Beer mug made of wood with your own hands. How to make a wooden mug for beer - a wooden beer glass with your own hands. How to make a wooden mug, step by step instructions
It is so nice to drink cool kvass from a wooden mug on a hot day or after a steam bath in a bathhouse! I propose to make it with your own hands.
You will need hardwood planks: oak, birch, alder or other. Most importantly, do not try to make a mug from pine, otherwise your drink will be flavored with a resinous aroma and bitterness.
You will need to saw 12 pieces of boards 22 long and 3 cm thick. One side of the board should be shorter than the other in width to get a bevel of 12 degrees:
When the boards are sawn, carefully sand them.
Now let's take the adhesive tape and assemble the canvas, applying the boards to each other with the inner short side up. Let's take some cylindrical template and having smeared the ends of the boards with PVA glue, we begin to assemble our mug:
Tighten it tightly with ropes or an elastic band.
Carefully sand the mug outside and inside when the glue is completely dry. We will tighten it with metal rings.
We cut out the bottom from the plank, so that it is very tight, smear the end of the bottom with glue and insert it into the mug:
We will cut out the handle (by the way, it can be made of pine) and glue it to the mug.
All sharp details are sanded and rounded with sandpaper. You can treat the mug with linseed oil to give it a beautiful warm shade. The main thing is not to use synthetic toxic compounds.
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Want to do original gift for a wedding or birthday? Or a thing that would be nice to use and pick up, then we suggest making a wooden mug with your own hands, which will really look unusual, it will definitely be pleasant to drink any drink from such a mug.
What you need to make a wooden mug:
- Thick tree branch;
- Saw (electric or manual);
- Hammer and chisel;
- Drill;
- Joiner's glue (PVA);
- Sandpaper;
- Polyurethane varnish.
How to make a wooden mug, step by step instructions:
The first step is to find a branch suitable for the mug, I often see similar ones when trees are pruned on the street, and there I chose a piece of branch of the required thickness. You will also need even thinner branches for the handle.
Trim the branch to your desired mug height. Remove the bark from this piece of branch, I used a flathead screwdriver to remove most of the bark.
Now we need to divide the log into four sections, for this I used a chisel and a hammer, with the help of which I carefully split the log.
For each of the 4 parts of the mug, measure 19 mm from the bottom, make an incision in this part, but so that the wall thickness remains about 9 mm on the sides. The saw makes a straight cut on a rounded object, so you need to be careful not to cut too far on the sides. Using a chisel, knock out the inner piece of wood from the top, it should break off before the notch, then continue to cut and knock out the excess from the inside of the mug parts until you reach the desired thickness of the mug walls and so that they are rounded.
Using sandpaper, clean the inside of the mug without touching the side splits where they should stick together.
Now, using wood glue, glue the two parts together with masking tape and leave to dry for a day. Then grease the side and bottom walls with glue and now glue everything together, tightening it with masking tape, electrical tape or an elastic band.
When gluing, gaps may remain in some places; they can be covered with tyrsa mixed in glue (fine wood chips). Leave the glue to dry overnight.
After the glue dries, carefully sand everything from all sides, round the bottom and top of the wooden mug with sandpaper so that there are no sharp edges.
I sanded the bottom inside the mug with a homemade disc made of wood mounted on a metal rod, and I glued sandpaper to this disc.
Let us now take up the creation of a handle for our wooden mug, for this, take one stick thicker, the other thinner, remove the bark from them, cut to desired length, you should get two thin sticks and one thick one longer.
Drill through holes with a drill with a diameter of the thinnest sticks in the wall of the mug (in its upper and lower parts, one above the other) and in a thick handle also through and at the same distance and insert thin sticks into the holes, applying plenty of carpentry glue to the tips so that there are no gaps in mug.
What remains is the finishing of our wooden mug, I used polyurethane for this (this is a type of synthetic varnish that is used to cover and process wooden products). For complete waterproofing, it was necessary to apply several layers.
Since the wooden mug was a wedding gift, I printed out a heart template with the initials and the date of the wedding, and using a dremel with an engraving nozzle, I cut out an engraving along the outlines of the template, similar to what lovers do on tree trunks with a knife. Then I painted these engraving contours with black paint and varnished.
This is what a finished wooden mug looks like, made by hand, I hope you like it as much as I do.
At home ancient Rus' already in the tenth century, they used made in the cooperage technique mugs, jugs, glasses and bowls. Such jugs and jugs are made almost unchanged in our time. Jugs for kvass, honey and beer are in fact big circles containing about a liter of drink. They usually had drain spouts and hinged lids. Drinks were scooped from large jugs, which did not have drain spouts, with special wooden ladles. The word jug is much older than the word circle. If a jug is necessarily a wooden cooperage vessel, then a mug can be metal, clay, etc. The exception is measuring mugs that have a sufficiently large capacity. Modern measuring cups have a capacity of 1 liter. There are 10 - 12 mugs per bucket.
Nowadays, glued mugs are also made, which at first glance are no different from cooperage mugs. They are made of individual staves and tied with hoops. However, this is just an imitation. The frame of the mug is turned on a lathe.
For making wooden mugs a massive block is glued from trihedral wooden prisms. After the glue dries, a hollow core of the mug is turned out of it on a lathe along with a moring groove for the bottom, which is inserted on the glue. After turning, each of the prisms takes the form of a cooper's riveting. Metal or wooden hoops are stuffed onto the frame, and with the help of round plug-in spikes (dowels), a figured handle with or without a figured cover is attached.
Such a mug is similar to a cooper's mug, but it cannot be used for water and drinks, as the glue can melt from moisture. Cooperage utensils are not only completely harmless, but also contribute to the acquisition of drinks special properties improving their quality.
For the manufacture of mugs, jugs and other cooperage vessels use wood ash, oak, linden, birch, alder, aspen, maple and juniper. Dishes made from juniper are not only beautiful, but also useful. Its aroma is reminiscent of the smell of allspice. The aroma is so persistent that it lasts for many years. It is also absorbed by drinks poured into juniper dishes. Moisturizing the wood enhances the aroma. It seems that it comes not from mugs, but from the drinks themselves - kvass, beer, etc.
Dried juniper trunks are prepared for staves of juniper vessels. Juniper is a very photophilous plant. He does not like blackouts, so it is not so difficult to find his dead wood in the forest. Juniper trunks are thin and may not split as it should be, but the wood is well processed with a knife, chisels, plows, chisels, and other tools. To save wood, juniper staves in the frame of the mug can be alternated with linden, alder or aspen.
The very best milk mugs are made from wood cedar and spruce, as it weakly absorbs liquid. Special substances contained in cedar wood contribute to the good preservation of dairy products.
For jugs, mugs, konovok and other cooperage vessels, the frames are made in the same way as for any cooperage utensils that have the shape of a truncated cone. Proportions, sizes, shape of handles and covers will be individual.
For decorative vessels, the handle can have the most unusual shape. For example, a handle adorned with sawn carving gives a jug, mug or shoe an elegant look. beautiful view. Such dishes can decorate the interior of any kitchen.
For production of krkzhek with a hinged lid, in the upper part of the handle, as well as in the ears of the cover, a through coaxial hole is drilled. In the handle, the diameter of the hole should be 1 - 1.5 mm smaller than in the ears of the cover. Then a round rod, machined from hardwood, when connecting the handle to the lid, will hold firmly in the lugs of the lid, but rotate freely in the hole in the handle.
The handle is attached to the frame with the help of nests cut into the riveting and fixed from above with hoops. If the rivets are thin, then instead of this method of fastening, another one is used, in which the handle is cut out of a whole piece of wood along with the riveting. After the assembly, the skeleton seems to be organically connected with it. The drain spout for the jug and forging is also cut out together with the riveting from one piece of wood.
For making lagoon– original cooperage utensils, in addition to ordinary staves, two special staves are needed. The body of the product tapers upward and has the shape of a truncated cone.
One of the rivets is cut out together with the side handle, and the other is cut out with an eye protruding above the skeleton. A tubular nose is attached to the second riveting at an angle of 45 degrees. This riveting can also be cut from a single blank, which is a section of the trunk with a knot of suitable sizes.
If the nose is made separately from the riveting, it can be machined on a lathe or cut with a knife from round timber. To do this, a through longitudinal hole is drilled in a round timber clamped in a vice. First drill from one end, and then from the other. The finished wooden tube is hewn and trimmed with a knife to give it the shape of a cone. Then a hole is cut out in the rivet into which the spout is inserted.
The lid for the lagoon is best cut from a whole wide board. But you can also make it from 2 - 3 boards connected to each other on dowels. On the one hand, the lid is connected on a hinge or swivel with a side handle, and on the other, with a small lid covering the spout. A hole is hammered in the lid, into which the eye of the protruding riveting should enter. To pour a drink into the vessel, flip the large lid, to pour the small lid.
In the original cooperage vessel, which is called lagoon, details of heterogeneous cooperage utensils are used. The long tubular spout is borrowed from an ancient pail of the 13th century, the handle-bracket is the same as that of a birch bark, the side handle is like that of a jug, and the riveting with an eye is like that of a bucket or tub. Having closed the lid on the latch, the lagoons can be lifted by the handle-bracket, and also, if necessary, transferred.
Thanks to the long spout narrowed towards the end, the contents of the lagoon can be poured into dishes with a narrow neck and into small dishes. The presence of two handles (side and top) facilitates pouring drinks. The vessel is lifted by the upper handle, tilted forward by the side handle. Four rectangular holes are cut into the handle. The bottom holes serve to fix the handle on the lid. One of them should be slightly smaller than the other. So that the handle rests on the lid and does not fall through, small hangers are cut out from both ends. The ends of the handle are inserted into the sockets of the lid and secured from below with a birch wedge, which is driven into the holes located below.
The edges of the other two rectangular holes in the handle, located above, should be level with the surface of the cover. A latch cut from a birch bar is inserted into these holes. One end of the latch should fit into the eye of the riveting protruding above the frame. If the latch is pulled out of the ear, it will immediately open. To make it convenient to move the latch with your fingers, a semicircular cutout is made in its block.
Usually lagoons are made from spruce or fir. The wood of these trees is light and easy to process. Finished dishes were painted oil paints. Sometimes the hoops were not painted, but covered with drying oil. The slightly golden wood of the hoops stood out beautifully against the multi-colored background.
A vessel will be very elegant if it is decorated with carvings or drawings are burned on it. Wood can also be processed with a blowtorch or burner, etc.
Kuksa is a folk Sami mug (small cup or ladle) carved from birch burl or burl.
In our case, it will be a stylized oak wooden mug. We will sculpt this mug on a wood lathe.
We need an oak bar measuring 13.5x9.5x7.5 cm.
We mark a circle with a diameter of 9.5 cm with a compass. We draw a handle of 3 cm and draw lines of cuts.
We make cuts.
We chip off the excess with a chisel.
We drill a hole in the handle with a 25 mm spade drill.
We round the workpiece on the circular.
We fasten the mug blank with self-tapping screws to the faceplate with the bottom down and install it on a lathe.
We begin to form the bottom and the handle.
We cut with a cutting cutter (thereby rounding the workpiece) to the maximum, but do not get carried away so as not to cut off the handle at all.
It turned out here is such a blank with a rounded bottom and not machined "collar" about 3 cm. The bottom is 5.5 cm.
We remove the mug from the faceplate, fasten a pine boss onto the faceplate and grind a "belt" equal to the bottom, namely 5.5 cm.
We apply PVA glue, combine the “belt” of the boss with the bottom of the mug and clamp it with clamps.
Glued together, installed in the machine.
We grind and grind the inside.
We cut. Here's what happened.
Here's what happened.
And also bring to the ideal, grinding by hand. Here is the result before oiling.
And already covered with linseed oil.
Cookie is ready. Dimensions: diameter - 8.5 cm, height - 6.5 cm, length with handle - 12.5 cm.
Thank you for your attention. I hope that my master class will be useful to someone.
With all respect, Andrew.
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True, the master’s stainless hiking mug is taken as the basis here, and so he decided to style it like a tree. Why did he take a pre-dried wood blank (it is desirable that the texture was beautiful) and turned a wooden glass on a lathe, into which he inserted his favorite metal mug.
Let's look at how the master made his mug? What exactly did he need to do this?
materials
1. wooden beam 10 inches (25.4 cm)
2. travel mug (stainless steel)
3. linseed oil
4. cotton fabric
5. wood glue or epoxy
Tools
1. wood lathe
2. set of chisels
3. brush
4. drill and 3 circular drills (to create a cavity in the workpiece)
5. sandpaper
6. hacksaw
7. ruler
The process of creating a wooden mug with your own hands
And so, the first step, of course, is to find a suitable material, it is better if the pattern and texture of the wood is not uniform. Breeds are suitable for this fruit trees(apple, cherry, bird cherry) their pattern is very beautiful and unique. You can also use "Cap" whose pattern is very similar to marble, but its wood is quite hard and difficult to process.
Then the workpiece must be dried in natural conditions. or in a special drying chamber (who has it) Attention! The wood must be absolutely dry before processing, but if it is not dry and wet, then it will simply crack and all your work will go down the drain.
Many of you at school in the lessons of "Labor" while studying in high school, studied the lathe for wood and turned on it (rolling pins, balusters, candlesticks, door handles etc.) That is, they are familiar with the device and the principle. But not everyone was allowed to grind on this machine (glasses and nesting dolls), but especially neat and attentive! Because with careless work on turning the internal cavity, the workpiece often flew out, where the nesting doll, where the chisel)))
Next, the resulting beam must be marked with a ruler and a pencil in order to find the center by drawing 2 lines from corner to corner, the crosshair will be the center. Centering must be strictly observed! A curved marking is a potential blow to the forehead by a flying blank))) By the way, here on the site there are articles on making wood with your own hands
It is inserted into the guides and clamped.
The machine turns on and the master begins to grind off the excess, giving the workpiece a cylindrical appearance.
Important point! On the left side, he grinds a "thorn" which will then be inserted into the chuck and will hold the workpiece without 2 points of support.
Next, the internal cavity is drilled with drills, the author uses 3 drills for this different diameter, starting with the smallest. After that, the inside must be sanded with sandpaper dressed on a stick - this is necessary for subsequent turning in order to ensure a smooth surface.
With the help of a chisel it is machined inner part.
Periodically, the master applies the bottom of a metal mug so as not to grind off the excess. Once again, he stopped the machine in order to evaluate the work done.
The surface of the wooden glass is polished with sandpaper.
And so, the inner part is machined and now the master cuts the spike with a hacksaw.
Next, the master takes his stainless steel camping glass and covers it epoxy resin, you can also use glue that is not afraid of temperature effects. Attention! Do not use toxic types of glue like "Moment" because when you pour boiling water into a mug, the metal will heat up and this glue will begin to evaporate its chemical elements. Be careful!
Epoxy coated surface, placed in a wooden glass.
Then you should wait until the adhesive dries, and then the master places the glass back into the chuck lathe, this is necessary in order to align the bottom of the hiking mug to the maximum.
And one more strict instruction from the author!!! Don't cover wooden surface stain and all kinds of varnishes (because they contain chemistry) The only thing that can be used to give a more noble look to the tree is only "linseed oil" What the master successfully did without removing the mug from the machine. he took a natural cotton fabric (cotton), moistened it with oil and impregnated the tree at low speeds of the machine. Why is the master doing this on the machine? Because it takes a long time and painfully to rub the product with oil (manually) and everything is operational on the machine)
