Dimensions of wooden mugs. Beer mug with your own hands. Large beer mug
I thought long and hard about making the fine hardwood floorboards left over from my uncle's house, it was a pity to see such excellent material go to waste. After watching a lot of videos on the internet on how to make a mug out of wood, I decided to make a big mug, but improved the idea a bit. I also had a piece antler and I figured it would make a good mug handle.
This mug is suitable for anything - you can cosplay a Viking to hang on your belt, you can use it for butterbeer in a Harry Potter role-playing game, or just to impress your friends.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Tools:
- circular machine
- Frazier
- grinding machine
- Hammer
Materials:
- hardwood floor board
- Wood glue
- Small nails without a cap
- Polyurethane
- Lots of rubber bands
Step 2: Cut the floorboard
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The floorboard is covered with notches, so first you need to make an ordinary rectangular one out of the floorboard. The easiest way is to cut the tongue and groove on circular machine, and then sand it so that there are no burrs left.
After that, you must decide how many edges you want to make. Suppose there are eight faces, we calculate the angle at which we will cut the board.
If you also decide to make an octagonal wooden beer mug, skip this paragraph. If you want to make more or less edges, check out my calculation. Since there are eight sides, we need to divide 360° (the number of degrees in a circle) by 8, which gives us 45°, then subtract 45° from 180° (the total number of degrees of all angles of the triangle) and divide the difference by 2 and get 67.5 ° (or 22.5° - depending on which side of the board you will measure from).
After that, we set the board on the circular table at an angle of 22.5 ° (because at an angle of 67.5 ° the board will be very inconvenient to saw on the machine).
Now you need to decide how high the goblet will be. It seems to me that 19 cm is the optimal height. Cut eight pieces of the board at the desired angle.
Step 3: Making the Bottom
My mug has a deepened bottom, I really like it when you can see this recess if you lift the mug. I raised the bottom 19mm from the base, you need to choose which height you like best. Then make a slot on each of the eight parts on a circular machine, the same width as the thickness of the bottom that you will make. Slot depth - 6.4 mm.
Lay all eight pieces together right side up and stick two strips of tape and join the sides into a ring, making sure the sides fit snugly together. Put the ring on paper and circle the inside with a pencil. Then circle another octahedron around the octahedron so that there is a distance of 6.4 mm between the sides of the two figures (the depth of the slot in the walls). Trace the outer perimeter on a piece of wood and saw out the bottom of the mug. Make sure the edges of the bottom fit snugly into the slits on the sides of the mug, the rubber bands will help you get all the pieces of the mug together.
Step 4: Glue the Mug
At this stage, you can get a little dirty. The best way to glue a mug made of wood with your own hands is to put the sides on adhesive tape, apply glue between them and on the edge of the bottom. Then slowly twist the sides into a ring, gently tapping the bottom with a hammer so that it fits into the slots. When all sides are closed in a ring, you need to wind the gum on the outside, the more the better. Carefully remove excess glue that has come out inside and out with a clean cloth.
Step 5: Making the Edge
After the glue dries, on the grinding machine we grind the edges, walls and bottom edge a little, at the same time we get rid of possible glue residues. After that, with a milling cone, make a bevel from the outer edge of the walls to the inner ones. Some part of the surface of the walls should remain flat so that the edge of the mug is not sharp. Sand the edges of the bevel so that the transition from the edges of the beer mug to the inner walls is smooth.
In the photo, a mug before sanding the bevel. Also sand the outer edge of the mug to make it comfortable to drink from.
Step 6: Making the Handle
First, we cut off a piece of the desired height for the handle of the mug from the deer antler, align the cuts grinding machine. Choose a place where you will attach the handle. To mount the handle, use the remaining trapezoidal pieces of the board, from which the edges of the mug are sawn off.
Drill a hole on the wrong side of the trapezoidal blocks to screw the handle to them, countersink these holes. Screw the horn to the blocks, adding some wood glue between them. On the bevelled sides of the blocks, drill small holes for the nails to go into the wood of the mug.
Glue the handle on the blocks to the mug and drive the nails into the holes. Press the handle against the sides of the mug with clamps and wait for the glue to dry.
Step 7: Finishing coat
To complete the mug, I suggest covering it with a good coat of epoxy to seal the wood. I didn't have epoxy, so I used polyurethane. First, I covered the inside with a layer of polyurethane, then soaked a rag with it, and applied an additional layer to each inside corner. At the bottom, the polyurethane layer turned out to be thicker than on the walls, so the bottom is better sealed.
Then I added a few more thin layers. Outside, I covered the mug with two layers of polyurethane. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as I did. If you have any questions, write in the comments or email. Good night everybody.
PS. You can burn something on the sides or on the bottom, I'm waiting for your suggestions.
Project: August 2004
This is one of the very first attempts to openly show the manufacturing technology of one of their products online. This has never happened before in practice. Memories of the events of that time today cause a smile. Firstly, a carpenter with a camera - then it’s hard to imagine, but with a computer and Internet access - it’s generally nonsense. Secondly, not everyone is able to share their “secrets” and best practices, both then and today.
Since that moment, I have acquired a lot of different modern equipment, developed a lot of new technologies. AND oak mug today it would look a little different, and the manufacturing technology would most likely change. But in memory of the product of that time, I decided to save this master class and transfer it to the pages of the new site virtually unchanged, although on the Internet parts of the original text are found in the description of many sites ...
Well, the story itself began with one order. Then still a young company "Arena" for its Arena Beer House decided to order tasting trays in which customers would be served four different varieties beer. The variety you liked should have been served in wooden beer mug. Then I designed the mug together with wooden tray. Wooden mugs were made in small quantities, and the tray remained in the sketches (although the manufacturing technology was also worked out).
Below, as promised - the original description from the old site:
“It all started with a conversation about wine oak barrels and the like. This gave me the idea to do oak mug for beer. Previously, I did not have to deal with the manufacture of mugs, so I decided to do it using my own technology. After reviewing a dozen sites about beer, I made a discovery for myself - for 50 ml of vodka, a glass with a capacity of 50 ml is enough, but beer still has its own foam. That's why beer mug must have a place for foam. The beer fills about 3/4 of the glass. Accordingly, for 0.5 liters of beer, the mug should have a volume of about 0.8 liters.
So, to business!
I don’t know what Papa Carlo made his mug from, I decided to use a time-tested material - oak. For the manufacture of mugs it is necessary to prepare eight oak blanks measuring 150x60x15mm and one 135x70x25mm for the handle. It is necessary to trim the bars at an angle of 6 °, since the mug will have a conical shape. Yes, I almost forgot that the bottom is necessary so that the beer does not pour out. The bottom of the mug is also double-layer oak. Two blanks 130×130×3mm. The direction of the texture of the first, is located across the texture of the second workpiece. For the mug, you also need a copper strip of about 900 × 13 × 0.7 mm.
If you have prepared everything and still have the desire to make an oak mug, then go ahead!
The body blank must be shaped into a trapezoid with a base of 59mm and a top of 48mm. The ends are beveled inward at an angle of 22.5 degrees. The peculiarity is that the ends are processed for a tenon-groove connection! After processing, the workpiece will look like this.
Having previously cut the bottom in the shape of an octahedron (the size depends on the depth of the groove), you can start assembling the mug.In the assembled state, give the upper edge of the mug a thinner shape and round off. It is also necessary to round off the corners at the bottom of the mug.
Now you need to make a handle for the mug. You can choose any form. For convenience, the edges of the handle should be rounded as much as possible. At the ends of the handle, it is necessary to make holes for further attachment to the body of the mug.
The next step in making the mug is attaching the handle to the body. Here it was necessary to apply unusual technology. We encircle the mug with copper stripes with a printed pattern. We fix the ends of the strips on one of the planes of the mug with the help of screws threaded through oak dowels. Such fastening allows you to securely fix copper and dowels on the body of the mug. Next, press the handle onto the dowels. This method makes the connection between the handle and the body of the mug secure and invisible.
materials
1. wooden beam 10 inches (25.4 cm)
2. travel mug (stainless steel)
3. linseed oil
4. cotton fabric
5. wood glue or epoxy
Tools
1. wood lathe
2. set of chisels
3. brush
4. drill and 3 circular drills (to create a cavity in the workpiece)
5. sandpaper
6. hacksaw
7. ruler
The process of creating a wooden mug with your own hands.
And so, the first step, of course, is to find a suitable material, it is better if the pattern and texture of the wood is not uniform. Breeds are suitable for this fruit trees(apple, cherry, bird cherry) their pattern is very beautiful and unique. You can also use "Cap" whose pattern is very similar to marble, but its wood is quite hard and difficult to process.
Then the workpiece must be dried in natural conditions. or in a special drying chamber (who has it) Attention! The wood must be absolutely dry before processing, but if it is not dry and wet, then it will simply crack and all your work will go down the drain.
Many of you at school in the lessons of "Labor" while studying in high school, studied the lathe for wood and turned on it (rolling pins, balusters, candlesticks, door handles etc.) That is, they are familiar with the device and the principle. But not everyone was allowed to grind on this machine (glasses and nesting dolls), but especially neat and attentive! Because with careless work on turning the internal cavity, the workpiece often flew out, where the nesting doll, where the chisel)))
Next, the resulting beam must be marked with a ruler and a pencil in order to find the center by drawing 2 lines from corner to corner, the crosshair will be the center. Centering must be strictly observed! A curved markup is a potential blow to the forehead by a flying blank))) By the way, here on the site there are articles on making lathe on wood with your own hands
It is inserted into the guides and clamped.
The machine turns on and the master begins to grind off the excess, giving the workpiece a cylindrical appearance.
Important point! On the left side, he grinds a "thorn" which will then be inserted into the chuck and will hold the workpiece without 2 points of support.
Next, the internal cavity is drilled with drills, the author uses 3 drills for this different diameter, starting with the smallest. After that, the inside must be sanded with sandpaper dressed on a stick - this is necessary for subsequent turning in order to ensure a smooth surface.
With the help of a chisel it is machined inner part.
Periodically, the master applies the bottom of a metal mug so as not to grind off the excess. Once again, he stopped the machine in order to evaluate the work done.
The surface of the wooden glass is polished with sandpaper.
And so, the inner part is machined and now the master cuts the spike with a hacksaw.
Next, the master takes his stainless steel camping glass and covers it epoxy resin, you can also use glue that is not afraid of temperature exposure. Attention! Do not use toxic types of glue like "Moment" because when you pour boiling water into a mug, the metal will heat up and this glue will begin to evaporate its chemical elements. Be careful!
Epoxy coated surface, placed in a wooden glass.
Then you should wait until the adhesive dries out, and then the master places the glass back into the chuck of the lathe, this is necessary in order to align the bottom of the camping mug to the maximum.
And one more strict instruction from the author!!! Don't cover wooden surface stain and all kinds of varnishes (because they contain chemistry) The only thing that can be used to give a more noble look to the tree is only "linseed oil" What the master successfully did without removing the mug from the machine. he took a natural cotton fabric (cotton), moistened it with oil and impregnated the tree at low speeds of the machine. Why is the master doing this on the machine? Because it takes a long time and painfully to rub the product with oil (manually) and everything is operational on the machine)
As you may have noticed, the author’s metal mug has a lid, but in a wooden case, with the lid closed, the liquid will remain hot or cold longer, depending on what is poured. Accordingly, the mug has become very beautiful and already unique, because the pattern of the tree is not repeated)
The work is certainly not easy, but the result is worth it. By the way, you can also burn out some kind of drawing, or an inscription, as they say, "at your discretion."
Every real lover of the Russian bath has a wooden jug with chilled kvass in the dressing room, and on its lid is emblazoned wooden mug. But even in a city apartment it is nice to sit over cold kvass on a hot day. And kvass, you know, is drunk from a wooden mug. We can make such a mug ourselves.
wooden mug
From hardwood boards 30 mm thick, we saw 12 boards 220x31 mm (coniferous wood will not work: a drink in a mug will be flavored with bitterness and a resinous aroma). At an angle of 12 0, we cut off the longitudinal edges of each plank so that a trapezoid is obtained in sections, as in the figure.
We grind the boards. We stretch two tapes of adhesive tape parallel to the table with the adhesive side up and lay out the planks across the narrow edges up, applying them to each other. A canvas is formed.
We coat the adjoining edges of the boards with PVA glue, take some cylindrical object as a template and cover it with our canvas so that the adjoining edges of the boards stick tightly to each other (this requires a cylinder of suitable diameter).
We tightly tighten around the circumference with ropes or elastic bands.
When the glue is completely dry, sand inside and out. Then tighten with metal rings.
Now we cut out the bottom from the board, coat its edges with glue and insert it into the mug.
We cut out the handle and glue it.
We grind all sharp corners and round off with sandpaper. The wooden mug is ready.
It is so nice to drink cool kvass from a wooden mug on a hot day or after a steam bath in a bathhouse! I propose to make it with your own hands.
You will need hardwood planks: oak, birch, alder or other. Most importantly, do not try to make a mug from pine, otherwise your drink will be flavored with a resinous aroma and bitterness.
You will need to saw 12 pieces of boards 22 long and 3 cm thick. One side of the board should be shorter than the other in width to get a bevel of 12 degrees:
When the boards are sawn, carefully sand them.
Now let's take the adhesive tape and assemble the canvas, applying the boards to each other with the inner short side up. Let's take some cylindrical template and having smeared the ends of the boards with PVA glue, we begin to assemble our mug:
Tighten it tightly with ropes or an elastic band.
Carefully sand the mug outside and inside when the glue is completely dry. We will tighten it with metal rings.
We cut out the bottom from the plank, so that it is very tight, smear the end of the bottom with glue and insert it into the mug:
We will cut out the handle (by the way, it can be made of pine) and glue it to the mug.
All sharp details are sanded and rounded with sandpaper. Mug can be processed linseed oil to give it a beautiful warm shade. The main thing is not to use synthetic toxic compounds.
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