Make a barrel at home. How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands - step by step instructions and drawings. Assembly and installation of the bottom of the tub

The manufacture of barrels is called cooperage. Cooperage is a whole art that arose back in Ancient Greece. People needed vessels of large volume, and the most affordable way to make a large vessel with your own hands turned out to be the manufacture of barrels.

Initially, barrels were used to transport and store water, wine, and vegetable oil. From those ancient times appearance barrels haven't changed much. This uncomplicated design turned out to be so simple and convenient that it is useful and enjoys great popularity to this day. Despite the abundance of new materials and the emergence of new technologies, for some branches of human activity, there was nothing better than an ordinary wooden barrel.

How did wooden barrels come about?

The history of the barrel began with the fact that ancient people hollowed out niches in the trunks of large trees with their own hands. To simplify their task, they initially chose trees with hollows. Most likely, an observant person took note of how animals used natural hollow volumes - our smaller brothers built their own houses in them and stored food supplies there.

Among other things, people at that time collected honey from wild bees, that is, they were engaged in beekeeping. Wild bees, in turn, inhabited the same hollows of large trees. However, in order to get the desired honey, one often had to go deep into the forest, and various dangers lay in wait there, and it was simply inconvenient. In addition, there were sometimes a lot of candidates to pick up delicious honey from a particular hollow.

In order to make wild bee honey more accessible, people went to the trick and began to cut out parts of the tree trunk, in which there was a hollow with a honey crop. Part of the trunk was placed closer to the house, and then significant changes occurred with this section of the tree. A modest hollow-hive was transformed into an apiary of impressive size. Caring owners of the apiary over time even made the roof of the bee house with their own hands. It was made from bark or a trimmed sheaf of straw.

After a young bee family appeared, it was moved to a new hollow. However, it was not always easy to find a new hollow of a suitable size, so the owner of the apiary had to hollow it out with his own hands in a thick log.

However, the life of the hive is far from eternal - over time, the hollow begins to crack. In order to save a valuable section of a tree trunk from complete destruction, people went to new tricks - they began to use a metal hoop. The invention of such a hoop is a huge step forward, new design, which combines wood and metal, can already be called cooper's utensils. To pull together a section of the trunk with a hollow or a niche hollowed out by one's own hands, ropes, plaits, wire or a wooden hoop were also used.

The diameter of the very first barrels directly depended on the thickness of the tree trunk. It was not possible to make the container wider than the tree trunk. However, when people learned to tighten the barrel with metal and wooden hoops, ropes, cords and wire, it became possible to make vessels of wood of absolutely any diameter.

Later, such a useful invention as a barrel turned out to be indispensable in some industries. For example, huge containers were simply necessary in leather workshops.

Why choose oak for making a barrel?

When it becomes necessary to purchase or make a barrel with your own hands, the question arises: what kind of wood should you give your preference to? For the manufacture of barrels, such types of wood as kedo, juniper, linden, pine, aspen, spruce, and, of course, oak are used.

In this article we will tell you about how you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. But first, let's talk about the features of using oak in cooperage.

It is worth noting that a tree such as oak is used much more often than any other. deciduous trees in barrel making. And this is quite natural - the consumer qualities of this type of wood are much better than those of other trees. We list some features of working with a tree such as oak:

• oak is quite problematic to cut, but chopping this kind of wood is a pleasure;
• you will probably have a question about how you can make a barrel from such durable wood, but such an important property of oak as the fact that after steaming it becomes incredibly elastic comes to the aid of cooperage masters;
• but after drying, oak, on the contrary, changes its shape only minimally, waves and cracks practically do not form, and this fact is another advantage of oak;
• however, most important property such a type of wood as oak is the presence in it of a special preservative component, this component prevents the wood from rotting, having an antiseptic effect;
• oak is not at all afraid of moisture, under its influence, on the contrary, it only becomes even more durable.

Oak wood that fell into the river and was in the water for a long period of time has unique qualities. Indeed, in water, wood is saturated with iron salts. Such wood lying in a reservoir is called "bog oak". Bog oak is especially durable.

Thanks to all the qualities listed above, it is precisely this type of wood, like oak, that has long been recognized as the best raw material for making cooperage utensils. It is the oak barrel that will serve you faithfully for decades.

It is worth noting one more curious fact regarding oak wood barrels. Such wood contains some specific components, it is thanks to these components that a unique pleasant aroma is formed within the wood itself as a result of oxidative processes - the aroma of vanillin. It is thanks to this property of oak wood that it is used for the manufacture of cognac barrels. Cognac from oak barrels takes on this pleasant aroma. Among other things, such a type of wood as oak contributes to faster leavening of the dough.

Even if you put a barrel made of oak in a damp basement, bury it in the soil or leave it under a downpour, all these negative environmental factors will in no way affect the amazing positive qualities barrels based on oak wood - these are the unique properties of this powerful tree.

We make a barrel of oak with our own hands

Now, having learned all about the benefits of oak barrels, we will finally figure out how to make such a container with our own hands. We present to your attention a master class on making a barrel based on oak wood with a volume of 25 liters.

The process of making an oak barrel begins with the procurement of material. Suitable wood should be brought from the forest in the spring, sawn into acceptable pieces, and then taken to the basement and covered with sawdust. In the basement in this state, your wood should dry out throughout the summer months.

As soon as the wood has dried, we proceed directly to the preparation of parts for our future barrel. We take a block of wood, reaching approximately half a meter in diameter and 42 centimeters in height, and split it as carefully as possible into four pieces.

After that, we also dismember the quarters: by gently tapping on the butt with a mallet, as in the figure with the number 1, we make 14 blanks. Blanks are made for riveting, the thickness of each blank should be approximately three centimeters. When making blanks with your own hands, pay special attention to the fact that your split must be radial, otherwise cracks will form in the wood in the future.

After the workpieces are ready, they should be processed on each side with chips. This is necessary so that they turn out to be slightly concave. This process can be seen in the photo with the number 2.

To make an oak barrel, we need two mounting hoops. In this case, the diameter of the middle should be slightly larger. The most important thing in the design is the so-called hoop-shutter, it is he who is responsible for the quality of the future barrel. The shutter hoop should be handled as carefully as possible, in no case should you knock on it with a sledgehammer.

Using the brackets based on the hoop iron, we fasten three rivets on the shutter, as is done in the picture with the number 4. After that, we fill the entire perimeter of our barrel with the blanks made earlier, and then immediately put on the middle hoop - at this stage we should get the same the same as in the picture at number 5. In order for this stage to go like clockwork, it is necessary from the very beginning to accurately calculate the width of all the blanks, based on the knowledge of the diameter of our future barrel.

After the two hoops are stretched, you will need to pull off the remaining piece of the barrel. Professional coopers have a special tool for this purpose called a yoke. However, many craftsmen go to the trick, inventing and making their own tools for tightening the barrel.

After the keg is well tightened, it is necessary to lower the upper hoop as low as possible. In the figure with the number 8, a special chisel with a groove is used for these purposes.

Next, the barrel must be dried. To speed up the process, you can put a barrel near the stove, if there is one. However, this stove should be heated for two hours every day, but no more.

P After two weeks of drying, work on the barrel can be continued. Using a straight plow, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the entire outer part keg.

After that, it is necessary to make permanent hoops to replace the assembly hoops. In our case, these are four painted steel hoops in two different sizes.

Hoops are replaced as follows:

• first remove the middle hoop;
• after that, place a permanent hoop at a height of ten centimeters from the bottom of the barrel;
• then it should be trimmed with electric jigsaw both sides of our barrel, as is done in photo number 9;
• Next, install two more hoops on top.

Having done all this, we align the inside of the barrel with the help of shaped plows, as in the picture at number 10. After that, it is necessary to make a groove inside the barrel around the circumference. The depth of this groove is approximately 5-6 millimeters.

The bottom of the barrel can be made from pre-prepared boards. The connection is made with nails without hats, which must be stainless and galvanized. To prevent our barrel from leaking, the ends should be laid out with strips of cattail - this is such a little trick.

The difficulty that a person who wants to make an oak barrel with his own hands may encounter is the question of how to calculate the size of the bottom. You can do it like this:

• fix a point next to the groove;
• approximately estimate the radius of your barrel in this place;
• after that, using a compass, set aside 6 such radii along the groove;
• so that the beginning and end of the path fall precisely on a fixed point, the radius will have to be chosen by trial and error methods;
• the resulting size is denoted using a compass on the shield, which we lay out from pre-prepared boards for the bottom of the barrel, as in figure number 13.

After that, you should cut the boards along the outlined circle using a circular saw. Next, we clamp our bottom and with the help of a plow we make a jump along the entire perimeter of our barrel.

By the way, it is useful to put a white roll pre-soaked in water in the groove, this is also a little trick that will prevent your keg from leaking.

And finally, the barrel is ready!

You can also see how master oak barrels are made.

(Last Updated On: 09/19/2017)

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands in modern society? Surely, today you will not have to gouge a product from a solid tree trunk, as it was before. The modern barrel is very different from its fellow predecessors. The most important step towards its manufacture was the appearance of metal hoops, which very tightly pulled conical dishes.

What wood is better to make a barrel

oak tree

It is excellently pricked and, when steamed, acquires extraordinary flexibility. It is this quality that is highly valued. But, most importantly, in oak wood there are preservative substances called tills, which protect the tree from rotting. Therefore, products in oak barrels can retain their properties for many decades.

Cedar

Also used in the manufacture of barrels. Its properties are soft, flexible and light. Previously, it was believed that the cedar itself contained substances that destroy microbes. Therefore, you can make a cedar barrel with your own hands, in which drinks will be stored for a very long time and not deteriorate.

Juniper

The inside of the trunk has a red-brown wood, and the sapwood is much lighter, yellowish in color. The wood of this tree is characterized by density, strength and heavy weight, moreover, it is very convenient in processing - it is well cut, does not crack.

Pine wood

It has average indicators - low hardness and medium strength, high elasticity, bends well. Due to the specific resinous smell, food products are not stored in pine barrels.

How to make a barrel at home

The question of how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands worries many craftsmen who would like to learn new secrets of working with wood.

For the manufacture of cooperage products, rivets or frets are used. These are rectangular wooden boards obtained by sawing a butt or tree trunk into separate parts. Another way is to split decks or logs.

Sawn frets are very durable. Stubbed ones are harder to make. The most important thing is to be able to split the chock so that the rivets are clean and even, and there is little waste of wood chips left.

To make a wooden barrel with your own hands, you need to correctly split the wooden block in the direction of the radius, it is advisable to get into the core. If the ax hit a little to the left or to the right of the core, then the cleavage line is called tangential. In this direction, almost all tree species are pricked much harder.

For the manufacture of rivets, ordinary chopping blocks will also go. Of these, you need to choose only those where the layers are located along, and not across. The finished frets are dried and neatly folded.

How to make hoops for screed

Iron hoops have been used for a very long time. Initially, they pulled buckets, consisting of sixteen rivets. Moreover, for the fortress they were additionally pierced with nails.

Currently, hoops are cut from durable sheet steel, then blacksmiths decorate them with all sorts of stamped designs. Finished hoops are coated with bituminous varnish or drying oil. If the drying oil layer is dried with a blowtorch, a beautiful light brown color will be obtained.

How to assemble a conical barrel base

First, we will try to connect the prepared side rivets and temporarily pull them together with permanent hoops. To do this, attach two or three initial rivets to one of the hoops (it is better to take a small diameter). Gently holding each inserted board with your hand, fill the entire space with the missing rivets. Be especially careful when inserting the last rivet. It may turn out that there is not enough space left for her. Take it and cut it a little, evenly attaching it to the rest of the rivets. This work is usually done with two or three assistants.

Barrel assembly scheme:

With the help of a hammer and a wooden drift, you need to upset the hoop so that it sits tightly on the base of the barrel. A hoop of a larger diameter is also upset.

The last operation is the installation of the bottom. It is carefully placed in the groove, the barrel is turned over and a large hoop is fixed. If the connection turned out to be strong and reliable, then temporary hoops are changed to permanent ones.

Now you can imagine how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, using only the material that everyone has on the farm.

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, drawings and detailed description for manufacturing.

The figure shows a barrel in a section:

1. Lid.
2. Small hoop.
3. Boards (riveting).
4. Big hoop.
5. Bottom.

The manufacturing process of the product in question can be divided into several stages.

MATERIAL SELECTION

The most common material is oak. It is good to withstand alcohol in oak barrels and prepare pickles for the winter. You can also use cherry, mulberry, linden, aspen or ash.

DESIGN CALCULATION

Any design is determined by the following dimensions:

Height (H) - 600 (mm)
small diameter (d) - 420 (mm)
large diameter (D) - 465 (mm)
number of staves (n) - 20
the angle of inclination of the side faces to the center of a regular polyhedron (φ) - 360/20/2 = 9°

By geometric constructions, we obtain the dimensions of the riveting.

Reference:
To greatly facilitate assembly, it is desirable to make the rivets at the top and bottom thicker than in the center by 1/5. If the thickness of the riveting in the center is 10 (mm), then at the edges it will be 10 + 10/5 = 12 (mm).

MATERIAL PREPARATION

The lower part of the trunk sawn into chocks is well suited for blanks. Chocks desired length, it is necessary to split into boards in the direction of the fibers. Send the prepared boards for drying in a ventilated room for a period of two months.

Reference:
In order for the boards to be well blown, it is better to fold them in a checkerboard pattern.

MANUFACTURE OF HOOPS

Hoops can be made from a hot-rolled tool strip 3 x 30 (mm). Ideal if the strip is bent to, but you can also manually. We drill two holes and connect the ends of the hoop with rivets, as shown in the figure.

BOTTOM ASSEMBLY

We will assemble the bottom from boards and planks. In the boards, we mill grooves along the entire length of the end surface. Insert the planks into the grooves, and press the boards against each other.

From the resulting shield, cut out the bottom of the estimated diameter.

We grind the end surface at a slight angle.

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, the drawings are at hand, all the details are made, you can start assembling the product:

1. We collect rivets around the perimeter of the small hoop, using small homemade clamps.
2. After inserting the last stave, move the hoop as far as possible to the center of the barrel length.
3. Reheat in hot water within 15 ... 20 (min) lower riveting.
4. Install the prepared structure inside a large hoop, preferably on a flat surface.
5. We tighten the structure with twine and move the large ring to the center of the barrel.

6. We continue to tighten the structure with twine, after the rivets are completely pulled together, we put a small hoop on top of them.
7. The skeleton is assembled and it must be burned from the inside, using any of the proposed methods: gas burner; blowtorch; small fire.
8. Align the edges of the barrel.
9. Loosen the lower metal ring, insert the bottom into the grooves of the rivets, and push the small metal hoop back to its original position.
10. Do the same for the cover.
11. Check the product for leaks, if necessary, seal the cracks with barrel grass.
12. Sand the outer surface of the product and cover it with a thin layer of beeswax.
13. If the barrel is made of oak, it must be washed with water until the drained liquid becomes clear. This procedure can take up to two weeks.

As you can see, it is quite possible to make a wooden barrel with your own hands.

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Preparation of moonshine and alcohol for personal use
absolutely legal!

After the demise of the USSR, the new government stopped the fight against moonshine. Criminal liability and fines were abolished, and an article prohibiting the production of alcohol-containing products at home was removed from the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. To this day, there is not a single law that prohibits you and me from engaging in our favorite hobby - making alcohol at home. This is evidenced by the Federal Law of July 8, 1999 No. 143-FZ “On Administrative Responsibility legal entities(organizations) and individual entrepreneurs for offenses in the field of production and circulation of ethyl alcohol, alcoholic and alcohol-containing products "(Collection of Legislation Russian Federation, 1999, N 28, art. 3476).

Extract from federal law RF:

"The effect of this Federal Law does not apply to the activities of citizens (individuals) who do not produce products containing ethyl alcohol for the purpose of marketing."

Moonshine in other countries:

In Kazakhstan in accordance with the Code of the Republic of Kazakhstan On Administrative Offenses dated January 30, 2001 N 155, the following liability is provided. Thus, according to article 335 “Manufacture and sale of home-made alcoholic beverages”, illegal production for the purpose of selling moonshine, chacha, mulberry vodka, mash and other alcoholic beverages, as well as the sale of these alcoholic beverages, entails a fine in the amount of thirty monthly calculation indices with confiscation of alcoholic beverages , apparatus, raw materials and equipment for their manufacture, as well as money and other valuables received from their sale. However, the law does not prohibit the preparation of alcohol for personal purposes.

In Ukraine and Belarus things are different. Articles No. 176 and No. 177 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of Ukraine provide for the imposition of fines in the amount of three to ten tax-free minimum wages for the manufacture and storage of moonshine without the purpose of sale, for the storage without the purpose of sale of apparatus * for its production.

Article 12.43 repeats this information practically word for word. “Production or purchase of strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their production (mash), storage of devices for their production” in the Code of the Republic of Belarus on Administrative Offenses. Paragraph No. 1 states: “Production by individuals of strong alcoholic beverages (moonshine), semi-finished products for their manufacture (mash), as well as storage of devices * used for their manufacture - entails a warning or a fine of up to five basic units with confiscation of the indicated drinks, semi-finished products and devices.

* It is still possible to purchase moonshine stills for home use, since their second purpose is to distill water and obtain components for natural cosmetics and perfumes.

Wooden barrels are not only convenient, but also beautiful. Despite the fact that today it is easy to find other dishes, they still continue to be used for water and bulk substances, pickling vegetables. Modern technologies production of barrels according to drawings from wood various breeds stepped far forward, but in many ways remained true to the traditions of antiquity. In this article, we will share our experience and talk about how to start mastering cooperage at home. Perhaps soon you will make the first barrel with your own hands.

A bit of history

According to some researchers, the ancient Greeks knew about cooperage, who kept water, wine and oil in large barrels. However, there is little information about that era, and actual evidence refers to a later period - 1-2 centuries. ad. The first reliable data that allows us to talk about the cooper business in Rus' date back to the 8th century AD. e. At the same time, scientists suggest that the beginning of this craft was laid much earlier.

Throughout history, coopers have been highly valued, because a full-fledged alternative wooden utensils no now.

Cooperage traditions

From time immemorial, this work was considered the lot of men. This is due to the fact that it requires remarkable strength. Even now, when the master can use the achievements of science and technology, there are practically no women in the craft.

Another tradition is connected with the fact that cooperage has changed so little over time: it does not recognize anything artificial and synthetic. Any wood product today can be reliably glued with special harmless compounds and covered with a layer of a substance that protects the material from moisture and other external influences. However, none of the above applies in the case of cooperage. Like several centuries ago, it uses only natural wood. For reliable fastening neither glue nor metal hoops are required, any connection can be made using wooden dowels.

Be careful: cooperage products in the traditional view can only be made of wood.

Wood

It is the basis of cooperage. Wood is selected according to the product. Not only do they depend on the source physical properties but also composition. In addition, experienced craftsmen take into account the season of harvesting the tree and the conditions in which it grew. They knew how this or that factor affects the plastic properties of wood, because it was important that the wood was easily chipped, cut, and bent when steamed. All this influenced what type of dishes could be made from it.

What wood do coopers use?

For many centuries, craftsmen have chosen those trees that have the best properties and are most suitable for crafts. They are considered the most convenient, and products from them - the highest quality:

Deciduous trees:

Oak. For many craftsmen, its wood is considered unsurpassed. It is heavy and strong, like the tree itself, and in terms of hardness it is comparable only to ebony. It cuts with difficulty, but it pricks easily. If the oak wood is well steamed, then it will become flexible, and for the manufacture of barrels it is main characteristic. For a long time, masters have noticed an interesting pattern: the more severe the climate in which the oak grew, and the worse the soil, the better wood, and therefore preference is given to trees grown in northern latitudes. Even today they are valued much more than others.

Oak wood is not afraid of drying, but does not like it if they try to artificially speed it up. Masters dry the tree only in natural conditions. To give the wood a decorative look, it is immersed in water for several years. To achieve this effect with the help of varnishes will not work - they will leave ugly spots. Over time, the oak in the water will not crack and will not be affected by the fungus, but on the contrary, it will only become stronger.

Wells were built from such wood, as a result, the water in them always remained clean and cold. Piles were also made from them, which did not rot even after decades. Barrels made of such material are expensive and heavy, but they will serve you faithfully for more than one year.

make the first barrel with your hands.

Aspen. This is the second most common tree in Russia. It yields only to birch. Its wood is similar to poplar - it has a high density and uniformity. It is easy to cut and process lathe, easily splits, but almost does not crack. Aspen cookware is light and durable. It is also important that wood is great for decorative carving, and therefore you can create real works of art from it. Aspen is not afraid of water, therefore it is used for the manufacture of barrels. People have long noticed that in such a tub cabbage retains for a long time White color and elasticity. After prolonged exposure to water, the wood swells, but in cooperage this is considered an advantage, since the planks eventually close together so that it becomes difficult to distinguish them.

Linden . There are more than 50 varieties of this tree, which are found throughout Russia. The properties of linden have been known for a long time. Coopers know the ease with which this wood lends itself to processing, its delicate sheen and uniform white color. Linden is easily cut, splits both along the layers and in the radial direction. It is flexible, almost does not crack, weighs little and perfectly retains heat, so it is used for the manufacture of barrels and tubs for baths and other products that do not require special strength. Lovers highly appreciate the fact that linden wood is not affected by microorganisms, as well as for its pleasant aroma.

Larch. Its wood is stronger than oak at almost the same density, which is one of the main advantages. At the same time, it makes serious demands on processing. Due to its density, it cannot be kept in water for a long time, as strong stress will occur in the wood during drying. It is almost impossible to impregnate it with protective compounds, and the high resin content makes it difficult to work even with a professional machine. At the same time, the demand for larch has been and remains high. Products from it are considered elite and are expensive, but professional companies and cartels usually work with such wood.

Pine . This tree is one of the most common not only in Russia, but throughout the world. Good indicators of density and hardness make it an extremely convenient material for processing. Only the low flexibility of wood can complicate the work. It is also important where the pine grows. Trees from the northern latitudes are more durable, and therefore they are preferable for the production of cooperage products.

Cedar. Cooperage masters love its wood because it is easy to work with it, and the result is excellent. It is soft and pliable, easy to cut and process, practically does not rot. Separately, it is worth noting the pleasant color and aroma, saturated with resins. Barrels come out of it strong and beautiful, not afraid of changes in temperature and moisture. It is not necessary to process wood with any compositions, and therefore it retains its natural color and aroma for a long time.

Why do we pay so much attention to wood? Because real craftsmen know that each tree affects the quality and properties of the finished product. For example, durable oak is not suitable for making barrels for honey, because it darkens in them, acquires an extraneous aroma. But for the storage of cognac, wine and whiskey, such cooper products are perfect, because they allow you to discover new flavors and shades in alcoholic beverages.

If you decide to learn a new craft for you, in addition to knowledge, you will also need equipment.

Tools

Without them, the master is like without hands. Today, tools can be bought at any store, but many coopers, as in the old days, prefer to make them themselves so that they fit like a glove. We will not discuss which option to choose, this is a personal matter for each master and depends on his skill, amount of free time and his own preferences. Let's talk about what you need to get started.

1. Joiner's workbench. Make sure that it is equipped with a vise and tool boxes, and also suitable for your height.
2. Jointer. It is a planer with a double knife and serves for the final processing of wood.
3. Edge planing tool.
4. Machine-gate or chain coupler. Useful for tightening rivets.
5. Strug, scraper.
6. Clamps for assembling the skeleton.
7. Tuesday.
8. Heels.
9. Cooper's bracket.
10. Own patterns and templates.

Cooperage products are made from boards, which are called staves or frets. Their shape will determine the parameters of the future product. The complexity of the work will depend on the desired result and the selected wood.

Another important point- this is the choice of material for the hoop, which will tighten the frets so that the barrel does not fall apart and does not leak. You have two options: metal and wood. The first one is stronger and easier to work with, and the wood allows you to get the same result and make the barrel even more beautiful, especially if you choose it correctly. The choice of material is also up to you.

Once all the tools are prepared and the materials are selected and purchased, it is time to start making your first barrel. You can work both at home and in the workshop. Just make sure that the room is spacious and it is easy and convenient for you to collect garbage.

Work process

Let's start by deciding on the shape of the barrel. Not only your personal preferences are important, but also practical considerations.

• The traditional shape for barrels is grooved (the walls of which are curved along a parabola). It is easy to use, but the process of making it is difficult for a beginner.
• A cylindrical barrel is easier to make but harder to use. Firstly, it is difficult to connect the rivets with hoops of a constant diameter, and secondly, when the wood dries out, they will no longer hold the frets. As a result, such barrels are rarely used.
• The shape of the cone is the golden mean - they are easy to use and impose fairly democratic requirements for production. Using the example of such a product, namely tubs for pickles, we will analyze the instructions.

Making a barrel step by step

Step 1: Blanks.

You must prepare and process all the components of the tub. Let's go in order.

1. Rivets. The success of your work depends on their quality. Usually they are gouged out with an ax from a sawn tree, usually from its lower part. The process of work is almost the same and slightly differs depending on the wood. Oak is the most commonly used, but you can choose another wood based on what we have discussed above.

So, let's get to the punch. It comes in single row and double row. The first type is suitable for thin blocks, the second - for more massive decks. The steps in both cases are the same: it is necessary to split the ridge in half so that the line passes through its middle, then divide each of the resulting blocks into equal parts, then split the quarters again. The result should be eight blanks. For thin chumps, this is enough, and you can move on to the next step. If you are working with a large deck, then you will have to resort to a two-row punch. To do this, split each of the eight blanks in half along the annual ring. The resulting logs are called coopers gnatinniks. Each of them must be split in the radial direction, while 1-2 blanks are obtained from the smaller one, and 3-5 from the larger one. After that, it remains only to prepare the resulting blanks: remove the wedge-shaped protrusions and sapwood, and then dry. This can be done naturally, in which case the process will take about three months depending on the wood, or the drying process can be accelerated with special equipment.

After the blanks are completely dry, riveting can be made from them. To do this, you will need templates and patterns that you can make yourself in accordance with the parameters of the product.

• mark blanks;
• round and bevel the outer surface with an ax;
• process it with a straight plow, a planer is also suitable;
• plan the inside with a fillet or a humpback staple;
• trim the edges of the frets with an ax;
• use a jointer to level all surfaces.

The result should look like this:

How many rivets will be needed? Let's count. First you need to find the largest perimeter of the tub. To do this, the diameter of the wide base must be multiplied by 3.14 (number 𝝅). This will give you the sum of the widths of all the rivets. But they don't always turn out the same! In order not to waste time measuring each, we recommend setting aside a straight line segment on a flat surface, equal to the sum width, and spread riveting on it until it is completely filled.

2. Hoops. We will consider the simplest option, for which we need hot-rolled steel strip. We work according to the following scheme:

1. We measure the required length of the tape. We calculate the perimeter of the tub at the location of the hoop, add the double width of the strip.
2. We bend the strip into a ring, the ends overlap. You can use a hammer for this. We make two holes 4-5 mm, install rivets.
3. We flare one edge of the hoop with inside hammer blows.

For a small barrel that we make, two of these hoops are enough.

Step 2: Assembly. When all the blanks are assembled, it remains to connect them together. For an experienced craftsman, this process may take several minutes, but you may need more. The procedure is as follows:

1. We take a small hoop and attach three rivets at an equal distance. We get a tripod, which we then put in a vertical position.
2. We insert the remaining frets one by one, filling the space between the rivets.
3. We take a heel and a hammer, with their help we upset a small hoop so that it securely fixes all the details.
4. We put on the lower hoop and upset it in the same way.
5. With a thickness gauge we draw a line at the ends, sawing along it.
6. We remove irregularities inside the skeleton. This is easy to do with a bracket.
7. We process the ends with a planer-humpback.
8. We remove the chamfer inside the core from the side of the ends. A straight plow will help you with this.
9. With the help of a morning timer, we cut a groove where the bottom will be inserted.

Step 3: Installing the Bottom. For this part, the widest and thickest workpieces will come in handy, as there will be fewer joints. The procedure will be as follows:

1. We joint the edges of the boards, assemble and combine them on a workbench.
2. Determine the radius of the bottom. To do this, put the legs of the compass in the groove-chime and select a solution that divides the perimeter into 6 parts.
3. We draw with it a circle on the combined planks.
4. Within the circle, we put marks for installing studs.
5. We release the boards and drill holes in the designated places, insert the studs.
6. We join the boards on the studs as tightly as possible.
7. We cut the bottom on both sides.
8. Draw a circle of the same radius from the center.
9. We cut out the bottom with a circular saw, leaving a margin outside the circle.
10. We chamfer on both sides with a straight plow.
11. We loosen the fastening of the rivets, turn the tub over, insert the bottom and fill the large hoop again.

At this stage, our barrel is almost ready - all that remains is to check it for leaks, make a lid and a circle. These tasks are not difficult, so we will not describe them in this article.

That's it, your first barrel is ready to pickle vegetables for the winter.

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  5,190.00 rub.