All photos from the article

The topic of this article is wooden Wall Clock. We will get acquainted with the history of the creation of solid wood mechanisms in our country and find out by whom and in what years the most remarkable structures were created. In addition, we have to get acquainted with the methods of making watches with our own hands - both on the basis of the finished mechanism of quartz watches, and from scratch, with the execution of all mechanics from.

Watches of the Bronnikov masters

Who was awakened by Herzen

Here are two seemingly unrelated facts:

• Writer Alexander Herzen, a colleague of the Decembrists and one of the theorists of the Russian revolution, back in 1834 was convicted "for singing libelous songs" and soon after that, in May 1835, exiled to the city of Vyatka;
• On March 31, 2001, a wooden watch by the Russian master Bronnikov was sold at the Geneva antique auction. The transaction price was a record for a watch movement - 34,500 Swedish francs. Unusual in this fact is that the mechanism of the clock (fully working, despite the age of one and a half centuries) was completely made of wood.

What do these two events have in common?

The very concept of exile in the years of Herzen's life meant only that the disgraced nobleman was removed from the capital, retaining his civil privileges and status. Shortly after moving to Vyatka, Alexander Ivanovich organized an exhibition of industrial products in it.

Note: the official status of the enterprise organized by the exiled revolutionary was confirmed by the fact that the co-founder of the fair was the Zemskaya Administration of the city (by today's standards, the municipality).

Herzen invited the most famous artisans of the city to exhibit goods of their own manufacture in order to stimulate the trade of urban industrialists with neighboring cities and regions of the empire. One of those who responded was a sixty-year-old woodturner Ivan Tikhonovich Bronnikov; his son, Semyon Ivanovich, helped him in his work.

The elapsed time, which is very significant in comparison with human life, has erased many details of events and their sequence. Much of what happened in the 19th century makes one only guess about its causes.

Here is a scattering of facts and their retellings from that time, related to history wooden clock from Vyatka:

• Prior to the very exhibition organized by Herzen, the father and son Bronnikovs specialized in the manufacture of boxes and caskets. Their calling card was wooden hinges made of birch burl - a special growth on the trunk of a birch, which is distinguished by exceptional strength, resistance to moisture and shock loads;

It is curious: a twenty-pound (slightly less than 10 kg) birch burl was then sold for 50 rubles. For comparison - for the same money at an agricultural exhibition, you could buy a thoroughbred sire or several cows.

• Once Semyon Bronnikov was shown the device of the clock mechanism of a pocket watch. They say that he was so shocked by its complexity that he immediately wanted to make his own version, but already from the material familiar to the master - from wood;
• The next few months, the master, whose products were in fair demand, practically abandoned the work that brought him earnings and spent all his free time on turning gears. Needless to say, the family was… shall we say, not very pleased with this development;
• The maniacal passion for watch mechanics gave a natural result - Bronnikov Sr. was handed over by his relatives to a psychiatric hospital. Of course, for his own good;
• A year later, after leaving the hospital, he secretly continued to work on the watch and after a while showed the public a working copy. The watch case had a diameter of three centimeters and contained no metal parts.

This article describes the process of a useful device that is in every home. Perhaps not even in a single copy. This is a wall clock. But these watches will be truly unique, as we will make them with our own hands. No one else in the world will have exactly the same watch. Similar - perhaps, but still, ours will be exclusive, one of a kind.

Tools and materials used by the author of the homemade product:

1. Quite a lot of self-tapping screws 32 mm long
2. Stud m6, threaded with screw-in end
3. Wooden table top, 200 mm wide
4. Black glossy paint
5. White craquelure paint
6. Clear acrylic lacquer
7. Screwdriver
8. Screwdriver
9. Sandpaper
10. Hacksaw
11. Pliers
12. Vise
13. Drill
14. Planer
15. Bulgarian

Manufacturing process.
First of all, we will need to draw a square with a side of 30 cm. After that, we draw our square into smaller squares with a side of 10 cm, so that in the end we get 9 squares. To do this, the author resorts to the help of a homemade thickness gauge, which shows itself perfectly.

Since this time sawing more than usual, the author decided to use a jigsaw. For lack of my own, I borrowed a jigsaw from my friend. Of course, it is quite difficult to get perfectly even cuts without using guides, but in this homemade product it is unprincipled, therefore, as they say, it will do.

Having filed nine blanks, we need to give them a marketable appearance. To do this, the author uses his own hand tool- grinding block. You can make such a simple device for yourself. Although it will be quite enough to use ordinary sandpaper. To fix a square wooden blank, the author uses a vise. The manual process of sanding nine wooden squares will take enough long time. To reduce it, use the power tool you have on the farm to process workpieces. At the output, we get just such one large square, which consists of 9 smaller squares.

Set it aside temporarily and move on to the studs. We fix the M6 ​​hairpin on the workbench using a vice. We will need to cut it into five-centimeter segments. In total, we need as many as 12 pieces for making wall clocks with our own hands. In order to somehow speed up the process, and in order not to mess with the tape measure, the author fixes the caliper by 50 mm and measures 12 segments. With the help of small pieces of masking tape, the author makes marks on a metal hairpin.

The segments measured in this way are cut off with the help of a grinder and also temporarily put them aside for the time being.

Next, you need to choose in which square the clockwork will be located. In other words, you need to choose a square that will be located in the center of the entire structure. This does not play a special role, since if all 9 squares were filed fairly evenly, and they were processed in the same way, then they will not differ much from each other. Well, except for the wood pattern. Yes, he is unique. In principle, any square can be the heart-keeper of our clock.

We begin to gut the selected square. Using a chisel, we pick out a recess in the center, in this case the clockwork case has square shape, therefore, we will make the recess square. We measure the case of the clock mechanism and hollow out a place under it in the tree, observing the dimensions. For this procedure, of course, a milling cutter would be useful, but since the author does not have one, he used a hammer and a chisel. Using these methods and using these tools, the author spent about an hour on this stage.

After that, in the center of our square, you need to carefully drill a hole. In this case, the diameter is 9 millimeters.

It is necessary to assemble our squares into a single structure on a flat and fairly solid surface. And with the help of a thickness gauge we make marks that will be useful to us for connecting blanks.

We will connect the blanks with the help of studs cut into pieces. Therefore, we drill a hole according to the marks. Next in drilled hole screw in the m6 studs.

Then we proceed to one of the most interesting parts of our homemade product - assembling all the squares into one.

When assembling, it seemed to the author at first that there was not enough rigidity, since he screwed the pin into each blank by only 1 cm.

To give rigidity to the whole structure, he marked out the central square. In each side, a hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled for an M6 stud.

Then you need to start putting numbers on the dial. We will not draw all the numbers, but only 3,6,9 and 12. Thus, we will paint only 4 squares.

Who does not like this form of numbers, you can use any, for example, Roman. And that, too, will look pretty good. The author drew the figures approximately, by eye. This is because at the next stage, when marking, they will take on the same shape and you will understand why.

Since, according to the author's idea, the numbers will be from self-tapping screws, he measured the diameter of the screw head. In this case, the size was 8 mm. It is not necessary to place self-tapping screws in a tight one, so we add another 1 mm on each side to the 8 mm diameter of the screw head. As a result, we get a distance equal to 10 mm.

Further, the author fixed the caliper to a position of 1 cm and thus applied the markings, which turned out, in principle, almost ideal. According to the marked marks, he drilled holes with a drill with a diameter of 3.3 mm to the depth of the middle of the countertop.

Having finished drilling holes for all the self-tapping screws, the author applied a base coat of black glossy paint.

On top of the base black layer, I applied a white craquelure layer of paint, which did not appear as intensely as I wanted. The simple fact is that the base layer would have to be applied two or even three times on a wooden surface.

Opening the boxes with the works sent to the competition, we found in one of them something that immediately aroused admiration, and we are sure that many will want to repeat this project. It is distinguished by its uniqueness, careful thoughtfulness of all elements and, undoubtedly, attractiveness. With the permission of the author of the project, we only slightly changed its proportions and design, so that its production became accessible to most of our readers, and we asked our craftsmen to make another sample. Now that all the subtleties of this work have become known, you can repeat it according to our descriptions.

Make blanks for the walls of the case

Having cut out all the side walls and details of the arch from one long board, you can be sure of the continuity of the texture pattern and the color match on the details finished hull.

Note. To make the texture pattern on the side walls and the top rounding look continuous, we sawed all the details sequentially from one board (see "Cutting diagram"). Onphoto A shows the side walls aligned before gluing and the details of the top after making bevels at an angle of 22.5 ° at their ends.

1. Take a board that is 1050mm long (we chose mahogany), cut to 29mm thick with both sides even, and then sawed to a width of 127mm.

2. Having filed one end of the board exactly at a right angle, saw off one side wall A. Mark its bottom end with the number "1" and draw an arrow that will point inside the finished case. Using cross cuts, separate four blanks 81 mm long for the details of the upper rounding IN, numbering them sequentially with numbers on inside. Sawing to the final length of the second side wall A and mark its lower end with the number "2" and an arrow pointing inside the future body.

3. Make four copies of the top part template IN. Use spray adhesive to attach them to the leading edge of each of the four blanks.

4. To make on details IN 22.5° bevels, using a miter saw with the stopper secured, file the bevels at the same ends of each piece. After rearranging the stopper, make bevels at the other end of the four parts.

Mill the lamellar nest in the middle of the end of the arch details.

5. Adjust the slat router stop to 22.5° so that the #20 slat seat is in the middle of the final thickness of the top pieces. B (photo B).(This position is marked with a line at the edges of the template.) Make sure that the pockets are made exactly in the middle of the width, and cut them into the bevels of each workpiece.

6. In a thicknesser machine, finish both side walls A up to a thickness of 19 mm, removing material from both sides. Set the slat router to this thickness and cut a #20 slat pocket at the top end of both walls midway through the thickness and width of the pieces.

Glue the blanks for the top and add the side walls

When gluing a multi-piece arch, position the clamps symmetrically and do not tighten them too much. Just enough to close the joints.

1. Make a fixture out of MDF or plywood (Fig. 2). Dry-assemble the blanks of the rounded top parts to make sure they fit snugly. (photo C). Apply glue, insert the lamellas into the slots and connect the blanks, aligning their edges. Do not tighten the clamps too much - it is only required that there are no gaps in the joints.

2. band saw remove excess material from both sides of the bond by cutting near the line. We used a new 6mm saw blade and set the machine table at exactly 90° to it.

3. Then, using an 80 grit abrasive, sand the arch to the contour lines so that its thickness becomes 19 mm. You can sand the arch by hand, but we recommend making the simple rig described in the Extra Long Sanding Drum article.

A pair of strap clips hold the body parts together. The parallelism of the side walls is provided by two temporary spacers.

4. Dry connect the side walls A with glued arch IN. Cut out two 127 x 165 mm spacers from the scraps, which will ensure that the back walls are parallel while you install the tape clamps (photoD). When the glue is completely dry, smooth the transitions from the arch to the side walls with the help of grinding.

Consider what is shown in (Fig. 3) the position of the tongues on the inner surface of the manufactured part of the body - one with an indent of 10 mm from the front edge of the parts, and the second at a distance of 6 mm from the rear edge. Select these sheet piles with a 6mm slot cutter mounted in the router table. At our cutter

The grooves on the inside of the finished part of the body should be cut with a slotted cutter in a counterclockwise direction.

5. Consider what is shown in (Fig. 3) the position of the tongues on the inner surface of the manufactured part of the body - one with an indent of 10 mm from the front edge of the parts, and the second at a distance of 6 mm from the rear edge. Select these sheet piles with a 6mm slot cutter mounted in the router table. In our milling cutter, the bearing that limits the depth of milling is located below the cutting elements. (photo E).

6. Now replace the slotted cutter with a rebate cutter and make a 3mm rebate 6mm deep around the perimeter of the front side of the side walls and the top of the cabinet.

To complete the case, add the bottom, front and back walls

Applying in drilling machine ring cutter-ballerina, reduce the speed, and use the stops to fix the workpiece.

1. From a 19 mm board, cut out a blank measuring 171 × 178 mm for the front wall WITH. Mark according to rice. 4 upper rounding and a hole with a diameter of 83 mm for the clock mechanism. Make a hole in the front wall with a ballerina cutter on a drilling machine (photoF). With a band saw, file the top of the workpiece along the radius and smoothly sand the edges of the part.

Note. If the watch mechanism has other dimensions, change the diameter of the hole in the front opening accordingly.

2. Install the rebate cutter in the router table and make a 12mm rebate with a depth of 6mm (Fig. 4).

3. Cut out the blank for the front pad D. Mill along the top and bottom edge of the 3mm radius fillet to form the profile shown in rice. 3. Glue the front trim to the bottom edge of the front wall, lining up the back sides of the pieces.

4. Cut out the back wall E from 6 mm plywood ("List of materials", rice. 1). Insert it into the tongue of the finished part of the body A/B and make sure the bottom edge of the piece is flush with the bottom of the sidewalls A. Do not glue the back wall to the body yet.

5. Insert the front wall with the adhesive strip C/D into the tongue of the assembled body part. Saw out thin laths-liners F and glue them in place (Fig. 3).

6. Cut out the bottom G. Mill 3mm radius rounds along both ends and leading edge top and bottom. To avoid chipping, first grind the ends of the part with a cutter.

7. Drill in the bottom G mounting holes with a diameter of 4 mm and countersink them (Fig. 1). Lay the case on the workbench and press the bottom against it from below, aligning it in the center. Through the bottom mounting holes, drill 2.8x13mm pilot holes in the bottom ends of the side walls. A. Attach the bottom to the body by screwing in 4.5x32 countersunk head screws.

8. Cut out the guide rails H For drawers. For safe operation, we used an anti-splinter insert and a pusher.

A simple device made from a piece of MDF with grooves allows four skids to be glued to the inside of the case at once, perfectly aligning them.

9. Make the mounting template shown in (Fig. 5.) Mark both of its edges with arrows pointing upwards so that you do not accidentally turn it over when installing the skids. Insert four sliders into the grooves of the template H (photoG) and lightly glue their open edge with glue. Insert the template with the slides into the body close to the bottom G and press it with clamps to the side wall A. Let the glue dry for a few hours and then glue the runners to the other wall.

10. Cut out the legs I. For safe processing of their ends and edges, set the minimum clearance around the cutter in the router table. To do this, attach a semi-circular cutter with a diameter of 12 mm to the collet and raise it above the surface of the milling table. Then position the rip fence so that it lightly touches the cutter blades. (Fig. 6). Lower the cutter below the table surface and lay a square piece of 6 mm hardboard measuring 300 × 300 mm on top of it, securing it with strips of double-sided tape. Turn on the router and slowly raise the rotating bit through the hardboard so that it protrudes 2 mm from the top. (Fig. 6). Mill semi-circular grooves along the ends and edges of each leg I.

11. Sand down the sharp ribs on the legs (Fig. 3). Glue the legs to the bottom G, placing them flush with the rear edge of the bottom and stepping back 6 mm from the front edge and corners.

Start making boxes

1. Cut out the front/rear J and side TO drawer walls. Install a 10 mm thick slotted disc into the saw and fix the wooden plate on the longitudinal stop. Move the stop close to the disk and fix it. Adjust disc offset and cut on front and back walls J folds 5 mm deep (Fig. 7).

2. Now fit a 6 mm slotted blade into the saw, move the rip fence and cut the tongues on the inside of the front, back and side walls J, K at the bottom edge (Fig. 7).

3. Saw the bottom L drawers. Dry-assemble the boxes to check the fit of all parts. Then glue the boxes, fixing them with clamps, and make sure they are square and not skewed.

4. To make partial tongues in the side walls of the drawers, fit a 6 mm diameter straight groove cutter into the collet of the router fixed to the table and set the milling depth to 6 mm. Position the rip fence of the router table so that the cutter is exactly in the middle of the side wall width K. Check the settings on a cut that is the same width as the side walls. Fasten a stopper on the longitudinal stop to the left of the cutter to limit the length of the milled tongue to 84 mm (photo H). Having made a tongue on one side wall, turn the box over and cut the same tongue on the other side.

Align the cutter precisely with the middle of the side wall and cut the tongues on both sides of the drawers without changing the settings.

5. Try on all the drawers in turn to the opening of the case and achieve their smooth movement by carefully grinding the guide rails. Drill in the center of each front wall J mounting hole for push button.

Finishing won't take long

1. If you like, you can tint the mahogany wood to make it a little darker. (We used General Finishes Antique Cherry.)

2. When the stain is completely dry, spray on two coats of semi-gloss varnish. (We used Deft Clear Wood Finish.) Lightly sand the first coat with #220 sandpaper and carefully remove any dust.

3. After the varnish has dried, install the knobs. Lightly wax the rails in the body to make the drawers move more smoothly. Install the battery in the clockwork and insert it into place.

• • DIY wall clock? Well, so what, you can also buy them in a watch store. Yes, you can, but only they will already be ready and it will not be easy to add something to them or change them. As for the watch with your own hands, imagine that you can put anything on them. Because there are no restrictions.
    • • 1. Workpiece. In my case, this is a sprat from a crowned tree. Where can you get it from? Very simple! You can find a phone number on the ad "tree crowning", call it and ask either for the sprat itself, or for it to be cut into blanks - circles, as shown in the figure. In my case, the diameter of the circle turned out to be 31 cm, and the thickness was 2.5 cm. How to determine what diameter you need? Buy a clockwork and follow it. The thickness of the workpiece plays a very important role, since it determines whether it is necessary to make a pocket for the mechanism or not. In my case, I did and it took quite a while. In order not to repeat my mistake, cut the workpiece to a thickness of no more than 1 cm. Also, most likely the tree will still be damp, which means that it may deform when it dries, so place the workpiece for 1 or 2 weeks in a warm, dry room. I even got a chip (see photo).
      • TOTAL for the cost of the material came out: 1,640 rubles (date 01. 03. 2015). These are my expenses, I think that for many they can be much lower because economic people have half of the above at home, or someone else’s costs may be higher. Share your information about this in the comments, it will help others to navigate.

DIY wall clock. from wood

DIY wall clock? Well, so what, you can also buy them in a watch store. Yes, you can, but only they will already be ready and it will not be easy to add something to them or change them. As for the watch with your own hands, imagine that you can put anything on them. Because there are no restrictions.

Do-it-yourself wall clock is original and creative, and most importantly, simple. Imagine how they make you happy every time you see them, how you hear the sounds of clockwork, how time works for you.

This is what our watch looks like. How about yours?

Decorating the wall of your room or hallway, do-it-yourself wall clock reminds you of another victory. After all, you made them yourself. Seeing friends, acquaintances, guests will probably take an interest in the watch, and say something like: “Mm, interesting, but where did you get them from?”. To which everyone will have their own answer. Perhaps they also want to make a wall clock with their own hands.

So, what do we need for a wall clock?

1 . blank. In my case, this is a sprat from a crowned tree. Where can you get it from? Very simple! You can find a phone number on the ad "tree crowning", call it and ask either for the sprat itself, or for it to be cut into blanks - circles, as shown in the figure. In my case, the diameter of the circle turned out to be 31 cm, and the thickness was 2.5 cm. How to determine what diameter you need? Buy a clockwork and follow it. The thickness of the workpiece plays a very important role, since it determines whether it is necessary to make a pocket for the mechanism or not. In my case, I did and it took quite a while. In order not to repeat my mistake, cut the workpiece to a thickness of no more than 1 cm. Also, most likely the tree will still be damp, which means that it may deform when it dries, so place the workpiece for 1 or 2 weeks in a warm, dry room. I even got a chip (see photo).

2. Clockwork. It can be purchased at almost any watch store or ordered online. I took a German in a store, it cost 400 rubles, the set included arrows and a battery.

German clockwork set includes hands and battery

3 . A ruler and a pencil are in every home, and anyone can buy them.

4 . Matchbox or burning device.

5 . A regular or stationery knife, the cost is from 85 rubles.

6. Glue on wood, cost from 65 rubles.

7. Lacquer transparent on wood, matte or glossy choose to your taste. I took a matte varnish, with a capacity of 1 liter, although 250 grams should be enough. The bank cost me 500 rubles.

8 . Screwdriver with a drill for wood with a diameter of 60-80 mm.

9 . Chisel and hammer.

10 . A brush on varnish, worth 85 rubles (it is advisable to take a thin one, so that it is easier to smear hard-to-reach places, cracks).

eleven . Black marker for coloring numbers. You can take any other color of your choice. The marker cost 95 rubles.

12 . A sheet of skins of large and small grains.

TOTAL for the cost of the material came out: 1,640 rubles (date 01. 03. 2015). These are my expenses, I think that for many they can be much lower because economic people have half of the above at home, or someone else’s costs may be higher. Share your information about this in the comments, it will help others to navigate.

Step 1. Our workpiece must be sanded and sanded so that the surface is smooth and pleasant to the touch. To do this, we use coarse-grained sandpaper, then, when the surface is smoothed, we grind it with fine-grained sandpaper.

Skinning

Step 2. We measure the middle, and drill a hole through which the base of the clockwork will pass.

Step 3. On the back side, we make a recess (pocket) for the clock mechanism, if necessary. How to do it? I made a lot of holes with an ordinary drill, and then knocked them out with a chisel and a hammer, then sanded the surface as best I could.

Step 4. We construct arrows from matches - numbers, then paint over them with a marker. You can burn it out with a burning device, or apply artistic cutting. In general, there are no restrictions!

I got such numbers) And what are yours?

Step 5. Measure out where the numbers should be and glue them on wood glue.

Step 6. We check how the clockwork fits and works, after which we begin to varnish. We varnish in 2 or 3 layers, depending on the varnish (read the instructions on the varnish can).

Step 7. We mount the clock mechanism, with self-tapping screws or glue it on glue.

W U A L

Congratulations, now you can be proud and see your wall clock on the wall of your house, apartment, office or cottage.

Comfort and coziness in our home sometimes depends on even the most small parts and elements. Even most interior designers agree that the most important attributes for getting comfort in the house are well-chosen curtains, original lamps, soft and chosen in the right shade, blankets, pillows, bath rugs and clocks.

This article will focus on a master class on how to decorate a clock at home yourself.

There are a large number of photos of watches on the Internet, most of them are made by famous designers, but making original watches at home is also not difficult.

There is, of course, one key and difficult moment - this is the installation of a mechanism on the watch for its operation, but the finished mechanism should be bought in a store and installed according to the instructions. But appearance future hours and its rest design completely depends on personal preferences and tastes.

Allocate a few modern technicians, which help to independently make watches in any style.

Decoupage watch style

A similar technique for designing and creating a wall clock involves working with a ready-made store template, where there is already a blank, the base of the hands and the finished mechanism. You can also purchase ready-made patterns on paper, special paints, glue and other decoupage elements.

The workpiece for the clock is done in this way: several times the base is covered with soil from acrylic paints, and polished at the end. The desired shade and texture is given to the base in the next step.

There is one trick - if you want to make an old-style clock with a shade that is scuffed, then the paint must be applied with a sponge.

Decorating a wall clock with your own hands is a process of bringing out the imagination and creativity of a person. You can stick special water stickers on the base. Or draw a preliminary sketch yourself and transfer it to the dial.

After that, the finished mechanism and arrows with numbers are already attached. After a series of actions, the clock created by your own hands will come to life and will give the house a special original look.

Quilling clock

Quilling is an arts and crafts process in which you work with straight strips of multi-colored paper of various widths. Such strips, as a rule, are twisted and glued to the surface, while creating the most varied patterns and pictures.

To create a clock using this technique, it is best to take a tree as the basis of the clock, since quilling elements can be well glued to it.

The color scheme should be in harmony with the interior of the room. After all, a bright clock will look ugly in a room made in a minimalist style. Therefore, the choice of shade is key moment in this case.

Most often, multi-colored quilling elements are used to create flowers, insects, trees, animals, berries, and so on.

Plaster clock

Ordinary gypsum tiles will serve well as the basis for future watches.

Romantic and reverent natures will surely find a large number of solutions for creating watches from this material.

Among professionals, such a tile is called a medallion. The mechanism of the future clock is attached to its back side. To make the product look more elegant and restrained, its surface should be covered with matte paint in light colors.

And, if you want some highlights, then glossy paint will do.

Note!

This material is most suitable for creating clocks in the bedroom. At the same time, shades are chosen - beige, pale pink, pearl, the color of coffee with milk, purple and so on.

Clock with wooden sticks

In this situation, you should have items such as sticks and quality wood, good glue, scissors, and a ready-made work clock with a flat surface in your arsenal.

Many small sticks of the same size should be cut out of wood, and then connected

If the sticks are applied to the base in two layers, then you can achieve a wonderful “explosion” effect, which looks luxurious and original.

Now you know how to make a clock at home. Watch self made Ideal for kitchen, living room and bedroom.

Note!

DIY watch photo

Note!