How to change the wick in a Zippo lighter? Wick for a kerosene lamp How to properly replace the wick in a Zippo lighter

We ask you to familiarize yourself with the most frequently asked questions of our customers. If you did not find the answer to your question, Contact us .

Answers to frequently asked questions

How can I repair my lighter?

The official representative of Zippo in Russia - the company "Avancorp" provides a full range of services for the warranty service of your Zippo* lighter. For free warranty repair of your lighter, you must provide it to us in any way convenient for you:

Send a lighter by Russian Post to the address: 127015, Moscow, st. Vyatskaya, house 27, bldg. 5 (for Avancorp LLC)
Bring it to us at the address Moscow, st. Vyatskaya, house 27, bldg. 5, 4th floor (company secretariat)

Make sure that the lighter is provided with the necessary explanations about the malfunction (the sooner the master identifies the problem, the sooner the lighter will be returned to its rightful owner). We will send the lighter back by Russian Post in as soon as possible and at your own expense!

*Please note that recovery appearance Lighters are not covered by the Zippo Lifetime Warranty.

Why does the date of manufacture of the lighter not coincide with the date of manufacture of the insert block ("insert")?

There is a strong, but, alas, erroneous opinion that the year and month of the lighter's production (an imprint on the bottom of the case) and a similar date on the wall of the insert block ("insert") must match, and this indicates the originality of the lighter. But this opinion is false, since the production of plug-in blocks and lighter cases takes place on different production lines, and the combination of these two parts is carried out by a picker. In this case, in frequent cases, there is an "overlap" of dates and this results in a mismatch, which in no way affects the originality of the lighter.

Why does Zippo lighter fuel evaporate so quickly?

Zippo's premium lighter fuel is a petroleum distillate that evaporates even when the lighter is not in use. Keep the lid closed. To reduce evaporation, store the lighter away from bright sunlight and heat sources such as a radiator. Tip: If you haven't used your Zippo lighter in a while, fill it up anyway if you're planning a field trip.

Can you polish a lighter?

You can clean the surface of your lighter with a soft cloth and a special cleaner. Before using the lighter, make sure you have wiped off all the product and all the gas has dissipated. Brass lighters can be cleaned with a high quality brass cleaner following the manufacturer's instructions. Sterling silver can be cleaned with a high quality silver cleaner.

How do I refuel my windproof lighter?

Refuel the lighter away from sources of fire and flame.

Get it inner part case lighters. Pry up the corner of the felt pad on the bottom of the insert so that the cotton balls are visible.
Slowly soak cotton balls with Zippo fuel. Try to be careful to avoid overfilling. When overfilled, fuel will leak out. Avoid skin contact with fuel as it is an irritant. If it does come into contact with skin, wash thoroughly with soap and water. If irritation persists or gets worse, see a doctor.
Insert the inner part into the body of the lighter, wipe the entire surface of the lighter so that no fuel remains on it. Wash your hands before lighting. Make sure the canister is closed and there is no spilled fuel near you. Fuel is highly flammable.

If you keep your Zippo lighter in your pocket, we recommend that you carry it in vertical position, bottom side down, especially after the first refueling, especially if it turns out to be overfilled.

Why is the smell of Zippo fuel different from what was previously suggested?

Zippo Premium Fuel (Zippo Premium Lighter Fluid) and Ronsonol are formulated with a new formula that produces less odor. The new fuel burns cleaner, ignites faster and is less irritating to the skin.

Why does Zippo offer both lighter fuel and butane?

Zippo Premium Lighter Fluid is a premium fuel for Zippo windproof lighters. Zippo Premium Butane is only used in Zippo BLU® and Zippo Utility lighters.

How to change the wick in my windproof Zippo lighter?

When blackness appears on the wick, pick it up with tongs and pull it out until the unused clean part of the wick appears. Cut off the tip of the wick at the top of the windshield, and straighten the wick. The wick can only be cut twice before it needs to be replaced.

To replace the wick, use tweezers to remove all of the cotton balls from the combustion chamber. Insert a new wick by guiding it downwards through the windshield, pushing it through with tweezers.

Insert the cotton balls into place, wavy laying the wick in the intermediate layers of cotton. Don't forget to trim the wick to match the height of the windshield.

Why does my Antique Brass coated ZIPPO lighter wear out?

The finish of the Antique Brass lighter can be worn. This is due to the presence of copper impurities in the coating, which tends to oxidize and fade. This property is a feature of this model and is not a defect.

How often do I need to change the wick in my lighter?

Depends on frequency of use. Change the wick when the lighter does not burn properly or after you have cut the wick twice.

Do silicon need to be changed?

Yes, on average silicon needs to be changed every few weeks.

How do I change the flint in my Zippo lighter?

Remove the inside of the lighter from the body.
Turning the insert over, you will see the head of the screw that holds the spring that fixes the flint. Carefully unscrew the screw using a small screwdriver or a coin (be careful not to lose the spring).
Turning the inside of the lighter to the right again, remove any remaining flint (if any) by gently tapping the inside of the lighter on a hard surface.
Insert new Zippo flint into the deep hole you removed the spring from (the brass tip at the end of the spring is not flint).
Reinsert the spring, then tighten the screw. Insert the inner part into the body of the lighter.

Can I buy a flint spring or felt lining for my lighter?

Replacement parts are not sold, but we exchange them for new ones, if necessary. Usually, during warranty repairs, the master identifies problems and determines the need to replace a single replacement part or the entire internal part.

Does it matter if I use genuine Zippo or Ronson products to fill my lighter?

Of course it matters! The fuel, butane, wicks and silicas of Zippo and Ronson are specially made for the best performance of our products. This means that the products spend more time in your hands than in the repair shop.

Can I purchase the inside or body of a Zippo lighter separately?

The individual components of the Zippo Windproof Lighter are not sold separately.

Give troubleshooting tips. What can I do to get my lighter working again?

Make sure the wheel generates sparks. If not, replace flint. Use only genuine Zippo fuel, flints, and wicks for the best performance of Zippo lighters. Also suitable for use are fuels, silicon and wicks purchased from the USA, Canada or Mexico. The soft material used in some non-Zippo (or Ronson) lighter flints can clog the wheel, making it difficult to light the flame. Make sure the lighter is filled with fuel. If it is filled and the flame does not ignite, check the wick. Trim it and replace if necessary. Make sure the wick is properly mixed with the pieces of cotton (filling) located in the inside of the lighter.

Can I bring my lighter on board the aircraft?

If you are traveling outside of the United States, please check with your airline's regulations or the regulations of the country to or from which you are flying before flying. On all domestic flights and most international flights, 1 windproof lighter is allowed in your checked baggage. On all US domestic flights, up to 2 pre-filled, appropriately packaged windproof lighters are allowed in checked baggage. New, never refilled lighters can be carried in checked baggage without restrictions.

What is the warranty on Zippo windproof lighters?

Every Zippo windproof lighter can be returned under our famous lifetime/lifetime warranty, "It works or we fix it free." For information on how to send your Zippo lighter to us for repair, please click here.

Pyrotechnics, both large and small, have long been an integral part of almost any holiday. Moreover, we are talking not only about fireworks, but also including sparklers, crackers and firecrackers.

The key to safety when using pyrotechnics is, first of all, strict adherence to the operating instructions. However, there are situations when it is necessary to improvise in order for the holiday to really succeed. For example, a purchased firecracker has a too short wick, and it is dangerous to use it, but I really want to. Then there is a way out: make a wick for firecrackers with your own hands.

There are several ways to do this. The difference in them mainly lies in the choice of combustible substance.

Therefore, each method has its own characteristics:

As a cord, you can use insulation from wires or a rod from a pen that has run out of ink. We fill the wire with sulfur, removed from the match heads and crushed into powder. We tamp the filling well with a needle or toothpick. Be careful as the force of friction can cause an accidental fire. The denser the sulfur is packed, the longer the wick will burn.
In order not to grind the sulfur heads, you can simply gently break them off and lay them in a row on adhesive tape. Then roll the tape into a tube so that the sulfur is inside. The more heads, the longer the cord.
Ordinary thin rope can be soaked in a solution of saltpeter, which can be purchased at a gardening store (this is a good fertilizer). Saltpeter will need to be dissolved in water to a good saturation, and then lower the cord there for several hours.
Combustible composition can be made from potassium permanganate and super-glue. These two components must be combined and mixed well. At first, the mixture will turn out to be liquid, but over time it will thicken to the state of plasticine. Roll the resulting substance into a thin sausage. Here is the wick for you.
In summer, poplar fluff is suitable for making a wick. Collect it, remember well and wrap it in a paper tube.

How to make a firecracker without a wick

You can independently make not only the wick, but also the firecracker itself. There can be several options for fillings: these are sulfur from matches, and saltpeter mixtures, and much more. If you understand chemistry, you can easily choose the right composition. The body is also made from improvised materials. It is possible to make it from cardboard, foil, small plastic jars ... It all depends on what effect you are counting on.

Making a firecracker without a wick is difficult, but possible. True, it’s not very clear why the wick is preventing you ... And there are much more ways to make it as it should be, rather than vice versa. But still there are such options.

Our faithful friends, matches, will come to our aid. We clean off sulfur from them, usually one whole box is enough. Then we carefully grind it into powder and pour it onto a piece of foil about 10x10 cm in size. Next, cut out the side of the box - phosphorus cherkash. We clean it from the remnants of paper. Cut into two or three parts and put to the sulfur powder. We wrap the foil to make a small square with a flammable core inside. Ready! In order for the firecracker to detonate, you just need to hit it with a hammer.

Another way is to use napkins, electrical tape, caps and small stones for making. First you will need to exfoliate the napkin. Cut the resulting thin part into eight equal squares. Grind the contents of the caps in the center of the cut out piece of napkin, and put the pebbles on top. Wrap the resulting mixture so that the shape of the firecracker resembles a small onion. For tightness, wrap the tail of the bulb with electrical tape. To detonate, throw your invention against a wall or throw it hard on the pavement.

And yet, we will include one in our list of recipes, how to make a firecracker with a wick and gunpowder. Take a piece of thick cardboard and roll it into a cylinder. Choose the parameters of the piece yourself, it will serve as a case for the future firecracker, respectively, it should not be very large.

On the one hand, we make a plug. It can be made from plasticine or the same cardboard. If you prefer the second option, coat it well with glue so that the plug stays in place at the right time. Next, we make gunpowder. It can be made from potassium nitrate, coal and sulfur. The proportions must be observed as follows: six parts of saltpeter, one part of coal and the same amount of sulfur. Mix all ingredients thoroughly. The quantity depends on the size of the case. We fall asleep our gunpowder inside the case and proceed to the manufacture of the wick. Any method can be used, but the option with a rod from a handle and sulfur from matches is still recommended.

The length of the wick should be such that you have time to move to a safe distance. We are preparing a plug for the other side of the case. We insert it and make a hole in it that matches the diameter of the wick. If it turned out more, we additionally wrap the wick with paper so that it is tightly fixed in the cap of the firecracker, and the design itself is airtight. Firecracker is ready.

Where can I buy firecracker wick

If you are not eager to make a firecracker or its components yourself, then you have a direct road to a pyrotechnics store. There, experienced salesmen will tell you which wick better fit for your product. Usually wicks and strings (for professional fireworks) are sold in skeins, meaning either mass use for big holidays, or cut off as much as you need.

In order not to make a mistake with the choice of the wick, decide for yourself how many firecrackers will go into action, and how far you will have time to move away from the moment of arson. If in doubt, ask a professional for advice. Let him give you comprehensive recommendations on exactly how many centimeters of wick you need to purchase. If you don't want to leave the house in search of the right product, online stores also have plenty to choose from. At your service there will always be a manager or administrator who will give you no less detailed information about the quantity, quality and cost.

The candle is one of the great inventions of mankind. For many millennia, it was necessary to somehow feed the burning lamps, pour melted fat or oil into them. Such a lamp had to be re-mounted every time. He smoked heavily, and the smoke had a persistent unpleasant odor. From all these inconveniences, the invention of a candle saved. Now, candle making is more of a wonderful hobby - a way to realize your creative potential. One of the difficulties on the way of mastering this revived craft is precisely the manufacture of the wick.

What is it and why is it needed?

Traditionally, a wick is a piece of fabric or thread of various thicknesses and weaving densities. Its material absorbs flammable liquid and helps it rise up. From the molten liquid, even more combustible vapors spread between the fibers of the wick fabric and around it. The wick is easy to set on fire, vapors and flammable liquid burn, illuminating the area around. But to set fire to the mass (oil or fat) into which the wick is lowered can be difficult, and sometimes impossible.

Thanks to the special design of the wick, kerosene or other highly flammable liquid (for example, alcohol) does not immediately ignite, and their combustion in more advanced burners can be controlled.

In a candle, the wick is impregnated with wax or paraffin. Thanks to the correct wick (material, density, thickness), the flame is even and illuminates the room without soot or flashes. Paraffin or wax gradually melts, turning into a liquid state, is absorbed into the fabric and fuels the flame with combustible vapors. So the candle gradually burns out, remaining stable enough not to melt completely.

Due to the correct selection of the diameter of the candle and the thickness of the wick, as well as its exact position in the middle of the candle, a long-lasting and reusable device is obtained.

What are they made of?

Wicks for oil lamps were made from any absorbent fabric of vegetable origin. Oil or fat was placed in a shallow vessel. At its edge, a twisted piece of fabric pre-soaked in the same flammable liquid was placed. For lack of a better one, they were, in general, tolerable lamps. However, they still had quite a few shortcomings. Firstly, such a bowl with a burning wick is difficult to move - it is easy to spill melted fat, and even more so oil. Secondly, the flame of such a lamp constantly smoked. And the fat also spread a very noticeable unpleasant odor. However, just such lighting fixtures often used by whalers in distress or Arctic explorers as early as the beginning of the 20th century.

For candles, wicks began to be made from a specially prepared thread or twine, also of vegetable origin. Unlike an oil lamp, combustible material now began to flow gradually, it became possible to choose the correct diameter and structure of the wick. In addition, the candle can be moved, although rather carefully so as not to extinguish the flame with a stream of air.

Wax (specially processed wax) is used to make a wooden wick for candles.- a torch, simply - a dried sliver. Of course, it must be specially prepared. The splint must be taken well dried, then it must be impregnated with wax and only after that rolled into wax. Such a candle, if all the parameters are chosen correctly, burns evenly and for a long time.

Modern candles can be equipped with a reusable wick. The candle and fuel material are burned, but the wick remains and can be used to make a new candle. The material for such, one might say, an eternal wick, is fiberglass. In this case, you have to replace the candle. This approach can be justified for decorative candles with a complex shape.

Sometimes a purchased candle also has to replace the wick. One of the reasons for the emergence of such a need may be non-compliance with the technology of preparing the wick, primarily its insufficient drying. It happens that this element does not quite correspond to the candle for which it was applied. For example, a thread that is too thick can form a ball of soot at the end and will smoke a lot. Or it turned out to be thin, and the flame is filled with melt.

To replace the wick, you need to prepare a small set of tools:

pointed pliers;
paper napkins;
wire;
you may need a soldering iron.

Most often, it is quite easy to remove the wick, you just need to hook the edge of the metal cup, which many candles have, or pull the protruding end of the wick. But there may also be difficulties. In this case you can use a heated wire, it must be held with pliers. And heat over the flame, for example from gas stove. The wire must be immersed in the candle at the point where the wick comes out, and then pulled out. Turning the cooling wire, remove it too. A new thread can be inserted into the hole formed. To do this, again, you can use a piece of wire. A new wick must be glued to it. The end free from the thread must be heated again and stretched through the candle, so that the glued thread takes the desired position. Next, it remains only to cut off the protruding ends. The wick should protrude 6–8 mm.

How to choose the thickness?

Nevertheless, cotton or linen thread has remained the main material for the wick for centuries. The selection of its parameters, as practice shows, is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

It is important to consider the thickness and structure of the thread. If it turns out to be too thin, the flame will be weak, such a candle will give little light. Too thick a thread will contribute to the formation of a large soot and, in addition to light, it will also smoke a lot, and the candle will burn out much faster.
The density of the material also matters. The space between the fibers during combustion must be filled with combustible vapors, it is they who support the flame. Yes, for wax candle you need a thicker, but less dense thread than a wick for a paraffin or stearin candle.
The diameter of the candle can also be a significant parameter influencing the selection of the wick. It would seem that a thicker candle should be equipped with a thicker wick. However, this is not the case at all. A strong flame will cause intense melting of the top layer of the combustible material of the candle mass, the wick will be heated by the melt and the flame will go out.

It is, of course, possible to correctly observe the ratio of the material and diameter of the candle with the indicators of the wick. In industrial conditions, where everything is standardized, errors are practically excluded. For various candles, a specially prepared thread of various knitting, thickness and density is supplied. But in the case self-manufacturing you have to go through the thorny path of trial and error.

How to do it yourself at home?

Cotton thread remains the most mastered material for candle wicks. It can be twisted, braided or crocheted, thus expanding the application options for different candle weights and candle diameters. Moreover, threads can be woven with different densities, and this, as mentioned above, is very important, since the molten masses from which candles are made behave differently.

For a candle with a diameter of 2 to 7 cm, a wick of 10–15 threads is usually used. If the candle diameter approaches 10 cm, 25 threads will be required. A product larger than 10 cm in diameter must be equipped with a wick of 30 threads.

When making a wick at home, of course, you will have to rely on your experience, which is not gained immediately. Like any hobby, candle making (and wick making in particular) requires patience.

When making a candle, it is important to place the wick clearly in the middle, otherwise the product will flow unevenly and burn out faster than required. It is convenient to use a plastic cup or any other hollow plastic product as a mold for casting. In this case, it is necessary to make a hole in the lower part and, after tying a knot on the wick, insert its second end into this hole from below. Pulling it out to the top of the future candle, fasten it by tying it to some spacer, for example, from a toothpick or pencil. Pour the melted candle mass carefully, trying not to move the wick.

The finished candle should be removed from the mold after the candle mass has completely solidified, it is quite simple to determine this by the temperature of the mold surface. While it is hot, it is better not to touch the candle.

Required impregnation

Creating a wick is not only about making a thread of the required density and thickness. In order for her to become a candle wick, she must be prepared for this. So that the wick does not burn out immediately, but performs its function, the thread must be impregnated.

In the case of a wax candle, impregnation with the same melted wax is sometimes sufficient. Wax is melted on fire in an enameled plate. The thread is placed in a plate and allowed to soak. The procedure must be repeated three to four times, until air bubbles no longer appear in the liquid wax. After that, it must be suspended until the wax is completely hardened. The thread for storage can be wound loosely on the bobbin, laying layers of paper. It is better to store in a cool place so that the wax does not spread. When necessary, you can cut off the pieces you need in length with scissors.

No matter how durable and reliable the Zippo lighter is, some of its parts need to be replaced periodically simply because of their natural wear and tear. The filter gradually burns out, the flint is erased and the fuel, of course, is consumed most actively. We decided to dedicate today's article to consumables associated with Zippo lighters.

Fuel

Any lighter needs refueling. Even if you refueled your Zippo a month ago and have only used it a few times since then, sooner or later you will find that there is no fuel left in the tank. The fact is that Zippo fuel is a distillate of oil, which tends to evaporate over time. Therefore, even an unused lighter will gradually become empty. To slow down the evaporation process, keep the lighter away from heat sources or in the sun, and keep the lid tightly closed.

If the lighter is actively used, then it will need to be filled somewhere every 200-300 ignitions. How much fuel consumption will be depends on how often you use the lighter and how long it stays lit.

What fuel should you use to fuel your Zippo? - Of course, it is best to take branded, Zippo Premium Lighter for ordinary lighters and Zippo Premium Butane for Zippo Blue gas lighters. It has been designed with all design features of these lighters and will provide a guaranteed result. If you find it difficult to find branded fuel, purchase Ronson products or any other premium fuel. Resist the temptation to save money and buy cheap, unknown Chinese brands, because such fuel often contains unwanted additives that can cause lighter malfunctions and even void your warranty.

How to refuel a lighter?

Refueling a classic lighter and filling a Zippo Blu lighter with fuel are somewhat different from each other. Let's take a look at both of these processes.

To refuel butane Zippo BLU necessary:

turn the lighter over so that the filling valve located in the center of the bottom is at the top;
place the nozzle of the fuel canister in the filling valve, make sure that it is firmly inserted;
squeeze the canister with a few sharp, confident movements, filling the tank with fuel;
turn the lighter upside down, returning it to its normal position, and wait at least a couple of minutes before using it, so that the fuel stabilizes and the vapors dissipate.

When doing this, make sure that there is no leakage of butane, and also that the fuel does not come into contact with the skin, because, reacting with air, it becomes scalding cold.

If, after refueling, the lighter still does not burn, a so-called vapor lock may have formed, i.e. Air bubbles have entered the sealed fuel tank. This happens, for example, if the lighter is not turned over before refueling.

To remove the vapor lock, turn the lighter upside down and bleed off excess air by depressing the intake valve with the tip of a small screwdriver or other sharp object. Be extremely careful during this operation. When you're done, move the lighter away from your face and fire sources and refill it with Zippo fuel.

For regular filling windproof Zippo, do the following:

remove the insert from the case ( indoor unit), turn it over;
at the bottom of the insert you will find a white felt pad. Bend back its corner to gain access to the filler in the fuel tank;
take the insert in one hand and hold the fuel canister with the other. Turn the canister upside down and, squeezing it, slowly fill the tank. Continue until the cotton balls inside are saturated with fuel;
do not overfill the tank, otherwise the fuel will flow out of the lighter;
make sure that fuel does not get on your skin, as it can cause irritation;
after filling, insert the insert back into the body;
make sure that there are no drops of fuel left on the surface of the lighter, on the table or on your hands, and only after that you can use the lighter.

Flints

Flints are another consumable item that needs to be replaced periodically. In Zippo BLU lighters, during normal use, they should be changed about once a month, in classic Zippo lighters - a little more often, about once every 3-4 weeks. The signal for replacement should be the state when the flint no longer strikes sparks or strikes, but not on the first try.

Flint replacement is carried out in this way:

Without trying to get the inner block (it is not removable in these lighters), pull up the flint wheel cartridge. To do this, grab the wheel-chair and pull it up with force.
Turn the cartridge over and unscrew the screw using a thin screwdriver or a regular coin. Make sure that the released spring does not fly off to the side.
Remove the remnants of the old flint and insert a new one in its place.
Tighten the screw and insert the cartridge into place (the toothed side should be turned towards the burner).

In classic windproof Zippos:

Remove the insert from the case and turn it over.
Loosen the screw holding the flint spring. Be careful - the spring can jump out quite abruptly.
Flip the insert back to its normal position and lightly tap it on a hard surface to shake out any remaining old flint.
Insert a new flint, replace the spring and tighten the screw.
Insert the insert into the body.

Wick

Windproof lighters also have a consumable item such as a wick. It is shortened quite slowly, but still requires periodic updating. When the wick in your lighter needs to be replaced, simply grab it with pliers and pull. Pull until the clean wick is the same height as the windshield, then cut. You can pull the wick out of the case twice, and then you need to replace it with a new one.

How the wick is replaced:

Take the insert out of the case, turn it over
Remove the felt pad and use tweezers to remove all filler from the fuel tank.
Insert a new wick from above by pushing it through the windshield and pulling it down with tweezers.
Fill the tank with small pieces of cotton, laying the wick in a "snake" between them.
Replace the felt pad and insert the insert into the housing.

As for the other components of the Zippo lighter - flint wheel, felt pad, flint spring, fuel tank filler - you will not find them for sale. But, as the manufacturer himself promises, if there is a need to replace any of these components, you can write a request through the contact form on the official website and get the required part for free. In addition, you can always send the lighter to the Zippo workshop for warranty service.

When your favorite accessory ceases to delight with a stable flame in the presence of a flammable liquid, it may be time to change. The same need is indicated by its disheveled tip. The procedure does not cause complications, but will require additional tools- tweezers, a small flathead screwdriver and scissors (better than nail scissors).

How to change the wick in a Zippo lighter - procedure:

We take out the insert (internal mechanism) from the metal shell, gently pulling it out by the outer part.
We unscrew the spring that clamps the flint (in the absence of a screwdriver, you can do this with the edge of the case).
We remove the armchair and the spring (usually inside the upper element of the product to avoid loss).
We remove the felt backing and spare flints (if any).
We take out cotton balls with tweezers and lay them out in the order in which they were laid.
We insert a new thread into the wick hole with the required length left in the upper part.
We fix the end of the wick with tweezers so that it does not fall out and put the cotton balls in the reverse order (the one that was taken out last is put first, etc.).
Between the cotton we skip the wick in a zigzag state (through each piece of cotton!).
If necessary, carefully trim the excess length of the wick.
We assemble the insert and (see instructions). We check the functioning of your favorite little thing and enjoy its impeccability.

How to reduce the frequency of wick changes

Replacing the wick in a Zippo is an inevitable process for owners who actively use a lighter, but you can try to minimize it. To do this, it is enough to fill the accessory only with flammable liquid from the manufacturer, in extreme cases, with highly purified fuel from third-party manufacturers. This will prolong the life of the wick and eliminate blackening, sooting, fluffing and unpleasant amber during burning.

A careless attitude, even for “eternal” Zipp lighters, is fraught with failure and the need to replace certain mechanisms. Branded products "love" a respectful attitude and native equipment. Otherwise, why even take an expensive device?