Filling a hole in a pot 10 letters How to restore enamel on a pan. Metal utensils in the kitchen

Metal cookware can last a long time. At proper care it practically never fails. But still, during cooking, various troubles occur, including overheating, as a result of which a hole or chip may appear if restoration of broken dishes is possible. After such an incident, the pan is most often thrown away, but is it always necessary to immediately run to the trash? Repairing an enameled pan is sometimes possible, and this is what will be discussed next.

Metal utensils in the kitchen

Despite the fact that many housewives have long been using pots and pans made of refractory glass or ceramics, metal utensils are still extremely popular. She has many advantages:

  • heats up quickly:
  • cools down quickly;
  • tolerates temperature fluctuations;
  • easy to care for;
  • It is much cheaper than analogues from other materials.

True, metal pans also have disadvantages - in particular, not all of them are repairable. Mainly used utensils from the following materials:

  • of stainless steel;
  • aluminum;
  • enamelled steel.

Important! Cast iron cookware is still used to cook some dishes, it keeps heat better and distributes it evenly. Read about what and how to cook in such dishes in our culinary blogs:

But, unfortunately, cast-iron cookware most often cannot be repaired. But to put in order the rest - you can try.

How to fix?

If a hole appears on an aluminum, steel or enameled surface, you can do one of the following:

  • plug the hole with a bolt;
  • solder;
  • make a rivet;
  • seal;
  • brew.

Important! The first method, as well as riveting, is suitable for any material. But not everything can be soldered - for example, steel must first be annealed, but the method is extremely unreliable. The best option is to brew if you have the equipment.

We put the bolt

This method has a significant drawback - the enamel cannot be restored in this way. On the contrary, it will gradually flake off. So the option can be regarded as temporary. If you urgently need to close up a small hole in the bottom and absolutely do not care what happens to the pan then, better way you can't imagine. The enamel can then be restored.

How to fix an enamel pot? Very simple. You need:

  • suitable size bolt
  • drill;
  • drill for metal.

A hole is rarely absolutely correct. Therefore, first of all, it must be put in relative order:

  1. Take a 3 mm drill (if there is a 2 mm bolt, then you need the same drill).
  2. Drill the hole, giving it the most correct shape.
  3. Insert bolt.
  4. WITH inside tighten the nut firmly.

Important! It is hardly worth cooking in such a pan, but it will be possible to boil water for a long time - as well as use it for other purposes (for example, if it is steel or enameled, it is possible in it, etc.).

hard solder

Repairing pans with a bolt is the easiest way, but not suitable for every case. For example, it is unlikely that it will be possible to repair a curved surface in this way. In this case, you will have to solder, and you need to use hard solder - that is, do the same as the tinkers on the streets and markets used to repair metal utensils.

You need:

  • tin plate;
  • tin solder;
  • flux;
  • sandpaper;
  • file;
  • high power soldering iron.

Tinned tin is used to make AA battery cases - from there it can be taken to be used in this way:

  1. Sand the area around the hole so that the enamel is completely removed and only bare metal is left.
  2. Apply flux.
  3. Tin the damaged area with a soldering iron using hard solder.
  4. Cut out a patch from the tin.
  5. Tin it the same way.
  6. Put a patch on the hole.
  7. Heat it up with a soldering iron.
  8. Wait for the solder to melt.
  9. Press the patch against the outside of the pot.
  10. Remove excess solder - this is done with a file.

Solder must be applied in a thick layer - not less than 5 mm. With such a repair, the patch will not fall off for a long time. You can cook in a pot, but not too often.

Important! Lead is toxic, so if you're going to be cooking in the pot, use pure tin as the solder.

Restoring enamel

How to repair an enamel pan if there is no hole, but the enamel has broken off? We need to restore the enamel. This will require putty, which you can do yourself. You need:

  • kaolin - 225 g;
  • trepan - 60 g;
  • calcined borax - 40 g;
  • sodium silicate - 30 g;
  • powdered glass - 20 g;
  • slaked lime - 20 g;
  • water - 10 ml;
  • capacity;
  • mortar and pestle:
  • pharmacy scales.

All ingredients can be bought at chemical reagent stores, but it is easier to do it through the online store. Grind the components thoroughly and mix. Then follow this procedure:

  1. Clean and dry the surface.
  2. Degrease the area where you will apply putty.
  3. Apply putty.
  4. Let it dry for two days.

Enamel from quartz sand

There is another kind of homemade enamel. For her you will need:

  • casein;
  • sodium liquid glass;
  • borax;
  • quartz flour;
  • shattered glass.

Here is what needs to be done with all this so that the repair of the enameled pan gives the expected result:

  1. Combine 12 parts of casein, 6 parts of liquid glass, 10 parts of borax, 14 parts of quartz flour and 5 parts of grated glass.
  2. Mix everything well, add a little water to make a homogeneous dough.
  3. Prepare the enameled surface in the same way as in the previous case, that is, clean it to metal and wipe with acetone or gasoline, and then dry.
  4. Apply the composition you have prepared, rub and let dry.
  5. Then sand to make it smooth and beautiful, and you can use it.

Other ways to restore enamel from video

If the dishes are white, you can apply an easier method. On sale you can easily find glass enamel. It is applied to any metal surfaces, including dishes, if it is used at temperatures up to 350 ° C:

  1. Read the instructions.
  2. Clean the surface with coarse sandpaper.
  3. Degrease the repair site.
  4. Apply enamel.

big hole

But what if a solid hole has formed in your favorite saucepan, for which the tin from the battery is simply not enough? You will need a piece of copper, that is, a copper plate. Also very useful:

  • file;
  • file;
  • sandpaper;
  • gasoline or acetone;
  • soldering iron;
  • tin;
  • rosin;
  • flux.

Before applying the patch, everything needs to be carefully prepared:

  1. Wash the pot well.
  2. Clean the damaged area of ​​all deposits and rust, if any.
  3. Clean the plate too.
  4. Wipe both surfaces with acetone, gasoline, white spirit.
  5. Apply flux or treat the surface with soldering fluid (available at any hardware store).
  6. Warm up the soldering iron.
  7. Place the sting in rosin.
  8. When a light smoke appears, you can begin.
  9. Dial the solder - the sting must be held until a film appears.
  10. Apply solder to the repair area.
  11. Smooth it out on the outside and inside of the pan.
  12. Gradually apply pieces of solder and smooth out until the hole disappears.


How to prepare a soldering iron?

If you have already dealt with a soldering iron, repairing a pan will not seem difficult to you. For those who decide to do this for the first time in their lives, it makes sense to prepare a soldering iron first. It needs to be tinkered with:

  1. Clean the sting - this can be done with both sandpaper and a file.
  2. Heat up the device by plugging it in.
  3. Rub the stinger over a piece of rosin.
  4. Separate a little solder with a heated tip.
  5. Making circular movements, make sure that the tin evenly spreads over the entire sting - the end should be covered on both sides.
  6. If you do not get an even layer, repeat the procedure, but try to clean the sting as best as possible.

Important! If you notice a blue film on the prepared soldering iron, it must be cooled.

Can it be used?

You can use the pan, but not immediately. It must first be prepared. It is done like this:

  1. Wait for the solder to cool down.
  2. Clean up the solder joint so that the patch does not stand out too much.
  3. After that, you can try to boil water - if you did everything right, the pan will not leak.

Important! Well, the utensils are saved, it's time to check whether milk will run out of it. By the way, if you still do not know in which dishes it is better to cook milk, we will tell you in our article:

Repairing an aluminum pan

The situation is much more complicated with aluminum surfaces. Soldering them is very difficult. Of course, if there is argon welding (and such a device can now be bought completely freely) - there are no problems. But buying such expensive equipment only makes sense if you are going to do it all the time - for the sake of one aluminum pan, this is definitely not worth it.

Is it necessary to throw away a damaged pan? Not at all. It can be used for a variety of purposes - for example, it will fit perfectly in the garden. You can collect fruits and vegetables in it, as well as carry water for watering. To repair you need:

  • a piece of aluminum;
  • bolt with nut;
  • drill;
  • hacksaw for metal.

From aluminum you need to make two patches. They should be bigger than the hole:

  1. Apply patches to the hole from the outside and inside.
  2. Fasten them with one or more bolts - the nuts should be on the inside.

Important! A steel pan can be repaired in any way - both soldered and patched.

Soldering an aluminum pan

Aluminum is poorly soldered due to the rapid formation of an oxide film. In addition, you will need a very powerful soldering iron - 100 watts or more. There are difficulties with solder - bismuth is added to it, and getting it is not as easy as other metals.

Solder consists of two components:

  • tin - 80-95%;
  • bismuth - 5-20%.

Important! Be aware that bismuth is toxic. Cooking in such a pan is hardly worth it, but it will be possible to use it for other purposes.

As a flux is used:

  • paraffin;
  • stearin.

To avoid the appearance of an oxide film, you can try the following method:

  1. Clean the surface where the hole is located.
  2. Melt the rosin.
  3. Fill the hole with melt
  4. Apply flux.
  5. Type solder on the tip and close the hole from the edges to the middle.

We clean aluminum and steel utensils after repair

If you need to restore appearance aluminum utensils, it is easy enough to clean. For this, the most common soda is suitable. Clean the pan, and it will regain its former beauty.

In the same way, the spectacular appearance of stainless steel products is also restored. In this case, even soda is not needed - any dishwashing detergent is enough.

other methods

In some cases, it is better not to solder the metal surfaces, but to glue them together. True, cooking in sealed pots will not work - this will fit only as a bucket. But just in case, you need to know these methods. Adhesives suitable for you:

  • BF-2;
  • BF-4;
  • epoxy.

BF-2 and BF-4

These adhesives are made from phenol-formaldehyde resin, so cookware repaired with them is not suitable for cooking. The method of application is simple:

  1. Thoroughly clean the surfaces so that no grease, rust or dirt remains.
  2. Treat the bonding area and patch with acetone or gasoline.
  3. Apply glue in a thin layer - it is more convenient to do this with a brush.
  4. Let the product dry for about an hour.
  5. Apply a second layer of glue.
  6. Let it dry out a little.
  7. Attach surfaces to each other (for example, a metal plate to a hole), press.
  8. Put the product in the oven and heat for an hour.


Epoxy adhesive

This solution consists of several components. He has:

  • epoxy resin;
  • dibutyl phthalate (plasticizer);
  • aluminum oxide or quartz flour;
  • hardener.

After the patch is glued, the product must be placed in the oven, heating it to 200 ° C and warming up for about three hours. This is the best variant. If there is no oven, then you can warm up to 120 °, and then leave the pan alone for a day, after which it will be ready for use. You can store food in it, you should not cook it.

Rivet

If there is no glue at hand, but there are many tools for working with metal in the house, you can make a rivet. You need:

  • a good hammer (it should sit tightly on the handle);
  • hacksaw;
  • chisel;
  • pliers;
  • vise;
  • wire cutters;
  • anvil;
  • metal plate;
  • thick wire - copper or aluminum.

Pot repair procedure:

  1. Cut a piece of wire 10-12 cm.
  2. Clamp him in a vise.
  3. Flatten one end with light hammer blows to make a hat - it should be larger than the hole.
  4. Insert the free end of the wire into the hole so that the hat closes it.
  5. Trim off the free end.
  6. Flatten it so that there is also a hat on the other side that covers the hole.

footage

A pan repaired by any of the above methods will last a long time. In addition, the very feeling that hands are growing out of the shoulders gives a person confidence - if you succeeded, you can repair anything.

Soldering stainless steel is a very time-consuming process. Observing the soldering technology, as well as taking into account all the features, this procedure is greatly facilitated. Relatively easy to process metals of stainless type from nickel, chromium with a share in the metal of not more than 25%. Such materials make it possible to obtain high quality brazed joints, even from dissimilar metal parts, with the exception of aluminum alloys, as well as magnesium. The most technologically simple processes include soldering stainless steel with tin.

Features of brazing stainless steel

Using tin solders is great for soldering small items as well as home repairs. Without any problems, you can solder a pot, bowl, mug or other household items made of stainless steel at home using a conventional electric soldering iron and tin.

For especially critical solder joints, alloys of special grades based on phosphorus and nickel are used. In addition, materials from chromium, nickel, manganese are widely used. This group is well suited when working in an environment of gases containing a mixture of boron trifluoride and argon. With such soldering, pure copper can act as solder, which perfectly conducts wetting of the metal, followed by a strong connection.

Before soldering stainless steel, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the technological process, as well as the features different methods metal work. By watching the corresponding video, you can get detailed information about all the features of the working procedure. The soldering of various products from food and industrial stainless steel has many nuances that are paid attention to when choosing a soldering method, as well as the consumables necessary for this.

Used equipment

Proper work with stainless steel items requires theoretical training and familiarization with the process itself through video materials. For soldering stainless metal at home, the following equipment and materials are used:

  • an electric soldering iron of the order of 100 W or a gas burner;
  • flux for soldering stainless steel in the form of a special soldering acid;
  • sanding paper, metal brush or file;
  • solvent (acetone);
  • solder;
  • protective gloves and cleaning cloth.

In addition to the basic tools, materials, additional accessories may be needed depending on the type of workpiece. Soldering products large sizes may require the use of a higher power soldering iron. This is necessary for good heating of the joints. Please note that this power tool is used exclusively when working with soft (light alloy) solders of the POS type or tin. Pure metal is great for repairing dishes, where phosphoric acid is used as a flux. It provides excellent adhesion of the alloy at the soldering site.

Types of solder and features of choice

You can solder objects made of stainless steel with your own hands both with soft and hard alloys. Solder for soldering light-alloy type stainless steel contains lead, as well as tin, and is designated by the POS brand. Hard alloys consist of refractory metals.

The presence of tin gives the material high fluidity, as well as good plasticity in the molten form. This is especially useful when soldering stainless elements, as the tin-lead material has an excellent deoxidizing effect. Before soldering stainless steel with tin, the video will demonstrate to beginners all the features of this process.

The strongest joints are obtained using hard alloys. Soldering stainless steel parts with their help is carried out at home, as well as in production conditions. Often, hard-type alloys contain technical silver. The value of this silver component can reach up to 30% of the total amount of metals in the alloy. Such carbide rods are designated by the brand PSr.

It is good to solder stainless products, copper, as well as brass, nickel, bronze, cast iron and other metals using HTS-528 grade alloy. Its surface initially has a reddish flux layer, which makes it easy to solder a variety of objects. It should be taken into account that this rod melts at 760 °C.

Advantages and disadvantages of tin soldering

The use of tin materials has its own characteristics when working. These soft alloys have some advantages that facilitate the soldering process:

  • ease and speed of repair of small-sized products;
  • lack of a lengthy preparatory procedure;
  • low cost of consumables;
  • during processing, the fluidity of the stainless steel decreases, which facilitates the work;
  • high quality connections for many products of low responsibility.

In addition to the obvious positive qualities, there are some disadvantages of using tin alloys:

  • soldering has a low mechanical strength compared to other methods of making permanent connections;
  • decline temperature regime operation of parts due to the presence of tin;
  • complications during soldering due to high fluidity.

Common Mistakes

The main trouble when soldering objects made of stainless steel is the uneven distribution of the alloy over the treated area. This is due to poor cleaning of the soldering site, as well as insufficient heating of the surfaces to be joined, especially with their large sizes.

The correct selection of flux and the appropriate solder affects the process of work. In addition to borax, soldering acids are used as the flux material used. Processing areas with tin can be difficult if the consistency is not correct. For good soldering, it must be in liquid form.

Avoiding these basic soldering errors results in a joint of high strength and durability. Don't forget to let the joint cool down. In this case, the product must not be subjected to mechanical stress, as well as shifted. At the end of the procedure, rinse the adhesion area well. This is necessary to remove residual flux and alloy from the surface of the part.

Work performance technology

How to solder stainless steel at home? The beginning of the soldering procedure consists of the preparation of products. To do this, they are cleaned of dirt and oxide film. Mechanical work is carried out with a sandpaper or a circle, a metal brush. Before soldering any stainless steel, it is required to degrease the area with a solvent, acetone. The next step consists of applying the flux to the area of ​​the workpiece. When using a combination type of solder, no flux material is used.

The place to be soldered is heated using an electric soldering iron with a tinned tip or a gas burner. It is required to constantly monitor the amount of oxygen in the flame, since its excess will lead to additional oxidation of the metal product. The burning tongue should have a bright blue color.

By moving the burner smoothly, the entire area to be joined is heated. To control its condition, a bar of solder is periodically applied. If it begins to melt, the surface temperature is suitable for processing. The alloy being used is placed in the seam to be soldered, gradually filling the joint area with molten metal. To evenly distribute the alloy, you can additionally warm up the place. Ensuring good strength of the soldered seam is achieved in the presence of solder, the excess of which will flow out of the processed joint. Soldering stainless steel at home is presented in a video that reveals the features of the process.

In order to obtain a high quality soldering and speed up the process, it is recommended to tin the contact areas in advance. After that, the connection of products is performed, heating to the state of melting of the solder. If it is necessary to re-solder, flux is additionally applied and heated with a gas burner or an electric soldering iron. This process is carried out until the joint is completely evenly covered with solder. At the end of the soldering process, the product is cooled and washed well to remove the remaining flux or solder.

Overlay soldering of steel sheets can be carried out using a solder paste consisting of flux and solder. The processed contact area of ​​one part is covered with this mass, rigidly fixed with another part and heated from both sides.

Before you solder stainless steel at home, take care to follow the safety precautions when working with hazardous materials and hot objects. Ensure good ventilation in the soldering area and beware of molten metal fumes.

Soldering stainless steel with tin is considered by many specialists to be a very difficult procedure, since there is a special role in the behavior of such a metal. This solder is considered a more effective option to use for soldering stainless steel.

A similar method is considered popular for most who are faced with such procedures, but it is not always possible to achieve the result required in terms of quality. Such soldering is mainly used for joining small materials, where it is necessary to fasten small parts, and is also used to seal various small cracks, and other similar defects. Here, the presence of requirements is not too large, however, soldering must be carried out at the highest possible level in terms of quality. Solders for such work are produced in rods that resemble welding wire. Soldering stainless steel with tin in industrial areas is rarely used, unlike at home. It doesn't matter how the soldering process is carried out, with a soldering iron or a torch, anyway, when exposed to temperature, the material will spread quickly, so careful movements must be carried out to obtain the best result. Also, for a high-quality connection, you will need to correctly configure the necessary parameters and modes using adjustment, as well as select the appropriate consumables. Such work is carried out according to the technical conditions, which must comply with GOST 860-75.

Advantages of the process of soldering stainless steel with tin

  • Thanks to this process, it is possible to carry out the process of repairing small breakdowns quite simply and as quickly as possible without using complex procedures;
  • Such work does not take much time and lengthy preparatory procedures;
  • The prices for consumables are accordingly not high;
  • Due to the property of tin, which makes it less fluid when exposed to high temperatures, the soldering process is more convenient and not problematic, unlike other solders;
  • In all variants of soldering, the final result has a correspondingly high level of quality.

Disadvantages of soldering stainless steel with tin

  • The soldering process is not strong enough compared to other methods of obtaining a permanent connection;
  • When using tin, the operating temperature range of fabrications becomes lower, since such a metal can be melted;
  • There are inconveniences in the process of joining stainless steel due to the high fluidity.

Equipment and fixtures

When working on soldering stainless steel, it is necessary to have all the necessary tools available, such as:

  • Soldering iron or gas burner;
  • Solvent;
  • Solder;
  • Metal brush;
  • Flux;
  • Mittens for protection;
  • Wiping material.

It is recommended to purchase a soldering iron that has a power of 100 W, since models with less power will not be able to melt the material to the required stage. When you have to solder parts with large dimensions, then, most likely, you will need a more powerful soldering iron. The sting of the device must be fireproof, which will significantly increase the longevity.

It must be remembered that a soldering iron is not considered a sufficiently versatile device, since its capabilities in operation are limited only to those solders that melt easily. Here, for a more correct soldering, bars made entirely of tin, or welding rods from the POS series, are suitable. The first type option is perfect for various dishes and other similar containers, since it does not contain impurities. Instead of using a flux, it is recommended to use phosphoric acid for these procedures. Such a substance is required to treat the surface of the future connection, for the most high level quality.

Selection of solder and other materials

For the process of soldering stainless steel with a soldering iron, it is necessary to choose the right solder, since the final result depends on this choice. One of the most popular types is the POS series. This variety for soldering, unlike simple tin, is produced in the form of bars with the presence of complementary inclusions of lead, due to which the properties of the material change in positive side. There are several brands of this series:

Such solders can contain not only tin, but also cadmium, lead and other metals. If it is necessary to carry out the process of soldering products that will be used for food, then you need to make sure that nothing but tin is present in the material, since other metals can be harmful to your body.

A small difficulty is the choice of a suitable flux, since not everyone will fit. In such a case, a special active flux will be required, in the role of soldering acid, phosphoric acid or zinc chloride. It is recommended to start work immediately after applying it to the metal surface, since the flux can be combined with the film.

The technology of soldering stainless steel with tin

Before carrying out the process of soldering stainless steel with tin, it is required to carry out preparatory procedures with metal. First, it is necessary to carry out a mechanical process using a metal brush or sandpaper, depending on the thickness of the workpiece.

Then you will need to remove the oxide film that appears on the surface of the metal, as well as from fatty appearances and other contaminants using a solvent, acetone and other chemical substances. Then, a flux is required to be applied to a clean surface, in case the combined solder, which already contains a similar substance, is not used. After completing all the preparatory procedures, you can directly proceed to the soldering process. To do this, you will need to heat the part with a torch or soldering iron. If a burner is used, then you need to carefully monitor the level of oxygen, because if it is lacking, the metal will begin to oxidize.

In order not to miss such an important nuance, you will need to pay attention to the color of the flame, because if the composition is oversaturated, it will turn light blue. To melt the solder, it will be necessary to heat the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joint to the required temperature, since its melting does not depend on the burner, but on the metal heated by it. Solder is applied to the place where the parts are connected, proceeding slowly until the entire place is filled.

Quality control

Such a process is carried out in accordance with GOST 19249-73. Here, methods of control with and without destruction can be applied. The main ones are:

  • Radiation control;
  • Technical inspection;
  • Radioscopy method.

Precautions

If soldering stainless steel with tin is carried out at home, then electrical safety rules must be followed. The main problem is that you can get burned by touching the soldering iron with it, and also with metal or solder. It requires the presence of the necessary metal stand where you can put the soldering iron in order to avoid its interaction with various objects, especially with flammable things. It is recommended to work in ventilated areas, since fumes from metals and the solder itself adversely affect the respiratory system.

Soldering stainless steel with tin is a rather complicated process for many, since the peculiarity of the behavior of this metal plays a role here. This solder is one of the best options which can be used for stainless steel. This is a standard method that is familiar to many who are involved in soldering, but in the case of stainless steel, it is not always possible to guarantee a high-quality and reliable result. This process is generally used for small connections where it is necessary to attach small parts. It is also necessary when sealing small cracks and other similar defects. The requirements for the connection are not as high as for welding, however, it is necessary to do everything with the highest quality. Solder for such procedures comes in rods, which are similar to welding wire.

In industry, this method is not as often used as soldering stainless steel with tin at home. Regardless of whether soldering occurs with a soldering iron or with a gas burner, the material spreads quickly and all actions must be accurate. To decrease Negative influence, you should correctly select the operating modes, as well as consumables. IN specifications all this is carried out in accordance with GOST 860-75.

Benefits of soldering stainless steel with tin

  • Soldering stainless steel with tin helps to repair minor damage relatively easily and quickly without resorting to complex procedures;
  • The process itself does not take much time and does not require long preparation;
  • Consumables have a relatively low cost;
  • Tin reduces the fluidity of stainless steel when soldering, making the process less difficult than with other solders;
  • For many options, the end result is of reasonably good quality.

Disadvantages of soldering stainless steel with tin

  • Soldering is inferior to many other processes for obtaining a permanent connection in terms of strength, so that it cannot be used for critical structures;
  • Due to the use of tin, the temperature range of operation of the parts is reduced, since the material may melt;
  • Difficulties remain with the behavior of stainless steel in the liquid state.

Tin soldering modes

Burner flame temperature, degrees aim

Preparation of equipment and necessary materials

Soldering stainless steel with tin involves the correct selection of tools and other equipment. For this you will need:

  • Soldering iron or gas burner;
  • Solvent;
  • Solder;
  • Metal brush;
  • Flux;
  • Protective gloves;
  • Wiping cloth.

It is advisable to take a soldering iron with a power of 100 W, since less powerful models will not be able to melt the material.

If we are talking about large joints, then a more powerful soldering iron may be required here. The tip of the tool must be non-flammable, as this significantly increases its service life. It should be noted that the capabilities of the soldering iron are limited, since it can only work with low-melting solders. For such soldering, bars of pure tin or rods from the POS series are best suited.

The first option is well suited for dishes and other containers, as it does not contain impurities. As a flux, it is best to use phosphoric acid for this variety. She needs to process the places where the metal will be soldered and then the setting will be at a much higher level.

Selection of solder and other materials

Soldering stainless steel with a soldering iron involves a competent selection of solder, since the quality of the connection will depend on it. One of the most popular in this planet is the POS series. Unlike ordinary tin, which is sold for soldering in the form of bars, it also has additional inclusions of lead, which changes the properties of the material. It is worth paying attention to brands:

They may contain not only tin, but also cadmium, lead and other metals. If you need to solder parts that will come into contact with food products, then in the material, except for tin, there should be nothing superfluous, since other things may be harmful to health. It is difficult to choose a flux for stainless steel, since not everyone can come in handy here. It requires the so-called "active flux", which is soldering acid, phosphoric acid or zinc chloride. It is advisable, as soon as it is applied to the surface, immediately begin the procedure so that the flux does not take a film.

Technology of soldering stainless steel with tin

Before the soldering of stainless steel with tin begins, it is required to clean it from the oxide film that can form on the surface of the metal, as well as from other contaminants. This is done with a metal brush or sandpaper.

Then the degreasing procedure takes place, for which you need a solvent, for which acetone can also be used. When the surface is cleaned, you can apply flux if you do not use a combined solder that already contains it in its composition.

Next, heating occurs with a burner or a soldering iron tip. When using a burner, you need to monitor the level of oxygen, since if it is in excess, the metal will oxidize. To recognize such a parameter, it is necessary to pay attention to the color of the flame, since in a supersaturated composition it will be light blue. It is necessary to heat the entire joint to such a temperature that the solder can melt.

It should melt not from the burner, but from the metal heated by it. Solder is placed in the area where the joint is located, this is done gradually until the entire area is filled.

This should be done until the excess starts to flow out of the gaps, then the best degree of setting can be guaranteed.”

Quality control

For this, GOST 19249-73 is used. Here, methods of control with and without destruction can be used. Among them are such as:

  • Radiation control;
  • Technical inspection;
  • radioscopic method;

Security measures

When soldering stainless steel with tin at home, you should follow the rules of electrical safety. The main problem is that you can get burned on contact with a soldering iron, heated metal or solder. Inhalation of metal fumes should also be avoided.

Enamel cookware is strong and durable, but if handled incorrectly, it can quickly fail. The appearance of products is affected by various factors, such as frequent overheating or falling from a height. Repairing enamel on dishes is not an easy task, but in some cases it is possible to restore it yourself.

How to repair damaged enamel

The easiest way to make minor repairs to a damaged surface is to use enamel paint, which is available in cans:

  • "Nitroemal";
  • "White enamel";
  • Bath Enamel.

Before restoring the enamel on the pan, it is necessary to clean the place of damage, degrease it and dry it. After that, you can spray paint on the chip, following the instructions on the label. Enamel can only be applied to those places that do not come into contact with food.

You can repair the pan with a soldering iron. To do this, you will need an electric soldering iron, solder and soldering acid. To do this procedure, you need pure tin, which melts at a temperature of 232 ° C.

At the first experience with a soldering iron, it is necessary to remove the insulation from it. To do this, clean the end with sanding paper, heat the device and rub it on rosin. To solder the pan, you should go over the necessary areas of the surface with sandpaper, and clean it of grease and rust.

Only after that you can take a hot soldering iron, separate a small part of the solder with it and distribute it over the entire surface of the working end of the device.

The damaged area must be heated and smeared with flux using a wooden stick. Next, you need to put a drop of tin on the chip and evenly distribute it over the surface, making movements back and forth. When the solder is smoothed out, you should take a small amount of tin and repeat the procedure until it fills all the microcracks and displaces the flux.


Pot repair at home

You can restore the enamel at home with the help of home-made putty. You will need the following components:

  • white clay - 220 g;
  • calcined borax - 50 g;
  • sodium metasilicate - 25 g;
  • slaked lime - 25 g;
  • powdered glass - 30 g;
  • pure water - 15 ml;
  • capacity;
  • mortar.

All reagents can be purchased at chemical stores, as they are sold in consolidated access. The components must be folded into a mortar, crushed and mixed thoroughly. The chipped area must be treated with sandpaper, remove fat, apply the prepared putty and leave for 48 hours. During this time, the putty will completely grab the enamel, all that remains is to sand the area to make it beautiful and even.


Even if it is possible to close the hole and restore the coating, such dishes will still not last long. In addition, food cannot be stored in it for a long time and exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, it is better to initially keep the pans in their original form and handle them with care.

  1. Enamel is destroyed by sudden changes in temperature, so dishes with such a coating should not be put on fire empty.
  2. To avoid chips at the bottom of the pan, you can use wooden spoons and spatulas for stirring.
  3. If the enamel has already begun to fall off, then do not use the dishes. It is impossible to cook food and boil water in it, as metal compounds can enter the body and cause poisoning.
  4. Cooking in an enamel pot better first dishes, compotes and kissels, as cereals and some main dishes can burn strongly. Naturally, to wash such soot, you will need hard brushes that destroy the coating.
  5. Before first use, a new pan must be washed with dishwashing detergent and wiped dry.

In order for the enamel to retain its qualities for as long as possible, dishes with such a coating can be hardened. To do this, fill the pan with water, add salt, at the rate of 2 tbsp. per 1 liter water and boil. Drain the water only when it has completely cooled down. If you follow these recommendations, then you can ensure that the dishes will serve for many more years.

Soldering stainless steel is a rather time-consuming procedure, but it will not cause any problems if you know all the features of its implementation. With significantly less labor, it is possible to solder products that contain no more than 25% chromium and nickel. Moreover, soldering stainless steel with such a chemical composition makes it possible to obtain reliable joints of products from dissimilar metals, excluding alloys with magnesium and aluminum.

To minimize the risk of formation of carbide compounds in the stainless steel structure during soldering, titanium is added to the alloy, and after the formation of the compound, the product is subjected to heat treatment. Care must be taken when soldering riveted stainless steels, the surface of which can become cracked under the influence of heated solder. To avoid such consequences, it is necessary to exclude the load of the connected parts during the soldering process. In addition, it is possible to pre-anneal the parts to be joined.

The choice of solder with which you can solder stainless steel is influenced by how chemical composition alloy, and conditions technological process. So, if this process is carried out at high humidity environment, then you should use silver alloys, which include a small amount of nickel. Soldering in oven conditions, as well as in a relatively dry atmosphere, is carried out using chromium-nickel and silver-manganese solders.

The most common type of flux that is used when soldering stainless steel is borax, which is applied to the place of the future joint in the form of a paste or powder. The melting of the drill on the surface of the parts to be joined contributes to the uniform and most accurate heating of the area of ​​the future seam to the required temperature - 850 °. Only after the required heating temperature has been reached, which can be determined by changing the color of the place of the future joint to light red, solder is introduced into the joint between the parts.

After soldering, flux residues are present at the junction, which are removed by washing with water or. To perform such a procedure, nitric or hydrochloric acids cannot be used, which, although they effectively clean the flux remaining on the surface of the parts, have a negative effect on both the base metal and the used solder.

How to solder at home

Tasks such as joining stainless steel parts by soldering and soldering stainless steel to copper are often encountered at home. Products made of stainless steel have been actively used in everyday life for many years, therefore, when they become unusable for any reason, anyone home master there is a natural desire to repair them yourself. It should be said right away that soldering stainless steel parts is not so difficult, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology, as well as stock up on the appropriate tools and consumables.

Before you start soldering stainless steel, it is very desirable not only to study the theoretical material on this issue, but also to get acquainted with the rules for its implementation in more detail with the help of training videos.

To solder stainless steel products, you will need the following tools and supplies:

  • a soldering iron powered by electricity, the power of which is at least 100 W;
  • special soldering acid, which will be used as a flux;
  • file or sandpaper;
  • solder specially designed for joining steel parts, which is based on tin and lead;
  • cable made of steel;
  • metal tube.

When choosing a soldering iron to work with stainless steel, you should opt for a tool with a power of 100 watts. Using a more powerful device to perform such work is simply impractical.

The process of soldering stainless steel parts is performed according to the following algorithm.

  1. First of all, it is necessary to carefully clean the place of the future connection, for which sandpaper or a file is used.
  2. After preparing the surfaces of the parts to be joined, it is necessary to apply a flux to them, which, as mentioned above, is soldering acid. The main task of the flux is to ensure high-quality tinning of the parts to be joined.
  3. After the surfaces of the parts to be joined are treated with flux, they must be tinned, which consists in applying a thin layer of solder consisting of tin and lead to them. If it was not possible to perform tinning the first time, then it is necessary to repeat this procedure, preheating the parts to be joined.
  4. Even after heating the products and re-treating them with flux, tinning may not be successful - the solder will simply roll off the surface of the parts, and not fall on them as a thin film. In this case, it is necessary to use a brush with metal veins, which is easy to make from a tube and. Before using such a brush, it is also necessary to apply flux (soldering acid) to the surface of the parts, and only then, heating the place of the future joint with a soldering iron, clean it with a metal brush. Such a simple technique allows you to effectively clean the surface of a stainless steel from an oxide film, which, as a rule, is the main obstacle to high-quality tinning.
  5. After a thin layer of tin has been applied to the products to be joined, you can begin to solder them. This procedure is performed using a soldering iron and solder, which fills the joint between the parts.

Solder types

Products from stainless steels can be soldered both with soft solders made on the basis of tin and lead, and with hard types of filler material, which includes more refractory metals.

Soft solder, due to the fact that its base is tin, is a low-melting material, characterized by high plasticity and fluidity in the molten state. What is especially important when performing soldering of stainless steel products, it has a good deoxidizing ability.

More reliable connections both in production and at home can be obtained by soldering using hard solders. The metals from which they are made melt at a higher temperature than tin, which makes it possible to obtain reliable and durable joints with their help. Very often, materials of this type are produced on the basis of technical silver, which can contain up to 30% in their composition.

One of the popular types of hard solder is HTS-528, which is successfully used for soldering not only stainless steel, but also copper, brass, bronze, nickel and other metals. It is convenient that it is produced in the form of a rod, the surface of which is already covered with a layer of flux. When working with such solder in a production environment or at home, it should be borne in mind that its melting point is 760 °.

Flux preparation

When soldering stainless steel, you should be very careful about choosing a finished flux or formulating it. self-manufacturing. The classic composition of the flux, which can be prepared at home, includes the following components:

  • borax (70%);
  • boric acid (20%);
  • calcium fluoride (10%).

For soldering products that differ small size, you can prepare a flux that will consist only of borax and boric acid mixed in the same proportion. Having mixed the components of the flux in a dry form, it must be diluted with water and the place of the future connection should be treated with the already obtained solution.

To perform high-quality stainless steel soldering, you should use the recommendations of experienced professionals.

  • The power of the soldering iron, which should effectively heat the metal to be joined, is in the range of 60–100 W, but it is better to opt for a hundred-watt device. To solder large parts, such as stainless steel pipes, you will need not an electric soldering iron, but a gas burner.
  • When choosing an electric soldering iron, it is better to opt for models equipped with tips that do not burn.
  • The most economical and versatile type of solder, which allows you to get high-quality connections of stainless steel products, are tin-lead rods. In the event that you have to solder dishes that will come into contact with food or liquids, it is better to use pure tin as a solder, which does not contain harmful impurities.
  • The room in which soldering work is carried out must be well ventilated.
  • When soldering, be sure to use personal protective equipment so as not to harm your health.

What else you should know about brazing stainless steel

In cases where special requirements are imposed on the solder joints of stainless steel products, special grades of solders can be used, which include materials made on the basis of nickel and phosphorus, as well as nickel, chromium and manganese. Solders of the second group are used, in particular, in cases where soldering is performed in a protective gas environment consisting of a mixture of argon and boron trifluoride. When performing soldering using this technology, pure copper can also be used as a solder, which wets the metal well and forms a reliable connection.

Solders made on the basis of nickel make it possible to obtain joints with high strength. Meanwhile, such materials also have disadvantages, which include low plasticity. That is why such a filler material is not used to connect stainless steel structural elements that will be subjected to shock and vibration loads during their operation. In addition, a brazed seam made of such a material is very critical of low temperatures. Soldering with solders of the nickel group, which melt at a temperature exceeding 1000 °, can be performed in an environment of dry hydrogen, argon and in a vacuum.

Thus, the soldering of stainless steel products (oversized pipes operated under pressure, dishes, furniture or interior items) has its own nuances, which must be taken into account when choosing both soldering modes and consumables. There are many reference books, guided by which, you can optimally select everything necessary materials and get a high-quality, reliable and beautiful solder joint.

Under a thin layer of enamel, either steel or cast iron is hidden. Cast iron pans are heavier and more expensive. But they heat up evenly, retain heat longer and are more suitable for extinguishing. Steel enameled pans heat up unevenly, so it is better to cook in them only liquid meals. Important nuance! Steel under the influence of high temperatures can be deformed. To prevent this from happening, choose pans with thick walls - from 1.5 mm or more.

Examine the pot carefully. There shouldn't be any cracks. Handles can also be made of enamelled steel and welded to the pan. Or steel and wood. You will not burn yourself, but over time, the fasteners become loose.

Glass lids are convenient because they usually have a hole for steam to escape. But keep in mind that over time it can rust, just like the screw holding the handle. It is necessary to take care of such covers more carefully. Be sure to dry thoroughly after washing. Finally, about the color of the enamel. A new, sparkling white pan does not absorb heat well. Therefore, choose dark enamel or dishes with a specially blackened bottom.

Technologies for construction and finishing works

Home ways to restore the enamel coating

How to restore bath enamel

What to do and what to do if a small piece of enamel coating breaks off in your bathtub? Most likely, the masters will not undertake to repair your bath, because the amount of work is too small and they will take little money from you, and it will be too expensive to completely update the bath!

At home, making a coating similar to a factory one will not work, because enamel is a firing coating that turns into a vitreous substance at a temperature of 800-900 degrees. Other coatings that are used when updating the enamel layer are paints of increased mechanical strength and water resistance. According to experts, such coatings are not durable: they are destroyed by exposure to cleaning and detergents.

Broken or cracked bathtub enamel can be restored in the following ways:

We clean the damaged surface with sandpaper, then rinse with gasoline and dry the surface. Then we put a layer of BF-2 glue on the crack, adding a little dry white to it. With a brush, evenly distribute this mass over the damaged area. After the layer dries, we repeat this procedure again. Repeat this procedure until the thickness of the adhesive is equal to the intact surface of the enamel.

We prepare a paste from filler and epoxy resin (such a resin is sold in a hardware store or on the market) in proportions of 1: 2. Mix the paste well and leave for a couple of days to give uniformity. The wounded area of ​​the bath is first dried, then degreased with acetone or gasoline. Mix the paste with a hardener (it is issued complete with epoxy resin), apply the resulting mixture to places where there are damages. You need to level the surface with a blade. The mixture will completely harden after 6-10 days, it is forbidden to use the bath all this time. The service life of such a patch is from 3 to 8 years.

A badly damaged bathtub will help to renew white nitro enamel and Supercement glue. Mix this mass in equal proportions by weight. Before we begin to cover up the cracks, the bath must be degreased with acetone or gasoline. The coating is rubbed with a thick layer into the surface until it is leveled.

Technology for restoring enameled coatings on bathtubs, sinks and dishes without special equipment

Putty for enamelled surfaces: kaolin 225 g, fine ground ruffled 60 g, calcined borax 40 g, sodium silicate powder 30 g, powdered glass 20 g, slaked lime 20 g, water 50-125 ml.

After thorough mixing of these substances in a porcelain cup, a homogeneous mass is formed. The cracked enameled surface is cleaned, degreased and rubbed with putty. Drying lasts 48 hours.

Putty for repairing damaged spots on enamelware is prepared as follows: 13 parts of casein, 4 parts of slaked lime, 10 parts of soda ash, 6 parts of sodium silicate, 15 parts of ground quartz, 5 parts of crushed glass, 50 parts of kaolin.

The putty is moistened with a little water before use and stands until the casein combines with alkalis. Then the putty is diluted to the consistency of batter, smeared on the places from which rust and grease must first be removed, and left to air dry.

At home, repairing a bathtub most often consists in lubricating the enamel chipped places with a composition prepared from epoxy resin with filler. Titanium white powder, talcum powder or dry enamel powder are suitable as a filler. Approximately for every two parts of the resin, one part of the filler (by volume) is taken. The resulting composition after mixing is kept for about 10 days, after which it becomes more homogeneous.

The defective area is cleaned of rust and degreased with gasoline or acetone, covered with an epoxy composition. The composition is applied no later than 20-30 minutes after mixing it with a hardener in a ratio of 1:10 and smoothed with a razor blade or spatula.

Complete curing of the composition occurs after 7-10 days. Then the influxes are polished with a fine-grained sandpaper.

This method is suitable for both partial and complete enamelling of bathtubs.

To restore bathroom enamel you will be helped by Supercement glue and white nitro enamel. Mix them in equal proportions by weight and rub the glue with the paint with a swab into the right place. After daily drying of the bath, once again apply the solution to the surface. So repeat 4 times.

Approximate consumption of glue 4 tubes (40 g each), paint 160 g.

Technology for restoring a smooth glossy surface and a uniform color coating on toilet bowls, drain cisterns, bathtubs and sinks with the elimination of microcracks on their enamel

A). The surface of the toilet bowl, sink or bathtub that you want to restore, make it smooth, glossy and eliminate the microcracks that have appeared, must be thoroughly washed and dried.

b). Then degrease with solvent or acetone.

V). Then dry again for 2-3 hours.

G). Choose an enamel (preferably nitro enamel used for painting cars) of the desired color shade and gently apply with a brush on a dry surface.

ARTIFICIAL ENAMEL. If the enamel has broken off on the toilet bowl, sink or bathtub, it can be restored using BF-2 glue and dry zinc white. White is mixed with glue to the state of a thick slurry.

Enamel restoration.

The damaged area is cleaned of dirt and rust, wiped dry with a clean cloth, washed with gasoline and dried. Then the prepared mixture is applied with a brush in three to four layers, allowing each layer to dry for about an hour and a half.

Bath enamel repair

An old bathtub with spongy enamel can be restored to its former neat appearance. First, the surface is well degreased with acetone (or solvent No. 646 or 647). Then a little white nitro paint is poured into a clean bath and rubbed thoroughly. This is done several times until the pores in the enamel are filled. Excess paint is removed with a swab moistened with solvent. The final layer of nitro enamel is applied from an aerosol can.

Bathroom enamel restoration

Bathroom enamel can be restored in this way: Supercement glue and white nitro enamel are mixed in equal proportions by weight. It is good to degrease the bathroom with gasoline, and then rub the glue with paint thickly with a swab. Let it dry for a day and apply another layer with a swab. So repeat four times. Approximate consumption of glue: 4 tubes (40 g each), paint 160 g. The coating is white, smooth and strong enough.

How to remove limescale

Heated vinegar can be used to clean the surface of a bathtub or sink from limescale.

Prescription tablets for cleaning and washing dishes, sinks, bathtubs, etc.

Take: borax 1200 g, tartaric acid 400 g, baking soda 150 g, lavender oil 1.7 g. Add water and mix all the ingredients thoroughly until a thick paste is obtained, then it is rolled out on the table and cut into pieces in the form of tablets.

Craftsman's advice: how to fix an enamel pan?

how to fix an enamel pot

A reader asked this question to the editor.

Personally, I prefer stainless steel cookware for cooking. And it’s easy to clean, and it looks great on the shelves, and durable - great-grandchildren will have such a thing, and already for repairs, you can not remember about it. The truth is more expensive than enameled. However, if the reader has a need for repair, we will get down to business.

Let's decide right away: those pans, rusted through large areas, it is better to hand them over to scrap metal. If the inner (black) layer of enamel has come through, you don’t need to do anything - it’s somewhat ugly, but the pan is still quite working. Do not fall for advertising of various spray cans with supposedly enamel! This is not enamel, but paint, and its solvents after "enamelling" long time stand out in food, and we need it?

But those favorite pots, bowls or mugs in which the metal is exposed or a through hole has formed (but not more than a few millimeters). it is possible to extend the life span. The method is old, well known and simple - tin tinning.

All that is needed for this is to find, buy or ask friends for a piece of tin. Please note: only tin and no impurities. In no case do not use solders for soldering, as they all contain lead, a poison that can accumulate in our body. There is no substitute for tin in food coating, except maybe silver or gold.

You will also need a “storm” (in the form of a powder), now you can buy it everywhere and, conveniently, in small bags.

The main tool for repair is a burner on a gas canister. You can, of course, use a powerful soldering iron, but from my own experience I know that you still need to be able to work with it during tinning.

First of all, you need to clean all exposed metal spots from rust with a sandpaper. Particular attention should be paid to the edges - it is better to peel off some of the enamel than to leave rust.

The second step is degreasing. Pour soda ash on a clean rag, drop water to slightly moisten the entire layer of powder. And with this powder, wipe the place of future tinning and the area around several times. In no case do not try to check the quality of stripping and degreasing with your fingers, because in this case the tin will not be taken. In general, all operations - from stripping to washing after degreasing under running water and wiping dry - must be done in rubber "surgical" gloves. And you will have a double benefit: a caustic substance will not get on your hands, and the repair site will become clean and completely ready for tinning.

Now you can fool around. Sprinkle a thin layer of borax powder on the prepared surface. Next, warm up the repair site in circles, starting from the periphery (along the edges) and firing towards the center. Watch out: when the storm begins to melt and smoke comes out of it, this means that the place has warmed up to the right temperature. Take a piece of tin with tweezers and place it on the place of tinning. Continue heating until the tin has spread all over the surface. Carefully inspect the work, you can even use a magnifying glass to identify areas that are not tinned. If there are such, repeat all the operations from the beginning - and you will succeed.

Do It Yourself (Spark) 1996-04, page 81

water) acetone 25% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution.

Polished furniture, as well as mirrors, shades of lampshades, window panes easily electrified, attracting dust. To get rid of this, wipe the surface with a composition of shampoo, some kind of antistatic agent and water, taken in a ratio of 4:1:8 (by volume).

In the repair and manufacture of furniture, wood usually has to be given one color or another (usually with the help of a stain), after which the painted surface is varnished.

Before staining, the surface is sanded with a fine-grained sandpaper, removing wood dust with a brush. The cross cut before staining is slightly moistened. The stain is applied with a brush without a metal ring. If necessary, repeat staining while the surface is damp.

The dried painted surface is covered with varnish or varnish, which is applied with a brush or a folded linen cloth, in which sheep's wool or foam rubber is wrapped.

When the coating dries, the surface is again sanded with fine-grained sandpaper and varnished two or three more times.

And so that the latter covers the surface with an even and thin layer, heat it in a bowl with hot water(be sure to remove the dishes from the heat).

BEHIND THE POTS

If an enamel pan is leaky, then it is not difficult to repair it. It is easy to solder a hole with tin, but for this you will have to free some area around the hole from the enamel, clean it well

loose edges with sandpaper, degrease them with some solvent (acetone, turpentine, solvent 646 or 649, etc.) and solder. But! The biggest disadvantage of this method is the need for chipping the enamel around the hole and the impossibility of complete, I would say 100%, tinning of the metal surface around the hole. All the same, there remains an edge not covered by tin, where intensive corrosion of the metal will proceed in the future.

With less losses, and without a soldering iron (although the latter is not available in every home and not everyone knows how to use it, and not always at hand there are tin, rosin, ammonia, etched hydrochloric acid necessary for soldering), the pan can be repaired, so to speak, dry method, riveting the hole with aluminum wire of a suitable diameter.

If this is done slowly and carefully, then the head of the rivet can be formed in such a way that it closes the surface exposed from the enamel around the hole. It is quite easy to repair non-enamelled dishes in this way, even for a non-craftsman.

Many housewives have a problem: how and with what to clean aluminum dishes?

First of all, let's say that in air aluminum is covered with a very strong film of Al 2 0 3 oxide. which protects the metal from further oxidation. But still, it is better to use aluminum pans only for cooking non-acidic and unsalted dishes (potatoes, various cereals, pasta). If you have welded aluminum pan acidic or salty food, which is also not forbidden, then pour it into enamel, glass or faience dishes. By acting in this way, you will save the film that has begun to break down (later the film will be restored under the influence of oxygen in the air and water). For the same reason in

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    We repair dishes

    Women's magazine » Recipes » The role of dishes in the formation of appetite

    The topic of repairing old dishes is relevant not only for poor citizens who cannot afford to buy a new bucket or pan. It may also be of interest to jack-of-all-trades. There are many ways to restore damaged surfaces of enameled products. It is better and more reliable to do this professionally in a factory. But if you have a desire to do it yourself at home - please try.

    The easiest way is to apply special enamel paints (glass enamels) to the damaged metal surface. They are applied to cast iron and steel products, for example, gas stoves, refrigerators, sinks, bathtubs, after all, on the dishes. To restore damaged enamel surfaces of household and utensils used at room or high temperatures (up to 300-350 degrees), use white enamel. Please read the instructions carefully before repairing. Clean the damaged metal surface with sandpaper, degrease with acetone or gasoline. Then apply enamel according to the instructions.

    Repair of enamelware

    Do minor repairs damaged enamel surface that will not come into contact with food, you can also use enamel paint produced in aerosol cans, for example, "Nitroenamel", "Enamel for baths", "White enamel". The damaged metal surface must be cleaned, degreased, dried, and then sprayed with a jet of paint from a can, be sure to follow the recommendations.

    The second method is more interesting and more reliable, but more laborious. To do this, you must have the following components (in mass fractions): casein - 12, liquid sodium glass - 6, borax - 10, quartz flour - 14, ground glass powder - 5. All components must be mixed well, add water and bring the mass to a doughy states. The damaged metal surface must first be well cleaned of dirt, degreased, dried, and then the prepared mass is applied to it, leveled and allowed to dry. The repaired surface will become waterproof and usable even in high temperature conditions.

    Soldering is a good way to repair cookware, but keep in mind that if you use lead-tin solder, the pan will no longer be edible. For more information on how to solder an enameled pan at home, watch the video.

    You can also repair food utensils at home. To do this, you need to have: an electric soldering iron, solder for connecting metal parts, soldering acid or flux. However, remember that only pure tin, whose melting point is 232 degrees, can be used to solder internal cracks in food utensils.

    If you are doing soldering for the first time, then before starting work, you need to tin the soldering iron itself. Clean its working end with a file or sandpaper and heat it up. Then quickly rub it on the rosin. After that, with a heated soldering iron, separate a small part of the solder, which will look like a droplet. In a circular motion, try to achieve uniform spreading of the tin over the surface of the soldering iron so that its end is covered on both sides with a thin layer of tin. If it didn't work, then you didn't clean it well. Try again.

    Before soldering, the damaged metal surface must be well cleaned of grease, rust, oxides with a file or sandpaper. Then lubricate the place cleaned and heated with a soldering iron with a flux using a brush or a wooden stick. When soldering food utensils, it is better to apply rosin to the cleaned surface. During soldering, the flux protects the metal from oxidation and creates conditions for better and more uniform spreading of the solder along the crack that needs to be soldered.

    Next, apply a drop of tin with a soldering iron and carefully smooth the surface to be treated with it, leading it back and forth with its end. After a drop of solder (tin) spreads over the surface, apply another drop of tin with a heated soldering iron and smooth it again.

    The melted solder will force the flux (rosin) out of the crack and take its place.

    Please note: if a blue oxidation film appears on the tinned surface of the soldering iron, this means that it has overheated. Cool the soldering iron and repeat tinning again. After cooling the sealed dishes, rinse them with water and wipe with a cloth.

    If a hole has also formed in the pan or bucket from which the enamel has broken off, then it can be sealed with a metal plate (patch), the size of which should be 5-10 mm larger than the hole. Clean its edges with a file or sandpaper, treat with rosin heated with a soldering iron and apply a thin layer of tin. Then strip the metal patch and treat with rosin. Attach it to the hole and slowly run a hot soldering iron over the edges.

    A metal patch can also be glued to the hole using glue of the BF-2, BF-4 brands, but it is not recommended to use them for gluing food utensils, since they are made on the basis of an alcohol solution of phenol-formaldehyde resin.

    For bonding metal surfaces BF-2 brand glue is considered the best. In addition to metal, they can glue metal to plastic, wood, glass. The surface of the product must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, dust, rust and grease with sandpaper, then treated with acetone or gasoline, and then glued. Glue should be applied in a thin layer with a brush. After application, it should dry for 40-60 minutes. Then you need to apply a second layer of glue and let dry so that it does not stick to your fingers. Then attach the plate to the hole and press it. Then heat the pot, bucket, other product glued by you for an hour in the oven, stove or on an electric stove.

    For bonding metal products, you can also use epoxy adhesives, which include (in mass fractions): epoxy resin (100), dibutyl phthalate plasticizer (10-40), quartz flour or aluminum oxide (10) and hardener (8-10).

    ENAMEL RESTORATION…

    Their drawback is that the glued parts must be heated at a temperature of 180-200 degrees for 2-3 hours to harden the glue. If such a temperature cannot be reached, then the product glued with epoxy glue can be heated at a temperature of 120-150 degrees. The adhesive will harden within 16-24 hours.

    Today in stores household chemicals There are many types of adhesives available. Universal are considered "Moment", "Stele", "Second 505", "Supercement". But before you buy, do not forget to carefully read the instructions.

    You can also eliminate a hole in household utensils, which you feel sorry for scrapping, in this way. To do this, you need a hammer that is well mounted on the handle, since a loose one will only spoil the work, and besides, it is dangerous to use it. As well as a hacksaw, a chisel, an anvil, a thick metal plate or rail, pliers, a vice for clamping parts during their processing, wire cutters to bite a thick (aluminum or copper) wire if there is no hacksaw or chisel.

    Prepare a rivet from aluminum or copper wire. To do this, clamp a piece of wire in a vise, and in their absence, with pliers, and with light blows of a hammer along the edges of the wire, make it a “hat”, like a nail. Insert the wire into the hole in the item you are repairing and lightly tap the edges of the wire on the opposite side with a hammer until the rivet closes the hole in the item. Wash the dishes and wipe with a clean cloth.

    Repair your pots and buckets, but remember that only materials that are harmless to health can be used as food utensils.

    Forum discussions :

    How can you cover up a chip on enameled dishes?

    Every day we consume milk, juices, use various vinegars in cooking and do not even think about the fact that all this makes it possible. food enamels for storage of food and alcohol-containing products. In this area, special requirements are imposed on edible paints, because they come into direct contact with food. This means that they have a double task: not only to prevent corrosion of the base metal, but also to prevent the release harmful substances in food, drinks, wine.

    In fact food industry replete with corrosive agents. This and various acids, such as citric, lactic, malic and tartaric, alcohol-containing products, oils and fats. It must be remembered, however, that most food acids are strong electrolytes, which means that electrolytic corrosion occurs, which can lead to rust through the welds. Food colorings used for coating the internal surfaces of concrete and steel tanks, distillation and distillation columns, and other food apparatus can withstand fairly high temperatures, while maintaining their protective properties. Enamels for storage of food and alcohol-containing products are highly resistant to detergents, fresh and salt water. These properties are achieved due to the low content of volatile substances in the coating. Also, these paints and varnishes can be used in everyday life, and not only in the kitchen, where each of us has an enamel pan. They are useful for any business. Food-grade enamels can be used to cover a cracked bath, to cover the ceiling and walls in pools or baths. The list of their applications is practically unlimited. In addition, they have a long service life, subject to the rules of use.

    Nothing is permanent in our changing world. Humanity can discover new sources of energy and forget about oil, invent nano fabrics and forget about the textile industry, but the only thing that a person will always need is food. So and edible paints, enamels for storing food and alcohol-containing products (such as B-EP-5297, or the complex food KhS-010, KhS-558, KhS-76) as an integral part of the food industry will always be in demand on the market. In order for a person to enjoy the taste of food, juices, wines, beer and other drinks without the taste of rust and chemical additives.

    When your favorite pot leaks, you can bring it back to life by sealing the hole. In the same way, you can extend the service life of any metal kitchen utensils (kettle, water bucket).

    Hole in the pan: how to solder

    To fix a hole in your favorite pan with soldering, we need:

    1. Prepare patch material (copper plate)
    2. Clean surfaces (sandpaper / file)
    3. Perform degreasing and soldering (gasoline / acetone / solder / flux / soldering acid / soldering iron)

    And now about all this in order.

    1. PREPARATION FOR WORK

    In the case of a small hole in the pan, you will need quite a bit of aluminum wire and tin solder. Larger holes are patched with the imposition of a copper patch on the leaky section of the dishes. This is the main secret of how to repair an enamel pot. For soldering using a copper plate, the cut out patch should be slightly larger than the size of the hole in the pan.

    2. SURFACE CLEANING

    When all necessary tools and consumables are prepared, you can start cleaning the surfaces. For this we use:

    • needle file
    • file
    • sandpaper

    Surfaces must be cleaned of plaque, rust, scale, corrosion, etc. If soldering is performed with a copper patch, platinum is cleaned to a shine.

    3. DEGREASING OF SURFACES

    The next step is to treat the surfaces with a solvent, gasoline, acetone, and then with a flux (which will remove all remaining contaminants and oxide films). If flux is not available, it is wise to replace it with "soldering acid"/"soldering fluid" which is freely available at any specialty store.

    4. SOLDERING

    The soldering iron is heated and lowered with a sting into rosin or ammonia to clean oxide films. When a light haze appears, know that the soldering iron is ready to go!

    We touch the solder with the tool until the soldering iron tip is covered with a characteristic film.

    We repair dishes

    Having captured a little solder, we transfer it to the place of soldering, level it along the edges of the hole in the pan (from the outside and inside). Thus, we tinned the places of future soldering.

    In the same way, pieces of solder are gradually transferred to the place of the hole, with which the hole in the pan is sealed. Small gaps can be completely filled with solder.

    In the case of overlaying a plate (to repair an enamel pot), solder is surrounded by the nearby surface of the hole, and a copper plate is placed over the solder. For better bonding of metals, the plate must also be heated from above with a soldering iron. It is important to ensure that the surfaces of the patch and the pan are in contact as tightly as possible. The resulting gaps are filled with solder.

    5. PREPARATION FOR USE

    After the solder has cooled and the pan has been patched, the surface of the patch can be cleaned with the same sandpaper to give the soldering place a neater look.

    Additions and notes

    When soldering aluminum pans, they proceed a little differently. After cleaning the surfaces, they are immediately filled with a pre-prepared melt of rosin.

    This will avoid the formation of oxide films, which appear on aluminum products in a matter of seconds.

    In addition, to solder an aluminum pan, you will need a more powerful soldering iron (minimum 100 watts). As a solder, a mixture is needed:

    • 80-95% tin
    • 5-20% bismuth

    As a flux, stearin / paraffin should be used.

    In general, sealing a hole in an aluminum pan (repairing an enameled pan) is only slightly more difficult than in a copper or metal one. Show patience and endurance, and the desired result will not keep you waiting. The reward will be a repaired pan, which can be used for its intended purpose for many years to come, instead of going to a landfill and a metal collection point!

    There is no doubt that enamelware is one of the most sustainable kitchen utensils. In addition, it is inexpensive, very comfortable and beautiful. It is good for cooking and storing food. The coating prevents 100% the interaction of ferrous metals used as a base with alkalis and acids, which the products possess.

    Enamel repair on dishes - is it possible to solder the pan

    In addition, harmful bacteria do not linger on the enamelled surface. This is one of the few reasons why housewives tend to buy a set of pots with a similar coating.

    The production process itself, which produces enameled pans, is quite complicated. It consists of many stages, from stamping a metal base, to the very coating with a vitreous composition. The composition itself is an opaque, liquid-like consistency of crushed glass. During heat treatment, it melts, and when cooled, it turns into a durable coating that protects food and food from contact with metal.

    In production, enamel is applied to the surface of the base by means of a spray gun. In this case, the dishes themselves rotate on a special table. This is necessary for uniform application of the vitreous composition. Upon completion of the application, all the dishes are sent to the oven, where, under the influence of high temperature, the composition melts, hardens and acquires its final transparent-colored structure. The manufacture of hand-painted dishes takes place in several stages. Application of the first layer of coating and its firing. Drawing directly. Recoating over the enamel pattern, followed by firing.

    However, those who decided to buy pans covered with enamel noticed that the coating is rather fragile. It is afraid of tapping and strong blows. And this means that it is necessary to handle the dishes quite carefully and carefully so as not to provoke the appearance of chips, cracks and scratches. Few of the housewives pay attention to the appearance of such defects. Many people continue to cook food in dishes with bare black metal. And this is a direct way for harmful compounds to enter the dishes.

    The reason for this attitude lies in the excessive thriftiness of our women and ignorance. Many people feel very sorry to throw away a beautiful pan. After all, the money was not paid for.

    And so they continue to cook. Those who are more aware of the dangers of metal contact with food are trying to restore the enamel in various ways available. But this is also the wrong approach, since it is not able to restore all the original properties of the coating.

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