How to make a single bed from a corner sofa. How to make a folding sofa for your home with your own hands: drawings, diagrams, photos. Bench or bench

Sofas that can transform into a full-fledged double bed are gradually replacing standard beds from apartments, especially small ones. After all, they are more compact.

An important factor is a wide selection of finished products that can fit into any interior and decorate it. They have standard sizes and have a high price, so sometimes it becomes necessary to make a non-standard sofa bed with your own hands.

What is a sofa bed

The sofa bed is a symbiosis of two separate pieces of furniture. When folded, it performs the function comfortable sofa for relax. After the transformation, it turns into a comfortable sleeping place, which can easily be used by two people.

The shape of the sofa bed can be angular, straight, round, modular. Thanks to the installation of a folding mechanism in the sofa, the furniture is transformed into a double bed.

Device and dimensions

All sofas come off the assembly line in standard sizes:

allowable length - 120-190 cm;
width - 55-70 cm;
armrest height - 10-40 cm;
back height - 20-70 cm;
seat height - 40-45 cm.

Before you start making a sofa with your own hands, you need to study in detail the device of numerous types of this product, which is directly related to the folding mechanism:

The book is represented by metal corner plates that connect the seat, back and armrests. They have been familiar to everyone for many years. The sofa-book unfolds by lowering the back from vertical position to horizontal. It is necessarily equipped with a linen box and requires some space against the wall for transformation. For this reason, the product is placed with a slight indent or pushed back a little before being turned into a bed.
Click-clack is a kind of book, but instead of soft upholstery, the base is made up of a metal frame and slats. The mechanism got its name because of the characteristic sound that is heard during unfolding. The advantage of the design is the additional moving armrests that lower and lengthen the bed. When folded, click-clack takes much less space than a book. In addition, the backrest can be fixed in the “half-sitting” position.
The accordion is transformed by pushing the seat forward, which, in turn, pulls the back folded in half. When folded, such a sofa takes up little space, and after unfolding it triples. The accordion mechanism is durable and reliable. Often manufacturers supplement models with removable covers.

Meralat, or French cot, - compact sofa. The sleeper is hidden inside it under a seat attached to one segment. Unfolding occurs by lifting the seat from the backrest and turning it forward, supported by steel legs. Pinned with reverse side seat one segment pulls the rest, and the sofa can increase 3 times. There are models in which the seat is represented by pillows and unfolding occurs after they are removed.
Sofas with a berth, which is located under the seat. They are pulled forward by means of a roll-out mechanism. Then the segment rises up, and the backrest lowers to a horizontal position.

When choosing any type of sofa for home production, you must first purchase a transformation mechanism and study the drawings for its installation and use.

How to make a sofa bed

Before proceeding with the production of a piece of furniture with a hidden bed at home, you need to measure the available area for its installation and determine the maximum width of the sofa. Based on the data obtained, a detailed drawing of the product is developed with assembly diagrams of the constituent elements.

To understand how to make a sofa bed, consider the process of making a book.

Based on standard sizes, acquire:

boards 190x20 cm long - 2 pcs., 80x20 cm - 2 pcs., 80x50 cm - 2 pcs., 100x50cm - 12 pcs.;
timber 5x5 and 6x4 cm;
sheet of fiberboard, plywood or chipboard;
wooden or metal legs (if provided by the drawing);
filler (foam rubber, spring blocks);
cloth fabric for upholstery and sheathing of the frame and armrests;
mechanism "book";

In addition, you need to prepare a measuring tool, a pencil, scissors, a screwdriver, electric jigsaw or hand saw, fasteners.

Frame assembly

It is necessary to start manufacturing with the assembly of the linen box. To do this, fold a rectangle of 2 long and 2 short boards. Strengthen the corners of the structure with 4 bars 20x5x5 cm, placing them outside and pushing the short side boards 5 cm inward. Additionally, 2 rails are installed across the box. The bottom of the box is sewn up with a sheet of fiberboard or plywood.

At the same stage, you need to paste over the outer part of the box with synthetic winterizer and upholster it with a cloth. To do this, use a long canvas equal to the perimeter of the entire box, width - 30 cm.

At the next stage, you need to make the back and seat yourself. According to the scheme, they have the same size 189x65 cm. For the manufacture, a 6x4 cm beam is used, in which it is recommended in advance milling machine make grooves for the slats. Fastening can be done without grooves, directly on top of the timber.

Seat upholstery

The fabric upholstery of the seat follows the same pattern as the backrest. The slats are covered with foam rubber and sheathed with fabric. To form a flat bed after unfolding, the thickness of the filler must be the same in both parts.

In the places of the future location of the transformation mechanism, the fabric is not nailed, but left to hang freely.

Back upholstery

To create the soft part, foam rubber with a thickness of at least 6 cm will be used. The thicker the filler, the softer the upholstery will be. Since lamellas are located in the center of the back, pre-cut foam rubber sheets are glued around the perimeter directly to the timber. In order to avoid problems with the installation of the folding mechanism in the future, pieces of 5x10 cm are immediately cut out in the corners in those places where the back and seat will be connected.

Then a piece of fabric is laid on a flat surface, which exceeds the size of the back by 25-30 cm. A blank is placed on it with foam rubber down. Around the perimeter of the entire product, the fabric is carefully wrapped and slightly stretched to avoid the formation of wrinkles. Fastening is carried out using a construction stapler.

Hinge installation and assembly

The next stage of production is the installation of the “book” mechanism. The back and seat are laid side by side, keeping a gap of 10 mm between them. You can insert something to prevent the parts from shifting towards each other. Then applied to the corners metal device. The mechanism is attached to the wooden frame with self-tapping screws.

To install the upper part of the sofa, you must first drill holes in the center of the side walls of the linen box. After placing the back and seat in the right place, you need to connect them with the bolts included in the kit. The holes in the mechanism and the boards must match.

armrests

For the manufacture of armrests, a frame is first assembled from a bar. Then, a blank cut from fiberboard or plywood is screwed to it with self-tapping screws. The upper part of the part is softened with felt and foam rubber. A synthetic winterizer is glued over the entire plane and upholstered with a cloth.

When the armrests are completely ready, they are screwed to the bars that were previously installed at the corners of the linen box.

What do you do with old furniture?

In order to make furniture, you need to create a drawing, it will also be impossible to make a sofa without this stage. It is not necessary to purchase expensive materials for sofas, including timber with a large cross section or laminated boards. It is not recommended to equip complex spiked joints, since only a professional carpenter is able to make them. It is not worth using nails as fasteners, since such connections will loosen pretty soon and the sofa will creak. Self-tapping screws will best solution. Additionally, you need to apply glue.

Making a corner sofa

In order to make the corner design of the sofa, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

Figure 1. Schematic drawing of a sofa, the dimensions of which can be adjusted depending on the dimensions of the living room.

pine timber 30x50 mm;
5 and 15 mm plywood;
lifting mechanism;
3 mm fiberboard;
16 mm chipboard;
legs in the amount of 9 pcs.;
20- and 40 mm foam rubber;
upholstery fabric;
holofiber;
synthetic winterizer;
batting,
hacksaw;
miter box;
stapler;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver

Figure 2. Drawing of a sofa with measurements.

On fig. 1 shows a schematic, the dimensions of which can be adjusted depending on the dimensions of the living room. Work should begin with the unfolding of the elements, including: frame, backrest, armrests, seat. Assembly must be done in the following order. The armrests must be the same, and they are assembled using self-tapping screws.

You can deal with the frame of the left side by preparing two sidewalls, to which the longitudinal bars are strengthened, and after that - the racks. The latter should be reinforced with transverse ties. Now you can proceed to the installation of the seat of the left side. It is necessary to carry out the installation of the seat frame. As soon as the frame is installed in the frame, plywood needs to be strengthened from above. After that, you can fix the fiberboard to the back of the left side. At the next stage, you can proceed to the installation of the right side.

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Folding product under the Japanese futon

For the manufacture of a sofa, the frame of which can be sheathed or ennobled with Japanese futons, pine furniture boards.

The main modules, seat and back have frames that are mounted by connecting two side walls in front and behind with the help of boards. To the elements that are located along, it will be necessary to strengthen the base for the mattress, which includes transverse slats.

Figure 3. Dimensions of blanks that need to be prepared before starting work.

On fig. 2 you can see the design drawings with dimensions. And fig. 3 contains the dimensions of the blanks that must be prepared before starting work.

Using a drawing and a circular saw, you need to cut the material. Corners are recommended to be processed with a jigsaw, smoothing the edges with fine-grained sandpaper. Before starting the installation, the elements must be coated with acrylic varnish, and then left for a while to dry. The side parts of the seat must be connected to each other by longitudinal boards, using 2 dowels planted on glue. The furniture coupler will allow to give to a design additional rigidity. The same technology should be used to assemble the back of the sofa.

Swivel joints must be equipped with bolts and hex nuts. To the longitudinal elements of the back and seat with screws and glue, you need to strengthen the bars 30x30 mm.

In the holes of the longitudinal boards with a diameter of 10 mm, you need to install bushings, which are borrowed from furniture sets. M5x80 screws should be installed in them. You can mate the swivel joints of the legs with 80 mm screws. The slats need to be fixed with a belt tape, for which you should press a segment to the workbench with clamps, which will act as a stop.

The seat and back frames must be bolted together. In order to get a strong connection of the sidewalls of the back, you need to glue the bars and press them with clamps until the drying is complete. The cross rails are mounted on screws, which must be fixed one at a time on both sides.

With the help of a self-prepared drawing, you can make any sofa, but it is better to entrust cutting to professionals in their field.

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, the sofa is a very complex product, one of the most complex in furniture production, therefore, the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, relatively little functionality and not very strong and durable. This publication is intended to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will pass on to their grandchildren, unless they have to be pulled over. And designed for rooms with the widest range of conditions of use: from a garden gazebo to a kitchen and a children's room.

It is not as difficult as it might seem, and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for summer cottages, nurseries, temporary use, until the money is collected for furniture) is quite possible in the garage, shed and even on the balcony. Furniture makers of the old days worked that way. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the design of the furniture is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions, during its manufacture, can almost always be replaced, albeit more labor-intensive and requiring skill with more ingenuity than a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor, but produced hand tool.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is a corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially evident in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping and living sofa-corner, pos. And in the figure, folded, it has no sleepy look and the most terry orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (in the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded, it turns into a double bed. These are also called sofas for bachelors: I’m tired, I’m not up to it - I’ll fall asleep on a single bed. And another (or forever the only) passion came - enough space for two to get settled, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, nothing complicated: uniformly designed and put together a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in the corner is not only Bad sign, but also inconvenient, therefore, in last years the corner seat is increasingly being replaced with a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The scheme of the device of such kitchen corner shown in fig. below. You can dine alone on it if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and wardrobe trunks (the so-called sofa boxes) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of homemade products, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam scheme (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections - according to the place in the room; other dimensions are typical, see below. The material of the sidewalls is a hardwood board 40 mm or chipboard 36 mm. The bottom of the sofa - chipboard 12-16 mm on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a board 30 mm, bars 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm (shelf supports). Assembly - on self-tapping screws, dowels and a half-tree tie-in, all with PVA gluing or Moment. Materials at current prices require no more than 3,000 rubles.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (bearing) structure, most often including a drawer, a bed - sofas, in the presence of a lifting drawer, back and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism is added to them and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a box. Typical dimensions of the sofa:

Length - 1200-1900 mm.
Sofa width - 550-700 mm.
The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
Back height, no add. pillows - 200-700 mm.
Back tilt - 5-20 degrees.
The height of the "sitting" surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

Legs - 50-70 mm.
Carrier frame - 50-100 mm.
Box - 150-250 mm.
The bottom of the sofa (with frame) - 55-75 mm.

Thus, up to 120 mm remains for the soft stuffing with lining. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work on making a sofa is its stuffing, sheathing and tightness. These are different production operations; each of them individually and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves in Runet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with non-woven materials (fleece, etc.), which are short-lived in themselves. Secondly, they are fitted according to a simplified system with turning the corners from the inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the skin. And most importantly, according to this method of work, there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for tightening; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, you need a serious preparatory work. Its essential subtleties will be described later; beginners are advised to fit the sofa in the old amateur way with a saddle fitting. The pros don't work much for them. it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of prosperity?), when it was necessary to sign up for furniture upholstery for a year, and even give a bribe, it was also successfully used by “full dummies”. The sofa is stitched step by step as follows:

The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (can be propylene);
Install soft padding, most often - foam mats;
They fit soft, in order of preference, spandbond, synthetic winterizer, batting;
On a piece of decorative fabric, the backstage is swept under the cords, if decorative scars / tightenings are provided, see below;
A decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown onto the product inside out, pulled off as described below, and the corners are swept with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with a scar outward;
After a day, they check if it wrinkles somewhere, if it sags, if the pattern, especially geometric, has led, and if necessary, correct the corners;
If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
Pull cords into the backstage for tightening, if necessary;
They throw a cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
After another day, they check according to the drawing, adjust the tension threads ;;
Everything is OK - fix the lapels;
Form decorative ties.

The procedure, as you can see, is quite complicated and long. This is explained by the fact that the properties of tissues, incl. upholstery, differ markedly within the piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience, now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Home-made templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the consumption of tissue. A rough estimate according to the method: the length of a cut 150 cm wide is equal to 2 sofa widths + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the cut length using templates (allowance - from 15 cm) saves up to 1 m in length (!); how much it is in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if a sofa is being reupholstered, it is undesirable to use the old sheathing as a pattern. Under a microscope or a magnifying glass, it is clearly seen that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same, from the same machine, jacquard or tapestry.

Additional explanation is also required. 1-3. If you fill the skin hastily, wood-glue-synthetic winterizer-foam rubber-decor, then after a while it will turn out that the skin is greasy, to the touch, especially in summer, sticky, and the dearest parts of the body are uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what is this life span for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads from below and from above to wick away fumes/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and box, if the design of the item does not provide for any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. The lapels of the fabric at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection, because. vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads hold extra. fasteners, see below.

Note: the famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of silent blocks in the tracks came to his mind when he was repairing his sofa. It is not surprising that a rich man himself was busy with furniture, Christie was an engineer of the second kind. The Ι clan shifts papers at the table, and the ΙΙ-th can do with his hands everything he has thought of.

A sofa is installed on the box and its lifting mechanism(in the simplest case - piano / card loops and a cord-limiter). Perhaps the sofa will be stiff with the mattress loose on it. In any case, the sofa is also upholstered in advance separately.

A special case is office sofas, etc., operated in adverse conditions with the possibility of inaccurate use. Their carrier system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for amateurs to use the connections shown there with confirmations obliquely. In the presence of special equipment and tooling, "oblique screws" are economical and technologically advanced and therefore are widely used in industrial production furniture grades to medium. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, it is problematic, if not impossible, to drill very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and immediately in 2 mating parts. And self-tapping screws that have parted to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple sofa of a beam scheme is shown in fig. It fits best in the gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, pillows are brought / taken away as they are used, and the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (it can be worked out) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion before assembly. Finishing - acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

To the dacha, where the rain still does not pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a home-made sofa of a simplified beam system, its device is on the left on the trail. rice. Its basis is strong sidewalls-armrests and a pair of transverse beams. Completes the box-bridge power circuit; in this case, necessarily with 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

Armrests - plywood 20-24 mm with overlays from the board at the top (so that they are wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen), chipboard 30-36 mm.
Drawer - oak / beech board 30 mm; bottom - plywood from 6 mm.
Leg beams - any industrial wood.
The back is the same, a shield, (300-400) x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled, this method will still come in handy for us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to beams made of timber, but also to the sidewalls from the inside in a zigzag (snake) with a step of 120-150 mm with an indent from the edge of the board by 30 mm. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a larger proportion of dynamic sign-variables, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to fill up the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon loosen. According to this scheme, assembled children's sofa With drawers, shown on the right in the figure; box assembly diagram down there on the right. The material of all valleys is oak/beech 30 mm; sidewalls and the bottom of the sofa plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - on glue.

Note: it is not worth using laminated chipboard - only the E0 phenol class is acceptable for children's furniture, but this material is rather fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to raise a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, it will not work to lift the sofa back: the back is in the way. It remains to move forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the hostess is not a tall two-meter tall, how can she put / get something? To roll over entirely in a box and squeak, jerking slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly, not requiring high precision, the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique rhombus with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa couch with it, is shown in fig.

Note: the author knows a curious case with an oblique rhombus. A drunk but skilled man, making this ottoman, fenced off the cubbyholes behind the levers (they say, there is also some kind of mechanics) and arranged hiding places for bottles with the necessary swill in them. He even brought the tubes under the lining behind the back. And the better half is more than 10 years old, until he went into a deaf bogged down and did not split himself, and it was not clear why this day is a day drunk, and he does not run to the store for a bubble.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and in the professional world, innovative works appear all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for unfolding a classic sofa-book is a rather capricious thing. Either he wedges / seizes, then it’s hard for ladies’ hands to assemble / disassemble the sofa, then it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the chosen sample finds that in a rough-looking piece of iron there are curved surfaces made with a fairly high accuracy, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, lovers most often make sofa beds roll-out / pull-out.

Here, 2 systems are most common, with a retractable half of the free bed, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles' heel is the legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravitational ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break, a sofa that sags when extended will help.

The bridge scheme is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also be bedside tables. True, they will have to reach out to them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep with their feet forward.

The device of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge scheme is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper paired rollers (guides/stops) run in the troughs of the drawer. Pay attention to children. B. This is not some kind of additional checkmate, but simply decorative overlay. The surfaces of the sleeping halves A and B are, of course, flush. Half-bed A is often made leaning forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by an overlay C. Then small boxes D open. hidden caches and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: to transform a sofa into a bed, some extra free space is required behind the back. What does not happen with a small bedroom, and garbage accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console scheme are deprived of this vice, now for some reason they are completely undeservedly relegated to the background.

How a cantilever sofa bed is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional broadening of the console and an increase in the height of the back, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal twin bed). The excess width of the seat in the assembled form in this case is compensated by the pillows, which, when extended, form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the hozblok), they are stored in a box. Some inclination of the back is obtained due to the piano loop, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood pad under the bottom wing of the hinge.

The main materials are 50x30 bars and 4-6 mm plywood. On the basis of the armrests - cohesive waste building timber. The frame of the console is the same design as for the drawer. Connections - through spikes or met. corners, anyway. The height of the pillows is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, therefore, for use in normal conditions, it is desirable to increase the height of the console, and put the box on its legs.

About eurobooks

The concept of the euro is now as soon as not exaggerated. Moldovans, for example (they have experience of communicating with local migrant workers), dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk euros (to the bone, to death, to a green snake, blue devils and pink elephants), euros go to the toilet for the most part (no constipation or diarrhea). And the usual folding sofa bed is now often on sale for a reason, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but the click-clack-type eurobook sofa (see fig.), This is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To get a double bed, the armrests and backrest sides also recline. How to call them is not clear. It doesn't look like headrests. Sidebars, right? When unfolded, triangular gaps are formed in the heads / legs, which are blocked by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to expand the click-clack into a bed, at least 0.7 m of free space is needed along its contour. Where to get it? Unless in a studio apartment, the inhabitant of which is embarrassed to show that he is also sleeping here. However, such a state of mind is typical for the current, and not only the current, Europeans. One can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of a simple common sense sofa-book click-clack - well, him.

How to do?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill-cut? Well, let's get started. Just do not forget that what is fitted must be fitted before the general assembly. How to fit, we will discuss after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, the manufacture of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and box

Professionally handicraft, if I may say so, the supporting frame is assembled on deaf spikes with wedging and gluing. They give a completely hidden connection and furniture lives on such for centuries, but in order to make them, you need a hand-held wood router, skills in working with it or virtuoso possession of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inset legs, pos. 1 in fig. So it is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Cross section of beams from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 with glue.

The box is best assembled on the bosses of a triangular section from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened with box boards (oak / beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0) x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with gluing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you are not too lazy and assemble the box on the dowels before installing the bosses, a pair per joint.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the stapler's staples do not fit well into it, many bend and tear the skin; wallpaper nails - too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile, delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet, it can simply fail, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to drag the sofa, the bottom of the chipboard / fiberboard will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material is picked up so that you can’t attach a new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if a box is needed without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood the width of the length of the sofa are not produced. Pieces need to be connected so that the joint is kept on weight under the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are trimmings that are enough for the bottom.

In industrial production quality furniture plywood sheets are connected with a shaped hardwood plank, at the top at pos. 3. You can make a “cut” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its inner width). Fasten the gusset from the inside to the tsargs (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-beam of 50-70 mm planks with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner no less than plywood. It will give the beam rigidity, and without it, sheets assembled end-to-end, under workloads, will begin to delaminate each other mutually. Everything is assembled on small nails, fastened in a box like a gusset.

They connect the box to the frame (recall - after sheathing, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough not to crawl to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle for short and 2-3 evenly along the length for long sides.

Note: if the box is without bulkheads, the height of the back should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back side of the box will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (pos. 1 in the figure) is the side member A from a solid board (120-150) x40 mm. Most often, for the sake of simplifying the work, they make it a composite of sections, but it will be stronger in one piece. This is cut flush into vertical racks and placed first on dowels. It is also desirable to assemble the entire frame first on the dowels, and then fasten the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. Bosses in this case can simply be timber trimmings, tk. The interior volume of the back is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the base frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 - the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of bottom slab made of oak, etc. - from 40 mm. Together with the spar and rectangular parts of the uprights, it makes up the lower back belt. This is a very responsible node, because. the normal operating load of reclining people tends to tear it off the lower support.

The normal number of racks for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pcs. evenly in length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. captures the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the most extreme - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the back is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm or more. His "responsibility" is necessary when they stand on the back in order to reach something upstairs or when they drag the sofa by the back when moving furniture. Also here, the upholstery is most likely to crawl and wrinkle, so the upper beam is planed into the same plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can be pine.

The backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. So it is necessary to give the entire module the rigidity necessary for a strong connection with the support, but it is not necessary to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare pos. 2 and 3. The last one is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously degrades the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this back to the support? Self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards? How long will this sofa last until the back comes off?

Support connection

Assembling the backrest with support is just the case when metal fasteners needed in furniture. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the back details with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the box / frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads in the box / frame), 3 of those and those per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are also spring nuts under the nuts, it will not be possible to tighten them later!

Corners, on the other hand, need 2 for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of \u200b\u200bheaviest loads (to the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally below. Better 2, in case the sofa will be dragged behind the back. For attachment to the spar, it is better to use 60x40 unequal corners with holes in a narrow shelf arranged in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, DSV from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely fitted. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to put the upholstery folds into the junction of the backrest and the support, and it will not work to fit it after installing the armrests.

armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or frame, like a backrest. They are also fully completed prior to installation. The loads on them are less, therefore they are fixed from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm in an envelope or a snake to the box, and to the support 4-6 pcs. in a row.

Armrests of complex shape are most often made framed. In fact, technologically they are not so complicated, pos. And in fig. The decor on the inside reaches the lower edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional lathing of laths approximately 30x40 and inserts from boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The crate is cut into the back racks, and the inserts are fixed with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbar for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-tree tie-in with reinforcement with self-tapping screws on glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars must be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see fig.), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, 50 mm of foam rubber disappears in this case, but there is a significant advantage when tightening: staples / nails do not scratch the top of the box, and thanks to the extra bend, the sofa lining (the most loaded one) lies more evenly and holds on tighter.

Upholstery

The upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is made different ways, but they all have a common sore point - the corners. Form them with a turn, as in Fig. on the right, the method is common, but therefore no better. According to GOST USSR, tucked-in upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and stitching the corners of furniture fabrics is done in more than 2 ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second is for more prone to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But note that the numbers in Fig. indicative, fitting with a sketch is required!

Covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on turned inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (folds) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam, it is bent and left free during the firmware.

Next comes the tightening. If the corners are with tongues, then they level the sheathing with them, and the tongues are fixed. Then the cover is pulled with a harsh thread from the underside along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, pulling the threads, they achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is leveled immediately with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as it should be, the edges are fixed with an indent from the edge of the fabric of at least 5 cm. If the type of product allows, they are attached with a collar.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the box are upholstered, as shown in fig. The box is on 3 sides, the back remains open. So it is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press the fabric. In extreme cases, the sofa blank is placed on a pair of stools. Tightening the back just won’t work, because. it is already attached to the base. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of interface with the box, from under the bottom they are pulled on tragus, like a sofa, and for tightening from the sides, small nails will have to be temporarily driven into the support. Well, the armrests can be turned as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Separate cushions for the sofa are sewn in the same way as the blocks of a frameless chair:

The foam mat is sheathed with technical fabric;
The decorative cover is sewn inside out, the final (back bottom) seam is left unsewn;
2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastening towards each other;
Insert the foam block into the decor, fasten the zippers.

Tight fittings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the joints between them. A smooth sofa does not harmonize with any design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with ties, see fig. 2 options are also possible here, for less and more dense fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn on the edges of the cover under the tightenings, and the tightenings themselves are made when the cover is already fixed. According to the 2nd option, front wings (sleeves-tunnels) are stitched on the workpiece under the cords and an even stretch is achieved by pulling alternately the cords, then the tension threads of the cover.

beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is decorative scars, see fig. Under them, you also need to sew backstage, but it is better to fill them with a flexible stranded electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (vertical can be) wooden surface suitable size, even in the wall of a barn or a dog house.

The ends are stripped of insulation by 25-35 mm, twisted with a British twist (British, British, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the vein of the wire that inadvertently crawls out does not stick into a sensitive place, it is wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

One-piece sofa cover - this is the aerobatics of wallpaper business. However, suddenly a shabby but strong sofa of mahogany or Karelian birch is found in the attic of the grandmother? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect intelligent connoisseurs. If you talk to them with knowledge of the matter, then they will take a moderate fee and put your soul into the work.

In such a case, as they say in "1001 nights", know that the basis for tightening one-piece case– lines of pairing of a sofa with armrests and a back. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. Cords are brought out along the bisectors of flat corners (external) and trisectors of triple (internal) along the grooves in wooden frame and, for triple angles, through holes in it. The cords are moderately pulled, their ends are fixed and then they straighten and pull the cover.

Backstage for cords can be, depending on the design, facial or purl. The last case is the most difficult, the backstage seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: in general, the machine the main problem when upholstering a sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check if it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than #20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

And sooner?

As you can see, making a sofa and covering it is not a field to go over. Couldn't it be somehow quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, in new apartment? To sketch any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called - a sofa made of pallets. From building pallets - a pallet - they generally do a lot of things, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack made of pallets can be made much more convenient using the same principle as an adirondack garden chair, on the left in fig. A little more difficult of them is to build a rustic-style retractable sofa bed, in the center. And having applied (with a tool, not to a glass) stronger, you can get a sofa, about which you can’t immediately say that it is from a decommissioned container, on the right. For example, see which sofa was made, it seems, by a completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: do-it-yourself pallet sofa

It happens the same ... with sofas ...

Since we are talking about containers, then finally - a funny sofa. Comments are not required, what is in Fig. speaks for itself. And it is standing somewhere, sitting on it, lying ...

Everyone knows that cushioned furniture essential in every home. But there are people who cannot find a quality option for themselves from the store and decide to start making their own. The most basic step to this work is that you yourself will accurately make a model of the size that your living space allows.

Many people wonder what is a modular sofa? It is not difficult to answer, because this is a standard corner sofa known to all of us in its various representations. It would seem that it would be very difficult to assemble it on your own. But do not despair, even a beginner can cope with the task, the main thing is to have a desire.

It is possible to create an original design

It is worth noting that a self-made sofa immediately eliminates such shortcomings as:

wrong size;
irregular building forms;
inharmonious to the interior color design and decoration.

You can create semi-circular sofas or with an acute angle, it all depends on your imagination. It is important that in the end you will get the original model, which will be no worse than the store version, but at the same time it will cost several times cheaper.

Preparation for work

Before you start work and prepare all the necessary material, you need to prepare detailed drawings and diagrams. This stage will help to avoid mistakes in the work, in addition, you will be able to correctly purchase everything necessary materials avoiding extra costs. Dimensions can be taken on the Internet, but later change them to suit your room.

1 2 3

Then, in the hardware store, you should purchase the following materials for work:

plywood bars, chipboard;
furniture legs and lifting mechanisms;
foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, pillow filler;
upholstery for furniture;
jigsaw, drill, screwdriver;
construction stapler with staples;
screws and nails;
wood glue and PVA glue.

In order for a do-it-yourself modular sofa to turn out no worse than the store version, you need to cut out beautiful armrests. If you do not have experience in carpentry, then you should order a cutting from a professional who, according to the drawings, will make perfectly even models.

Sofa frame assembly

First you need to assemble the armrests. It would seem that the smallest details, but they require close attention during assembly. Since they should turn out perfectly even and symmetrical, you must clearly follow the instructions. Experts put a special bar between the sides of the armrest, which controls their size. All parts are connected using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

Next, you should assemble the frame of the sofa. You need to start with two bars of the same distance and thickness and connect them to each other with longitudinal bars. You need to connect it qualitatively and firmly, so that in the future the sofa does not loosen up and you do not have to repeat the procedure. Next, you should attach to the base of the board on which the back of the product will be held.

Fabrication of the frame Closing the oriented strand board

For additional strengthening, you can use wood glue.

After the actions taken, the resulting structure is upholstered with plywood sheets, forming a uniform box in which personal items or bedding can subsequently be stored. As soon as the frame is ready, immediately screw the legs to the product, otherwise it will be much more difficult to do it later.

Assembly of the rest of the parts

The backrest for the sofa is also assembled separately from the frame, in full accordance with the drawings.

The back is connected almost at the end

The retractable part is assembled, but at the moment it remains aside, since it has not yet been sheathed with material and a soft layer. Everything is fastened to self-tapping screws, and then interconnected in the following order:

back to frame;
armrests;
retractable part.

Sheathing and decoration

How to make a sofa soft and comfortable? This is much easier than assembling the frame and installing each element together. Decorating, as the final stage, brings more positive emotions, as the result actually becomes visible. At the same time, this stage is very important, because how carefully you finish the work will depend appearance new handmade furniture.

It is better to start with the armrests, since it is they that have to be aligned and given exquisite curves. The foam pads do an excellent job of making the armrests very comfortable and soft. We cover the seat with the same foam rubber. It should be carefully fixed with glue, otherwise she will walk while using the sofa for its intended purpose. When all the soft parts are wrapped with foam rubber, you can start covering the furniture with fabric upholstery.

The original design of the armrests of the sofa

The fabric should be chosen one that can serve you. long time without unexpected damage. Also, be sure to consider how often you will need to clean your sofa. If there are small children or animals in the house, you should upholster the furniture with breathable fabric, which makes it easy to get rid of dirt. Well, do not forget about the interior of the room for which the furniture is made. The upholstery must match it in order to create additional comfort.

A beautiful sofa serves as the main design element of any room. This is not just a piece of furniture, but also a visiting card of the whole house, to which the attention of the guests who have come is usually riveted. In specialized stores, such furniture, as a rule, is quite expensive. If you make a sofa with your own hands, it will cost much less. At home, making it is not at all difficult.

Nowadays, furniture items that combine unusual design, style and functionality are becoming increasingly popular.

Using a simple project, even a person who has never worked in the production of upholstered furniture can make a quality product. If in modern apartment such a sofa will not look very respectable, then in country house or in the country, it will perfectly fit into the local interior.

One example is a pallet sofa with drawers.

The main components of the product are:

frame;
back;
side parts;
fabric upholstery.

Such furniture can be made independently from improvised materials, giving it the look that you like.

The frame can be of any shape and size. For its manufacture, wooden slats and bars are used. To give the structure greater rigidity, sheets of plywood or chipboard are used. Assembly is carried out using a screwdriver. All joints are first smeared with wood glue, then wooden details tightened with screws. In addition, it is desirable to fix the joints with corner metal fasteners.

A beautiful sofa serves as the main design element of any room.

The frame for the mattress is made of boards. To give the product greater comfort, the supporting area of the frame can be made of interlaced furniture belts. First, the belts are mounted vertically on the frame, then a horizontal binding is made perpendicularly. Despite the fact that such a sofa does not use traditional steel spirals, it will spring perfectly. Therefore, it will always be pleasant to lie on it.

The corner bed looks more prestigious than the usual folding version.

The back is usually made hollow inside. It can be given a rectangular or sloping shape. To do this, the end width at the base increases, and decreases at the top. The side parts are made in the same way as the back. The top and the front side of the back are pasted over with foam mats. On inner sides the side parts of the foam rubber are also glued. Glue should be applied with a wide brush in an even layer. Until the adhesive has completely set, the foam sheets must be firmly pressed against the surface to be glued.

Independent production of home goods makes it possible to create an original design that fits perfectly into the interior of a particular room.

Fabric sheathing is performed according to prepared patterns or patterns. If you do not have them, they are easy to make yourself. To do this, the fabric is tried on for each element of the sofa, after which the necessary cuts are made. After covering all the constituent parts with fabric, the final assembly is carried out. Simple design such furniture is usually completed in three days.

For the manufacture of a rounded sofa, furniture panels are most often used. They are made from wood or thick plywood. Such material enables the round structure to cope with the required load. To fix the upholstery in the dimensions of individual parts, there must be a certain margin. It is desirable to make the lower soft parts under the skin multi-layered. Thanks to this, the sitting will be much softer and more comfortable.

The manufacture of a sofa-book should begin with the creation of individual frame elements of the entire structure.

How to make a sofa book

The manufacture of a sofa-book should begin with the creation of individual frame elements of the entire structure. This includes sidewalls, backrest, seat, laundry box. First, a linen compartment is made from the boards. This frame is reinforced at the corners with short pieces of beams, and from below it is supplemented with slats. For the back and seat, bars are also used, which are connected with self-tapping screws or special notched nails.

In the manufacture of the sofa, the following tool is used:

wood saw;
screwdriver;
plane;
hammer;
scissors.

For the back and seat, bars are also used, which are connected with self-tapping screws or special notched nails.

Wooden lamellas are screwed to the resulting frames. They should play the role of support for the mattress. After all the frames are ready, assembly is carried out. However, special mechanisms are needed here. You can buy them at the construction market or in the store. When installing the mechanisms between the folded parts, you need to leave a gap of about one centimeter.

The comfort and convenience of sitting on the sofa will depend on the quality of this element.

In this case, the sofa should be laid out. Due to the presence of a gap, it will fold and unfold freely. Before laying foam rubber, on top of the lamellas, you first need to stick interlining. This will enable the sections of foam sheets between the lamellas not to fall through. The surface will always remain flat. So that the sheets do not interfere with the operation of the folding mechanisms, the corners located near these parts are cut off.

However, special mechanisms are needed here.

A soft cushion is usually made on the edge of the seat. To do this, an additional foam strip is glued on top of the continuous layer. The lower edge of the strip is bent under the seat and also glued. The armrests are softened in the same way. A similar procedure is performed with the back. When the glue under the foam rubber is completely dry, the covers sewn to the size of the furniture are put on.

Making a corner sofa

First, the lower part is made, that is, the seat. The boards to be joined are fastened with self-tapping screws and corner plates. Chipboard sheets are screwed to the bottom of the resulting box. A separate frame is made for support. The supporting part is also covered with plywood. Behind you can pull a dense matter. The dimensions of the product are associated with the parameters and shape of the mattress.

When installing the mechanisms between the folded parts, you need to leave a gap of about one centimeter.

The steps for manufacturing an additional structure are similar. To connect the individual parts, it is done corner design. Usually it is made of the same material as the main elements. During the manufacture of this design, the angle of rotation should be taken into account. The back and supporting parts are pasted over with batting. The back side is covered with a dense cotton fabric.

Family members spend a lot of time on it.

The legs are usually made from square pieces of timber. For fastening to the lower frame, holes are drilled in the bars. After that, they are applied to the bottom of the frame and screwed with long screws. In the manufacture of such furniture, special attention should be paid to the design of the structure. If it is not done correctly, various deflections, deformations, and other similar flaws may appear in the future.

Behind you can pull a dense matter.

For the manufacture of furniture, the following materials are used:

board;
timber;
foam rubber;
furniture fabric;
wood glue.

If you decide to buy some unusual bed in a furniture store, then you may not be able to afford it. Original products are very expensive. It will be much better to make a custom sofa bed with your own hands. It requires bars, boards and plywood sheets of appropriate thickness. The back is assembled from planks and pieces of timber. The front part of the assembled frame is best sheathed with chipboard sheets.

The steps for manufacturing an additional structure are similar.

They are quite durable, and in stores building materials are inexpensive. It is desirable to treat the assembled base with a stain or varnish it. As a result, it will last much longer. Foam rubber sheets are used for the soft parts of the product. Fabric materials are attached to the frame with special wide-head nails.

Fancy sofas

Often they are made from improvised material. Especially if the product is intended for giving. The base and back of this furniture can be made from used door leaves. Details are cleaned of old coating and dirt, and then processed grinder. Then they need to be painted or glued with veneer. One door leaf is installed on wooden poles. The second sash is used as a back. It should be attached to the base at an angle convenient for you.

In a cozy home there is always beautiful upholstered furniture.

The mattress is cut out of foam rubber. The piece of material must match the size of the seat. The resulting blank is first covered with a dense fabric, then a beautiful fabric is put on top, having good quality. In the manufacture of such furniture, special attention should be paid to the reliability of the frame base. It should easily withstand the load that will arise from sitting on the sofa of several people.

Often they are made from improvised material.

Beautiful and cozy furniture for relaxation can be made with drawers in which it is convenient to store bedding and clothes. Due to the high functionality of the design, there is no need to additionally install a chest of drawers or a wardrobe in the bedroom. This will save living space, make the room more spacious.

The product includes the following components:

back;
seat;
a pair of armrests;
drawers.

It should easily withstand the load that will arise from sitting on the sofa of several people.

Each part of the product is knocked down separately. The back is assembled from long slats. To ensure the necessary rigidity, the planks are reinforced with short cross bars. To get a sloping back, the back slats must be longer and the front slats shorter. Chipboard sheets are installed on top of the resulting frame, which are then pasted over with foam rubber and sheathed with fabric.

A similar frame is mounted for the seat. Its only difference is that it does not have a beveled part. Armrests are attached to the sides. They should be screwed with long screws in several places. Drawers are frameless. Chipboards are also used as a material here. To make both drawers slide out easily, special mechanisms are installed on the racks of the frame.

Beautiful and cozy furniture for relaxation can be made with drawers in which it is convenient to store bedding and clothes.

After all the details are pasted over with foam rubber, a synthetic winterizer is laid on top of it. Further, to protect the soft material, the entire sofa is sheathed with a strong fabric. The appearance of the furniture depends on the quality of the final skin. If you want your product to look fashionable and respectable, you can use leather or a good leather substitute. Now there are a large number of such materials on the construction markets.

Use of improvised materials

From simple elements, you can make furniture that will easily fit into any interior. If the design consists of natural wood, the product will serve properly for more than one year. Worn-out covers or cloth lining, if necessary, is easy to replace. Today, those pieces of furniture that have an unusual design and style are popular. By making a product from improvised materials, it can be given the most unexpected exclusive look.

Each part of the product is knocked down separately.

Independent production of home goods makes it possible to create an original design that fits perfectly into the interior of a particular room. If your own product turned out to be fashionable, reliable and beautiful, you can be proud of it, brag to your friends. Creating your own furniture sets is within the power of anyone who knows how to use carpentry tools at least a little and has patience. To create an original furniture masterpiece, it is enough to turn on your imagination, show a little perseverance and diligence.

Chipboard sheets are installed on top of the resulting frame, which are then pasted over with foam rubber and sheathed with fabric.

In a cozy home there is always beautiful upholstered furniture. The dominant place, as a rule, is occupied by a luxurious sofa. Family members spend a lot of time on it. Here they play with children, sleep, arrange gatherings with close friends. Before production own sofa, you need to understand well which type of it will best meet the needs of all members of the family.

The most popular products are:

corner;
book;
dolphin;
with folding mechanisms.

A similar frame is mounted for the seat

This can also be attributed to the ottoman. This product is extremely simple. It does not have any folding mechanisms. Therefore, making an ottoman with your own hands is not difficult. It is advisable to choose a future bed, taking into account the place where it will be installed. Before starting work, you should take the necessary measurements, make preliminary drawings.

Carpentry rules

The corner bed looks more prestigious than the usual folding version. If you are doing this work for the first time, it is better to make the simplest craft that does not have any additional shelves and drawers. When assembling the frame, do not try to make tenon joints at the ends of the boards. Such work is carried out only by professional carpenters. It is not advisable to fasten individual elements with nails. Since the assembly is constantly loosened, over time the nails begin to loosen the fastening. It is better to use self-tapping screws or screws.

Now there are a large number of such materials on the construction markets.

From natural wood, coniferous species should be preferred. Their fibrous structure is saturated with resin, which protects the tree from decay processes. Thanks to this, pine products have a fairly long service life. Before starting the assembly, the finished elements must be carefully sanded. This will provide the necessary security for further work. It is desirable to cut materials outdoors, since a large amount of wood dust is released.

From simple elements, you can make furniture that will easily fit into any interior.

The frame is the main part. All other details are attached to it. When assembling the seat, you need to check the box for matching diagonal sizes. The correct shape of the box ensures the stability of the entire frame. All connections should be checked before sticking upholstery. If any joint staggers, it should be reinforced with additional screws or metal corners.