Many will agree with the statement that a magical atmosphere reigns in a wooden house. Such a “hut” seems to have come out of a fairy tale, and looks quite harmonious both in the forest and in the suburbs of the metropolis. If you want to create just such a home, you should use the Canadian felling method. About a decade ago, few people heard about this method, but today Canadian felling is quite common. It is noteworthy that in Canada this method has been used since the 70s of the last century, and, therefore, the technology has been time-tested.

Material selection

Canadian felling of houses involves the use of logs that meet specific standards. Experts insist on the use of logs with a diameter of at least 30 cm at the top. This condition must be met in connection with the specifics of shrinkage and shrinkage of the entire log structure. A larger diameter can be used at the request of the customer - the thicker the log, the fewer crowns are needed for the log structure, which, of course, will have a positive effect on the preservation of heat in the future house. The thick log guarantees thermal insulation of the corner cups.

The length of the logs used can be 14m. In the process of erecting walls that exceed this parameter in length or according to design needs, docking can be carried out using screw ties. In addition, the docking site must be closed with a transverse wall of the cut. It turns out that for wide-area projects, using different lengths harvested logs, you can build buildings of any shape and size. It is important to choose the right logs for quality, diameter and length.

In the process of building wooden cottages Canadian felling uses only coniferous wood. This is due to the high resistance of coniferous wood to moisture. environment. Such a house will not be destroyed either in wet weather, or in rain or snow. Such wood contains many resins, in addition, it has a high density.

Can be used:

• pine. It is traditionally used for the construction of log cabins. The level of its resinousness and high density guarantee the durability of the structure, and the attractive amber shade of timber makes it possible to leave the cottage without cladding.
• larch. Its strength is 30% higher than that of pine. The resin content is also higher, so it is more resistant to microbial attack. This wood is a good option for baths
• cedar (cedar pine) is a natural antiseptic. Since ancient times, people have noticed that this wood heals those who live in the house.
• red Canadian cedar.

Technology

Canadian felling, the technology of which is excellent when you need a log cabin with a round log, perfectly protects against drafts. Also, this type of felling makes it possible not to think about the constant refilling of the log house. After all, the technology itself assumes the absence of gaps.

The Canadian log house is built using the tongue-and-groove technology. The groove is a Canadian cup, it faces downwards, as a result of which additional protection against drafts and moisture is guaranteed. The groove is trapezoidal in shape, and the spike coinciding with it is wedge-shaped. This is what prevents the cups from opening during shrinkage with the formation of cracks (as in the case of Russian felling), but “wedged” the logs one on top of the other. It is worth noting that neither moisture nor air comes into contact with the insulation in the bowl, which means that it retains all its properties.

In the process of forming the Canadian cup, a two-sided log cut is used at an angle of 45-50 degrees. However, the accuracy of the angle is determined by a specialist for specific logs and adjusted manually. Two diameters of the log itself (often 60 cm) are taken as the length of the notch. It is very important to align the lines of the notches with the line of pairing of the cups, to ensure the integrity of the logs.

As a guarantee of perfect abutment and “jamming” of the log in the groove and cups during shrinkage, it is worth leaving a special saddle gap of approximately 25 mm. This process is called hanging logs - underscribing or drawing with magnification.

Experts distinguish two types of bowl (lock):

• classic with two veneers at the top
• diamond or diamond notch, which has four notches, two on top and two on the bottom. Quite similar to a Norwegian castle, only on a round log.

In the Canadian felling, there are log releases at the places of corner joints, which are called “corners”. Such releases are issued different ways: smooth end, along the radius, in a run, figured / curvilinear. The use of logs in the corners of the butt "skirts" allows you to give an attractive style log houses, which emphasizes the uniqueness and natural beauty of natural architecture.

Why it is worth building according to the Canadian felling

There are a number of reasons why it is worth constructing buildings according to Canadian technology:

• this method obliges builders to pick and process each log by hand. Even the planing and skinning of logs has to be done by the hands of specialists, and not by machines, which makes it possible to choose the most quality material and to achieve its best condition for construction. Thus, a log prepared for a Canadian felling compares favorably with a rounded one.
• heat saving is the main concept for this technology. For this reason, even cups for insulation and grooves are selected manually to ensure the most accurate fit.
• due to the peculiarities of fitting logs, it is possible to erect a log house in such a way that it looks like a continuous array without joints, gaps, gaps. The insulation is not visible either from the outside or from the inside, and the second “caulk” is not needed
• Canadian log cutting assumes that during the formation of walls, the outer layer of the tree is not removed, this guarantees the building additional bioprotection and protection against freezing
• the wood layer is an obstacle to damage by microorganisms, and also saves the material from destruction from ultraviolet radiation, burnout. This means that the tree does not change its color under the sun and its properties over time.
• the log retains natural curves, the natural shape and structure of the surface, thus some artificiality is removed from the log house
• using this technology, a special microclimate is formed in the house, as a result of which the level of comfort and coziness increases. The bathhouse looks very advantageous - Canadian felling makes it possible to save the maximum number of properties of the original tree for this room.

Disadvantages of Canadian felling

Of the shortcomings, it is worth highlighting:

• possible errors arising from the fact that the crowns are selected by eye without special measurements
• inexperienced craftsmen may not symmetrically mount horizontal crowns
• only experienced craftsmen can build using Canadian technology
• high price.

Introduced in Canada only about 20 years ago, Hybrid Post ® Beam technology combined traditional Canadian felling and Post ® Beam log framing techniques, greatly expanding the architectural design of façades.

In the simplest version of the use of hybrid technology, a log first floor is built using a classic Canadian felling, and the attic and porch of the house are built using a frame method. Post® Beam. Recently, however, both methods of construction are increasingly combined within the same floor.

CANADIAN CUTTING

Wooden housing construction in North America owes its origin to emigrants from the Old World who used European traditions and construction methods.

In the new technology (the first standard regulating it is dated 1976, the last - 2012), the marking system, the design of the joints and the principles of combating shrinkage from the Norwegian cutting system were taken as the basis, but at the same time, the frame was made not from a gun carriage, but from a round log .

Thus, Canadian cutting is considered to be a kind of symbiosis of the Norwegian and Russian methods making corner joints.

The Canadian cup is shaped like a trapezoidal saddle. On the upper part of the lower mating log, two notches are made at an angle of D5-500 (the exact value depends on the diameter).

The minimum length of the cuts is two log diameters, maximum width tops of a landing saddle - 90 mm. A correspondingly shaped groove is cut in the upper mating log, the depth of which must be at least 25 mm greater than the height of the saddle.

As a result, a so-called saddle gap is formed above the top of the connection of the lower log with the upper one, which will disappear when the mating rims shrink as a result of the shrinkage of the wood. For a long time, Canadians were limited to a similar cup, which allows them to get a fairly strong and dense self-jamming joint called “in the saddle”. But it had one drawback - it did not save the wood from twisting when it dried.

That is why later a special spike was introduced into the design of the lock, cut out in the bowl of the upper mating log, and a corresponding groove was provided at the top of the lower saddle. (According to some experts, the spike also helps to reduce the ventilation of corner joints, but not everyone agrees with this thesis). Then another innovation appeared - a saddle-shaped lock began to be made not only in the upper, but also in the lower part of the log, due to which the so-called diamond bowl is obtained. As a result, today there are three options for connecting to a Canadian cup: with serrations (“in the saddle”), with serrations and a spike, as well as with upper and lower clasps and a spike.

Another feature of the Canadian felling is the original shape of the longitudinal grooves in the mating logs. So, in the lower part of the upper log, a double groove (doublegrove) is cut in the shape of the letter W, and in the upper part of the lower one - a single (vigruve) in the shape of the letter V.

True, domestic carpenters, gradually mastering a new technology for themselves, abandoned the use of both, replacing these grooves with a lunar semicircular groove more familiar to Russian felling, but with sharp lower edges (as in a Finnish or Norwegian cabin), which allows you to reliably hide inside the groove from bad weather intervening heater. The width of such a groove is usually at least 12 cm, but can be up to % of the diameter of the log, due to which the connection is much warmer than in the Canadian version.

Types of corner cuts

1. Russian felling in an okhlop

The connecting bowl is located at the bottom of the top log, which makes the corner connection more resistant to precipitation.
2. Russian cabin in fat tail

It has an improved bowl with a special spike - fat tail. On the opposite side of the log, a groove is created for the spike of the next log
3.Norwegian cabin from the gun carriage

Reminiscent of a cut into a fat tail, but the bowl is formed by inclined notches, due to which, when the tree dries out, the connection self-compacts under the weight of the crowns
4. Canadian felling from a log

A symbiosis of the Norwegian and Russian felling into a fat tail - on the top of the log they create sloping notches and a groove for a spike in the lower bowl of the upper log

POST ® BEAM TECHNOLOGY

The Canadian Post ® Beam felling is, in fact, a direct descendant of the now almost forgotten Russian felling in a fence (in a post, in a rack, in a raft), in which the frame of the building is assembled from vertical posts with grooves selected along them. Logs are inserted horizontally into the latter, at the ends of which spikes corresponding in geometry are pre-cut.

At the same time, a longitudinal recess is made in the lower part of each horizontal log, filled with a compactor (moss, tow, etc.), as in other types of Russian felling. But if in Rus' the space between the logs was usually filled with the so-called whips (thin tops of the trunks), and this technology was used mainly for the construction of unheated outbuildings, then in Norway, and then in Canada, residential buildings were successfully built on it.

The difference was that in Norway, a gun carriage was used to fill the spaces between the posts, and in Canada, rather thick logs (their diameter was at least 300 mm).

Yes, and the posts themselves in the Canadian version of felling have become more powerful - their diameter physically cannot be less than 400 mm, since in the area where the filling logs adjoin them, it is necessary to make cuts with a width of 200 mm or more on the posts. The use of large-diameter logs is not only a tribute to fashion and beauty, but also an opportunity to reduce the number of crowns of a log structure, which, in turn, reduces heat loss through the walls.

It should be noted that in the Post ® Beam technology, the openings between the posts can be filled not only with logs, but also with insulated frame structures, blocks (including those made of foamed materials), and glass. The wall skeleton is firmly connected with the no less powerful sleg construction of the roof, making up almost a single whole with it.

Left: Canadian bowl - traditional version Involves the manufacture of notches (“cheeks”) only on the top of the log. Suitable for connecting logs of any diameter, and especially for combining logs of small and large diameters
Right: Bowl "Canadian Diamond"
The notches are made on the upper and lower parts of the log, it turns out more time-consuming, but unusually beautiful connection. Only suitable for connecting large diameter logs

CANADIAN CUT - CONSTRUCTION PROCESS

The production of the necessary elements and the pre-assembly of the house, the construction of which combined both log and frame technologies, were carried out on a specially equipped construction site located near the places of timber harvesting.

Thus, it was possible not only to select the most suitable blanks for each structural element, but also to control the work of carpenters at all stages, and in addition, to use lifting equipment without time limits. But the main advantage of such an organization of work is as follows.

Structures of this type are built using not only Canadian cups, but also grooves and spikes of a wide variety of shapes and sizes, which must be carefully (and therefore long) carried out and scrupulously adjusted to each other, otherwise the house will be impossible to assemble.

That is why the production of log and frame elements and pre-assembly stretch for many months. However, the customer is not present preparatory stage, but only watches how on his site in just a few days the skeleton of the future house is assembled from the logs brought.

Upon completion of the work, the builders marked each structural element and drew up an assembly diagram (it is a necessary annex to the construction contract). Then the frame was dismantled, packed and transported to the client's site, where it was reassembled, but now on the foundation, which was a monolithic slab.

The frame was mounted on wooden dowels, giving rigidity to the wall structure. During the installation of the roof, technological methods and details were used, allowing the elements truss system slide freely relative to the log walls during the shrinkage of the log house.

The progress of the construction of a house made of logs of Siberian cedar with a diameter of 35 to 100 cm is presented in sufficient detail in the photographs, so we will only comment on the stage of the construction of the roof, which remained “behind the scenes”. On top of the rafters, a solid flooring was built from boards, thus obtaining a ceiling.

Through the vapor barrier, with a step of 60 cm, boards with a section of 200 * 50 mm were nailed to it, setting them on a narrow edge. In the cavity between the boards, slabs of mineral wool insulation with a total thickness of 200 mm were laid in layers, covered with a vapor-permeable membrane, which was pressed against the boards with counter-lattices with a cross section of 50 * 50 mm. Next, a wooden crate made of a bar with a section of 100 x 25 mm, pre-treated with an antiseptic composition, was attached to the counter-rails, and to the latter - a flooring made of metal tiles of the color chosen by the owners.

ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF KANDAS CUTTING

As we have already noted, recently in our country there has been an increased interest in the Canadian cabin and related Post ® Beam and Hybrid Post ® Beam technologies, about which many laudatory reviews are published. Of course, these methods have certain advantages, but not all of them are absolutely indisputable. Let's start with the advantages of the Canadian felling itself, first of all, with its undoubted plus.

In the Canadian bowl, double-sided notching is performed only in the lower log. The result is a cone-shaped “saddle”-zamon, self-compacting as the wood dries out. Such a solution eliminates the appearance of cracks in the corners of the log house and eliminates the need for re-caulking.

But with other theses it is quite possible to argue.

The Canadian bowl is a stronger and warmer connection than the Russian bowl.

When compared with a regular round bowl cut into a bun or oshlop, then the Canadian one is really stronger. However, such cuts as in a fat tail or in an okhlop with a cut are in no way inferior to it in strength, and a cut into a hook even surpasses it.

If we talk about the "warmth" of the connection, then with a log diameter of 300 mm, the thickness of the wood at the junction of the logs in the Canadian cup in the narrowest part does not exceed 200-250 mm. The width of the insulation laid in the saddle gap in this zone is a maximum of 70 mm. The thickness of the wood layer when combined into a Russian bowl is almost equal to the diameter of the log. In this case, the latter is insulated over the entire area. So which of the two compounds is warmer?

The next statement: it is less laborious in execution. Yes, it is really easier to make a trapezoid with almost flat edges by sawing out with a chainsaw than, as in the Russian version, cutting out a bowl with an ax, adze and even a chisel.

But let's not forget that the implementation of the Canadian bowl also implies a rather complicated double drawing of logs, as well as large volume manual grinding. That is why the price of Canadian log cabins is quite high. It is necessary to take into account the influence of processing methods on the durability of the tree. The saw loosens, “fringes” the surface of the wood, which, even after grinding, remains vulnerable to moisture penetration. The ax smoothes the outer layers, closing the pores, which prevents the penetration of moisture into the product. So which option is better?

Now about Post ® Beam technology. Like all frame construction methods, it allows you to build houses on permanent place their location with greater speed (assembly lasts 1-2 weeks). And you can start finishing the walls immediately after the installation of the skeleton is completed (the structure is not subject to shrinkage).

But if we talk about the Hybrid Post ® Beam technology, in which the log structure is combined with the frame structure, then when shrinking, they will behave completely differently. Of course, the situation can be saved by the screw shrinkage compensators installed under each pillar, but only on condition that the need for their regulation will be monitored by experienced specialists. In general, the construction of such houses - structurally complex, with elements that have a huge mass - should be trusted exclusively to professionals in this technology. And, unfortunately, we still don't have many of those.

And yet, the appearance on the Russian market of a new technology cannot but rejoice, because it opens up wide opportunities for architects to implement various ideas designed to make every house unusual and even unique, like a work of art. Besides. Hybrid Post ® Beam saves money cash due to the use of lighter foundation options ( frame structure lighter than log) and reducing the timing of the start of finishing work.

SCHEMES OF THE PROCESS OF SHRINKING OF THE RUSSIAN AND CANADIAN BOWLS

1. The shape of the bowl partially repeats the surface of the lower log. Insulation is laid over the entire area of ​​​​the bowl

2. Logs are adjusted to each other more accurately. Insulation is placed in the so-called saddle gap

3-4. Cups of both types undergo changes during shrinkage. Depending on the initial moisture content of the logs, their diameter decreases by 5-10 96. Accordingly, the shape of the bowls and the size of the gaps in them change. The log house starts to sag

5. Large gaps remain at the bottom of the cup, which will have to be caulked with linen jute or tow

6. Due to the triangular shape of the bowl, the connection is self-sealing. No need to caulk

Filling frame walls

The connection of the ends of the horizontal elements with vertical logs-racks was carried out according to the "thorn-groove" system: the groove was selected in the racks (a), and the spikes were cut out at the ends of the filling logs (b). In the lower part of each log, a longitudinal groove was selected, into which, during the final assembly, an interventional sealant was inserted. The tenon-groove joints were also sealed.

Additional Information

CLEANING THE BARK WITH A JET OF WATER

When processing wood, it is important to preserve its natural properties. That is why devices are increasingly being used to remove the bark from a log using a pressurized water jet. With such debarking, the metal of the tool does not come into contact with the most important protective layer of the log - sapwood and does not damage it. As a result, wood not only retains the natural beauty and texture of the surface, but also better withstands environmental influences.

CENTURY-OLD TRADITIONS

The main tool of a carpenter, like many centuries ago, is a “line” - a tool similar to a compass: when marking, one leg slides over the surface of the lower log, the second draws a line on the upper one. Another old, but equally indispensable tool is an adze, with which a longitudinal groove is made. Such an ax smoothes the outer layers of wood, closing the pores and preventing moisture from penetrating inside the product.

LITTLE TRICKS

It is no secret that when cutting with a chainsaw, logs across the edge of the cut are overgrown with thin chips. To prevent their appearance, a simple technique is used - a knife is first drawn along the cut line. In this case, chips may appear only on the cut off part of the log.

Corner cuts are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without residue (in the paw) and with the remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo).

Types of angle chopped joints

Corner cuts are the basis of the construction of the walls of wooden houses. Corner joints are of two types - without residue (in the paw) and with the remainder (in the bowl, in the oblo). Each of the mentioned types of cabins, in turn, has different design options, which differ in manufacturing complexity, details and efficiency.

Corner chopped joints with the remainder (output) are distinguished by the protruding ends of the logs at the corners of the log house. With this method of construction, the size of the room will be slightly smaller than the length of the logs, but such a corner design is the most durable and well protected from precipitation and wind, and has a more beautiful aesthetic appearance. The integrity and strength of the entire structure depends on the quality of the felling. wooden house, thermal qualities and aesthetics.

Cuttings with residual or with release

Oblo felling

The cutting method leading in simplicity with the remainder and considered one of the oldest in Russian wooden architecture. Another such way of cutting is called cutting into a bowl. An interventional longitudinal groove (lunar groove) and a special bowl are created in the lower log - a semicircular cavity into which a transverse log is placed on top. This method is the least laborious, since the log does not have to be turned over - all the necessary operations are performed in the upper part of the log. But, it is worth considering that such a connection cannot boast of high performance properties. Firstly, the design, decided by the bowl up, is poorly protected from atmospheric influences - moisture easily gets into the bowl, due to which the insulation gets wet, and rots over the years. The same situation is observed with the groove between the logs. Secondly, the flat inner plane of the bowl is easily blown by the wind due to the absence of locking or transverse elements. Especially the situation worsens after the logs dry out and shrink, so regular caulking will be necessary.

chopping

The felling into the okhlupen is also known as the Siberian bowl or okhlupen. It is an inverted version of the connection in the bowl. His design feature in that the interventional groove and bowl are now in the lower part of the upper log. This type of corner connection is more resistant to precipitation. The felling into a flake requires more labor and skill in execution, in comparison with the above-mentioned felling into a flail, since the log has to be turned over several times in the process of fitting. As practice shows, cutting into a flail can be called a cutting into a flail, therefore it is advisable to clarify everything in detail and discuss in detail with the performers all aspects of the connection - the location of the grooves, bowls and other subtleties.

Cutting into a fat tail

The felling in a fat tail differs in an improved bowl. In the design of the bowl, a special additional spike is created, called a fat tail. On the other side of the log, a groove is created into which the spike of the next log is inserted. This cutting method is remarkable in that it provides excellent strength and additional sealing of the corners, since in this case direct blowing is nullified.

When cutting into a fat tail, the bowl can be oriented both up and down. This type of connection is technically much more complicated than conventional bowls. However, due to its excellent performance, fat tail felling is widespread. This type of felling is often referred to as a felling with a cut or with a spike. In camom, however, this is a completely different kind of connection, which is described below.

Hook cutting

Talking about this type of chopped connection into a hook, it is worth noting that in practice and in specialized literature, cutting into a hook can be called two absolutely various designs corner cut. Based on this, we will pay attention to both.

The first option is notable for the fact that the bowl is chosen only up to the middle of the log (from the axis of the log on one side). A semicircular groove is created from the top side of the log to the unselected rest of the bowl. Unlike many other cuts, thanks to this method of connection, the corner is completely protected from through blowing. The method of cutting into a hook is considered very durable and warm. However, it is worth considering that hooking into a hook is a very laborious process and requires great skill.

The second option differs in that it provides for sifting inside logs and achievement c smooth interior walls right angle. To some extent, the configuration of the joint of this cut resembles the bowl with a notch mentioned above. The only difference is that from the inside the log is crimped by a quarter of its diameter, and the spike-cut is created equal in length to the value of the heel.

Canadian felling

Canadian felling, despite the presence of common features with fat-tail felling, differs significantly from it in form. Unlike the round Russian bowl, the Canadian felling is trapezoidal in shape. The Canadian bowl is selected in the log in its lower part. Just like when connecting to a fat tail, a spike is left inside the bowl in the Canadian felling. On the log from the upper side, inclined notches are created, repeating the outlines of the bowl of the log lying on top and the groove for the tenon. The Canadian bowl is famous for its strength, tightness, and, consequently, warmth. The most basic advantage of the Canadian lock in comparison with a round bowl is its shrinkage behavior.

In a log house with round bowls, the following situation is observed - as the logs shrink and shrink, their diameter decreases, while the parameters of the bowl remain practically unchanged. This leads to the appearance of cracks in the corners that need to be caulked. On the other hand, the “cunning” design of the Canadian lock, on the contrary, becomes wedged even more under the influence of shrinkage. All this guarantees excellent tightness and the absence of cracks.

It is worth noting that the Canadian felling consists not only in the non-standard form of the lock, but also includes a whole range of technological nuances, which, only in the case of impeccable execution, provide excellent tightness of the structure for many years.

One of the advantages of Canadian felling is the complete absence of gaps between logs. This salient feature observed not only in newly erected log cabins, but after their shrinkage and shrinkage. Thanks to this, it is enough to lay the insulation in the crowns only once and no longer remember about the caulk.

felling into the saddle

Cutting into the saddle - is a simplified way of Canadian felling with a spike. The only difference between this option is that a spike is not made in the bowl and a corresponding groove is not created in the upper part of the log. The rest of the design is similar to a Canadian castle.

norwegian felling

Norwegian cabin - almost identical to the Canadian cabin. The only difference between the Canadian and Norwegian felling is the gun carriage. The Canadian felling is made from a log, and the Norwegian from a gun carriage. Norwegian felling is made from a gun carriage, this is the so-called oval log. At the log, two parallel layers are cut or cut down from two sides, which makes the log oval along the entire length. The corner of the lock with serrations and a spike is similar to the Canadian lock. The walls, thanks to the smooth surfaces of the gun carriage, turn out to be even, and the volume of the room increases. Appearance Norwegian log house from gun carriage large size very impressive, the unique pattern of each carriage, the power and color of the house.

Cuttings without residue

Paw connection

This type of connection has a number of advantages over cuttings with residue. Firstly, material consumption is significantly reduced, which means that construction costs are reduced. Secondly, the rooms are more spacious. Thirdly, from the outside, the corners look perfectly straight. However, this connection method also has significant drawbacks. The main disadvantages of felling in the paw are the lower strength of the structure, increased windage, exposure to the negative effects of precipitation. To eliminate these shortcomings, the corners of the log cabins in the paw must be additionally veneered from the outside.

There are two options for felling into a paw - an oblique paw (dovetail) and a straight paw.

straight paw

With this type of felling, a small distance recedes from the corner and the log begins to be hewn from the sides first. Next, a “paw” is made at the end of the log - they create an even rectangle, which must necessarily fit perfectly with identical neighbors. The main secret that needs to be taken into account at the very beginning of cutting is that to create the first “paw”, you need to choose a thinner log and start from its narrow edge. Otherwise, if you start the procedure with a large diameter log, you won’t be able to make a rectangle on thin logs. The resulting width and length on all logs will be the same, but the height will be different, since it is determined by the diameter of the log.

As a rule, they try to supplement a straight paw from its inner corner with a rectangular root spike. This is done in order to achieve better performance properties, since in its pure form a straight paw is a rather weak connection. A spike is created on the upper face of the paw, and a groove for it is selected from the bottom side.

Koca paw

Cutting into an oblique paw is a more complex way of connecting. In this case, the shape of the paw is significantly modified, now it represents a trapezoid, the two planes of which are sloped. Features of the form formed the basis of the name "dovetail" (Fig. 2). This joint configuration provides greater corner strength than the "straight leg". However, this type of connection is very laborious and only highly skilled craftsmen can do it.

The skew paw can have an even more advanced configuration option - with a spike, which significantly improves its strength. During construction using the “oblique paw” connection, a template is removed from the first paw, for example, from plywood, and the remaining ends are marked on it.

When cutting into a slanting paw, you can use GOST 30974-2002 to select the correct connection options. In GOST, geometric dimensions are established for the paw, due to the diameter of the log. This will be especially advisable if the logs have almost the same diameter or a rounded (calibrated) log is used.

DESIGN FEATURES OF LOG WALLS

Despite the fact that wooden architecture has a long history, traditional technologies gradually undergo changes over time, acquiring more and more modern features. This also applies to wooden log cabins. The traditional structural units used for the construction of log walls since ancient times are gradually supplemented with various technical details that improve the performance of log walls. Next, we will touch on various design techniques that can be used to compensate for a number of shortcomings that arise due to the shrinkage of logs.

Connecting logs along the length

When constructing large wooden log cabins, developers usually face a situation where the length of the wall exceeds the length of the log. The standard log length is 6 meters. In this case, the logs must be butted with each other. So that the joints are not visible from the outside, the end connection of the logs is made exclusively inside the cuts. It is important to take into account that it is impossible to lay only all joined crowns in a row in height. At least through three rows of joined crowns, a solid log must necessarily go. However, dressing with a solid log is ideally best done through each row. In cases where the house has a long blank wall that does not intersect with other internal walls, an additional cut is made from short pieces of logs in this wall, into which all joints are removed.

To connect logs along the length, the dovetail configuration with a spike is traditionally used. This type of connection is quite simple in execution, but due to the shrinkage of logs, its strength may decrease over time.

Another method is often used for joining logs in the cut. With this method of joining, the logs are attached to the dowels. For each joined log, a distance of approximately 1/4 of the log diameter is set aside from the end and a hole is created for the dowels. In the adjacent perpendicular log, this hole is continued. Joined logs after installation of dowels are carefully connected with perpendicular cut logs.

Another very common way of joining logs is a screed with threaded studs. In this way, grooves are created at the joined logs from above at a small distance from the ends, and a cut is laid from them to the end. Then a stud with nuts and washers at the ends is placed in it, then the nuts are tightened, pulling the logs together. For the durability of the connection, the grooves (ideally logs) should be antiseptic with special wood preservatives.

Undercut

One of the most important components of the structure of log walls is the design of the interventional groove, also called the moon. To achieve a flawless connection of logs, the interventional groove should have a slightly smaller radius than the log itself. Then the log adjoins its neighbor with two ribs very tightly, and interventional insulation is placed in a small gap in the center of the groove. In this case, the edges of the groove protect the seal from getting wet. This design has one more significant advantage. Logs due to the shrinkage of wood are covered with cracks from the bottom side. The log literally "sets" when the edges of the seam slightly diverge. As a result, the logs, after shrinking the log house, fit even more tightly to each other. But if in the design the groove of the upper and the radius of the lower logs are identical in size, then after the occurrence of a crack, the edges of the groove will move apart, which will lead to the appearance of gaps between the logs, which will need to be caulked.

In this specific design of the lunar groove lies the main difference between traditional and modern cutting technologies. In the old days, tow or moss was traditionally used to insulate interventional joints, the log joints were repeatedly caulked. Nowadays, special rolls made of natural materials, for example tape jute, serve as interventional heaters, the width of the materials is selected depending on the width of the groove.

Compensation cut

The use of a compensatory relief cut at the top of the log is another modern refinement of centuries-old technology. The name itself already eloquently makes it clear that the cut is created in order to remove excess internal stresses. The location of the cut was chosen for a reason, because the cut is securely closed by the next log, which eliminates the penetration of moisture into it. The cut in the process of shrinkage expands, but the number of cracks throughout the log, and most importantly, their depth and size decrease.

A cut is made along the axis of the logs, but does not protrude at their ends and does not pass through the locks. Lack of cut at the ends - very important point. After all, the indents from the ends and cuts are not created for decoration, but to avoid the penetration of cold air from the street into the wall through the outer ends. This is especially important if the building has walls, the inner end of which goes into the house, and the outer end onto the street. In this case, the creation of a cut along the entire length of the log will lead to a through blowing of the wall, which will lead to the need for its additional sealing.

Hanging corners

This technology applies to all compounds with a residue. The technology of curtaining the outer corners can significantly reduce the appearance of intervent cracks after shrinkage of the log house. The essence of the technology lies in the fact that the interventional grooves on the protruding ends of the logs are selected a little more, so as to achieve a gap of 5-8 mm between the logs. As a result, the releases of logs freely stick out in the air, without leaning on each other.

The dignity of this constructive solution in that, being in the air, the outer ends of the logs dry out much less than the rest of the log. As the log shrinks, the gaps gradually decrease, and the ends, in turn, fit more tightly. While the absence of gaps would lead to hanging logs on the outer outlets. In this case, on internal parts cracks would have formed at the corner, since the inner diameter of the logs would have slightly exceeded the diameter of the outlets in size.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE LOG

Under the first crown, during the construction of the log house, horizontal waterproofing is laid. It does not allow the wood to come into contact with the plane of the foundation, preventing the penetration of moisture and preventing the appearance of mold and rotting of the log house.

The laying of the first crown begins with half-logs, on top of which full-fledged round logs are then laid. Laying the first crown is given special attention, all operations must be carried out with the utmost accuracy. It is placed in a horizontal plane on the foundation, maintaining right angles. Be sure to carry out antiseptic first crown.

Between the rows of logs, an interventional sealant is laid. So that the sealing material does not move during the assembly of the crowns, it is recommended to fix it with a furniture stapler.

For joining logs, pins (dowels) are used, placing them from each other at a distance of 1.5-2 m. Nagels used in wooden housing construction are round rods (shank) made of wood of more durable species (oak, birch) than a log house, their diameter is 25-30 mm. For them, installations are drilled simultaneously in three logs through hole. The length of the dowel must be 20% less than the hole prepared for it. Nagel's macce walls are placed in a checkerboard pattern.

After installing the entire log house, logs and beams, rafters are cut, then the draft floor and roof are mounted. The roof is made temporarily, covered under roofing felt or film. The log house is treated with an antiseptic, and the construction site is mothballed for a year, because. the log house should shrink within a year.

After shrinkage of the log house, the final installation of the truss system and subfloors is carried out. In the process of shrinking the log house at home, gaps appear after the wood dries out, so it is necessary to re-caulk the log house, then sand it and cover it with finishing impregnation (oil, varnish, paint, stain, etc.) of which today there is a huge amount. The truss system is re-tightened and the roof is mounted, and then all the necessary internal finishing work. Windows, doors, finished floors and ceilings, electrical and plumbing are inserted.

Articles on construction

Finishing materials from wood

Decoration Materials wood is the best for life. With the complex stages of planning and building your home behind you, you are on the cusp of perhaps the most creative stage of the job—furnishing your home. And if in the exterior wooden house, as a rule, does not need, then the internal, even the most minimal, is necessary.

Canadian felling allows you to build durable and energy-efficient log houses and saunas different diameter. Thanks to the internal spike in the bowl, the lock is self-locking, the walls are hermetic, the joints do not diverge in the corners. Such log cabins do not need repeated caulking! Carpenters from "ROYAL KEDR" have been building log cabins using Canadian technology since 2002.

The history of the appearance of the Canadian felling

In the middle of the 18th century, Russian settlers brought this technology to Canada. The local population (Indians and Eskimos) did not own this technique of building wooden houses.

In Russia, at the same time, architects preferred faster and less labor-intensive felling methods. Arriving in Canada, Russian craftsmen were forced to adapt Russian felling to local conditions, sacrifice speed and simplicity, giving preference to reliability and heat efficiency.

Now Canadian felling houses are popular not only in North America and Canada, but also in other countries, including Russia.

Advantages

It is profitable to build houses and baths with "ROYAL CEDAR"! Only we:

• We carefully select building materials. We have a production site and logging sites. We do not buy timber, we cut it ourselves in the Siberian taiga! Each tree is inspected by a foreman with twenty years of experience and checked with an ultrasonic flaw detector. For construction, blanks with good indicators of tapering, density and resin content are used. Our logs have no visible or hidden defects. Unsuitable specimens are rejected and used for the production of lumber.
• We develop detailed projects. The draft part is a sectional log house, a layout with an explication of the premises and a foundation plan. All the documents necessary for production are contained in the constructive section: cutting charts for all types of lumber, schemes for laying crowns and developing walls. All design documents are created automatically, which eliminates errors. Our log cabins are cut in strict accordance with the design developments, and each position in the estimate can be documented.
• We employ the best carpenters and finishers. We build turnkey houses and baths. We do not involve subcontractors in the work, we carry out all the design, construction and finishing works ourselves. The best Siberian carpenters and general-purpose finishers work in our staff, so we are confident in the result. All work is our guarantee!
• We offer prices from the manufacturer. The projects from "KINGR KEDR" contain documents that allow you to save: cutting charts wall material and specifications of all lumber. We are manufacturers and do not work with intermediaries. Our Customers pay only for the material and the work of our craftsmen. The remuneration of intermediaries and resellers is not included in the construction budget.

Canadian felling: technology features

• Canadian felling combines the characteristic features of Russian and Norwegian styles. Logs of large diameter are suitable for construction, which are carefully adjusted to each other when assembling the structure.
• Carpenters make a special "lock": a spike in a wedge-shaped bowl is cut out in the lower crown, and a bowl in the form of a trapezoid is cut out in the upper one. Under the weight of the logs during shrinkage, a tight wedging of the fastening occurs, due to which the complete tightness of the “lock” is achieved.
• Full coincidence of the bowls in shape and self-jamming of the "lock" minimize the risk of opening connections over time. Atmospheric moisture does not penetrate inside the corner. The insulation located in the grooves retains its natural properties for a long time.
• With Canadian technology, they make a double-sided seam logs at an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the notch is equal to twice the diameter of the log.
• For Canadian log cabins, logs processed with a scraper are used. This tool allows you to very carefully debark the workpiece, leaving the sapwood intact. Such logs look original, and log cabins from them serve for a long time.
• The grooves are made with an adze, the wood is pressed along the fibers. This allows you to clog pores and resin channels. This "preservation" increases the life of the wood.
• For Canadian felling, it is recommended to use logs with a diameter of 400 mm or more. We build from cedar, pine and larch with a diameter of up to 700 mm.

Features of Canadian log cabins

• Tightness. A log house with round bowls after shrinkage needs caulking or wall treatment with acrylic sealant using the “Warm Seam” technology. The occurrence of cracks is associated with a decrease in the linear dimensions of the log due to shrinkage. There is no such problem in the Canadian felling: the inclined edges of the lock and self-jamming under the weight of the rims and the roofing system maintain the tightness of the joints. No gaps appear in such a log house, the cut remains airtight.
• The walls look monolithic. There are no gaps between the crowns, this remains throughout the entire period of operation of the log house. The insulation remains inside the log, it is not visible and is reliably protected from environmental influences.
• Beautiful appearance. The notches on a log of large diameter look original. During the construction of elite log cabins, logs with expressive butts are used. The ends are made "under the wedge" or "in a run". French and straight cut ends are also available. Our carpenters own the author's method of drawing the butt parts. Widely used logs are large diameter, processed in the "wild" style or with partial debarking. The massive chopped farms that adorn the entrance group look original.

Diamond bowl or Diamond zate

• Building houses in a diamond bowl requires high skill from carpenters, because this is a very complex technology. The difference from the usual Canadian technique lies in the number of notches - they are performed not on one side of the crown, but on two:
• In the cuts, a large number of faces intersect, which looks like a diamond. This is where the name of this method comes from, with which you can emphasize the natural shape of the butts and the beauty of the wood texture.
• The pinnacle of craftsmanship tightly fitted (up to a millimeter) corner joints of crowns are considered.
• Benefits of the Diamond Chalice the same as in the usual Canadian: complete tightness and no gaps after shrinkage of the log house.
• The only downsidediamond cutting is a decrease in the width of the thermal groove. It is for this reason that it is advisable to choose this type of felling when a wooden house is being built from a log with a diameter of more than 460 mm. In large log cabins, the diamond cut looks especially elegant!

The composition of the house kit

• Wall logs;
• Lumber of natural moisture for:
• floors;
• truss system;
• crates;
• floor or ceiling;
• Mezhventsovy heater "Klimalan";
• Nagel from dry birch;
• Ruberoid;
• Protective compounds "Remmers";
• Shrinkage jacks;
• Hardware.

Construction time

The construction time depends on the complexity of the project, the diameter of the log and the workload of the production site.

Canadian felling

The main advantage of the Canadian cabin, no doubt, is the minimization of gaps - cracks, on the sides of the bowls, after the shrinkage of the logs. This advantage still does not exclude, 100%, the appearance of cracks at the joints of logs, as well as cracks on the log itself.

And therefore, the use of sealant, subsequently, and often at the construction stage, is INEVITABLE. And it turns out - talking about the absence of cracks becomes inappropriate. It is logical to ask: “Why then this argument (about the absence of gaps) is presented as an advantage? If the sealant in any case closes ANY cracks.

The second advantage is visual effect, since the planes of the fences, even if they are illiterate (not in Canadian) executed, add positive sensations from the log house. However, this is what is called a matter of taste, and there is no dispute about tastes.

For “hunting is worse than bondage,” a person wants - let him do it - We are “For”, with both hands!

The disadvantages can be safely attributed to a significant decrease in the thickness of the logs at the docking points, that is, in the corners. Especially with a double zatyos (both top and bottom). This, as a result, reduces the thermal insulation of the corner.

And also, since the sapwood is completely removed from the corner, the working life of this connection is reduced. It's just durability. Illiterate execution further exacerbates this problem.

Would you like to know our opinion about the Canadian felling?

The myth that CANADIAN CUTTING is Cool.

You can PR and Exploit any hyped topic, but there is a Fact that you can’t go around. You can only "close your eyes" to it. Or Not to see him, because he did not study the topic.

Where is the ancestral home of the Canadian felling?

It's very simple if you ask yourself:

Where from North American Indians could there be cracks? If they mainly led a nomadic lifestyle, then why do they need log cabins? The real history of Russia has deep roots. This is well known to those who do not like it. And the great-grandchildren of those Russians who walked with their feet on the lands of the once Russian Alaska are learning more and more.

If the well-forgotten old is passed off as "new" - this will be another brand and money out of thin air. For there are many lovers of repackaging a well-known product into a “new” one. That sells better. Since "it differs in that ..." And there is more freedom with arguments.

This method of joining a log structure justified only in certain cases. And not without flaws.

To start...

Name - "Canadian felling" comes from the artificial surge in popularity of this sophisticated technology in Canada. Its roots are in Russia, because it was brought from there, as one of the many varieties of Russian felling. This technology is found in different nooks and crannies of the world. And residential buildings made of logs using this technology acquire some special attractiveness due to the geometry of the joints. Especially if they are executed COMPETENTLY, because there is also a “different” execution ...

It is called "How could" and "how could." This is what "refinement" is. One can only laugh at this kind of "refinement", because the log becomes so thin at the joints that the cups sometimes break off.

So that the groove does not "climb" on the notch, it is necessary to sacrifice the groove by making it already. And such a narrowing of the groove width will naturally worsen the thermal insulation. You can compare simply: or will the groove width be 15-18 cm (up to 25 cm), or 7-8 cm, and sometimes 6 cm? These are places in a wall 6 cm thick! Well, where does it fit?

Disadvantage of Canadian Cutting in that too much thickness is cut off from the entire array of logs. This is undesirable for a log house. Yes, and in the bowls, the undercut is squeezed out. And it gets deep.

If you make an upper notch, and then another lower one, then from the entire log mass there remains an “isthmus” with a section of less than 30% of the log section. A small triangle from the circle remains.

Usually they put a thick tangle of insulation there and they think that everything turned out cool. But where are you going? The fact that the log is cut by 70-75%, 25-30% left and the edges are very poorly protected? And you have to try very hard to keep them under load. Especially transportation. Otherwise, simply from a push or pressure, it may not withstand on the road or during loading.

There was a case in our practice: a team cut down a house according to Canadian technology, with a double fence. It was a long time ago and was then a great curiosity.

The brigadier with burning eyes, told everyone about the Canadian felling. Even then, from his stories, we had questions about this technology.

When they looked WHAT they cut, our fears were confirmed. And then they chopped, one might say, "C grade".

The joints at the corners seemed so weak, as the logs at the corners were badly sawn through, that they seemed to be quite unreliable. And on one element, it was a removal under the balcony one and a half meters long, it was somehow restless to look at. Not only was the thickness of the bowl "none", it was also without lower offsets. There was a feeling that he was just hanging in the air and was about to fall.

I say to the foreman: "So he can fall off from you." And he answered me that he was not going to correct the mistakes of the designers, as it is drawn - we do it.

Well, as a result, when loading into the car, he fell off them. And on what the balcony is now kept is unknown. How they solved this problem is not known.

And it turns out that we need a competent approach, taking into account these nuances, which allows us to avoid such troubles.

If Canadian felling is what you want, we can execute it in this way,

What You will sleep peacefully.

To do this, you just need to deviate from some of the canons established for the Canadian felling, and everything is guaranteed to fall into place.