Garden roses: problems with flowering. Climbing roses Rose does not bloom for the second year

Photos of climbing roses enchant, there is a desire to plant such a beauty in your garden. True, there is a doubt, suddenly the climbing rose does not bloom for everyone. On the Internet, there are often complaints about the poor flowering of climbing rose seedlings.

It is necessary to find out the possible reasons why the climbing rose does not bloom, and eliminate them.

Wrong variety

The first reason that can be assumed is the wrong choice of variety or the purchase of a low-quality seedling. You need to make it a rule: do not buy seedlings from random people in the market. For our cool winters, roses on frost-resistant two by two are more suitable.

Successful varieties of self-rooted climbing roses, blooming profusely in the middle lane:

Excelsa.
Cute.
Dortmund.

But, this is not the only reason why a rose may not bloom.

The problem is in the soil

Depleted soil is a common reason why a climbing rose does not want to bloom. The problem arises if the soil in the garden is clay or sandy. These types of soil are not suitable for climbing roses, they contain insufficient nutrients, clay soil poorly conducts air, sandy contains little moisture.

Important! Don't forget to loosen the soil. Loosening depth 5–7 cm.

When planting, they improve the structure of the soil, increase its fertility by adding to the planting pit:

sand into heavy soil;
some clay in sandy soil;
humus, biohumus, compost into the soil of any type.

In addition, when planting, add fertilizers containing phosphorus to the hole, pour the soil with the Baikal EM-1 biological product. The supply of nutrients is enough for the first time, but in order to prevent soil depletion, feed the climbing rose according to the scheme shown in the table.

	Fertilizer	Quantity
after planting (after 12 days)	infusion of fresh mullein
early spring, immediately after formative pruning	ammonium nitrate	matchbox/sq. m
after 14 days	ammonium nitrate	matchbox/sq. m
buds formed	Kemira Lux
June (end), August (beginning)		according to instructions
autumn after flowering	superphosphate

Launched a bush

The reason why the climbing rose does not bloom is the growth in the root zone. In the absence of normalizing pruning, a huge number of shoots grow, they eventually lose their cultural properties, turn into an ordinary game, and take most of the nutrients.

Important! Cut off excess shoots at ground level. Use clean, sharp pruners.

In order not to run the bush, pruning is carried out in the spring. You should not delay with it, the first warm days are a good time to work. First of all, you need to cut out all the frozen and damaged shoots, and secondly, those that grow inside the bush.

Pruning bushes can be done in spring, summer and autumn. Below are expert tips on how to get a profuse climbing rose with the right pruning. Additional terms guaranteeing good quality bush: the use of quality garden tool, removal of all buds directed to the center of the bush, oblique cuts, no stumps.

excess nitrogen

An excess of nitrogen is one of possible causes why the climbing rose does not bloom. Organic fertilizers in the form of mullein infusion or chicken manure and mineral fertilizers(urea, ammonium nitrate) are not only beneficial. If you overdo it with the dosage or frequency of application, it is easy to get a fat climbing rose bush that refuses to bloom.

Advice! Feed roses with infusion of ash. The ash contains potassium and other trace elements necessary for a flowering plant.

Shoots fattening from excess nitrogen are easy to identify. They have a growing point, they are thick, well leafy, fast growing. Due to the fact that all the forces go to growth, the buds on the bushes do not form. What to do if a climbing rose does not bloom due to excess nitrogen is not difficult to guess. It is necessary to restore the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium in the soil. To do this, feed the bush with superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

Cause of illness

Sometimes it is enough to carefully examine the bush to understand what to do and why climbing roses do not bloom. The most common diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer (bark). Symptoms fungal disease in the initial stage - a gray-white coating on the leaves. In the advanced stage of the disease, the stems and leaves are covered brown spots with mushrooms.

To prevent root disease, bushes in the spring should be treated with preparations containing copper in their composition:

copper sulfate;
Bordeaux liquid.

For greater effect, shavings of green soap are added to the working solution. For a bucket (10 l) of water you will need: 300 g of soap chips, 15 g blue vitriol, 50 g baking soda. Bushes are sprayed before flowering in spring and after shedding all leaves in autumn.

Root cancer is caused by bacteria that live in the soil. Cancer symptoms:

at the beginning of the disease, light brown growths, soft to the touch;
with the progression of the disease, the growths darken and harden;
at the last stage, the affected areas rot.

A diseased bush is not subject to treatment. Prevention saves from cancer:

transplanting rose bushes every 5th year;
only healthy material for planting;
when planting and transplanting bushes, do not injure the roots.

change place

Perhaps your climbing rose just needs to be transplanted to another place and it will thank you with abundant flowering.

The planting site of roses plays an important role in the proper development of the plant. Important nuances:

rose bushes should be illuminated by the sun, but on a hot afternoon they need partial shade;
bushes growing in a draft bloom worse;
you should not plant a flower next to fruit and ornamental trees, he will not have enough food for flowering.

There are many reasons why rose bushes do not bloom. Most of them are associated with improper planting of seedlings and lack of regular care. Roses will decorate the garden with abundant flowering, if no gross mistakes are made during planting, a video will help to avoid them:

General rules for caring for roses

Outdoor roses, as well as domestic roses, need a certain level of soil moisture, proper pruning, and winter rest.

Pre-winter pruning

Every year, so that the roses can fully relax in the winter and gain strength, autumn pruning is carried out. After it in the spring, the shrub will be able to bloom much earlier. If the reason for the lack of color lies only in the absence of pruning, then by the summer it will be possible to admire the blooming buds.

The rose does not bloom

Most auspicious time for pruning - when the night temperature approaches zero degrees and will stay at this mark for some time. If the procedure is carried out earlier, during a warmer period, then the bush can continue to grow, forming young shoots. Frosts will destroy them, and the flower will lose strength.

Important! Pruning is carried out over the cinquefoil, strong and developed, the kidney should be external.

The trimmed bush can withstand temperatures down to -10 ° C without additional shelter. For a quiet wintering, the plant is covered using a dry leaf, sawdust, spruce branches. Many flower growers cover the garden bush with plastic bags and dig in the bottom with earth to create a more comfortable wintering condition for the crop.

The indoor flower also needs rest. Continuous flowering can quickly deplete the plant.

When flowering is over, cut off the trunk. The old stem is removed at the root, the height of the stumps should not exceed 3 cm. A strong young shoot is cut off above the fifth bud.

Important! On the shoot of a room rose, there must be leaves.

After that, flower pots are taken out to a cool room.

Transfer

Garden roses can also be grown in pots, but their root system develops faster. In this regard, it is necessary to transplant annually, each time increasing the volume of the pot. However, no matter what size the flowerpot is, for 5-7 years the flower must be planted outside.

Rose transplant

For indoor varieties, you can not immediately use a large flowerpot. Until the roots fill the entire volume, the rose will not bloom. You can correct this error by transplanting into a smaller flowerpot.

Important! Transfer spray roses carried out a month before the pre-winter pruning.

Watering and fertilizing

Garden flowers, and especially indoor flowers, need fertilizing and watering. If you stop watering a garden flower, it will be able to get the necessary moisture from the soil and survive the forced drought, while a rose in a pot will completely dry out in a few days.

Immediately before autumn pruning watering garden bushes is stopped. An excess of moisture in the soil will negatively affect the root system.

Watering resumes after the earth dries out from melt water. At the same time, nitrogen is introduced to make the plant bush more intensively.

Feeding roses

rose health

Any rose loves spraying with cool water. From this procedure, new buds form faster and their color is richer. After spraying, the room is ventilated. With stagnation and lack of air, indoor roses get sick.

A rose will signal a lack of moisture with yellowing and drying leaves. On hot summer days, when the buds begin to bloom intensively, the frequency of watering and spraying increases.

Important! Watering in the heat is carried out in the early morning and evening. If spraying is carried out during the day, the drops will act as a lens and can burn out the leaf.

Some varieties of roses cannot bloom because they have a bad neighbor in the flower bed. Lilac, spirea, mock orange prevent roses from blooming. They oppress the flower, actively taking away food. You should help the rose and transplant it to another place.

How many times a year do roses bloom

The nature of flowering subdivides plants into single and re-blooming. Many species form buds on last year's shoots. Wild roses bloom first, but their flowering is short and single.

wild roses

Garden roses bloom a little later, but among them there are varieties that have a repeated flowering period. The second time roses bloom weaker, their flowers are smaller.

Modern selection has provided a huge number of varieties of re-blooming roses that decorate the garden until frost. It is very rare to see when a rose blooms for the third time. This mainly happens in plants whose age exceeds 20 years. It would not be superfluous to mention that proper care was taken for such specimens.

Additional Information! Although it is generally accepted that roses live no more than 12 years, however, centenarians approaching the age of 40 are quite common among them.

It is possible to make a rose bloom a third time, only for this it is necessary to create ideal conditions for growth and do a series of manipulations with equalizing pruning and reblooming. This is done in greenhouses where flowers are grown for sale.

Planting bushes of the first year may not bloom. It depends on the planting material and the literacy of the grower. Moreover, the first flowering is not at all a necessity: the shrub should first be allowed to get stronger, then the flowering will be generous, however, next year.

Note! A climbing rose always throws out buds in the second year. In addition, in order to wait for flowering, the plant must be properly prepared for wintering.

Why do roses bloom poorly

If the rose bushes began to bloom poorly or stopped altogether, then something in the care was done wrong. Or maybe the pests tried.

Wrong landing site

Of decisive importance in the cultivation of roses is the place of their landing. Flowers love warmth and lots of light. They can develop normally if they are provided with full sun exposure for at least 8 hours a day. In shady places, the plant will not bloom.

Important! For planting roses, you need the most open area.

The necessary ecological conditions for a flower are lack of competition, permeable fertile soils, sunlight. The best option planting a flower - mono-flowers or rose gardens.

Incorrect cropping

Incorrect pruning is also the reason why the rose does not bloom. Some rose bushes cannot be severely pruned in the spring, only sanitization is practiced. This group includes climbings, English varieties, scrubs.

rose pruning

A long stalk shrub, shortened by half, will bloom too late, if at all deigns to throw out the buds. The rose will eliminate the lack of green mass at the expense of flowering.

To stimulate the appearance of flowering shoots, wilted flowers must be removed in a timely manner. It is advisable to carry out this procedure daily. At the same time, blind shoots should be identified and shortened by a strong bud. The rose begins to branch, throwing out new shoots on which there will be buds.

Spring pruning helps correct autumn errors. All missed unproductive shoots, very thin, damaged should be eliminated immediately. The shrub freed from them will concentrate on the creation and flowering of the main ones.

Wrong care

The culture requires intensive care: disease control, pest control, additional nutrition. An underfed, weakened shrub is more likely to drop leaves than bloom.

However, in feeding the plant, you need to observe the measure, so that later you will not be surprised why the rose does not bloom, but only leaves. So many media have recommendations for weekly feeding of roses. This cannot be done. Overfed plants grow intensively and increase green mass. And if they devote time to flowering, then it is extremely small: 1-2 buds may appear for the entire season.

Top dressing roses for abundant flowering

Feeding roses should be justified and balanced. Signs of lack of fertilizers:

thin shoots;
spots appear on the foliage;
weak flowering.

Only then can you help the roses with food. With the onset of flowering, the culture will need potassium magnesia, potassium monophosphate. Florists with extensive experience often refuse chemical dressings in favor of organics: why process them if there is horse manure. Its effects on roses are simply magical - the flowers are bright, strong, flowering is long, and the rose itself does not get sick.

Aging, growth

Full flowering will not occur if the bush strangles the root growth. Rosehip, on which a rose is grafted, will give birth to a lot of shoots. It is easy for an inexperienced summer resident to make a mistake and take it for the stems of a grafted culture. Continuing to curl inside the bush, wild shoots drown it out, take away food, space, air, light. The dominance of the wild rose indicates a mistake made during planting: incorrect depth.

Important! The appearance of root shoots must be stopped immediately.

Very old rose bushes also stop intensive flowering - for the whole season only one bud may appear on the bush. Such plants rejuvenate.

It is difficult for old pink wood to feed foliage and, especially, flowers. Spring sanitary pruning helps to avoid this problem. Cutting out the woody stems, the owner helps the rose in the formation of new, young ones.

Important! The old branch is cut at ground level.

Ambulance

It happens that all the conditions for caring for a rose are met: young, has optimal nutrition, there is no root growth, the planting site is good, but still it does not bloom. The young florist is perplexed and lowers his hands.

Actions to be taken:

Remove all, without exception, unnecessary shoots - thin, blind, small.
Following is a stimulating circumcision on a strong bud, leaf.
Offer the culture humate and potassium with trace elements.

Pests and diseases do not allow the plant to bloom. For each variety, the reason for this case is individual:

Having been engaged in flowers for a long time, each gardener accumulates his personal experience, writes down useful observations and methods applicable to certain flowers. However, there are universal tips and observations that can be applied to many species:

Feeding indoor roses during dormancy will lead to excessive stretching of the stems.
Picky home roses can be protected from pests by putting a few match heads when transplanting into a pot.
When a rose is stunted, it is difficult to wait for flowering from it. Onion infusion will help correct this situation. It is a unique natural stimulant and antibiotic.
Faded colors of foliage and flowers on rose bushes can be revived with a banana decoction. The crushed peel is poured with boiling water and kept for 2 days before feeding.

If rose bushes are given due attention, no pests and external causes will prevent them from delighting everyone with their flowering.

The purpose of planting roses in the garden is to enjoy luxurious flowering. If it does not occur, then a mistake was made during the landing or in the process of leaving.

Causes of delayed flowering

Even if one of the needs of the queen of the garden is not taken into account, the plant is naughty.

Bad place

Roses prefer a sunny location. Planting them in a deaf shade, you can not wait for flowering. The ground under the bush should warm up well. This stimulates the formation of new buds on the graft, from which flower-bearing shoots grow. Therefore, experienced rose specialists do not mulch.

In the northern regions, roses need the sun throughout the day, in the south - enough in the first half, then diffuse shade

recent landing

It is premature to expect flowering in the first year after planting. Even if it comes, it will be weak, sometimes even uncharacteristic for the variety. It is better not to let the rose bloom, but to pinch the buds when they reach the size of a pea. A young bush should first grow powerful roots.

Climbing ramblers do not always bloom in their second year, unless the shoots have overwintered well.

If a first-year rose has buds already larger than a pea, it is better not to pinch them off, but let it bloom

running wild

Usually roses are grafted onto wild roses. If the inoculation is done poorly or when planting is not buried 5 cm below the soil level, then shoots can grow from the stock. If you do not get rid of it, the bush will be depleted and the scion will degenerate. It is necessary to remove the wilds on the ring in a timely manner. They are distinguished by thin shoots with big amount thorns and small leaves.

Over time, an uncircumcised wild rose will completely suffocate a varietal rose.

How to remove wild rose shoots - video

Wrong arrangement of lashes

If the climbing rose is not blooming, make sure that the branches are fixed on the support correctly: spirally or obliquely. Otherwise, the buds that are higher up the shoot secrete substances that stop the laying of flower buds at the bottom of the stem.

Horizontally arranged lashes of roses bloom profusely

Cropping problems

If black spots with a red border appear on the shoots, this is an infectious burn. The disease is incurable, the affected branches will never bloom, so they are cut to the ground.

Infectious burn is caused by fungi, most often roses fall ill in the spring after an unsuccessful wintering.

Usually each stem ends in flowers. If they are not there, it is a blind shoot with a frozen growth point, which is cut in half to force it to branch and bloom.

During the summer, wilted buds are removed to achieve re-blooming. The set fruits take away a lot of nutrients. But there is an exception to the rule: at the end of August, faded roses are not cut, so as not to encourage them to form new shoots. The latter will not have time to flourish, they will freeze in winter and become a gateway for infection.

By cutting off faded roses, we stimulate a new wave of flowering

On three-year-old shoots, bud formation stops due to a violation of sap flow. They are cut into a ring at the very grafting to rejuvenate the rose. On own-rooted specimens, "oldies" are cut off at soil level. This stimulates the growth of new shoots, prolongs the life of the rose.

Beginning flower growers should learn to distinguish between groups of roses, as the incorrect formation of a bush prevents it from blooming. Climbing, English, park groups do not tolerate radical spring pruning. They only slightly shorten the tops of the shoots to the first large bud. The remaining shoots are cut out only if they are old or diseased.

English roses by David Austin are very whimsical, but bloom luxuriously

Violations of agricultural technology

Both excess and lack of nutrition can stop flowering. It is important to observe the measure. The rose is fed if it needs it: the shoots and leaves become smaller, spots appear on them. In June - July they give nitrogen fertilizers, 1-2 top dressings. Ideally, in spring, the soil under the bushes is sprinkled with rotted horse manure - the best organic "food" for roses. But an excess of nitrogen is also fraught: the plant fats, forgetting about flowering, and becoming especially attractive to aphids and various fungi.

At the beginning of spring, roses are fed with nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate.

From the end of July, nitrogen is canceled and switched to potash and phosphorus fertilizers: ash, potassium magnesia, potassium monophosphate. These substances help the lashes to ripen, overwinter and bloom in the spring.

In my practice, there were cases when roses did not bloom. This usually happened in the first year after planting, so I was not worried. In order for the bushes to take root better, I fed them with humates. At the end of August, she watered with infusion of ash. I didn’t use anything else, because I fill the planting pit well with mineral fertilizers and humus. As you know, in such cases, it is advisable not to feed the roses for the first two years. For the winter, I spud the bushes with the following mixture: rotted sifted compost (or manure), earth, sand and ash. In the second year, I usually wait for flowering, which is breathtaking.

Rose emergency

If all requirements are met, the shoots are healthy, but do not bloom, follow these steps:

remove on the ring all frail branches growing inside or at the bottom of the bush, including mole rats;
cut off the remaining normal shoots (with a pencil and thicker) above the most well-developed bud or leaf;
feed the rose with potassium humate with trace elements (according to the instructions on the package);
when young sprouts appear from the axils of the leaves of the cut main shoots, spray the rose with a flowering biostimulator, for example, Bud.

These measures will encourage the queen of the garden to bloom.

Potassium humate revives roses

Proper pruning of blind shoots - video

In order for a rose to bloom, it is important to provide it with conditions: light, nutrition, care. If necessary, the plant is given ambulance in the form of special top dressing and pruning that stimulates flowering.

Climbing roses are very sensitive to planting and care. Everything about rose care, including my own fifteen years of personal experience growing large and small flowered roses.

Right choice places for their planting and further competent care are the key conditions for success in growing climbing roses!

How to choose the right place for planting climbing roses

Even simple hybrid tea roses are recommended to be planted in a sunny place, protected from cold winds. Moreover, this recommendation applies to climbing roses, which are raised above the ground to a considerable height. Strong winds generally contraindicated for roses, and in the shade, roses bloom worse and suffer from powdery mildew.

What soils do climbing roses prefer?

Climbing roses prefer cultivated, humus-rich and breathable soils. If the soil in the area is moist and prone to stagnant water, plant them in a raised flower bed. In principle, this recommendation is suitable for everyone, raised beds are warmer and easier to care for.

It is better to prepare a landing site in advance. Roses prefer slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5) soils. For more acidic soils when processing, add 500 g of lime per 1 m 2. Before planting, apply 3-4 buckets per 1 m 2 of rotted manure, humus or compost to the entire depth of the treated layer. You can add clean sand.

Personal experience: climbing rose variety Ilse.The variety of this climbing rose is valued for its remontant nature.

Planting dates for climbing roses

Until the end of August, plant climbing rose seedlings sold in containers. They take root well and winter in open field. In August or July (in the case of a cool summer), if necessary, adult bushes can be transplanted.

My personal experience of transplanting an adult rose bush

I have already moved my large-flowered and small-flowered rose bushes to a new location many times. At the same time, the time of transplantation fell on both spring and autumn. In any case, the roses took root. The key to a good survival rate of a climbing rose after transplantation isstrong pruning bush! Do not be afraid, roses will recover in just a couple of years, and even due to pruning, they will rejuvenate and bloom better.

I personally did not use any Kornevins or Epins during transplantation, there were no problems anyway. Perhaps for more capricious varieties, which are not in my small collection, they will be needed.

And of course, if possible, transplant with a large clod of earth. Bushes after transplantation can even be slightly deepened compared to the previous planting, but not much.

The optimal distance between the bushes of climbing roses

Climbing roses grow quickly, so plant them 1-1.5 m apart (when planted in a row). Of course, in most recommendations you will find a distance that is much higher than this figure. These recommendations are suitable for the southern regions of our country. But if you want to get real rose scenes in the Moscow region, plant roses closer.

My personal experience in growing climbing roses

On a plot about 4 meters long, today I have 2 bushes growing. BUT! These two bushes have long been actually 10 different rose bushes, resulting from 2 mother plants planted initially. I achieved this gradually and purposefully, so that in the event of the death of a bush, the flower garden would not be empty and there would still be roses on it.

To do this, every year for several years in the fall, I poured earth into the root of the bush and slightly diverted the soft branches to the sides (due to laying for the winter). In the spring she raked the earth, but not completely- partially left these branches sprinkled. And now I additionally make layers from the climbing rose to the sides along the garden. This gives a permanent spare planting material for friends and neighbors and increases the growing points of the most climbing rose in my own garden.

Personal experience: a variety of low climbing roses Eric Tabarly. I grow it like a scrub, I didn’t pull it on a braided one, despite its considerable age. I moved to other places a couple of times, but the new location did not change the situation.

How to water climbing roses. When and how much water do they need?

Roses love abundant watering, especially climbing large-flowered roses require a lot of water. It is better to water bushes rarely, but plentifully (up to 25 liters of water per adult climbing rose bush). By the end of summer, reduce watering roses to a minimum.

My personal experience with watering climbing roses

I water roses, as a rule, in the evening under the root with water from a hose from a common plumbing system. The main thing here-water not on the leaves, i.e. from watering by sprinkling refuse immediately and forever.

Personal experience: rose variety Polka 91 -low climber. Quite stable, blooms profusely.

When, how much and what fertilizers should be applied under climbing roses

Climbing roses - plants are quite large, and they need appropriate nutrition. In the first year after planting a climbing rose, subject to the basic rules of planting (planting pit filled with organic matter, mulching), bushes can not be fed. During the season, roses are fed 4-5 times. The first time - immediately after spring pruning, at the stage of bud swelling (organic and mineral fertilizers at the rate of 150-200 g and 50 g per 1 m 2, respectively). Further, at the beginning of the growth of shoots (organic with mineral water, the main elements are phosphorus and potassium), the third - during the budding period and the fourth - after the first flowering with a complete complex fertilizer with microelements.

The last dressing of double-flowering climbing roses is carried out after the second flowering, using a mineral fertilizer with potassium and a minimum nitrogen content. At the same time, be careful: excessive fertilization can cause rapid growth of shoots that do not have time to ripen by winter.

My personal experience in feeding climbing roses

I don't bother with roses at all. If possible, I constantly add humus and compost, especially in the fall to the root for greater winter hardiness. From spring to July, I add complex mineral fertilizers, first with a predominance of nitrogen, then phosphorus and potassium. I pour all the fertilizers on my eye: I scatter it over the garden, loosen it and spill it with water.

Features of pruning small-flowered and large-flowered climbing roses

In the spring, after opening the roses, remove all damaged shoots. In summer, use pruning to regulate flowering. It is necessary to cut off faded flowers to the first well-developed bud and remove blind (without buds) shoots, leaving 2-3 well-developed cinquefoils on each.

Small-flowered climbing roses

Small-flowered roses bloom once along the entire length of overwintered shoots. Therefore, carry out the main pruning in the fall, leaving 5-7 of the strongest annual shoots on the bush. Cut the rest to the base. In the spring, shoots are only slightly shortened (cutting 10-20 cm at the very top) and poorly overwintered shoots are removed.

Personal experience: You can get almost anything from a small-flowered rose: you can lift it up and get a classic climbing rose on a support, or you can leave it below and make itground cover. My rose has gone through many incarnations in its life. It looked very beautiful as a ground cover rose, while the bottom was decorated with Arends' white saxifrage. Their flowering does not match, but still together they look very beautiful.

Large-flowered climbing roses

Large-flowered roses form powerful shoots on which lateral flowering branches grow. Flowers are formed on shoots of the 2nd order. In the spring, carry out sanitary pruning: cut out all damaged shoots. Form a large-flowered rose after flowering: cut out all old (over 3 years of age) shoots, small branches that will not have flowers, and weak ones. Leave only long healthy young shoots. In September-October, cut out all the weak and unripe.

Standard climbing roses

Standard small-flowered roses are pruned, forming a harmonious weeping crown in accordance with the requirements of the garden group to which the grafted variety belongs.

My personal experience with pruning large-flowered and small-flowered roses

The main thing I do with roses-I constantly cut them, or rather 3 times a year:

I cut roses for the first time in spring: with a pruner I remove all shoots damaged and dead during the winter;

the second time I cut the roses after flowering: this is the biggest cut of the year. At this point I am shaping the roses for next year. I prune all shoots older than 3 years. I leave only young, even and strong shoots with bright green bark. I cut off the remains of flowers up to 70%;

prune roses for the third time autumn in October-November-I remove unripened shoots and prune too long ones that cannot be laid under cover.

A garter to a support of a climbing rose

Climbing roses need support, otherwise you'll end up with a huge groundcover. And if it is in principle possible to do this with ramblers, then large-flowered ones must be raised. The support must be strong enough to support the weight of the rose. Shoots are tied up in early May, removed from the support in October.

My personal experience with garter large-flowered roses

The secret of my support is simple! For the base, I used ready-made metal poles for an ordinary country fence. These poles are sold at every garden or construction market. For a length of 4 m, I dug in 3 pillars, painted in green color. Such ready-made poles always have special welded ears for attaching bars, on which boards are then nailed. So, every spring we attach to these ears wooden grate and every fall we shoot it. Three people do this: two hold the grate and the rose, the third one screws or unscrews the grate with a screwdriver.

Our grills are at least 5 years old, for the winter we put them behind the shed, where they hang on the wall under the roof. In summer they keep a rose. The fact that the lattice is removable makes it much easier for us to lay the rose for the winter and raise it. When the grate is removed, the rose itself lies under its own weight on the lawn. And in the spring, the rose is immediately placed on a support, and it is practically not necessary to tie up the whips.- only those who try to escape to the side.

How to properly prepare a climbing rose bush for winter so that it does not freeze, rot or splatter?

The main secret of sheltering climbing roses is in their proper fit. Even before buying a seedling, calculate exactly where you will lay the rose: its shoots can reach a length of 2-2.5 m! Usually, a section of the lawn is left next to the rose, on which it is then laid, spreading spruce branches or large branches (boards) from below so that the grass does not come into contact with the shoots.

A climbing rose can also be laid on a flower garden. However, if you have a lot in the flower garden perennials that do not require shelter, then this may negatively affect them: they will simply sweat out and die. In this option, planting roses together with grapes or clematis, which have the same requirements for winter shelter, is ideal.

Climbing roses cover for the winter using a special technology

At the end of October, remove all plant debris under the bushes and dig up the soil. Then treat the bushes with iron sulfate from fungal diseases. After that, begin to gradually bend the whips to the ground (most bushes cannot be laid in one go). In this position, fix the shoots. Then install arcs on top so that the roses do not break with snow, and lay in 2 layers of non-woven covering material with a density of 60 g per m 2.

My personal experience in sheltering large climbing roses

I had to learn to cover climbing roseswhen there were no ready-made covering materials on sale yet. But around our dachas there was a beautiful mixed forest, so every year in September-October, spruce branches were brought to the site, with the help of which shelter was made.

So, step one: pour 2-4 buckets of humus or just earth into the legs of the bush;

Step two: we lay logs on the ground, spruce branches on top and even higher lashes of roses;

Step Three: at the onset of permanent negative temperatures(approximately -10 ° C at night and -5 ° C during the day) we cover with rose branches and from above. Additionally, we press the spruce branches on top with logs and leave it all until spring. In May we ventilate, in April we gradually remove the shelter. When using spruce branches, it is very convenient to vary the degree of cover.

Now the sheltering method is very similar to the old one, but the spruce branches go much less, since it is used not for insulation, but rather for volume. I put a little spruce branch down under the roses and stick it next to the lawn to create a hut over the bushes, on which I then throw covering material. AND EVERYTHING! Voila!

Personal experience: Shoots of a rose damaged during the winter by mice. The only time roses didn't come out well after winter was in 2010. And it was not the frost and not the thaw that were to blame. The winter was so snowy and frosty that the mice had nothing to eat, and in the truest sense of the word they ate my roses, i.e. cleaned off the entire bark from the shoots! Roses had to be cut completely! But a year later I already had neat, rejuvenated bushes again, and after two I realized that such a strong pruning undoubtedly benefited them.

Personal experience: The state of the rose for 2014

Features of reproduction of climbing roses

Most large climbing roses are very difficult to propagate by cuttings, but easily by layering. In June, take a mature but flexible shoot of a climbing rose to the side and partially dig in. After 2 seasons, you will get a well-rooted rosette, which you can separate from the mother bush and transplant to a new place or just give it to friends.

If you need to get a bush by next spring, then before digging in the shoot, make an incision 5-8 cm long on its lower part and insert a match into it.

You can do the same with a small rosette, this is one of the most simple ways giving very high results.

My personal experience in breeding large-flowered and small-flowered roses

It exactly repeats the above, however, I don’t bother with matches. Just every year in June I do 2-3 layers. Roses, allotted 2 years ago, I distribute in the spring. All friends and neighbors are already gifted. It was also possible to breed a large climbing rose from a cutting, but there are much more problems, which means there is no point in getting involved. Although a climbing rose from a cutting, of course, also grows in my area and feels great.