Solder the warm floor. Warm floor film. Determination of a malfunction of a warm electric floor

Experience shows that the use of a heating cable is a solution that is just as effective as electric fireplaces and convectors. The “stealth” of such a cable also deserves attention: being located under a decorative coating, it saves usable space, which is especially appreciated by the owners of small rooms. The number of people who want to know how to choose this a heating element for a warm floor steadily increases, and therefore this topic worth revealing in more detail.

Peculiarities

First of all, it should be noted that the high popularity of the heating cable is due to its impressive efficiency. It converts almost all electrical energy into heat, minimizing losses and achieving optimal consumption of available resources.

This is especially noticeable if the insulation of the lower layer is used and there are no errors during the installation process.

If we single out situations for which a warm floor is considered best solution, their list will look like this:

the use of cold coatings (as an option, ceramic tiles);
high level humidity in the premises (most often these are bathrooms);

inability to connect to central heating (relevant for dressing rooms and hallways, as well as insulated loggias and balconies);
the need for heating suburban real estate.

Another notable feature of floors equipped with a heating cable is the possibility of their installation under the most different types coatings. It is enough just to get acquainted with the principle of operation and arrangement of such heating systems, as well as with their main varieties.

Operating principle

The functioning of heating cables implies the ability of their material, which is a special alloy, to convert electricity into heat. All of them have maximum moisture protection, and their power is in the range of 10-30 W per 1 meter.

As for the forms in which such cables can be presented, these are:

coils;
section systems;
rolls (mats).

The latter option is fixed with a snake on a reinforcing mesh, which can be cut, but on condition that the wires providing heating and power are not affected. Thus, heating mats make it easy to bypass furniture, appliances and other interior items. In most cases, such heating systems involve the use of a two-core resistive cable, and the termination of their supply conductor is performed by means of a heat-shrinkable tube.

It is also worth adding that the composition of the warm floor includes:

cable;
temperature controller - manual or with program control;
temperature sensors - internal or external.

As a rule, in the maximum load mode, the cable heats up to a temperature of 60-65°C. Its standard values, relevant for normal everyday use, are much lower - about 30 ° C.

But the insulation of the heating cable can easily withstand significantly higher temperatures - up to 100 ° C.

Primary requirements

Before proceeding with the selection of a cable for underfloor heating, the property owner should draw up a detailed plan of his home. It should include accurate information about the location of stationary interior items, the surfaces under which it is not advisable to warm.

multiplying the length of the room by its width;
calculation of the total area occupied by furniture and appliances;
subtracting the second result from the first.

As for the power of the conductor, sufficient for full-fledged heating of the room, then, depending on the specifics of the latter, its values are:

living rooms, bedrooms, hallways and kitchens - 100 W;
bathrooms and toilets - 150 W;
balconies and loggias - 200 watts.

If the owner of the dwelling plans to use the cable in coils, then in his situation the calculation will be more complicated. This is due to the need to take into account several additional parameters, the main of which are the steps of the turns, the length of the heating cable and its power density.

In addition, the following requirements should be taken into account:

for apartments, underfloor heating should play the role of an auxiliary source of heating, and not the main one;
in buildings made of wood, you need a cable with a power not exceeding 2 kW;
if a warm floor is installed to heat stairs, ramps and other architectural elements located on the street, its rated power should be 4 kW;
the length of the cable used to create one circuit must not be interrupted;
the transition of the conductor from room to room is unacceptable in order to avoid its refraction;
installation of one circuit is most justified for rooms whose area does not exceed 25 square meters. m.

In addition, for the arrangement of a warm floor, it is strongly recommended to use only complete accessories and spare parts, the characteristics of which are optimally combined with each other.

Kinds

Among all the forms of cable release for underfloor heating used in apartments, mats are the most popular - products that do not require the owner of the home to perform most of the calculations. If we single out decorative coating, which is rightfully considered optimal, then this tile or ceramic granite. Two types of heating cable used in modern systems deserve special mention:

Resistive. Such elements may include the presence of one or two wires. The two-core version is less complicated in laying, but its cost is somewhat higher than that of the single-core one. In such cables, one conductor acts as a heater, while the second provides power. Regardless of the number of cores, the presented view is ideal for a screed floor, due to the fact that concrete cools extremely slowly.

Self-regulating ("self-heating"). This type of cable is interesting in that the heat transfer to them directly depends on the temperature in the room. At the same time, in situations where the lack of heat is observed only in certain areas of the surface, the self-regulating cable will intensely heat them. It is easy to guess that such systems are more expensive than resistive ones.

Worthy of consideration and mats, the most popular varieties of which include:

Cable. This solution is a single-core resistive cable that is serpentine attached to the mesh. It is reasonable to use such mats under tiles, which is explained by their small thickness.
Carbon fiber (carbon fiber). The described type of mats assumes the presence of rod heating elements connected in parallel. Their main feature is infrared radiation generated as a result of exposure to electric current and acting as a heat source. It is noteworthy that the rods function independently of each other, providing heating according to a self-regulating principle. Carbon fiber mats, like those mentioned above, make sense to lay under ceramic tiles.
Film. This mat, which also uses infrared radiation for heating, provides for the presence of carbon rods in a polymer film.

It should be noted that such systems are sensitive to overheating, and therefore laying under stationary interior items is contraindicated for them.

Another noteworthy point is the impossibility of laying tiles on top of film mats. The fact is that the glue used to fix the coating in question does not provide a connection with the film, which is why experts recommend using plywood or chipboard for carpet or linoleum instead of tiles.

Installation

In addition, during the installation process, any kind of damage to the laid conductors should not be allowed. As for whether it is possible to shorten or lengthen the heating cable and whether it is allowed to cut it, then such measures should be treated with extreme caution. The reason for this is quite prosaic: the length of the kit implies specific meaning resistance, the change of which can lead to incorrect operation of the system and even to its failure.

The most common installation of a heating cable in a screed. To implement it, you need to follow these steps step by step:
Foundation preparation. Provides for pouring a 3-centimeter layer of cement-sand mixture.
Cold wire laying. Allows you to connect the thermostat to the underfloor heating system by creating a channel with a section of 20x20 cm.
Installation of a socket for a temperature controller.

Placement of a substrate capable of reflecting heat. The use of this element under the cable allows you to accelerate the heating of the system and reduce the consumption of electrical energy.
Installation tape. An alternative solution that provides reliable cable fastening is reinforcing mesh.
fill cement screed having a thickness of about 40 mm. It is important that the solution tightly fills all the cavities: this way you can achieve the best heat transfer performance.
Measurement of resistance - isolation and ohmic.

The final stage of the arrangement is the laying of a decorative coating.

This event can be carried out after the screed has completely dried - after about 3 decades from the moment it was poured.

The question is missing the data needed to give you a specific answer. In particular, neither the brand of the cable nor even its type is mentioned. It is also unclear whether the place of the cliff (cut) is known or whether it has yet to be found. Since you did not consider it necessary to provide this simple information, our recommendations will be of a general nature.

Finding the place of the break

This will require an electromagnetic radiation scanner. Consistently, turn by turn, by examining the cable hidden under the tile, you can find the place of the break.

It is impossible to find a hidden cable break without the appropriate equipment

Dismantling tiles

There are no "magic" methods of repairing electrical wiring without direct contact with it. The tile in the right place will have to be removed, and the cement-sand screed will be partially dismantled, trying not to damage the cable.

Cable connection

There are many types of heating cables, their design is very different. Each of them has its own recovery method.

Heating cables are single and two-core, they can have one common shielding braid or two protective braids. The screen can be single or multilayer, solid or woven. There are also cables with carbon cores, their repair is a separate issue.

Cable repair consists in the fact that all its conductive and insulating circuits must be restored while maintaining all specifications, without reducing the level of electrical safety and service life. It is not recommended to connect the cores by twisting or soldering; it is better to use special couplings consisting of connectors and heat-shrink insulating sheaths. Universal models of couplings, given the variety of designs of heating cables, do not exist.

Connectors and shrink sleeves are selected depending on the type of cable. Pay attention not only to the dimensions of the connecting elements, but also to the material from which they are made. Its electrical characteristics must correspond to the type of conductors and screen

It is necessary to connect not only the conductive cores, but also the shielding sheath. After completing the heating of the insulating sheath, you should make sure that it tightly compresses the wire.

Example of repairing a shielded two-core heating cable

Having completed the repair of the cable, we fill it with a cement-sand mortar, leaving no voids. Put the tile back on.

If you do not have experience in such work and find it difficult to choose the types of connecting elements, we strongly recommend that you entrust the repair of the underfloor heating cable to specialists. Of course, you will have to pay a little money, but save time and be sure of the result. Contact the company where you purchased the underfloor heating, they will help you.

After watching this short video on the topic "how to repair a cable for a warm electric floor with your own hands" it may seem that this is an easy task. But this is only at first glance, difficulties may arise at the stage of selecting a special solder, and it is problematic to connect such a cable without an insert. By the way, we do not recommend repairing by soldering at all, this is not reliable enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=85&v=r6oQNvMO7WQ

Everyone who decides to make electric heating in the house will one day ask himself a lot of questions, one of which is related to the specifics of choosing a cable for underfloor heating.

Peculiarities

Electric underfloor heating is a modern type of residential heating system. This design consists of heating mats laid under the floor or between layers of concrete screed and special regulators.

The advantages of the scheme include:

uniform distribution of heat along the height of the building;
the absence of circulation disturbances in the form of convection currents - the movement of heat in the air;
simplicity and clarity self-assembly systems;
the budget of a professional installation;
saving usable area of heated space;

no need for additional equipment;
possibility of installation under any floor covering;
increased comfort and convenience;
environmental friendliness;
possibility of use by people suffering from various types allergies, bronchial asthma.

The disadvantages of electric heating are:

high cost of 1 kW of electricity;
Creation electromagnetic field within a heated room;
mandatory skills in handling temperature controllers;
the complexity of diagnosing and repairing the system;
the existence of height restrictions for heated buildings;
the need to improve electrical safety through grounding.

However, with rational project planning and proper installation, all these shortcomings are eliminated by themselves, so this system is becoming increasingly popular among consumers.

The main operating element of an electric heat-insulated floor is the heating cable. The efficiency of the entire heating mechanism depends on its quality and features, so you should carefully and responsibly choose a heating cable for these purposes.

Kinds

Before making the final choice, you need to familiarize yourself with all types of heating cable. There are the following types.

Resistive cable

It creates the same temperature along its length and is divided into varieties:

Single core. This species lives up to its name. It consists of one heating core reinforced with a wire or foil sheath. The process of connecting such a cable requires the convergence of both ends in one place, that is, connecting them to the temperature controller. A single-core cable has a number of advantages, namely:

maximum heating temperature;
low energy consumption;
affordable price.

Two-core. It consists, respectively, of two cores, which are also surrounded by a protective film. A two-core cable does not require a return to connect. The circuit is closed by connecting a special sleeve to the free end of the wire. Its benefits include:

ease of installation;
the possibility of forming a route of any shape and length;
one-way connection;
the immutability of the electromagnetic field.

self-adjusting

Such a cable is based on two conductive cores that are in contact with a semiconductor polymer matrix, which regulates the heating of the system depending on the temperature of the surrounding space. The matrix is insulated in two layers and protected by a screen braid located between the layers. The advantages of a self-regulating wire are as follows:

universality;
durability;
the ability to independently select the temperature in the room;
resistance to damage;
reliability.

Electric mats

To make the installation of a warm floor easier and more convenient, as well as to minimize financial costs, it is recommended to use special electric heating mats. In turn, they are divided into:

cable;
carbon;
film.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

Cable (wire) mat- This is a flat flexible device consisting of a single-core wire attached to a metal mesh in the form of a snake. These mats are ideal for tile and tile finishes.
Carbon or carbon fiber mat It is a construction of autonomous self-regulating heating rods fixed in parallel, emitting infrared radiation, which is the source of heat in such circuits.
Film mat, in fact, is arranged in the same way as carbon.

The only difference is that the carbon rods are additionally protected by a polymer film.

Characteristics

Regardless of the type heating cables characterized by a number of key indicators:

Core material. According to their composition, the wires are divided into:

aluminum (more suitable for stationary installations);
copper (flexible, but heavy);
aluminum-copper (the most convenient and economical option).

It should be remembered that its resistance depends on the material of the cable.

Number and thickness of wires in the core. This indicator is directly proportional to the flexibility of the wire, that is, the more thin wires, the more elastic the cable.
Insulation material. In order to protect the cable fiber from mechanical damage, as well as to prevent leaks, all wires are strengthened and divided according to the type of insulation into:

armored;
heat-resistant;
waterproof;
pressure protected and so on.

Operating temperature range (heat resistance). The higher this indicator, the higher the heating temperature of the cable without losing its original properties.
Cross-section or cut area of a current-carrying core. For single-core wires, the cross section is determined by the circle area formula (the product of the square of the radius and the Pi number is 3.14). For two-core cables, the cross section is the sum of the cut areas of both cores. According to the "Electrical Installation Rules", the section size is selected taking into account the planned loads (such as current power, for example) using special tables or average values.
Life time. On average, it fluctuates within 20-25 years. Having studied the basic characteristics of electrical cables, we can conclude that for a warm floor, you should choose copper or aluminum-copper heat-resistant wires with a cross section of at least 1.5-2.5 mm2, which allow you to turn on the thermostat at the maximum heating temperature.

Installation

Laying the electric floor is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Drawing up a project and calculating areas. First you need to draw a plan for each room in which you plan to install a heating system. After that, a separate calculation of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room (Stotal) is performed. Further, the arrangement of furniture is noted on the plan, the area occupied by it (Sm) is calculated. Based on these data, the direct laying area (Sy) can be calculated using a simple formula: Su \u003d Stotal - Sm

The heated surface should occupy from 50 to 80% of the total area of the room, otherwise the use of heated floors is impractical.

Calculation of heating power. At the preliminary stages of installation, it is necessary to calculate the power of the electric heater. There is a formula for this: Rtr \u003d Rp * 1.3, where Pp is the power of heat loss, Ptr is the power of the thermostat. That is, the power of the heating device should be calculated with a margin of 30%.

Choice of resistive cable or heating mat. Wires are selected taking into account the power and type of room. This can be done using special assortment tables that are produced by various manufacturers. The choice of the mat is also made on the basis of power and assortment indicators.

Calculation of the required amount of heating element. For a cable floor, the laying step, that is, the distance between the wire circuits, must be determined. Calculations are made according to the formula: x \u003d Su * 100 / Dkab, where Su is the cable laying area, Dkab is the length of the wire.

To calculate the last variable, that is, the length of the cable, it is better to use the built-in calculators on construction sites. When determining the required number of heating mats, formulas are not needed. It is enough to know the laying area.

Calculation of the electrical system of a warm floor. This stage, which includes the collection of technical and permitting documentation for installation, as well as an assessment of the condition of the electrical wiring, is best left to professionals.
Choice of thermostat. Going to the store for the most important device in this scheme, it is advisable to follow simple recommendations:

listen to the advice of consultants;
take into account current load indicators;
give preference to models with a temperature sensor if the underfloor heating system is planned to be used only as an additional source of heat;
purchase a multi-room controller with remote sensors if electric heating will be carried out simultaneously in several rooms.

Wiring design. For safety reasons and the continued smooth functioning of the system, it is better to entrust this work to an electrician.
Execution of thermal insulation subfloor, for example, with mineral wool.
Cable fixation or laying mat. The process is not particularly difficult.
Installation of thermostat and sensors. This step is the most responsible of all. If you are not confident in your abilities, then entrust the work to a professional.
System connection. A single-core cable is connected by connecting two ends to the device, and a two-core cable - one. To close such a circuit, an end sleeve is used, with which the free end must be connected. At this stage, it's time to cut, shorten, or lengthen the cable to fit the correct size.

You can cut the cable yourself with the right tools.

System check. It takes place within half an hour.
fill. If tiles are chosen as the floor covering, then the concrete screed can be replaced with tile adhesive.
alignment. The principle of operation is to distribute the solution.
Drying. The layer of the poured mixture should dry out. To speed up the process, it is recommended to open the door to the street.
Laying the final decorative coating. It remains only to lay the material chosen as the floor covering.

How to repair?

If the electric floor heating system has ceased to function, you need to find the cause of the malfunction. As a rule, there are three of them:

lack of power supply;
breakdown of the thermostat;
broken or damaged cable.

For diagnostics, you will need a screwdriver indicator or a multimeter. With the help of these devices, the presence of voltage phases is determined, resistance fluctuations are measured, cable breaks are detected. In the event of a power failure, contact a specialist. In case of breakage, the regulator is recommended to be replaced. If the wire is broken, then you can fix it yourself. The technology for repairing a broken cable is as follows:

de-energize the system;
remove floor covering
dismantle the concrete screed in the damaged area;
find a break

strip the ends of the dangling veins;
connect them with sleeves using press tongs (you can also solder);
isolate the joint with a heat-shrink sleeve and pour concrete;
check the operation of the system;
restore the screed and finish coat.

Clamp fixing

Flip the foil face down. For the convenience of layering the lavsan, there are special air spaces along the edges of the copper bus, because the adhesive base tightly binds the lavsan to the copper bus. You can use a clerical knife, screwdriver, scissors. Important!!! Do not damage the first heating strip, it is best to leave at least 5 mm before it.
We insert the clamp in such a way that one of the contact pads of the clamp is pressed against the copper bus directly.
We compress the clamp with the help of pliers with the force of both hands. Do not hit the clamp with a hammer or other object. The clip must not go over the heating strip.

Soldering contacts

Stage 1
To connect contacts (cord - ShVVP, cable - PV3) to a copper bus, you will need:
- infrared film floor, 0.5 m wide, up to 8 m long;
- ShVVP cord 0.75 mm2. size, depending on the area of the object and the installation locations of the thermostat;
- electrical insulating tape (with temperature characteristics and electrically transmissive characteristics);
- soldering iron, rosin, tin.

Stage 2
Flip the foil face down. For the convenience of layering the lavsan, there are special air spaces along the edges of the copper bus, because the adhesive base tightly binds the lavsan to the copper bus. You can use a clerical knife, screwdriver, scissors.
Important!!! Do not damage the first heating strip, it is best to leave at least 5 mm before it.

Stage 3
From the edge of the copper bus (left or right), in places of special air spaces, we make a cut of the first lavsan sheet to access the copper bus.

Stage 4
At the site of the soldering place, we bend the lavsan sheet, put a piece of "solder" (tin).

Stage 5
Having applied part of the rosin to the soldering iron, we bring the soldering iron to the copper bus and prepare the contact point

stage 6
The cable is stripped and tinned. Contact should not be too long.
Ready contact to achieve a flatter shape is compressed with pliers.

Stage 7
We bring the tinned wire to the prepared soldering area on the copper bus and hold until the moment of connection (2-3 seconds).

Stage 8
For one contact, 2 pieces of electrical insulation are required.
One strip of underfloor heating is insulated in 4 places (2 with soldered wires, 2 on the reverse side)

Stage 9
Insulation of the soldering point on one side.

10 stage
Insulation of the soldering point on the second side. After that, it is required to press tightly at the junctions of the electrical insulating tape.

Stage 11
Ready-made assembly kit for the implementation of the soldering point.
On each strip of underfloor heating, soldering points should not exceed more than 2x, i.e. Connecting contacts from both sides is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!

Competent laying under the laminate suggests that it will be done taking into account all the nuances. In its work, the heating equipment uses infrared waves. Inside a thin multi-layer cloth, emitters are soldered that emit infrared waves. They move upwards, where they are held up by massive objects. In this case . It accumulates heat in itself, gradually giving it to the air.

Radiation is generated by carbon emitters assembled in several strips. In more powerful systems, the canvas is continuous. In any case, bimetal conductive tires are located along its edge, which are responsible for transmitting electricity to the heater. The power of the equipment varies from 120 to 230 watts. The sizes and thickness of the panels vary.

The latter indicator does not exceed 2 mm, which allows you to easily mount the material under any coating. The width of a standard film can be 100, 80, 60 and 50 cm. For ease of use, the canvas is divided into segments between which it can be cut. The average length of such a fragment is 20 cm. Thus, if necessary, you can mount a heating floor of any, even very complex shape.

Film floor under the laminate: what to consider when choosing a coating

Standard lamellas cannot be mounted on heaters. There are several reasons for this:

The panels have low thermal conductivity, which will prevent the heating of the room.
Under influence high temperature the geometry of the inserts may change, as a result, the surface may warp.
When heated, artificial turf can release toxic substances.

These are all good enough reasons to stop using it. However, there are special material models designed for laying on a heater. For them, a special marking has been developed, which must be applied to the packaging. Another important point: Mandatory presence of locks on the slats. They must be laid only according to the floating floor technology, that is, without connection with the base. In this case, you cannot paste.

Rules for placing a heating cloth

This type can be both primary and secondary. In the first case, it is necessary to put the film on 70% of the area, in the second it all depends on the number and power of the main heat sources. However, in any case, consideration should be given important recommendations.

On flooring it is forbidden to place heat-insulating objects above the film. Such as large furniture without legs, dense, etc. The system in such areas overheats and may fail.
Heavy objects, such as overall and furniture, should not stand above the IR canvas. The slats below them can bend, which will lead to excessive pressure on the heater. In such conditions, it quickly breaks down.
If combined heating is expected, the laminate flooring must not be heated from two heat sources at the same time.
It should be taken into account that the heating zone of the film material goes beyond its physical boundaries. For this reason, it is not recommended to lay it close to walls, large furniture, etc. The indent should be about 3-10 cm. It depends on the power of the equipment.

It is optimal to lay the heating panel at a distance of 0.5-0.6 m from each wall. This will allow in the future to painlessly rearrange the furniture, if necessary.

Infrared film underfloor heating under the laminate: competent installation technology

The heating system is a kind of layer cake, which is important to lay correctly. Let's see how to do it step by step.

Step 1. We equip the base

It should be dry, even and firm. Laminate can only be laid on a leveled base. Therefore, if the height differences exceed 2 mm per running meter, additional work will have to be done. For leveling, it is optimal to fill it with a leveling mixture and wait until it dries completely. wooden surface The easiest way to level plywood.

Step 2. We put thermal insulation

For the normal functioning of the system, it is necessary to equip the heat-reflecting layer. Standard aluminum foil is not suitable in such cases. This is due to the fact that the heater is electric, therefore, the substrate should not conduct current. Otherwise, accidents are possible. As an insulator, polyethylene foam or cork with a reflective layer applied to it is chosen.

Before laying the material, carefully clean the base from debris and dust. Use is required. Spread the insulator strips on a clean surface. We cover the entire area of the room, even if the IR film is not laid everywhere. We lay the panels end-to-end one to the other with a slight approach to the walls. To avoid movement of the insulator, we fix it with tape or fix it directly to the base with a stapler.

Step 3: Lay out the film

We roll out the strips, orienting them along the longest sides of the room. In this way, it will be possible to minimize the number of contact connections. If necessary, we cut off the canvas, but only in special areas, which are marked with markings. During the installation process, we make sure that the integrity of the elements is not violated. The canvas should be laid so that there are no overlaps.

Copper current-carrying bars when laying should lie down with a shiny side. This is necessary for further connection of contacts. The panels must be fixed to with adhesive tape.

After all the heaters are laid out, we determine which busbars will be connected to the cable. We immediately carefully isolate all areas not involved in switching. To do this, we close them with bituminous tape, which should be included in the equipment kit.

Step 4: Install the temperature sensor

For the system to work correctly, the element is placed at the coldest point in the room. Moreover, it should be in the middle of the width of the strip, so that the distance from its edges is the same. Do not place the sensor close to the wall. There must be at least 500 mm between them. Another important point. If the standard cable of the device is not enough to lay it in the chosen place, you should choose another one. Extending the wire is prohibited.

We cut a groove in the substrate for the sensor housing and a channel for mounting its cable. We put the element in place so that it is located on the carbon heater. We fix the device with bitumen tape, we stretch the cable from it to. We lay out the film and fix it to the substrate.

Step 5. Install the terminals

In areas where radiating equipment will be connected to the circuit, you need to put special clips-terminals. Most often they have the form of a clip. In this case, we insert the upper petal of the element into the contact section of the film, and we wind the lower one under it. Then we take pliers and tightly but gently crimp the terminal, providing it with reliable contact with the copper bus. Sometimes there are other types of connections, you need to look at the rules for their assembly in the instructions for the equipment.

Step 6. Connecting the cable

We stretch the wire, placing it near the connection areas. Usually the cables are brought out to one side of the system: it is more convenient to connect them to the heaters. Although it is also possible to output the neutral and phase wires to opposite sides of the room. In this case, you need to be especially careful when connecting so as not to select one conductive bus for switching both contacts.

We clean the ends of the laid cables from insulation by about 1 cm and insert them into the contact terminal. We crimp the resulting connection with pliers. Reliably isolate it with bituminous tape. Glue the strips on top and bottom of the contact, gently crimp. The result should be a waterproof capsule that protects the connection from possible water ingress.

Step 7. Connecting the thermostat

The heating floor laying technology assumes that all cables must converge at one point. Where they fit the thermostat. It can serve several sections of the system at once, in which case it is extremely important to correctly select the fittings for connection. These should only be certified terminal assemblies; self-made twists are not allowed.

The thermostat control unit is equipped with special connectors to which wires are connected. To prevent errors, pictograms have been developed that indicate the areas of switching grounding, load and supply voltage. After connecting, we lay each cable in a special channel and fix the thermostat in place.

Step 8. Test run of the system

We check the integrity and correctness of all connections made and start the heating floor. If done correctly, it should work fine. If any problems are identified, all defects should be corrected and the equipment restarted. For clarity, we offer a video of installing a film underfloor heating under a laminate.

Step 9. Lay the coating

Heaters do not tolerate exposure to water, so it is necessary to put insulation on the canvas. Will be enough plastic film 200 microns, which will protect against moisture and will not delay infrared radiation. Material cut into strips desired length and lay out on top of the heating structure with a slight overlap. Be sure to seal them with duct tape.

Now you can begin to mount the coating. How to lay the selected laminate model, you need to look at the packaging. The manufacturer always gives recommendations for obtaining the best result. When working, some care must be taken so as not to accidentally spoil the film heater.