What a solid log house today. Which log house is better for home and bath. Types of wood: which log house is better for a bath and why

The thickness of the log and the width of the groove Features of the felling methods Log cabin of winter felling Determine the order of cutting Determine the diseased logs Determine the presence of bark beetle Check the quality of cutting Determine the grade of logs Disadvantages of a log house made with a chainsaw

Hello dear DIYers.

If you need a quality log house, which will become yours in the future cozy home let's learn how to choose it.

To begin with, you probably need to understand why, in fact, a log house needs to be chosen, and chosen carefully, because it is made by people who live on it and know everything about the log house from and to, and will they really deceive us and slip something that is poor quality.

Of course, this is not entirely true. Imagine the ideal picture. The man decided to make a log house, chose suitable trees in the forest, at the right time, and correctly felled them, and processed them, and then, slowly, cut down the log house.

This is ideal. What is really going on with us. An entrepreneur, for a lot of money, often taken on credit, buys a piece of forest at an auction - a plot. Moreover, he was not given much choice, what was put up for auction, from which he bought.

Now this plot needs to be developed as soon as possible, because the interest on the loan is ticking, what kind of “at the right time” is it. To do this, equipment and workers are sent to the forest, who need to be paid for the work - again, a considerable investment.

If there was only a drill, healthy forest on the purchased plot, it would be very good, but this is again an ideal, in fact, there is a large percentage of trunks with various flaws on it.

I will not rush in terms, since this will not give you anything at all, I will only say that in order to return the invested money, pay off interest, and make a profit, an entrepreneur will simply need to put the damaged trunks into business, that is, sell, and sell, preferably first class.

That is, good trunks will definitely be “diluted” with the second and third grades. And the trees will be cut down from the ground itself, so as not to lose expensive cubes of wood, and not to remain in the span, what kind of “correctly dump” here.

As you can see, life dictates its own conditions, which are far from ideal. And then there’s the frantic demand for log cabins that have come into fashion, made its relaxing contribution, and the “dilution” of high-quality trunks with low-quality ones became, as it were, in the order of things.

Log thickness and groove width

What thickness of logs do you need for your log house?

What is the width of the interventional groove should be at the crowns of the log house?

I will provide data and reference literature to help you answer these questions.

The thickness of the log and the width of the groove depends on the external minus temperature.

The width of the groove is approximately 2/3 of the diameter, while the height of the log in the log house will be 3/4 of the diameter.

Groove width:

at -20°С - 10-12 cm.

at -30°С - 12-14 cm.

at -40°С 14-16 cm.

Based on these data - the diameter of the log:

at -20°C not less than 20 cm, taking into account drying - from 24 cm.

at -30°C not less than 24 cm, taking into account drying - from 28 cm.

at -40 ° C 28 cm, taking into account drying - from 32 cm.

Features of felling methods

There are many ways to cut. These are the most popular bowl and paw, as well as Canadian Swedish and norwegian felling, with and without a fat tail groove, in a carriage and in a comb groove. I saw a combination of these methods and even exotic felling.

But I will only tell you about those that I did myself, because I know all their nuances, both during felling and during further operation, and this is a paw and a cup.

Cutting into a cup will provide your home with warm corners and a stylish look. The log along the fibers freezes 3-4 times faster than across and the cup outlets will protect the corners from freezing.

But the cup will require additional wood consumption, or reduce the internal area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. In addition, if a log house is made from a forest of summer felling, then it will need to be punched very tightly so that the logs do not sink in the middle of the wall over time.

Cutting in the paw. The paw is of two types - straight and dovetail. A straight line can be made in household buildings - it’s easier, but for a house there is only a dovetail. Its advantage lies in the fact that the dovetail has a shape that does not allow the log house to crumble, and even vice versa, when sagging, it pulls the logs together even more.

Such a cutting is more economical than a cup, but it requires additional insulation of the corners. Usually it is performed by sheathing them with a plank. But you can think of more original version, a la carved architraves, or natural stone siding.

One more thing. In this article, we will talk specifically about the log house. Please do not confuse it with a rounded log. With what fright a rounded log is called a log house - I don’t understand at all. In fact, this is lumber that the ax did not touch at all, and the quality of this material cannot be compared with the quality of a chopped log.

In general, this is Finnish technology, but the Finns have a different forest. Its wood is denser, and the trunks are more even. When rounding such a trunk, the densest upper layer(oblon), removed to a very shallow depth, and remains almost undamaged.

In the middle lane, in order to align the log, the overhang, the most valuable part of the trunk, is removed almost completely. The situation is very similar to the cultivation of corn in Russia under Khrushchev. In America, it grows very well, but we got a complete shame, and jokes.

Of course, if you have the opportunity to purchase a house made of logs made from the trees of the northern regions of Russia, then the flag is in your hands. Such a log will not cause any complaints.

Now, I hope, it is clear why, before you give your hard-earned money and cover the clearing for joy, you need to carefully check the quality of the purchased log house.

And then you can wash it.

Winter felling

The first condition is that the log house must be winter. The best option is trees felled immediately after Epiphany frosts. It is by this time that the smallest amount of methyl alcohol remains in the wood. This oxidation of it stains the log in an unpleasant grey colour, and the smell of this oxidation lures the bark beetle.

Determining a winter log house is very simple. Trunks felled in the second half of winter do not darken until late autumn, and retain a beautiful, golden-orange-brown color.

If you order a log house, and do not buy ready-made, then it is better to do it in January. By this time, the stocks of summer felling trunks are running out, and it is purely visually possible to determine whether the tree has been felled for a long time.

We determine the order and quality of cutting logs

The next thing you need to pay attention to is the logs of the first cut. They are determined by knots, which, if not completely absent, are very rare and dead.

As I said, the whole forest is now falling from the very root. And if this method of felling is very suitable for the production of lumber, then it is not for a log house, since the tree trunk, usually closer to the ground, thickens sharply.

When choosing a log house, you need to make sure that these thickenings are cut off, and not hewn, since all the overhang is cut off, and soft wood, more prone to decay, is just in the corner of the house.

We define set logs

If you ask: “What is this?”, then you will get the answer that this is an ordinary tar pocket, which is not at all the case. Resin in these flaws, of course, is present, but the resin pocket is always inside the barrel, and not outside, and if you make a transverse cut along such a flaw, the following picture will open:

As you can see inner part logs, closer to the core, as if flaking off from the outside. And I only show slightly unhealthy logs, it happens much worse. In any case, if such troubles are found, such logs should be asked to be replaced.

Just please do not confuse set damage with knotholes, and vice versa. There are times when they are very similar.

In case of doubt, it is better to take a sharp knife and clean out the bark in the cavity. If only clean wood is under it, then the alarm is false. If a darkened area is found, usually at the very bottom, then the trunk of the patient means.

Do we need it?

Checking for bark beetle

Therefore, if there are traces of a bark beetle in a small amount, then you should not refuse a log house. It will be necessary to carefully examine each log before installation, and if holes left by the bark beetle are found, inject turpentine into them with a syringe.

Only the larvae of this beetle inside the tree are dangerous. He himself, having arrived at the smell of methyl alcohol emitted by planed wood, does not pose a danger, since there is no longer any bark on the trunks.

Now let's see how the log cabin is cut down

Checking the quality of cutting

First of all, we look at the gap between the logs. Best of all, when it is not visible at all, from a distance of 5 - 6 meters. But a gap of more than a centimeter, speaks of not enough quality work done.

A fresh log house, in the paws, should not have any gaps at all. Look here - a fresh log house:

And here is the same, but already dried up:

As you can see, the gaps - you can stick your finger through. The tree dries out, and this is natural. But imagine if there was a gap in a fresh log house, then what size it will become when the log house dries.

The same, by the way, happens with the gaps between the logs. A fresh log house should not have them.

And the last thing you need to check is the width of the groove. It is difficult to do this in a foot, for a non-specialist, so you can view the grooves, if you were not present at the felling, before loading, when the foot is scattered.

Loading is like that. Everyone is in a hurry. A car, a loader, hard workers, everyone wants to load it faster and send a log house. So to speak, the final chord.

This mood should be immediately knocked down, and make it clear to everyone that you will carefully check each log.

Why during loading and not during acceptance at the installation site? The gimps are smaller. As long as everything is in place, it is much easier to make a claim, and demand to fix the marriage, or replace the log.

The minimum allowable groove width, and only in individual, logically explained places - 10 cm.

Determine the type of log

First, in all honesty: which of the owners of log cabins knows what kind of log they have a log cabin.

The grade of a log, which is of decisive importance in the construction of a house, is forgotten as a harmful indicator that interferes with business.

Let's refresh our memory and restore the truth.

For reference: from time immemorial, logs of the first grade were used for the construction of houses and baths. The second and third grade went to outbuildings.

Why define a grade. The log has a northern and southern part of the trunk. They are determined by the annual rings. On the north side, the annual rings are thinner.

In a log house, a log is placed with the north side outside the building. Only a first-class log can be laid like that.

Hence the first conclusion that determines the grade at a glance: if a log in a log house lies with the northern part not outward, then it is not the first grade by 99%. 1% for non-professionalism or bungling of the cutter.

Only in a log of the first grade will it be possible to make an interventional groove of uniform width and depth, but this is determined only when disassembling the foot.

But the knots are visible in the foot. In a first-class log, they do not exceed 3-5 cm in diameter.

I will give some requirements that define a log of the first grade of pine according to GOST 9463-88. Detailed data, and data on other varieties, you will find in this GOST.

1. Runaway (difference between the end diameters of the log) - 0.6-0.8 cm / m

2. Deflection (% of log length)

a) on one plane - 1

b) on two planes - o.5

3. Permissible knot size

a) log diameter up to 24 cm - 3 cm.

b) log diameter 26 cm and above - 5 cm

4. Wormholes - not allowed.

And interesting data on the cost of round timber of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd grades, with a diameter of 26 cm or more:

1st grade – 100% cost
2nd grade — 80% of the cost
3rd grade — 70% of the cost

The disadvantages of a log house made with a chainsaw

And the last thing I would like to pay attention to is what tool the log house was made with. Recently, the ax in the production of log cabins has become exotic. Everywhere, all operations are performed by a chainsaw.

It is still impossible to say what this leads to, since there simply are not enough old log cabins made with this tool. However, if you think about it.

The surface after processing with a saw is much inferior in quality to the surface processed with an ax, which compacts the wood.

It is not for nothing that our ancestors chose a chopping tool for the manufacture of a log house. If there was a need, they would come up with something cutting.

Another disadvantage of a chainsaw and a chainsaw is that when choosing a groove, there are deep cuts inside the log, which are absolutely useless, and which will never occur when working with an ax. These cuts have to be punched with moss separately so that frost does not get into them.

A triangular-shaped interventional groove is made with a chainsaw. Neither in history, nor in GOSTs, nor in other documents, is there any mention of a groove of this shape.

There is a moon-shaped groove, a full and incomplete groove-comb, a comb, but there is no triangular one. This is the latest invention, designed to reduce labor and time costs, while maintaining cost, and perverting the concepts of quality.

Damn marketing!

The final decision in this matter, of course, will remain with you, but personally I found a master to help me, working only with an ax, and a house on suburban area, I will put it chopped.

If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I'll try to answer as quickly as possible.

I wish you a good choice, and labor success.

Instruction

First of all, you should decide what you need a log house for and what size will it be? House or bath standard sizes cost less, their manufacture and delivery will take more short time. If you want a custom home, get ready to pay for the project and be patient. For baths, rocks that are less prone to decay, such as aspen and larch, are most suitable, but they are very expensive and not very common. The most common and affordable materials in the production of log cabins are spruce and pine. Spruce has a beautiful white wood, darkens little, but is highly susceptible to deformation and cracks when dried. Pine has a dense yellowish wood with a beautiful texture, but is prone to blue. According to its characteristics, it is considered preferable to spruce.

The wood that was harvested in winter is of the highest quality: but it should also be used in winter or spring. If you are buying a house in the fall, carefully inspect the logs, they must be dry, free of rot, cracks, fungus or tree beetle. But deadwood is not suitable for construction either, it contains too little resin, which makes the house vulnerable to precipitation and shortens the life of the material.

It is very important to choose the way of cutting the corner. The most common types are "bowl" and "paw". Experts most often advise the "bowl", here the corner is more powerful and warmer. It is less susceptible to precipitation and is considered more stable, but further cladding will be difficult. In the “paw” the angle is weaker and colder, such cutting is more laborious, requires great skill and must, before the final assembly, undergo drying for several months, therefore it often costs more than the “bowl”.

For our climatic zone, the thickness of the logs should be from 18 to 40 cm. The first row (crown) is made of thicker logs. On the underside of each log, a groove is knocked out that holds the crowns together; tow and dry moss are placed in the groove for insulation. to give the walls stability, at home the crowns are reinforced with plug-in spikes (12-15 cm high), placing them in a checkerboard pattern along the height of the log house at 1.5-2 m in length. Pay attention to the quality of the assembly of the log house, there should be no gaps and slots in the grooves between the logs, along the log, if any, the house will be cold.

A rounded log has a number of advantages, thanks to machine processing, all logs have the same diameter, a finished groove and an exact junction of logs in the corners, because of this, the assembly of such a house is similar to a children's designer and does not require special skill. During production, logs are treated against fungi, moisture and fire. But this technology is still quite new and has not had time to prove itself, many experts believe that cleaning a log from the required amount of bark makes it vulnerable, and chemical impregnation is harmful to human health.

The bathhouse is an important outbuilding. Every owner of a private house or cottage has it. In many houses, it is now possible to install both a bath and a shower, but the bath is still in demand. Where else can you relax, take a steam bath with a broom, rub yourself in the snow? But the building in which people wash is constantly exposed to moisture, steam, heat. It is used at any time of the year, while the indoor temperature can be 80°C, and the outside temperature in the cold season - 15°C.

You can completely build the entire bath yourself, that is, the walls, and the floor, and the roof. The second way is to purchase a log house and install it on the foundation.

This is easier and faster, but now many companies offer different log cabins for buildings, so the problem of choice arises. How to find out which log house is better to buy?

First of all, you need to find out from the seller what kind of wood the blank was made of, where it was cut down, at what time of the year. At the second stage, you need to carefully consider the condition of the logs. Third important point- the type of timber from which the frame is made. Another important factor is the price. As a rule, similar products are presented on the market, but at the same time, different sellers have different prices for the same product.

What are log cabins made of?

For their manufacture, not only coniferous, but also deciduous trees are used.

Most often, baths and saunas are made of spruce or pine, because they tolerate shrinkage well, are inexpensive, and easy to handle. But at the same time, pine is more susceptible to moisture, that is, the period of use of such a log house is less than spruce. They also have a common drawback - there is a lot of resin in the trunks, it will constantly stand out from the high temperature.

A log house for a bath made of cedar is very a good choice. It is beautiful, durable, strong - the logs will not crack over time, it easily tolerates shrinkage. Its disadvantage is that the price is too high.

Larch trunks are good for a bath, they tolerate a humid environment well, are very durable, and do not burn well due to the fact that they contain a lot of resin. The price of a log house made of larch is lower than that of cedar, but much more expensive than the rest.

Many, when asked which log house is better, boldly answer that you need to buy a product only from coniferous trees. In fact, some hardwoods are suitable for baths. For example, aspen. It does not crack, does not rot from constant exposure to water, it is light and durable, does not damage during shrinkage, and is notable for its low price. You can use lime logs. Such a bath is easily warmed up and does not cool down for a long time, light and durable, but it is destroyed by constant exposure to moisture, that is, its service life is short. And the price is higher than that of aspen.

Of great importance is the place where the trees grew. It is desirable that the soil there was not very wet. The next important moment is when the trees were cut down. Best time- this is winter, as they are stronger at this time.

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The appearance of the log

During the construction of a log house, the quality of workmanship is important, and not just the type of wood. Therefore, before buying, you need to carefully examine the building and check whether there are cracks, damage, whether the logs or beams are even, whether the color matches the natural color of the tree. Pay attention to any dark spots, these may be signs of decay. The smell emanating from the tree should be pleasant, without unnecessary impurities.

Log cabins are made of the same processed logs (rounded timber), profiled or glued timber. The difference between them is that the first two types of material are solid, and the third is made up of several boards or bars. For a bath, it is not recommended to use glued laminated timber, since with significant heating it can emit a specific odor and harm health.

A house or a bathhouse made of logs (for readers interested in a beam for a bath) is a widespread practice, to the point that you can not know anything about the subject at all, order some construction company"turnkey" building and get the finished result. But it is unlikely that you would read our articles if everything suited you in this version.

Yes, and we ourselves believe that a good owner will definitely consider it necessary to delve into the subject, learn more about the material- which log is better for a bath, what size, diameter, how they differ, what properties they have. This knowledge is also useful in order to understand what construction is being done from, and to control some parameters or processes. Yes, and after, too - the log house is not to say that it is capricious, but still requires care.

So let's deal with everything, and along the way, you see, and dispel some myths.

Which one is better

I would like to start with the consideration of wood. And not immediately by breed, but for now only with conventional wisdom, What the best wood will be the one that was harvested in the winter.

IMPORTANT! Antiseptics must be distinguished for internal and external work, and not to be confused with each other. It is worth processing the log after laying it, and with the part that will be inaccessible in the future, they do this - they do not impregnate the tree with an antiseptic, but a jute gasket (for example).

What breeds are suitable for felling

As already mentioned, for the most part, these will be coniferous breeds. It is them that you will most often meet on the market and in the offers of construction companies.

Of course, there are many taiga in Russia, but main reason will still strength And resistance to decay due to resins. And, of course, trunk straightness- it is higher in conifers than in deciduous ones. All this applies not only to the cheap pine and spruce mentioned above, but also to the more expensive species - larch and cedar. You can also offer fir.

From deciduous we would call oak, birch, aspen, alder And linden. But only it has sufficient strength and resistance to external influences. And he is very expensive.

Since we are talking about a bath, where heat softens the resin of conifers and causes it to flow to the surface, there are two options: either partially use hardwood to build a steam room, or sheathe a steam room from coniferous hardwood.

Spruce has less resin and is lighter than pine. Larch and - noble species. Larch is not afraid of water, it only makes it stronger.

BY THE WAY! As for the cedar, you should not flatter yourself - this is not at all the tree from which King Solomon built. Here you will find not Lebanese cedar, but Russian ... cedar pine. That's what we call "cedar".

Whom to choose? Focus on budget. If it allows, take a larch, if not, then it will go. Although ... I would like to advise not to trust myths too much - under adverse conditions, larch may well rot, and under favorable conditions, it can stand for decades.

And be warned that round log, into which cone-shaped trunks turn, over time can present a lot unpleasant surprises. Especially from the same larch. If a log is taken atmospheric drying, then it very often begins to lead over time. It can twist, bend, or just go into deep cracks.

This can be avoided only if you take trunks that have been subjected to heat treatment. It is of two types - ordinary And chamber. In the first case, uniform shrinkage is achieved, but with the preservation of the resin.

The second lasts much longer, and the output is wood with evaporated resin, which does not no shrinkage, no torsional deformation, buckling, no cracking. All this is extremely valuable, but only the price of such wood is too big.

Dimensions, diameter

Before naming the dimensions of a log for a bath, let's briefly go over what we know about the trunks. First, they tend thin out closer to the crown. Therefore, the top diameter will be smaller than the bottom diameter of the cut.

And for even laying preferably cylindrical rather than cone-shaped. Therefore, of the three types of trunk processing - rounding, planing And scraping, we get the most equal only in the first case, the minimum - in the third, and the second - something in between.

In this case, the cylindering is given cheaper everything, as it is produced on machine tools, and the rest is associated with manual labor. Manual labor is more expensive than machine labor. But is a rounded log ideal during operation?

There is nothing wrong with the operation itself, and it gives a form that is ideal for construction.

IMPORTANT only that the wood itself does not have defects and is properly dried. In this case, everything will be fine.

Planed option has one nuance: after all, when laying logs in a wall, one should adhere to the Gostov rule, according to which for each running meter a taper of 1 cm is allowed. (Let us explain: taper is a change in diameter.)

At scraped there is no need to wait for the option of complying with GOST in terms of fluency. Yes, and all the flaws remain there - changes in thickness are possible in places where branches grow, and the curvature of the trunk is also not eliminated.

It is clear that the first and second options should be preferred, but not the third.

Now about homogeneity logs. There is also a rule for this:

ATTENTION! The permissible difference in the diameters of crowns used in construction should not exceed 30 mm.

That is, it does not matter if your diameters are large or small, the main thing is that they do not differ much from each other. Otherwise strength structures will be questionable.

As for the dimensions, the linear dimensions depend on project and from climatic conditions of the area where the bath will be. It should also be taken into account seasonality its use - thinner logs will fit for a summer bath than for an all-weather one.

If the task is to do very light summer building- you need to take the material with a diameter up to 18 cm. And it is also useful in all-season baths to create partitions.

More solid summer(!) bath can be made of logs with a diameter 18-22 cm.

For all-season bath suitable diameters from 22 to 28 cm. Large numbers are applicable where we are talking about objects of a large area or climatic zones with very low temperatures, there can be logs up to 36 cm in diameter (at -45 degrees, that's it).

How many pieces do you need

There is nothing difficult in the task of calculating how many logs you need for a bath. Let's describe the solution step by step:

1. We look at the plan () and write out the lengths of all the walls. If you take a smaller diameter for the partition, then count the partitions separately.
2. Add up the lengths of the walls. The resulting figure is the total length of one conditional crown.
3. Decide what diameter the logs will be.
4. The height of the bath is included in the project. Divide the height by the diameter of one crown. The resulting figure is the number of crowns.
5. We multiply the length of the conditional crown by the number of crowns. We get the total length of all logs.
6. The length of one standard rounded log is 6 meters. Divide the resulting length of all logs by the length of one log. The final figure is the amount of material to be purchased.
7. Gables are considered in a similar way.

Bath from large and huge logs

Baths from large and huge logs, we would refer to design projects. Because there is clearly not so much a construction need as aesthetic preference. The owner of such a bath obviously likes fabulous, epic times when heroes walked the earth 🙂 And indeed the building will inspire just such feelings, even if we are talking about a bath.

Note, our opinion is that this idea has little functional meaning and often causes critical reviews, due to the inappropriate destruction of valuable ancient trees.

It would be nice if the project was done by a professional, because it is he who will have to find the ideal ratio between the dimensions of the bath itself and the diameter of the logs. Because not grotesque proportions are sweet to the eye.

A tree from which crowns with a diameter of more than 30 cm are made must grow for three hundred years, no less. Such logs for a bath need to be selected piece, sometimes designers deliberately use barrels without rounding - this enhances the feeling of antiquity and fabulousness. However, laying them in a log house will require great skill from the builders. In most cases, the choice is between cedar And larch.

In general, this is a wonderful and expensive undertaking, which is worth implementing on a large plot with a good landscape design. Or better yet, maybe not at all.

lower crown

Of course, in one article the specifics wooden construction it is unlikely that it will be possible to somehow reveal it, but the fact that the lower log in the bathhouse differs from subsequent logs is worth mentioning.

• First, it is made by several more all other crowns in the log house.
• Secondly, it does not have a completely round shape in cross section. In order to have a complete fit to the foundation, it is cut off from below edging, whose width must not be less than 15-20 cm. The second edging is cut from the inside of the room and has similar dimensions.

Outside, the crown is desirable to protect low tide, which will not allow moisture precipitation to fall on it.

Treatment inside the bath

The log house needs protection from all sides, but from the outside it is simpler, more precisely, there are simply no restrictions that operate inside, since we are talking about a bath. The fact is that the compounds that should be used for processing are often poisonous, especially for antiseptic impregnations. And the bath is hot and humid, so the substances with which the logs are impregnated will enter the air that you breathe, which surrounds your skin.

Therefore, now we will only talk about the permissible processing of logs inside the bath. However, it will vary depending on the location. So for a dressing room or hallway there are no restrictions on the use of poisonous antiseptics. The rest room can also be processed by them.

ADVICE! Choosing an antiseptic for internal works, check with the seller or Google that we are talking about a bath.

IN washing you should use formulations that are not afraid of water, and most antiseptics are water-soluble.

IN steam room you can use bleach based on bleach - it will lighten the surface of the wood and serve. You can use the steam room only after the smell of bleach has disappeared.

In the future, you can do a simple moisture protection, because mold settles on wet wood. For moisture protection, use compositions based on oil and / or wax, or Finnish acrylic varnishes for the sauna, to which they add antiseptics acceptable for the steam room.

Seams can be filled sealant for wood, and the very surface of the logs is simply grind, to reveal a beautiful "moiré" texture. Painting is acceptable almost everywhere, but in the steam room you should use only those paints that are intended for it. In the sink, paints suitable for bathrooms will do. About the paints for the bath with us.

What to caulk

The idea of ​​caulking a bath from logs suggests that not all bath owners are familiar with modern means of sealing joints (or do not consider them the best). Traditional the methods, of course, are time-tested, but they are very laborious and require periodic labor-intensive renewal, since the log house is constantly slowly changing its dimensions during the first 20 years of life.

Concerning materials, then it is usually used for caulking moss, tow, jute and linen. However, below we will provide a link to the video of the master, who categorically does not advise caulking with jute, because it picks up moisture well. He considers lnovatin to be the optimal material. Moss is traditional, but not common everywhere.

Tow It happens different quality. The one that is worse has inclusions of all sorts of straw. Masters also do not recommend using it, because part of it will crumble over time. Linen tow good quality- excellent material for caulking.

Lnovatin- a quilted cloth, somewhat reminiscent of jute, but differing from it in quality. It is convenient for work and is not inferior to tow in terms of heat-insulating properties.

Own bath in the courtyard of a private house or is the dream of many owners of suburban areas. Everyone knows that the bath serves as a place not only for regular washing, but also for wellness procedures - healing steam cleanses the pores, improves blood circulation and gives vitality. In addition, there is a tradition that this particular building often turns into a kind of “club”, where you can have such a great time with friends or relatives.

Therefore, before the owners planning to create such a useful “complex”, the question inevitably arises - what is better to build a bath from, so that it can be created and maintained an optimal microclimate at any time of the year and at no extra cost. The choice of material directly affects the creation of a healthy, relaxing bath atmosphere.

In addition, the right material is the key to the durability of this structure. It is imperative to take into account the fact that the inner surfaces of the walls will be constantly exposed to moist hot air and temperature changes.

The modern market offers a wide variety of different building materials suitable for building walls for houses, utility, utility and other specific buildings. However, it is worth considering in more detail and figuring out which one is ideal for a bath.