DIY acoustic guitar stand. DIY guitar stand made of wood. Step-by-step instructions for making a stand

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In this article, Johnny Brooke, author of the YouTube channel "Crafted Workshop" will show you how to make a portable guitar stand. It is perfect for both acoustic and electric guitars. The banjo and other stringed instruments of a similar shape will fit perfectly on it. If readers want to reduce this simple design in size, then it will also work for a small ukulele.

Materials.
- Boards 18 mm thick, 600x350 mm
- Two-component epoxy resin
- Aerosol contact adhesive
- Furniture hinge
- Self-tapping screws
- Impregnation for wood
- Felt strips based on - self-adhesive
- Leather cord.

Tools used by the author.
- A circular saw
- Band-saw
- Screwdriver
- CNC machine (optional)
- Milling machine
- Manual frezer
- Gas-burner
- Reismus
- Brush - sponge.

On his web page, Johnny offers you template drawings, .

Manufacturing process.
He intends to cut two halves of the structure from improvised lumber. To do this, he will need boards about 60 cm long and 30 wide.

Having previously printed the template on paper, the author lays them out on the board, briefly marking the sides with chalk.

And then, to give the product some charm, with the help of CNC cuts out the title of the song "We are the music makers and we are the dreamers of dreams". Creative people will find something to write on their own. But this step is completely optional. It is possible without the inscription at all.

Now you have to cut one of the two halves of the stand. To do this, using an aerosol contact adhesive, the author attaches the template to the surface of the wood. And here is an important point that the master explains: if you spray contact glue on both surfaces - on wood and a template - and let them dry for several minutes, then it will be much easier to remove paper from the surface than if you connect both surfaces to wet glue applied only to workpiece.

The author used a band saw to cut out the outline of the stand, but an electric jigsaw will also do the job. And the trick here is to feed the material slowly and follow the contour line.

In one area where the line curve was too sharp and therefore hard to reach for the saw, the author had to drill a 45 mm hole with a Forstner bit. This hole will allow the router to go into this sharp corner when processing edges. But, if you do not have such tools, then you can get by with a simple file and sandpaper to align the shape of the workpieces.

Removes the paper template from the surface of the workpiece, and processes its ends with a belt sander. Johnny uses 220 grit ribbon. This part will serve as a model for copying the second side of the stand. The more accurately it is processed, the easier it will be all subsequent work.

After the first half of the product is ready, Johnny applies it to the second and marks with a pencil. Then he cuts the workpiece on a band saw, leaving a small margin along the contour. Its author will cut it on a milling cutter.

Next, using double-sided tape, Johnny connects the two halves together.

Then I leveled the edges of the second workpiece on a milling machine with a miter cutter with a thrust bearing.

The author recommends that you always pay attention to the direction of the fibers when turning a tree. Otherwise, this might happen.

Now separates the blanks, and removes the adhesive tape.

The master came up with a wonderful idea to fill the carved letters with epoxy resin to give them more expressiveness. This resin is self-leveling, virtually odorless and has excellent penetration into all cavities. It mixes two components using accurate scales, because a lot depends on the quality of the prepared mixture.

The author adds a little black paint to the mixture, mixes thoroughly again.

It fills the letters, and then goes through a gas burner so that all the air bubbles burst. It takes about 20 minutes (in several approaches after 5 minutes). The epoxy mixture then cures for about 36 hours.

The next day, when the resin hardened, the master tried to remove the excess resin with a thicknesser. But this turned out to be not a good idea, as the machine captured too much of the layer, which caused the letters to lose depth. Next time the author intends to carry out this operation with a simple planer.

Next, Johnny screws on a brass loop that connects the two halves of the structure. Brass screws tend to unscrew. To prevent this from happening, the author rubs them with rosin.

Then, in both halves of the rack, symmetrically, he drills holes for a leather cord, which is necessary in order to fix a certain maximum opening width of the delivery. The size of the hole depends on the size of the cord you are going to use.

In the next step, the master rounded off all the ends using a hand router with a radius cutter.

And it goes through the finishing impregnation, which remarkably displays the depth and texture of the wood material. For lubrication, use a soft sponge.
For those who are interested - links in the description under the video on the author's channel.

Every guitar lover sooner or later thinks about where to store a musical instrument? Special floor type holders are sold in specialized stores. However, if there is no desire to spend money, then you may wonder how to make a guitar stand with your own hands. This will be discussed in the article.

Why do you need a guitar stand?

Such a device is ideal for storing a musical instrument. By the way, you can make a design that will accommodate several guitars at once. The work is not so difficult, and if we talk about materials, then you won’t need to buy anything supernatural.

Before making a guitar stand with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of some materials, such as

• Tees - in the amount of 6 pieces. You can take a plastic pipe with appropriate fittings.
• Plastic corner adapters - 8 pieces.
• Pipe segments - 2 pieces (length 40 cm).
• Pipe segments - 2 pieces (length 70 cm).
• Pipe segments - 15 pieces (length 4 cm).
• Plastic plugs - 4 pieces.

Step by step work

To make a DIY guitar stand, follow these steps:

1. Assembly of the holder starts from the top. Tees are connected in the amount of four pieces using three short pieces of pipes. Everything is fixed with glue. Corner adapters are installed from the edges. They are also planted on glue and short pieces of pipe are used.
2. The turn of the legs of the stand has come. Corner adapters are installed on both sides of the tee. Parts are placed at an angle of 90 °. The legs are made in the amount of two pieces.
3. Connection of legs by means of a pipe having a length of 40 cm.
4. Connecting the top and bottom of the rack using a pair of corner adapters and the remaining pipe lengths.
5. The resulting product can be painted in the desired color. It is best to use a spray from a can.
6. The places of contact of the parts of the rack with musical instruments are finished with polyurethane foam or other softening material.

Wooden guitar stand

If you are not satisfied with the plastic version, then a do-it-yourself guitar stand can be made from wooden materials.

For work you will need:

• seven-layer plywood;
• boards and slats;
• thin felt material, foam rubber, carpet trimmings;
• furniture hinge for doors, self-tapping screws, nails;
• wood glue;
• wood stain, furniture varnish.

Sequencing

To create a wooden rack, follow these guidelines:

1. The side supports are cut out of the boards with a jigsaw.
2. The neck stand is made of a rail, and a neck holder is fixed to the end part of this part.
3. The base of the rack is made of plywood (3 layers), they are installed on self-tapping screws for mobility.
4. The front panel is also plywood, it acts as a fixation for the side supports so that they do not spread.
5. Pins are installed at the bottom (you can cut a couple of nails).
6. At the side supports, non-through holes are drilled in front.
7. It remains to cover the guitar stand with stain, and then with furniture varnish.
8. At the final stage, felt-foam "pillows" are made. They are attached where the guitar will come into contact with the details of the structure.
9. The lower part of the support can be provided with pieces of carpet so that it does not scratch the floor.

Some subtleties

Before you make a floor-standing guitar stand with your own hands, you should think about how it should be suitable for any shape of the body of a musical instrument. They are classic or custom-made, and you need to take into account the peculiarity of the form.

You should not make a guitar stand too heavy, for sure it will have to be rearranged from place to place. The most ideal weight is about 5 kg.

The use of expensive materials is not very advisable, because if you have money, you can always go to a specialized store and buy a guitar stand there.

Musical instruments require careful handling. Take, for example, the guitar, which, as a woman, needs not only delicate handling, but also reliable support. Between rehearsals, this instrument feels best when held upright. For this purpose, there are special stands, which, unfortunately, are very rarely found on sale.

Homemade guitar stand

Meanwhile the simplest collapsible homemade guitar stand(Fig. 1), consisting of only two parts, it is easy to build from plywood with a thickness of 10 ... 15 mm.

First, on a sheet of cardboard in cells (50x50 mm), the outline of the rack is drawn (Fig. 2), and then a template is cut out of cardboard. According to the template, the contour of the part is transferred to plywood, and the workpiece is cut with a jigsaw. The edges of the racks are rounded using an electric mill or planer, as well as a rasp and sandpaper.

Both parts of the stand are connected using "sliding grooves". Try to ensure that the spike enters the groove tightly enough, without “chatter”, which is necessary to prevent spontaneous disassembly of the rack. Therefore, I repeat, the cuts in the details are made as accurately as possible. Usually, the grooves are cut out a little narrower than necessary, and the mutual fitting of the parts to each other is carried out during rough assembly, working on the grooves with a file. It is desirable to connect the posts at an angle of 85° (see Fig. 1). After rough assembly, the rack is disassembled and the halves are carefully cleaned with sandpaper. A monophonic study of the texture of wood is produced by covering the details with a stain. After that, a couple of layers of varnish are applied, for example, parquet.

Rollers (Fig. 3) made of sponge rubber or dark polyurethane foam are carefully glued onto the stand supports.

The upper parts of the racks, on which the body (resonator) of the guitar rests, are equipped with rubber support shock absorbers - plugs from penicillin vials (see Fig. 3).

This guitar stand is interesting for its laconic design and ease of assembly. Its cost is low. You don't need fasteners or wood glue to make it. Details of the process, how to make a stand for a guitar with your own hands, further.

materials

Before starting work, check for:

• oak boards (0.25 x 22 x 38 cm);
• drills;
• ring drills;
• jigsaw or saw;
• grinder or sandpaper;
• varnish or stain;
• a sheet of paper;
• pencil
• rulers.

Step 1. Work begins with the manufacture of a template. You can use the given one in your work or change its parameters based on the required height and dimensions of the guitar itself.

Step 2. Print the template on a standard sheet of paper, if you did not change its dimensions, and use a pencil and a ruler to transfer it to the existing piece of board.

Step 3. Drill two holes with a diameter of 25 mm in the places marked on the template.

Step 4. Carefully make grooves from the holes and cut the board along the marked lines into two parts. This work is painstaking and requires you to be extremely careful due to the relatively complex shape of the blanks.

Step 5. Place the two pieces of the stand together. The grooves must enter into each other. Check the stability of the product.

Step 6. If everything is in order and the parts do not need to be adjusted to each other, sand the edges of the cuts. If desired, you can cover the surface of the stand with varnish or stain, or you can leave the product in this form.