Spruce pinching. Norway spruce - a description of what it looks like, varieties, planting and care rules. Norway spruce - varieties
Today, in private gardens, you can see many huge adult coniferous trees that rise above the houses, casting a shadow on all nearby areas. At the same time, most conifers respond positively to shaping - pruning, which allows you to keep the tree in check without harm to its health and appearance. If you decide to settle in small garden a coniferous tree reaching the height of a large-sized tree, then you must immediately start “educating” the seedling, and not wait until the forest giant begins to annoy all the neighbors.
Content:In forests middle lane most often one species of pine lives - Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), and the only type of spruce - Norway spruce, or European (Picea abies) . Spruce and pine have a different growth pattern, so the approach to them will be slightly different.
spruce formation
The older and taller the spruce becomes, the more its growth rate accelerates. In a young tree, growth can be as little as five centimeters per year, while an adult spruce will annually drive growth up to one meter long.
In forty years, an ordinary forest spruce will reach the height of a three-story house, but a formed tree can remain a small and pretty cone for decades. Therefore, it is important to start regular tree trimming from a very young age.
Based on the fact that the natural form of spruce is a regular cone, the biology of this tree contains the most rapid growth of the central shoot-leader - the “crown”. If you remove the leader, this will cause a whole bunch of young branches to grow in place of the remote branch, and the crown will become wider. Nevertheless, the Christmas tree will not give up trying to maintain its usual pyramidal shape and will regularly put forward a new leader from among the young shoots.
Therefore, even with regular pruning, you should not be afraid that the spruce will cease to look like a typical conical Christmas tree. The formation will affect the appearance of the tree only with positive side- the crown will become thicker and fluffier, the branches will be shorter, and the growth will not be so intense.
To further reduce the desire of the Christmas tree to grow in height, you can independently choose a weakly growing lateral branch for the role of leader. For this, a suitable branch is fixed in vertical position with a wire or tied to a support. Thus, the growth of the tree in height will not be as fast.
When and how to prune spruce?
Partial pinching of the main crown can be done even in autumn and in early spring. To do this, they find the largest bud on the spruce paw, which is responsible for the growth of the branch in length, and carefully break it out or cut it with a pruner. This simple method will help prevent excessive growth of the tree in width, while the spruce legs themselves become fluffier due to increased branching from the lateral buds.
A more thorough formation is carried out in late May or early June (depending on weather conditions). In this case, the entire young growth is pinched or cut off (it is easy to distinguish it by soft needles and a lighter color), which is cut off on average by 1/3 or 2/3.
To keep the Christmas tree in shape, such a haircut is carried out annually once a season. While the seedling is small, it is better to do the procedure manually, and later it is more convenient to cut it with garden shears.
In some years, spruces have to be cut several times a season, then an additional haircut is carried out at the end of summer. At the same time, it is important not to delay the timing of the haircut, and not to prune too late so that the cuts have time to drag on before the onset of winter.
Of course, in nurseries you can find dwarf spruce varieties that do not require pruning and form a beautiful fluffy crown themselves ( Wills Zwerg, "Konika" and others). But nevertheless, species spruce is most adapted to the local climate, it is highly resistant to adverse conditions, such as severe frosts and sunburn in early spring. In addition, on a “wild” Christmas tree, you can hone your curly haircut skills without fear, because its cost in the nursery is not comparable to the price of a varietal specimen.
In addition to the classic pyramidal shape, with the help of garden shears, spruce can be turned into a ball on a long stem, and into a multi-tiered pyramid, and into a dense massive column.
Spruce blue (prickly)(Picea pungens) also lends itself well to shearing, which is done at the same time and according to the same principles as pruning Norway spruce.
It is still too early to cut the spruce on the left, the shoots have just come out of the buds. On the right, the young legs are fully unfolded, can be cut off. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya Making a spruce hedge
From spruce, you can even create a durable living fence. Such a fence will always look solid and solemn, protect the site from the wind and prying eyes.
Four-year-old seedlings are suitable for planting a hedge from common spruce, which are planted at a distance of 50 centimeters to 1 meter. In the year of planting, the seedlings are allowed to take root in a new place, so the formation of the hedge begins from the second year. The entire young growth of spruces is removed by approximately 1/3, in the future, as growth accelerates, 2/3 of the length of young shoots can be cut.
A similar procedure is carried out annually in June-July, and, if necessary, again at the end of summer. When the seedlings reach the desired height, they cut off the central shoot, periodically controlling the height of the hedge. To make the top of the live fence even, it is advisable to stretch the cord, which will allow you to adhere to the specified height during trimming. For ease of cutting, it is recommended not to allow spruce to grow to a height above 1.5 meters.
Usually a fir fence is made rectangular shape like a real wall. However, despite the relative shade tolerance of this breed, it is desirable to cut the hedge in the form of a cone so that the upper part of the plants does not interfere with the light enough to fall on the lower branches, in order to avoid falling off the needles.
A spruce hedge does not grow quickly, and the first results of the work can be seen at least 5-10 years later (depending on the age of the seedlings). In general, a spruce fence is reliable and unpretentious, but the formation process cannot be stopped for even a single year, otherwise nature will quickly take its toll, turning a neat fence into a real spruce forest.
Without pruning over time, a small pine near country house became a huge pine tree over a small house. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya Pine tree formation
Pine is one of the most intensively growing coniferous trees, and an adult has an increase of more than one meter per year. An adult Scots pine tree at maturity reaches a height of 40 meters or more.
With age, the pine crown becomes more and more sparse, the lower branches fall off from lack of light, and the once fluffy "herringbone" more and more takes on the appearance of a ship's pine towering above the garden. However, even such a massive tree can be tamed if you start timely pruning.
When and how to prune pine?
During the growth period in spring (in May), characteristic young growths appear on the branches of the pine - the so-called "candles". After a while, such "candles" begin to lengthen, and young needles gradually develop on them. It is during this period that pinching should be carried out, shortening the growth by half or more of the length of the candle.
At the same time, try not to damage young needles, as they last for several years, and turn yellow from damage and spoil the appearance of the tree. In this connection The best way pruning of a young pine - pinching the buds by hand. In the next season, a bunch of young shoots is formed in place of the removed apical bud, with which it is necessary to repeat a similar operation.
Thus, every year the tree will branch more and more, and its crown will become truly fluffy and “stuffed”. To contain the leader shoot in pine, an operation similar to the above described method for spruce is carried out. That is, they independently assign a lateral weak-growing shoot to the role of the crown, giving it a vertical direction with the help of a tire.
Best of all, pine gives new buds of renewal on fresh growth in those places where there are young needles. Therefore, it is very important not to miss the pruning time, which lasts until the end of May. Otherwise, pruning will not lead to the formation of new branches.
Pine candles are not yet grown enough for pruning. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya 
Pine shoots with the beginnings of needles, it's time to cut. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya When and how to prune juniper?
Sometimes in the gardens you can also meet species common juniper (Juniperus communis), which can also reach a decent height, unlike its varietal counterparts (up to 10 meters).
Some other tall junipers, such as numerous varieties rocky juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) may also need shaping pruning. This tree species tolerates formative pruning very easily, however, it is important to take into account some features here.
To help junipers form a denser and narrower crown, their growth in width should be slightly limited. For these purposes, hedge shears or pruners are ideal. This conifer responds to pruning with a burst of growth. Subsequently, new shoots fill in possible voids, and the tree looks slimmer and fluffier.
The most suitable time for cutting junipers is the period when junipers do not have active growth: in autumn - from September to October, or in spring - from April to May. But during the period of active shoot growth - June and July - it is better not to touch the trees, since at this time the maximum sap flow occurs, as a result of which pruning can lead to excessive release of juice from the cuts and weakening of the plants.
When planning juniper pruning, it is important to consider weather conditions. So, in extreme heat, these trees are also better not to cut, because heat will contribute to the rapid evaporation of juices, which can cause browning of the tips and further death of the cut shoots. At low temperatures, combined with high humidity, cut wounds do not heal well and become a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria and sometimes harmful insects.
Similar rules will be valid not only for junipers, but also for other conifers with flat needles - thuja, yew, cypress, etc.
Unlike other types of juniper, juniper Cossack (Juniperus sabina) refers to poisonous plants. When cutting bushes of this species, care must be taken, be sure to use personal protective equipment that does not allow contact with poisonous juice. Essential oils juniper Cossack in contact with the skin lead to burns.
Fir is characterized by the formation of a bald crown, which overgrows over time. © Ludmila Svetlitskaya fir pruning
Species firs (Korean, Vicha, balsam, monochrome, etc.) are fairly tall trees. Adults reach 10 meters and above. Therefore, they will also require regular pruning to contain growth.
According to the nature of growth, fir differs from spruce mainly in that it often puts forward a long, bald crown, and many gardeners often have a desire to pinch the “stick” to make the tree fluffier.
But, if the fir has not yet reached the height you planned, you should not do this, because the nature of this breed is such that over time, the fir fills the void on its own at the crown, and a new fluffy growth gradually grows from the buds.
Pinching the leader shoot will lead to the formation of many new tops, and the tree will temporarily lose its classic conical shape. To restrain the growth of fir in height, it is better to carry out the same operation that is recommended for spruce and pine (described above).
As for pinching the side branches, this procedure is carried out in the fall or in the spring before bud break. To do this, the largest bud is broken out on the shoots, which will help to restrain the growth of the fir in breadth.
However, it is important to consider here that, unlike most types of spruces, in which pruning causes the awakening of a large number of dormant buds, and, consequently, increased branching, fir reacts to a haircut in a slightly different way. Pruning this breed does not allow you to get a stuffed crown of increased fluffiness, since even after pinching the fir will branch minimally.
Nevertheless, it is quite possible to form a more compact tree due to regular haircuts. If the tree is too large, then it can simply be cut with hedge shears, in the same way as spruce is sheared, that is, when the young legs have fully blossomed, 1/3 of the length of the young growth is removed.
In the spring, when the plants begin to grow, they begin to form an indoor tree. For conifers, the top trimming method is practiced. This method consists in the fact that the leading branch is constantly growing and deleting. Every year a new leading branch replaces the old one, slowing down the growth of the tree. Since such pruning is carried out regularly, the deformation of the trunk will be invisible and the bends are not visible, and as the tree grows, they level out completely. This is the slowest way to grow vertical bonsai, taking many years to grow.
In conifers in the spring, from April-May to June, buds-"candles" develop. If such a kidney is damaged, then the nutrition of the tree will go to the injured areas, which is what is required. If it is desirable that the top of the tree "does not swing", but a good trunk "fills up" and the branches "curl", then pinching them is required. In juniper, buds are pinched regularly throughout the year, and in other conifers - once a year in spring (usually pinching of conifers is carried out from the second half of April to May).
If the candles are weak, underdeveloped, wait until they bloom. Usually, pinching of the kidneys begins with the lower branches: they take the “candle” with the left hand, and unscrew half of it with the right. A week later, they proceed to the second layer of branches, another week later, to the third, etc. An exception among the conifers is the five-needle pine: it is pinched from above and after the cones have hardened.
There is another interesting way to control the growth of a tree. When double buds are formed, the longest of them is pinched, and when the remaining smaller one grows to the size of the larger one, it is completely removed, and the smaller one is pinched in half. There should be a week interval between operations.
(based on the book by A. Polyakova "Dwarf garden, or bonsai in Russian")
Pruning coniferous trees in order to form a crown is a very long and painstaking, individual and creative process.
There are a lot of known in the world various kinds decorative coniferous trees. But today we will look at the most simple ways pruning and pinching ordinary wild trees and pines.
On our site and near it, as well as on the ditches and along the road, many pine and spruce seedlings have grown. Some leave them to grow in their place, but many transplant them to a plot or a nearby green area. So did we. Moreover, seedlings were transplanted both in spring and autumn. The result was equally positive.
The only thing that must be sustained is the former orientation of the plant to the north and south .
To this end, before transplanting to a branch pointing north (or south), we tie a small rope. After that, it will be impossible to make a mistake. As a result, we got a survival rate of 100%.
One year was given to our trees to take root in a new place. Throughout the season, the plants were watered abundantly on the needles. A year later, when new young shoots appeared, they made the first pinch.
What is the difference between pruning conifers and pinching?
Pruning of conifers, regardless of the type of plant, implies a cut or saw cut of a branch or part of a tree trunk of various ages. They try to prune young trees that have reached 3 years. But you can do it later: even at the age of 10 or more.
The fact is that under the influence of unstable climatic conditions, part of the branches may be damaged in the process of growth of a tree. Or you will not like their direction, which may also change over time, for example, under the influence of neighboring plants.
Pinching coniferous is breaking out completely or part of a young shoot, which in pine is often called a candle.
Why do you need pinching and pruning of conifers?
The main task of pinching is to make the branches of plants (where there are needles) thicker and fluffier.
If you only pinch, but not as usual, they break off one third of the growth, and by removing most of the lateral growth and completely removing vertical shoots, you can greatly slow down the growth of the plant.
For small gardens with plots of 6-8 acres, this is fully justified.
Pruning conifers helps to give the desired shape to the tree to a greater extent. Those branches that cannot be cut with a pruner are removed with a garden file.
The cut is processed with a knife so that the cut and hemp are not visible.
This procedure is desirable to do in the spring, the wound heals faster. You can repeat pruning several times per season. At what, who is too lazy, the place of the cut can not be processed with anything. The resin that comes out will protect the plant.
In the above photos, our pines, which were pinched for 4 years.
As long as their lower branches are not cut off. Now that the trees have reached a height of 2.5-3 meters, it will be possible to start shaping them. To make a crown in the shape of a ball, it is necessary to cut off the lower branches and remove the central stem shoot. After that, we will begin to form a crown from symmetrically located radial shoots. The next task, pinching young shoots every year, is to get branching in a horizontal plane, as in the example in the photo.
By controlling the length of the broken off part of the shoot, it is possible to achieve a uniform growth of branches, giving the tree the necessary shape.
spruce formation
Spruce can also be formed into a ball (see photo).
But more often spruces are used for growing hedges. Over time, when after repeated pinching they become more or less dense, you can move on to a haircut. In this case, the top and sides of the hedge can be formed as desired.
Since in this case there is a large amount of work to be done, special electric scissors are used.
By the way, note that the worker in the photo cuts, and does not pinch, young shoots on a pine tree. In many articles they write: in order not to spoil appearance, you need to pinch the candles. We did just that. But when there is a large front of work, it is apparently not up to it. Our pines will now also be cut.
garden bonsai
Pines are softer and more flexible than spruces (especially in spring). Therefore, a curly haircut and work with branches to give them a bizarre and unusual shape are done on pine trees.
In order to direct the branch in the right direction, use a wire and extensions. With stretch marks, everything is clear: the branch is pulled down and to the side with the help of a rope, pulling and driving a peg with the second end of the rope into the ground. How the wire is attached to the branch can be seen in the photo.
By bending the branch together with the wire, we achieve the required position. This must be done in the spring. The wire is removed in late July - early August, so that the bark has time to recover from the effects of the wire tormentor before winter.
Tips for caring for coniferous trees
Every year in the spring, remove dry needles from the branches, especially in the thickened part of the plants, where there is not enough ventilation.
After pinching, it is advisable to spray the crown of the tree with a 7% solution of urea. It will be both as top dressing and as a remedy for the fungus.
Do not forget to water the plants with water over the needles in the spring, as in the strong sun there is an intensive evaporation of moisture from the needles, and the roots of the tree cannot yet absorb moisture from the frozen soil. This leads to wilting and yellowing of the needles.
Conclusion
Pruning conifers and pinching is a laborious and painstaking annual task. But the results of the work bring joy to yourself and your loved ones.
Good luck to everyone in your work and see you on the pages. follows.
P.S. If you do not have the strength or time to perform these works with coniferous trees, experts will come to the rescue. Already formed plants can be bought in numerous nurseries such as Imperial Garden near Moscow (see photo).
Beauty spruce is one of the most beloved trees among many owners of suburban areas. And quite rightly so. In winter, spruce is often dressed up as a Christmas tree. She makes us and our children happy on New Year's holidays. In summer, autumn, spring, spruce is good at any time of the year.
But it also happens that spruce pleases us only the first years after planting. And then it grows into a huge ten-meter tree. It’s impossible to dress up like that and it seems to take up too much space on the site.
Spruce growth can be controlled by form pruning, which allows even tall trees to be included in small gardens.
Forming pruning of spruce is carried out at the moment when the spruce has grown to a certain size and you no longer need it. You can also cut a very small Christmas tree to give it a neater shape.
Formation by pruning Spruce Aureospicata. Scheme:
We cut the branches in such a way that there are no "stumps" left. We cut the branches immediately after the shoots that we leave. See picture above.
Forming pruning of spruce is best done in early spring before the growth of young shoots. In this case, by mid-summer, new shoots will grow and close "hemp" and other errors. You can also cut in the first half of summer after the end of the growth of young shoots. But in this case, at close range, all the flaws in the haircut will be more noticeable.
Pruned spruces once a year on the shoots of the last or the year before last. I wouldn't recommend cutting older wood. There are some nuances here, non-observance of which can lead to baldness in the place of unsuccessful pruning.
After the first pruning, a two-meter spruce may seem "stubby". Subsequently, the formation of spruce crown pruning contributes to the formation of a beautiful dense crown.
I want to add that it is not necessary to process sections of coniferous crops with garden pitch. Coniferous plants abundantly secrete resin, which serves as a protection for damaged wood.
To form the crown of spruce, use a secateurs or garden shears. Definitely clean. A dirty pruner can introduce an infection that can cause plant disease. Therefore, before cutting, be sure to disinfect the tool with a special solution or an alcohol-containing liquid.
Spruce serpentine Virgata. One of the most bizarre conifers. Spruce reaches a height of 12m, diameter 4-5m. The tree feels good in places with high standing. ground water. The first 10 years looks rare and scanty. As in the picture below it will be 30 years old, not earlier. This spruce does not tolerate crown formation or pruning. You can look at an adult tree in the Minsk Botanical Garden.
Eastern spruce Aureospicata- a relatively slow-growing tree with an irregular conical shape. At the age of 30 it reaches 6-8m in height. The needles are short, dark green, shiny. In spring, young growths are yellow in color. In summer, all the needles are green. Limey soils should be avoided when planting. Easy to shape and trim.
Norway spruce Rothenhaus -
beautiful cone-shaped spruce. The lateral branches are strongly drooping along a straight trunk, which gives the plant a clear, slender silhouette. After 30 years - 6-10m high and 2.5-3m wide. In the spring it starts to grow late. Good for small areas. It can be molded, but often it is not necessary.
Eastern spruce Gracilis- a dwarf compact spruce growing as a wide, slightly rounded cone. At the age of 10 years reaches 1m height. and ok. 0.5 m wide. The needles are short, light green. Looks good next to heathers. Formative pruning is not required.
Prickly spruce Iseli Fastigiata- a wonderful spruce with a slender, narrow-conical crown. It grows quickly, at 10 years old it reaches 10m high. Shoots are vertical. The needles are blue. Undemanding to soil and moisture.
Prickly spruce Fat Albert- one of the best varieties ate prickly with a regular cone-shaped crown and a beautiful silver-blue color. At 10 years old it reaches 3m in height, grows up to 12-15m. height. Undemanding to soils. Can be trimmed to contain growth.
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What is a small care garden and what are the main principles of its creation? When they say a low-maintenance garden, then first of all it is a garden based on coniferous and decorative-deciduous trees and shrubs. Conifers are good because they decorate the garden all year round. At the same time, they require almost no care, except perhaps a rare haircut. Properly selected coniferous plants are frost and ...
The formation of coniferous trees and shrubs is most often carried out due to improper selection of the species and variety for a particular place in the garden, and less often when a full-sized tree, such as Scotch pine, is specially planted to form a plant in the style of niwaki (garden bonsai).
Pine tree formation
Regardless of the reason that forced the gardener to create an artificial crown, the ways to curb growth for formation are common:
- Crown thinning - removal of a branch, in whole or in part, to thin out or create the desired shape of the crown
- Shortening (pinching) - removal of a part of a young pine shoot, the so-called candle, at the moment of its full extension. Usually this is the end of May - the beginning of June, when the needles on the candle have already begun to deviate. You can remove up to 2/3 of the length of the candle
- Branch stretching - fixing a branch in a given position. It is carried out by any improvised means, preferably with protection of the pine bark at the attachment point
Shoot fixation In the conditions of the Moscow region, they tolerate annual pruning and pinching well. .
When forming a pine, you need to evaluate your strengths and capabilities, since every year the volume and height of pruning will increase. If the formation usually begins with pinching a few candles, then over the years their number grows exponentially.
It should be remembered that inhibition of growth and heavy pruning depresses and weakens the plant. Crown thickening contributes to fungal diseases, needle rust, blister rust
needle rust 
blister rust In order to reduce the risk of diseases, the pruning tool must be constantly disinfected (at least with vodka). Plants after pruning should be supported by treatment with some kind of stimulant - epin-extra, zircon, HB-101, emistim. And mandatory treatment in spring and autumn , for example, drugs Ordan, Abiga-peak, etc., alternating them.
Consider examples of formation.
Formation of Scots pine
Planted in 2002, height 70 cm. Several years are allotted for rooting and the formation of several tiers of branches. In 2006, the branches were thinned and fixed for a horizontal arrangement
Scotch pine, beginning of shearing in 2006 As the pine and surrounding plants grew, the concept of formation changed.
Scotch pine, 2014 The annual pruning of young shoots has led to a strong thickening of the "clouds" at the ends of the branches. And this causes difficulties with the obligatory combing of needles, which dies off from pines every autumn.
Scotch pine before shearing, 2016 And as a result - blister rust of several shoots. Therefore, a strong thinning was carried out and several shoots were left to continue the growth of branches.
Scots pine after shearing 2016 Combing old needles, especially with signs of fungal diseases, compulsory admission caring for coniferous plants
Fungal disease of pine It is better to shake off such needles on some kind of lining, then burn
Collection of needles Giving a ball shape to a pine tree
The pine was planted in 2002, and after a few years, shortening of the young growth began throughout the crown. For several years this worked, but as soon as the plants planted nearby grew and began to shade part of the crown, the shape of the ball was broken. I had to gradually remove the lower tiers of branches and raise the ball up
Scotch pine forming a ball Now it is no longer pinched, but simply cut with curb scissors
Shearing pine with curb scissors Mountain pine formation
Mountain pine species was planted as a small seedling. No one counted on a high growth rate of pine, but soon it occupied the entire area so that it began to interfere with the passage. I had to start cutting. A mistake was made - on the abandoned trunks, all branches were removed except for the apical ones. The branches on the trunk of the tree contribute to its thickening, but the result was “clouds” on thin trunks, which had to be maintained in an upright position by tying them
Pine rock formation We conclude that it is impossible to remove all tiers of pine branches at once. If it is necessary by design, then the process should take place over several years. If, nevertheless, all the branches are removed, we save the shoots that grow along the trunk. They will help thicken the trunk and may later be useful for shaping.
To give the pine "lightness and airiness", thinning of thick "clouds" was carried out
Mountain pine thinning shoots Pine tree formation in nivaki style
With the classic formation of pine in the style of nivaki, it is necessary:
- Leave the desired number of branches in each tier. The Japanese believe that the number of branches should be odd -3 or 5
We form an odd number of branches in a tier - Thin out the branch at the base of the trunk. Leave the overgrown shoots around the perimeter, removing the central, largest candle, pinch the rest slightly
An example of the formation of a pine branch 
We leave well-placed shoots 
After this procedure, the branch should resemble a triangle located in the same plane.
The result of branch formation In subsequent years, continue the formation, leaving well-lit shoots, fix and bend them in accordance with your idea of \u200b\u200bthe possible end result.
The formation of spruce, larch, thuja will be considered later, when it grows a young growth for cutting.
In the suburbs you can not cut everything trees and shrubs - the constant removal of the vegetative mass depresses them as well as coniferous crops. Traditional haircut:
- Hawthorn blood red and unipetal
- Cotoneaster brilliant
- vesicle
- River maples, Tatar
- Derain white, blood red, offspring
- Chubushnik
- Currant alpine and golden
- Willow - types
The shape of the haircut, in principle, can be any, the smaller the foliage, the more difficult it can be. Be sure to pay attention to the growth rate. For example, the vesicle will have to be cut at least 4 times per season. But when cutting alpine currants, you can limit yourself to 2.
Also, when choosing a form, you should remember the purpose of the object. Hedge, ball, cone can be a background for other plants, and a nivaki-style haircut is always an accent.
Crop Shape Ball
The ball-shaped haircut is carried out when the plant has formed a sufficient number of shoots. To achieve this, the plant, during the first year after planting, is cut short twice during the summer season. After two years of formation, you can start cutting.
Curb scissors are taken and a hemisphere is formed
The haircut is repeated as the shoots grow. Cotoneaster brilliant grows quickly
Cotoneaster shiny after shearing If the desired shape is already formed, then you can use a garden brush cutter. It greatly speeds up the cutting process.
Cutting honeysuckle with a brush cutter 
Honeysuckle after shearing Formation of nivaki-style hardwoods
To form a niwaki-style plant, select strong, well-spaced branches and shorten them at various heights. Leave a few growing points at the top, removing all the rest along the entire length of the branch. Then cut the upper part regularly, leaving 3-5 internodes
Vesicle before trimming It is also convenient to cut with curb scissors
Shearing the vesicle with curb scissors Since the haircut is a “blind” method, that is, without paying attention to the growth points of the shoot, after the scissors we take a pruner and remove all remaining stumps. If they are not removed, then drying out, the remaining stumps will spoil the view.
You can only cut with secateurs, carefully cutting all the shoots to the desired height on the “outer” leaf
Removal of stumps on the vesicle 
Vesicle after pruning In May, you need to prune the branches that have not blossomed and spoil the crown with their appearance. For example, the little elm Jacqueline Hillier. Every year it has a large mass of frozen shoots.
Elm small Jacqueline hillier - removal of dried shoots Perennial cutting of dead shoots takes a long time, but gives the elm a peculiar topiary shape.
Living walls are well obtained from hawthorn. Blood red hawthorn grows quite slowly. For the season - one or two haircuts, but it takes years to create a wall
In conclusion, I would like to repeat once again that the shearing of any plants is an annual, laborious, creative process. If you have started, then it is no longer possible to skip the stages of formation. Therefore, before the start of formation, it is necessary to evaluate your strength, time, desire.
