April in the yard, in the yard - Istanbul. I tell, I show - without edits, everything is on my knee, otherwise everything is upside down - tomorrow I'm leaving for Bulgaria.

The Golden Horn Bay cuts the center of Istanbul into two parts. To the south of the bay is Sultanahmet, historical Constantinople with its top attractions and masses of tourists, in some places noticeably outnumbering the local population, and to the north is secular Beyoglu with its always busy Istiklal Boulevard and narrow lanes running to the sea. There are also many tourists here, but the local rhythm of life is so strong that visitors voluntarily or involuntarily obey it. In fact, it's comfortable for everyone.

I have already been to Constantinople, I have also been to Beyoglu - I knew what to choose from. I settled in the Chambers of the Boheme hostel (available on booking.com, http://goo.gl/maps/qpiJq), a 30-second walk from Istiklal (http://goo.gl/maps/lYQsE). 12 euros for a place in a dorm for 12 people. Satisfied. There is no heat, + 13-23 during the day in early April, so it's voracious - about 25 lira per day. There will be an addition to the link.

Istiklal

Nobody is in a hurry. Whether it's raining or sunny, thousands of Istanbulites flock to Istiklal to parade back and forth, sit in a cafe, drink Turkish tea, smoke a hookah, play backgammon.

And with the onset of night, Istiklal is captured by concentrated electronic rhythms - here, in addition to everything else, there is also a center nightlife Istanbul.

Istiklal - Europe. Not a synthetic Europe for tourists, but purely its own, Turkish. Just a few kilometers away, behind the Ataturk bridge in the alleys of the former Constantinople, everything is imbued with Islam, but here, in Beyoglu, it’s like another country.

However, once it was so: before the appearance of the Ottomans, the Genoese city of Galata stood to the north of the Golden Horn, and the Byzantine Constantinople to the south. The Venetians also built here, and the Ottomans, apparently, never wanted to dissociate themselves from the European; successor Ottoman Empire, the Republic of Turkey, went even further into Europe. Whether this somehow affected Beyoglu or the land itself is saturated with a special, irresistible European spirit, it is not clear.

In the Istiklal region, there are even more functioning churches than mosques. One of them is Ayia Triada, a Greek Orthodox church.

Church of Sant'Antonio di Padova

Another church in Istiklal is Sant'Antonio di Padova (Church of St. Anthony of Padua, http://goo.gl/maps/8abRv).

According to some reports, the largest active church ().

A certain Mr. Roncalli, the future Pope John XXIII, served here for 10 years. A friend of the Turkish people - this is how the plaque under the monument characterizes him. On weekdays, masses are held at 8:00 am in English, at 7:00 pm in Turkish, and on weekends also in Polish and Italian.

And here is the local Jesus. Amazing statue!

And this is the 61-meter Galata Tower (http://goo.gl/maps/m1WZa), built by the Genoese in the 14th century. One of the main landmarks in Istanbul - visible from almost everywhere from the center.

They take the elevator here for 13 liras (about 6 euros). Hundreds of tourists a day - more income than from an oil rig.

The area under the tower is also remarkable - always lively, always in good mood. Genius place.

On the banks of the Golden Horn

Attractions, no matter how many there are, can be seen for a certain period of time. Beyoglu, as well as the whole huge, many-sided center of Istanbul, is good because you can always find something new here - hundreds of lanes and streets, and almost every one has something interesting.

The whole Beyoglu is full of curious details, full of taste - people have been putting their souls into this corner of the world for centuries, and it is felt.

The Galata Bridge is thrown across the Golden Horn (http://goo.gl/maps/a9Jqf), leading to "Constantinople". On the right is a small fish market (http://goo.gl/maps/ChGSr), traders and birds waiting for fish giblets scream here.

The Galata Bridge is buzzing under the wheels of cars and trams, hundreds of tourists, hundreds of locals, fishermen throw fishing rods with long fishing lines, and between the water and the road there is another tier filled with fish restaurants, and all these fishing lines from somewhere above sparkle in the rays of the sun, and people feel good: there is winter in Istanbul too, and it is over.

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Istanbul is a city of many faces with its own rhythm, sounds, smells and even a special pink color. This city leaves no chance: either you fall in love with Istanbul, or you hate it from the first time. We somehow got along right away: stepping on the Eminonu embankment, I felt - this is my city, with all its noise, dust and bustle.

For the first time, be sure to plan the main sights: marvel at the size of the ancient Hagia Sophia, sit on the carpet in the Blue Mosque, go down to the Yerebatan cisterns, climb the Galata tower.

It's traditional a tourist route, and not seeing all this in Istanbul would be an unforgivable mistake. I still cannot forgive myself that I came too late to Istiklal Street and did not find the famous Istanbul tram - it was already night and it had finished running along fashionable mansions and shops. Three years later, I returned, but the rails were cut, the tram was driven to the depot, and when it starts working again, only God knows (no, rather Allah is his jurisdiction).

And yet, when you come to Istanbul for the second and third time, you can go here endlessly, there is always something else to see, you want to dilute your trips to museums with something special, to see non-postcard views and places where Istanbulites like to visit and bring their friends and acquaintances.

Karakoy - hipster Istanbul

For those who love cafe gatherings, street art in abandoned houses, art galleries and hipster hangouts, there is a place in Istanbul where the concentration of all of the above just rolls over.

The Karakoy area is located in Beyoğlu between the Galata Bridge, the Museum of Modern Art, Kemeralti Street and the Bosphorus.

What to do in Karakoy? Drinking coffee in one of the cafes, wandering through the alleys in search of graffiti, listening to street musicians, hanging out in a pub, in general, it will definitely not be boring here. And, of course, the atmosphere!

Kadikoy and Moda quarter - parties, restaurants and bohemia

Having sailed on a boat to the Asian part of Istanbul, you find yourself in a completely different city. There are also mosques here, few tourists, although there are enough backpackers - there are hostels and hotels on every corner. Many cafes and cozy restaurants are adjacent to a small market, including a fish market, where you can taste the freshest fish and shrimp right on the spot.

Little attention is paid to tourists here, everyone is in a hurry, especially when you approach the pier, from where boats leave for the European part and other areas of Asian Istanbul, there is also a bus station and dolmush go to different areas.

At the Kadikoy pier, there is a concentration of banks, Turkish fast food - the usual Simita bagels and "fish burgers" - Balyk Ekmek (by the way, they are here one and a half times cheaper than on Eminonu and I liked the local version of fish with salad in pita, and not in thick bun), fresh juices from oranges and pomegranates, kofte in buns. Food fairs are regularly held, where the variety of street food simply rolls over - if you don’t buy something, you can try cheeses, dried fruits and nuts, pastries different types and varieties and of course Turkish sweets. And do not forget to drink ayran - it is sold in cups and bottles, a straw is attached - we pierce the aluminum membrane and drink ayran on the go.

Unlike the old city - the Fatih or Beyoglu districts, Kadikoy has a completely different atmosphere. Going deep into its streets, you find yourself in the concentration of a huge number of bars, restaurants, bookstores, music shops, fashion boutiques and tattoo parlors.

During the day it is quite quiet here, but in the evening the parties begin: people migrate between bars, drink beer right on the streets, music flows from every institution. If you settle in one of the local hotels or hostels, do not expect silence: the hum of voices, the roar of music will not let you fall asleep until the morning.

The Moda quarter and the embankment that surrounds it adjoins the party streets and is generally confusing - the question arises: where am I? in Europe or Asia? Apartment buildings of 3-4 floors, mansions overlooking the sea, front gardens and expensive cars. The locals are decorously walking along the embankment, walking their dogs, breathing the sea.

Ships no longer moor at the Moda pier - there is a restaurant in the building, but it is so beautiful that it has become an adornment of the embankment. I can't believe that bars are occupied around the corner and in the evening you have to squeeze through people to go through the streets among the bars.

We lived in this area for several days - and once again I want to return.

Istanbul Sapphire - look down

This place is definitely from the category of must visit - the highest point in Istanbul. Sapphire is a skyscraper located in the Levent district, with a height of 238 meters and 54 floors. On the upper terrace there is an observation deck where a high-speed elevator leads. The view from there is stunning - in clear weather, most of Istanbul is visible: the bridges over the Bosphorus light up at dusk, thousands of cars drag in traffic jams at rush hour, small and big houses, between them there are old cemeteries and mosques, adjacent to business centers, sports grounds and squares. It is interesting to watch how planes take off over Sapphire - literally every 2 minutes a liner flies from Ataturk Airport.

Café Vista on the observation deck is available for a glass of tea or a meal if desired. It's a pity that when it's filming time, the cafe lights are reflected in protective glasses observation deck. Information for photographers: security prohibits the use of monopods and tripods (this was the case in the spring of 2017 after the Istanbul terrorist attacks). But you can use a spider tripod by attaching it to the back of a chair. I highly recommend this place to visit - a very impressive picture opens from Sapphire.

Kuzguncuk - openwork of wooden houses in Istanbul

Another area on the Asian side of Istanbul is Uskudar and its stunning Kuzguncuk quarter with carved wooden houses. Non-touristic, but so cozy - the best place for breakfasts over the Bosphorus, walks and photo shoots.

Bright wooden houses sat down on steep streets, some of which are exclusively pedestrian - like the slopes in Montmartre.

And cafes with bright awnings add even more resemblance to the Parisian district.

Slowly drinking tea and coffee, Istanbul residents squint their eyes from the blinding spring sun.

Surprisingly, Kuzguncuk is considered one of the tolerant districts of Istanbul: a Christian church, synagogue and mosques coexist here. Another reason to be surprised in multicultural Istanbul.

Eat at the fish market near the Galata Bridge

We looked at this place on our first visit to Istanbul. The fish market near the Galata Bridge is small, but quite famous. Previously, one could easily sit down at one of the tables covered with oilcloth, order Dorado or Grilled red mullet with salad and watch how the boats moored at the Karakoy pier. And as the sun, setting over the horizon, paints the Golden Horn Bay pink.

Now, at the place where the tables stood by the water, some kind of construction is going on (they seem to want to make an embankment and a park). And the market was brought to life and a decent fish cafe was made on its territory.

Everything has become more expensive, but always delicious. It is more pleasant and interesting for me to eat fish here together with the locals than in fish restaurants on the Galata Bridge. In the market, no one looks at you ingratiatingly: they just give you the usual laminated menu in a dozen languages, and fifteen minutes later they serve happiness on a plate - very tasty, piping hot :)

70

It is no secret that Istanbul is on the list of the most visited tourist cities in the world. Every year, millions of travelers come to see the last capital of the Ottoman Empire.

Those who are in Istanbul for the first time should remember that seeing the city in one trip is an unbearable task, but getting to know the heritage of one of the popular areas is a completely doable task. Most often, acquaintance begins with the Sultanahmet district, where the unique Blue Mosque and the unique historical monument - the Hagia Sophia Museum are located, or with Beyoglu - the entertainment center of Istanbul. It is about its interesting places and sights that are definitely worth a visit, we will tell in this article.

Usually, a trip to Beyoglu begins with Taksim Square - a landmark for all tourists, not only in the area, but throughout Istanbul. Next to the square is a street where shuttle buses arrive from the city's airports. There is also a metro station and ground transport stops, which means that from here you can get to anywhere in Istanbul and return back.

It is from Taksim Square that the legendary pedestrian street Istiklal (Turkish: İstiklâl Caddesi) originates, which once bore the not-quite-Turkish name Grand Rue De Pera. Thousands of people walk along it every day: locals and tourists come here to shop in an endless number of shops. The street itself resembles an open-air museum of European architecture. Here you can just walk and look at the buildings built in the neoclassical, modern and art nouveau styles. On both sides of Istiklal, the facades of various consulates delight the eye, educational institutions and passages. Be sure to check out the Flower Passage (tour. Çiçek Pasajı), where white emigrants who left Russia because of the 1917 revolution traded flowers a century ago in search of at least some kind of income.

Almost at the very beginning of the pedestrian street, a little hidden from the crowds of people, stands one of the largest Orthodox churches Istanbul - Holy Trinity Church, built at the end of the 19th century. You will notice its majestic dome and two bell towers from Taksim Square. The church is active and services are held in it. In the heart of the former Grand Rue De Pera, there is another church - the Catholic Basilica of St. Anthony of Padua. This magnificent building will be of particular interest to connoisseurs of architecture.

At the end of Independence Street, as İstiklâl is translated from Turkish, you should definitely look into another historically important place. It is underground. This is a tunnel through which it is easiest and fastest to get from the Beyoglu region to Karakoy. The tunnel is one of the oldest in the world. It functioned even during the Ottoman Empire. The construction of the underground path was completed in the second half of the 19th century. Today, a modern funicular trailer runs there, thanks to which you will cover a distance of half a kilometer in just two minutes.

For art lovers, the Beyoglu district has prepared two valuable gifts. This is the museum-gallery of Pera, located on Meshrutiyet Street (tur. Meşrutiyet Caddesi). It houses a collection of paintings by prominent Ottoman, Turkish and European masters. The most valuable of them is a painting by Osman Hamdi Bey called "Turtle Trainer", which the founders of the museum purchased for $3.5 million in 2004.

Next to the Pera Gallery is the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, which has several exhibition halls, a library, and a cafe. It also hosts various educational activities. The museum has been located in the Beyoglu district since the beginning of this year. He found a temporary home here, having moved from the Karakoy region. He will return back to the shores of the Bosphorus in a few years, when a new luxurious building will be built for the museum.

Another iconic place This is the Pera Palace Hotel. It was built in 1892 to accommodate the passengers of the famous Orient Express, a luxury train that carried the world's elite from Paris to Istanbul. At the time of opening, it was the most luxurious hotel in the capital of the Ottoman Empire with such benefits of civilization as hot water, electricity and electric lift. Among the famous guests of the hotel are the British King Edward VIII, the "father of the Turkish nation" Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, Alfred Hitchcock, Alexander Vertinsky, Joseph Brodsky, Leon Trotsky, Ernest Hemingway, Mata Hari. Agatha Christie also loved to stay at this hotel. It is believed that this is where she wrote her famous novel, Murder on the Orient Express.

Pera Palace is a functioning hotel to this day. To enjoy the luxurious interior of the legendary hotel, to feel its unique spirit, it is not necessary to fork out for a five-star room. You can just have a cup of tea or coffee in the lobby, where the elite of the Old World and the Eastern shahs once rested.

Don't forget to visit perhaps the most famous building in Beyoğlu, the famous Galata Tower, built in the 14th century. Her silhouette is one of the most iconic symbols of Istanbul. From the top of the medieval landmark, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire city.

Of course, this is far from full list all the pearls of Beyoglu. You can completely devote your whole life to this area, gradually discovering the mood of its lanes, studying the unique history of buildings and their former residents, getting acquainted with souvenir shops and antique shops.

Ekaterina Kislyak, writer and photographer, especially for MK-Turkey

But not everywhere you can find a street where Catholic churches and nightclubs, museums and cinemas, an old lyceum (with a competition of more than 1000 people per place!) And an ancient tower of the Ottoman Empire, where Asian and European styles in architecture are combined, and you can feel the spirit of the times .

A tram from 1871 is still functioning here and a unique metro line with only two stations has been built, a street through which about 3 million people pass every day!

Welcome to Istiklal - the heart of the Beyoglu region and the place A must visit in Istanbul!

The history of the appearance of the street begins during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (are there fans of the TV series “The Magnificent Age” among my readers? Istiklal began to be built up precisely at that time).

In the 17th century the street connected the Galata Tower and the Galata Palace, at the same time embassies of other countries began to appear on the street, churches were built, the street bore the title of Main Avenue. At the beginning of the 20th century Turkey declared itself a Republic, and the street was renamed to its current name, which means "Independence Street".

In 1955 the street was seriously destroyed during the Istanbul pogroms and was in decline until the 90s. Now the street is being renovated, historical buildings are being restored, many shops, restaurants and cafes are open.

2. Where is it located and how to get there

Istiklal Street originates at Taksim Square and goes towards. We walked from the Galata Tower, so at first we walked a little along the street Şahkapısı Sk, and then ended up on Istiklal.

Location on the map and our route:

There are several ways to get to Istiklal, depending on where you plan to start the journey and where you are going.

2.1. Walking route from Sultanahmet

In principle, if you live in or Beyoglu, you can walk to Istiklal. A very beautiful route goes from Sultanahmet along the Galata Bridge, through the Galata Tower and to Taksim Square. There you can already take a bus or metro and get to another area. We got there in this way, but we were very tired, because. It took quite a long time to walk. But if you do not have heavy suitcases and / or small children, then the method is great!

2.2. Public transport

You can also get to Istiklal from Sultanahmet by high-speed tram T1 to the Kabatash station, then transfer to the funicular and get to the Taksim station.

From other areas you can get to Karakoy station (also by light rail). From the stop you can take the funicular or walk.

You can also get to Taksim by metro, the station is called Taksim.

2.3. Excursions in Istiklal

You can also walk along Istiklal Street as part of an excursion group. Plus - you will be told historical aspects and unusual facts, minus - the time of the tour is limited and other tourists will be on the tour besides you.

3. Photo walk

The famous historical red tram, which has become the hallmark of Istanbul, you can still ride on it, the route is from Taksim Square to the Tunel metro station:

Some buildings are under renovation:

Even sellers of simits (bagels with sesame) stylized their carts as a historic tram:

The beginning of Istiklal Street (from the side of the Galata Tower):

Immediately we meet the Consulate General of the Russian Federation, built in 1838 - 1845, according to legend, it was built on Russian soil, which was specially brought in by ships. True or not, we will never know, but the fact that the building was recognized as a monument of palace architecture is a fact!

Unfortunately, the street is not monitored, so in some places it looks so unsightly:

Again we meet the tram, it turns out that you can ride not only inside, but also outside:

Catholic Church of St. Anthony of Padua:

Entrance to the territory is absolutely free:

Statue of John XXIII, who preached in the church in the 30s of the XX century:

name plate on different languages. It is interesting how the same name is pronounced in different languages ​​- Giovanni, Jean, John:

The interior of the church:

Inside the church:

Monument 1923-1973:

To be honest, I did not find any information about this monument (1923 - the year of Turkish independence), if you know what it is dedicated to, share it in the comments!

The street is decorated with flags:

Flower passage, an architectural monument, built in 1876 on the site of the theater. Initially, the shops here were located on the 1st floor, the remaining floors were occupied by residential apartments.

Now the first floor is occupied by shops and restaurants, so you can dine in historical place while admiring the French architecture in the center of Istanbul.

Istiklal is not only full of historical monuments, here you can also watch performances of street musicians:

On the Galata Bridge, on foot or by tram, we got to the other side of the Golden Horn, where the Beyoglu quarter or ancient Pera or modern Karakoy stretched. Once upon a time, fig trees grew here, hence the name.

Galata- the historical core of the Istanbul quarter of Beyoglu.

View of the Galata tower.

Karakey.

Karakey. Istanbul.

The town of Galata was a center mainly for merchants from Genoa. At that time, there was a stormy movement of ships between the two banks, and in order to protect themselves, the Genoese in 1348 built Galata tower.

Galata tower. Istanbul. Turkey.

The tower was significantly damaged during the Fourth Crusade, repaired and enlarged in 1446. The height of the tower is 70 meters, its walls are about 4 meters thick, the outer diameter is 17 meters, and the inner diameter is 9 meters.
In the 17th century, the traveler and romantic Ahmed Celebi Hezarfen made artificial wings and jumped from the tower, he was able to fly over the Bosphorus and landed in Yuskyudar.
The tower now houses a restaurant. beautiful view.

Bankalar Caddesi- Avenue of the Banks, during the Ottoman period was the financial center of Galata.
In 1453, when the Ottomans attacked Constantinople, Pera remained a neutral territory. Later, the expanded Istanbul swallowed up Galata and Peru.
The area is characterized by narrow, steep streets and Libertarian architecture.

Let's go underground Funicular Tunel in Beyoglu on Istiklal street.
The funicular was built in 1875, it connects Karakoy with Beyoglu and rises to a height of 573 meters.

*To get from Sultanahmet to Taksim, you need to take a tram to the Karakoy stop, then climb the Tunel or walk. The second option: take the tram to the final stop Kabatas (Kabatas), then take the funicular to Taksim Square.

Taksim Square- This is the center of modern, lively and crowded. The square got its name from the central distribution (taksim) of water located here during the Ottoman Empire. Nowadays, various ceremonies and meetings take place here.
In the center of the square is the Monument of the Republic, erected in 1928 by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. It is curious that on the right side of the stone figure of Ataturk are Kliment Voroshilov and Mikhail Frunze, installed as a token of gratitude for the military assistance of Soviet Russia.
From Taksim Square stretches the famous Istiklal Boulevard (Istiklal Caddesi)- Pedestrian area with many shops, cafes, restaurants and clubs. Most of the buildings on the boulevard were built in the Art Nouveau style, belong to late XIX V.

As for shopping, on Istiklal Boulevard there are numerous shops of democratic Turkish and European brands. You can’t find special design delights here, then well-known brands are represented.

Old tram.

Streets of Beyoglu.

Streets of Beyoglu.

On Istiklal Boulevard is the most famous Catholic church - Church of St. Anthony of Padua.

Church of St. Anthony of Padua.

Taksim and Pera are the heart of Istanbul's nightlife, there are many clubs, restaurants and cafes, and a crowd of young people flock here every evening and night in search of entertainment.