How to grow good and large carrots. Growing carrots - which beds to choose Carrots in high beds how to plant
October 29th, 2014 at 10:08 am
Hello Valery! Is it possible to mulch immediately with sawdust from horses soaked in urine, or do they need to mature?
October 29th, 2014 at 10:40 am
Svetlana, it is better to add such sawdust to the compost.
November 2nd, 2014 at 9:33 am
Valerie, hello. This summer I have accumulated 3 buckets of sawdust from an electric planer. They are larger than cut ones. Do you think they can be used for planting carrots? And how best to age them over the winter? There is manure, compost, what is better to mix with?
November 2nd, 2014 at 9:43 am
Alexey, mix with manure and hold for a year, you will have good compost, but they are not suitable for mulching.
November 24th, 2014 at 6:43 pm
Hello Valery. I came across your site and I really like it. I also have a 4 acre garden and I would like to use your advice, but I can’t subscribe to your site, help me. Yours faithfully, Irina.
November 25th, 2014 at 9:39 am
Irina, you can register on the forum, and ask questions in the comments.
January 1st, 2015 at 1:11 pm
Valery, I see you have beautiful, clean carrots. I have it the second year eaten by a carrot fly. The next year I made boxes 75 cm. I read that a fly does not fly above 50 cm. Will it help?
January 2nd, 2015 at 2:30 pm
Everything can be, but I don’t grow carrots in the same garden for two years, I always do a crop rotation, then mulching with sawdust can help.
January 7th, 2015 at 10:06 pm
Yes, Valery, everything is cool. The problem is that our oligarchs, too, may not shun GMOs. I believe that every farmer should collect his own collection of seeds. Do you have experience growing and harvesting carrot seeds? Sincerely, Alexander
January 9th, 2015 at 10:53 am
This year I grew a little, the main thing is that there would be no other varieties in the neighborhood.
February 11th, 2015 at 1:15 am
Tell me, Valery, I heard that you can not plant carrots, beets, radishes and other root crops in a warm bed, as they will accumulate a lot of nitrates, only next year. And I really want to make warm beds. What do you think of it?
February 11th, 2015 at 8:17 am
Galina, do not put fresh manure in the bed and there will be no nitrates.
February 15th, 2015 at 10:32 pm
Hello Valery. Can you please tell me from what tree species can sawdust be used?
February 17th, 2015 at 9:07 am
From any kind of wood.
February 18th, 2015 at 6:06 pm
Hello Valery. Through what (or how) to sow sawdust for beds?
February 19th, 2015 at 8:17 am
I sow only for mulching small crops, like carrots, through any mesh, the stores are full of both metal and plastic ones for fences.
February 19th, 2015 at 3:52 pm
Hello Valery. I am a novice gardener, tell me, if you sow carrots on sawdust (groove), then the weeds will not crawl through, but how does it crawl through itself-carrots?
February 20th, 2015 at 8:25 am
I do not sow on sawdust, but under them, the layer where I sow the seeds turns out to be small, but more in the aisles.
March 18th, 2015 at 8:22 pm
Valery, we change sawdust from the chicken coop once a month, there are sawdust from the chicken coop 3-year-old, which is better. They advise sticking carrots on toilet paper, and mixing others with sand and fertilizer.
March 18th, 2015 at 8:34 pm
A warm bed for carrots is 600mm, I basically have 500 row spacing of 650mm, I understood that in order to fit 3 rows of carrots, 600 are needed.
March 19th, 2015 at 11:46 am
Sawdust can be used for any mulching, but if they are with chicken manure, then old ones are better for carrots. Sticking seeds or mixing with sand are methods that help to sow the seeds at the right distance, this saves the number of seeds and removes or makes it easier to thin out seedlings.
March 27th, 2015 at 12:25 pm
Hello! Tell me how you do with spruce branches, clean up, don’t clean up, when to clean up?
March 27th, 2015 at 4:07 pm
I use it as a protection against cats and remove it as soon as the carrots begin to sprout.
April 15th, 2015 at 2:09 pm
Hello Valery. I read your article about sawdust mulching. I went to the sawmill and collected several bags of old sawdust mixed with last year's foliage, only there is one doubt - all sawdust in consistency already resembles dust that smells of earth and I saw them in places white coating mold-like. Question: I won’t bring any thread of infection to my carrot bed in a place with sawdust? Thank you.
April 15th, 2015 at 5:18 pm
You won’t do it, mold is mushrooms that destroy wood, it won’t harm carrots, I have all the old sawdust with mushrooms, sometimes they even grow in beds.
April 17th, 2015 at 10:59 pm
Valery, you say the distance between seeds is on average 2 cm, is this taking into account subsequent thinning, or are granular seeds not thinned out? then 2 cm is not cramped for them with such a crop? I also saw such a gear device, which was already mentioned above, there it is designed for 4 or even 5 cm from each other.
April 20th, 2015 at 10:57 am
Two or three cm is just right, because it is impossible to predict 100% germination, and relatives can be ordered.
April 21st, 2015 at 12:09 am
Valery, hello. Tell me, please, for a beginner, and when you plant carrots, if not difficult, and when you need to sow beets and onions, we are not far from you (Yaroslavl) and at least somehow navigate, we learn gardening on your site. There are already high beds, seedlings are languishing, I really liked the article about potatoes, although I didn’t plan to plant them, but if everything is so easy and simple, only the planting dates for all crops for our region are not clear. It seems that carrots are planted first, then beets are planted, and when are onions? Sorry for such questions, there are a lot of things on the Internet, but with certain disagreements, and you are so close, share a secret. I will be very grateful.
April 21st, 2015 at 12:54 pm
Lina, planting dates can be different even within the same village, to advise, it’s like poking into the sky, I would start to navigate my neighbors, especially old-timers, they know exactly when you need to plant and sow.
April 21st, 2015 at 3:20 pm
Unfortunately, all our neighbors so far only go to the dacha for the purpose of rest, still a young "village", then I will be guided by the temperature of the soil, in some of your videos I heard this, I will review it again. Thank you.
April 23rd, 2015 at 10:20 am
Check the temperature of the soil at a depth of 10 cm, it should be cool, but not cold, it is easy to feel it, try now to take a lump of earth from this depth and you will then understand when it starts to warm up.
April 24th, 2015 at 12:16 pm
May 6th, 2015 at 4:22 pm
please tell me, I made a warm bed in the spring, although I don’t know how it differs from the high one, what can be planted in it in the first year, otherwise some write that only zucchini and pumpkin are possible. open ground, in I have already planted a greenhouse on a warm bed, too, tomatoes, peppers. Yes, and the 2nd question, can sawdust be laid at the bottom of warm ridges or not
May 9th, 2015 at 9:59 am
Sawdust to the bottom is not worth it, but you can plant everything and it is warm only for a year, and then it is high, but it still warms up earlier and the yield is higher than on ordinary ones.
May 25th, 2015 at 11:32 am
Valery, can carrots be mulched with hay? Will it prevent the carrots from rising?
May 25th, 2015 at 1:25 pm
You should not mulch carrots with hay, you can’t suppress weeds under a thin layer, but it will be more difficult to weed them.
September 24th, 2015 at 10:06 am
Hello Valery. This year we have grown a good crop of carrots according to your recommendations, thank you very much! I would like to know how you determine the term for harvesting carrots, how you prepare them for storage (what is better to do with the tops - cut or cut off), how do you store them (in sand or ...)? And yet, many of our carrots cracked, can you tell me what is causing this? Thank you
September 24th, 2015 at 1:25 pm
The timing of harvesting depends on the variety of carrots, usually harvesting is carried out with partial yellowing of the leaves, but it is necessary to check that it does not overgrow, signs of this are the formation of roots throughout the fruit, it can crack due to an excess of nitrogen, uneven watering, overripe. The tops can be both cut off and cut with secateurs, after which you need to let the carrots dry. I store in dry moss, I used to store in dry sand, but it is heavy and difficult to carry and get it out of the underground.
September 25th, 2015 at 9:46 am
Good afternoon
This year I sowed your carrot seeds: perfect germination - collected good harvest.
Thank you very much!
September 25th, 2015 at 10:10 am
Valery, but I didn’t find carrot seeds in the catalogs, will you not have them?
September 25th, 2015 at 6:37 pm
Most likely they will be later, the year was cold, they ripen for a long time.
October 22nd, 2015 at 4:42 pm
Valery good afternoon. Thank you for such detailed information. I have been a gardener for only two years. Please tell me if it is necessary to change the landing places for the next year. If a carrot grew, can it be planted in the same garden? Everywhere they write about green manure, but we remove carrots and beets late and siderats do not have time to gain strength?
October 24th, 2015 at 9:47 am
It is necessary to change the place, I sow green manure after crops that I harvest early, onions, garlic, it is best to sow carrots on these beds, and I put compost on a carrot bed in the fall, and plant on it in the spring either onions, garlic or tomatoes.
October 25th, 2015 at 10:35 pm
Thank you very much for the answer. I will do so next year.
November 21st, 2015 at 8:48 pm
Hello. I bought carrot seeds from you last year. Are they good for planting next year? Or do you have to buy new ones every year?
November 23rd, 2015 at 11:23 am
Suitable, only every year the germination will decrease a little, but this is noticeable after three to four years.
January 2nd, 2016 at 10:50 am
Hello Valery, I just want to say a huge THANK YOU for your seeds and detailed recommendations for both beginner gardeners and experienced gardeners! Today in Odnoklassniki in one of the groups I saw a recommendation for growing carrots with your photo at the beginning of the article, I would like to know if you are really the author? I quote:
“I sow carrots in the following way.
Carrot love deep
cultivated fertile soil. I don't thin out, almost. I proceed as follows:
10-12 days before sowing, we tie the carrot seeds in a rag (freer).
We dig into the moist earth on the bayonet of a shovel (important!). During this period of
seeds, essential oils are weathered, which prevent the seeds from germinating. By
after the specified period, we dig out the nodules with seeds from the ground. The seeds will
already swollen, large, almost germinated. Pour them into a bowl and powder with the usual
starch. The seeds stop sticking to the fingers and will later be clearly visible on a dark
wet ground. If the soil is dry, water the furrow before sowing. When the water is gone
carefully place the seeds in the grooves
with the desired interval and sprinkle with dry (!) Earth. Carrots germinate 3-5 days after sowing!
Moreover, without watering, since watering from above will create a crust from the ground over the seeds, and
it will be very difficult for them to break through. All! This is where the worries ended. up to the very
seedlings. You can’t water it, otherwise the carrot will grow short and tasteless. ”
January 3rd, 2016 at 2:51 pm
I didn’t write this and I always thin out carrots, but I heard about digging into the ground before sowing.
January 13th, 2016 at 10:58 am
Valery, I purchased Krepysh carrot seeds from you. How long does it take from planting to harvest. I just want to guess so I can dig it up in October for further winter storage.
January 13th, 2016 at 1:07 pm
Approximately 130-140 days. But you should not do late sowing in order to remove it later, early sowings allow you to partially get away from the carrot fly and germination is better than in late sowings.
January 13th, 2016 at 4:44 pm
Thank you very much for your advice. In the video, you talk about coated seeds, but do simple ones need to be processed before sowing, such as in ACC or just hold in warm water? Some write that they soak for an hour, and one madam, in general, keeps 3 days in warm water, then treats with starch and sows.
January 15th, 2016 at 10:11 am
There are many ways to process, I recently switched to ACC.
January 31st, 2016 at 9:30 pm
Valery, every year I change places of carrots and onion. I plant onions before winter Stuttgart, Sturon, Radar. I have to hurry with the preparation of the beds after the carrots. I don’t dig up the ground, I just level it with a rake after harvesting and sow mustard. And then, in the fall, I plant onions. I want to say that I did not have big failures. From a 6-meter bed (planting in 3 rows), I have 20-25 kg of onions. Failure - 14 kg was 1 year old when part of the bow went into the arrow. Maybe I need to somehow process the bed differently? Please tell me. For me, both the earth and all plants are living things. And all the time it seems to me that I don’t give something to the garden where carrots grew. Feelings of guilt do not leave ... Thanks in advance
February 1st, 2016 at 9:39 am
And carrots and onions take a lot from the soil nutrients, green manure alone may not be enough, once every two years you can add compost to the beds.
February 4th, 2016 at 11:38 pm
Valery, good time of day.
Thank you so much, I received your seeds of tomatoes, peppers and Krepysh today. I am a beginner gardener, so...
Can you please tell me if your seeds need to be treated before sowing? Thanks in advance.
February 5th, 2016 at 8:50 am
February 16th, 2016 at 11:18 pm
Hello Valery, please tell me how to feed carrots, onions, beets, garlic from organic matter
February 19th, 2016 at 4:31 pm
Herbal and ash infusion.
February 22nd, 2016 at 4:53 pm
Valery, is it possible to use fallen needles instead of sawdust for mulching? Thank you.
February 23rd, 2016 at 8:57 am
March 9th, 2016 at 11:00 am
Valery, thank you for your work and for sharing information. Please tell me the direction in which you need to install high beds for growing plants? Are there any particularities or is it all in the same direction?
March 9th, 2016 at 2:11 pm
If the plot is with a slope, then the beds are installed with a ladder across the slope, if not, then from south to north.
March 15th, 2016 at 11:02 am
Valery, have you tried using mushroom blocks as mulch or fertilizer? We sell a lot of them and inexpensively, but I have not found reviews on the Internet anywhere.
March 16th, 2016 at 1:59 pm
As a fertilizer, they are not very nutritious, because, as I understand it, the blocks left after growing mushrooms, but as a mulch they are suitable and populate them with Gliocladin, this is such a fungus, you will also protect yourself from many diseases
March 17th, 2016 at 7:57 pm
Valery, thank you very much for your advice and for helping ordinary people
October 5th, 2017 at 8:39 pm
Hello Valery! Please tell me, if I removed the onion from the garden and blew the phacelia, then after it I can plant the onion again, will the onion be shielded after the sidirat or the onion after the onion?
October 6th, 2017 at 8:13 am
It’s better to change the garden anyway, phacelia will help another crop, it does not guarantee the avoidance of pests and diseases.
October 8th, 2017 at 5:38 pm
Thanks Valery! And if you shed a bed with a solution before planting blue vitriol, and in the spring after the snow melts again, then this will not help get rid of pests? And tell me, please, what is the best way to cover the beds with garlic and onions for the winter with freshly cut grass or peat, or hay? This is what I have at the moment. Or maybe you have best advice?
October 13th, 2017 at 8:21 am
Carrots on high beds
In the Urals, for a long time, all gardeners have been growing vegetables on high beds: they warm up faster in the spring, and it is easier to care for them.
I have beds in my garden 40 cm high and 1 m wide. We fill the passages between the ridges (50-60 cm) with sawdust, and if the grass breaks through them, we simply cut it with a flat cutter and leave it in sawdust.
Soil preparation for sowing carrots
Carrots love loose soil, so we dig up the bed on a spade bayonet and level it with a rake.
The husband cut strips of black roofing felt 15 cm wide and the length of the width of the beds, and for their fastening to the ground he made studs of thick wire in the form of the letter P, the upper part of which is equal to the width of the strip - 15 cm.
We lay out these strips across the beds, leaving 10 cm between them, and fasten them on both sides with hairpins so that they are not blown away by the wind. Then, with the edge of a board specially made for this purpose, we make indentations, pressing on the board simultaneously from both sides.
It turns out deep compacted grooves, I pour them abundantly with water from a watering can without a strainer. You can add humic fertilizers to the water, but I do without them.
Sowing carrot seeds
The next stage is the layout of the seeds.
It is most convenient to use coated seeds: they can be spread evenly along the groove, then thinning is minimal.
How to prepare carrot seeds for planting - the old way
But the germination of these seeds in last years just disgusting and I went back to the old way pre-sowing treatment. I pour out a packet of seeds into a linen cloth and tie a knot with twine.
I leave one end of the twine long and tie a bag of seeds rolled up into a tube so as not to confuse the variety, since I get several such knots. Two weeks before planting, and this is the end of April, I bury the knots with seeds in the ground to a depth of about 30 cm, leaving the end of the twine outside with a bag tied to it, and take it out of the ground when the grooves are ready.
The seeds are swollen, saturated with life-giving moisture and the power of the earth, they do not need to be dried, but must be immediately laid out in grooves.
Take the time and lay them out neatly and not thickly - in the future there will be less hassle.
I fill the grooves with a loose earthen mixture, to which I add humus, peat and vermiculite. I do it with my hands: I level it, slap it and cover the bed with plastic wrap until sprouts appear.
In this way, you can process any seeds: parsley, parsnips and other tight-looking ones - it's not for nothing that nature soaked them with oil! It is also necessary for plants, and there is no need to soak them in vodka.
There is very little weeding on such a carrot bed, in addition, the soil under the roofing material warms up well and does not dry out.
When watering, you can pour water from the hose onto the strips, it will drain just under the roots of the carrots, and the tops will not lie down. The strips can be removed when the leaves close up by pulling out the pins and pulling out the strips. These strips and studs are used repeatedly, for several years.
The photo shows a bed with carrots at the end of May, even before thinning. And I thin out the carrots twice, and the second time the "tails" are already good for food.
Carrots do not require special care, but the rules of cultivation must be followed. It is a drought-resistant crop, tolerates frosts and prolonged cold snaps. How to grow carrots? The secrets, like those of other vegetables, lie in the correct agricultural technology.
It requires more care than other crops. Let's take a closer look at how to grow carrots in the country or garden plot with your own hands.
Soil preparation
It is required to choose a bright place before growing carrots. The secrets lie in the fact that with a lack sunlight due to a falling shadow or uneven surface of the bed, root crops lose their sugar content and mass.
Before you grow a good crop of carrots, you need to choose a light and even soil. It should be sandy, light loamy, with good drainage. In dense loam, the fruits grow small; during storage, they are quickly affected by rot. Carrots should not be planted on acidic soils. It requires a neutral or slightly acidic environment.
Before growing good carrot, necessary
The bed is prepared in the fall so that it settles down. It is made loose. For this add sawdust, humus, peat or sand. Chalk, lime, dolomite, ash are used for liming. Manure for growing carrots should not be used, because it turns out not very beautiful and poorly stored root crops. Humus should be applied to poor soil - a bucket per square meter. If ground water close, the bed is made high.
The arable layer is well formed with the help of green manure roots - plants that create a good soil structure. They are sown in the garden in the fall, in order to plant carrots in this place in the spring. Worms and microorganisms also create good soil structure.
Carrot beds should be constantly changed. Predecessors should be garlic, onions, cabbage, potatoes. How to grow large carrots if you have to grow the same crop in one place? The introduction of wood ash twice a year in the amount of 0.2 kg / m 2 will help here, followed by digging.
In the spring, a week before planting, the bed is leveled, loosened, treated with a 0.3% solution of vitriol, watered with warm water, and then covered with a polyethylene film. During this time, it will retain moisture and warm up well in the sun.
How to prepare seeds for sowing
Germination of carrot seeds is small - 55-75%. In this regard, the seeds should be taken fresh. In addition, carrots do not differ in uniform germination. After 2-3 weeks, the first shoots should appear. Seeds germinate for a long time due to the presence on their surface essential oils that slow down the penetration of moisture.
Before growing, it is necessary to prepare for sowing. Consider several ways to pre-germinate them.
Soak
Seeds are poured into cloth bags and kept overnight in warm water. Water must be changed every four hours. It can be made into a nutrient solution by adding wood ash (30 g/l). After the seeds must be washed.
The method will be more effective if additional hardening is performed. Seeds in wet bags are placed in the refrigerator for 2-5 days.
Soaking with nutrient solution
Use a weak solution of potassium permanganate with the addition of ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per liter of water or a mixture of nitrophoska and boric acid(1/3 teaspoon and 1/2 teaspoon per liter of water, respectively). Seeds are scattered on gauze folded several times, and also covered with it from above and poured with a solution for a day. The liquid level should be just above the tissue. Then they are washed with water and put in the refrigerator for three to four days.
If the weather does not allow planting seeds, they are left on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, keeping them moist all the time. In this case, you need to ensure that they do not germinate more than 0.5 cm.
Heat treatment
Heat treatment of seeds consists in their successive immersion in hot and cold water. They are poured into a bag and rinsed at a temperature of 50 degrees, and then dipped in a solution of humate and kept warm for two days. As a result, the germination of not only carrots, but also parsley and dill is accelerated.
bubbling
Bubbling speeds up the seed preparation process. An air or oxygen supply hose with an emery stone filter at the end is brought to the bottom of a non-metallic container with water. A mesh with seeds is placed on top.
During the bubbling process, the water is saturated with air. At home, a small aquarium compressor is enough for this. Bubbling time for carrot seeds is 17-24 hours. After the material is removed to the middle shelf of the refrigerator, where it is stored for 3-5 days. Before sowing, the seeds are dried for 12 hours so that they become free-flowing, and sown.
Burying seeds in the soil
Dry seeds are placed in cloth bags and buried in the ground with a shovel to a depth of one bayonet, where they should be at least 10-12 days. Then they are taken out and sown in the garden. After such treatment, seedlings should appear in five days.
Another way is to mix the seeds with moist peat and keep them in a warm place for at least one week. During this period, they have time to germinate, after which they are sown. Before planting in the ground, the seeds are dried for 20-25 minutes on parchment or cloth at room temperature.
How to grow carrots. Secrets of sowing and care
Before planting, seeds are selected and purchased that are most suitable for a particular region. You can also get them yourself. Before growing carrot seeds, you should find a good and large root crop, and then plant it in the spring. By autumn it will be ripe.
Carrots grow for about three months. To get a harvest in September, planting should be done no later than May. Sowing dates cover the period from the end of April to the first decade of June. Landing before May 5 is considered optimal.
Before winter, carrots are planted when the soil becomes cold enough. It can be from the end of October to the beginning of November. Sowing and harvesting times vary by variety and region. northern varieties should not be planted in the south, as they will grow slowly. If you grow southern varieties in the middle lane, they give abundant tops, while root crops do not develop. Some varieties bred abroad are poorly stored.
Should be done on time otherwise beneficial features and the keeping quality of root crops may deteriorate.
Small carrot seeds should be evenly spread in the groove. Therefore, they are mixed with sand or peat and sown in a garden bed.
So that neighboring rows do not interfere with her growth? To ensure sufficient illumination, it is better to make the beds narrow - no more than four rows of carrots.
Along the edge, bumpers are made to prevent water from running off. The distance between rows should be 15 cm, and for late varieties- 20 cm. The bed is watered with water and sprinkled with ash. Seeds are placed in grooves at a distance of about 2.5 cm.
During spring-summer plantings, swollen seeds are planted shallowly - by 3-4 cm. They should be sprinkled with very light soil, which is used as black soil mixed with peat, sand or humus. Then, a ventilation gap is made from the film above the bed at a distance of about 12-15 cm.
The first shoots in warm weather appear in a week. If the temperature is below 12 degrees, the time is doubled. If there are empty places, additional sowing is done.
For many gardeners, the question of how to grow early carrots is problematic. Actually, it's easy. Planting carrots in autumn early varieties to a depth of 2 cm, and then sprinkled with mulch to a height of 3-4 cm. In this case, the soil temperature should be below +5 degrees. When there is little snow in winter, the beds are additionally covered with them to a height of up to 50 cm. With this method of planting, the crop is harvested earlier than usual by 2-3 weeks.
Plant thinning
How to grow a good crop of carrots if it has risen well? To do this, you need to do a thorough thinning of seedlings after the appearance of the third leaf.
All this is not as simple as it seems at first glance. In order for the plants to be well removed, the bed should be watered and the soil carefully loosened. In addition, the operation should be performed during the day so as not to attract a pest - a carrot fly flying in the evening.
Sprouts should be removed with tweezers, leaving a distance of at least 2 cm. The smallest shoots are removed. The tops are thrown away from the beds. In no case should you leave it nearby, so as not to attract pests. A good deterrent is onion arrows, which are crushed and scattered in the garden. You can cover the crops with special material. The earth around the plants is slightly crushed. After 20 days, thinning is repeated. At the same time, a distance of 6 cm is left between the carrots.
The aisles need to be loosened and weeded (at least once a week) so that a sufficient amount of oxygen enters the roots. After thinning the aisle, mulch with compost or sawdust soaked for several weeks in a 2-3% urea solution.
How to grow large carrots? Here you need the right dosage of fertilizers. They cannot be entered directly into large quantities. Carrot beds begin to fertilize with mineral water when 5-6 sheets appear. The frequency of feeding is 2-4 weeks. This culture especially does not like excess nitrogen.
In the process of growth, the upper part of the root crop comes out of the ground and turns green. It does no harm, but the taste gets worse. How to grow sweet carrots so that they do not lose their taste qualities? When root crops appear from the ground, they are spudded, raking the ground on them with a height of about 50 mm.
Watering carrot beds
Poor germination of carrots is associated primarily with the drying of the soil. Until she has risen, the top layer of the bed should be constantly wet. Sometimes the earth should be watered even several times a day. Granular seeds germinate especially hard. Immediately after sowing, the bed is protected with a film so that the top layer does not dry out.
Until the roots appear, watering is done after 3-4 days, 3-4 buckets per 1 m 2. At the same time, they independently grow in depth and find moisture. Therefore, watering is done once a week, 1-2 buckets per m 2, and from the end of August - 1 time in 1.5-2 weeks, 8-10 liters per square. The beds are kept for two weeks without watering until harvest.
Rough root crops are an indicator that they lacked moisture. With its excess, the fruits grow small. Sharp changes from drying to excess moisture are also harmful, leading to cracking of the carrot and subsequent poor preservation.
Carrots are not afraid of cold weather, but at temperatures below 8 degrees, starch in root crops turns into sugar, and the keeping quality of root crops deteriorates. In the middle lane, the crop is harvested at the end of September in dry weather.
Collected within 1.5-2 hours, and then cut off the tops. The crop is sorted, flat carrots are placed in a ventilated box in a dark and cool place. It could be a cellar or basement.
Conclusion
You will never be able to reap a good harvest if you do not know how to grow carrots. The secrets of agricultural technology lie in proper preparation soil, proper planting and care. As a result, in the fall you will get large and even root crops.
To print
19.03.2015 | 8758
When growing carrots, it is important to form a bed that is suitable specifically for this crop.
Good garden is already a success. On right garden plants are easier to care for: water, weed, fertilize and harvest. A well-chosen bed will contribute to the development of the plant.
flat bed
Usually carrots are grown on a flat bed. But such plantings are inconvenient to water and feed. In addition, it can be problematic to pull a ripe carrot out of such a bed - only tops remain in the hands, and the root crop continues to cling tightly to the ground.
Stitch fit
Another way to grow planting with one line along the crest of the row. I think that this method is better than the usual flat bed. Carrots planted on ridges are more convenient to thin out, you can freely walk along the grooves, which greatly facilitates care. But such beds also have a lot of disadvantages. While the crops are very young, there are problems with watering, the water simply rolls off the rounded ridge. Watering from the bottom along the groove is only suitable for mature plants. In addition, young carrots are inconvenient to feed and loosen.
high bed
After trying different cultivation techniques, I settled on a two-line planting on high garden. To do this, I cut rows with a wide flat comb. Along the ridge I have two lines of crops.
Step by step, the whole work looks like this:
- With a marker or pegs with a rope, I mark out future beds on the site. It should be borne in mind that the width of the ridge will be 30-35 cm. I make the grooves between the rows convenient for walking and watering the width, usually also 30-35 cm.
- I dig rows with a shovel. It is important that the earth at this moment is slightly damp. Dry soil forms hard lumps, unacceptable when growing carrots. If lumps still form, be sure to break them with a shovel.
- I level the soil well with a rake in order to finally deal with lumps. At the same time, I form ridges about 20 cm high with a flat top 30-35 cm wide. I level the earth on the ridges especially carefully.
- With the corner of a chopper I cut two shallow parallel grooves along the crest. The distance between the grooves is 10-15 cm.
- I sow carrots in the grooves, sprinkle with earth and be sure to mulch with sand or small sawdust.
Caring for such a bed is very convenient. I water crops and young shoots with a watering can or through a sprayer put on a hose. Water is well retained on the flat surface of the beds and does not roll anywhere. When the time comes for top dressing, I make a narrow groove between the lines of seedlings and already apply fertilizer into it.
Over time, carrots grow, root crops go deep into the beds. From this moment I start watering along the aisles, because the water will flow directly to the growing root crop. For top dressing, I make grooves no longer between the lines of carrots, but on both sides at the base of the beds.
high beds well warmed by the sun. Plants in warm earth grow faster and develop better. If the weather is cold and rainy, high beds save carrots from stagnant water and, as a result, from fungal diseases and decay.
Harvesting from such beds is a pleasure. If the root crop does not want to pull out, there is always the opportunity to shake it slightly, - small plot the beds will collapse, but the carrot will be extracted safe and sound.
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Even experienced gardeners there are incidents with carrots - either it didn’t rise, or it didn’t grow well, or even the root crops turned out to be ugly and tasteless. Growing carrots is a delicate matter and, despite its apparent simplicity, is replete with many nuances. With this vegetable, a negative result can be evidence of both a lack of care and excessive diligence. We propose to consider what mistakes in the cultivation of crops are made most often and how to avoid them.
Carrots are delicate!
Site selection and garden preparation
Climatic conditions Middle lane Russia are ideal for growing carrots in the open field - it turns out to be dense, juicy, sweet. For crops, an open area of \u200b\u200bthe garden is chosen so that a lot of sun falls on it - in the shade, the plants stretch out, grow with large tops and small root crops. The earth needs loose, sandy loam is better, with a neutral reaction of the soil solution. Considering that in nature ideal conditions meet infrequently, you can make a fruitful bed yourself. Clay soils are loosened and enriched - humus, compost, peat, leafy soil, river sand are added to them.
When deciding where to grow carrots, advanced gardeners create special organic beds, with an airy structure, very light. The soil is dug up before winter, the acidity is reduced by liming, mineral fertilizers: nitrogen (20–30 g/m²), superphosphate (40–50 g/m²), potassium salt (40–50 g/m²). With organic matter, you need to be more careful, because root crops cannot stand fresh manure. They are suitable for areas fertilized a year earlier - after cucumber, zucchini, potatoes, cabbage. Typical mistakes:
- Digging is carried out in the spring. This violates the structure, reduces the natural moisture content of the soil. Seeds, being at a depth of 2–3 cm, do not receive capillary moisture and significantly lose their germination capacity.
- They add a lot of nitrogen. Carrots overfed with nitrogen contain a lot of nitrates, taste worse, and are poorly stored.
It is important! No matter how hard you try, but acidic soil(pH below 6-6.5) you will not be able to grow sweet carrots. An acidic environment prevents the absorption of valuable trace elements, including phosphorus and potassium. Given the characteristics of the culture, liming the soil can only be carried out in winter - before the autumn digging.
seed requirements
Efficient carrot cultivation technologies are unthinkable without high-quality seed material. When choosing a variety or hybrid, pay attention to the ripening time, soil requirements, moisture, correlate this with the conditions of your region. Coated seeds do not need additional preparation, but they have a feature - watering the soil before and after sowing. It is necessary that the multi-layered shell be able to get wet, without this the seed will not receive the necessary nutrition and water, respectively, will not germinate. Encrusted and primed seeds are sown dry. But the usual ones need to be prepared for sowing - pre-soak, disinfect, stimulate with growth regulators. There are many procedures main function- accelerate the emergence of seedlings.
Typical mistakes:
- Sowing with dry untreated seeds. They sprout for a long time, and if they have sown in the cold ground, they can sprout.
- Dried seeds do not germinate. There is not enough moisture to dissolve the granule.
The subtleties of sowing
The secrets of growing carrots at this stage are in the correct determination of the timing and sowing technology. To get an early harvest for summer consumption, carrots are sown as soon as the soil is shaken and warmed up to 6–8⁰ C. With winter sowing, the ripening time can be accelerated by 1–2 weeks. In order to get high-quality and long-term root crops for laying for the winter, the sowing dates are shifted by about 1–1.5 months - by the first decade of June.
Sow carrots shallowly (1.5–2 cm), placing them in rows, 12–15 cm ribbons or wide ridges. The bottom of the seed furrow must be compacted, moistened, and only after that the seeds are laid out. From above they are covered with a dry substrate - earth from the garden, humus, mulch from rotted organic matter. Sowing methods for growing carrots recommend sparse or precise. They require extra cost and patience, but they will pay off handsomely at harvest time and save you time on thinning.
Typical mistakes:
- The furrows were cut, but not compacted, not watered. The seeds lay unevenly, rolled under clods of earth, did not receive the necessary moisture - seedlings are uneven, unfriendly. The tip of the root died from drying out - a forked root crop will grow.
From seeding to seedlings
The main thing in growing carrots from sowing to shoots is to save moisture. Beginning gardeners, seeing that seedlings do not appear, resort to watering. A crust forms on top of the soil, then it becomes covered with cracks, through which water evaporates intensively. How to deal with it? Firstly, if the principle of “dry on wet” is observed during sowing, then the top layer will reliably retain moisture. Secondly, when a crust appears, surface loosening is carried out with a rake. To make rows of carrots appear earlier, mix radishes, lettuce, spinach with seeds - they will act as beacons.
Typical mistakes:
- Watering until shoots. The achene does not have enough strength to break through the formed crust - shoots are weak, uneven, delayed.
plant care
The technology of growing carrots at the care stage includes such mandatory activities as weeding, loosening, thinning, watering and fertilizing. The thinning procedure is excluded if sparse or precision sowing was used. In this case, if there is a need, the density is adjusted during weeding.
thinning
The first thinning is carried out with the formation of 2-3 leaves. Weaker shoots are removed, leaving an interval of 2 cm between the remaining ones. The carrots are broken for the second time when the root crop grows up to 1.2–1.5 cm in diameter, leaving the plants after 4–6 cm. How to grow large and even carrots depends , including from the secrets of thinning.
- You need to pull out the excess carefully, without damaging the growing seedling nearby. A damaged root crop starts a new root at the site of injury, that is, it bifurcates.
- If you like large carrots, leave the plants less frequently. To get aligned root crops, they must sit shoulder to shoulder in the ground.
- Carry out any weeding on soft soil - after rain or watering.
Note! During thinning, a spicy aroma rises above the bed, attracting carrot flies. To protect plantings from the pest, remove weeding waste in a timely manner, work early in the morning or in the evening.
Typical mistakes:
- Thickened crop. Instead of high-quality root crops, you will get “mouse tails”.
- Sparse sowing. Non-standard products, large specimens can produce side shoots, growths.
Watering
How to water carrots is the most controversial issue in crop cultivation technology. Supporters of traditional farming recommend doing this infrequently - 4-5 times per season, but plentifully. Water should wet the soil by 40 centimeters, which is 50-60 l / m². The first watering is carried out immediately after the shoots, then - approximately every 15-20 days. In natural farming, watering is not welcome. Seedlings need abundant moisture until 5-6 true leaves appear. After the first thinning, the beds are mulched with a layer of 5-7 cm and not watered at all or extremely rarely - in the case of a dry summer. There is an explanation for this - the roots of carrots (not to be confused with the root crop!) Reach 2–2.5 m and can provide themselves with the necessary moisture.
In any case, watering must be stopped completely at least a month before harvesting.
Note! How to grow large carrots, if there is no way without watering, but there is no water? Plant late-ripening varieties. In autumn it will rain, dew will fall, fogs will fall and the root crop will have time to catch up.
Typical mistakes:
- Frequent but shallow watering. Root crop to get moisture and nutrition from upper layers soil, begins to grow lateral roots. As a result, "hairy" carrots grow.
- Uneven hydration. If after a long period of drought, give abundant watering, there is a high probability of longitudinal cracking of root crops.
top dressing
Root feeding of carrots is necessary if the full rate of fertilizer was not applied before sowing. They are effective in combination with watering. They are timed to coincide with the end of the breakthrough, that is, 2-3 times per season. We need balanced fertilizers for root crops, such as Agricola, Bona Forte, Fertika (universal).
Typical mistakes:
- Lack of fertilizer. In depleted soil, the roots will be small, from a lack of potassium, the pulp becomes dense and hard, without phosphorus, it will not pick up sweetness.
Cleaning
The answer to the question of how to grow sweet carrots often depends on the nuances of harvesting. It is impossible to dig out early, because in the last month of the growing season, the vegetable is intensively gaining sugar. But it is even more dangerous to overexpose carrots in the garden. A root crop that has sat in the ground begins to grow young roots, becomes hard, and begins to taste bitter. To avoid such mistakes, when sowing, pay attention to the growing season of the variety and stick to them.
Typical mistakes:
- Early planting varieties with a short growing season. If the ripening dates came by the end of August, and the root crops were removed a month later, you will get woody, hairy from the roots and tasteless carrots.
Covered ground technologies
Being a plant with a long daylight hours, carrots are not the most popular indoor crop. Nevertheless, growing carrots in a greenhouse allows you to get additional crops of a vitamin vegetable out of season.
What nuances should be remembered?
- Suitable for sowing in greenhouse conditions early ripe varieties with a short growing season, for example, Minicor (88–90 days), Saturno F1 (50–55), Amsterdam (80–85).
- If you sow carrots in February-March, the roots will ripen by May. The second time is planted no earlier than August and the vitamin harvest is taken during December-January.
- Until mid-February, while daylight hours last less than 10 hours, additional lighting with fluorescent lamps must be used.
Otherwise, care is not much different from technology. open ground. Although you should not count on high yields in a greenhouse, young vegetables with tender, crispy flesh diversify your table and eliminate the need for long-term storage.
Carrots in high beds:
