determine the exact location of perforated pipes, as well as calculate the right materials and components. Consider a step-by-step instruction:

• We carry out marking on the site according to the prepared plan. A drainage scheme around the house should be prepared. It is necessary to identify the highest and lowest point of the earth's surface. This must be known to cover the entire area.
• Next, you need to dig ditches of the required depth. The width of the ditch must be such that perforated or sewer pipes and large rubble.
• Then you need to organize the slope of the structure. Take measurements of the height differences, after which you should set the poles at the required points. At the bottom of the ditch, you need to carefully pour sand until the necessary slope is formed.
• The bottom of the ditch must be compacted. After that, it is necessary to fill in the crushed stone by ten centimeters, then the alignment is carried out again. Further, the bottom of the trench must be lined with geotextile, from the top of which a layer of gravel must be laid. You have to control the bias. Next, prepare the recess small size to lay perforated pipes.
• Perforated elements are laid on the prepared area, after which they should be tightly connected. Do not forget to check the selected slope of the pipeline. The check is carried out using a rope that is stretched along the moat.
• Then produced installation of manholes.
• If no filtration material is attached to the pipes, they must be wrapped with geotextile., and fastening is carried out using a polypropylene tape.
• The structure is backfilled with coarse gravel. The width of this layer should be 20 centimeters.
• Pipes must be brought to the manhole. From it, water will flow into the ditches.
• The filtration layer must be wrapped with geotextile. In this case, you need to make a small overlap.

The final stage of the procedure is backfilling the drainage system with river sand. To make everything look aesthetically pleasing, the sand also needs to be compacted.

Manholes

A well-made manhole is the key to an effective drainage system around your structure. A manhole is needed to maintain and clean the drainage structure. Without a well, the system will gradually become clogged and eventually become unusable.

It is possible to purchase a ready-made component on the construction market, or you can create it yourself using a piece of plastic pipe of the required diameter. The manhole should be wide enough so that a person's hand can go down there to clean the drainage system.

At the point of the drainage structure, which is the lowest, a catchment well must be installed. The most popular structures are made of reinforced concrete. The depth of the manhole should be such that the sand at the bottom should not interfere with the water flow. Only sometimes it needs to be cleaned.

Building materials and tools

As with any procedure, construction tools and materials will be needed to create a drainage system. The first construction tool is a shovel, with which ditches are dug. The next main component is plastic pipes that will drain water.

You will need manholes, a specially designed hacksaw for metal elements. We need transport that will carry out the transportation of large gravel, a heat insulator is also needed, namely geotextiles. On this insulation pipes are being laid. And you will need a small amount of sand.

Cost of work

The price depends on the materials that you will use for installation. If you need to equip the drainage system on suburban area, then you can use the available materials, for example, boards, slate, stones, remnants of bricks.

If your house is made of brick or wood, then in this case it is necessary to use materials that have a higher price, for example, plastic pipes, metal communications.

The total cost also includes thermal insulation, which must be taken care of. The best heat insulator for drainage is geotextile, if it is not available, then ordinary rags or humus can be used. Thanks to this, the structure will not freeze in the winter season.

Outcome

Well-prepared drainage around the house can provide protection for the building from groundwater, which has negative consequences. Drainage around the foundation becomes most necessary when it is necessary to protect the basement from the flood.

Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house happens various kinds, so you have to choose suitable type, which is suitable for your conditions and soil cover. Prepare a plan for future installation.

Work should preferably be carried out at the stage of building the foundation of the building. During mounting, you must follow a clear algorithm of actions. Each type of drainage uses its own materials. So, for example, if the system is located under the road where vehicles move, metal elements will be needed for installation.

For the garden plot, you can use publicly available building tools and materials. As a heat insulator, it is best to use geosynthetics, namely geotextiles. If this is not possible, then you can use ordinary rags.

Specialists will perform the work without problems and with high quality, observing every rule and nuances, but if you try, you can do everything yourself. You will be satisfied with the result, your room will be comfortable and protected from negative influence groundwater. Now you know how to make drainage around the house with your own hands.

Owners of household plots located on land with a high level of humidity, as well as all owners of garden plots in the autumn and spring, have to face the problem of arranging a high-quality drainage system. Enhanced level soil moisture leads to such unpleasant consequences as diseases of various plantings in a garden plot, washing away groundwater the foundation of the house and outbuildings, as well as the flooding of the basement. One of the types of drainage systems is drainage without pipes, the device of which can be found below.

There are two types of drainage system:

• Open
• Closed

The first type is used to drain surface water that forms after snow melts or rains pass. Usually, open drainage looks like this: grooves are dug throughout the site with a depth of 0.7 m and a width of 0.5 m with a certain slope. Often, plastic or concrete trays are placed in the recesses, closed from above with a grate. A layer of sand about 10 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the ditches, carefully compacted.

The second type of drainage, closed, is used to drain groundwater. Below the level of soil freezing, ditches are dug with a slope, on the bottom of which pipes are laid to drain water into a drain well.

In addition to using pipelines in a closed drainage system, backfill material can be used using crushed stone or bricks that are buried inside the trench. This method is budgetary, but ineffective, because it quickly leads to siltation of ditches. alternative and effective way creating a drainage system from the soil is drainage with rubble without pipes, or the so-called soft drainage.

Drainage in the area without pipes

The choice in favor of drainage with crushed stone without pipes is often due to the fact that the soil contains a small amount of water, which would require the arrangement of a volumetric drainage system with pipes. In addition, the reason for choosing drainage without pipes may be too complex a site relief or layout, a large number of plantations, as well as insufficient finances for arranging a complex drainage system. A drainage system using crushed stone without pipes is less expensive and easier to install: it is only necessary to monitor the correct slope of the grooves without aligning the various pipes.

Depending on the type of soil, the urgency of the work, financial possibilities, there are two ways to make drainage on the site: with or without the use of geotextile material. In the first case, the drainage method will turn out to be more expensive, and in the second - less durable.

There are a lot of varieties of geotextile material, as well as its manufacturers, on the market today. The best option for arranging the drainage system will be polypropylene geotextiles. He resists well various influences environment, and is also characterized by excellent filtering qualities. For effective work for drainage, you will need a geotextile fabric with a density of 60-110 g / m2. Geotextile acts as a filtering material, while it is also necessary to use waterproofing. Such material is tecton. The geotextile does not allow long time draining materials become clogged, and trenches become silted. With the help of the tecton, water does not accumulate in the soil, but is discharged outside the site into the drain. Of course, it is possible to replace the tecton with more budgetary materials, such as polyethylene film, roofing material, other cardboard-based bituminous materials, but they do not guarantee a long-term service life of the drainage system.

Sand and gravel are chosen as drainage materials. There are no special requirements for sand, and crushed stone must be chosen not limestone, because after some time it will cause soil salinization. The crushed stone fraction can be from 20 to 60 mm. The backfill material will need to be flushed out before backfilling the trenches.

How to make drainage on a site without pipes

Before you make drainage without the use of pipes, it is necessary to draw up a geodetic plan of the site with marked places of hills and lowlands. These sections will determine the direction of the trench lines, since drainage without pipes should begin at the highest point in the terrain and end at the lowest. The drainage system scheme should consist of: a central conductor at least 50 cm deep, drainage drains at a distance of 7-10 meters from each other, as well as a water storage tank if it is not removed by the system outside the site.

A trench is dug at an angle of inclination coinciding with the direction of the drain. The bottom of the recess must be made semicircular, like a gutter.

The ditches are cleared of debris, dirt, after which the bottom is lined with tecton. From above, geotextiles are laid inside the ditch in such a way that the bottom and side walls are completely covered with a margin of at least 20-30 cm. After that, crushed stone is poured and covered with a geotextile cloth with an overlap of at least 30 cm. Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone, carefully compacted. Sod can be laid on a sandy surface or a geogrid or geogrid can be used if a site with a high load on the soil is located at the site of the trench.

Soil drainage without the use of waterproofing materials is similar, but has fewer advantages. Soft drainage with laying geotextiles and tecton not only removes water from the site, but also filters it, allowing it to be used later as technical water or for irrigating plantations.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house without pipes

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house has certain features. Depending on the height of the base of the house, the ditch breaks out with a depth exceeding the base of the foundation of the house by 30-50 cm. At the same time, you should pay attention to the fact that you cannot dig a drainage trench around all the walls at once - this carries a certain danger to the stability of the foundation, so the trenches are dug around the walls in turn. The slope of the trench should be 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

The bottom, subject to a certain slope, is carefully compacted. This can be done with rammed clay or concreting. The foundation near the wall is waterproofed. Further, a layer of crushed stone of a large fraction is laid to a depth of 1/3 of the ditch, a layer of crushed stone of a smaller fraction is laid on it, and fine drainage is laid out on top of them to level it with the ground.

Soft drainage without gravel

Drainage without the use of pipes can also be carried out without the use of crushed stone, since, depending on the depth of the trenches, its amount is sometimes very large and expensive. One of these methods is fascine drainage: birch, coniferous, or oak brushwood is laid on the bottom of the trenches, tied in bundles 30 cm long. Crossed pegs are laid along the entire length of the trench, and brushwood (fascina) is placed below them. Sand falls on top.

Instead of crushed stone, it is also advisable to use expanded clay to equip the wall drainage system around the house. Its main advantage is low thermal conductivity, due to which it performs a heat-insulating function.

The closed method of soil drainage consists in the use of backfill material - pieces of brick, small stones, concrete fragments. The entire trench is filled with these materials, but without the use of geotextiles, such a ditch silts up very quickly.

Using conventional plastic bottles- an alternative to crushed stone and fascines, a simple and budget option. To implement such a drainage system, bottles with twisted lids are laid along the trench at the bottom. Sod is laid on top, sprinkled with earth. In the space between the bottles, drainage is performed.

Another alternative method involves the use of poles. Long branches are laid at the bottom of the trench on spacers made of wooden sticks. The poles must be made of coniferous wood, previously cleared of bark.

The last two methods of site drainage described are unpredictable in terms of longevity and performance, but they are the best options when there is not enough money to lay drainage from pipes or gravel.