How to bend the locking ring out of the profile. Do-it-yourself features and methods for bending profile pipes along the radius. Now let's look at how to bend a pipe with a pipe bender

Almost every owner has a situation when it is necessary to change the bend of a metal rod to install a greenhouse or sewer wiring. So how to bend profile pipe at home is quite easy with your own hands, then this work does not require the involvement of specialists.

The average homeowner rarely has special equipment available. Therefore, you need to know how to properly bend an aluminum or steel pipe for a greenhouse, a visor (canopy) and other needs without a pipe bender.

Photo - bending pipes without a pipe bender

It is very convenient to carry out this work with the help of a welding inverter and a household grinder. To begin with, a drawing is being developed, according to which the required angle will be drawn and calculated in the future. In the scheme, the rounding must be accurately measured.

Step-by-step instructions from an expert on how to bend pipes with a vise, grinder and welding machine:

  1. If it is planned to bend the professional pipe in a semicircle, then at the site of the intended bend, several thin cuts are made with the help of a grinder;
  2. You can do the work yourself only if you first fix the reinforcement in a clamping vise. When the cuts are made and cleared of chips, you need to carefully begin to bend the pipe;
  3. After the ring has closed, you need to weld the holes that were formed as a result of bending with a welding machine. Some craftsmen use simple soldering irons if the communication has a small diameter;
  4. In order for the bend to be neat, it will need to be further sanded and coated with a protective agent - this will help prevent corrosion or premature destruction of the connection.

It is possible to bend the pipe evenly by means of a spring, which fits the size of the profile section:

  1. Communication is fixed in a vice;
  2. A spring of the appropriate diameter is inserted into the hole. This will prevent the profile pipe from breaking or taking an irregular shape when bending;
  3. To facilitate the work, you need to heat the junction and carefully manually bend the communication to the desired diameter;
  4. Various metal products suitable for the slope, for example, angle grinders, arches, etc., are very helpful here.

Similarly, you can try to deform communication with the help of sand. How to bend a pipe for a canopy without the use of a vice and springs:

  1. It is necessary to stop one end of the tube by closing it with a wooden wedge or any other plug;
  2. The closed end of the pipe is fixed in the ground or in a vice (if possible). You can also use any other device that allows you to establish communication;
  3. After that, you need to pour sand into the open end and heat up the blowtorch;
  4. With a heated lamp, you need to hold it at the place of the future bend, and then gently bend the pipe into desired shape. It is necessary to work rather quickly, because the metal, after it cools down, will be unsuitable for processing.

Video tutorial on how to bend a 20 mm pipe without a pipe bender using sand

After bending, it is required to leave the pipe for some time in a fixed position - this will help the material to fix its new shape. If work is carried out in winter time, then the masters expose them even in the cold.

Arch (canopy) without pipe bender

As you know, for a canopy, for example, in the form of an arch, a curved profile pipe is needed. It is important to make sure that the arcs are equally curved, otherwise the canopy will not work. Now we will look at how to do this without using a machine, pipe bender and other auxiliary tools of this kind.

We will need:

  • The support on which we will work, for example, metal table;
  • As a beam, you can take a pipe 80 by 60 or 50 by 50 mm 3 meters long. But this method is universal - so what kind of support beam you end up with is not important;
  • A profile pipe 20 by 20 or 20 by 40 mm, which we will bend.

Procedure (step by step instructions):

  1. We divide the support into 6 equal parts. It is very important here - exactly into 6 parts, no matter how long it is;
  2. On the dividing lines, it is necessary to weld the racks strictly at 90 degrees to the beam. The middle stand is 250 mm, the closest to the middle stand is 250 mm * 0.8888 = 222.22 mm, and the extreme (smallest stand) is 250 mm * 0.5556 = 138.9 mm;

    Photo: welded racks to the beam

  3. We fix the beam itself to a metal table;
  4. We take the pipe that we will bend, put it on the racks and move it relative to the beam with an allowance of 10-15 cm, so that there is a lever for which we could take it and bend it around the racks;,
  5. We tie it to the beam with a rope (fix it);

  6. Next, carefully bend the pipe around the racks and weld it to the ends of the beam with a welding machine.

  7. Then you make the required number of such structures (arcs), use polycarbonate sheets and your arched canopy is ready!

Important note from an expert:
In the length of the racks lies the whole secret of bending the professional pipes with an arch for your canopy. The lengths of the two racks are formed from the length of the middle rack (we have 250 mm - you can take a different length, but not more than 250 mm - otherwise the pipe may break when bent). The coefficients 0.8888 and 0.5556 are valid for any length of the support and the central post.

Video instruction on how to bend professional pipes for a canopy (arch) without a pipe bender

Now let's look at how to bend a pipe with a pipe bender

There are two types of pipes:

  1. Profile;
  2. Round section.

Depending on the needs, you need to choose a specific option, but you should remember that working with fittings round section Much easier than square ones. The fact is that when bending, the corners can bend or flatten, moreover, there is a high probability of cracks.



Photo - Greenhouse from profile pipes

To bend a profile pipe at home, you need to work with a special device - or a profile bender. Their feature is the ability to install communication in the device and fix it in a certain position. Due to the pressure, which is applied equally to both external and internal corners, an even bend is formed without sharp drops and cracks.



Photo - mechanical profile bender

Exists two types of roll forming equipment:

  1. manual;
  2. Professional automatic.

The first are a fairly simple device, which consists of a work surface (table) and a number of rollers. Due to the movement of the rollers, the pipe moves along the working table and changes its angle, without distorting the desired semicircle.

Professional devices are more convenient to use, but their cost often exceeds 20,000 rubles. They are used for complex work, most often required for the production of complex decorative metal elements. The advantages of the model include the ideal radius, which will be accurate literally to a tenth. Of course, when using a machine it is more convenient to work, but at home it is practically not needed, because it is designed to process a large number of pipes per shift.



Photo - manual pipe bender

The task of how to bend a profile pipe very often confronts home craftsmen. Structures from profile pipes are multifunctional and convenient. They are used to create greenhouses and sheds, fences and supports for plants, shelving and other things. The result is a very durable, stable and relatively inexpensive design. At first glance, the task of bending a profile pipe without a pipe bender seems unsolvable. However, if you know some of the subtleties of the upcoming business, it is not so difficult to give the profile pipe an arched shape on your own, at home.

Task: to bend a profile pipe without a pipe bender - solvable!

Before bending a profile pipe at home, you need to clearly understand what lies at the heart of bending. Regardless of the shape of the profile pipe, we have to give it a bend of a given radius. The result is achieved either by purely mechanical action, or by using additional heating of the profile. In this case, two different forces act on the pipe at one moment:

  • From the side of the profile into which it folds, the compression force works.
  • Tensile force acts on the outer surface of the workpiece.

It is precisely because of the multidirectionality of the acting forces that it is not so easy to bend a profile pipe at home. A fragment of the workpiece may lose alignment, resulting in a multi-level arrangement of pipe segments. The outer surface on the bend can burst from the loads. WITH inside a profile pipe can be assembled in folds by compression, making the surface look like a corrugation. In addition to not aesthetic appearance, such an outcome makes the profile fragile.

Possible pipe deformation

If you do not observe the technological nuances, it will not work to give the profile pipe a curvilinear shape at home without marriage. You can spoil a bunch of blanks without achieving the desired result. So it is imperative to take into account the physico-chemical parameters of the material from which the pipe is made, the dimensions of the section of the workpiece and the thickness of its walls, the radius of the intended bend, ideally, it must be carried out. Knowing all these parameters makes it possible to bend a profile pipe without damaging the workpieces.

Features of different types of profile

Profile pipes are produced with a wide variety of cross-sections: in the form of a circle, square, rectangle, oval. At home, craftsmen prefer to use square and rectangular metal products. This choice is explained simply: the outer coating is easier and more securely attached to pipes of this type.

At home, craftsmen prefer square and rectangular rolled metal

To determine the allowable bending radius of a square or rectangular profile, you need to know its height and follow these rules.

  • With a profile height of less than or equal to 20 mm, the pipe without marriage can be bent in segments that are longer than the indicator equal to 2.5 times h, where the letter h denotes the height of the pipe section.
  • Rolled metal with a profile of greater height is allowed to be bent in sections calculated using the formula 3.5 * h. With a shorter length, the workpiece with big share probabilities will be spoiled.

Before bending a profile pipe at home, also pay attention to the thickness of its walls. If they are thinner than 2 mm, it is better to refuse bending: a high-quality bend will not work. When using such rolled metal to create pipe structures, it is better to connect them by welding.

The bending of a profile pipe made of low-alloy or carbon steel has its own characteristics. Such blanks, after bending, spring back, returning to their original form. So the master will need to re-fit the template. In some cases, secondary bending can be avoided by initially setting the bend radius larger than required. Then springing will lead the pipe to the planned result at the end of the process.

The degree of springback is characterized by a plastic moment of resistance, denoted by Wp. Its parameters are necessarily available in the documentation for rolled metal products. The lower Wp, the less the workpiece will spring during bending.

Rolled metal bending methods

It is possible to bend a profile pipe both in a cold way and with the help of heating. Heating is carried out by a gas burner; at the same time, the plasticity of the material increases markedly, and achieving bending will take less effort. However, workpieces of small cross section have sufficient plasticity even without heating, so that a burner can be dispensed with.

Clear rules regarding the use of heating are developed exclusively for pipes with a circular cross section. It is considered mandatory when bending workpieces whose diameter is more than 10 cm. When working with square or rectangular shaped pipes, you have to rely either on your own experience or on the recommendations of other craftsmen. As a first approximation, you can focus on the following tips:

  • With a profile height of less than 10 mm, heating can definitely be dispensed with.
  • If the height of the pipe section is more than 40 mm, it must be heated before bending it.

With intermediate values ​​​​of this indicator, the bending method is left to the discretion of the master. To decide on the method of bending a profile without a pipe bender, you can carry out a simple check. One end of the workpiece is clamped in a vise. A piece of pipe with a larger diameter of the internal section is put on the free end. Hand pressure is applied to the resulting lever. If the rolled metal can be bent, then further bending according to the desired pattern can be carried out in a cold way.

Cold bending

Without heating

A small profile pipe without a pipe bender is actually bent by hand, using simple devices.

  • To bend the workpiece under a not very significant radius, securely fixed plates equipped with stops, roller fixtures, and a vice are used.
  • If you want to get a bend of a significant radius, you will need fixtures in the form of fixed mandrels or plates of a plane-parallel type with a mounting clamp.

To obtain a smooth bend, pipes with a profile height of more than 10 mm are recommended to be filled with filler. As it is usually used medium-grained sand or rosin. Alternative method bend the workpiece without heating and a pipe bender - instead of a filler, use a spring with a tight winding. This method is especially good in cases where the walls of rolled metal are too thin. The spring is selected in such a way that it freely enters the profile pipe, but at the same time fills it tightly enough. To facilitate the extraction of the "filler" after bending, a wire is securely attached to the end of the spring.

Bending process

With some locksmith skills, a spring of a given size can be made independently, from steel wire 2 mm thick.

Hot bending

If you decide to bend the pipe using heating, it must be filled with filler. Because you have to deal with high temperatures, the obligatory set of "equipment" includes protective tarpaulin gloves.

Hot bending

The order of execution of work is observed as follows.

  • Two plugs are made, for which they are used wooden bars. The base of the “plug” is twice the area of ​​the pipe section, and its length is chosen ten times greater than the calculated width.
  • One of the plugs, already fitted to the section of the bent element, is provided with longitudinal grooves in the amount of 4 pieces. They are needed to remove vapors that will be released during the heating of the filler and accumulate inside the pipe. If the gas is not allowed to escape, the plug will be knocked out, and the workpiece will be damaged when bent.
  • The section of the workpiece to be bent is annealed before processing.
  • The easiest, most affordable and cheapest way is to use sand of medium fraction as a filler. Ideally, a cleaned building one, but you can take even the most common one used in children's sandboxes. Only it will have to be subjected to additional processing. First, the sand is sifted to eliminate foreign inclusions. At the first stage, a sieve with cells no larger than 2.5 mm is used, at the last - with a cell of 0.7 mm. This step will ensure that dust impurities are removed. Sand throughout the volume is calcined (processing temperature - 150 Celsius). Calcination is a mandatory step: without it, the sand remains too wet, and the steam pressure inside the bent fragment during the operation of the gas burner can be so great that the profile pipe will simply break.
  • One of the ends of the profile pipe to be bent is clogged with a plug without gas outlet channels.
  • A funnel is installed in the second hole left open, through which sand is poured. Filling should go in portions so that the bulk substance fills the cavity as evenly as possible and as densely as possible. After the introduction of the next portion, the pipe should be tapped with a mallet - rubber or wooden. Insufficiently dense packing leads to wrinkling of the lower surface of the pipe or rupture of the upper one.
  • When the workpiece is filled to the top with filler, the open hole is closed with a second plug.
  • The place of the bend is marked with chalk.
  • The element to be bent is fixed with a vise with a template. You can also use a pipe clamp. If there is a weld on the pipe, the workpiece is fastened so that it is on the side (not on top or bottom). This rule must be observed: it is strongly not recommended to expose welds under tension or compression.
  • A fragment of a pipe marked with chalk is red-hot with a gas burner.
  • Having achieved the desired degree of heating, the pipe is bent in a smooth movement, without sharpness, in maximum accordance with the template. This must be done in one motion, the efforts during bending with the hands are applied strictly in a certain plane, either horizontal or vertical. Otherwise, the alignment will be broken. For bending, a piece of pipe with a larger cross section is put on the free end of the workpiece. It should be free to find on the element being processed, but it should “sit” tightly on it.
  • When the pipe cools down, the bend is compared to the template. If it matches the idea, you can remove the plugs and get rid of the sand. If there are serious deviations from the pattern, the procedure must be repeated. It is still desirable to cope with the task on the first, maximum on the second attempt. Otherwise, the workpiece will be hopelessly damaged.

In the process of bending the pipe, you need to monitor the degree of its heating. Excessive overheating is unacceptable; if nevertheless this happened, you need to cool the workpiece a little naturally.

When the bending is completed, the plugs are knocked out. If they sit too tight, the plugs are burned out with a gas burner.

The hot method of bending a profile pipe is quite suitable for implementation at home. However, it is better to use it in cases where the element needs to be given a single bend. Repeated heating of the pipe entails a loss of metal strength.

Pipe bending with a grinder and a welding machine

Cutting method

You can also give the profile pipe the necessary curvilinear shape with your own hands with the participation of a grinder, accompanied by a welding machine. To do this, in the intended area, cuts are made across the element, not reaching the end. Then the pipe is bent under the desired radius, and the cuts are welded. The final product will retain a sufficiently aesthetic appearance (it will be enough to carefully grind the welds for this) without loss of strength indicators. The only limitation is outer skin should not be too heavy. For the equipment of the same greenhouses or canopies with an awning, this method of obtaining a bend can be an ideal choice. The advantage of the technique is that the profile can be bent to any degree of curvature, which other methods usually do not allow.

How to bend a profile with your hands

Finally, we note: bending the profile with your hands, in the absence of a pipe bender, is washed away only if it is planned to bend a small number of elements. When there are many workpieces to be processed, it is still better to invest a little and buy the appropriate device: it will significantly reduce the time and effort of the master. In the same way, if you need only one element with a bend, it makes sense to think about buying it - it will not introduce you to a special expense, but it will save you a lot of trouble.

Watch a video on this topic:

One of the most popular types of building metal is a profile, which is an oval, square or rectangular tube. Rectangular and square steel pipes. They are used in private housing construction (for the construction of fences, greenhouses, various gazebos and awnings).

The only drawback is the more complicated process of bending them and giving them the desired shape. Let's consider in more detail how to independently bend a profile pipe.

Bending by hand

Let's talk about how you can bend pipes manually.

Hot bending method

The most simple manually is "hot bending". This method allows you to get fairly smooth lines and the desired shape without significant changes in the geometry of the profile. To prevent flattening during bending, the pipe is stuffed with dried quartz sand. To do this, a wooden plug-wedge is hammered into one end, and after filling it with dried sand, the other end is also plugged with a similar plug. A small hole is drilled at one end of the pipe so that air can escape freely. Next, the required area is locally heated by gas welding and given the desired shape. As a substitute for gas welding for heating, you can use a blowtorch or a gas burner.

The pipe should not be overheated, as this will inevitably lead to the appearance of scale and a decrease in the quality of the metal. Repeated heating also degrades the quality of the metal, so try to bend the metal the first time.

After obtaining the required shape, remove the plugs and pour out the sand (if necessary, it can be reused). Plugs are easiest to remove by heating the ends of the pipe with a torch. As it burns, the wedges easily fall out.

The use of sand for stuffing avoids cracks and incorrect deformation. With a certain skill, you can bend the profile quickly enough, so you should not even try to do this without sanding - you will simply ruin the material.

It should be remembered that galvanized pipes cannot be bent in this way, because. during heating, the zinc layer will burn out and cease to fulfill its anti-corrosion function.

Bending method using welding

An alternative way to self-manual bending at home is to use welding and a grinder. In this case, the work is done as follows:

  • First you need to calculate the required radius of curvature.
  • Further, to facilitate the process, using a grinder along the entire length of the bend, uniform transverse cuts are made on three sides of the profile (on the outside of the planned bend).
  • At the next step, the profile pipe is given the required shape, the cuts are welded and the welds are ground.

Bending with pipe benders

A pipe bender is a fixture or machine designed to change the shape of a pipe. The equipment allows bending in accordance with the required shape and size. Its correct use allows you to maintain the strength characteristics of the material, while avoiding flattening and creases.

Depending on the type of drive, pipe benders are:

  • Manual.
  • Electromechanical.
  • Hydraulic.

Main advantage hand tool is simplicity and relative cheapness. But working with them requires significant physical effort, so using them for large amounts of work is quite tiring.

Hydraulic and electromechanical equipment does not require significant effort during operation, which allows you to bend pipes quickly and accurately.

Choosing the optimal bending method

If the amount of work is one-time and small, then the use of “hot bending” or manual machine. Alternatively, you can not purchase a manual pipe bender for one-time work, but rent it.

If you constantly need to bend profile pipes, then it makes sense to purchase equipment or make it yourself.

You can also find a company that has specialized equipment - profile bending machines, which allow you to quickly and efficiently perform any amount of work and give pipes a complex and intricate shape. If the price of services suits you, then this option is most preferable for a large amount of work.

By choosing the best method and doing the job carefully, you will get more attractive and easy-to-use pipes (compared to round ones), which will be widely used in the process of landscaping your home.

Video

We bring to your attention a plot that shows the work of a homemade pipe bender.

The design of the greenhouse must necessarily have not only an aesthetic appearance, but also be functional. A greenhouse, which was built with one's own hands or was bought ready-made, should generate income, regardless of the time of year. If you have a thought on your own, then the question may arise about how to bend a profile for a greenhouse with your own hands without using any special devices.

The frame for the greenhouse can be bought or made by hand. In order to bend the frame, you will need special. fixtures - pipe bender or machine.

Eg, winter greenhouse arch type, which has heating, turns the need to bend the profile for this design into an urgent need.

The frame made of aluminum profiles is durable, lightweight, requires minimal maintenance, in addition, it can be easily fixed with your own hands.

Greenhouses in which profile designs are used

Greenhouse frame aluminum profile with a multi-pitched roof is a strong, reliable, lightweight construction.

Elements that are made from profiles are used in many types. The multi-pitched roof of the 8-coal greenhouse has a solid structure. The material for the frame in this case will be an aluminum profile.

The profile can be forged, molded, rolled. It curls up into coils. The aluminum profile has the ability to process mechanically: twist, drill, cut. Structures from this type of profile can be connected with synthetic resins or fastened with rivets, bolts.

The profile can be shaped, complete, intended for the manufacture of greenhouses, racks, racks. The shaped profile has the ability to bend, drill, cut, so that it can be used in the manufacture of the structure.

The aluminum profile frame is light, durable, requires minimal maintenance, and can be reinforced with your own hands.

The greenhouse has a long period of operation (20-25 years). A significant drawback of the greenhouse is that it will be too expensive to build with your own hands.

It occupies a leading position in the market. Products from it are durable, convenient, cheap.

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Greenhouses that use a curved profile

When building an arched greenhouse, the profile must be bent.

The profile will need to be bent during the multifunctional construction process. It will be necessary to bend the profile for an arch that extends vertically upwards from the base and is bent in the middle. In a frame is used, the strength of which can be ensured by the connection of racks and beams. The domed greenhouse has a polygonal frame construction (metal or aluminum) and is difficult to assemble by hand. All frame material must be selected based on, as well as its dimensions.

When building arched greenhouses, it is necessary to prepare 12 flexible rods for semi-arcs. Their length should be 1.5 m. For a high greenhouse (1.8 m high), you will need to prepare 10 rods that have a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 2.9 m.

The creation of the frame begins with the definition of holes for flexible rods. They are drilled, after which the support racks are prepared. When installing the main frame with your own hands, it may be necessary to carefully bend the metal rods in an arc.

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How can I bend a square tube for a polycarbonate greenhouse arc?

In order to bend the pipe, you can use a homemade pipe bender.

With polycarbonate, there is a need to bend a square pipe with an arc, which has a cross section of 20x20 mm. The diameter between their ends is 3 m.

Tools will need to be prepared in advance:

  • ruler;
  • bending machine;
  • pipes for bending (profile);
  • Bulgarian;
  • pencil;
  • welding.

The pipe can be bent on a bending machine, which is made by hand. The machine is scrolled by the handle, but the work requires more effort if its wall is 1-2 mm. Without using a machine, you can bend by hand using parallel pipes, and you will need to first fasten them together. An arc of the corresponding radius is drawn on the ground. A curved product should be attached to it, bent so that the original fully complies with the drawn drawing. The second arc bends similarly to the first.

The pipe is pre-divided into several equal intervals, filed with a grinder and then bent according to the existing template. Places of cuts are processed by spot welding.

The profile is light and durable, it connects well with absolutely any plane, withstands large transverse loads.

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Profile bending with a machine

The service life of a greenhouse from a profile can reach 20-25 years. Therefore, you should take care of the quality assembly of the frame.

The developer who bends the profile knows that this operation is quite complicated. It can be made using a factory-made pipe bending machine or made by hand. One possible method for profile bending is to use a fire source - a propane torch, an acetylene torch, or a blowtorch. One part warms up, after which the lever bends at an angle. Disadvantages of this type of work: great physical effort is required, resulting in an unaesthetic appearance after processing the product.

The profile bending operation on the pipe bending machine is more accurate and faster. The profile, with the help of a handle, is pulled along the pipe bender rollers, while the other roller presses on the pipe and deforms it. The pipe bender passes the pipe through itself and makes an arch of the required radius from it. Bending is performed at an angle of 30-180° (on pipe benders with a hydraulic drive). On a manual pipe bender, pipes can be bent to carry out in winter period time or for installation of ventilation devices.

Tools you will need to make a pipe bender:

  • lead screw;
  • 3 rollers;
  • blank;
  • bracket with clamping axle;
  • sample;
  • channel;
  • steel pipes having a diameter of 70-150 mm;
  • welding;
  • concrete mortar;
  • metal table.

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The process of making a homemade pipe bender

A homemade pipe bender can be made from two pipes and two rollers.

A homemade pipe bender is made from 2 pipes. Their diameter can be from 70 to 150 mm. With the help of concrete mortar, they must be fixed in the slab. They can also be fixed by welding to the channel. Pipes are located at a distance of 600 mm from each other. A pipe is installed between the racks, after which it is bent with force at an angle.

The rollers are placed on axles. They need to be placed on the same level, while the distance between them should be approximately 50 cm. The third roller is located in the center. It must be raised to a level of 100 mm. The jack should raise the roller and adjust the bend radius of the pipe. A homemade pipe bender will bend a rolling profile for the manufacture of a greenhouse or greenhouse structure. A pipe with a thin wall will need to be covered with sand from one end, and then inserted into a pipe bender. After processing, the sand should be removed. The entire length should be the same diameter of the product.

The profile pipe has a different section: oval, round or rectangular. The pipe bender is different from a similar machine for ordinary pipes. The product and the rollers have the same cross section.

During production, the roller is mounted on a metal table. A bracket is attached to the axis, which has a clamping axis. A roller should be installed on the axis, which copies the pipe profile. The workpiece must be fed by hand. When passing, the product will be pressed against the roller. It is pulled several times between the rollers, as a result of which the necessary bend is formed. The finished material is attached to the template.

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