The method of crossing grapes affects other plants. Creation of a new variety of grapes in the garden. Delicate table "Marshmallow"

Advantages of hybrid forms

  • During the observation period, the hybrid form indicates a strong growth energy, good resistance to diseases (in the criteria of my agricultural technology, neither in the past year, nor until the moment of writing the material - in the 2nd decade of August 2009, it was not treated with pesticides).
  • Other advantages of the form include resistance to cracking of berries and the ability to long-term preserve the commercial properties of grapes that are not harvested from the bush during the period of physiological maturity of the berries (essentially for an amateur vineyard).
  • Frost resistance. Last year, a piece of bunch left on the vine waited for ... frosts!
  • The form showed another valuable feature in the color of the berries. In colored species, after full ripening, as a rule, the intensity of the color of the berries does not change in the best direction. The berries of the pink species turn red with blotched flowers, the reddish varieties may turn maroon or even purple. The same form retained its pink color until frost.

Personal experience of accidentally obtaining a new grape hybrid

Such properties appear in a variety that this year has ripened immediately or a couple of days earlier than the First-Called (these forms are grafted on one bush). With all this, despite such an early ripening period and very large berries (more than 4 cm in length), sugar accumulation and harmonious taste of berries in the form are excellent. The exceptional beauty of the bunch is one of the most striking changes that appeared during the observation period.

The effectiveness of visual perception in almost everything is determined by large elongated berries, the main color background of which is truly amber (without Greenery) and immediately by 3 variations in the coloring of berries, which makes a color composition that produces a very strong memory.

I am not a poorly informed person in this matter, but if the subjective-emotional component is included in the assessment of the bunch, and the size of the bunch is not taken into account (in fact, the 1st fruiting), then we can say that I have not seen a more attractive bunch. work with her was not impersonal, she received a temporary working title - Bomb.

The title was formed and conditioned from a natural-emotional exclamation that occurs in virtually every person (not necessarily a wine grower) who first saw her bunches. If, God willing, and over time it turns out that the configurations are of a mutational nature, the clone can be called V.N. Krainov. How to deal with all this? Relaxed, at least without euphoria. This can be the usual mentoring effect of the rootstock in the grafted composition under certain conditions of graft growth and less, or actually similar changes in the modification nature, caused by the reaction of grapes to environmental factors or cultivation technology, of course, I would like these changes to be inherited during vegetative reproduction, but the 1st desire is not enough, everything is in the hands of the Lord.

But there is hope. Including in connection with the young origin of the hybrid form. In his own works, Michurin noted that the formation and final formation of the parameters of hybrid forms occurs within a couple of years after hybridization. And the master of practice understood this better than anyone. Who knows, maybe in this case this option appeared. In addition, the external environment, galactic and light energy flows, nutritional conditions and dozens of other circumstances, including natural physical and chemical mutagens, during this period could affect the normal course of cytoembryological processes and metabolism of the observed form, which led to a change in traits on the genetic level. At the same time, over time, these changes can intensify, be cumulative, if the source of this impact is unchanged.

Potato pest - potato late blight

Time will show what these configurations actually represent and whether they will be transmitted or not during vegetative propagation. For now, we can only wait. I had a demonstrative conversation with V.N. Krainov. When breeding the hybrid form Ataman, he vaccinated in another vineyard. When discussing the configurations of color, shape of berries, and other features acquired on this inoculation, he said: “If I had not known that this was Ataman, I would have thought that this was a different variety.” Even then we noted that such changes in the properties of new hybrid forms can be used for greedy purposes by unscrupulous people. It turned out that they were looking into the water ...

There were "craftsmen"

I live in a vineyard far from the town, in relative isolation from "civilization" (without the Internet), and even here rumors reach me that some people (either unprepared, not understanding the laws of variability, or greedy viticulture businessmen) began to issue a similar variability of hybrid forms for new forms. They give them other names, and they are already launching a marketing flywheel for the implementation of these forms. In other words, a large-scale swindle action is being prepared.

Simple decency does not allow to do so. Even if mutations (changes in the hereditary base - genotype - of a plant organism, transmitted to offspring during vegetative reproduction) lie in the cause of the seemingly modified traits, then this is a clone, a clone of a variety that has a creator, with all the ensuing consequences, at least moral. Assigning a different name to the form without the knowledge of the creator, in my opinion, is very little, unethical, and maybe tantamount to theft. Even if you got lucky, and due to certain events, by the will of the option, you became the owner of a fascinating clone, the maximum that you can count on is co-authorship. In addition, when these events are concealed, the viticultural community is simply pricked.

If the manifested variability in the hybrid form has the usual modification character (it is not transmitted during vegetative reproduction), then such acts in general are nothing more than fraud. The grower is shown one thing, but they essentially sell him something else, planting material variety that he may already have. In fact, everything in selection is much more difficult than I mentioned here, and the event under discussion, no doubt, specifically refers to one of the methods of selection - clonal selection, in which the most important is the answer to the question - whether the detected change is mutational (hereditary) or modification disposition (incommunicable during reproduction). Not everything is so simple here, in some cases even the modification nature of the configurations can persist for a couple of years and, what is most unusual, several vegetative generations. This paradox even exists scientific definition- long modification. In order to avoid punctures and not look later as boys for beating, the breeders have worked out the corresponding development.

Page 4 of 5

Hybridization is the crossing of two different varieties belonging to the same species (intraspecific), or plants of two various kinds(interspecies). Hybridization is one of the most reliable methods for creating new grape varieties, especially in combination with additional cultivation of the resulting young hybrids.
Experiments with the vine showed that seedlings obtained as a result of forced self-pollination, in most cases, even with good conditions growing, much weaker than seedlings obtained from pollination with foreign pollen.

Hybridization technique

When carrying out hybridization, it is necessary to pay great attention to the timely castration (6-7 days before flowering) of species or varieties of grapes with bisexual flowers, as well as to their pollination.

Rice. 157. Parchment bags.

Varieties with functional female flowers are not castrated; they are pre-isolated in parchment bags. 1 When carrying out hybridization, parchment paper bags are needed to isolate the inflorescences (Fig. 157) and metal tweezers to remove stamens (castration).
When hybridizing, well-developed inflorescences are selected and, first of all, their tops are removed, since they are late with flowering. On one inflorescence, which can have hundreds of buds, 30-50 pieces are castrated, correctly distributed, and all the rest are removed. Castration is done carefully, while taking the inflorescence with the left hand, with the right hand, with the tip of the tweezers, they grab the upper edge of the corolla obliquely along with the tops of the stamens inside, and, bending, tear them off (Fig. 158).
If stamens or petals remain, they are also removed with tweezers so that only the pistil remains with the remnants of the stamen filaments. The remaining uncastrated flowers are removed with tweezers.

Rice, 158. Castration of a grape flower.

The castrated inflorescence is covered with a paper bag. After 4-5 days, the bag is removed and it is checked whether the stigmas are ready to receive pollen, which is recognized by the release of droplets on them, as well as by the flowering of buds of uncastrated inflorescences. Most best time for pollination from 6 to 11 o'clock in the afternoon.

Raising seedlings

Young seedlings, especially hybrids with a loose heredity, are easily amenable to change under the influence of various environmental conditions, because they develop, form their qualities and their organism from elements of the same environment. Therefore, by artificially changing environmental conditions, it is possible to direct the education of seedlings and develop in them the qualities necessary for pasture.
To educate seedlings based on a deep knowledge of plant biology, it is necessary to create various conditions at different stages of their development.

Vegetative hybridization

Vegetative hybrids are organisms that combine the hereditary properties of two different species or varieties as a result of their grafting. According to T. D. Lysenko, vegetative hybrids basically do not differ from hybrids obtained sexually. Any trait can be passed from one plant to another through grafting, just as it can be transmitted sexually. The behavior of vegetative hybrids in subsequent generations is similar to the behavior of sexual hybrids.
The doctrine of vegetative hybridization as a method of practical selection was created by IV Michurin. He developed the mentor method based on mutual influence between rootstock and scion.
I. V. Michurin proved that the variety of perennial fruit plant, which is an already established organism, cannot be changed under the influence of vaccination. Therefore, when grafting old grape varieties on old varieties of phylloxera-resistant rootstocks or on frost-resistant Amur grapes, no change in the hereditary qualities of either rootstock or scion is observed.
The change in hereditary qualities as a result of vaccination is manifested only in young hybrid organisms with a shaken heredity. By grafting cuttings of hybrid seedlings onto old plants with established heredity, it is possible to purposefully change the qualities of seedlings.
Old plants with already established heredity (mentor) can also be taken as grafts. In this case, grafting cuttings of a given variety or species onto seedlings in different periods their development and maintaining the influence of the mentor for a certain time, the breeder educates the seedling in the right direction. It enhances and develops in him good qualities, delaying or eliminating the tendency to manifest undesirable qualities.
Developing Michurin's doctrine of vegetative hybrids, T. D.; Lysenko proved that the changes in hereditary qualities occurring in this case are explained by the metabolism between the stock and the scion, the result of the mutual assimilation of substances produced by each component.
Using the mentor's method, I. V. Michurin obtained a number of varieties of fruit crops. Vegetative hybridization in viticulture in the USSR began to be carried out on a large scale only recently.

Seedling selection

The selection of seedlings is carried out in the first year of their cultivation. In the first year, diseased, albino and frail plants are destroyed. Selection can be carried out on the basis of early ripening of shoots, which, according to I. V. Michurin, is a sign of early ripening of grapes. There are, however, exceptions, such as the Fergana black variety, whose clusters ripen very early, while the shoots become woody late.
To obtain frost-resistant varieties with a short growing season, it is necessary to select seedlings that plant growth early. In the spring, the most frost-resistant seedlings are selected, as well as seedlings with later bud break. During flowering, all seedlings with defective flowers are selected and destroyed.
During the first fruiting, the clusters and berries of seedlings are usually underdeveloped, smaller. Their normal formation comes gradually. Subsequently, the quality of the grapes can be significantly improved by the use of appropriate agricultural practices, as well as by vegetative propagation of the best seedlings.

Some growers sleep and see how to breed a new variety, and what to cross to get a hybrid form that strikes the imagination in size, color and taste ... I want to disappoint those who want to try on Michurin's laurels. Selection is a long process.

If time doesn't scare you, be patient! You will need the following gentlemen's kit:

  • at least five years to breed one variety;
  • decent piece of land;
  • the ability to endure failure;
  • receive positive emotions from the lesson.

It is useful to familiarize yourself with the professional literature. This may be a textbook on viticulture by the authorship of Negrul, and "Genetics and selection of the vine" by Ayvazyan P.K. and Dokuchaeva E.N.

You also need to turn your vineyard into an impregnable fortress, otherwise the fruits of your combinations may go to banal thieves who will sell bunches on the market, and you will lose all the results of your work. Such cases are not just unsettling, they leave a bitter aftertaste for a long time.

And still it is necessary to put only feasible tasks. Breeding frost-resistant grapes with good performance whole scientific institutes are engaged, and the results are still modest.

An amateur breeder cannot handle such tasks. The probability of getting a variety with frost resistance -30...-32°C from offspring with frost resistance -23 ... -25 ° С is the same as hitting the jackpot in the lottery. The same can be said about high resistance to diseases.

Despite these limitations, the field of activity of enthusiasts is very extensive. You can improve the color of the bunches, the shape of the berries, the size, the taste, the structure, the ripening time, the vigor of the growth, the yield, the sex of the flower, the seedlessness… So that's enough work.

Never cross pairs at random. Use the “duet” rule: if you plan to breed a large-berry variety with a given color of bunches, then choose both parental forms with a given color. Use this rule when setting a selection problem. The probability of getting a bisexual variety is different: when crossing bisexual varieties, the probability is 3 to 1. That is, three seedlings will be bisexual, and one will be unisexual. Previously, all same-sex forms were rejected. But if we do this now, then we would be left without Talisman, Flora, Flamingo, Victoria, Sofia, Gourmets ... So do not rush to reject hybrid forms, maybe they will have other advantages. In industrial selection, out of a hundred seedlings, only one or two with the desired properties were selected, the rest were rejected. In amateur breeding, 20-30 seedlings are considered sufficient.

And the last. It has been noted that the earlier the maturation period of the mother form, the worse the germination of hybrid seeds. The lowest germination in super-early varieties is only 1-1.5%. And in maternal forms with early term maturation - 10-25%. The best germination is in seeds from late mother bushes.

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When growing grapes near the walls and on the arbors, the bushes have to be left uncovered for the winter, since it is not possible to bend them to the ground. It follows from this that for wall culture grapes need frost-resistant varieties. But the existing high-quality European grape varieties, as already mentioned, are not frost-resistant enough, and frost-resistant isabelles do not produce high-quality fruits, hence the task is to work on breeding new varieties - high-quality and at the same time frost-resistant, as well as on increasing the frost resistance of existing valuable varieties.

Selection of varieties for hybridization

New varieties are created by hybridization followed by hybridization and selection.

To obtain high-quality frost-resistant hybrids, it is necessary to cross various European and Central Asian grape varieties with good palatability berries, with varieties of frost-resistant species.

Of the European varieties, for example, the following can be recommended for hybridization: intensively accumulating sugar White Muscat, Pink Muscat and Black Kishmish, early varieties Saba pearls, Madeleine Angevin and Chaush, whose wood matures well; from Central Asian - large-fruited Taifi, Nimrang, Katta Kurgan, etc. Of the frost-resistant forms, the most suitable for hybridization are varieties of the species Vitis Labruska - Isabella, Lydia and others, as well as Amur grapes; in areas infected with phylloxera, varieties and hybrids of Riparia and Rupestris species can also be recommended.

The success of the business depends primarily on the ability to choose parent pairs on the basis of personal observations of the behavior of certain varieties in the area where breeding work is being carried out. It is important not only to skillfully select varieties for crossing, but also to select the most suitable bushes of parental varieties for this purpose. For example, if you notice that a bush is better than other bushes of this variety endures winter or has better maturation of wood and is less damaged by frost, then just such a bush should be taken for crossing.

It is desirable to cross in the area for which new varieties are being developed, so that hybrid seeds are formed on bushes growing in the conditions of this area. Hybrid seeds should be imported from other places only if there are no bushes necessary for crossing varieties in the place. In this case, you can contact any research institution for viticulture with a request to send hybrid seeds for breeding high-quality frost-resistant grape varieties.

How is crossbreeding done

The crossing technique is as follows. On the bushes selected for hybridization, large inflorescences are selected, located on strong, well-growing shoots. The upper part of the bunch is cut to half along the ridge. The rest of the flowers are castrated. With thin tweezers, in one or two steps, remove the cap along with anthers from each bud (Fig. 42). On each inflorescence, 50-100 buds are castrated, the rest are cut with scissors with sharp tips. It is necessary to castrate on the day when the first blooming flowers appear on the bush.

After castration, an insulator is put on the inflorescence to protect it from pollen from neighboring flowering bushes. The insulator is prepared from parchment paper, which is cut into pieces 20 centimeters wide and 25 centimeters long. Then the cut leaves are glued into a tube. To do this, take a half-liter bottle, wrap it with a leaf and glue its edges. The end of the resulting parchment tube (from the side of the neck of the bottle) is dipped into water for 3-4 centimeters, then it is tied with a nylon thread along the edge of the wetted place into one knot, the wetted border is folded back, removed from the bottle and the other end is tied with a thread, after inserting it into this edge a small ball of cotton.

The insulator prepared in this way (Fig. 43) is put on the inflorescence, the pedicel is wrapped with a piece of cotton wool and the thread is tightened. In the morning of the next day, the upper end of the insulator is untied and the stigmas of castrated flowers are examined. If droplets of liquid appear on them, pollination must be carried out; if no droplets appear, the insulators are tied and the inspection is continued every morning until droplets appear on the stigmas of the flowers. This moment cannot be missed, since pollination before the appearance of droplets or after they dry does not give results - crossing does not work.

If the paternal bush blooms earlier than the mother bush, pollen is collected in advance for pollination. To do this, anthers (along with pollen) are shaken from flowering inflorescences into a paper bag, dried in the shade and kept in a dry place until pollination is needed. During pollination, anthers with pollen are collected with a brush and shaken over the stigmas, on which droplets have appeared.

Crossing is best done if the paternal and maternal bushes bloom at the same time. Then, several branches are cut from the well-blooming inflorescences of the paternal bush, brought to the mother bush and inserted one by one into the untied insulators, touching the anthers to the stigmas, then removed. This method of pollination gives the best results.

Sowing seeds and obtaining seedlings

After two or three weeks, the paper insulators are removed and gauze bags are put on the inflorescences with young ovaries of berries. When the seeds are fully ripened, the clusters are cut off and hybrid seeds are extracted from the berries.

For about two months before sowing, the seeds are stratified.

They are soaked in water, the floating ones are thrown away, and the drowned ones are soaked for two days. Then the water is drained, and the seeds are mixed with soil of moderate moisture. For this purpose, one should take good black soil mixed in half with sand.

Seeds mixed with earth are poured into small bags, which are easy to make from pieces of an old canvas hose. A metal label is placed in each bag, which differs from the others in its shape. Labels can be round, triangular, square, with a different number of holes, etc. The journal records which crossover combination corresponds to one or another label shape.

Canvas bags with seeds are stored until spring in a box with soil of moderate moisture. At the bottom of a box measuring 40X50 centimeters and 25 centimeters high, a layer of earth of 10-12 centimeters is poured, bags are placed in one row and covered with the same layer of earth. The box is stored in the basement or in another room with a temperature not higher than 10-12 degrees Celsius and not lower than zero. They cover the box with a sheet of iron so that the earth does not dry out and so that the mice do not get to the seeds.

Grape seeds are sown at the time when the apple tree blooms. Two weeks before sowing, the box in which the seeds are stored is placed for a day under a greenhouse frame if there is sun, or in a very warm room if the weather is cloudy. At night, the box is taken out into the yard so that the seeds can cool as much as possible. With such sharp fluctuations in temperature, seed germination is accelerated. Usually on the seventh or eighth day they crack, and on the tenth day a spine appears. Therefore, starting from the fifth or sixth day, the condition of the seeds is monitored: a bag is taken out of the box, several seeds are taken from it, the adhering earth is washed with water and carefully examined. If there are no cracks, stratification is continued.

When cracks appear on most of the seeds, they are washed off the ground (preferably on a strainer under running water) and sown in pre-prepared beds. The distance between rows is 40 centimeters, between seeds - 7-8, thus running meter 12-15 seeds are sown. Seal depth - 3 centimeters.

Irrigate immediately after sowing. Watering should be moderate. Excessive watering is dangerous for grape seeds, as they can all rot, and waterlogging of the soil completely stops germination. The earth must be of normal humidity and loose so that the air has access to the seeds.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear in 8-10 days. If a cold snap sets in, they linger somewhat.

In the first year, care for seedlings is to provide them with good soil and air nutrition.

After the appearance of 5-6 leaves, the first dressing is done. For one bucket of water, take 100 grams of potassium nitrate, 100 grams of superphosphate and add a pinch of borax or boric acid. Seedlings are watered with the resulting solution at the rate of half a liter per linear meter of a row. It is necessary to ensure that the fertilizer solution does not fall on the leaves, as this results in burns. After fertilizing, watering is done so that the fertilizer penetrates deeper.

So that in the future the soil does not dry out and is moderately moist, it must be loosened frequently, preventing the formation of a crust from watering and rain. This is very important, as a grape plant develops well only if air freely penetrates to the roots.

In the middle of summer, when the roots have already grown sufficiently, granular superphosphate is introduced into the aisles and loosening is done to a depth of 15-16 centimeters. When the first tendril appeared on the seedlings, they are fed with the same fertilizer solution as for the first time, but this time they take a liter of solution per linear meter.

So that the seedlings do not lie on the ground, arrange a support. You can make a temporary trellis: drive in stakes every three to four meters and pull two rows of twine between them.

Seedlings are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, which is prepared in the same way as for old bushes, and then diluted twice with water. When spraying seedlings, it is especially important that Bordeaux mixture has a neutral reaction (when wetted, blue and red litmus paper should retain its color). Excess blue vitriol(acid) or lime (alkali) causes very severe leaf burns in seedlings, especially the tops, which delays their development.

After the first frost, the seedlings are dug up. For this work, you need to choose a warm, frost-free day. Even with a frost of half a degree, the roots just taken out of the ground die very quickly.

The dug out seedlings are tied into bunches according to combinations of crosses, labels are attached to them, on which the names of parental forms and the number of plants are noted. In addition, make an appropriate list in the journal.

For the winter, seedlings are dug in with sand in the basement and make sure that they do not dry out. If they do dry out, they should be moistened, but very carefully to prevent excess water.

In the spring, in mid-April, the seedlings are taken out of the basement and planted on permanent place.

Raising hybrid seedlings

The upbringing of hybrid seedlings is a very important stage in breeding work. Everything must be done to ensure that the hybrid seedlings, before entering into fruiting, are powerful plants, with a strong root system and a sufficiently developed aerial part of the bush. Large reserves must be accumulated in the roots and in the wood of the trunk nutrients. In other words, before entering into fruiting, it is necessary to nurture such plants that would be able to produce large clusters, with large berries, accumulate a large amount of sugar in them, give tasty and beautiful fruits. Such results cannot be achieved from hybrids, if they are stunted plants grown in dense planting, on poor support, with insufficient soil nutrition and lack of soil moisture.

The method of formation of seedlings is also of great importance. I. V. Michurin wrote: “When growing trees from seedlings, in no case should they be given artificial forms of cordons, palmettes, etc., because with such violence of the free growth of seed trees, they remain barren for a long time .. This proves once again that many methods of so-called form culture often bring rather significant damage to the normal development of plants. best form for trees of new varieties grown from seeds, one must consider the one in which the growth of each tree of a new variety tends to take shape: for apple trees - low stem and bush, for pears - high pyramidal, for cherries and plums - bush, depending on the genus and type of plant.

Seedlings of grapes have a strong growth and, under favorable conditions, very quickly turn into powerful vine-like plants. The practice of many breeders-vine growers has established that fruiting occurs in the third year, if the seedlings are given the opportunity to form a tall trunk in the first two years. On the contrary, with a short pruning, the seedlings are frail and come into fruition much later.

To ensure the proper upbringing of hybrid seedlings, it is necessary to apply agricultural technology, the main elements of which are:

1) deep tillage and increase of its fertility before planting;

2) provision of water supply (complete elimination of the possibility of drought, that is, lack of moisture);

3) providing a sufficient feeding area, in which the leaves of hybrid seedlings would be well and evenly illuminated by the sun;

4) creation of conditions for the development of hybrids into vine-like plants;

5) pruning according to the principle of selection and leaving the strongest, well-developed annual vines on the bush;

6) timely top dressing and watering of plants.

Of course, this does not exhaust the agricultural technology of raising hybrid seedlings, only its main provisions are indicated here. Everyday observations of the development of the plant suggest in each case necessary measures improvement of agricultural technology for specific conditions in which selection work is carried out.

For planting hybrid seedlings, you need to choose open places, and not protected areas with a warmer microclimate. It is important that the hybrid nursery is located in the climatic conditions typical for the area. The soil is prepared in the same way as for the wall culture of grapes, but at the same time, fresh manure must be introduced. The site must be provided with water for irrigation.

Disembarkation to a permanent place

Seedlings are planted in a permanent place near the walls and arbors in the spring. The distance in the row between the bushes is 1.25 meters (in the future, the plant density will decrease as a result of the culling of non-frost-resistant seedlings). In an open area, the direction of the row should be from north to south. If seedlings are planted not in one, but in several rows, the distance between the rows should be 1.5 meters. Those who, in order to increase the number of plants, thicken the planting of seedlings, act incorrectly. Cushioned landing is the first violation of the conditions good food plants and growing powerful bushes.

After the breakdown is made on the planting grooves and the landing sites are marked, pits are dug 60 centimeters deep and 200 grams of granulated superphosphate are crushed along the bottom. The seedlings taken out of the basement are inspected, the cuts on the roots are updated. If there are several annual shoots, only one is left, for its entire length, the rest are cut off. After that, they start landing.

It is necessary to plant so that the root collar (the place where the roots pass into the shoot) is at a depth of 50 centimeters. If the shoot is longer than 50 centimeters, then after planting and watering, the hole is completely filled up, and the part of the shoot that protrudes above the ground is tied to a peg. If the length of the shoot is less than 50 centimeters, after planting and watering, the hole is not completely buried, but only for the length of the shoot, leaving the two upper buds unburied. In the fall, when a new shoot grows and stiffens, the hole is completely buried.

In the very first year after planting in a permanent place, many seedlings grow very strongly and can give an increase in annual shoots of 2-3 meters. If hybrid seedlings are not planted near walls and arbors, a trellis must be installed in the first year. Its height should be 2-2.5 meters in order to place shoots on it and later form high bush trunks from them. During the first summer, you need to give two or three top dressings, tie up green shoots, and take measures to combat mildew. In the southern regions, seedlings should not be closed for the winter, and in the northern and, especially, in the northeastern regions, annual vines should be covered during the first winter, but from the second winter (after planting in a permanent place), they do not need to be closed anywhere.

Hybrid seedlings are pruned in the same way as wall and gazebo bushes, but at the beginning, so as not to overload seed plants, you need to leave one at a time and only for very strong ones - two trunks each.

In the second and third years, seedlings begin to bear fruit, and at the same time a new crucial period in breeding work begins - the selection period.

Selection

Selection for frost resistance is made by nature itself in frosty winters. The selection for fruit quality and yield is made by the breeder. First, all hybrid seedlings with male flowers are discarded. Further, within three to four years, carefully monitoring the yield, quality of berries and frost resistance of the remaining bushes, the best hybrids for propagation are selected.

Bushes grown from cuttings taken from a seed grape plant often differ from it in a number of ways. Therefore, bushes obtained from cuttings of any selected hybrid seedling, you need to carefully check again for frost resistance, berry quality and yield. If the test showed that the traits for which the hybrid was selected remain the same in its offspring grown from cuttings, or even intensified, then we can assume that a new one has been obtained. good grade. It remains to give it a name and proceed to its mass reproduction.

It is possible to increase the frost resistance of existing varieties by clonal breeding.

Under the influence of conditions, certain properties of the vine can change, and these changes can often be inherited during vegetative propagation. It also happens that not the entire bush changes, but only its individual shoots. Quite often, these changes can be beneficial for a person. By selecting for reproduction bushes or shoots with traits that have changed in a direction useful to humans, improved varieties can be obtained. This is clone selection.

In viticulture, there are many varieties with valuable economic properties, which are obtained as a result of the selection of changed shoots and bushes. If the modified shoots are propagated by cuttings, so-called clones are obtained, which are often given new names and considered new varieties. Thus, through folk selection, the world-famous grape varieties Chassela rosea, Chassela muscat, Pinot white, Pinot gray, Chaush pink and others were created.

Under certain climatic and agrotechnical conditions, vines may change in the direction of increasing their frost resistance. By propagating these vines, growing their vegetative progeny under frost-hardy conditions, and applying repeated selection, a hardy clone of a good variety can be obtained.

Selection is made after a harsh winter with strong, prolonged frosts. In these cases, in the spring, the bushes are not pruned until the buds swell. When the buds begin to swell, inspect the vines. At this time, it is easy to distinguish shoots that have endured frost well from damaged ones. On shoots damaged by frost, the buds do not swell and easily fall off when pressed with a finger. A black spot is found in place of the fallen kidney. However, the presence of swollen buds is not yet sufficiently convincing evidence that the shoot endured frosts well. You need to look at the bark. To do this, make a small cut so as to only slightly touch the living tissue of the bark. If at the same time a bark of a bright emerald color is found, then the shoot is not damaged. If her color is dark green with a transition to brown, then this shows that the shoot is damaged by frost.

After that, those bushes are selected on which frosts did not damage the shoots at all or damaged only an insignificant part of them. On such bushes, the best vines are selected, cuttings are cut from them and planted in a school for rooting. The strongest, well-rooted seedlings are selected from the school and planted in a permanent place.

If selection is carried out in this way after each severe winter, it is possible to increase the frost resistance of bushes in each subsequent vegetative offspring. But in practice this is never done. Cuttings of European varieties are usually harvested in the fall, fearing that the vines will be damaged by frost and in the spring they will not be used for planting. Since the cuttings harvested since autumn are stored in the basement or trenches, their selection for frost resistance is completely excluded. This is inevitable in the conditions of industrial viticulture of collective farms and state farms, where bushes of European varieties take shelter for the winter. But in conditions of near-wall and pavilion culture, where the bushes remain uncovered for the winter, amateur growers can select for frost resistance. Unfortunately, they don't do that either.

To select vines for frost resistance, you can also use early autumn and late spring frosts. It is observed that after early autumn frosts, on most of the shoots the leaves die, but on some they remain completely intact. Such shoots, with intact leaves, should be noted and observed next spring, especially if the winter was frosty. If they overwintered well, it is advisable to take them for breeding.

Bedbug selection

Late spring frosts damage young green shoots, which in most cases die completely or have their tops frozen. However, a small part of the shoots (sometimes 2-3 per bush) still remains intact. Such shoots should also be noted and cuttings should be prepared from them.

It is believed that the buds and annual shoots of European grape varieties begin to be damaged at temperatures below -22 °, lasting more than 6 hours, and at lower temperatures, perennial wood is also damaged.

Our long-term observations of vine bushes have shown that the vines of European varieties, indeed, begin to be damaged at frosts of about -22 °, but the degree of damage to individual bushes and vines is different. While some have heavy frost damage, others remain undamaged or take little damage. In Odessa, in some years, frosts reach -35°. After such harsh winters, we observed many wall and pavilion bushes of European grape varieties, which were almost not damaged by frost. This ability to withstand low temperatures can be fixed and strengthened in vegetative progeny by repeated directed selection.

It must be said that such clonal selection can be carried out throughout the territory of Ukraine. Every opportunity should be taken everywhere to select vines for frost resistance.

The wide participation of amateur vine growers in this work can play a very important role in the creation of frost-resistant high-quality grape varieties.


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