How to fill sliding gates. Do-it-yourself sliding gates: features of installation, installation and proper operation. Do-it-yourself sliding gates: creating an embedded part

For owners of country houses, automatic sliding gates are today an indispensable element in the construction or repair of their cozy home.

Everyone who installed them is simply amazed how they lived before without such a convenient and effective solution.

Any sliding gate cannot be compared with this device. And in terms of safety, they are many times inferior to him.

We will not consider the process of self-manufacturing gates, especially since their prefabricated design options can be easily found and ordered from professional manufacturers.

Let's focus on the moments of installation of individual elements, connection and configuration of the automation system.

Mortgage for sliding gates

The installation of sliding or sliding gates is characterized by the need to prepare the opening accordingly. What is included in this work?

Firstly, it is the preparation of the foundation or mortgage. It's like building a foundation for a house. This mortgage is the main anchor of the entire structure.

The mortgage is a capitally concreted 16th channel. The height of the channel is the zero of the future entry.

If the entrance is subsequently tiled, lay the channel above the existing zero mark by the height of the tile. In order for the concrete to completely fall under the channel during pouring, the formwork must be made level with it.

The depth of such a foundation depends on the depth of freezing in your area. For example, in Moscow and the Moscow region, experts deepen by 1.5 m, plus 20 cm on a sand cushion.

Mistake #1

If you do not take this into account, then later the foundation may bulge with a violation of the free movement of the gate or even their wedge.

Capital polymerization of concrete occurs within 28 days. For high-quality work, which is called for centuries, it is desirable to withstand these deadlines, and install the gate already on a concrete base, which has fully gained its strength.

However, few people have the patience for such periods, but it is necessary to endure at least a week.

Before pouring concrete, clearly expose and secure the channel with additional pieces of reinforcement so that it does not go to the side.

At the same time, the mortgage itself does not have to be scalded with a whole web of metal.

This will not add special strength and it will not save in any way with insufficient depth and tangential heaving. And such a force can reach several tons per 1 m2.

She easily lifts and breaks the walls of garages and houses, to say nothing of some gates.

Therefore, vertical fittings 12-16mm2 are quite enough.

Calculate the length of the pit for the foundation by the formula: the length of the entire opening divided in half.

For example, you have a gate width of 4m. So you need to prepare a pit about 2m long. Its width should be 40-50cm.

A standard pit for such gates takes about 2m3 of concrete.

Gates themselves never come ready-made. The sash will have to be assembled on site.

On the factory product, all technological holes have already been prepared, so following the instructions diagram, you should not have any problems with installation.

When assembling, the most important thing is to clearly control the geometry.

The central part can be filled with various materials:

• corrugated board

Fastened with screws or rivets.

So that the sheets do not rattle at the joints when the gate moves, all cracks and spaces can be filled with silicone sealant. Or just put a gasket on.

• fence

• blind filling, infill type

To strengthen the entire structure, a cable guy is often used. It can easily adjust the required correspondence along the diagonals.

Mistake #3

If you are welding the profile as a jib, be careful! With a lack of experience, welds can lead the metal and the bottom guide.

And the gates will begin to tap in these places, like a train on rails.

Support rollers - which is better and how to install

After you have assembled the frame, proceed to fix the rollers on which the sash rolls.

Mistake #4

Never use plastic rollers.

Here you can consider options only with steel. Do not be fooled by manufacturers' advertisements that polymer rollers are smoother and quieter.

If there is vibration when moving along the guide, it will still be transmitted. And don't forget about our winter operating conditions.

At extremely low temperatures, plastic rollers become less durable and will begin to break upon impact.

In terms of the quality of the videos, Rolltek has very good reviews.

It is imperative that the bearings are low temperature lubricated.

They should be reinforced - 301st and not 201st, or 303rd, not 203rd.

The larger size is designed for more weight, which means they are more reliable and able to withstand the worst working conditions, even if the guide geometry is violated.

When mounting the rollers, it is necessary to first mark the places of their installation on the channel. Put them on a plane and roll the guide.

An obligatory decision when mounting rollers is the use of adjusting bolts.

Mistake #5

Fasteners should be attached to the channel through them, and not through the roller platform itself.

Since with any deviation of the concrete base by only 0.5 cm, the gate will go away by 4-10 cm.

With bolts, during operation, you can easily make adjustments in any plane using a conventional wrench.

After you rolled the collar onto the roller bearings, they need to be leveled.

Mistake #6

Never lubricate the rollers or the beam they run on.

As a result of such self-activity, sand and dust get clogged there, gradually turning into an abrasive, and systematically grinding off the surfaces of these two important elements.

To install the upper and lower traps, plus the upper bracket from lateral swing, you will need additional supports (incoming pole, flashing). Usually it is a pipe 60*40mm or 60*30mm.

Weld them through the mortgages to the concrete posts of the fence.

And already to them, mount these very traps and brackets.

Catchers must be made of steel with a thickness of at least 3-4 mm.

So that there is no blow at the very end, and the collar closes completely silently, you can put an elastic band as a gasket if you do not have factory ones.

Although many smart drives (Nice, Hormann), they themselves are able to stop the sash in a given place, knowing its length.

Mistake #7

Remember that the lower catcher is placed last when the gate is level, sheathed and in its working position.

This trap is mounted in such a way that when the leaf enters it, the gate rises a couple of millimeters in order to unload the support rollers.

In this case, they will last much longer.

Mistake #8

Never fasten the incoming pole directly to the column, through anchors without mortgages.

After a couple of years, from wind and shock loads, all this will loosen and the fasteners will tear out. Initially, the embeds must be welded to the steel central column.

If you forgot about it, then make fasteners at least on a chemical anchor.

Mounting and adjustment of the toothed rack

On high-quality factory products, its installation can be done without welding at all. There is a special C-profile included.

Fasten it according to the level through the screws at the bottom of the gate, and insert the bosses into the grooves.

Move them each to its place and tighten the bolts.

If you do not have such technological fasteners and you have to do everything the old fashioned way in welding, then follow the following instructions.

First of all, put the drive itself on the foundation channel and look at the height where the asterisk will be located. You may even have to increase the height of the platform to make everything fit perfectly.

Only after that fix the drive on the bolts, but don't overtighten.

Gear racks are 1m long. Each of them has an oval hole.

These same bosses are inserted into it - with the wide side to the rail, narrow to the gate.

Initially expose them in the middle and tighten. Next, unlock the drive, open the gate as much as possible and try on the rail so that a trailer fits between its end and the gear.

In this position, weld the first boss.

You move the gate, almost reaching the last boss, and grab it. At the same time, make sure that the first and last are on the same level.

Lastly, weld the middle boss. All this time the rack lies on the gear.

To fine-tune the teeth between the two upper ones, put one more free rail or a piece of it from below, then all the teeth will match perfectly and there will be no clicks or knocks when the gate moves.

The process is repeated with all segments of the rail. After they grabbed everything and rolled the gate back and forth, you can finally scald the whole thing.

Mistake #10

It is not recommended to do this strictly in the order of the bosses.

First, brew the first one, then the one in the middle of the entire collar, then the last one. And so on. In this case, there is less chance that the metal will lead.

At the same time, some advise welding the rail to the lower profile of the gate, and not to the guide that runs along the rollers. Otherwise, with a lack of experience, everything will arch in you, and the guide will take the form of a banana.

In addition, the door profile lives much longer than the bottom beam, and when it is replaced, you do not need to redo the bottom rail fasteners. Most often, the beam “dies” at the end of winter or the beginning of spring.

The main enemy of sliding gates is snow. Therefore, always remove it from the rollback side. At a temperature of + -1C, the snow freezes and crushes the beam from the inside.

She, in turn, begins to break rollers. The best remedy for snow is to make a pencil case, inside of which a collar will go. Well, or splurge on a warm floor for the street.

Many people talk about the correct clearance between the gear and the rack. How is it regulated and exhibited? Very simple.

You open the gate and loosen the first bolt on the boss so that it independently assumes its position. After that, lubricate the thread and tighten it.

Without lubrication, the thread rusts after 5 years and the bolt breaks off in this very place.

Next, move the collar to the end of the first section of the rail, loosen and tighten the third bolt. After that, the one in the middle.

You do the same with the second and other rails, gradually moving the gate. And at the very end, you thoroughly tighten the motor fasteners, which before that were not too tight.

As a result, you will get the same clearance recommended by manufacturers between the rack and the gear itself. The most important thing is that the rack does not put pressure on the gear.
If at the same time there is no visible gap, but it simply lies freely on the gear, this is also normal.

This completes the mechanical part, proceed to the installation and configuration of the electric drive.

Sliding gate drive connection

Always choose a drive with a power reserve, taking into account winter operation.

To connect the gate automation operator, you will need the following materials:

• the electric drive itself

• remote control

• 3-core power cable brand VVG

Select the section according to the distance. If you have a cable length of up to 20m, then VVG 3 * 1.5mm2 is enough. If more than 20m, then VVG 3 * 2.5mm2

• receiving and transmitting infrared sensors or safety photocells

A good drive must initially be equipped with protection against accidental entry of a person or machine into the gate target. Otherwise, the object will simply crush or injure from such an effort.

However, for some reason, such defenses only work well on impact. Roughly speaking, they need to be almost kicked in order for the collar to stop.

Therefore, for additional security, photocells are required, which, if a foreign object enters their zone, will not allow the gate to close.

• signal lamp + coaxial wire for antenna on it

The lamp will notify road users that the gate is opening and the car can leave.

• cable for connecting photocells - MKSH 4 * 0.5mm2 and MKSH 2 * 0.5mm2

• key button + cable for it MKSH 2 * 0.5mm2

First of all, to lay a 220V power cable from the switchboard in the house to the drive installation site, dig a trench 0.7 m deep and 0.3 m wide.

Since your cable is not armored, you need to bury it in a HDPE pipe. Don't forget also about the pipes that will go from the drive to the signal light mounting points, the key button and the photocells.

In order not to get confused in the wires, it is better to mark them in advance. You sign the main power cable as “network”.

• signal lamp cable - “lamp”

• coaxial wire for connecting the antenna on the lamp - “antenna”

• cable for key-button - “key”

• for photocells:

TX - UCB transmission cable (on the far post from the drive)
RX - UCB receiving cable (on the nearest column from the drive)

After laying the cable, cover all trenches with earth.

Sliding gates are quite popular today, although relatively recently, few could afford to install them on the site due to the high cost of mechanisms and fittings. Now the cost of construction is much lower, while a person who has welding skills will be able to install sliding gates with their own hands.

Do-it-yourself gate installation

Main components

If you follow the instructions, installing a sliding gate with your own hands is not difficult. For work, consumables will be needed, as well as the main elements of fittings responsible for the movement of the sliding gate leaves. In this case, the accessories consist of:

• traps;
• roller trolley;
• gear rack;
• guide;
• plates for mounting the carriage;
• roller lock;
• end roller.

When choosing accessories, preference should be given to trusted manufacturers, taking into account the cost of all components and their quality. You can turn to professionals for help.

It is much easier to purchase a ready-made kit, which includes all the elements. Such a design only needs to be assembled and installed.

In this video, we will consider the installation of the gate:

Stages of work

Before fixing the sliding gate, it is necessary to determine the scope of the upcoming work. The main steps in the installation of the structure are as follows:

1. Digging a pit and building a foundation.
2. Cable routing, if the gate is required to open automatically by means of an electric drive.
3. Roller attachment.
4. Mounting the gate on rolling rails without adjustment.
5. Fixing the catcher.
6. Final adjustment of all elements.
7. Electrical drive connection (if required).

In order for the gate to serve without interruption for a long time, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions, carefully carrying out all the stages of work.

Foundation construction

Before installing the sliding gate, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work for the construction of the foundation. First you need to calculate the size of the trench. Why you need to follow certain recommendations:

1. From the end of the gate opening, it is necessary to retreat a distance equal to half the width of the total passage. For example, the width is 6 meters, in this case the length of the foundation from the border is 3 meters.
2. The width of the trench will depend on the size of the gate itself. For example, the width of the gate is 12 cm, in which case the trench must be dug 6-8 cm wider in both directions, that is, approximately 12-16 cm.
3. The depth of the trench, all experts recommend doing differently. Some argue that it is necessary to deepen the foundation below the freezing level of the earth, while others are sure that this will not affect the foundation at all. The first believe that the foundation must be 1.4-1.7 m deep, the second argue that 0.7-0.8 m is enough. What depth to do is up to the owner of the site.

Mortgage fastening

To make a mortgage, you will need a welding machine, reinforcement with a section of 12 mm and a channel 15-25 cm wide.

The embedded element is subsequently laid in a trench and concreted. First, the channel is cut to the length of the trench. Then reinforcement must be welded to it to make a frame. The length of the reinforcing wire must be approximately 7-12 cm higher than the depth of the trench, so that in the future it can be sunk into the ground. It doesn’t matter how exactly to weld the reinforcement, there are no special restrictions in this case, the bars can be fixed with a distance of 25 cm. The main thing is that the frame is strong. Instead of fittings, you can use other metal products, such as corners.

When the frame is prepared, it can be laid in a trench. But first, a layer of rubble and sand must be poured onto the bottom, carefully tamping it down. You should get a pillow with a thickness of 7-10 cm. It is necessary to lay the frame of reinforcement so that the channel is flush with the ground surface. Level it with a level. When a significant skew appeared on one side, crushed stone is added to this place. If the mortgage is unevenly set, this will affect the correct movement of the valves.

electrical wiring

If the structure is equipped with an automatic gate opening system or a video camera is required, then you must first take care of the electrical wiring. The cable must be laid before pouring the concrete base. The wire is placed in a corrugated pipe and placed in the foundation.

First you need to decide on the place where the electric drive will be located, and run the cable to this area. The free ends of the cable must be brought out above ground level at a distance of 1.5-2 m.

Foundation pouring

After the wiring has been done and the mortgage has been laid, the foundation can be poured. This will require crushed stone, sand and concrete M400. To prepare the solution, the following ratios must be observed: per kilogram of cement will require 2.6 kg of sand and 6-7 kg of crushed stone. Water should make up half of the total mass of the solution.

It is necessary to prepare the required amount of concrete mix and pour the foundation. It is important not to completely fill the surface of the channel - the foundation must be at its level. After that, the base must be left to dry. This will take approximately 6-7 days. During this time, the foundation will get stronger, and it will be possible to carry out the following work.

Frame assembly

To make a frame, you must have some experience with welding. If there are no welding skills, then you can ask friends or seek help from specialists who can weld the required design.

Gate installation is a long process, but you can do it yourself

To make a frame, profile pipes will be needed. Their size must correspond to the future size of the gate. There are many design variations. The main thing is to choose the right one for a particular case. Then it is necessary to cut the pipes of the required length and perform welding work. Experts recommend assembling the frame so that the horizontal beams are on top of the vertical ones. Due to this, corrosion can be avoided, you just need to install plugs on the pipes. When the frame is assembled, the connection areas must be cleaned and the entire structure painted.

When the gate is more than two meters long, in order to strengthen the frame and prevent the leaves from sagging, it is necessary to fix the crossbars with a distance of 0.5 meters. You should also weld a U-shaped guide beam to the lower support, due to which the wings will be moved. Then the frame is sheathed with corrugated board.

Carriage installation

Roller carriages - the most important mechanism at the gate. This element must withstand the mass of the structure, therefore it is necessary to fasten the carriages to the channel very firmly. Plates for mounting rollers are welded to the channel. Everything must be done perfectly evenly so that the sashes can move freely.

To set the gate level, you can use a stretched cord or a laser level. It is necessary to fasten the plates in the center of the channel. To do this, step back 25 cm from the edge towards the opening and weld the first plate. The other is fixed 20 cm further from the opposite end.

Then you need to fix the roller carts on the plate. As a rule, they are fixed with bolts, which must be tightened well and the gate must be mounted. You should make sure that the movement is smooth, perform control measurements and adjust the roller carriages in order to install the sashes as evenly as possible. To do this, you can use a cord that is pulled along the line of movement of the gate. It will be a guide to help you correctly set the sash.

Mounting the guide

So that the sashes do not move out during movement, a guide is attached from above. She stops the gate and does not allow them to sway with gusts of wind. To do this, marks for fasteners must be marked on the support column. Everything must be carefully measured so that the frame can easily enter the latch.

A bracket must be attached to the pole to fix the guide. If it is necessary to fix it in concrete, then it is necessary to use anchors with a diameter of at least 8 mm. If it is fixed to a metal surface, then you can use metal screws. When using welding, the rollers must be removed.

When the fastener of the latch is completed, it must be checked. The sashes must move smoothly, while maintaining verticality, and the roller carriages must grip them tightly.

End caps and end roller

At the end of the U-shaped guide on both sides, you should fix the end roller, which is installed inside the profile. It is easiest to fix it with bolts. This roller is required so that during the closing of the flaps the guide can roll onto the catcher located below. It is mounted on a pillar support on the opposite side. In this way, the load on the plates holding the rollers can be reduced. Plugs are needed to protect against rain and dust. If they are not installed, then the roller carriages can quickly break down, and the leaves will not move smoothly.

Location of traps

To fix the upper and lower trap, you need to tightly close the gate. The place where the gate frame ends should be marked on the post. Here, below and above, you need to attach mortgages, where the traps will be fixed. Taking into account the type of mortgages, they can be fixed by welding or self-tapping screws.

Catchers soften the contact of the leaves with the support rollers and minimize their loosening during gusts of wind. A bottom catcher is also required to reduce leaf sagging that can occur after extended use. Upon completion of the work, it is necessary to check the correct installation of the entire structure.

Automatic gate system

In order for the gate to open automatically, you need to buy special equipment and install it. First, you need to attach an installation plate to the channel, to which the electric drive will be connected. As a rule, this plate is included in the kit. For fastening, you can use profile pipes that need to be welded to the channel, then the plate should be fixed on them.

After that, it is necessary to install the electric motor on the base and fix it with the help of the bolts that are also included in the kit. The electric motor has screws for adjustment, due to which it can be moved to various positions.

Now it remains only to attach the notched slats to the U-shaped bar. High precision is required here, since the slats must be welded so that they are a single whole. In this case, during the movement there will be no extraneous knocks. Then you need to adjust the drive so that it easily brings the gate into operation. It remains only to adjust the mechanism, taking into account the instructions of the manufacturer.

After all the measures taken, the sliding gates are ready for operation. As you can see, you can handle the installation yourself. But the installation process cannot be called easy. Not only certain skills are required, but also physical effort. Therefore, most private homeowners prefer to trust the installation of sliding gates to specialists.

Sliding gates can be called the most popular type of gate today. Previously, not everyone could purchase such a design because of the high cost of both fittings and other elements of such gates. Today, their prices are much more affordable. The advantages of such gates are practicality and durability. But since this is a complex technical design, it is better to leave the installation of the gate to professionals. If you are confident in your abilities, have some construction skills and tools, then installing sliding gates with your own hands will not be fraught with many difficulties. Moreover, you can save on hiring specialists. The main thing that is needed is to take into account technical requirements, select components, comply with standard loads and follow the instructions. Let's take a closer look at the installation process.

Elements and components of the gate

In fact, having everything you need to do the job, it will not be difficult for you to install the gate. You do not need particularly deep knowledge in construction, just basic knowledge, material and following the recommendations of specialists are enough.

For work, you will need consumables, but the main and important part of the elements is the fittings responsible for the movement of the gate. It consists of:

• roller trolley or carriage (2 pcs.);
• lower and upper trap;
• guide U-shaped beam;
• gear rack;
• removable end roller;
• upper retainer with rollers;
• plates for fixing the roller trolley.

When choosing high-quality accessories, pay attention to trusted manufacturers, taking into account the price and quality of products. You can also seek help from professionals who will help you choose the best option.

It is much easier to buy a ready-made gate kit with all the necessary elements, which you only need to assemble and install in place. It has a special installation instruction, thanks to which you can easily do all the necessary work.

Work plan

1. Digging a trench and building a foundation. Retractable gates are quite heavy, so for smooth and proper operation, you will need to make a foundation.
2. Wiring, if you want your gate to open automatically from the drive, or if you plan to install a video camera on it.
3. Installation of roller elements.
4. Installation of the gate on the rolling mechanism. At this stage, you need to hang the gate without adjustment.
5. Fixing the hardware that catches the gate.
6. Final adjustment of the gate.
7. Connection of automation, if it is provided.

If you want your gate to serve for a long time and without interruption, you need to strictly adhere to the plan and follow the instructions, carefully following each step.

Digging a trench and preparing the foundation

First of all, you need to do the preparatory work for the foundation. Start with trench planning. To do this, follow these tips:

1. From the border of the gate, step back a distance that is equal to half the width of the entire passage. For example, the width of your passage is 4 m, then the length of the foundation will be 2 m from the border.
2. The width of the trench depends on the width of the structure of the gate itself. For example, the width of your gate is 20 cm, then you need to dig a trench 10–15 cm wider in two directions, that is, 40–50 cm.
3. Depth is a matter of controversy for specialists. Some say that it is important to deepen the trench below the level of freezing, others - that this factor does not affect the future foundation at all. According to the first, the foundation should go 1–1.5 m deep, according to the second, 0.5–0.7 m will be enough. What depth you choose is entirely up to you. We recommend doing it no more than 1 m.

After you have decided on the size, use a shovel to dig a trench in the right place. You should end up with something like the picture below.

We prepare the mortgage element

In order to make a mortgage element, you will need:

• channel width 18–20 cm (it can be replaced with a corner of the same size);
• fittings Ø 12–15 mm;

A backfill element is a structure made of a channel and reinforcement, which in the future will be installed in a trench and will be concreted. Take a metal channel and cut it to the length of the entire trench. If it is 2 m, then the channel should be 2 m long. After that, reinforcement must be welded to it to form a metal frame. The length of the reinforcement rods should be 5–10 cm more than the depth of the trench so that it can be sunk into the ground. How exactly you will weld the reinforcement depends on you, there are no restrictions here, it can be welded in increments of 15 cm. The main thing is that the frame is strong, has a vertical base, which is connected by jumpers.

Instead of fittings, you can take a different type of metal products, for example, corners.

After the frame is ready, it can be installed in a trench. But before that, the bottom of the trench should be covered with sand or small gravel and tamped down, making cushion for foundation 5 cm high. Sink the reinforcement so that the surface of the channel is flush with the road surface. Using the building level, set the frame perfectly level. If a strong skew forms on either side, remove the frame and add sand to that place. If the mortgage is placed unevenly, it will prevent the correct movement of the gate.

The foundation must be level with the road. The ground clearance can be no more than 5 cm, so that you do not have problems using it in winter.

Electrical wiring

If your gate will be equipped with an automatic gate opening and closing system, or if you need to install CCTV, you need to take care of laying electrical cables. They need to be carried out immediately before pouring the foundation. The cable is placed in a special corrugated hose and laid in the foundation structure. In advance, you need to decide on the place where the drive will be installed, and run the wires there. The free ends of the wires must be brought out 1–1.5 m above the foundation level. In order to do everything yourself, look at the wiring diagrams and drawings for sliding gates.

Foundation pouring

Once you have laid the wiring, the embedded element can be poured with concrete mix. For this you will need cement grade M400, sand and gravel. The proportions are as follows: for 1 kg of cement, 3 kg of sand and 4–5 kg of crushed stone are needed. Water should be half the weight of all components. It turns out:

The total is 4 liters of water per 1 kg of cement, 3 kg of sand and 4 kg of crushed stone. Mix the required amount of mortar and fill the trench. It is important that the channel surface is not completely concreted, the concrete must be at its level. Now the foundation must be left to dry. It will take 3-5 days, during which it will get stronger and be reliable enough for further work.

Door leaf assembly

To make a frame for the gate, you need to have the skills to work with welding machine, since all elements must be connected by welding. If you do not have welding experience, you can ask your friends or a special workshop for help, where a gate frame will be made according to your drawings.

To make a gate frame, you need to purchase profile pipes. Their size will correspond to the desired gate size. There are many designs that you can make. The main thing is to choose the right one for you, cut the pipes of the right size and do the welding. Professionals advise to cook the frame so that the horizontal cross members are on top of the vertical pipes. Thanks to this, you will prevent corrosion, you only need to plug the horizontal pipes. When the structure is ready, the joints must be cleaned and the frame covered with protective paint.

If your gate is larger than 1.5 m, to strengthen the structure and prevent sagging, you need to weld the crossbars in 50 cm increments.

At the same stage, a guide U-shaped beam should be welded to the lower pipe, thanks to which the gate will move. After that, the frame is sheathed with a profile sheet.

One of the options for how to make a gate frame is presented below.

Installation of roller trolleys to the channel

Roller carriages can be called the most important mechanism, since they must withstand the load of the entire structure, so they should be attached to the channel as securely as possible. Plates for attaching rollers must be welded to the channel. Everything is done as smoothly and in the same plane as possible so that the gate moves freely. To line them up, you can use a laser pointer or a stretched cord. Another option is to draw a parallel line on the foundation, which will be a tangent line to the edge of the plate. The plates should be welded in the middle of the channel. To do this, step back 15 cm from the edge, closer to the opening and fix the first plate. The second plate is attached 10 cm from the opposite edge.

Now you need to fix the roller carts on the plate. Usually they are connected with bolts and nuts. Tighten them securely and install the gate. Check for smooth running, check measurements and adjust the position of the roller bearings to align the door perfectly. To do this, you can use the cord, which must be pulled along the opening line of the gate, at a distance of 20 cm from the surface and 3 cm from the second post. The cord will serve as a guide that will help set the gate perfectly level.

Installing the top retainer

So that when the gate moves, they do not move out, a latch or guide is installed on top of the pole. He will stop the gate and prevent it from swinging in strong winds. To do this, holes for fastenings should be marked on the support column. Measure everything correctly so that the upper frame can go into the latch without obstacles.

On the pole, you need to install a bracket for mounting the guide. If you will be fixing it in concrete or brick, use anchors with a stud diameter of 10 mm. If you are attaching it to metal, then special screws will do. In the case when welding is used, the rollers must be removed.

After fixing the latch, check it. The gate must move smoothly, remain vertical, and the rollers must cover them tightly.

There are different clamps, roller or in the form of a conventional bracket. Which device to choose is your decision.

End roller and plugs

From below, at the end of the guide U-shaped bar, in its front part, it is necessary to fix a removable end roller, which is inserted inside the profile. It attaches easily with screws. On the opposite side, you need to install a plug (plug) or the same roller.

Such a roller is needed so that when the gate is closed, the guide rolls onto the catcher located below, which will be installed on the pole on the other side. In this way, you will be able to reduce the load on the base plates that hold the rollers to the foundation. Plugs or plugs act as a barrier to snow, rain, dirt, and debris that can enter the guide bar. If they are not there, then the roller carriages can quickly fail, and the gate will not open smoothly and easily.

Fixing the upper and lower trap

To secure the lower and upper trap, you need to close the gate as far as it will go. On the post, mark the places where the frame of your gate ends. In this place, above and below, you need to fix the mortgages, to which the traps will be attached. Depending on the mortgages, they can be fixed by welding or bolting.

Catchers will soften the contact of the gate frame with the support rollers, as well as minimize loosening of the structure in strong winds. The lower catcher also serves to reduce the sagging of the frame, which may appear after a long operation of the gate. Finally, check that your gate is properly installed. Open and close them several times, make sure the movement is smooth and even.

Installation and connection of automation

If you want your gate to open and close automatically, you need to purchase special equipment and install it.

First of all, a mounting plate should be welded to the channel, to which the drive will be connected. Usually such a plate is included in the kit. For welding, you can use profile pipes that are welded to the channel, and then a plate is welded to them. After that, the engine itself is installed on the base and fixed with the help of bolts, which are also included in the kit. It has adjusting screws, thanks to which the motor can be adjusted up-down, left-right.

It remains only to weld the gear racks to the U-shaped frame. This will require patience and accuracy, since the slats should be welded so that they are as a whole. Then, when driving, you will not hear any extraneous knocks from the gate. Then adjust the drive so that it easily drives the gate. It remains only to configure the mechanism according to the manufacturer's instructions.

That's all, after all the manipulations, your gate is ready for operation. You can be proud of yourself, because you yourself were able to do such a great job. Properly installed gates will be quite reliable, and their service life will please you.

Video

Watch the detailed video instructions for installing sliding gates:

Another video tutorial:

The versatility of sliding gates allows them to be used not only in industrial buildings, but also in residential buildings. If desired, they can be made by hand. After reading this article, you will receive recommendations on the preparation of the opening, the construction of the foundation, the frame, the drawings of the main structural elements are attached.

First you need to find out what resources will be needed to make the gate. It may be cheaper to order a ready-made design than to buy numerous tools. Although most of them are still useful in the economy. So, you need to prepare:

• shovel;
• welding machine;
• grinder;
• axe;
• building level;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• hammer.

Note! Almost all the tools from the list should be available in any home. The only exception is a welding machine, but you can take it from your neighbors or, in extreme cases, buy it - such a thing will certainly not be superfluous.

Having dealt with the equipment, you can begin to calculate the cost of building materials. In this case, we will talk about gates of standard sizes with an opening of 4 m. Everything you need can be bought at hardware stores and metal depots, and if you wish, you can replace it with something that is cheaper, more expedient, more durable, etc.

1. The concrete mortar for fixing the "mortgage" is mixed from cement, crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1: 3: 3.
2. Roller carriages will be installed on the "mortgage" (channel ½ of the gate width). For greater strength, reinforcement no more than 1 m long is welded to the lower part of the channel. In total, seven to eight meter sections and three at an angle (17-18 m in total) are needed.
3. The door leaf measuring 2x4 m on one side will be sheathed with corrugated board. For its manufacture, you need: 180-200 self-tapping screws, 10 m² of corrugated board, a package of electrodes, 5 m of 6x6 cm pipes, 20 m of 4x2 and 6x3 cm pipes, a can of primer, a can of paint, a solvent.

Note! If a gate of a different size is planned, then all calculations must be carried out independently. You can use the online calculators that are available on the websites of many hardware stores.

The basis for the "mortgage"

The construction of sliding gates begins with the creation of the foundation for the "mortgage". As already mentioned, the length of the "mortgage" should be equal to ½ the width of the gate, in this case it is 2 m. 9-10 meter pieces of reinforcement ø1-1.4 cm are welded to this element and a hole is pulled out 1 m deep and 30 cm wide ( approximately the width of the shovel bayonet + 30 cm for the channel).

• cement, 100 kg;
• fine crushed stone, 300 kg;
• sand, 300 kg.

Ready concrete is poured in such a way that one level with the “mortgage” comes out, otherwise water will accumulate there. While the solution dries (this takes at least 7 days), all the necessary fittings are selected.

Mounting profile pipe

The upper rollers, as well as the catchers located above and below, are conveniently mounted using a 3x6 cm profile pipe. It is installed along the entire height of the column, as well as in the places where the fittings are attached. There are two ways to fix this pipe.

Fasteners are often additionally reinforced with anchors. At the same time, it is worth noting that over time, the anchors installed in the brick loosen.

Pipe concreting is more reliable, but this requires a lot of labor, which is not always advisable. The mount will look something like this: the lower rollers are installed, then the door leaf, and the upper rollers are welded on top. With regards to the lower catcher, it is already welded in fact, focusing on the line along which the canvas approaches the pole at the opposite end.

"Embedded" are welded to the pipe, while using small corner profiles. In the future, "mortgages" are painted in the color of the door leaf.

Note! Without assembling the "mortgages", extremely accurate removal of the reinforcing bars to the catcher and rollers will be required, which in itself is quite difficult. Or you will have to fix it with anchors, which, as mentioned earlier, is very unreliable.

Hardware selection

After preparing the foundation and the "mortgage", all the necessary components are selected. Accessories include:

• guide rail 5-7 m long;
• plugs;
• a pair of roller carriages;
• grips;
• end and top rollers.

Note! It is better to buy all these components, because for their independent production, special equipment and considerable knowledge in the field of technology are required. As a result, home-made fittings will cost more than store-bought.

First you need to determine the length of the rail. It should be 1.5 times the width of the opening. A product of 1.3 widths is taken in two cases:

• if the weight of the gate is insignificant (less than 250 kg);
• if there is not enough space to open.

All fittings are usually designed for a specific weight - approximately 500-800 kg. If the canvas is sheathed with corrugated board, then fittings should be selected for a weight of 350-400 kg. But if the material used for sheathing weighs a lot, then it is better to opt for 800 kg.

The canvas will "ride" on rollers, metal or plastic. With proper operation, both options will last a long time, but it is still preferable to choose plastic ones - they make less noise when opening / closing the gate.

When buying, you should pay attention to the presence of the upper grip and rubber plugs.

Note! If all the components are made carefully and are sold in original packaging, then the manufacturer is serious and uses only high-quality equipment. You should not buy parts that are sold in plastic bags or have uneven edges - this is a clear sign of "handicraft" production, and in case of any problems, there will simply be no one to make a claim.

Frame construction

Step 1. First you need to prepare a place for assembly. Its dimensions should be larger than the dimensions of the future design.

Step 2. Pipes are prepared (for the frame you need to take 5x5x0.2 cm), cleaned of scale or rust, after which they are treated with gasoline and coated with a primer. For priming, you can use a spray gun (the work will be done faster) or a regular brush (the primer layer will be thicker).

Step 3. After the pipes have dried, the frame is welded. It is important that there are no holes left at the joints where water could penetrate.

Step 4. An internal frame is being prepared, which is necessary for fixing the corrugated board. A smaller pipe 4x2x0.2 cm is placed on a larger one - 5x5x0.2 cm:

• in the middle, if two-sided sheathing is planned;
• closer to the edge, if only one surface is sheathed, there will be room for corrugated board.

Pipes are welded in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 40 cm - so they will not “lead” at high temperatures.

Step 5 Welding points are processed with a grinder and covered with a primer layer.

Step 7. After the paint has completely dried, the frame is sheathed. The corrugated board is fixed with self-tapping screws on the inner frame.

Video - Gate installation

Step 1. Roller carriages are installed on the "mortgage", and gates are already placed on them (the rollers are threaded into the guide). Further, using the building level, the verticality of the structure is checked and, if everything is fine, the carriages are welded to the channel.

Many use bolts for such fastening, since there are suitable holes in the carriages. But you don’t need to do this, because measuring and making holes in the “mortgage” will take a lot of time and effort. Moreover, if even a millimeter error is found, then you will have to cut off the bolts and repeat the procedure again.

Welding is more suitable, because it provides a field for maneuvers - if necessary, you can always cut it off and move the carriage. Welding is no less reliable than bolts - with it, the gate will stand for decades.

Step 2. Mortgages for other components are prepared from 6x3 cm pipes. In appropriate places, reinforcing bars are removed from the pillars, to which catchers with rollers must be fixed.

Step 3. The end of the guide is equipped with a roller with special clamps, after which it is closed on both sides with rubber plugs. The location of all elements is carefully measured, then roller carriages are welded.

Video - Sliding gates

Automation

Note! Automation can only be installed if the gate moves easily and without any jumps.

The installation technology for gate automation is described on the example of the Chinese model PS-IZ, which has proven itself very positively. The automation kit will consist of:

• electric drive;
• signal light;
• gear rack;
• remote control;
• photocells.

For installation you will need the following equipment:

• welding;
• drill;
• drills for metal.

The drive will be powered by a cable 0.2x0.2 cm, and for photocells 0.4x0.07 cm and 0.2x0.05 cm will be required. A cable with a cross section of 0.2x0.07 cm is connected to the signal light. The electric drive will be fixed on the same channel, as carriages.

Step 1. First, the installation location of the drive is selected. For this, a base is taken (it should be included), the drive itself is placed on it. The base is placed between the carriages and the working position is recreated - a gear rack is installed on the gear of the electric drive. The location of the channel is adjusted so that the rack is in the center of the gear and is fixed on the outer frame (but only on the profile pipe).

Step 2. The installation site is marked, after which the base is placed and scalded there.

Note! Quite often, the drive has to be raised by two to three centimeters. In this case, the remains of the profile pipe are welded to the "mortgage", and the base is already attached to them.

After that, the actuator is screwed to the base.

Step 4. Limit switches are screwed to the rail. They are mechanical and magnetic (the latter are more reliable).

Step 5. The drive is connected according to the manufacturer's instructions, after which it is tested. If everything is normal, the Photo-GND jumper is removed and photocells are installed.

Note! One element gives a light signal, and the other receives it. In the presence of a signal, the system functions normally, but if any obstacle arises in the path of the beam (a car, an animal, a child, etc.), then the canvas immediately begins to move back.

Step 6. A signal lamp is attached to the left side of the structure with self-tapping screws. This is optional, but for safety reasons, it is still better to put a lamp. To do this, you need a cable with a cross section of 0.2x0.07 cm. The cable is soldered to the Light and AC-N contacts on the board.

Actually, after thisdo-it-yourself sliding gate drawingsand instructions for the manufacture of which are given in this article, you can already use. For a more detailed acquaintance with the nuances of installation, watch the thematic video.

Video - Homemade sliding gates

Sliding or sliding gates are gaining popularity among private developers, as all the necessary components for their installation have appeared on the market at an affordable price. At cost, swing gates are, of course, cheaper. Sliding structures win in terms of aesthetics and ease of use. You can reduce costs by saving on the services of installation companies by installing sliding gates with your own hands. This is not so difficult to do if you understand the schemes, watch video tutorials, and also consult with experienced home craftsmen. To perform the work, a ready-made kit for mounting cantilever sliding gates is purchased, which includes two rollers, a carrier beam made of a U-shaped profile, several traps and holders. The assembly and installation of the sliding gate structure is carried out in a certain sequence.

This video demonstrates the process of installing a sliding gate with your own hands. After viewing, all the questions that arose earlier on the installation of sliding gates will disappear by themselves. So clearly and simply shows each individual operation.

Below is a diagram and a list of the main elements of a ready-made set of sliding gates, presented on the market by both foreign and domestic manufacturers of this type of equipment.

Legend: 1. Guide U-shaped beam; 2. Roller supports or trolleys (two pieces); 3. Removable end roller; 4. Bottom catcher; 5. Top catcher; 6. Top latch with rollers (bracket); 7. Plate for fixing roller bearings

On a foundation specially prepared for the installation of sliding gates, a pair of bearing roller bearings is fixed at a certain distance from each other. The guide U-shaped beam is welded or screwed to the lower edge of the metal frame of the door leaf. Roller bearings not only withstand the load falling on them from the entire structure, but also ensure its free movement. The supports are fastened with the help of embedded bolts or a special plate that is securely fixed to the foundation.

The roller bearings are fastened to the steel channel, which is laid in the foundation together with the reinforcing cage, using bolts or welding.

The gates are installed on roller carts so that they are inside the U-shaped carrier beam. This arrangement protects the rollers from contamination, which affects the duration of their trouble-free operation. As a result, the gate easily rolls to the side, both in manual control mode and in automatic control mode using an electric motor.

Important! The frame for the door leaf, welded from a profile pipe with dimensions of 60x40x2 mm (main frame) and 20x20x1.5 mm (lintels), must be sufficiently rigid. After all, the gate leaf is under the influence of wind loads, which can be very significant. The canvas should also not be subjected to any deformation under the pressure of its own weight.

Many manufacturers are engaged in the production of fittings for sliding gates, among which ROLTEK (St. Petersburg), CAME and Rolling-Center (Italy), DOORHAN (Moscow) are considered the most famous on the Russian market.

The sets of components required for the installation of sliding gates are divided into three sizes according to the weight of the structure and the clear width of the opening:

• small (up to 400 kg and up to 4 m);
• medium (up to 600 kg and up to 6 m);
• large (from 600 kg and from 6 m).

When choosing the right kit, they are guided by the width of the opening to be blocked, the height of the canvas and the total weight of the entire structure.

Preparatory stage - pouring the foundation

Work on the foundation for sliding gates begins with the marking of the trench. At the same time, from the edge of the opening on the side of the rollback of the gate, the length of the concrete base is set aside, equal to half the width of the passage. The width of the foundation base is 40-50 cm. When calculating the depth of the pit, the level of soil freezing in a given area is taken into account. In the Moscow region, the foundation is laid with a depth of 1.7 m, and in Siberia - 2.5-3 m.

An embedded element is made from the channel 18 and reinforcement (d 12), by welding all the parts together in accordance with the diagram. The channel must be used to enhance the strength and rigidity of the foundation under construction. The low-alloy steel used in the production of channels is able to withstand low temperatures and is not susceptible to corrosion. The length of the channel blank is equal to half the width of the opening. The length of vertical reinforcing bars is calculated from the condition that they must go below the freezing depth of the soil.

The embedded frame is welded from channel 18 and reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 12 mm. Reinforcement can be replaced with steel corners

By connecting the vertical rods with steel lintels, a strong reinforcing cage is obtained, which is lowered into the prepared trench for pouring the foundation. First, a layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench, which is carefully compacted.

Important! The level of the foundation must match the level of the road. The ground clearance must be higher than 5 cm so that there are no problems when operating the gate in winter.

Before pouring the foundation, you should check the horizontal position of the reinforcing cage, using the building level for this. During alignment, also make sure that the longitudinal axis of the steel channel is parallel to the fence line.

If you plan to install a drive to automate the control of sliding gates, then at the stage of pouring the foundation, lay the wires, hiding them in special corrugated tubes. The exit point of the wire bundle is chosen based on the planned location of the electric drive. Usually the equipment is installed in the middle of the foundation.

A reinforcing cage is lowered into the trench prepared for the foundation. In this case, the plane of the steel channel is aligned with the level of the roadway

To fill the foundation, a concrete mortar is mixed from 4-5 bags of M400 cement, crushed stone (0.3 cubic meters) sand (0.5 cubic meters). The poured foundation is left alone for 3-5 days, during which the concrete will gain the desired strength. After the specified time, proceed to the installation of sliding gates.

Step-by-step instructions for installation work

Mark the line of movement of the gate using a cord stretched along the opening, placing it at a height of 200 mm from the surface of the roadway and at a distance of 30 mm from the response post. On this cord you will align the position of the carrier profile (beam).

Prepare the roller carriages for installation and insert them sequentially inside the supporting profile beam. Then move the carts to the center of the gate. Place the gate leaf with the roller bearings inserted into the profile on the steel channel of the embedded structure. Then place the first and second supports in the marked places, and adjust the gate so that they are parallel to the stretched cord and touch it.

Fastening roller trolleys to the channel

Weld the adjusting platform of the second roller support to the channel. After rolling the gate into the opening to the very end and checking the horizontal position of the leaf, weld the adjusting platform of the first roller support by welding.

• Remove the sliding door leaf from the roller bearings.
• Remove the supports themselves from the adjusting platforms.
• After welding along the contour, weld the adjusting pads to the steel embedded element.
• Attach the roller bearings to the welded leveling pads.
• Slide the sliding gate leaf onto the roller bearings.
• Install the gate in the closed position and adjust the horizontal position of the carrier profile plane. To do this, use a wrench to raise or lower the adjusting pads relative to each other.

The installation of the front bearing roller bogie is carried out 150 mm from the edge of the door opening, so that when they are fully opened, the end roller will rest against the support

Important! It is possible to give a horizontal position to the gate only if they are in the closed state.

Free play adjustment

Adjust the position of the roller bearings located inside the carrier profile. To do this, slightly loosen the upper nuts securing the roller bearings to the adjusting platforms. Close and open the gate by rolling it from end to end several times. In this case, the roller bearings will be able to take the correct position inside the carrier profile, in which the gate moves easily and freely. When you have finished adjusting the free travel of the gate, tighten the upper nuts of the roller bearings tightly.

Mounting the end roller and plugs

Next, install the end roller, as well as the plug of the carrier profile. To do this, an end roller is inserted inside the supporting U-shaped profile, placing it on the front side of the door leaf, and the part is fixed with fixing bolts.

The cap of the supporting profile, supplied with the sliding gate, is welded on the back side of the door leaf. This detail prevents the carrier profile from being clogged with snow in winter, which prevents the door from jamming.

When installing the top bracket, it can be used for fixing both anchors and welding. The bracket rollers are lubricated after installation for better glide

To install the upper guide bracket, loosen the fasteners of its rollers. Then the bracket is placed above the door leaf in such a way that the rollers touch the upper edge of the leaf, and the side with the holes provided for fasteners is directed towards the support post. Pressing the bracket to the surface of the support post, fix the part with fasteners.

Sheathing the door leaf with a profiled sheet

After that, they proceed to sheathing the frame frame of the gate with a profiled sheet, cut in height and width to the desired size. Installation of the profiled sheet starts from the front edge of the gate. Sheathing is fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets. Each subsequent sheathing sheet is superimposed on the previous sheet "on one wave".

As a material for sheathing sliding gates, profiled sheet is most often used, which is complemented by forged elements that give the structure an elegant and special look.

Installing traps: why and how?

One of the last stages of installing a ready-made set of sliding gates is the installation of traps. The lower catcher, installed when the door is fully loaded, allows you to partially remove the load from the roller bearings when the leaf is closed. To determine the position of the lower catcher, close the gate and align it with the end roller.

The upper catcher helps to keep the gate leaf, which is in the closed state, from swinging during the action of sail loads. The upper catcher is mounted at the level of the protective corners, and in the closed position they (the corners) must touch the brackets of the upper catcher.

Rules for self-installation of automation

At the last stage, automation is installed, if this option was originally planned. In this case, the movement of the sliding gate leaf is carried out with the help of gear racks, which are sold in meter-long pieces along with fasteners. Reiki are attached to the carrier profile. When installing automatic sliding gates with your own hands, you should know that in addition to gear racks, you will need an electric drive, a remote control, a beacon lamp and a key. Everything is installed in full accordance with the requirements of the instructions attached to the equipment for automatic gate movement control. In case of difficulty, you can contact an experienced electrician.

As you can see, you can cope with the installation of sliding gates on your own. However, this process cannot be called easy. Not only knowledge is needed, but also physical effort. Therefore, many private developers prefer to trust the installation of sliding gates to professionals.