Rating of knives for survival in extreme conditions. DIY homemade knife Blade length - how long should a survival knife be

People who view the world negatively have some advantages. For example, they are always ready for some life problems, at least morally. And in order to be physically ready for such things, you will need to stock up or make some things with your own hands. For example, you can make yourself such a simple survival knife. It is durable, strong, it can be cut, chopped, and, if necessary, used as a spearhead.

The main requirement for such knives is their reliability. Therefore, in most cases, knives are made without finishing the handle, that is, this is an all-metal product. In this homemade product, the author decided to make small pads on the handle. But even if they are damaged, the knife will continue to function.

Materials and tools for homemade:
- a source of steel with a high carbon content (usually used in tools);
- wood for the manufacture of overlays for handles and pins;
- drill with drills (better drilling machine);
- grinder with cutting and grinding wheels;
- clamps;
- electric grinder;
- files;
- sandpaper with a grain size of 80 to 600;
- epoxy;
- Furnace for hardening and automotive testing.
It would be nice to have a tape grinding machine.

Knife making process:

Step one. Cut out the workpiece
We start making a knife with a template. You can draw it on paper and then cut it out. The author simply drew the profile of his knife on a piece of metal. Well, then we gain patience and slowly cut out the profile. It is not difficult to do this work with a grinder, but it will turn out faster if you have a tape cutting machine. In the most extreme case, some craftsmen cut out the profile with a hand saw, however, before that, the metal is usually released.
Then using a sharpener, grind off burrs and other irregularities.

Step two. We cut cloves
The serrations on a survival knife simply have to be, they can crush something, saw it, and so on. First, mark them with a felt-tip pen, and then clamp the workpiece in a vise. Teeth can be cut with a grinder.

Step three. We form bevels on the knife
The bevels on the knife are responsible for its cutting data. For a survival knife, the blade must be strong so that it can cut, crush, and, well, it must cut well. In this regard, the bevel is made small so that the blade is moderately thick.

An interesting fact is that the author forms the bevels with the help of an ordinary grinder and a grinding disc. Clamp the blade in a vise and get to work. If you have a good eye, you can even not mark anything. But it is best to pre-mark the blade. Draw a line to indicate the width of the bevel. Also draw a centering line along the length of the blade to separate it into two halves. This will allow you to evenly grind the bevel on each side.

After the rough formation of the bevel with a grinder, you can proceed to the final processing manually. Here you will need a set of files and sandpaper. Make the bevels symmetrical and sharpen the knife. But do not sharpen the blade too much, as when hardening thin metal, it overheats greatly. The author makes the tip of the knife sharp so that they can pick something up, unscrew it, and so on.

Step four. knife grinding
At this step, the author cleans the workpiece before hardening. There was a lot of rust and other contaminants on the metal. To work, you will need a manual grinding machine, you can also use a stationary one. tape machine, if available. If you don’t have a power tool, don’t worry, the metal can be processed manually.

First, the knife is roughly sanded with 80 grit sandpaper, then 300 and 400 grit, and at the very end it is processed with 600 grit sandpaper.

Step five. Drilling holes for pins
To install the handle pads, you will need a drilling machine or hand drill. This work must be carried out before hardening, since once the metal is hardened, it will be very difficult for you to drill through it. In total, at least two holes need to be drilled under the pins, the author decided to make three, since this is still a survival knife, everything must be strong. Also, at the end of the handle, the author drilled three more holes just in case. With the help of them you can tie a knife, if necessary.

Step six. hardening
To harden the knife, you will need an oven. You can get a good temperature in ordinary coals, you just need forced filing air, which can be done with an ordinary household hair dryer.
I note right away that only steels with a high carbon content are suitable for hardening.

We heat the metal until it completely ceases to be attracted by the magnet. It should be bright yellow in color. It is important that the metal is heated evenly. Well, then we lower the metal into mining or into vegetable oil. Be careful, as the oil splatters and usually catches fire, it also produces a lot of smoke.

After hardening, a vacation must necessarily follow, this step should not be neglected. You will need a household oven, preheat it to 200 degrees Celsius and put the knife in for an hour. Let the oven cool down with the knife. Everything, now the steel will not be brittle, it will become elastic and the knife will not break when it hits the ground, stone, and so on.

Step seven. Metal cleaning
After hardening, the metal will have a lot of burnt oil, scale and other contaminants. You have to clean them well with sandpaper. Simplifies this process WD-40. Take a coarse sandpaper and use it to sand the part where the handle pads will be located. This is to ensure that the epoxy adheres well to the metal.

Step eight. Making a pen
The author makes overlays for the handle from wood. Attach the blade to the wood and circle around the handle area. Cut out two overlays. Next comes the grinding process. To polish all the bends well, make yourself a sandpaper nozzle on your drill, like the author’s. In addition, you may need files, sandpaper. Make the grips smooth.

It was decided to use steel screws as pins. It's simple and reliable. Drill holes in the pads and insert the bolts. With some margin, then cut off the excess.

Step nine. Assembling the knife
The knife is almost ready, it remains for us to glue the lining, make the final polishing, and also sharpen the knife.

A knife, despite its usefulness and importance for a person, is a very simple device that has a standard design and, it would seem, is of the same type. But in fact, now there is a very large number of different knives that differ in functionality, principle of use, appearance and so on. There are a lot of varieties of knives now, each of them is used in a different sphere of human activity, but one of the most necessary and versatile is considered a survival knife.

The survival knife is a clumsy knife that is versatile and has multiple functions. Very often these knives have accessories, for example, sets hand tool, which are hidden in the knife handle or special pockets. Such knives are necessary for tourist trips, fishing, hunting and so on. The peculiarity of a survival knife is that, even if you have nothing but a knife at hand, you can use it to perform a lot of different tasks. Despite the complexity of the design, to make DIY survival knives it is quite possible that this will help save money on the purchase of a device and achieve really good quality products.

To some extent, we can conclude that survival knives are a device that combines a combat knife and additional tools. In addition to a set of hand tools, a survival knife may contain a sharpening block, a small blade, a signal mirror, an impromptu fishing hook, an opener, and so on. As already mentioned, a survival knife is a multifunctional device and it can be used for various purposes, in particular:

for self-defense;
for cooking and obtaining food;
for the arrangement of the field camp;
to provide medical care;
for making a fire;
for cutting clothes and so on.

Fortunately, in order to acquire such a device, you do not need to spend a lot of money on its purchase, since, as already indicated, to make DIY survival knife It's pretty simple and anyone can do it. The main thing is to make a knife correctly, taking into account all standards and requirements.

How to make a survival knife

Do DIY survival knife now every fan of extreme conditions, as well as a simple connoisseur of functional things, can. Moreover, such a knife can be made, as in adapted conditions, with all necessary materials and tools, as well as field conditions from improvised means. In order to make a survival knife in adapted conditions, you will need the following items:

blank for the blade and knife handle;
file or grinder with a grinding wheel;
hacksaw for metal;
metal for rivets, copper rods are suitable;
sandpaper.

That is, the items necessary for making a knife are quite common and any person can easily find them. An automobile spring or a file is ideal for blanking the blade. Taking the workpiece, it is necessary to draw on it with a pencil the outlines of the future knife blade, and make several holes around the perimeter. As for the handle, before starting to give it a certain shape, it is necessary to drill holes for the rivets, as this will simplify the process of sawing the handle. After that, you can give both blanks the desired shape, for this you can use a file. Survival knives video will help you figure out how to properly cut blanks for a future knife.

On the finished workpiece, it is necessary to outline the cutting edge and start grinding the edges to sharpness with a flat file, in order to do this conveniently and safely, it is recommended to fix the workpiece in a vice. After completing the cutting part, the knife blade must be processed with sandpaper. Everyone knows that in order for the metal to be strong and reliable, it needs to be hardened, so the made knife blade must be put on the coals and wait 10-15 minutes until the metal heats up. It is necessary to check the sufficient level of hardening with a magnet, since the heated metal is not magnetized. After sufficient heating has been achieved, it is necessary to cool the knife with oil. But that's not all, in order to give the knife blade strength and stability, the workpiece must be placed in the oven for 40 minutes, setting the temperature to 300-400 0 C. After that, the workpiece should cool naturally, you can see how this procedure takes place on survival knife video. The procedure for baking the workpiece in the oven must be repeated twice. After double baking and complete cooling, the blade of the knife must be sanded clean, and then blued, this will protect the blade from corrosion. The last step in the manufacture of a survival knife is the undercutting of the handle, and the connection of two elements into one integral knife. With the right manufacturing technology, a survival knife will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Making a knife for survival in the field

Even making a knife for survival in the field from improvised means, you can achieve a very good result, the main thing is to perform this procedure correctly. The first thing to do in order to make a survival knife is to pick up a suitable piece of stone. A piece of stone for the future knife should be small and conveniently fixed to the hand. If a fragment right size not found, you can split a large stone on another stone. The stones with glossy fragments are considered the most ideal, since they are considered the hardest and most reliable. You can sharpen a stone with a bone, for this you need to turn the sharp edge of the bone in the direction of sharpening with pressure. For a more convenient sharpening procedure, it is recommended to place the stone on a soft and elastic surface, for example, tree bark is suitable. It is necessary to sharpen only one side of the stone, this will further contribute to the safe and convenient operation of the knife. But, even observing the technology for making a knife for survival in the field, you need to remember that it will last not so long, because over time the stone will become dull, and a new device will need to be made.

Considering all of the above, it can be concluded that DIY survival knives it is quite possible to do this and it can be done without special skills. By making such a device yourself, you can be sure that it is really of high quality and made in accordance with all the rules. Moreover, independent production a knife will help you save a lot of money, since quality survival knives are now quite a lot.

T-L7 01-06-2005 13:03

Hello. Can anyone tell me how best to fix the blade in a tubular hollow handle? So that it is reliable and there is enough space for all sorts of little things. What is the best material for the handle? Has anyone seen the famous models of such knives in the section? Naturally, in the pictures ... I would be grateful for any information and links.

Joe 01-06-2005 13:15

1. A nut with a washer.
2. From titanium.
3. Why cut them? And so everything is clear.

Joe 01-06-2005 13:17

Shl Nut where the thread is 13 no less. Although good welding is more reliable, and there is more space in the cavity.

Varnas 01-06-2005 13:47

Well, again, a fetish with hollow handles. And the handle is uncomfortable and the blade is a problem to fix. Is it possible to make a pocket on the scabbard?

PitBull666 01-06-2005 13:51

I agree with Varnas. Any NAZ must be carried in pockets. And on a survival knife there should be a comfortable handle, if your hand slips off and you won’t survive. It'll be a shame

Bonifatich 01-06-2005 14:05

In vain you are so men. The hollow handle is cool, some of the medicines, fishing line, fishing hook, matches, etc. And if you "fell in love", then all at once The whole set of survival

Joe 01-06-2005 14:07

Well, a person wants. Has the right to.
2 PitBull666
And what are survival knives without guards (stops)? Castrated Russian law does not count.

GFO 01-06-2005 14:11

2 PitBull666
And what are survival knives without guards (stops)? Castrated Russian law does not count.

I'm not PitBull666 but if you make a Chris Reeve crowbar-style hollow handle, you'll have no guard.

Varnas 01-06-2005 15:20

The hollow handle is cool, some of the medicines, fishing line, fishing hook, matches, etc.
..........................................
And what about in a backpack there is not enough space? On the edge, he put it in a plastic bag and on a scabbard in a pocket. You can even wrap it with duct tape. In general, even Rimbaud, when escaping, grabbed can in a sheath

Joe 01-06-2005 15:21

2 GFOs
Tubular? And the link mona?

Joe 01-06-2005 15:22

2 GFOs
Tubular? Like the Aitors, for example? And the link mona?

Bonifatich 01-06-2005 15:53

Good crowbars, but painfully expensive!

BigMonster 01-06-2005 15:58

I agree, overpriced.

Joe 01-06-2005 16:21

Nah, not good. A survival knife cannot be without good stops IMHO, because. it should not have any kind of traumatic handle. And izgolyatstsa on this subject can be on everyone. What would the Americans say if they were offered Ka-Bars in Vietnam without emphasis? Go stick it in?

GFO 01-06-2005 16:32

By the way, these crowbars are positioned as combat.

BigMonster 01-06-2005 16:42

Meanwhile, we have this XO knife, therefore it sticks without problems

GFO 01-06-2005 16:43

quote: Originally posted by BigMonster:
Meanwhile, we have this XO knife, therefore it sticks without problems

oh you never know what we have XO :-)

Joe 01-06-2005 16:54

quote: Originally posted by GFO:
By the way, these crowbars are positioned as combat.

BigMonster 01-06-2005 16:55

I mean that before referring this specimen to CW, it was stuck into something similar in structure to a biological object. Therefore - stuck!

GFO 01-06-2005 17:04

quote: Originally posted by Joe:
And we have crowbars without stops like tourist or cutting knives Gyyyyyy .........

Scrap with a subfinger notch of more than 5 mm - cold scrap

Joe 01-06-2005 17:53

Where did I say about 5 mm?

T-L7 01-06-2005 19:58

How funny they all are ... No, to answer the question of an inexperienced colleague without jokes, jokes ... I'm not going to the taiga or the jungle with this topic. And I agree with everyone about the scabbard. But for the sake of creativity, you can try. then! If anyone has something on the case, write.

GFO 01-06-2005 23:17

The ancestor of Rendall 18 is described in relatively detail in the Ditmar field "combat knives" IMHO without a milling cutter above the handle with a protrusion a la Japanese habaki and riveting in the wide part of the shank. Yes, and as Joe said, the washer is wider and the nut is snug.

Butch 01-06-2005 23:40

I would donate a little volume of the handle and make a shank for through installation - that is, fixing with a nut near the guard and a wound butt plate on the opposite side of the handle. Put corrugated rubber on the metal tube of the handle.

BigMonster 02-06-2005 13:46

Exactly! There are practically no options - a short shank of maximum diameter with a nut and a handle - a hollow metal cylinder.

Siberian 2 02-06-2005 19:39

quote: Originally posted by T-L7:
Hello. Can anyone tell me how best to fix the blade in a tubular hollow handle? So that it is reliable and there is enough space for all sorts of little things. What is the best material for the handle? Has anyone seen the famous models of such knives in the section? Naturally, in the pictures ... I would be grateful for any information and links.

when we were boys, we made handles for knives simply by winding melted plastic (you can choose any color by color), then we simply turned and polished. it turned out solid and beautiful. this recipe might come in handy.

Butch 02-06-2005 20:39

I did it once in my childhood - such p / e handles loosen up and fall off, unless you rivet them on the shank, there is no gut.

Siberian 2 02-06-2005 20:56

the knives are still in service. such handles were made specifically for throwing knives. Until now, I have not seen stronger pens. took gaskets from under the rail. the result was a shiny pure black polished handle. the only negative in a sweaty hand can slip.

Butch 02-06-2005 21:06

Current where to add NAZ tama?

Siberian 2 02-06-2005 21:55

what is NAZ?

Butch 02-06-2005 22:01

Wearable Emergency Supply, implied by the author of the topic, in relation to the planned knife, sorry, survival

SergeyiCh 02-06-2005 22:28

in the pocket of the NAZ scabbard.
neh knife to spoil the hollow handles. this reduces the strength, and the grip, as a rule, suffers, and the volume under the NAZ is too small, and unnecessary details appear.

Butch 02-06-2005 22:40

"Well, a person wants. He has the right." (c) Joe
The author of the top is interested in the possible the best option designs of exactly the variant with a hollow handle, returning to the origins however ...

13mm 03-06-2005 09:31

What did you get up to the hollow handle? In a survival knife, it is not only for storing toothpicks or condoms, but so that the handle can be put on a suitable stick and used as a spear or harpoon (by the way, the teeth on the butt are for this) .. Yes, and under the bark of some trees there is a layer that can also be used as a binding material.

Siberian 2 03-06-2005 11:59

Are you going to play Indians? I know good game you leave for a strange city without money and documents and try to survive .. play the game well.

GFO 03-06-2005 13:06

Fuck those games. I know for myself.

Nooki 03-06-2005 13:58

quote: Originally posted by Siberian 2:
Are you going to play Indians? I know a good game, you leave for a foreign city without money and documents and try to survive .. play the game well.

ugh, the game is really interesting... it just takes a lot of time, health, strength... if you win, and if you lose?!
PS, too, I know from experience!

In this article we will talk about making a homemade knife. The article dealt with the manufacture of a knife using forging, this time the manufacturing process is much simpler, only metal and woodworking are used. And it can be done with the help of an ordinary file, however, if you have access to grinder or a grinder, the manufacturing process develops much faster.

Do not look at the fact that in the article we are talking about making a homemade chef's knife, using this technology you can easily make a homemade scout knife, a classic criminal finca or, say, . Just be aware! The manufacture of knives can be classified as the manufacture of edged weapons and punished by an article of the criminal code!

I got tired of constantly sharpening my Brazilian stainless steel knives while cooking, and I caught fire under New Year, arrange a gift for yourself in the form of a good knife. I got into tyrnets to look for where I could buy one, found a couple of offers, more or less, but still not quite right. Either the shape or the dimensions did not quite correspond to my wishes. Even the price did not play a special role, in the region of 10 k I could spend it, then a gift to my beloved. Yes, and my wife said, you need, look and order, I don’t mind at all. There was an option to order, with its own sizes and shapes. But at work, two of my colleagues began to master this craft in the same way, though they buy ready-made blades, and there they already conjure with handles, and their blades are too small for me at all. But they advised me one steel, x12mf, they said look for it, strong, tough. And rushed.

Having studied the properties of this steel, having read many articles and reviews, it was decided to look for a knife from it. And when I came across the video...

so generally an awl in the ass began to play. And then my colleagues bring a piece of such steel. Rolling true. But she. Having estimated the state of my arsenal of tools, the prices of the original parts, and the curvature of my hands, I decided that I would make myself a knife, the one that I needed.

It was not always possible to take a picture of all the stages, but for the most part, all processes are displayed. For the pictures, too, do not kick too much. All in different places, with different lighting and in different weather. The piece was declared as 4 mm thick, 40 wide, but took 35 cm in length, somewhere 20-22 cm for the blade, and 12-13 for the handle, but with a width of the jamb it turned out to be only 35 mm, but oh well. Then we will make a knife with a wide blade, in the summer, when it will be possible to unforge steel))) We draw either by hand or on a computer, the contours of our future knife and cut out of paper like a pattern. We apply steel to the canvas, and paint over everything that needs to be removed from the canvas with a black marker. We go to the machine and fuck. Here is the finished cutting edge. Here I have already roughly outlined the boundaries of the slopes, and began to draw them out slowly.

With the help of such a not tricky device, I made descents. This is the hardest and longest part. I melted 2 buckets of snow))) you need to cool the metal, otherwise we will overheat.

After the painful manufacture of descents, we draw the upper boundaries of the knife, that is, butt.

And we already get something similar to a knife. And with the help of that bar, very rough, we bring the descents and bring the cutting edge to the draft. Well, I walked a bit with the skin, see how it turns out.

The next step was preparing the handle. I asked the guys for a piece of red bourgeois walnut, not for free, of course. Here it is already cut into 3 parts. I thought for a long time what kind of pen to make, I wanted a cupronickel tip, but I couldn’t find a solid piece of cupronickel, only the casting was thin, but somehow it was not very suitable for my purposes. And I decided to make it purely from wood, but from 3 pieces, like a guard and a wooden handle. Yes, and holes are easier to make in small pieces. And from the blank of the knife we remove everything superfluous with a grinder and emery. In parallel, I also sanded the blade a little. It turned out crumpled, I did it in the evenings and at nights. Whatever he had time for, he did.

We mark the pieces of wood, and drill and clean the holes to put on the shank. I didn’t make it out of halves, I don’t like rivets, extra bridges, slack handles. Yes, and in cold weather, they will burn the hand with frost.

There are no photos of the device, I will describe it this way, a skin is glued to a flat board on a 2-sided adhesive tape, and with it we adjust our pieces of wood to each other so that there are no gaps between them. So dressing and taking off every time on the shank. and remove these gaps.

After all the dances with a tambourine, we wrap the blade with electrical tape completely so that the glue does not get in, dilute the epoxy according to the instructions and proceed.

We collect our future handle together with a knife. I tied it with a rope, tightening it with the help of improvised means, there are no pictures ((But if you find a large clamp, then it will be easier for you.

And after a day, intended for the glue to harden, we begin to process the handle. I sawed off everything superfluous from the top of the handle with a small margin for further processing. Marked the axis of symmetry and from it already the future edges of the handle. And he began to saw off everything superfluous.

The tree is dense, it is sawn with a hacksaw for a long time, but the main thing is sawn)) and quite evenly.

Having sawed off everything superfluous on the sides, we mark the contours of the future handle. And saw off everything from the bottom.

we leave a little for further processing, in this case it is better not to finish it than to cut it.

Thanks to my labor teacher for not drinking but teaching us, and taught us to communicate with different files))) We grind everything further with rough and not very files.

We round the edges of the handle, already with small files, and with a rough sandpaper. It’s good that my wife was already asleep and didn’t see a layer of sawdust))) but I lined everything with newspapers. and then wiped the floor with a wet cloth)) cleanliness is the key to success.

We skin both the handle and the blade, leveling all surfaces. Sanded in any free time, and at work and at home.

Well, then we take a piece of an old felt boot and make such a device: a bolt, a large washer, a felt circle, a large washer, a nut. You can lock it with one more nut. By the way, taking a circle of skins and putting it on the outside of the felt, you can polish the product)))

After all the polishing, we apply goy paste on the felt disk, and grind the blade, I was already too lazy to bring it to the mirror, and I don’t really need this mirror. Yes, and there was no drill at hand, only a screwdriver, and it does not give such high speeds necessary for better removal.

And after the blade, we take another clean disk, and with it we clean the whole tree from dust and chips. According to the correct course, at first it was necessary to bring the blade completely to a shine. And then to deal with the pen, but I repeat, I was limited in time different conditions and did everything at once. Having studied a bunch of impregnations, I decided to impregnate in the ancient way, albeit a long one, but reliable. I bought a couple of bottles of artistic linseed oil. Since the handle is quite large and long, I had to buy a jar of some filth. We take a small saucepan, gauze or a rag on the bottom, an opened jar on a rag. Pour oil into the jar, water into the pan, do not confuse.

We heat the oil to 60-70 degrees, no more, epoxy does not really like high temperatures, again we wrap the blade a little with electrical tape so as not to stain it, and lower our handle into it. And we observe how small air bubbles stand out from the tree. When the bubbles stop, take it out and wipe it with a napkin. This procedure took me about an hour, with several heatings of the oil.

Lay the knife down on the windowsill Sun rays, we need ultraviolet light to polymerize the oil. But I wiped it a couple of times with a napkin with oil until the oil stopped absorbing at all. Do not forget to turn it over on the windowsill every day so that the oil polymerizes on all sides. And in the evenings we sharpen. Here I will not describe everything in detail, one more topic is enough, theories of knife sharpening. Yes, and I haven’t quite mastered it yet)) I’m still learning.

In the meantime, the oil dries, and the blade is sharpened, we will make a camping option out of our chef, we will make a sheath for it. I often go out into the countryside, and cook there, and I have to take my Brazilian stainless steel knives, twisting them around, and putting them neatly in my backpack so that I don’t hurt my hand if I need to get something, and I don’t pierce the backpack with a point. In general, hemorrhoids are still the same. And I decided, since the width of the blade is not ideal for me, then we will make a camping version out of it, I will make another one for the house. True, my wife will probably shoot me)) Well, that's another question. Again we turn to our colleagues, and take from them another small piece of wood. I decided to make everything from one tree. and handle and scabbard. Again, we figure out on a piece of paper how it will look, and what pieces it will consist of. We mark the bar, and cut into pieces. By this time I had rented from my brother grinder, which grinds the skin. And with this miracle device we bring the joints of the trees according to the plan into a more or less decent condition. That is, to fit exactly. No big gaps. Here at the next stage, my patience snapped. We drill a hole under the knife in each piece, I fiddled with it for a very long time, and the desire to finish everything as soon as possible was already great, and because of this, I hastily glued these pieces in the night without fitting the joints well. As a result, in one place a jamb surfaced later. But certainly not critical. Yes, and I glued it on Friday night, but there was a desire to completely process the rest for the exhaust. And you still have to wait for days. and did not postpone and pasted.

I glued it with reinforcement, by the way, so that under transverse loads, it would not fall apart in the places of gluing. Reinforced with thin metal studs. 2 studs in each joint. Well, after the glue dries, we go to the garage, take a miracle grinder, and remove all unnecessary with its help. And we return to felt devices, take different skins for reduction and grind them to the maximum smoothness, and then clean them with clean felt. I decided to impregnate the scabbard in a cold way. True, he poured hot inside, there were particles of wax inside, and it was necessary to melt them, and soaked the outer part for a week, applying a small layer every day. In the first impregnation, of course, I applied layers for an hour until it ceased to be absorbed. Well, to their knife. On the windowsill. Turning constantly.

After the knife and sheath have dried out, and the oil has polymerized, albeit not completely, then more will come. We are preparing the composition for finishing. We take beeswax and our linseed oil in proportions somewhere around 2 parts of oil and 1 part of wax, but by eye, I might not have stood it evenly, but after reading the cooking recipes before that, I realized that there are no exact proportions, you want 1/3 you want 1/4, but you want pure wax process. There was an opportunity to process it with carnauba wax, but I decided to make it from our bee wax. In a water bath, melt the wax in the oil until smooth.

My task was a knife with which you can cut and butcher meat, and so that it retains its sharpness after that. I love tomatoes with meat dishes, and it’s bad to cut them with a blunt knife. I can say that the task is carried out with a bang. Brazilians can't do that. The knife, of course, turned out to be not perfect, there are a couple of jambs on the slopes, a couple of jambs on the sheath, but all these jambs are mostly aesthetic nitpicking, and do not affect practical application in any way. And I think it's forgivable for the first time)) Well, another small remark: the budget. a piece of steel - 300 rubles. wood for the handle and scabbard - 500 rubles (of course, a board of such a tree costs 5 rubles, but it is 2 meters, and I used 15-20 cm from the board in total) skin - about 500 rubles. linseed oil - 200 rubles. 1500 are further acquisitions for the knife, which remained at my disposal for the rest of my life, so it is difficult to consider them as the cost of the knife. files, needle files, and all sorts of little things about 1k ruble ordinary sharpening bars - 150 rubles diamond bar 1.5 k. vise small 300 rubles total about 4.5 rubles. Of course, it was possible to find a ready-made knife at such a cost, but to be left without such nishtyaks as a diamond bar. which then would have to buy anyway. Everyone, you can drink.

Text author kadiko

Gobly comments:

Cool knife!

Vaso comments:

a small correction - the oil does not polymerize on the windowsill. glass does not pass ultraviolet radiation. the knife is really cool. respect.

VaDim

Among the universal items that a person may need in extreme conditions, applies knife to survival. As a rule, it performs several important functions. Often such a knife comes in a set of emergency emergency stock or NAZ. It is difficult to use it in everyday life, since it is not designed to perform such tasks. But such a tool becomes a good helper if a person finds himself in a forest or other place far from civilization.

Initially, survival knives were called army knives. They were created back in the 60s specifically for military pilots who served in Vietnam. These tools were distinguished by a rather weighty handle and saw. The last element was located on the end part. The saw allowed pilots to do without other weapons while in the impenetrable jungle.

Survival knives gained the greatest popularity in America after the release of the legendary film Rambo. For a long time developed modern design edged weapons that meets all the stated requirements. These models are in great demand today.

Advantages and features of such knives

Survival knives are very convenient for extreme tourists

Knives of this type have certain advantages over other edged weapons that may be at the disposal of a person. This is a universal tool that can greatly facilitate the life of its owner if he finds himself in difficult conditions.

The main feature of survival knives is that they can perform several important tasks at once.

Survival knives can be used in the process of carrying out the following actions:

Repair or complete construction of a temporary shelter. The knife is used during cutting branches, digging holes and processing turf, which is required for a hut.
Extraction and preparation of food. The tool allows you to increase the chances of a successful hunt and helps to properly butcher the carcass of an animal.
Self-defense. In this case, it is used as a military weapon.
Create weapons or tools out of wood, metal, or bone.
Breeding fire.
Creation and repair of clothes. In this case, the knife is used when cutting the skin or any fabric. Additionally, a needle is used, which is in the NAZ set.

A survival knife can also help you navigate the terrain, as it often has a built-in compass.

What is included in NAZ (emergency emergency stock)

The compass is indispensable for orientation in unfamiliar terrain

Standard knives that are used for survival and have NAZ are quite large in size. They can be recognized by their wide blade and massive handle. The handle is usually hollow. It is in it that the traditional set of emergency supplies is located. It consists of the following items:

Several matches that are pre-lubricated with wax. The complex comes with a grater for ignition. These components must be packed in moisture-proof packaging.
A lens designed for use in sunny weather.
Compass. This is not the most convenient item that comes with NAZ. But from him there is always a sense at the moment a person is in the forest zone.
Fishing line about 3-5 m in size, several hooks, as well as a sinker.
Sewing needle with ordinary thread and surgical needle with kapron thread.
Scalpel.
Safety pin.
Small tweezers and adhesive tape. These items will help to provide a person with first aid in case of injury.

The set should also contain a small mirror, a water purification tablet, a small whistle and potassium permanganate. It is supplemented with a piece of sandpaper, which helps to sharpen the knife in the field.

How to choose a knife

Every person who periodically goes hiking knows that you should definitely take a knife with you. It is the most important item in your travel gear. That is why its choice must be approached with special care.

When choosing a good survival knife, be sure to pay attention to its convenience, functionality, reliability and other factors of suitability for use in the field.

First of all, it is desirable to decide on the tool system. Folding knives are considered more convenient to carry, as they are small and take up minimal space. However, most often preference is given to non-folding weapons for survival, as it allows you to perform many times more tasks.

Blade shape

The shape of the blade of such knives can have a different modification.

Knives for squeezing differ from each other in the shape of the blade. According to this feature, a whole classification of weapons stands out. The most popular are the tools of the following forms:

spear-shaped;
straight form with a butt;
with a concave blade;
butt with a falling or rising line;
American tanto.

More convenient are knives that have a spear shape. They are called universal. Most often, such weapons are chosen by people who are fond of hunting.

Shank

The best survival knives have a strong tang. It comes in different sizes and shapes.

The shank is an integral part of the blade that remains hidden in the handle of the weapon.

Allocate different types shank of knives. They are presented in the table.

Type	general characteristics
"Mouse tail"	This type of shank is made of a metal rod. It runs in a thin layer along the entire handle. In this case, the rod is a continuation of the blade. This shank has one significant drawback. Since it is too thin, it can easily break due to the high load. Therefore, knives with it are not intended for use in the field.
Not fully hidden shank	The shank does not go through the entire handle, as in the previous version. It is only in its separate part. The void zone is used for completely different purposes. It is in it that survival kits are hidden. Since the shank does not go through the entire part of the handle, it can also easily break under the pressure of an increased load. This point must be taken into account by the person who collects the basic equipment for the trip.
full shank	This shank runs through the entire handle. It is considered the largest in size. This feature provides high strength and resistance of the tool to increased loads. Knives with such shanks are considered the most practical and useful in the field.

It is imperative to pay attention to the type of shank of a survival knife, since its strength and effectiveness in performing tasks depend on it.

Material

The handle of a survival knife can be: wooden, plastic, rubber or other material and composition

The best knives are made from steel. It should not be too hard, but not soft either. In this regard, you need to maintain the golden mean. It is this material that is considered the most practical in use.

The most profitable option is a knife made of medium hardness steel 58-50 HCR. It meets the basic requirements for the choice of material from which survival tools must be made.

Blades of medium hardness can be easily sharpened properly. And it often becomes necessary if the owner has to regularly use his knife for its intended purpose.

Separately, it is worth considering the materials that are used in the manufacturing process of the knife handle. It can be made from plastic, horn, bone, wood, or high-tech raw materials. The latter are considered more durable and practical, as they are produced according to modern standards. When choosing a handle, you need to pay attention not only to the type of material, but also to its comfortable position in the hand.

Additional options

Most of the models that made it into the ranking of the best survival knives have additional options. For the convenience of the user, they are equipped with a flint and a sharpener. Might come with a lighter. As a rule, these and other items are part of the NAZ set. The Russian version of these tools also provides for a number of similar additions that survivalists need.

Rating of the best knives

A man may be interested in the top survival knives. It presents interesting models that have already earned the trust of hunters and lovers of extreme hiking.

Jungle King

For those who like to travel, the knife will be indispensable, as it has a built-in compass.

The Aitor brand is engaged in the release of this model. The blade of the tool is made of a practical alloy based on chromium and molybdenum. Its hardness is 59 units. The length of the blade is limited to 13.5 cm. There is a NAZ in the handle of the knife. It also contains a compass, which will help the traveler not to get lost along the way.

There is twine on the scabbard. Its owner can use the knife at their own discretion.

HB-1-01

A variant of a domestic knife that has certain similarities with the Jungle King II model. The length of the tool blade is 16 cm. Steel grade 8HF is used in the manufacture. The handle of the knife is also steel. Inside it are placed items that are included in the NAZ kit.

The knife is equipped with a built-in compass. Its scabbard is divided into equal cavities. The first holds a saw and a skinner knife, and the second is wound with a cord.

Ganzo g8012

The Ganzo knife is very sharp and has proven itself well on tourist trips.

This model completes the top of the best survival knives. She was recognized as the best in 2017. The tool lies well in the hand and does not cause any inconvenience. The handle is painted in bright color, making it difficult to lose it in the snow, grass or foliage.

This knife comes with a fire starter, which is located in the butt heel area. The sheath contains a sling cutter designed for quick cutting of leather, fabrics and branches.

Is it possible to make a survival knife with your own hands

If a person is familiar with sharpening a flint and working with metal, he can try to make a survival knife with his own hands. If desired, it can be equipped with a flint and a sharpener.

Preparation for the handle and blade of the product.
Rivet metal.
Sandpaper.
Hacksaw that works on metal.
Bulgarian or file.

Once all the tools and materials are prepared, you can proceed directly to work on the knife. To prepare the blade, it is permissible to use a file or car springs. On the workpiece it is required to draw the blade of the future product. A couple of holes need to be made around the perimeter. Before you start working on the handle, you should drill holes for rivets in a suitable area. Now you can start to give the blanks the correct shape.

After making a blade for a knife, it must be hardened

On the workpiece, it is imperative to outline the cutting edge. After it should be grinded to give the desired sharpness. For these purposes, it is desirable to use a file.

The workpiece at the time of working with the file must be fixed with a vice. This step will help you avoid injury. In addition, workpieces that are in a fixed position are much easier to work with.

Upon completion of this work, the cutting part should be treated with sandpaper. Also, the metal itself must be hardened. This procedure provides him with strength and reliability. To harden the metal, it is necessary to hold it on hot coals for 15 minutes.

After this stage is over, it is necessary to cool the knife with oil. Next, the future knife is placed in the oven for 40 minutes. At the same time, a temperature of about 300-400 degrees should be maintained in it. You need to bake the metal in the oven twice.

After the blade has fully baked and cooled, it must be carefully sanded. Next is the burnishing procedure. With its help, it is possible to protect the tool for survival from rust.

Now the master can start turning the handle for the knife. Next, the two main elements must be securely fastened to each other.

If during the course of all the work the master strictly adhered to the manufacturing technology, then at the end of his labors he will receive a high-quality knife. A homemade product will serve him for a long time and help him cope with problem situations.