Complete instructions for assembling shower enclosures. Assembling a shower cabin with your own hands: an independent step-by-step assembly of shower cabins. Shower cabins «Niagara»

Today, more and more people are moving from bulky and impractical bathtubs to lightweight and compact showers that replace and even outperform old-fashioned bathtubs in many ways, as well as save space in small bathrooms. If you also experienced the advantages and benefits of such a bathing facility as a shower cabin, then this article will tell you how to quickly and correctly assemble and connect this modern unit to all communications on your own. So, let's figure it out.

Tools and materials

As soon as you have chosen and purchased a new thing for your bathroom, and the delivery service has brought the components into the apartment, you should carefully inspect all the details for mechanical damage. Glass surfaces require special attention.

If you did not find such damage, then you can safely sign the delivery certificate, pay for the purchase and begin the installation process.

To start the installation operations, you need to inventory your tools. Make sure everything you need is close at hand. Required fixtures include:

adjustable wrench (Swedish);
a screwdriver with a Phillips bit or a similar screwdriver;
drill of small diameter;
silicone squeezing gun;
a small flat screwdriver (it is needed when tightening the small bolts in the faucet levers).

In addition to tools, you should also prepare some auxiliary materials that are mandatory for the qualitative completion of the task. So, you need to prepare:

silicone antibacterial transparent;
two hoses of 1.5 meters;
transition to sewerage with a diameter of 32/50;

When all the necessary tools and auxiliary materials have been prepared, and the tested and purchased components of the bathing unit are ready for assembly, the installation process can begin.

The assembly of the shower cabin begins with a pallet.

Find a packed shower tray among a large number of boxes with signatures pasted on them. Unpack the cardboard container and inspect its contents. In addition to the presence of the pallet itself, a number of other structural elements should be inside it:

pallet apron;
metal frame from a profile for a pallet;
studs, on the basis of which the legs will be attached;
brackets for fitting an apron;
many nuts and washers;
screws and siphon.

In the event that you could not find all these elements in a container with a pallet, it means that the manufacturers packed them in a separate box. The next step is to unroll and remove the protective film coating from the pallet.
The frame, on which, in fact, the entire shower cabin will stand, may be in a ready-made, assembled form, or may be in disparate parts. If your equipment has not yet been mounted, then you should twist the support manually.

To do this, find the frame itself and lay it on top of the pallet, combining the attachment points.

Important!In order to avoid mechanical damage on the pallet, which is now left without a protective layer of the film, a piece of cardboard should be placed under it (you can use the bottom of the package itself, previously separated from the walls for convenience).

After screwing two nuts on each stud, use them to connect the supports to the frame and the pallet itself.

Put the frame on the exposed studs and fix it with nuts on both sides (one has already been screwed on by you in advance, screw the second on top of the frame). Tighten the metal frame with nuts so that its surface touches the bottom of the pallet.
Starting to assemble the shower tray Be careful not to overtighten the nuts, as the base frame is quite thin and you can bend it, compromising the overall stability and integrity of the structure. Now select the screws of the appropriate size (profile height plus another 5 mm) with which to attach the metal frame to the pallet.

At the bottom of the pallet there are already ready-made bulges with which you need to dock the frame. After docking, boldly tighten the screws.

Video: how to assemble a shower tray

At the very beginning of this step, remove the protective film from the screen. Now be very careful and careful not to accidentally scratch the apron, because this is the face of your cabin.

Attach the apron to the previously assembled structure and find its correct position. Now find the screws that are the right length, and start the screwing process by attaching the brackets to the mortgages.
Now a similar operation must be repeated with the brackets on the pallet itself. Brackets in the kit are plastic white or black, as well as metal. If there are no special difficulties with the first ones, then you will have to tinker with the metal ones in order to properly fit them to the pallet.

Important!At this stage, it is important to make the final adjustment of the fit of the bottom of the apron to the brackets, because it will be very problematic for you to do this further. The main thing you need to pay special attention to is the perpendicularity and proper curvature of your screen. If the lines appear clear and smooth, then everything is done correctly. If obvious curvatures are noticeable, then everything must be set before continuing with the subsequent assembly.

The next moment you need to put on each of the three or four (depending on your model) studs a nut and a washer. String black brackets on top of them, shaped like the Russian letter "G".

One of the sides of such a bracket, short and perforated, should look towards the apron. Now put another washer and nut on each stud and fix the brackets.

Assembly technology

When the lower part of the future bathing unit is assembled, you can rise from the floor to your feet and continue assembling the system. The next installation phases will be the ceiling, cabin door frames, walls, central panel and hydromassage. So, let's figure it out.

Immediately after the pallet, we recommend doing the ceiling. And first of all, find among your many boxes with accessories the one in which the lid itself, the light bulb, rain shower, speakers, a cooler and many other small details, the number and set of which depends on your shower cabin model.

When you find the right cardboard container, print it out and remove the protective film from all parts to make it easier for yourself to further assembly and not be distracted.
From now on, try to act as carefully as possible and without sudden movements in order to keep all new surfaces in a presentable form and not cause mechanical scratches or damage during the installation process.

Now we insert the wire and the lamp itself into a hole suitable for it. Using metal spacers, secure it firmly to the ceiling, after which be sure to check your work.
Shower cabin lamp The speaker (or speakers) will fall into place next.

Did you know?In order to ensure complete noise and vibration isolation of the speaker, a small layer of sealant should be applied along the contour of the device. Then he will not rattle and make extraneous sounds, and therefore, will not interfere with enjoying a tropical shower to divinely beautiful music.

The speakers are closed with special protective grilles that will protect them from water ingress and mechanical damage. These chrome parts are attached with screws that you can identify by number and length.

Here it is better to work manually, since any oversight - and a screwdriver will quickly scratch the mirror surface of the chrome grille.
Mounting the speaker on the ceiling of the shower The next step in the installation of the roof will be the installation of a cooler (fan). Everything is quite simple here: four screws are threaded into four holes, and in a few minutes your fan will fall into place.

Next, move on to the rain shower, which is also located on the ceiling. We put the corresponding parts in place and fix them. In the center we fix with a nut, which will hold the shower. If you couldn't achieve symmetry the first time, it doesn't matter. Unscrew the nut a little and, having set the correct position, tighten it again.
Installation of a rain shower on the ceiling of the shower cabin That's all. The roof of your shower enclosure is assembled.

After successfully assembling the pallet and roof, it's time for the door frame and walls.

To mount the frame from the cabin doors, you need to find four parts: 2 straight and 2 semicircular, as well as 8 stainless steel screws, which will connect the structure.
To correctly position the parts, you should carefully consider the stickers on them, where the upper and lower frames will be indicated. You should also inspect the entire structure and determine the convex grooves for future glass. All slots must face the same direction.

When you figure out the correct arrangement of parts, proceed to twisting the elements together. Here it is also better to work with a manual screwdriver so as not to cause any damage.

Did you know? The oldest bath known to mankind is almost 5 thousand years old. It was found during the excavations of the palace of Knossos on the island of Crete.

This operation can be carried out using the functions of a screwdriver. To do this, the tool is set to the “three” mode, and then the screw is slowly inserted at low speed after the screw.

There may be some difficulties caused by the need to get the mounted screws on the bit into the corresponding hole in the frame (the screw has a tendency to constantly slip and fall).

In this case, you need to use silicone, having processed all the heads of the screws with it. This technique will help to put the slots of the screws on the bit of the screwdriver more firmly and quickly cope with the work.

You may be a little embarrassed by a certain shakiness and fragility of the resulting structure, but you should not overtighten the screws, let alone insert more. When all door parts, including glass, are in place, the frame will acquire the necessary stability and strength.
Now place the stops (small transparent cylinders). With notches, such limiters should look towards the door. These elements not only limit the movement of the door so that it does not crash into the body and is not damaged, but also contribute to its smooth movement.
Rubber stops Pass thin and short screws into the stops and fix them in the appropriate places.

Important!Find the screws for the stoppers you need. They should be visible no more than 3 mm when inserted into the transparent cylinder. If the screws are longer, then you can cause irreparable damage not only to the limiters themselves, but also break the door frame, and this cannot be fixed without replacing parts and, accordingly, additional costs.

The last important point will be the lubrication of the hinges with grease. All luxury cabins are lubricated on the hinges to ensure maximum sliding and smooth movement of the door.

When assembling the walls, the basic rule also applies when you first need to set and measure everything, and only then screw it on, but do not tighten it with force.

Also, during the assembly of the walls, special seals or sealant should be used to avoid further leaks. If the central panel is disassembled, then we start the assembly from it.
Shower wall assembly

Properly position the decorative chrome metal cover. The pictures in the instructions will help you with this. Next, place the mixer levers in their place. Now we turn to the assembly of the hydromassage.

To assemble the hydromassage, find a nozzle with an outlet. This will be the final element of the chain, which is installed first in the corresponding hole with a nut.
Do not forget to put a washer under the nut so that the structure does not loosen during operation.

Important!Don't overstock the hose around bends and bends as there may not be enough hose for all the elements!

Further, in accordance with the instructions and its image, insert the nozzle after the nozzle, collecting general scheme of six elements. It is not necessary to overtighten the nuts so as not to damage the parts.

Now it's time to connect the hoses to connect the circuit together.

First, connect all the hydromassage nozzles together. Then stretch the hose to a regular watering can, and at the end connect the rain shower system to the water supply.

Put the hose on the desired fitting, and connect the other end to the fitting of the initial nozzle. Then carry out all the connecting work in accordance with your instructions. Using the supplied clamps, fix the hose along its entire length so that it does not dangle or sag.

After removing the protective film from the shower guide block, try it on the appropriate place in the structure to make sure it fits. Such a delivery set includes special clamping brackets, with which you need to fix the control unit on the wall of the shower cabin.
Control block Effortlessly tighten the brackets with screws and process the seams with silicone. Thanks to this action, you will set the panel with the necessary stability and tightness to the wall surface.
Sometimes the hole for the control box is too big and it can stand up a bit crooked. In this case, slightly loosen the brackets and, after adjusting, tighten again.

At this point, the process of assembling and mounting the control box of your new shower enclosure is complete.

To engage in the installation of the walls of the bathing apparatus is separate from the pallet, so that all parts fit snugly together. Fasten the side elements of the box in turn to the central wall, joining them vertically.

Important!Do not hurry. Check that the panels are properly aligned. They should fit perfectly with each other. Otherwise, you will have gaps and leaks.

Before you cover this structure with a roof, you must install the door frame in its place, which you also prepared in advance. In eight places, the frame is fixed with screws and a screwdriver.

Correctly adjust the parts so that the grooves for the screws match, otherwise unwanted gaps will form through which water will subsequently flow out.

Once you have finished fitting and assembling the wall panels and door frame, cover the structure with the pre-assembled roof. It is easier to do this before the entire box has been placed on the pallet.

The roof must be fixed with four screws to the walls: two in the central wall and one on the side. If you want to completely strengthen your structure, then you can fix the roof to the door frame, so that the latter does not sag or dangle.
For this, manufacturers do not provide fasteners, and therefore you will have to work with a thin (2 mm) drill, and then screw in thin screws. Be careful not to damage the hollow profile of the door frame and ruin the whole job.

When both sides fit perfectly to the main center panel and the roof has found its place, transfer the assembled structure to the pallet turned upside down in working position and fasten it along the joint line.

Check the resulting design for gaps. If any were found, try to align the walls and remove the gap manually. If this does not help (in Chinese models, the pallet is often curved), use silicone and go around all the seams between the walls and the pallet.
Having achieved the symmetry of the roof, walls and pallet, you can proceed to one of the most important stages of the high-quality installation of a new shower cabin with your own hands - sealing the seams.

Gently and carefully go through all the joints that up to this point have remained without silicone sealant. Feel free to smear the silicone with your fingers to improve its adherence to surfaces and improve sealing effectiveness.

To improve the effectiveness of sealing, wipe the seams lubricated with silicone with a cloth previously moistened with a degreaser.

Did you know?The largest bath in the world is located in the Babolovsky Palace of Tsarskoye Selo. It is hollowed out of granite, and its dimensions are 1.96 m in height and 5.33 m in diameter. The wall thickness is 45 cm. This structure weighs 48 tons.

Skip the roof and door frames for now, here you still need to complete the package and go through the stage of assembling and installing doors, to which you are moving on.

While the silicone dries, attention should be paid to assembling and installing the door panels.

After unpacking and removing the protective film from the door panels, align them as they will be installed in the shower cabin so as not to confuse the screwing side of the rollers and cilia. The rollers are installed only on the top of the door, if this rule is neglected, then you will not be able to install the door in its place.
So, the first step in assembling the doors will be the installation of the side windows in the corresponding guides of the vertical profiles.

In advance, plastic seals are mounted on the glass surface, which also need to be well lubricated with silicone, and even better oiled in order to improve the sliding of the doors during installation and further during operation. The grooves on the profiles are also recommended to be smeared with an oily composition.
Having completed the previous stage, we fix the door leaf on the profile, after which we put on the bottom row of rollers.

Having inserted the door leafs into place in the corresponding grooves for the rollers, you need to adjust the position of the eccentrics, which are located in the rollers themselves. This can be done by turning the eccentrics with the narrow part up, thereby making the interval between the rollers as remote as possible.

Important! In addition, the tightening of the nut fasteners on the rollers deserves special attention. You can’t overtighten them, because tempered glass is easily subjected to mechanical damage and will burst so quickly that you won’t have time to come to your senses and understand what happened. Under the order, such glass is made within a month.

Once the front glass panels have been properly installed, the doors can be installed.

An important point is the final adjustment, straightening and inspection of the correct closure and the action of magnetic inserts that regulate the closure and snug fit of the door panels to each other. If these magnets do not work well, then they must be adjusted by turning the eccentrics on the single-roller door holders or by screwing in the screw in the two-roller holders.
Obliquely drilled holes can be the culprit that the doors will not reach the end. In this case, you need to unscrew the limiters, and then set the correct position from the inside.

Next, armed with a drill and a thin (about 3 mm) drill, correct the manufacturer's mistake and insert the stops in the desired position. Now the problem of door panels flying out of the guide profiles and their loose fit will be solved.

hydrotesting

Before you install electrical equipment and thereby complete the installation of the shower cabin, you need to check the unit for leaks so that nothing leaks anywhere and does not spoil your work and your mood.

Having finished connecting the water communications, arm yourself with a shower head and turn on the water. Gradually bypass the water pressure on all surfaces that can get water during bathing (you can not touch the ceiling).

Alternately close the cabin doors and make sure the glass partitions are sealed. Pay special attention to the junction of the walls and the pallet, as this is the most dangerous place where leaks are most often found.

If you find that water is leaking somewhere, dry the surface with a rag and hair dryer, then seal the gap with silicone. Wait until it hardens and repeat hydrotesting.

If there is no leak, then you are entering the finish line, namely, the installation of electrical equipment.

When connecting the speakers, fan and lamp to the mains, follow the labels and inscriptions on the outgoing and incoming cords. That way you never make a mistake. All you need to do is to plug the desired cord into the appropriate socket one by one.
The power supply is best placed on the cab ceiling to minimize the chance of water getting on the electrical wiring.

Now that everything is assembled, do a final test by turning on all the functions of your shower enclosure in turn. Turn on the water, start the rain shower, experience the whirlpool, turn on the music and turn on the fan.

If everything works, then you have succeeded, and you have mastered the task of assembling and installing a shower cabin at home, on which we congratulate you!

The process of assembling a shower cabin cannot be called simple and fast, but thanks to the step-by-step instructions, it is quite possible to do it yourself. In addition, by performing this procedure yourself, you will learn all the nuances and possible places of breakdowns and will be able to repair and replace components yourself if necessary.

The best videos on installing shower cabins with your own hands

Video: how to independently assemble and install a shower cabin

Video: installation of a shower cabin

Video: how to assemble a shower cabin using the example of Erlit 4510TP C4

When assembling a shower cabin, it is very important to read the instructions before something breaks - the features of the model can affect the specifics of the installation.

Even if you decide to mount the product yourself, get an assistant: you will have to accurately fit the parts and carefully follow the installation rules. Only with this approach, the shower will last 15-20 years - until it is completely worn out.

Learn about assembling the shower cabin yourself and installing it in the bathroom with your own hands from our detailed instructions with video tutorial.

To assemble the shower cabin you will need Consumables:

Silicone and acrylic sealant. Acrylic - more suitable option for sealing external joints.
Insulating tape fum.
PVA glue.
A high-quality siphon (the siphon supplied with the product is usually can't withstand loads).
Adapter for sewerage (diameter - 32/50).
Hoses (2 pcs x 1.5 m) to supply hot and cold water.

Tools:

Wrench.
A set of screwdrivers (minimum - slotted and Phillips).
Level to adjust the installation of the pallet.
Drill or screwdriver. It is most convenient to assemble the cabin with cordless screwdriver.
Drills with a diameter of 3 and 6 mm.
Screws.
The gun for extrusion of sealant.

The experts recommend replacing the metal screws included in the kit with bolted connections (M5), and Chinese metal clamps to support the hose with steel automobile ones.

How to check the quality of parts?

At the very end, when the shower stall fell into place, cling to all handles, shelves, holders and other accessories. Everything is checked and adjusted again. The best final test is a full shower, allowing you to notice everything. important points and remove defects.

When collecting it is necessary to pay attention not only to general recommendations, but also on instructions and installation features separately for each manufacturer and even specific model shower cabin.

For example, in the Niagara booths, the profile does not fit very well with the rest of the details, the walls and doors are installed in a non-standard way. And the Ika brand has another problem - the presence of leaks depends on the accuracy of the location of the doors. So if the "native" instructions have tips that are not mentioned above - be sure to follow them!

Just ten or fifteen years ago, a shower stall was a luxury item. But now more and more people are getting rid of old overall bathtubs and installing showers instead.

This allows you to increase the free space, which is usually not enough in city apartments. The current range of such booths is quite wide, but the correct selection of a particular model is not enough - it still needs to be installed and connected to communications. You will learn about this and much more after reading this article.

Note! Installation work not as complicated as it might seem. But to avoid possible problems you must first decide on the main types of booths.

The shower cubicle is a closed box for carrying out hygiene procedures. There are many models, but all of them can be divided into two large groups.

1. Open

The space of open booths is limited only by the walls of the box and the bathroom. Similar designs are also called shower enclosures.

Such models are expensive, but installation is carried out quickly and without any problems (taking into account the fact that leveling and waterproofing of the floor and walls will be required).

Note! In most cases, shower enclosures are placed in small apartments where the installation of a full-size shower is not possible due to the lack of free space. But if the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom is too small, then the corner should be selected with a transparent door that opens inward.

2. Closed

In closed cabins, in addition to walls, there is also a bottom and a “ceiling”. Simply put, they are closed comprehensively. Such booths can be of various sizes, but usually it is from 0.7x0.7 m to 2x2.1 m. They are also divided into simple and multifunctional, while the latter provide a number of additional options:

aromatherapy;
hydromassage;
"Summer shower;
color treatment;
"sauna";
radio.

The installation and connection of the shower is quite easy to handle, you just need to follow the manufacturer's instructions and make every effort to work.

Stage 1. Choosing a place for installation

The installation location of the shower enclosure must meet two requirements:

Stage 2. Assembly

Installation begins with the assembly of the structure, which will help to deal with all the nuances of the connection and determine its actual dimensions.

Note! Regarding the assembly technology, we will not advise anything here, since everything depends on design features specific model. As mentioned earlier, only the manufacturer's instructions can help with this.

Stage 3. Connecting to the sewerage system

Connection should begin with the installation of the pallet. The following are guidelines for this procedure.

The pallet should be installed strictly horizontally, so it is better to use a long building level in the work.
Included with the cabin are always special supports, with which the horizontality of the pallet is adjusted. If desired, you can fix an additional support in the center.
The pallet must be perpendicular to the wall.
In this case, the floor must be perfectly flat (the same level is used). If this is not achieved, then the pallet will not adhere tightly enough to the walls and, as a result, a leak will occur.

After assembling the pallet, the actual connection begins. Here is the sequence of actions.

Step 1. All elements of the apron are removed.

Step 2. Part of the pallet rises.

Step 3. A corrugated hose is put on the drain elbow located at the bottom of the pallet (a special side nipple is provided for fastening). This hose will connect the cabin to the sewer.

Step 4. The second end of the hose is fixed on the drain located in the floor.

Step 5. The pallet is put in place.

Note! Extremely high-quality installation can only be achieved if the floor in the room is perfectly flat, and the walls are located at an angle of 90ᵒ.

Before the start of the assembly of the structure, a “test” drain is carried out. It is much easier to correct any mistakes before the installation of the shower enclosure is completed.

Stage 4. Water supply

Proper connection of the cabin to the water supply system plays an equally important role. To do this, you need to use only high-quality pipes and connecting fittings. Moreover, all connections should be carefully sealed.

Connection Requirements

The pipeline is laid along the plinth or hidden altogether.
Water to the shower is removed from under the sink.
At least one water filter cuts into the pipeline.

Step-by-step instruction

Step 1. First, the water supply is shut off, then hot / hot taps are opened in the bathroom. cold water- so the pressure in the system will decrease to the required level.

Step 2. The old shower is removed - for this, all fasteners are loosened with pliers and dismantled.

Step 3 Using the same pliers, the old clutch is unscrewed. Each section of the pipeline is equipped with compression fittings.

Step 4 Fittings are coated with grease (preferably machine oil). Cabin adapters are screwed in and tightened with pliers.

Step 5 In accordance with the instructions, the anchors are attached, if necessary, the holes are made a little larger. Then the screws are screwed in.

Note! It is advisable to finish the attachment point with masking tape, otherwise there is a chance of damaging the tile during operation.

Step 6. The hoses are connected to the transition fittings, the connections are clamped.

Step 7. The shower panel clings to the anchors. Mounting starts from the top. Water pipes are attached to the outer part of the panel, decorative plates are installed.

Step 8. System performance is checked. The water supply is resumed at the riser, all connections are checked for tightness. Only after that the handle is attached.

It remains only to fix the walls. This must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, using silicone sealant and sealing gaskets.

Final touches

At the end of the assembly, it is necessary to carry out a number of activities related to the final arrangement of the shower stall.

1. Electricity

Only those models that have a hydromassage function or a steam generator are connected to the mains. An insulated three-core wire with a cross section of 3 cm² is used.

2. Ceiling panel

Usually the ceiling comes with a booth. In this case, a hose with a watering can and other components are connected to the ceiling - a speaker, lamps and everything that is provided by the manufacturer. The joints formed between the speaker and the panel are treated with sealant to avoid "humming".

The ceiling is installed on the appropriate fasteners located in the upper part of the structure. Joints in this case are also treated with sealant.

3. Fittings

Step 1. Rollers are installed at the top and bottom of the doorway. The rollers located on top turn out as much as possible even before installation.

Step 2. The door is trimmed around the perimeter with sealing material and put in place.

Step 3. To determine the optimal position, the upper rollers are adjusted.

Step 4. The screws that secure the rollers are closed with decorative caps.

Step 5. The rest of the fittings are installed - a mirror, handles, etc.

Upon completion of installation, final testing is carried out. As mentioned above, all connections are made tight, and the pallet should not creak during operation (otherwise, the position of the legs under it is adjusted again).

Operation and cleaning of the shower

For all models, regardless of the type, the operating rules are the same. Only means for washing differ - the choice of one or another of them depends on the material from which a particular structural element is made.

When operating, you need to remember some requirements.

It is also worth noting that the cleaning of the booth is divided into several types according to the frequency.

Video - Washing the shower stall

conclusions

Installing a shower stall is quite simple, it requires only minimal plumbing skills and the necessary instructions. In the absence of the first or second, it is better to entrust the installation to a specialist.

Video - Instructions for installing a shower cabin

Do-it-yourself shower cabin assembly step by step, photo and video instruction

Every day more and more people decide to buy a shower cabin for their bathroom. And it’s not easy, because in our modern and fast pace of life, sometimes there is simply no time to take a bath. It turns out that the bath itself stands idle and takes a place in the bathroom. But you can just put a shower and still place a bunch of necessary things, for example washing machine or beautiful furniture for the bathroom.

But if everything is simple with a bathroom, they brought it in and set it up, and you can take water procedures, then with a shower cabin the assembly and installation process is a little more complicated and longer. This scares many people and after buying they turn to professionals who assemble shower cabins.

Video instructions for assembling and installing a shower cabin, using the Erlit shower cabin as an example

On the one hand, this is correct, but if you have hands and a head, then why pay extra money. After all, the price for the work of assembling a shower cabin can be very high, it all depends on the size of your bathroom and the size of your shower cabin .For example, if you have a large bathroom and a small shower, then it will be easy, simple and quick for the installers to assemble the product, and they will not take a lot of money from you, but still it will be at least three thousand rubles for assembly and installation.

Therefore, in this manual, we will consider how to assemble a shower cabin with our own hands, without resorting to the help of installers. Let us immediately draw your attention to the fact that almost all cabins, especially those made in China, are assembled in the same way. For example, assembling a shower cabin measuring 90 by 90 centimeters is not much different from assembling a shower cabin 80 by 80 centimeters, or 120 by 80 centimeters. Also by manufacturers, for example, assembling a Niagara shower cabin is not much different from assembling an Erlit shower cabin, or assembling a Water World shower cabin. Of course, there are exceptions and nuances, but the principle and algorithm of assembly and installation will be 80-90 percent similar.

Video instruction assembling a rectangular cabin

Very often you can see a shower cabin in a showroom in some kind of store, and many may get the impression that it is of poor quality, all rattles, staggers. But this is not so, because very often exhibition samples are assembled poorly, and its purpose is to show the assembled shower cabin visually. In fact, 80 percent of its performance depends on the assembly of the shower cabin, how well you assemble it, how long it will stand with you.

So, you bought a shower cabin. The assembly of the shower cabin is carried out in a clean, renovated room. Tiles, both floor and wall, must be laid out, by the way you can not lay out the tiles behind the shower cabin, and save on this.

Hot and cold water distribution and sewerage must be performed, below in the pictures you can see the connection diagram for shower cabins measuring 90 * 90 centimeters

and 120*80 centimeters

Also, if there is a radio, lighting or hood in the shower cabin, it is necessary to connect a socket with grounding.

If you are assembling a shower cabin in winter, then it should take room temperature. Therefore, after you have brought the boxes into the apartment, open them and wait a couple of hours.

Necessary tools for assembling a shower cabin:

Screwdriver or drill
Silicone sealant
Phillips screwdriver set and screwdriver bits
Wrench 14,17,19 or adjustable wrench
Drill
Level
Roulette
Pencil

The assembly of any shower cabin can be divided into several stages.

Pallet assembly (if disassembled*,)
Tray level adjustment
Center panel assembly (if not assembled*)
Installation of rear walls and center panel (if it is dismantled)
Assembly and installation of front windows and doors
Installation of hinged and decorative equipment.
Roof installation
Sewer connection

*Some manufacturers supply pre-assembled shower trays, central panel and back wall.

Before assembling, lay cardboard on the floor, this will help not to scratch the tray, and also protect the glass of the shower cabin. By the way, be careful with glasses, do not put them on tiles, only on cardboard. It is possible for one person to assemble a shower cabin, but it is much more convenient to invite an assistant, so the assembly will go faster and more conveniently.

STAGE 1. Shower tray assembly.

You can skip this step if you have a pallet already assembled, some manufacturers supply them already assembled. If so, then go straight to the second step.

Lay the cardboard from the pallet packaging on the bathroom floor
Take out the shower tray and put it upside down
Get it metal carcass, wind the racks and legs on it. Try it on the shower tray. Screw it on with the screws included in the kit. Tighten the nuts firmly using wrenches.

Attention, do not confuse the length of the screws, so as not to pierce the pallet. Also make sure that you screw the racks and the frame of the pallet into the mortgages that are located on the pallet.

4. Screw the corners of the front panel around the perimeter of the pallet. Install the front panel.

5. Screw the drain to the tray.

The pallet is assembled.

Some, for greater strength of the pallet, before installing the frame, cut a blank from plywood along the radius of the pallet. Then they screw the pallet, the following design is obtained: pallet - plywood frame. It will be very reliable and durable. Or, for reinforcement, you can put bricks under the pallet, especially in those places where there is no frame. These measures, we recommend that you do to improve the reliability of the pallet.

2. STAGE. Adjustment of the pallet according to the level

1. Turn the pallet on its legs and place it in the place where you will have it.

2.Using a spirit level and twisting the legs, adjust the tray so that it is level.

You can also temporarily connect the drain to the sewer and try to draw water into the pan, and see how the water will go. If necessary, adjust the slope of the water with the help of the legs so that it can easily leave.

3.STAGE.Assembly of the central panel

If you have an assembled shower panel in the kit, then proceed to the next step.

1. Remove the central panel and accessories from the box (Mixer, Radio, Injectors)

2. Screw on the nozzles and mixer.

For even greater reliability, you can coat the contact points of the nozzles with silicone sealant..

3. Screw on the faucet

4. Screw on the control panel.

5.Remove the protective film from the panel.

4. STAGE. Installing the rear walls and the central pillar

You can skip this step if you have the back wall and stand assembled as a kit. This job is best done by two people.

1. Remove the back wall from the boxes (it doesn't matter if it's plastic or glass)

Look carefully at the holes, where is the top and where is the bottom, and also see which wall is right, which is left.

2.Install one wall on the pallet, having previously smeared with silicone sealant the place of contact between the wall and the pallet, tighten it with bolts or self-tapping screws (depending on what you have in the kit) Sometimes it happens that on shower tray there are no holes for the bolts, then you will have to drill them, having previously tried on the rear walls and the central panel on the pallet.

3. Gently support the rear wall and place the center stand on the pallet..Also lubricate the points of contact with the pallet and the wall with sealant, and screw them together. (bolts or self-tapping screws, depending on the configuration)

4. By analogy, carefully place the second back wall on the pallet, lubricate the contact points of the pallet and the central panel with sealant and fix them with bolts or self-tapping screws. On this, the back wall can already stand by itself, you can not support it, but still be careful, as it is not very reliable.

5. STAGE Assembly and installation of front windows and doors

This work is also best done together with an assistant.

1. Carefully remove the doors and glass from the boxes and place them vertically. Be sure to spread the cardboard so as not to break the glass, tempered glass has very fragile corners.Also take out the vertical,horizontal profiles,and rubber seals. Attention immediately determine which horizontal profile is the top and which is the bottom, they are sometimes different in width. Usually the top profile will be wider.

2. Put rubber seals on the side windows, lubricate them with sealant and insert them into the vertical profiles. Attention, you need to insert it evenly and carefully, if something doesn’t fit, you don’t need to hit it with a hammer or pull the glass to break. Take it out and try again. It often comes in very tight.

3. Using long self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, connect and screw the vertical and horizontal profiles. Carefully hold the horizontal profile, and get into the holes of the vertical profile with a self-tapping screw. First, you can screw the horizontal profiles to one vertical half with glass, then to the other.

4. Screw the corners of the side window holder to the horizontal profile.

5. Place the front wall together on the pallet, having previously lubricated the place of contact between the profile and the pallet with silicone sealant.

6. Fasten the front and back walls with self-tapping screws, you can also lubricate the contact point of the walls with silicone.

7. Screw the rollers on the door, usually there are 8 of them in a set, 4 upper and 4 lower, do not confuse.

8.Carefully fit the doors into the rails on the horizontal profiles

9. Screw the door bumpers that come with the rollers onto the horizontal profiles

10.Install sealing gum and adjust the doors

6. STAGE Installation of attachments and decorative equipment

3.Install and screw on the decorative covers that hide the fan and speaker

4.Install the roof and bolt it to the rear wall. The places where the roof and the rear wall come into contact do not need to be coated with silicone.

8. STAGE Connection to the sewer

1.Connect all the hoses that are located at the back shower cabin and exactly the hoses from the faucet to the overhead shower, hand shower. If you have hydromassage and foot massage, also connect these hoses to the faucet.

On this, the assembly of your shower cabin can be considered complete. As you can see, assembling a corner shower cabin with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem. I hope our step by step assembly shower cabin will help you with this.

In this manual, we looked at the assembly of corner shower enclosures with a deep tray, shower enclosures with a low tray, as well as rectangular shower enclosures are assembled in approximately the same way. .

We also recall that the stages of assembling showers can be slightly interchanged, there is nothing wrong with that. And also, almost all shower cabins, almost all Chinese manufacturers, are assembled in almost the same way, with rare exceptions.

You can find original instructions and diagrams for assembling shower enclosures of different, specific manufacturers and specific models on our website in the corresponding section of instructions.

When installing a shower cabin, many use the services of craftsmen. However, often the installation procedure does not follow technology, as the master tries to finish as soon as possible and take money for all completed and outstanding actions. Knowledge of the installation technology will allow you to easily install a shower stall on your own or competently control the installation process by a master.

The main thing when installing a shower stall is to choose the right place for installation. It should be next to the hood and, if the model has many additional features, connected to the mains with mandatory grounding. When assembling the pallet, you need to use the building level, since the pallet must be installed strictly horizontally. When installing the pipeline, be sure to use sealants, otherwise the flow of water will force you to redo all the work. When connecting the cabin to the water supply, at least one filter must be installed. All pipes are led along the baseboards or hidden in a box or wall.

Consider a detailed example of installing a shower cabin using Massimo as an example. This is a corner booth made in China with a high tray. Size - 100x100 cm. Bought for 30 thousand rubles. For other models and manufacturers, the assembly may differ.

Tools

For installation we need:

wrench for 19 and adjustable for 45;
long Phillips screwdriver with PH2 bit;
transparent sanitary silicone;
construction gun for sealant;
spatula for silicone;
spray;
fairies;
drill with a drill 3 mm;
roulette;
bubble level 1 m;
jigsaw;
erasable marker;
thread lock or cold welding;
hose for water supply on 1/2″ nut-nut - 2 pcs. (length is selected locally);
sewer crossing 40x50;
toilet paper.

Pallet assembly

Having made locknuts on the studs, we screw them into the pan. Short - in the center. Screwing it in by hand until it stops, fix it with a nut. When twisting, do not make great efforts, you can break the thread. Only cold welding will help save the situation.

We wind on the second lock nut on each hairpin notches up.

We lay the frame on the studs, attract and fix it on both sides with nuts.

On 4 front studs we fasten plastic brackets for the screen of the shower cabin. The perforated part should hang down.

We fasten the legs with locknuts and set the pallet in place.

We adjust the height of the screen under the lower edge of the side of the pallet. It is leveled by twisting the legs.

The lower edge of the brackets must be set with a gap of 20 mm from the floor, without tightening to the end.

Sewer connection

To install the drain and siphon, remove the protective film around the drain hole. It is better to replace the upper rubber gasket with silicone sealant. Screw on the siphon. Threads and bottom connections are also treated with sealant for reliability.

Through the adapter you need to connect the siphon to the sewer. This connection is also coated with silicone.

If everything fits, you need to disconnect from the sewer and continue installation.

Side wall installation

We remove the protective film from the top of the pallet, but leave the bottom protected for now.

We move the pallet away from one wall and install an opaque wall there. We connect the holes in the pan with a corner and fasten with 35 mm self-tapping screws (without much effort).

We install the partition back and remove excess silicone. Further, I will not write about removing excess, remove them immediately after pressing the parts.

We push the pallet with the partition against the wall and try on the central panel to see if additional lining is needed. We apply silicone to the junction of the side wall and the center panel. We connect them with 10 mm self-tapping screws.

We fix the second side wall in the same way as the first.

We try on a fixed transparent partition. The oblique cut of the metal profile should be at the bottom.

If everything fits, we silicone the profile and install the partition. Set the top edge flush with the wall. From the upper outer side in the profile, drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm and tighten the partition with the wall with self-tapping screws. This is how it looks in practice.

Install the top and bottom profile. Rounded parts are directed towards each other, the upper profile is wider than the lower one. We apply silicone under the bottom.

Ceiling Assembly

We collect the ceiling of the shower stall. To remove the film, unscrew the ventilation grilles and the speaker.

We install the ceiling in place, while without silicone. It is screwed from below with 4 stainless steel screws 16 mm.

We connect and check water and electricity. Do not soak the top edge of the drip tray.

We put the booth in place and check the stability and level.

WITH inside we process the lower perimeter and the central rack with silicone.

Door installation

From the side of the handles, we put magnetic moldings on the doors. On the other sides - L-shaped moldings with a shelf out.

We hang the doors on the upper rollers. To start the lower ones, press the buttons.

We check the smoothness of the doors and the tightness of the junction. Doors must not open on their own from any position. The abutment is adjusted using screws on the upper rollers.

Screen installation

We remove the screen, and make marks opposite the brackets.

We install the screen by installing wedges from below.

When the silicone dries, we spill the joints of the cabin, check the performance of the watering cans and the switch.

Installing a shower stall is a fairly simple procedure, subject to the instructions and knowledge of the basics of plumbing work. If you have never dealt with connecting plumbing, it is better to entrust the installation work to specialists.